for the record, head gasket (or other head problems) failure is EXTREMELY rare on lh sedan v/6 engines(ask any chrysler service tech). the only significant problems encountered on the early intrepids were some early water pump failures on the old cast iron 3.5l.
If you have not already purchased an Intrepid I have a 1994, 4 door SE that I will sell you. In turn, you can look forward to shelling out at least $300 for repairs every time you go to simply "have the oil changed", fixing your air conditioner every year, replacing your rotors every 2 years, and wondering when it's gonna be that this car will probably end up killing you and/or your family. Take a look at(nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems), if you dont believe me, to see snippets of examples of technical bulletins that Chrysler THEMSELVES issued. (It'll have to be on your day off because there are something like 868 complaints and it'll take you a while) A word to the wise? Do your homework! I am presently on this site trying to figure out if I'm over-reacting here or if there is any way I can get my air conditioner fixed "free of charge".............again
Maybe the 2000 is a better car, maybe I was lucky and got a good 98 Model. According to the facts at NHSTA a good 98 Intrepid might be hard to find. The 98 has the distinction thus far of having 110 tsb's, and 77 consumer complaints. The 00 26 and 19. I was either lucky with the 98 or just unluckly to get one of the 00 lemons. From what I have been told by an independant mechanic the lemon crop from dc was quite visible in 00. Fifty more weeks and I will be able to say bye bye to the Intrepid, that is if it lasts that long.
Good luck trying to sell your Intrepid. Consumer reports list the Intrepid from 93-98 as used cars to avoid. The Intrepid doesn't do well at all with frequency of repairs. It lists more than average repairs in the following trouble spots.Engine, cooling, fuel, ignition, transmission, electical, a/c, suspension, brakes, paint, integrity, and hardware. Even the 99 model (test done on vehicles with at least 3000k a six months old) had more than average problems with the electrical, integrity, and hardware. Engine trouble spots in the 93-98 included pistons, rings, valves, blocks, heads, bearing, camshafts, gaskets, cam belts/chains, acc belts, oil pumps. CR states on the newer models, the components included in integrity and hardware should be carefully checked before you buy. Integrity includes seals, weather stripping, air and water leaks, wind noise, rattles and squeaks. Hardware includes window door and seat meahanisms, locks, safety belts, sunroof, glass. Again good luck selling your Intrepid, I remember an old saying that goes something like, there's a sucker born every minute. I guess I have been one of those suckers twice, but never again.
Well I just visited NHSTA site and yes the 2000 Intrepid does have 19 complaints but a 2000 Ford Taurus has 53 and a 2000 Honda Accord has 59 . 19 vs 53 less than half of the Ford . Does not matter what you buy you will always disappoint someone, and make another happy!!
You seem to know how to bring tears to my eyes. Was wondering if you or anyone else has had trouble with the timing belt tensioner and belt idler pulley on their Intrepids. Mine is a 1994. I have no idea what these parts are but I do know how much they cost to be repaired. My car also does not like to shift out of 2cd or 3rd gear sometimes if it is not warmed up long enough and my air conditioning system keeps "mysteriously" coming up empty every year although a private mechanic who fixed it one time told me that he could not find a leak- even after putting dye thru the system. I've found that there is a hidden warrantee on the air conditioner evaporators for some Chrystler models (Intrepids being one) and was wondering if the evaporator could be a problem in this case. I am clueless about all this mechanical mumbo-jumbo....
In response to esj1 regarding broken dipstick, same thing happened to me. Dipstick broke off in mechanics hand, was able to get it out and gave me a new one. Said the exact thing: this happens a lot in Intrepids.
I have a 95 intrepid. I've only had the car for 6 months, and already regret it. I have heard many stories of brake and rotor problems. Recently, I was given an estimate of $647 to replace the brakes, pads, rotors, and calipers, plus a few other items, I'm not sure what they even are! The one thing I'm concerned about is the replacement of the calipers. I've been told the only reason it needs repaired is if the car was in an accident....Don't know anything about the car's history. Any one else have this problem? Why is the price so high?
ac evaporators have an extended warranty for 7 years on 94 Intrepids ,and yes going broke this could be the area it is leaking from, I had mine replaced on my 94 free of charge!!I have only had ac problems with my 94 ,no trans or engine problems . Love the car ,just keep having the ac loose refrigerant .
The last time I had to have brake rotors replaced was about 3 1/2 years ago on a 1979 Newport, and they were about $100 a pop. They were just typical, heavy, bulky 70's rotors. I'm sure the modern ones on the Intrepid are lighter, more high-tech, more expensive (easier to warp,etc). By the time you throw in new calipers, brake pads, etc, I guess $647 isn't that bad.
Right now I have a 2000 Intrepid base model with about 25,500 miles on it. I deliver pizzas with it, so this car isn't exactly babied. I haven't had any serious problems yet. Sometimes the tranny will refuse to engage reverse until I shift through the gears a couple times. Naturally, the dealer can't find any problems.
Actually, the dealer has been my biggest problem. They want to do a "30,000 mile checkup" on it. They want to change the spark plugs, do the transmission, change the coolant, and, get this...lube the chassis! All this for something like $300+! Now the coolant should be good for 100K miles, and so should the spark plugs. And according to "schedule B", the severe duty one, the tranny should be done around 50K miles.
This same dealer has now had my uncle's 1997 Chevy pickup for about 2 1/2 weeks for tranny problems. So much for the convenience of newer cars!
I'm taking it instead to a local garage whom I trust. They're going to look it over and do what it needs. They did say the tranny would most likely need to be serviced at 30K miles...that the 50K or 100K intervals are bs. The reason manufacturers say that they can go that long is because people have been neglecting the transmission for years, so they just gave up on trying to get people to have them serviced every 15K miles like in the old days.
I'm also going to need new brakes soon, although new brakes at 30K miles is actually pretty good for me. I go through police-spec brakes on an '89 Gran Fury about every 25K miles. And I have a '68 Dart with 10" manual drums all the way around that eats 'em about every 15K miles.
So I don't know...maybe I'm just lucky and happened to get a good Intrepid. But I'm happy with it so far (knock on wood) We'll see how long it lasts at the rate of 30K miles a year. I'm guessing it'll be trouble-free right up until the 100K extended warranty gives out ;-)
I've tested, first-hand the front bumper on my 2000 Intrepid. One night in the rain I skidded into a Pontiac Grand Am. It was a low-speed impact, not enough to set off the air bag. It bent up the license plate and put a vertical crease in the upper and lower parts of the grille opening. I just left it alone though, because I was in the process of changing insurance companies and didn't want any problems. The guy I hit was driving a rental car, so he said he didn't care.
As far as the older generation Intrepid goes, other motorists should FEAR that front bumper! I saw a first-generation Intrepid that hadrear-ended a late 80's Grand Marquis. The GM's frame bent right over the rear axle and the whole rear-end crumpled down, disabling the car. The Intrepid got a big dent in the hood between the headlights...that's it! In fact, about 5 mins later, I saw that 'trep in my rearview mirror, so it was evidently running fine. It's almost unheard of, in a rear-ender, for the car in back to come out almost unscathed like that. What's even more amazing here is that a GM is a lot bigger than an Intrepid, so I would think that the Intrepid would get the worst of it.
I agree with the back bumpers on the Intrepid though. The first time I had the car up on jacks looking under there, I was thinking that whoever designed the rear bumper oughtta be shot. Or forced to drive a 2000 Intrepid in a society where everybody else drives a Peterbilt ;-) For one thing, it doesn't look like there's anything back there designed to give and bounce back...no shock absorbers or anything. And the trunk lid is too close to the rear of the car. Sure it looks nice to have a bumper integrated into the car like that, but with no crush space, the trunk area is going to get compromised too easily in a rear-ender.
Oh, and here's the ultimate embarrassment...I backed into a snow embankment one day...you can still see the crease in my rear bumper.
Ain't it the truth! Yesterday, I saw a 1992 Ford Crown Vic taxi sitting in the opposite lane with its flashers on. I didn't know why, until I got a little closer, and saw the remains of a fairly new Ford Ranger that had rear-ended it. Not a bit of damage to the Crown Vic, but the Ranger's chrome bumper was pushed in so far is was almost inverted! Just about everything plastic on the front was broken, and there was a big puddle of antifreeze underneath. I thought this was interesting, considering what I saw an intrepid do to a Grand Marquis (although it was the previous generation "flying brick" GM).
Thanks guys, for the TSB bulletins on my tranny shifting problem. I'm going to have the dealer look at it while they're "greasing my suspension" LOL!
Here is the saga of the a/c in my 94 Intrepid. I purchased the car 2 years ago during May. The a/c worked fine that season. The following spring, the a/c never worked from the first time that I tried to use it. The air was blowing fine but it just wasn't COLD. I brought the car to a private mechanic who informed me that the system was empty although the dye flush he did turned up no leaks. $100 later my system was re-filled and the a/c was working fine. This year, again, the a/c did not work from the first time I tried using it. I decided to just "sweat it out" - literally- rather than cough up $100 again for 3 months worth of hot weather. SO MY QUESTION IS....do these symptoms sound like an evaporator problem? A friend has told me that it sounds like a bad evaporator could be the source of my troubles. Frankly- bringing my car into the dealer when I'm working full-time is a pain so I'de like to hear several opinions. Anybody....???? Chrysler has extended the warrantee on my model Intrepid for the a/c (evaporator ONLY) for 7 years or 100,000mi so I basically have until January to address this problem if I want it fixed for free. I have resigned to the fact that I will probably be selling this car and would like it to have fuctional a/c.
I have a 94 Intrepid ,and had a guy in a chevy cavalier run into the back of me at a red light. I only had a couple of paint chips ,and no other damage .He had big damage ,rad was damaged and leaking ,front fascia smashed into little shreds. Guess it all depends on what hits you.
I had my evaporator changed in my Intrepid ,they also refilled it and added the die and it did not cost me one cent! If they change the evap. they must fill it up as part of the warranty provision, thats like saying we changed your engine but now you have to pay for the oil .
Our intrepid combatants have started feuding in public again. By mutual agreement, whenever they can't keep a civil tongue, their posts get deleted. Again, I'm sorry that it causes confusion for the other participants.
My 99 Intrepid with only 16,000 miles is getting a brand new transmission put in next week! Talk about frustrating! I have gone into many car sites and it seems that this is a prevalent problem. Prior to this I had a 94 Intrepid and had no problems for 4 1/2 years before trading in for this one. I was much happier with the 94 Intrepid. It was a lot more powerful too with the 3.3 engine , as opposed to the 2.7 liter engine in the 99's. They screwed up a good thing!
i have had a 96, 98 and currently own a 00 intrepid and none of them have needed any transmission work whatsoever. and...my chrysler service tech buddy says that the 42le tranny is now very reliable. they had some problems through about 95 or 96 but better seals and electronics have eliminated most failures since then...
Knowing that your the only one with transmission problems makes you feel alot better right? Maybe I'm the only one having head gasket problems but the problems with my decrepit Intrepid seem to be of more concern to me than the thought that all the others are perfect.
This topic is for discussing problems with the Dodge Intrepid. This is the Maintenance and Repair Conference. We have lots of topics discussing problems with lots of vehicles.
This does not mean that every vehicle made under any given category has problems.
However, our members are free to discuss any maintenance or repair issues they have with vehicles they own in this conference.
With any given production line, there will be those who have no problems and love their vehicles and there will be those who have problems and wish they had bought something different. That is just how things work in the automotive world.
There is no need for sarcasm or backbiting here.
So quit. :-)
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
It is too bad that this topic hasn't been a help topic rather than a push-an-agenda topic. On the one hand it appears we have those who feel Chrysler has made some great strides in quality and reliability. Then there are those who proclaim nothing has changed, despite all the "data" saying otherwise. All I know for sure is that my 95 Intrepid has been a great car. I use it to drive back and forth to work every day (a 100 mile roundtrip) and it has never let me down. Currently, the car has nearly 140k miles. In that amount of miles I have had to have the front tie-rods replaced, the brake pads replaced, the timing belt replaced (according to the owner's manual) and there was some sort of recall on the fuel injection. That's it. I have thoroughly enjoyed this car so much that I'm likely to buy another sometime next year. And from what I've been reading at MSN carpoint, JD Power, and Consumer Reports it appears the Intrepid is only getting better. So, I know where my hard earned dollars are getting spent next year!!
My current vehicle is a 2000 Intrepid and it has suffered various problems during its 20,000km
The right transaxle replaced, brake rotors and pads, radio, fuel pump, fuel injectors.
The current problem is with the transmission, when shifting into drive from reverse, the engine will rev and the transmission goes into drive with a bang. This problem will not occur when the mechanic is watching, I think they believe its just my imagination. Too bad the car wasn't just an imagination.
I'm so sorry that you took my post wrong. I was certainly not trying to misinform you. Not being a mechanic I probably mislabeled the part that gives the r.h.front wheel its power. Regarding the injectors I didn't ask the quantity,actually I didn't know nor do I care how many the auto has, the mechanic stated it had faulty injectors. With the revving my foot gets completley removed from the gas, I have actually tried putting it in park after reverse then to drive and it works fine. Again not being an auto expert I don't know what the problem is,actually don't care, all I want is to have it fixed. I wasn't attempting to misinform, and I didn't realize this form was only for experts, I guess that leaves me out.
Based on the previous postings, my 1993 Dodge Intrepid ES is a rare slice of the pie. I have 137,500 miles on the car with only two beef; the air conditioning, and lack of recall notices. Although I live in Canada, we still get upwards of 3 hot months of the year. I have been told that I need a new evaporator, have no leaks (after a dye test), requires pulling the dash to fix, and around $1000. With respect to the recall, I had to phone Chrysler to find out that I have a recall regarding my suspension. I thought the idea was for them to contact me?
wonder what the thinking is on only offering this in Canada? Our market is so small compared to yours. Dont they think that all you Americans will hear about this and revolt!!
Reason One: Could it be because the bailout might be easier to obtain in Canada. During the last big Chrysler bailout in Canada all gov't agencies were told to favour purchases from Chrysler. In fact it was suggested all citizens follow the governments lead and buy Chrysler ie: its government (public) backed, if they go under then millions of taxpayers dollars will be lost. Keep the auto industry healty in Ontario.
Reason two: DC market share is lower in Canada than in the US.
Reason three: It takes more to entice Canadians to a second rate product.
a bailout, seems to me that the us government was the one that bailed out chrysler in the late 80s. anyway, the first quarterly loss since 92, pretty impressive for chrysler who has a somewhat jaded financial history anyway. the losses won't continue but profits will be eaten up for a time until all the minivan and ram truck factories are retooled by the end of next summer. they are also building a new cherokee factory.
For the record, the government did not "bail out" Chrysler. In 1979, the U.S. government gave Chrysler a low-interest loan, which was paid off, in-full, ahead of time, sometime in 1983. Of course, part of the deal was that Chrysler had to get rid of all of their good stuff, like the big block engines, most of their RWD cars, and sell off some of their other, non-automotive divisions. Before the government loan, I know Chrysler was one of the top manufacturers of motorhome chassis, but by the early 80's they were out completely. -Andre
Call it what you will, a dictionary defines bailout as help, rescue, save, assist, aid. From what I remember thats exactly what the gov't did to keep Chrysler sunny side up. History shows it was only a short term fix as Chrysler did not survive as it was back them. It now falls under German control, which is not a bad thing. Given time quality will improve and someday DC may be able to match the warranty offered by the top German auto company. Another poster refers to a bailout in the late 80's I'm not familiar with that occurence, but its probably true, once to the trough the road back is familiar, and easily travelled.
Where did anybody say Dodge quality is equal to Toyota ?? We all know it isn't . But neither is the price or cost of parts . Ever price a part for a Japanese car .Now this is no reason to buy a Dodge or any other car. We buy them because they appeal to us . So if you like your Toyota ,good for you. I like my Dodge . Don't put me down because of what I like. That just shows ignorance..
As noted by response 153, I am the first to admit that Dodge is not at the same quality or price level as Toyota, however, my Dodge (not anyone else's) has performed almost flawlessly for 220,000 kilometres (135,000 mile).
I find this forum quite interesting and informative; problems experienced by other becomes a potential free lesson to myself; ideas and solutions to other's problems may save me from graduating from the school of hard knocks; and finally, it provides a barometer of my car performance (provided by drivers) against the "pack".
I appreciate and look forward to those postings that provide insight into extending the life of my car which stopped being an investment the day it was purchased.
I had lunch today with a friend who manages a local tire shop. He told me they had their first 2001 Intrepid for alignment. Same old problem drifting to the right. After several failed repair attempts at the dealer the customer took his car to independent for advice.
I'm sure happy to read a post from someone who realizes that a typical automobile purchase is not an investment, but acquisition of a depreciating asset. If I had a nickel for every time I've heard "the money I have invested in my car" in the 32 years I've been a registered technician, I'd have been retired ages ago. In the end, they all end up as beer cans.
Over the past few years, Dodge has invested a lot of engineering time in car/minivan design (i.e. cab forward). Although quality, reliability, and repairability should be paramount in the design stage, Chrysler seems to focus its efforts on what you see rather than how its is constructed (i.e. weak 4 speed, poor head lights, etc.). However, since what I see is just as important as how it performs, these types of discussions will continue.
I have also looked for a good Dodge web site to ask questions and technical advice, opinions, etc. The best site I have found is www.moparchat.com This site is clearly the best in quality, with over 60,000 posts! Good luck either way Trevor!
I just read, DC is spending hundred of millions in new plants, one of them in Indiana to build new transmissions designed by mercedes for chrysler and dodge vehicles. Also expect more mercedes technology to be shared by chysler.
I have purchased my car brand new and I only had one problem with mine. Electrical trunk release wire went bad.
I have only 19k and I have changed the brakes and had the rotors cut because of choice. I change the oil regularly. Not saying that this my help, But i notice In every car that I had owned I always used Mobile Synthetic oil (full not blend) This help gives more life to the car. I might be me but the cars seem to respond better to it
I had a lexus es300, Maxima, and that braking noise that you hear when it after it rains is normal because I hear it form these other cars. It is the material that they use in the brake pads that sticks to the rotor.
I am sorry I did have one other problem with the intrepid but that was because of me. I drive hard in and out of NYC traffic and sometime when I am flying I need to stop at a much faster rate so I shift to neutral and then I down shift. I quote "NEVER DOWN SHIFT IN AN AUTOMATIC", After a months of down shifting I heard A similar noise that only occurred when I had accelerated. I messed up the transmission, the dealer fixed the problem and it was cover under warranty. Still problem free.
Concurrent with the transmission shift-cable failure, I noticed a VERY FAINT 'tin-cans-rattling' SOUND, a 'brief' sound (from somewhere under the car, front-end), that occurs only when I touch the accelerator, to maintain a steady 'parkway' speed of 25MPH. I can hear this when the windows are down, while driving very slowly -- it's a faint noise. RELATED ???-
I had this type of sound start around 20k miles. It bugged me for a while. I had looked under the car, between the doors and couldn't find anything. I figured that it was something to do with the door lock mechanism internal to the door. Since the noise always happened at highway speed I was stumped as to why it was occurring with no other vibration happening. I had the car at the dealer for an oil change and when it was up on the lift I looked under the car. There was a small piece of sheet metal (.1" thick) sticking out of a hole in the frame. I jiggled it and it sounded just like what I had been hearing. I pulled it out with pliers and the problem was solved. Why a thin piece of sheet metal was inside the greater frame box section boggles my mind? If you still have the problem you might want to probe the holes in the frame.
I posted a message (#15)in July listing problems that I had had with my 99 Intrepid. Come to find out the service that was supposed to be done to get rid of the odor in the AC was never done. The service manager forgot. I am not happy at all with that particular dealership. The odor was from a mold build-up in the AC system. I have a very small child that has developed allergies since the purchase of the car. I am very happy to say that Chrysler is buying my car back from me. I filled out the Arbitration paper and someone from Chrysler called me and offered to settle without having to go through the rest of the process. So far the process and the treatment I have received has been great. I would love for the selling dealership to get something negative out of this, but the servicing dealership has been fabulous. And the Chrysler representative was extremely nice. Part of the buy-back agreement is that I have to purchase another unused Chrysler product. I think I am going to try the Sebring Sedan.
Comments
Engine trouble spots in the 93-98 included pistons, rings, valves, blocks, heads, bearing, camshafts, gaskets, cam belts/chains, acc belts, oil pumps. CR states on the newer models, the components included in integrity and hardware should be carefully checked before you buy.
Integrity includes seals, weather stripping, air and water leaks, wind noise, rattles and squeaks.
Hardware includes window door and seat meahanisms, locks, safety belts, sunroof, glass.
Again good luck selling your Intrepid, I remember an old saying that goes something like, there's a sucker born every minute. I guess I have been one of those suckers twice, but never again.
Your host, Bruce
Right now I have a 2000 Intrepid base model with about 25,500 miles on it. I deliver pizzas with it, so this car isn't exactly babied. I haven't had any serious problems yet. Sometimes the tranny will refuse to engage reverse until I shift through the gears a couple times. Naturally, the dealer can't find any problems.
Actually, the dealer has been my biggest problem. They want to do a "30,000 mile checkup" on it. They want to change the spark plugs, do the transmission, change the coolant, and, get this...lube the chassis! All this for something like $300+! Now the coolant should be good for 100K miles, and so should the spark plugs. And according to "schedule B", the severe duty one, the tranny should be done around 50K miles.
This same dealer has now had my uncle's 1997 Chevy pickup for about 2 1/2 weeks for tranny problems. So much for the convenience of newer cars!
I'm taking it instead to a local garage whom I trust. They're going to look it over and do what it needs. They did say the tranny would most likely need to be serviced at 30K miles...that the 50K or 100K intervals are bs. The reason manufacturers say that they can go that long is because people have been neglecting the transmission for years, so they just gave up on trying to get people to have them serviced every 15K miles like in the old days.
I'm also going to need new brakes soon, although new brakes at 30K miles is actually pretty good for me. I go through police-spec brakes on an '89 Gran Fury about every 25K miles. And I have a '68 Dart with 10" manual drums all the way around that eats 'em about every 15K miles.
So I don't know...maybe I'm just lucky and happened to get a good Intrepid. But I'm happy with it so far (knock on wood) We'll see how long it lasts at the rate of 30K miles a year. I'm guessing it'll be trouble-free right up until the 100K extended warranty gives out ;-)
-Andre
As far as the older generation Intrepid goes, other motorists should FEAR that front bumper! I saw a first-generation Intrepid that hadrear-ended a late 80's Grand Marquis. The GM's frame bent right over the rear axle and the whole rear-end crumpled down, disabling the car. The Intrepid got a big dent in the hood between the headlights...that's it! In fact, about 5 mins later, I saw that 'trep in my rearview mirror, so it was evidently running fine. It's almost unheard of, in a rear-ender, for the car in back to come out almost unscathed like that. What's even more amazing here is that a GM is a lot bigger than an Intrepid, so I would think that the Intrepid would get the worst of it.
I agree with the back bumpers on the Intrepid though. The first time I had the car up on jacks looking under there, I was thinking that whoever designed the rear bumper oughtta be shot. Or forced to drive a 2000 Intrepid in a society where everybody else drives a Peterbilt ;-) For one thing, it doesn't look like there's anything back there designed to give and bounce back...no shock absorbers or anything. And the trunk lid is too close to the rear of the car. Sure it looks nice to have a bumper integrated into the car like that, but with no crush space, the trunk area is going to get compromised too easily in a rear-ender.
Oh, and here's the ultimate embarrassment...I backed into a snow embankment one day...you can still see the crease in my rear bumper.
Still, been a good car so far!
-Andre
Thanks guys, for the TSB bulletins on my tranny shifting problem. I'm going to have the dealer look at it while they're "greasing my suspension" LOL!
Our intrepid combatants have started feuding in public again. By mutual agreement, whenever they can't keep a civil tongue, their posts get deleted. Again, I'm sorry that it causes confusion for the other participants.
Your host, Bruce
http://www.allpar.com/cr.html
i found it very interesting and some good food for thought. i'm a big consumer reports supporter but some of this material is making me think twice...
Thanks to Fastdriver for the info.
This does not mean that every vehicle made under any given category has problems.
However, our members are free to discuss any maintenance or repair issues they have with vehicles they own in this conference.
With any given production line, there will be those who have no problems and love their vehicles and there will be those who have problems and wish they had bought something different. That is just how things work in the automotive world.
There is no need for sarcasm or backbiting here.
So quit. :-)
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
The right transaxle replaced, brake rotors and pads, radio, fuel pump, fuel injectors.
The current problem is with the transmission, when shifting into drive from reverse, the engine will rev and the transmission goes into drive with a bang. This problem will not occur when the mechanic is watching, I think they believe its just my imagination. Too bad the car wasn't just an imagination.
With the revving my foot gets completley removed from the gas, I have actually tried putting it in park after reverse then to drive and it works fine. Again not being an auto expert I don't know what the problem is,actually don't care, all I want is to have it fixed.
I wasn't attempting to misinform, and I didn't realize this form was only for experts, I guess that leaves me out.
you sure are "unfortunate"? good thing you have a 3yr/36k warrantee!!
Although, I am very happy with my 30MPG car.
http://biz.yahoo.com/cnw/000926/daimlerchr_2.html
this would bring dc's north american products up
to the warranty standards of toyota, etc.
Could it be because the bailout might be easier to obtain in Canada. During the last big Chrysler bailout in Canada all gov't agencies were told to favour purchases from Chrysler. In fact it was suggested all citizens follow the governments lead and buy Chrysler ie: its government (public) backed, if they go under then millions of taxpayers dollars will be lost. Keep the auto industry healty in Ontario.
Reason two:
DC market share is lower in Canada than in the US.
Reason three:
It takes more to entice Canadians to a second rate product.
Reason four:
Those at DC don't need a reason.
a bailout, seems to me that the us government was the one that bailed out chrysler in the late 80s. anyway, the first quarterly loss since 92, pretty impressive for chrysler who has a somewhat jaded financial history anyway. the losses won't continue but profits will be eaten up for a time until all the minivan and ram truck factories are retooled by the end of next summer. they are also building a new cherokee factory.
-Andre
Another poster refers to a bailout in the late 80's I'm not familiar with that occurence, but its probably true, once to the trough the road back is familiar, and easily travelled.
I find this forum quite interesting and informative; problems experienced by other becomes a potential free lesson to myself; ideas and solutions to other's problems may save me from graduating from the school of hard knocks; and finally, it provides a barometer of my car performance (provided by drivers) against the "pack".
I appreciate and look forward to those postings that provide insight into extending the life of my car which stopped being an investment the day it was purchased.
James
I have also looked for a good Dodge web site to ask questions and technical advice, opinions, etc. The best site I have found is www.moparchat.com This site is clearly the best in quality, with over 60,000 posts! Good luck either way Trevor!
I have only 19k and I have changed the brakes and had the rotors cut because of choice. I change the oil regularly. Not saying that this my help, But i notice In every car that I had owned I always used Mobile Synthetic oil (full not blend) This help gives more life to the car. I might be me but the cars seem to respond better to it
I had a lexus es300, Maxima, and that braking noise that you hear when it after it rains is normal because I hear it form these other cars. It is the material that they use in the brake pads that sticks to the rotor.
I am sorry I did have one other problem with the intrepid but that was because of me. I drive hard in and out of NYC traffic and sometime when I am flying I need to stop at a much faster rate so I shift to neutral and then I down shift. I quote "NEVER DOWN SHIFT IN AN AUTOMATIC", After a months of down shifting I heard A similar noise that only occurred when I had accelerated. I messed up the transmission, the dealer fixed the problem and it was cover under warranty. Still problem free.
failure, I noticed a VERY FAINT
'tin-cans-rattling' SOUND, a 'brief' sound (from
somewhere under the car, front-end), that occurs
only when I touch the accelerator, to maintain a
steady 'parkway' speed of 25MPH. I can hear this
when the windows are down, while driving very
slowly -- it's a faint noise. RELATED ???-
I had this type of sound start around 20k miles. It bugged me for a while. I had looked under the car, between the doors and couldn't find anything. I figured that it was something to do with the door lock mechanism internal to the door. Since the noise always happened at highway speed I was stumped as to why it was occurring with no other vibration happening. I had the car at the dealer for an oil change and when it was up on the lift I looked under the car. There was a small piece of sheet metal (.1" thick) sticking out of a hole in the frame. I jiggled it and it sounded just like what I had been hearing. I pulled it out with pliers and the problem was solved. Why a thin piece of sheet metal was inside the greater frame box section boggles my mind? If you still have the problem you might want to probe the holes in the frame.