Dodge Intrepid Problems

1235

Comments

  • dhughes3dhughes3 Member Posts: 56
    You can buy self-tapping drain plugs. I used one on a car on which a Godzilla oriented ham-handed mechanic had stripped the threads from the pan. Worked fine for 10 years. I have also seen expanding rubber plugs that work similarly to the old Thermos bottle plugs.
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Member Posts: 56
    I like my '96 (now at 82K miles) Intrepid pretty well, but like most cars I'd change a few things. My biggest complaint is road and wind noise, which are really ridiculous for such an otherwise well designed car. I did learn, when I replaced the original Goodyear tires with B.F. Goodrich, that the tire noise can be greatly reduced.
    Now for the questions. 1. Has anyone had the TSB fix for the weak door stops done, and if so what does the dealer charge? 2. Is the power steering pump a problem on these cars? Mine is leaking and so is a friend's '96. 3. I hear a lot of these cars with an apparent transmission whine, noticeable when the car is cold. It sounds like an electric motor whined. Any comments?
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Member Posts: 56
    To esj1--yes, I've had the broken dipstick problem. Dealer said it is common, keeps large stock of replacements (ca. $7). Trade in value--two problems here. One is the cars have a bad reputation because they are trouble prone, but the big one is the availability of "program cars" with 20K miles for $6000 off list. Any wonder your resale vaule sucks? Does anyone else out there wish they'd get rid of these urethane bumpers that scratch so easily and go back to the old chrome battering rams?
  • cayohuesocayohueso Member Posts: 1
    See messages #149/173/178 . All similar to my 96 Intrepid problems. One of the fixes involved replacing a bushing in the steering tie rod assembly which solved part of the clunking and pulling to right(left?) on acceleration. The really bad clunking which is more pronounced in cold weather, I believe has to do with the rack and pinion steering assembly which one shop est. repair at aprox $1500. Found a mechanic who was willing to fix by reversing the (I have no idea what its really called) steering T located in front of the firewall, behind the engine, replaced the rubber "doughnuts" and reassembled. Fixed it temporarily (not as pronounced ,but clunking still returns in temperatures less than 50 deg). Now experiencing popping sound when stepping on accelerator from stop or when passing. Dealer sezs engine mounts need replacing...aprox $340. Won't even go into brakes/rotors/tires/power steering/sunroof/fuel rails . I haven't quite bought this car twice but ownership of Intrepids from what I see in this forum and my personal experience is not for the feint of heart or budget conscious. Town Hall is great source for info...as always caveat emptor
  • landcruisermanlandcruiserman Member Posts: 14
    Well, I know I shouldn't of complained about my Intrepid a couple of days ago. This morning the starter died on the car. This should not happen on a 2.5 year old car. Another $275 down the drain. Has anyone else had a starter die on them? Any comments from the engineers at Dodge or mechanics if this is a common problem.
  • mark194mark194 Member Posts: 15
    I posted in the Intrepid forum that my sons 98 with about 75000 miles on it had the starter crap out on him. His cost from the dealer was about 350 with labor. None of the after market auto parts stores offered a replacement (except NAPA). He is somewhat mechanically inclined but decided to have the dealer do the work. If you are up to doing it yourself it didn't look that difficult to me.
  • jeh61jeh61 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 00 RT and in Jan I began to hear that same noise. I left it over night at the dealer so they could check it in the AM. They confirmed the noise and ordered all the parts ($672.00 in parts)
    Two weeks later they called, so at 2955 miles, yes 2955 they replaced all my rocker arms. This fix only lasted 1000 miles. So I took it back so they could hear the noise again. They called the next morning and said they had heard it but I would have to wait until it got worse to verify the bad lifter. They even call the Dodge ninja in Detroit or somewhere and he or she had no answer for them. You need to go and report it as so to have a record. Good luck
  • huntersdlhuntersdl Member Posts: 1
    Guess what everyone. Its your neighberly friendly Marshall Herd Fan here. I have a 2000 ES intrepid with 44 k miles. Surprisingly I have had and i want to clarify knock on wood, have had really no problems with my car. I had a rack that pulled to much to the right and a squeeky driver window and emegency brake cable. None of that was a big deal and all under warranty. No mechanical problems yet and it rides great and quiet. I did buy the extended warranty so in case something comes up then im covered. The head mechanic told me this engine was based off an accord v6 in design and materials. They said they aimed for quality power and durability. Im not sure if its true but that is what they told me. Ive only really ever heard tranny problems with intrepids and otherwise the current model is supposed to be pretty good. Good for a used car if you trace the repair history and see it hasnt had much work. Any questions email me.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Noticed lots of posts here about transmission problems. For the record, I now own a Dakota but drove a 97 and 99 Intrepid many THOUSANDS of miles with only one major weakness: Front Rotors warp very easily.
    Now back to transmission issues. One thing you all must be aware of is this. There is no "universal" fluid for Chrysler transmissions. There is ONE kind ATF type 7176+. Not Dexron or any other type. Think I am preaching too much? Go to www.allpar.com and go to the transmission section.
    I know all of you do your best to take care of your cars and would never knowingly do something bad like use the wrong fluid. But consider this: What about the quick lube place or other garage you go to? Are they aware of the fluid requirement for Chrysler trannies? Example: Had my 97 intrepid in for 70K service which also called for trans fluid and filter change due to the type of driving I was doing at the time. I asked the service writer at the FIRESTONE garage "Do you have the correct fluid for my Intrepid" Sure do, he replied. We got plenty of DEXRON in stock and your transmission won't use that much to refill it. I asked for my keys and left, went to a local dodge dealer and had it done there.
    So the point is, for those of you who have your cars serviced, does the technician actually know what goes in your car? If you hear "Ain't hurtin' nothin," or "They all take the same fluid" my advice is to walk away. If you are told Dexron will work, walk away. If you are told Chrysler is only trying to sell you their product, walk away. Driving a quart low will do far less harm than 8-9 quarts of the wrong fluid.
    Be alert and ask questions. It could save you a bundle.
  • mubashir73mubashir73 Member Posts: 1
    I arrived here in the states as a doctor in june,2000.I was on the lookout for buying a car. I found an add for a Dodge intrepid which I bought for about 5500$.I needed the car as I am a doctor and never had the time to look around for different cars. It had 92,000 miles on it. The car has already cost me 1500 dollars extra for maintainence only and has broken down on me, twice. Idon't know about the make but let me assure you that buying an old car is a huge risk that one undertakes.Be careful!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Mopar67,

    I once had the manager at a Firestone store tell me, and I quote, "We don't have the time to memorize the oil requirements of every single car out there!". This was when I found out that they put 10W-30 in everything, whether it needs it or not. The car in question at the time was my '89 Gran Fury, which needs 15W-40. So needless to say, I don't deal with them any more!

    I had my 2000 Intrepid's tranny serviced at 30K miles, because I do alot of stop-and-go driving. I didn't know about the specific tranny fluid requirement at the time, but my local mechanic is pretty good at doing the right thing, so I'm not worried. I've got about 42,500 miles on it now, so I'd guess that if they put in the wrong fluid, it would be acting up by now.

    I've also heard about the warped rotor issue, as well, but have been lucky so far!

    -Andre
  • perolafperolaf Member Posts: 5
    Reply to # 197
    Actually, if you write out the chemical reaction for the combustion of gasoline (approximated by octane), for every gallon of gas burned a gallon plus a pint of water is formed.
    -Your friendly chemist :)
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Your Firestone guy tells you "Don't have time to "memorize" all the fluid requirements for you car?" Hmmm, that's what a database is for!
    YOu did the right thing not going back to that place.
    For more information or if you know someone who wants more information, go to www.allpar.com.Excellent site for mopar fans like us.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Hey gang,

    Is "Type 4" the same thing as "7176+"? The reason I'm asking, is because I just asked my mechanic what they put in my Intrepid when its tranny was serviced at 30K miles. He said "Type 4", and that it was the same as 7176.

    Should I be worried? BTW, the car has about 43,000 miles on it now, so I'm guessing if it was the wrong fluid, it would've wreaked havoc by now!

    Mopar67,
    Glad to see I'm not the only Mopar fan left! BTW, Firestone has lately been sending me coupons and fliers and stuff, trying to talk me into coming back. I think that particular store is under new management now. Still, I'm not going to chance it! Now all I need to do is start drving that old Gran Fury more so that the Firestone Firehawks wear out and need to be replaced, so I can get their name off my car! (although they've actually been pretty good tire)

    -Andre
  • manatee67manatee67 Member Posts: 4
    I am car shopping, I was looking at either a Grand Caravan or Intrepid. Not sure if we really need a van. I can't seem to find people who like their car/van. I know this is a problem site, but since I am researching as much as I can before making that ultimate decision I am really becoming disenchanted by any new vehicle. (or used vehicle either) So if there is anyone out there who has bought one of these vehicles and really likes it please let me know. Thanks for any feedback.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    I have a my 2000 Intrepid 2.7 for almost 43,000 miles now, and it's only been back to the dealer for one repair...the driver's side power lock actuator had to be replaced under warranty around 35,000 miles.

    I had the tranny serviced at 30K, new tires at 30K, new front brakes at 39K, and that's really about it, other than routine maintenance like oil changes, filter changes, and tire rotation, which I do myself.

    The only things I'm not so crazy about are the fact that the tires wore out so fast (cheap 300-treadwear rating), the base 2.7 is a bit lacking in low-end torque, although it makes up for it if you nail the pedal, and it's a bit short in front legroom (I'm 6'3", though).

    Overall, I'm happy with it, though.
    -Andre
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    I'll check on that and get back to you. I always thought it was type 3 unless type 4 is an upgrade of sorts.
  • enetheneth Member Posts: 285
    Chrysler changed the fluid requirements partway through the 2000 model year, after redesigning (yet again) parts of the transmission (this time I recall it being the differential components).

    I don't think they changed the recommendation for the earlier models - only for models built after about halfway through MY 2000.
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    Tis true its type 3 for 2000 and type 4 for 2001. THis is according to BOB (big Orange book) which is the dakota service manual.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    So am I in for trouble then, for having Type 4 in my 2000 Intrepid? I bought it on November 6, 1999, so I'd guess that it's an early model. Should I have them change it to type 3? I'm starting to miss the good old days when you could just throw any old crap in your Torqueflite 904 and just be done with it!!

    -Andre
  • mopar67mopar67 Member Posts: 728
    in a tranny. SO to answer your question, I dunno.
    But I willagree totally with the old904 or 727 they took dexron and digested it well and ran forever and ever. God I wish we could go back to those days.
  • rintrepidrintrepid Member Posts: 2
    I've been very happy with my 2000 ES Intrepid. I love how it looks and drives. Its a very comfortable car with a LOT of room. People are amazed at the trunk space. I definitely recommend the larger engine. When I test drove the 2.7, it seemed a little weak. The only problem I had was that one of the rear door lock actuators would intermittently stick. When I took it in for service, Dodge adjusted the linkage and its been fine ever since. My previous cars were a Toyota Cressida (215,000+ miles) and Honda Accord (203,000+ miles) so I was a little nervous going with a Dodge, but so far so good. The only complaint I have about the way the car is designed is that the cupholders don't have a lot of room. Larger cups rest against the center storage unit lid and you have to be careful opening the storage compartment or you can knock the cup over! (I did that once - luckily it was empty).
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Hey gang,

    Well, now that I'm creeping up there in mileage (43,500), my 2000 base Intrepid is starting to act up a bit. Nothing too major, but some minor annoyances.

    Sometimes, when I unlock the car remotely, the driver's side door won't unlock. The car disarms, and the other three doors unlock. In fact, the lock button on the driver's door even pops up. But I still can't open the dang door! Sometimes, if I re-arm it and dis-arm it a couple times, it'll finally let me in. Or I'll just go in the back door, reach up, and pull the handle to open it. I did have to get the power lock actuator in that door replaced, around 35,000 miles, so I wonder if they didn't hook it up quite right. It's only done it a few times though, so I probably won't worry about it unless it gets worse.

    The other problem...the rubber seal around the opening at one of the rear doors came loose. I tried to push it back, only to have it come loose at another spot! Is there some kind of adhesive I could use to glue it back into place? I don't want to take it back to the dealer for something like this, since it's out of factory warranty, and the extended warranty has a $200.00 deductible.

    -Andre
  • gdickesgdickes Member Posts: 1
    97 Intrepid 3.5L- 102,000 miles. Watch out!!! I went to my dealer for a Check Engine Light- MIL Code 43. Service told me I was misfiring on Cyl#1 and needed a valve job. I went to a friend's service station for a second opinion (thought the dealer was taking me on a long one). Nope- low compression-needs a valve job. Car was properly maintained and not abused. It has always had a rough idle. This is the last Dodge I buy. Daimler should dump Chrysler before they sink, too.
  • elmoleafelmoleaf Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    The money pit is a 1995 ES. A/C problems surfaced at 431 miles past the 70,000/7-year extended coverage that Dodge gave for evaporator coil problems on 93,94,and 95 models (though 93s and 94s apparently were given higher mileage limits). A/C first leaked & was refilled in 1999, but dealership couldn't find any leak. Car was in storage in heated garage for 1.5 years (we foolishly thought we could find someone who would buy it). Now back on the road, a/c recharged again, but still no leak found. And now, it only blows hot air.
    So far, I can't get Chrysler Customer Service to commit to any sort of coverage if we find that the problem is indeed the evaporator coil.
    Has anyone ever had any success with Chrysler in getting coverage for a borderline warranty case? The mechanical problems with the car are a shame, since we otherwise enjoy the car.
  • alexv1nalexv1n Member Posts: 248
    A friend of mine asked me to post his question for him. He's considering buying a 1998-2001 Intrepid and was wondering if there's anything to know about before he takes the plunge? I mean, any major problems that are likely to appear. I have read about the powerglass motor in doors, but you might know of something else (engine, transmission, electrical, ...)? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Another friend of mine actually owns 98 Intrepid and he complains of some ABS problems/failures also some front suspension trouble. Anyone heard anything on those?

    Thanks in advane.

    P.S. I tried to read the posts here but there are so many posts related to earlier models so I'm stuck filtering all the info...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Here's a rundown on my Y2K Intrepid's history. My apologies to those who've read through this before!

    Anyway, here goes...
    8,000 miles: flat tire

    15,000 miles: dealer visit: tranny acting funny. They found nothing wrong, but since I've learned to at least let the car wait 2-3 seconds after starting before putting it into gear, and haven't had any problems since.

    30,000 miles: new tires (the 300 treadwear Eagle GA's wore out faster than some junkyard tires I've bought in the past), and a tranny service (pizza delivery took its toll)

    35,000 miles: Power lock actuator in driver's door replaced under warranty.

    39,000 miles: New front brake pads; installed them myself. Rear ones still have plenty of meat on them.

    43,000 miles: rubber door seal coming loose around rear left door. Also discovered that right side power mirror will no longer move, but at least it failed in the right spot for me!

    I've also had two problems with the interior...the ashtray cover opens up every time I hit the brakes fairly hard, and the cupholder doesn't always pop out as quickly as it should.

    I haven't had any problems with the power windows (a miracle, considering how much I play with them),but I noticed they do make a creaking noise when you put them all the way up, that's a little disconcerting.

    But that's about it. 17 months, and 44,300 miles later, I'm still happy.

    Hope this helps some!
    -Andre
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    The admitively brief history of my 2000 Intrepid

    Built early April, 2000, dealer received April 14, 2000.

    Purchased October 30, 2000

    Problem at around 3,000 miles. Tranny would "neutralize" once after being started cold. Happened on way to dealer to get a couple of delivery issues fixed (paint scratches). After a couple of tries to fix, determined bad transmission case casting. Dealer and Zone office decided to replace with brand new transmission to the tune of $3,000 under warranty. Shipped old tranny to Detroit for analysis.

    6,182 miles - Issue with TSB issued on serpentine belt growling in cold weather during first minute of operation. Retightened to new specs while in for oil change.

    8,500 miles (currently) - no problems. Mileage is getting better, performance has noticeably improved. The 3.5 engine seems to have a magic improvement at around 6,000 miles. Gas mileage is less than the 2.7, ride is a little firmer. Single CD unit in R/T has nice sound.

    I also bought an extended warranty over the Internet. Plan on keeping the car for at least 7 years unless the new Charger actually is rear wheel drive, or the Crown Vic finally gets an engine in it.

    Wishes - split folding rear seat, rear cupholders.
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Member Posts: 56
    My '96 Intrepid is needing a new starter at 85K. My girlfriend's Caravan had to have it replaced at 65K. Both 3.3 motors, both Nippondenso starters. Search for an independent rebuilder you can trust. Cost for me to have the gal's redone was $125 (remove, repair, reinstall), mine will be about the same. Not really a major expense, but it is too soon. Now that I'm thinking about it, my son's Dakota v-8 needed a starter at 60K; wonder if it was a Nipponsenso!
  • cerebus17cerebus17 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 1993 Intrepid for a couple years now, and have been very pleased with it. I have the performance package with the 3.5L v6. You'd think there would be more problems since it is the first year the car came out, but I have been happy. The only problems weren't too bad...I had spark plug wires go out, a/c leak, and a transmission mount break, but all were covered by warranty, and not unusual for a car with 80k miles. I love the performance from my car, but I wish there was more I could do to it. I put a k&n filter in it and got custom exhaust made, but there's not much in the way of performance parts. Its still faster than most cars, though. I have no problem outpacing anything from older z28s to any import. it's great. I only wish there were more upgrades for it. I want more speed. Anyone know of anything else I can do?
  • thewaldothewaldo Member Posts: 3
    Things I've had examined, fixed, replaced, recalled, ignored, unduplicated, etc:
    FYI: my 98 ES has just over 40,000 original miles, and the issues below are not in order of appearance.

    -All window motors replaced (one twice)
    -Window lock on the drivers door replaced
    -Transmission control sensor replaced (36,600)
    -Internal dashboard lights flashing at random intervals (fixed for now)
    -Door seals replaced (all 4 doors)
    -Body control module replaced (BCM) (twice)
    -Air conditioner related to BCM
    -Radio/CD works, but no sound.(twice)
    -Rear courtesy lights both went out at the same time
    -One rear door lock sticking at random(unduplicated)
    -Emission control sensor replaced (recall)
    -Alarm malfunction (alarm would not shut off, even when in motion- fixed)
    -Car wouldn't start, related to BCM (towed to dealer)
    -Horn not working (twice)

    and I'm sure there's more I can't recall. I tried to use it as a trade in for another car recently, but the dealer didn't want to give me what I owed. It's not worth crap. I should've just taken the loss and gotten rid of it.

    Anybody have similar issues or am I just really lucky?
  • mark194mark194 Member Posts: 15
    Looks like you have your hands full, but (now its only a suggestion) I'm guessing that you have an alternator or voltage regulator thats over charging or spiking the electrical system which in turn is causing all the problems.
  • nelson33nelson33 Member Posts: 100
    Hello everyone,

    I own a 1999 Dodge Intrepid ES with 27K miles. I recently noticed a vibration at speeds of 50 to 60mph when I apply the brakes. The severity of the steering wheel vibration increases the harder I apply the brake. I believe I also feel it at lower speeds, but very mildly. Has anyone had a similar experience with their Trep? If so please share. I will be taking it in to the shop next week to have it checked and I would like to be a little prepared. Thanks all.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    A vibration when braking only is usually caused by a warped brake rotor.
  • meeeshelmeeeshel Member Posts: 4
    Just bought a 98' Intrepid. I am now concerned about the transmission... and apparently need to be concerned about the type of fluid to add to it. Is the fluid concern (AFT type 7176+) also for the 98's. My car has 42,000 and so far I love it.

    Does anyone have good news as far as the 98's go. I haven't read that many bad things about this year so far, but have sure seen a mixture.

    I'm am a single female and want to have all my ducks in a row when I go into a place to have my fluids/stuff taken care of.

    Any advise or information would be appreciated.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Traditionally, people tend to say it's not good to buy a car its first year out because the automakers often use the buying public as guinea pigs to see if they have all the bugs worked out. However, I've also heard that the '98 Intrepid/Concorde was the first Chrysler design in decades to break that tradition. They've made running improvements over the years, but the '98 is still a good car. I'd worry more about maintenance (they do still have that tranny problem) and how the previous owner kept up the car than any potential first-year failings.

    Definitely keep the transmission serviced though. And that's good advice for any car, just not the Chrysler 4-speed auto. My mother's '99 Altima had to be rebuilt at 35K miles, and she's much more gentle on cars than I am. I had my 2000 serviced at 30K miles, and I'm having them check it out at 50K, when I take it in to have them check the belts, hoses, spark plugs, etc.

    -Andre
  • buchanandbuchanand Member Posts: 1
    Hello Everyone,

    I just purchased a used 2000 Intrepid ES 2 days ago. It has 18,000 miles, runs great, and appears to have been properly serviced by the previous owner. I do have one problem with the driver's side window power button making a clicking sound after lowering the window. I'll take it in to have that check next week. Other than that, everything is great. It's a very attractive and roomy car, especially for my 6'2" frame. My wife especially enjoys how the car attracts attention with it's stylish looks. I did not purchase the extended warranty, but after reading a few of the problems that others have encountered with the tranny, I'll definitely purchase it. I did not get a history on the car, but I'll look into that as well. If anyone has any suggestions as to where I can purchase an extended warranty on-line and if it's possible to get a car's history on-line, please let me know.
  • nelson33nelson33 Member Posts: 100
    Thanks. I dread having to take it in to the dealer for service but I guess I have to.

    So far, the car has been excellent overall. I am enjoying it except for a tranny that's a little reluctant to downshift when I ask it to.
  • meeeshelmeeeshel Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone have a clue as to the correct trans. fluid for this car. I would like to have all that taken care of this weekend if possible and want to know what I am talking about when I take it in.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Your vehicle requires ATF+3 (Type 7176) ONLY.

    Starting with the 1991 model year, Chrysler has required the use of ATF type 7176 fluid in all Chyrsler automatic transmissions/transaxles. ATF matching this spec is available from Texaco, Union 76, Quaker State, Pennzoil, and others.

    Chrysler 7176 fluid is no longer the only fluid to use in a late model transmission. Chrysler TSB# 21-16-99 lists the current vehicles that only use ATF+4 (Type 9602), part 05013457AA for quart bottles. The vehicles that use this fluid include:

    Model Year Car Built After
    1999 and later Prowler 7-20-98
    2000 and later Neon 4-24-99
    2000 and later Minivans (11th letter of VIN=R) 10-10-99
    2000 and later Minivans (11th letter of VIN=B) 10-18-99
    1999 and later Concorde, Intrepid, LHS, 300M 7-20-98
    2000 and later Sebring convertible 5-21-99
    1999 and later Cirrus, Stratus, Breeze 9-7-98
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Hey gang,

    I've been wondering...what would happen if I put modern tranny fluid, like ATF+3 or ATF+4 in an older car, like, say, my '89 Gran Fury, my '68 Dart, or my '57 DeSoto?

    It's tough to kill those older Chrysler transmissions as it is, but would they benefit any from a more modern type of fluid?

    -Andre
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The friction modifier characteristics of ATF+3 are not compatible with the mechanical design, clutch and band composition, or fluid pressures of your earlier transmissions. Expect slide bump shifts.
  • meeeshelmeeeshel Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. I actully just pulled out my owners manual and found the correct type for my car. It says ATF +2 Type 7176. Now I do not know if there is a difference between +2 and +3, but I guess I should go with what is listed there, unless something has been updated since the manual was printed. Thanks again.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,859
    Alcan,

    Thanks for the info about my older transmission. Guess I'd better just stick with what they're used to.

    Meeeshel,

    A couple months ago, I asked my mechanic what kind of fluid they put in my Intrepid when they did the tranny service, and he said Type 4. He said the older ones take Type 3, which is the same thing as 7176. I was a little worried, because I've heard that Chrysler 4-speed automatics tend to fail right after the servicing, which is a sure sign the mechanic put the wrong fluid in. However, I had mine serviced last October, and this was around March that I asked him, about 14,000 miles later. So I'm sure if he put the wrong fluid in, I would've known about it by now!

    I do remember him saying Type 3 and 7176 are the same thing, don't know about Type 2 though.

    -Andre
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    meeeshel: Type 7176 fluid was originally marketed as ATF+, superseded by improved +2, then superseded by improved +3. Unlikely you'll find +2 around unless some retailer's dumping old stock.

    andre1969: Type 9602 is +4, which is NOT backward compatible with earlier transmissions/transaxles. Read post #241 for applications, including yours.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    Cong. on your Intrepid. I am looking for the same car along with couple more different brands. The ones that I found w/20K-24K were around $15K-16K. I believed I could do better than that I preferred to search more. Do you mind telling us how much your deal was? Thanks.
  • eeeleeel Member Posts: 57
    95 intrepid - purchase new in 95 -
    oil changes every 3k
    tranny fluid/filter at 30k
    cooling flush at 30k
    that's it - traded in w/almost 50k on a 98 intrepid

    98 intrepid - oil change every 3k
    tranny fluid/filter at 30k
    that's it - still have it - still no problems
  • CanadaCanada Member Posts: 1
    Last week I started having intermittent starting problems with my 94 (115K miles). When I turned the ignition key, only heard a "click". Several attempts like that then the engine started. Took my car to the auto-electric shop, they checked everything (battery, cables, starter, solenoid) and said nothing wrong (they could not reproduce the problem) and suggested the starter is the culprit. I then took it home and for several days, the problem never happened. However, yesterday, the symptom returned.

    Should I change the starter, or is it a on-board computer problem (hmm, could be expensive)?
  • mdintrepidrt01mdintrepidrt01 Member Posts: 1
    With only 2900 miles on it, my brand new 2001 Intrepid R/T started bucking violently on the way home from work yesterday. Stopped at the nearest dealer and, confirmed a CAM sensor problem which, will be fixed under warrantee next week.
    Kind of irritated that my new car didn't even make to it's first oil change before having it's first serious problem. Hopefully, this is not a sign of things to come !
    Anyone else hear of CAM sensor problems w/ Dodge?
  • mark194mark194 Member Posts: 15
    The Cam sensor on my sons 98 Intrepid (2.7L)went while under warranty. It went again some 30,000 miles later when it was out of warranty. It's a simple fix and the part is only about 30 bucks. My Mopar mechanic friends say that it's not usual for the sensors to blow.
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