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Chevrolet Cobalt Transmission Issues

My 06 Cobalt was taken to the shop 3 times for the trans grinding when shifting from 1-2 gears and grinding on down shift from 3-2 first time i was told theres no problem, 2nd time I was told I need a new clutch and it wasnt covered under warranty I took the car another Dealer they said it need a new trans and clutch the replaced them under warranty but they refused to cover the tow bill for the second visit...I will never buy another GM product ever...


  • grosloupgrosloup Posts: 239
    Why didn't G.M. pay for the second tow? You've been towed to a G.M. dealer, right? Your warranty is suppose to cover everything. Something's wrong here. My car has been towed 5 times under warranty and never cost me a penny.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I see, because they didn't cover a tow you will turn towards a Japanese brand with known inferior customer service. What would you do if they didn't pay for the tow?
  • I have sadly a 2005 chevy cobalt..keep in mind that as i list the problems that i deliver newspapers and I drive every day which for me adds up to 155,000 miles in 3 yrs
    1.first thing that went wrong was the ignition module.. turns out that bosch plugs are destructive to a cobalt, they burn coil packs and modules out.. with ac delco i never have that problem... cost of replacement parts before knew what was wrong $900
    2. front calipers not working..still have not figured this one out, although i will probably have to replace them.. estimated cost of repair $300 or so..
    3.because of problem #2 the car uses exclusivly back brakes which means that they (brake pads) wear faster, much much faster, so they wore down to the metal (without making a sound) and into the hub which now means that the hub is stuck on the car and the whole assembly had to be replaced repair cost $300
    4.aluminum wheel studs on the car.. constant crossthreading constant replacement..finally changed them out for aftermarket metal studs.. replacemnt costs (all the aluminum studs i replaced plus the new (working) metal studs) $120
    5.transmission went out at 147,000..reverse would not work at all..(out of warrenty btw) replacent transmission from the junk yard and paying my help) $930
    6. new transmission works fine most of the time but when it gets hot it shifts badly from 1-2.. thought it was leaking fluid so i have added fluid alot maybe as much as 25 quarts i hope the overfill works :blush: now i think it has a line stopped up somewhere since when i let it cool down it quits bucking going into 2nd gear.. i think the new transmission fluid i added cooled down the old fluid making it look like i was actually fixing something..
    7. battery cable with a bare spot touching the frame.. ( 1 week ago) after shorting out the alternator, destroying the computer and reprogramming the new one repair costs $1100
    8. sputter when in park.. carbon buildup in the throttle body $5 for spray cleaner and constant trips to the dealership, it was not a computer problem so they did not have a clue btw (very pissed that they can't repair a car without a diagnostic computer like a real mechanic)
    9. gasket around heater core went bad thus flooding my passenger side with condensation 1/2 inch deep in the floor board --this one was free since at the time it was under warrente
    10. shocks all the way around need replaced.. i carry alot of weight in the car (newspapers--almost 1000 a day) estimated cost for repair $500
    11.door locks started locking and unlocking by themselves and door unlocker button no longer works (remote keyless entry device) i removed the fuse from the box and now unlock and lock by hand $35 for the lock switches ( which btw i have not had a chance to replace yet) who knows whats wrong here
    12. and best of all my mechanic charges 100 per hour for repairs.. and im so through with the dealership.. never again

    final thoughts... always disconnect the negative from the battery first.. never test the alternator by removing the positive cable while it is running.. gm has rigged the alternator to self destruct if you try this..lastly my new car (i can't trade in my old car without a massive hit since it has so many miles) will be a honda or a toyota or nissan.. if the american cars were better made i would consider but since they are not and since i actually want a dependable car im going with a rice burner . no wonder their stocks are going in the toilet

    total repair costs thus far after 3 yrs $4,240.00 and clumbing (door locks and transmission still messed up :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • okko1okko1 Posts: 327
    you want some cheese with that whine? :P
  • ahh so many problems i left one out

    when i changed out the transmission the shifter got stuck (which is a common problem for a cobalt so i had to force it out of park which in turn broke something in the shifter case who knows how much that one will cost and at the same time the key got stuck in the ignition and will not come out, yet another problem with the cobalt... im sure the two are related problems... safety switch i think.. sure this fix will be several hundred dollars

    and no i got the cheese 3 yrs ago, it comes standard with the cobalt.. thanks anyway ;)
  • I had my new 08 for less than a month and my wife ran over something on the way home. It bent bottom of Radiator up which pulled the metal from the plastic at the ends. Long story short.....I replaced the radiator but I know I lost a bit of tranny fluid in the swap. The 08 does not have a tranny stick and in the booklet it says the dealership has to do any tranny fluid changing or checking. Anybody have any ideas? I live over a hundred miles from my dealership and am real busy and do most of the maintainence on my own vehicles so I hope someone has an answer.
  • :confuse: I had my new 08 for less than a month and my wife ran over something on the way home. It bent bottom of Radiator up which pulled the metal from the plastic at the ends. Long story short.....I replaced the radiator but I know I lost a bit of tranny fluid in the swap. The 08 does not have a tranny stick and in the booklet it says the dealership has to do any tranny fluid changing or checking. Anybody have any ideas? I live over a hundred miles from my dealership and am real busy and do most of the maintainence on my own vehicles so I hope someone has an answer.
  • You can change it yourself, but it is very difficult. With the sealed transmission (no dipstick) the only real way to get the fluid level correct when refilling is to have the car on a lift so that the vehicle is level. Otherwise you could overfill it. I ran into this with a 2001 Malibu. I took the pan off, drained it and then went to refill it. I found the fill plug under the air intake, but no dipstick to see where the level was as I refilled it. Unfortunately unless you want to run the risk of either underfilling and burning up the transmission, or overfilling and blowing seals, you will need to take this to either the dealer or a service shop that is familiar with servicing sealed transmissions.
  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Se, Pa.Posts: 374
    The 4T45E is filled thru the top of the transmission and on the drivers side. My 2007 LT has a black rubber plug on the fill area.

    To check the level.

    Locate the hex head plug near the pan, about 1.5" from the bottom of the transmission. This is the ATF level checking plug and is located near the passenger tire.

    With the engine idling while the car is on a level surface, the ATF should be level with the plug hole. Also, the engine/transmission should be at normal operating temps to check proper ATF level.


    With the engine off, removing the level check plug will drain about 3-4qts of ATF. Of course this feature could come in handy for those wishing to do some partial drain and fills.

    I've done several of these and it's not as hard as some think or suggest.
  • cmhj2000cmhj2000 Se, Pa.Posts: 374
    A Picture is worth 1,000 words. Can't post a pick here so,,,,,

    In the photo section of this group is a picture of our auto tranny. Pretty simple once you know where everything is at and have the basis instructions, which I posted above..
  • the cobalt 2005 transmission is sealed, but , the transmission is equipped with an overflow screw, which basically means that if you over fill it, the overflow will just come out .. this is located on the back passenger side of the transmission..the overfill comes out and runs down onto the the pan where it drips onto the ground ( while the car is being driven) from there , so do not mistake a leaking pan for a simple overfill... btw the cobalt holds empty to full 7 quarts of trans fluid...if you over fill it , not to worry the excess will come out and stop when the correct fill level is achieved

    also of course the book says take it to a and the dealers have teamed up on car repairs so the dealer can make more money by repeat has designed the cobalt to be harder to work on on purpose

    lastly, no need to go hunting down the overflow screw.. it releases the overflow automatically
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    " and the dealers have teamed up on car repairs so the dealer can make more money by repeat has designed the cobalt to be harder to work on on purpose."

    Sounds like most cars on the market nowadays.
  • I have a 2008 cobalt and need to add some tranny fluid and need to find the plug or what ever it is that will let me fill it. Does any one have, or can anyone take a pic. of their engine and put an arrow on it and say "this is the plug!" ? I replaced my radiator and need to top th tranny off.

  • the image is in the link::

    find the fuse box (driver side under the hood) standing in front of the car facing the engine (with the molded plastic shield taken off, (it is the one with the oil cap holding it on).go straight down beside the fuse box toward the transmission and you should be able to feel the cap about 12 to 16 inches down.. the cap maybe about one to 1 and a half inches wide.. it just screws on and off

    the plug is hard to see, you will need to feel around for it, its not hard to find.. make sure the engine is cool also
  • Have had nothing but problems with my 06 cobalt since I got it. One of the problems I am experiencing now is possibly transmission but not sure? Someone suggested it may be... when I am down to 1/8 tank my RPM's start going insane jumping from 2-3-2-3-2 etc and my car jerks as if its going faster then slows down altho the speed isnt really affected. this has now happened 3 times but the 2nd time it happened my car actually stopped. i thought it was acting up so i was tryin to turn into a parking lot and rather then it still driving, my cars speed slowed down and luckily i made it in the driveway where my car stopped and would not move! i turned car off then turned on and it moved about 5 ft and had to do that several times before i could actually get in a parking spot and call my dad to bring me gas then it was fine however made this real loud noise while waiting for gas (fuel pump?). I've had nonstop problems with my gas gauge not reading accurately but before all this i was able to drive on empty no problem.. has anyone had these issues or know what it could possibly be? I've had 5 new fuel sensors put in my car and its still not fixed and all they say is nothing shows up on the scanner. I am in the middle of filing a complaint with CAMVAP in Canada which is like the lemon law. i am waiting for my hearing date to battle it out with GM... Never again do I buy GM!!!
    Please help if you have any advice!
    Thanks! :lemon:
  • hurry before the car looses more value and trade it in.. i love my toyota, matter of fact i have two with no problems at all and do not expect any for at least 150,000 to 300,000 miles.. sounds like your car had major electrical problems or a computer brain problem or maybe carbon build-up on the throttle body ( cheapest fix ).. your car is telling you its about to die and needs to be parked in the woods to die in peace.. if you read my previous posts you will see that what you are experiencing is just a long line of problem leading to engine death.. trade that sucker in before its too late and the engine locks up and you get stiffed with a car payment on a car that no long runs anymore.. if you have to buy a cheap car, buy the toyota yaris.. toyota is good i traded my cobalt in on a camery and liked it so much i bought a tocoma three months later no problems at all on eighter and do not expect any for at least 250,000 miles.. sadly i buried my cobalt at 157,000 miles when it blew all my oil out the tail pipe and locked up forever.. funny thing is is that gm is going bankrupt and has not a clue.. in the short of things, there cars are crap...hey also if the car runs violently when running its probably the ignition control module it sets on the very top of the engine look for white arc burn if thats the problem slap another one on and get your butt to a toyota dealership that very day..if its the module it will run for about a day and burn out again..that indicate your entire electronics are screwed and as i have mentioned before its not something gm techs are trained to fix/care about/they already have your money when you bought the car
  • :lemon: unfortunately i still owe way too much on my car to be able to afford a trade in. i shoulda test drove more cars before settling for this junk. my other choice was a yaris too and im greatly regretting it! I have no idea what im going to do. The worst part is i was only like 12 000kms over being able to demand a buy back thru CAMVAP! I have the extended warranty so thankfully nothing has cost me but once the warranty is out i cant afford to do this cuz ppl dont want to properly fix my car... those are only 2 of the many problems ive had too! speaker has gone and is blown again have to make appt but that is covered... everything under the sun has gone wrong with this car and I HATE IT! :lemon:
  • you may have to take a loss on the car.. when i traded mine in i got absolutly nothing for it.. that was because the motor locked up. but if it still runs , depending on the milage you still should be able to get something. from your post it appears that it is still under warrantee, which is good i would take it to a dealership anyway.. what will happen is this: lets say you own 7,000 on the car. the dealership offers you 5,000.. ok that means the remainder 2,000 will be added to the total price of the new car plus the cobalt will be paid off. they keep the crap cobalt and you drive away in the yaris.. with most standard loans that adds up to $20 per thousand so in that case $2000 will add up to $40 extra a month to pay off the cobalt and pick up the yaris.. when mine died i owed $5400 and could not get a cent for my trade in because the engine locked up which made my new camery payment over a hundred dollars more than what it should have been.. but i waited to long thinking i could just fix it and fix it till it was too late.. trade now before its too late. otherwise you will regret it.. just give it a try and see what you can work out.. if they do not offer you enough for the trade it , you can still drive away in the cobalt..mine on the other hand had to be towed in and i had no choice but to accept what i was offered which was nothing except to add the 5400 to the camry..

    your just gonna have to take a partial loss now, that is unless you want to take a total loss later
  • im going to see what happens after i deal with CAMVAP. problem is i owe jus under 13000 as i got the extended warranty and all that crap and had no money to put down when i got it. ive only had the car almost 2 yrs! problem is if i trade it in and got 8000 not only am i losing out over 4000 but then wont i have 4000 plus whatever i owe on another car like 2 different loans? i pay 248 a month now for my vehicle and money is tight as it is so for me to have 2 loans goin or even have one loan with an extra 50 a month is nearly impossible for me right now. i guess in the meantime i keep my fingers crossed that something good comes from CAMVAP and a miracle happens that my car gets fixed??? lmao wishful thinking eh! :lemon:
  • my grandfather worked for Ford and so I went to a dealer to see about a trade in for a ford but the guy said i would never be able to afford it and best thing would be to wait a couple years for my car to depreciate to equal what id have left owing on my loan.. if that makes sense,,, im not sure if i worded that right
  • na its just one loan not two.. they combine for example the remainder of the balance of the trade in if assuming a loss emm lets say $2000 + the yaris 14,000
    thats would combine into one loan of $16,000 which would be around $360 payment.. well anyway hopefully you can do something before you start walking...

    and reply to post#24.. if you owe less than the car is worth thats good.. if you own more than the car is worth, thats bad..depreciation is always bad unless you are buying rather than selling/trading in..
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I bet you never owned a Cobalt and if you did you probably didn't maintain. The Ecotec's are arguably the best 4-cyclinder available on the market for performance, longevity, and reliability.

    The Ecotec's when introduced took all the Guiness book of World Records away from the Honda Civic. They rule the drag strip as well in stock and pro-stock. There are as many performance parts available for them for anyone who builds and races cars as any other manufacture. A very respected engine.
  • no its not that i didnt maintain it i look after my cars well any problems i have i take in to get looked at. i bought it from the worst possible GM dealer which i didnt fnd out until later... same dealer that apparently was in [non-permissible content removed] before for turning back the odometers so u cant sit and say i dont look after my car when the dealer is known for crap like that and like anyone says a young girl going in alone to a mechanic is trouble since they always try and rip u off. jusr because ecotecs are so "wonderful" doesnt mean they dont have lemons. every make and model has lemons and trust me if you saw the folder if things that have gone wrong with my car you'd probably agree... and for GM to sit and saw its "normal for a gas gauge to fluctuate" is a bunch of BS,,, since when do gauges go up and down so u dont know how much gas is in the tank and if thats so "normal" then I guess its normal for a car to stop and die in the middle of traffic as well????
  • or was the to paperboy_1? cuz he said he had a cobalt as well
  • he was referring to me.........
    i owned a 2005 chevy cobalt. When i bought it, it had 19 original miles on it.. i changed the oil every 3,000 miles, and spark plugs every 30,000 miles..never changed the transmission fluid till it started pouring out on a daily basis.but i guess after about 130,000 i changed the fluid every day.. ie.. it leaked out, so i poured more in.. also i did not break the speed limit very much because i have to pay the tickets/tires/gas and everything plus im not a teenager so i did not abuse my car.
    poncho167 is one of those die hard chevy fans. who will not listen to anyone have a bad opinion of the cars he likes.. the proof is all the crap about the car being better than another car or this or that award and so on..all i know is about is the cobalt i bought and cdn shawty knows about his cobalt that he bought.. all the rewards/hype is just that 'hype' surrounding a car so who cares about that stuff. I am an individual and i base a cars worth on how it preforms with me personaly not how car and driver or whoever rates a car, thats silly. All car company put out there 'we build a good car and buy one because everyone wants one and look at what all the top experts say'.the reality is that those experts do not drive the cars when they have 100,000+ miles on them while still driving 200 miles a day seven days a week to work and back.they drive them when they are new, which i have to say when mine was new i was impressed with it as a 4 cylinder. After i got some miles on it , I was not so impressed. i and shawty want our cars to last a long time, thats why we bought them...i got the gm discount that helped me decide... but anyway, i would have much preferred my cobalt to last longer than 3 years and 157,000 miles.. but it didn't and i can not justify anyone buying one bases on my real world experience.. every time i and shawty have had a breakdown we have make our best efforts to have our cars my case it was a total loss.. i am in my 30's, have done all the required maintainance, always kept good tires and breaks, kept the fluids to the proper levels and was looking forward to paying the car off and not having a car payment at all. For a few years assuming the cobalt held up. Which was what i wanted. But sadly it died and i had to go buy something else, and take a 5400 dollar loss on my crappy cobalt which was what i owed at the time of its death.. i wish i would not have had to trade..
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    What do you mean it died? Was it because you forgot to do some vital maintenance that most cars get at 100,000 miles or if Japanese 50-60,000 miles.
  • whats with ppl making accusations against others about not doing maintenance?? like not all cars or perfect or no one would be on this site so I dont get how ppl can sit and accuse ppl of not doing this or that if you weren't there and didnt drive the car
  • some people think they are right no matter what.. actually i really do not have a clue as to what he is saying. already said i did all the maintenance and keep the car up..but he wants to revisit the maintenance issue like it was me that crapped the car out..which it wasn't its a quality issue on the manufacturing end, or should i say lack of quality on the manufacturing end.. eighter way im not getting into a maintenance discussion since i ment what i said the first time and will not repeat myself.....its a lack of quality on the manufacturing end and thats that...if it was an issue of maintenance i would be getting 150ish miles out of all my cars.. instead i traded my nissan sentra at 230,000 <--still ran good just wanted something nissan pickup truck was still running at 284,000 miles traded that for my cobalt which dies at 157,000..which makes no sence if its me not doing something then i would expect none of my vehicles to break the 200k mark.. its just the usa made vehicles that i owned and them only that did not see 200k+.. ahh yes speaking of usa cavalier died at 189,000 engine threw a rod, and my ford taurus the transmission went out on it at 163,000 both now junk yard items.. on the bright side of things my buddy still has his nissan pickup truck with 290k+ miles on it..still running great for him at 290,000 miles and 22 years old
  • 155K miles you can't really complain. I had 2 Toyota's and they both died around 130K with cooling system problems even after replacing the entire cooling system. Most likely a head gasket problem. But they also had other problems before that.
  • I have a 2006 Cobalt with a standard transmission that I bought 3 months ago. Now and then I have a problem with the shifting from 1st to second. It feels like it wants to stall out in highway traffic. Does anyone else have this problem?
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