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The link below does a good job explaining what a TCC is:
The service advisor didn't seem too happy that I used my Google knowledge to tell him what to do, but oh well. Good luck with your fix mountainboy1!!
Did anyone else get the trans fixed by replacing valvebody and tcc solenoid to verify fix???
Any GM service bulletin numbers would be appreciated
Sometimes it just feels kind of jerky when it shifts, like it's shifting hard. Other times, like the other day for instance, I was driving a constant speed of 50mph. About 4-5 miles into it, it just felt like my engine cut out for a split second or something, and it jerked me really hard. It scared the crap out of me, but then continued driving as if it never happened.
I got a video of the RPMS jumping while I was at a constant speed of 30mph. The mechanic said it's normal.. I KNOW it's not normal. It's something you can feel, almost like it hesitates, or its trying to downshift over and over. It's such a hard problem to explain. I'm becoming very frustrated with it.
Has anyone else had a problem like this? The dealership tried to blame it on my tires, which made no sense. They called saying the mechanics couldn't even drive it that fast because the tires were so bad and that they had told me NUMEROUS times that my tires were terrible. MY TIRES ARE LESS THAN A MONTH OLD.
They are no help!!!!
I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? Has the dealer involved Technical Assistance? If not, I would definitely recommend having a case set up. I would be happy to do so for you. You would just need to email me your complete contact information including mailing address, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and a description of your concerns and experience. I look forward to your response.
GM Customer Service
No concerns regarding the 50MPH symptoms.
I have an appointment with Champion Chevrolet in Johnson City TN at .(423) 218-0328
next Sat. at 8:30am (11-05-11). I have talked with tech Mark Leonard and told him what the issue was and also that I had been talking with other Cobalt owners online that were having the same issue. Mine= 2008 Chev Cobalt, miles 62k I dont have the VIN on me right now. I told Mark that most owners have found that the issue is a TCC valve and cover problem. When the dealers go to order parts to replace it takes extra time to get parts due to new issued replacement parts being sent. Sounds like a defect and as I have found should be covered under the Powertrain Warranty. I am also emailing the GM Customer Service my info to set up a case incase the dealer states its not a problem. Terry Reece--TN
P O Box 304 Elizabethton, TN 37644
2008 Chev Cobalt / 2 dr Vin# 1G1AL18F187278900 Appointment set 11-05-11 at Champion Chevrolet-Johnson City TN (423) 218-0328 8:30am
Tech= Mark Leonard
Miles = 62k
Please help with the Flutter/Shutter Issue
Thank you very much for the information, and please keep us updated on your progress towards resolving this concern. If you have any other questions, please feel free to email Christina.
GM Customer Service
GM Customer Service
1. Fully warm the vehicle and enter the time the shudder occurs.
2. Without releasing the gas pedal, engage the brakes lightly, this will dis-engage the TCC
3. IF the shudder stops, a THEN re-occurs upon releasing the brake pedal, the TCC is at fault.
Cause, "generally" the fit between the Torque Converter shaft and the bearing in the transmission is too wide, often a torque converter fixes the issue, other times it takes BOTH the bearing and the torque converter to remedy the situation.
Early TCC engagements had ONE lock-up speed, this resulted in "hunting" or continuous locking and unlocking of the TCC , newer vehicles have spread the speed of the lock and unlock by several MPH to avoid this.
"INDUSTRY" has an average memory of Seven years before making the same mistake again.
Perhaps the computer on the Cobalt is set too close on this action.
Otherwise the valve body may cause the transmission to shift up and down erratically.
A competent aftermarket Transmission shop can usually correct these issues by changing spring pressures or drilling out fluid passage restrictions.
Look for a High Performance Transmission Shop for this issue.
Another route is to contact GM Customer Service.
Even if a vehicle is OUT-OF-WARRANTY, problems specific to a vehicle are often fixed for free.
Ask your Parts Man for TSB's regarding your vehicle, this may incur a small cost, otherwise look in the back of your owners manual for Service Manuals / TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins]
When asking the parts man for a favor, always bring a bag of Apples or Donuts for bribery
Here's GM's contact info if the former provides no joy.
GM General Motors Corporate Office Headquarters HQ
300 Renaissance Center
Detroit, MI United States
GM Corporate Phone Number: 1-313-556-5000
GM Mailing Address
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
40yr + Wrench
Ignition modules often fail under heat and start up again upon cooling.
If yours just quits and restarts, I suspect fuel flow problems, however with your lighting issues, I do wonder.
If the engine shudders prior to stalling, I suspect a TCC [Torque Converter Clutch] issue, see previous post
Frequent Lamp failure usually occurs from one of four issues.
an alternator is a 3-phase generator, it can show full voltage when lightly loaded yet drop drastically when fully loaded, one or two of the phases may be faulty.
Operate the fan on full, lights on bright, AC on, wipers, rear defroster EVERYTHING at one time,,, THEN check the voltage, should be no less than 13.1~
Low Voltage causes High Amps, High Amps causes excess Heat.
Also the battery cable to the starter & load centers is now copper coated aluminum, the one going to the starter/load center may expand and lose partial contact, usually in Hot weather, to fix, install new lug [soldered on].
2. "Poor Grounding"
Vehicles with front end wreck damage often have the ground connections on top of painted metal, on high demand times, these heat up ;and fail, temporarily.
Very Hard to troubleshoot, look for new paint under ground lugs, rust, old paint, partially broken wires etc, also look for signs of heating in and under the fuse/breaker box.
You can run an alternative ground wiresdirectly to the battery for lighting to test..
Also the battery grounds to several points.
The Chassis, usually on the firewall.
The Engine Block, usually near the battery to save wire, check for corrosion, black buildup indicates long term failure & heat causing a non-conductive coating..
Modern battery cables are copper coated aluminum, these can heat up and lose partial contact when hot.
Colors that cause contact failures to look for are;
3. "Invisible Corrosion"
A term I coined regarding any failure to transmit voltage with no obvious reason.
Clean-Up shops spray Silicone Tire Shine all over the engine, Silicone is an enemy of very low voltage connections. A sharp eye can sometimes see the shiny and sometimes amber coating on connections.
New vehicles have "weather-pack" proof connections, Silicone can penetrate these and wreak havoc.
The fix, using a wire toothbrush, abrade and clean with Electra-Clean, top off with an electrical conductivity spray like CRC 2-26 or 5-56
READ THE DIRECTIONS AND ALLOW THE CRC TO DRY FULLY !!
On very low voltage connections, a simple skint place in the wire can cause corrosion & faillure. While working on a Roadmaster the Air Temp Sensor showed bad, a new one did not fix it.
A close inspection of the wire showed a very tiny break in the insulation, the copper wire was green causing the failure of the 5v device.
Electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire surface, not the inside, this is why a small bit of corrosion on an otherwise solid connection can fail.
The signal voltages to your engine components can vary as low as 3.0vdc is why I made this mention.
4. High Voltage,
a seldom problem however the voltage regulator in the alternator can go bad sending high voltage to components. The battery voltage indicator should indicate this but only during high engine speeds, usually while you're looking at the road. At idle it may show correct voltage, 14.0~
1 Low Voltage, most likely culprit
2. Poor Grounds next
3. Invisible Corrosion
4. High Voltage
Fixing cars is a tedious and often maddening task, I feel for your wrench, however FAIL NOT to bite the bullet and take it to a reputable dealer before spending good money after bad..
I'm so sorry to be so wordy however this issue is multifaceted and required a more complete explanation.
Also note that GM Cust Ser is answering many of these postings, perhaps they'll institute a TSB [Technical Service Bulletin] for this issue.
Note, TSB's are unlike "Recalls" where the mfg contacts YOU.
YOU must contact THEM with a complaint to get resolution.
Also, depending upon the dealer/service writer, you may have to be aware of a TSB regarding your issue to force their hand.
GM Customer Service
The cobalt is so flawed; the entire car should be a recall. The only reason they haven't done that is because they'd go bankrupt. The Cobalts for the first few years AT LEAST are a disgrace to the GM fleet. What a LEMON! I'm done wasting money on a chevy -- push pull or drag sale for a 6.5 yr old car is pretty bad! the only way to get a penny back for it. :mad:
My car experiences hestitation and stalling with jumping RPMs several times daily. The power steering (which was recalled two years ago), just got replaced but the Chevy dealership clearly did not pick up on the engine/transmition/??????? problem.
I was concerned before, but after reading hundreds of the same complaints by other Cobalt owners, I am literally terrified to get back behind the wheel of my 2008 Chevy.
The fact that there ARE SO MANY complaints - serious, safety complaints - about this vehicle, and it is still allowed on the road is appalling. What is MORE SHOCKING is that General Motors and Chevrolet are fully aware of this issue and are failing to do anything about it.
I am disgusted, fearful, angry, and utterly beside myself.
Has ANYONE been able to CLEARLY define what the problem is with the stalling/jumping engine and RPM issue?! It seems like there are dozens of theories in this forum, but I have not found a success story...
Looks like I'll be getting rid of this car ASAP and will hope that it goes straight to the JUNK YARD!!!!!!!!
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
Has your stepfather had the chance to contact GM of Canada? They provide customer service for our Canadian owners and can be reached at 800-263-3777 (Hours: M-F 7:30am - 11:30pm, Sat 7:30am - 6:00 EST).
Hopefully everything will be sorted out soon!
GM Customer Service
Thanks in advance for your input
When accelerating from a complete stop, the car starts jerking/shaking from 1st to 2nd. I have noticed that it does more so when there is additional weight in the vehicle (i.e. 3 average size adults, rater than just the driver only).
When this happens the whole car shakes and rattles. It doesn't seem to matter what speed the clutch is released/feathered. I have also experimented with different shift patterns and RPM ranges, only minor changes if any? It feels as though the clutch is being 'dumped' in a low RPM, but just enough to keep the car from dying. From a bystander's view it looks as though the driver is first learning to drive.
I am not aware of any other mechanical issues. Also, just to note this doesn't occur when the car is accelerating from a rolling start. Only when there is the initial force to overcome. As I stated it is amplified by extra weight. I do not experience this in any other gears.
I thank you in advanced for your help and I pray (literally) that this doesn't mean I need a new clutch or transmission.
This is a power train issue and is covered under 100k warranty but GM will fix due to faulty issue. Do not pay for this fix. Keep smiling!!!!
Only post #36 come slight close to what I am experiencing. And I believe no one ever answered.
I'm really sorry to hear about this issue you are having. Could you please send us an email to [email protected] In the email please provide us your name, address, phone number, vehicle identification number, and current mileage.
GM Customer Care
If you would like for us to follow up on your visits to your dealership regarding the transmission concerns you're having on your Cobalt, please email us at [email protected] with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).
Sarah (Assisting Amber)
GM Customer Care
Well, looks like this is a common problem for Chevrolet Cobalts. I have the same problem with my 2010 Cobalt Vin # 1G1AD5F56A7167702. It is now 68K miles but it started with the revolutions jumping up and down when driving between 35 and 40 MPH more than a year ago. It was probably 58K miles by then. I took the car to Tires Plus for a checkup and they didn’t know what he problem was since no lights or codes were on showing any problem. They suggested to clean the injectors and I did without improving the problem. A few weeks ago I took the car to the Chevrolet Starling Dealer in Kissimmee, FL because the “engine light “ was on so I thought that was the revolutions problem showing up.
They said the Code that showed up was PO300 misfire detected and PO301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected. So they repaired the cylinder, the exhausted valves, installed new head gasket . The warranty covered the repair. As soon as I got off the dealer the revolutions started shifting up and down again, so that was not related with the engine light on. I asked for another appointment and they said that it could be electrical or the transmission but I needed to pay either check up because no light is on to go under warranty. So here I am, with a car not driving well and no way to repair until another light comes up.
I’m very disappointed with the car, for sure, will never buy a Chevrolet again and would not recommend to anyone. Maybe they are good on trucks but not in cars. The Chevrolet should make a recall if this is happening so often in this model. Not fair that we paid for a good car and we got it with fabric defects.
If someone in Chevrolet can help before the warranty expires, would appreciate, so at least I can sell it in good shape and not pass the lemon to another person.
Well we have been waiting since September 29th to get the worked completed, today is Oct, 25, 2017. I do not understand how the dealership works, is it not first customer in first customer out ?? I was never informed by the service Dept as to the status of our repairs, I would wait for the car for a week expecting it repaired only to finally chase personnel down and find out A. the car was basically sitting in the same place, nothing had been done to it and B. I have been promised the car by staff on some many occasions and it has never happened.
Car is SUPPOSED to be fixed today, Dealer did supply a rental (which we needed for my wife's medical appt's, she is not well or mobile) which we had to return after 7 days because we have not been able to afford the $32 daily insurance.
This my first experience of a major default/breakdown of any car ever and I must say I find the Dealer Ship Service, how can I put this ?? Terrible is not strong enough a word, absolutely HORRIBLE.
We are very sad and disappointed and feel we cannot trust Chevrolet quality again to ever purchase another one.
Once your repair is done, I hope you can come back and tell us how the car is running.
The worse part was hearing "he hasn't found the problem yet". I find it very hard to believe it would take a mechanic putting in 40 hrs a week 3 months to find the problem. Do not misunderstand me, I believe it was very difficult to diagnose the problem and I am happy that they actually EVER found the problem !!It seems a lot of people with the same car in my position were not so lucky. They paid and they still have the problem.
This was a $2,300 lesson for me to learn, I am not a vindictive person. There are caring,dedicated people at the GM Dealership I dealt with, but as a whole the dealership functioned about as efficiently as a square wheel. I do not expect GM to drop $2,300 in my lap but would I ever buy another GM vehicle or recommend one to a close friend or family member ?? you are joking right ??
Sometimes life's lessons have to be learned the hard way. Consumers vote with their dollars. You got me for $2,300 GM. I won't be back