I finally made a service appointment today for Wed 9/24/11. I made the service manager ride in the car with me so we could duplicate the problem together and discuss probable causes and solutions. Remember, the dealership replaced the torque convertor already and that didn't fix the problem. I'm at 71,000 and looking to use the 5yr / 100k powertrain warrantly to get it fixed. I told the service manager that the valve body most likely needs to be replaced if it cannot be cleaned OR the solenoid on the overdrive gear needs to be replaced. I'll keep everyone posted on the results.
Dropped my 2008 Cobalt off on Wedneday and they are replacing the valve body as I requested. The car should be ready by this Friday. There is a new updated valve body that the dealer had to wait for from Chevrolet. I guess someone at Chevrolet must know about the fluttering problem if there is a new updated valve body part. Advice to Chevrolet...put a recall out there to fix this problem because it does cause handling problems and definitely compromises safety. The fix is being covered under the 5yr/100,000 warranty....71,500 miles.
Great information!!!! I know I have been searching for at least 4 months to try to find out what the problem is. It also sounds like Chevrolet is listening and will respond soon with a letter to inform all 2008 Colbalt owners of this defect. Please let me know if you get the car back Friday and if this takes care of that flutter. I am getting very annoyed with going down the street looking like I am pumping the gas back and forth at 25 to 30MPH. Thank you for the information. I will contact my dealer after I hear back from you and your valve body fix. Sincerely--mountainboy1@aol.com
I got it back tonight and it drives fine. From the repair order: The "TCC shutter" problem was from the "TCC bore scored causing TCC valve to stick; replaced valve body and reassembled". There is a TCC solenoid inside the bore that wasn't operating properly. If you search "TCC shutter transmission" on Google, more information is available. So, for everyone else trying to describe the problem to a service advisor say "TCC flutter or shutter" and that you want the valve body replaced.
I have a neighbor with the flutter problem also, started at 44k miles, no codes and there 70% of the time, Did anyone else get the trans fixed by replacing valvebody and tcc solenoid to verify fix??? Any GM service bulletin numbers would be appreciated
I am glad to hear that this may have fixed the flutter problem. Were you able to get this fix using your powertrain warranty? Please let me know and I am also sure that there are others wondering as well. Thank You--- Mountainboy1@aol.com
I have a 2008 Chevrolet Cobalt with an automatic transmission. I've had it for about a month and a half. There are around 79k miles on it. I have taken it to the dealership numerous times regarding a problem that I first thought was an intermittent shifting problem. The first time, they replaced and reprogrammed the transmission control module, yet I still have had the problem.
Sometimes it just feels kind of jerky when it shifts, like it's shifting hard. Other times, like the other day for instance, I was driving a constant speed of 50mph. About 4-5 miles into it, it just felt like my engine cut out for a split second or something, and it jerked me really hard. It scared the crap out of me, but then continued driving as if it never happened.
I got a video of the RPMS jumping while I was at a constant speed of 30mph. The mechanic said it's normal.. I KNOW it's not normal. It's something you can feel, almost like it hesitates, or its trying to downshift over and over. It's such a hard problem to explain. I'm becoming very frustrated with it.
Has anyone else had a problem like this? The dealership tried to blame it on my tires, which made no sense. They called saying the mechanics couldn't even drive it that fast because the tires were so bad and that they had told me NUMEROUS times that my tires were terrible. MY TIRES ARE LESS THAN A MONTH OLD.
ameliaannne, I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? Has the dealer involved Technical Assistance? If not, I would definitely recommend having a case set up. I would be happy to do so for you. You would just need to email me your complete contact information including mailing address, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and a description of your concerns and experience. I look forward to your response. Christina GM Customer Service
I do have a similar sensation regarding the RPM's jumping at 30 mph -though not as harsh as you describe your symptoms. I own a 2008 HHR with Identical powertrain as a Cobalt. If the speed is locked in around 30 MPH for a couple of miles it feels like I am rocking gently in my seat while driving or as if the torque converter wants to engage. i just learned to live with it and back off on the accelerator and re-adjust my speed. Again, I've learned to live with that issue and have not taken it to the dealer.
Good Morning GM Customer Service, I have an appointment with Champion Chevrolet in Johnson City TN at .(423) 218-0328 next Sat. at 8:30am (11-05-11). I have talked with tech Mark Leonard and told him what the issue was and also that I had been talking with other Cobalt owners online that were having the same issue. Mine= 2008 Chev Cobalt, miles 62k I dont have the VIN on me right now. I told Mark that most owners have found that the issue is a TCC valve and cover problem. When the dealers go to order parts to replace it takes extra time to get parts due to new issued replacement parts being sent. Sounds like a defect and as I have found should be covered under the Powertrain Warranty. I am also emailing the GM Customer Service my info to set up a case incase the dealer states its not a problem. Terry Reece--TN
Terry V Reece / Mountainboy1@aol.com P O Box 304 Elizabethton, TN 37644 2008 Chev Cobalt / 2 dr Vin# 1G1AL18F187278900 Appointment set 11-05-11 at Champion Chevrolet-Johnson City TN (423) 218-0328 8:30am Tech= Mark Leonard Miles = 62k
Please help with the Flutter/Shutter Issue TCC Valve.
my 2005 cobolt stall when im stopped. im at a redlight and it stalls when stopped. the idle falls below one half and it dies. sometimes when i accellerate and it goes to shift (automatic) it stalls too
Thank you very much for the information, and please keep us updated on your progress towards resolving this concern. If you have any other questions, please feel free to email Christina.
not only does my 2005 cobolt stall frequently but the headlights and turnsignal lights burn out constantly. my mechanic says there is an electrical problem but he can't pin point it...any ideas. my new bulbs last from a week to a day.
The Torque Converter Clutch [TCC] "Lock-up" sequence can cause problems, to test if the TCC is the problem try this.
1. Fully warm the vehicle and enter the time the shudder occurs. 2. Without releasing the gas pedal, engage the brakes lightly, this will dis-engage the TCC 3. IF the shudder stops, a THEN re-occurs upon releasing the brake pedal, the TCC is at fault.
Cause, "generally" the fit between the Torque Converter shaft and the bearing in the transmission is too wide, often a torque converter fixes the issue, other times it takes BOTH the bearing and the torque converter to remedy the situation.
Early TCC engagements had ONE lock-up speed, this resulted in "hunting" or continuous locking and unlocking of the TCC , newer vehicles have spread the speed of the lock and unlock by several MPH to avoid this.
"INDUSTRY" has an average memory of Seven years before making the same mistake again. Perhaps the computer on the Cobalt is set too close on this action.
Otherwise the valve body may cause the transmission to shift up and down erratically.
A competent aftermarket Transmission shop can usually correct these issues by changing spring pressures or drilling out fluid passage restrictions. Look for a High Performance Transmission Shop for this issue.
Another route is to contact GM Customer Service. Even if a vehicle is OUT-OF-WARRANTY, problems specific to a vehicle are often fixed for free.
Ask your Parts Man for TSB's regarding your vehicle, this may incur a small cost, otherwise look in the back of your owners manual for Service Manuals / TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins] When asking the parts man for a favor, always bring a bag of Apples or Donuts for bribery
Here's GM's contact info if the former provides no joy.
GM General Motors Corporate Office Headquarters HQ 300 Renaissance Center Detroit, MI United States 48265 GM Corporate Phone Number: 1-313-556-5000
GM Mailing Address P.O. Box 33170 Detroit, MI 48232-5170
Does the engine shudder prior to stalling, or just quit ?
Ignition modules often fail under heat and start up again upon cooling. If yours just quits and restarts, I suspect fuel flow problems, however with your lighting issues, I do wonder. If the engine shudders prior to stalling, I suspect a TCC [Torque Converter Clutch] issue, see previous post
Frequent Lamp failure usually occurs from one of four issues.
1. "Low-Voltage" an alternator is a 3-phase generator, it can show full voltage when lightly loaded yet drop drastically when fully loaded, one or two of the phases may be faulty. Test: Operate the fan on full, lights on bright, AC on, wipers, rear defroster EVERYTHING at one time,,, THEN check the voltage, should be no less than 13.1~ Low Voltage causes High Amps, High Amps causes excess Heat. Also the battery cable to the starter & load centers is now copper coated aluminum, the one going to the starter/load center may expand and lose partial contact, usually in Hot weather, to fix, install new lug [soldered on].
2. "Poor Grounding" Vehicles with front end wreck damage often have the ground connections on top of painted metal, on high demand times, these heat up ;and fail, temporarily. Very Hard to troubleshoot, look for new paint under ground lugs, rust, old paint, partially broken wires etc, also look for signs of heating in and under the fuse/breaker box. You can run an alternative ground wiresdirectly to the battery for lighting to test.. Also the battery grounds to several points. The Chassis, usually on the firewall. The Engine Block, usually near the battery to save wire, check for corrosion, black buildup indicates long term failure & heat causing a non-conductive coating.. Modern battery cables are copper coated aluminum, these can heat up and lose partial contact when hot. Colors that cause contact failures to look for are; Green Blue Black Amber Rust
3. "Invisible Corrosion" A term I coined regarding any failure to transmit voltage with no obvious reason. Clean-Up shops spray Silicone Tire Shine all over the engine, Silicone is an enemy of very low voltage connections. A sharp eye can sometimes see the shiny and sometimes amber coating on connections. New vehicles have "weather-pack" proof connections, Silicone can penetrate these and wreak havoc.
The fix, using a wire toothbrush, abrade and clean with Electra-Clean, top off with an electrical conductivity spray like CRC 2-26 or 5-56 READ THE DIRECTIONS AND ALLOW THE CRC TO DRY FULLY !!
On very low voltage connections, a simple skint place in the wire can cause corrosion & faillure. While working on a Roadmaster the Air Temp Sensor showed bad, a new one did not fix it. A close inspection of the wire showed a very tiny break in the insulation, the copper wire was green causing the failure of the 5v device. Electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire surface, not the inside, this is why a small bit of corrosion on an otherwise solid connection can fail.
The signal voltages to your engine components can vary as low as 3.0vdc is why I made this mention.
4. High Voltage, a seldom problem however the voltage regulator in the alternator can go bad sending high voltage to components. The battery voltage indicator should indicate this but only during high engine speeds, usually while you're looking at the road. At idle it may show correct voltage, 14.0~
Bottom Line 1 Low Voltage, most likely culprit 2. Poor Grounds next 3. Invisible Corrosion 4. High Voltage
Fixing cars is a tedious and often maddening task, I feel for your wrench, however FAIL NOT to bite the bullet and take it to a reputable dealer before spending good money after bad..
I'm so sorry to be so wordy however this issue is multifaceted and required a more complete explanation.
Also note that GM Cust Ser is answering many of these postings, perhaps they'll institute a TSB [Technical Service Bulletin] for this issue.
Note, TSB's are unlike "Recalls" where the mfg contacts YOU. YOU must contact THEM with a complaint to get resolution. Also, depending upon the dealer/service writer, you may have to be aware of a TSB regarding your issue to force their hand.
what a load of crap! The cobalt is so flawed; the entire car should be a recall. The only reason they haven't done that is because they'd go bankrupt. The Cobalts for the first few years AT LEAST are a disgrace to the GM fleet. What a LEMON! I'm done wasting money on a chevy -- push pull or drag sale for a 6.5 yr old car is pretty bad! the only way to get a penny back for it. :mad:
I own a 2008 Cobal 4dr sedan and have experienced many of the same issues posted in this forum... and I've only owned it for 3 months! Now I know why the previous owners got rid of it!!!
My car experiences hestitation and stalling with jumping RPMs several times daily. The power steering (which was recalled two years ago), just got replaced but the Chevy dealership clearly did not pick up on the engine/transmition/??????? problem.
I was concerned before, but after reading hundreds of the same complaints by other Cobalt owners, I am literally terrified to get back behind the wheel of my 2008 Chevy.
The fact that there ARE SO MANY complaints - serious, safety complaints - about this vehicle, and it is still allowed on the road is appalling. What is MORE SHOCKING is that General Motors and Chevrolet are fully aware of this issue and are failing to do anything about it.
I am disgusted, fearful, angry, and utterly beside myself.
Has ANYONE been able to CLEARLY define what the problem is with the stalling/jumping engine and RPM issue?! It seems like there are dozens of theories in this forum, but I have not found a success story...
Looks like I'll be getting rid of this car ASAP and will hope that it goes straight to the JUNK YARD!!!!!!!!
I have found resolution to my problem. I took my 2008 to the Dealership and told them that I had a TCC flutter issue and I needed them to fix it. The Tech looked at me and by expression knew what I was talking about. This fix is also covered under the 100k mile powertrain warranty. Since it was covered under warranty they even opted for me a rental car since it was a covered issue. The fix takes a few days for they have to pull transmission to get to the TCC Valve. This was done back in December and I have not had the same issue so I am taking it is now fixed. There are GM bullentins also about this issue but Chevrolet has not did a recall. Hope this helps.
My step father Lawrence who lives in Manitoba, was driving down the road outside Winnipeg. When he went to apply his brakes he said there was nothing there... no brakes nothing.. total failure. Thankfully, Lawrence had the place of mind to use his AT to brake the vehicle. He geared down until the Colbalt 2008 vehicle came to a stop. Realizing he had missed his turn, he backed down the road approximately 150 feet or so. To his surprise the brakes started working again, as if nothing had happened before. When he got to his destination he later returned to the car only to find he could NOT get his key out of the steering column. He tried for two hours. As well he fopund that the COLBALT 2008 electrical system was stone dead ... nothing...not a bit of juice. Two hours later his nephew offered to try to get the key out. He worked at it and discovered he needed to push a button located under the steering column to remove the key. Meanwhile, the electricity returned to the car. Lawrence took the car into be checked. They removed the wheels to check the brake pads and found they were in mint condition. As well, the battery was fully charged and their was nothing wrong with the car's mechanical side anywhere. Two mechanics worked on the car for three hours. Is anyone else having these kinds if experiences with their 2008 Colbalt or 2008 Cavalier because Lawrence is now "scared to death" to drive the car anywhere. GM is telling his dealer they've never heard of these problems. We need to find an answer before someone is killed in a COLBALT 2008 or CAVALIER 2008.
Has your stepfather had the chance to contact GM of Canada? They provide customer service for our Canadian owners and can be reached at 800-263-3777 (Hours: M-F 7:30am - 11:30pm, Sat 7:30am - 6:00 EST).
Hopefully everything will be sorted out soon! Take care, Sarah GM Customer Service
OK - First off a Cobalt or any GM vehicle except for a truck in my opinion can't go 155,000 miles without a number of things going wrong. As a paper delivery guy you also drive in town making MANY stops and starts and excessive brake wear would be a natural. If I were delivering papers I'd buy a year or two used base model economy car - Accent, Cobalt, Civic, Yaris, Corolla, etc with about 20k miles on it to avoid immediate depreciation and drive it to about 100k miles then turn it in for another used car with low mileage. You need something that is dependable if you deliver papers. I'm not crazy about Consumers Union and their bias toward Japanese cars but their reliability is better than most domestic cars. Dump your Cobalt before you waste any more money and frustration on a car that isn't worth much of anything. Most cars will go 100k miles without a lot of repairs. Dump them after that.
I Read all the trans shutter comments and my car is under warranty, so I took it in to the dealer last week and explained the scenario, they changed torque converter and valve body, turbine shaft and support, I just picked it up an hour ago and made it 15 miles, Its still doing it and maybe worse. Now what? Ill be making the call in a few. We'll see what happens.
My 2008 Cobalt is in the shop again. The previous TCC valve fix only lasted for 15,000 miles. The tranny is fluttering between 3rd and 4th gear AGAIN for the last 15,000 or so miles. Again, I had difficulty with the service advisor repeating the issue. I had to grab the previous service advisor and ride shot gun to explain how and when the tranny acts up. Between 30 - 45 mph under no acceleration, the fluttering happens. The tachometer will jump up and down bucking the car as the engine shifts repeatedly from 3rd to 4th gear. Irritating! The dealership is ordering a new valve body and torque converter while I drive a new Impala loaner car. I'm on day 5 and the car is not expected to be fixed until Tuesday or Wednesday next week so another 4 days. This will be the second torque converter but first valve body. The valve body is the key. I had to get it into the shop before the 100k warranty expired. This problem is hard to duplicate if the mechanic has never experienced this problem. Don't be shy demanding to ride shot gun with the service advisor. My dealer is pretty good with me. They know I can be a a**hole if pushed too far. I had the ignition cylinder replaced too. I've had problems either taking the key out or putting the key in and attempting to turn on the car. The recall came in the mail and I took care of it while the tranny was being worked on. Good Luck
My Cobalt has 140,000 miles and I recently experienced a horrible shuddering sound. It seems as if it isn't shifting gears. I see others have experienced some similar issues. Is there a solution? How much do the repairs run?
I have the same problem with flutter at low speed and it lurches forward. Service guys act like this is not a Cobalt problem oh but it is because several people have stated the same issue. My car is under warranty until some time in June I hope they figure it out or I will be there every other day. I also have noticed there is a electrical issue with this car. Blinkers and clickers don't work any more nor do the front speakers. I was told to replace the front driver side speaker and all problems will be resolved. Now if they can just figure out what is up with the transmission fluttering and lurching also recently not shifting into the last gear so my rpms are real high.
I own a 2006 Cobalt LS, coupe, 5 speed manual, with 75,000 miles. Recently I have been experiencing what I believe to be a transmission/clutch issue. I am a mature adult driver (no hot rodding), however I am the second owner of this vehicle. I am very competent mechanically and have owned many manual trans vehicles, including multiple GM 5 speeds. The following is the issue I am currently experiencing:
When accelerating from a complete stop, the car starts jerking/shaking from 1st to 2nd. I have noticed that it does more so when there is additional weight in the vehicle (i.e. 3 average size adults, rater than just the driver only).
When this happens the whole car shakes and rattles. It doesn't seem to matter what speed the clutch is released/feathered. I have also experimented with different shift patterns and RPM ranges, only minor changes if any? It feels as though the clutch is being 'dumped' in a low RPM, but just enough to keep the car from dying. From a bystander's view it looks as though the driver is first learning to drive.
I am not aware of any other mechanical issues. Also, just to note this doesn't occur when the car is accelerating from a rolling start. Only when there is the initial force to overcome. As I stated it is amplified by extra weight. I do not experience this in any other gears.
I thank you in advanced for your help and I pray (literally) that this doesn't mean I need a new clutch or transmission.
Do replace the driver side speaker and that will fix that issue. On the other please read the rest of my posts so you know what to tell the tech when you take your Cobalt back to the service dept. This is a power train issue that should be covered under warranty up to 100k miles. I will also look back at post to find the correct verbage so you know. Do not pay anything for this is a GM problem that I discovered and they will not acknowledge. I will get back to you. Keep the faith!!! I had mine fixed over a year ago after much mcuh research!!
The Torque Converter Clutch [TCC] "Lock-up" sequence can cause problems, to test if the TCC is the problem try this. This is a power train issue and is covered under 100k warranty but GM will fix due to faulty issue. Do not pay for this fix. Keep smiling!!!!
Yes, I have read every post on here. But as far as I know there are no TCC on a manual trans. I may be wrong but can't find any resources that say it does.
Only post #36 come slight close to what I am experiencing. And I believe no one ever answered.
I'm really sorry to hear about this issue you are having. Could you please send us an email to socialmedia@gm.com. In the email please provide us your name, address, phone number, vehicle identification number, and current mileage.
mine is doing it at 48,000! my cavalier started that at 215,000, so i thought, what the heck the cobalt will be good too! boy was i wrong, the cobalts are junk and the service people lie and say nothing wrong or its a cobalt thing! lemon laws!
If you would like for us to follow up on your visits to your dealership regarding the transmission concerns you're having on your Cobalt, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).
I have the same issue about my 05 cobalt shuttering between 3-4 and it runs 3-4 rpms if I'm going 40-50 constantly what should I do? I have 111000 miles on it
My tranny repair was covered under the 5y/100k power train warranty. If you have ongoing records with your dealership, they may still cover the valve replacement inside the tranny. My dealership worked on my tranny 3 times before they got it right.
Well, looks like this is a common problem for Chevrolet Cobalts. I have the same problem with my 2010 Cobalt Vin # 1G1AD5F56A7167702. It is now 68K miles but it started with the revolutions jumping up and down when driving between 35 and 40 MPH more than a year ago. It was probably 58K miles by then. I took the car to Tires Plus for a checkup and they didn’t know what he problem was since no lights or codes were on showing any problem. They suggested to clean the injectors and I did without improving the problem. A few weeks ago I took the car to the Chevrolet Starling Dealer in Kissimmee, FL because the “engine light “ was on so I thought that was the revolutions problem showing up.
They said the Code that showed up was PO300 misfire detected and PO301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected. So they repaired the cylinder, the exhausted valves, installed new head gasket . The warranty covered the repair. As soon as I got off the dealer the revolutions started shifting up and down again, so that was not related with the engine light on. I asked for another appointment and they said that it could be electrical or the transmission but I needed to pay either check up because no light is on to go under warranty. So here I am, with a car not driving well and no way to repair until another light comes up.
I’m very disappointed with the car, for sure, will never buy a Chevrolet again and would not recommend to anyone. Maybe they are good on trucks but not in cars. The Chevrolet should make a recall if this is happening so often in this model. Not fair that we paid for a good car and we got it with fabric defects.
If someone in Chevrolet can help before the warranty expires, would appreciate, so at least I can sell it in good shape and not pass the lemon to another person.
Did you ever get the problem resolved? Dealership is giving me the run around. Saying thsts just how they shift and i should try to get throught the shift points faster. Hard to do if speed limit is 35,45 and at 55. Guess i can be a granpa driver just at 30 ,40 or 50.
Has anyone had their Cobalt transmission problem fixed? I have been taking mine to different dealers theing to get mine fixed. I hear the same thing from them, they cant find the problem and have never heard of a problem with the Cobalt. I bought an older, more reliable car becuase i dont feel the Cobalt is safe at all.
Hey all I was wondering if anyone can tell me what's up with my 2006 colbalt. I've had people look at it and Noone is sure what's wrong. It likes to jerk going down the road. No leaks or anything like that. It don't do it all the time. Some days it don't do it at all. Other days might jerk once or twice. Then some days jerk alot. I don't get it. Any ideas?
My cobalt has had these issues as well. I have noticed the position of the steering wheel determains the issue. Try moving your steering wheel and see if the problem is resolved.
We own a 2010 Chevrolet Cobalt which we purchased NEW from a GM Dealer. Car was problem free until the transmission started shifting erraticly from 1st to 2nd gear, most times from a stop the car would rev to 5000-6000 RPM then jump into next gear with a hard thud, very upsetting. Our first visit to the dealership to have this problem fixed was on July, 31, 2017. The Cobalt car has been in the dealership probably more five times over the last couple of months, it basically took weeks to find the problem, then on Sept 29, 2017 we were told the problem had been found, cost would be $1,800 would we like the parts ordered and to proceed with the repair. Well we were over a barrel weren't we ? We are seniors living on a fixed income and cannot afford a new car so we said yes Well we have been waiting since September 29th to get the worked completed, today is Oct, 25, 2017. I do not understand how the dealership works, is it not first customer in first customer out ?? I was never informed by the service Dept as to the status of our repairs, I would wait for the car for a week expecting it repaired only to finally chase personnel down and find out A. the car was basically sitting in the same place, nothing had been done to it and B. I have been promised the car by staff on some many occasions and it has never happened. Car is SUPPOSED to be fixed today, Dealer did supply a rental (which we needed for my wife's medical appt's, she is not well or mobile) which we had to return after 7 days because we have not been able to afford the $32 daily insurance. This my first experience of a major default/breakdown of any car ever and I must say I find the Dealer Ship Service, how can I put this ?? Terrible is not strong enough a word, absolutely HORRIBLE. We are very sad and disappointed and feel we cannot trust Chevrolet quality again to ever purchase another one.
Did they say it was a "parts not in yet" issue? I'm thinking that has to be the holdup. Transmission parts generally aren't going to be something that are sitting on a shelf like oil filters, belts, spark plugs or anything else that relates to non-major repairs. Might be a bad analogy, but you might have a spare appliance light bulb around in case the light blows out in your electric oven, but you're likely going to wait and order a part if the heating element goes bad. No sense is spending money on a more expensive part until you need it. But when you do need it, it might have to be ordered.
Once your repair is done, I hope you can come back and tell us how the car is running.
All transmission spares required were ordered on Sept 29th and I am assuming received a couple days later. Problem appeared to be that dealership was working on cars that came in long after mine while mine sat in the corner. Car went in first time July 17 and I received it today Oct, 25th. 3 months to fix. The worse part was hearing "he hasn't found the problem yet". I find it very hard to believe it would take a mechanic putting in 40 hrs a week 3 months to find the problem. Do not misunderstand me, I believe it was very difficult to diagnose the problem and I am happy that they actually EVER found the problem !!It seems a lot of people with the same car in my position were not so lucky. They paid and they still have the problem. This was a $2,300 lesson for me to learn, I am not a vindictive person. There are caring,dedicated people at the GM Dealership I dealt with, but as a whole the dealership functioned about as efficiently as a square wheel. I do not expect GM to drop $2,300 in my lap but would I ever buy another GM vehicle or recommend one to a close friend or family member ?? you are joking right ?? Sometimes life's lessons have to be learned the hard way. Consumers vote with their dollars. You got me for $2,300 GM. I won't be back
Comments
The link below does a good job explaining what a TCC is:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/a/aa061701a.htm
The service advisor didn't seem too happy that I used my Google knowledge to tell him what to do, but oh well. Good luck with your fix mountainboy1!!
Did anyone else get the trans fixed by replacing valvebody and tcc solenoid to verify fix???
Any GM service bulletin numbers would be appreciated
Mountainboy1@aol.com
Sometimes it just feels kind of jerky when it shifts, like it's shifting hard. Other times, like the other day for instance, I was driving a constant speed of 50mph. About 4-5 miles into it, it just felt like my engine cut out for a split second or something, and it jerked me really hard. It scared the crap out of me, but then continued driving as if it never happened.
I got a video of the RPMS jumping while I was at a constant speed of 30mph. The mechanic said it's normal.. I KNOW it's not normal. It's something you can feel, almost like it hesitates, or its trying to downshift over and over. It's such a hard problem to explain.
Has anyone else had a problem like this? The dealership tried to blame it on my tires, which made no sense. They called saying the mechanics couldn't even drive it that fast because the tires were so bad and that they had told me NUMEROUS times that my tires were terrible. MY TIRES ARE LESS THAN A MONTH OLD.
They are no help!!!!
I apologize for your frustrations. Have you spoke with GM Customer Assistance? Has the dealer involved Technical Assistance? If not, I would definitely recommend having a case set up. I would be happy to do so for you. You would just need to email me your complete contact information including mailing address, VIN, current mileage, involved dealer, and a description of your concerns and experience. I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
No concerns regarding the 50MPH symptoms.
I have an appointment with Champion Chevrolet in Johnson City TN at .(423) 218-0328
next Sat. at 8:30am (11-05-11). I have talked with tech Mark Leonard and told him what the issue was and also that I had been talking with other Cobalt owners online that were having the same issue. Mine= 2008 Chev Cobalt, miles 62k I dont have the VIN on me right now. I told Mark that most owners have found that the issue is a TCC valve and cover problem. When the dealers go to order parts to replace it takes extra time to get parts due to new issued replacement parts being sent. Sounds like a defect and as I have found should be covered under the Powertrain Warranty. I am also emailing the GM Customer Service my info to set up a case incase the dealer states its not a problem. Terry Reece--TN
P O Box 304 Elizabethton, TN 37644
2008 Chev Cobalt / 2 dr Vin# 1G1AL18F187278900 Appointment set 11-05-11 at Champion Chevrolet-Johnson City TN (423) 218-0328 8:30am
Tech= Mark Leonard
Miles = 62k
Please help with the Flutter/Shutter Issue
TCC Valve.
Thank you very much for the information, and please keep us updated on your progress towards resolving this concern. If you have any other questions, please feel free to email Christina.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
1. Fully warm the vehicle and enter the time the shudder occurs.
2. Without releasing the gas pedal, engage the brakes lightly, this will dis-engage the TCC
3. IF the shudder stops, a THEN re-occurs upon releasing the brake pedal, the TCC is at fault.
Cause, "generally" the fit between the Torque Converter shaft and the bearing in the transmission is too wide, often a torque converter fixes the issue, other times it takes BOTH the bearing and the torque converter to remedy the situation.
Early TCC engagements had ONE lock-up speed, this resulted in "hunting" or continuous locking and unlocking of the TCC , newer vehicles have spread the speed of the lock and unlock by several MPH to avoid this.
"INDUSTRY" has an average memory of Seven years before making the same mistake again.
Perhaps the computer on the Cobalt is set too close on this action.
Otherwise the valve body may cause the transmission to shift up and down erratically.
A competent aftermarket Transmission shop can usually correct these issues by changing spring pressures or drilling out fluid passage restrictions.
Look for a High Performance Transmission Shop for this issue.
Another route is to contact GM Customer Service.
Even if a vehicle is OUT-OF-WARRANTY, problems specific to a vehicle are often fixed for free.
Ask your Parts Man for TSB's regarding your vehicle, this may incur a small cost, otherwise look in the back of your owners manual for Service Manuals / TSB's [Technical Service Bulletins]
When asking the parts man for a favor, always bring a bag of Apples or Donuts for bribery
Here's GM's contact info if the former provides no joy.
GM General Motors Corporate Office Headquarters HQ
300 Renaissance Center
Detroit, MI United States
48265
GM Corporate Phone Number: 1-313-556-5000
GM Mailing Address
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
Most Sincerely
40yr + Wrench
DrVette
Ignition modules often fail under heat and start up again upon cooling.
If yours just quits and restarts, I suspect fuel flow problems, however with your lighting issues, I do wonder.
If the engine shudders prior to stalling, I suspect a TCC [Torque Converter Clutch] issue, see previous post
Frequent Lamp failure usually occurs from one of four issues.
1. "Low-Voltage"
an alternator is a 3-phase generator, it can show full voltage when lightly loaded yet drop drastically when fully loaded, one or two of the phases may be faulty.
Test:
Operate the fan on full, lights on bright, AC on, wipers, rear defroster EVERYTHING at one time,,, THEN check the voltage, should be no less than 13.1~
Low Voltage causes High Amps, High Amps causes excess Heat.
Also the battery cable to the starter & load centers is now copper coated aluminum, the one going to the starter/load center may expand and lose partial contact, usually in Hot weather, to fix, install new lug [soldered on].
2. "Poor Grounding"
Vehicles with front end wreck damage often have the ground connections on top of painted metal, on high demand times, these heat up ;and fail, temporarily.
Very Hard to troubleshoot, look for new paint under ground lugs, rust, old paint, partially broken wires etc, also look for signs of heating in and under the fuse/breaker box.
You can run an alternative ground wiresdirectly to the battery for lighting to test..
Also the battery grounds to several points.
The Chassis, usually on the firewall.
The Engine Block, usually near the battery to save wire, check for corrosion, black buildup indicates long term failure & heat causing a non-conductive coating..
Modern battery cables are copper coated aluminum, these can heat up and lose partial contact when hot.
Colors that cause contact failures to look for are;
Green
Blue
Black
Amber
Rust
3. "Invisible Corrosion"
A term I coined regarding any failure to transmit voltage with no obvious reason.
Clean-Up shops spray Silicone Tire Shine all over the engine, Silicone is an enemy of very low voltage connections. A sharp eye can sometimes see the shiny and sometimes amber coating on connections.
New vehicles have "weather-pack" proof connections, Silicone can penetrate these and wreak havoc.
The fix, using a wire toothbrush, abrade and clean with Electra-Clean, top off with an electrical conductivity spray like CRC 2-26 or 5-56
READ THE DIRECTIONS AND ALLOW THE CRC TO DRY FULLY !!
On very low voltage connections, a simple skint place in the wire can cause corrosion & faillure. While working on a Roadmaster the Air Temp Sensor showed bad, a new one did not fix it.
A close inspection of the wire showed a very tiny break in the insulation, the copper wire was green causing the failure of the 5v device.
Electricity flows on the OUTSIDE of the wire surface, not the inside, this is why a small bit of corrosion on an otherwise solid connection can fail.
The signal voltages to your engine components can vary as low as 3.0vdc is why I made this mention.
4. High Voltage,
a seldom problem however the voltage regulator in the alternator can go bad sending high voltage to components. The battery voltage indicator should indicate this but only during high engine speeds, usually while you're looking at the road. At idle it may show correct voltage, 14.0~
Bottom Line
1 Low Voltage, most likely culprit
2. Poor Grounds next
3. Invisible Corrosion
4. High Voltage
Fixing cars is a tedious and often maddening task, I feel for your wrench, however FAIL NOT to bite the bullet and take it to a reputable dealer before spending good money after bad..
I'm so sorry to be so wordy however this issue is multifaceted and required a more complete explanation.
DrVette
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f17eeed/73#MSG73
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f17eeed/73#MSG73
Also note that GM Cust Ser is answering many of these postings, perhaps they'll institute a TSB [Technical Service Bulletin] for this issue.
Note, TSB's are unlike "Recalls" where the mfg contacts YOU.
YOU must contact THEM with a complaint to get resolution.
Also, depending upon the dealer/service writer, you may have to be aware of a TSB regarding your issue to force their hand.
DrVette
Email;
Christina
GM Customer Service
socialmedia@gm.com
The cobalt is so flawed; the entire car should be a recall. The only reason they haven't done that is because they'd go bankrupt. The Cobalts for the first few years AT LEAST are a disgrace to the GM fleet. What a LEMON! I'm done wasting money on a chevy -- push pull or drag sale for a 6.5 yr old car is pretty bad! the only way to get a penny back for it. :mad:
My car experiences hestitation and stalling with jumping RPMs several times daily. The power steering (which was recalled two years ago), just got replaced but the Chevy dealership clearly did not pick up on the engine/transmition/??????? problem.
I was concerned before, but after reading hundreds of the same complaints by other Cobalt owners, I am literally terrified to get back behind the wheel of my 2008 Chevy.
The fact that there ARE SO MANY complaints - serious, safety complaints - about this vehicle, and it is still allowed on the road is appalling. What is MORE SHOCKING is that General Motors and Chevrolet are fully aware of this issue and are failing to do anything about it.
I am disgusted, fearful, angry, and utterly beside myself.
Has ANYONE been able to CLEARLY define what the problem is with the stalling/jumping engine and RPM issue?! It seems like there are dozens of theories in this forum, but I have not found a success story...
Looks like I'll be getting rid of this car ASAP and will hope that it goes straight to the JUNK YARD!!!!!!!!
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
Has your stepfather had the chance to contact GM of Canada? They provide customer service for our Canadian owners and can be reached at 800-263-3777 (Hours: M-F 7:30am - 11:30pm, Sat 7:30am - 6:00 EST).
Hopefully everything will be sorted out soon!
Take care,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
Thanks in advance for your input
When accelerating from a complete stop, the car starts jerking/shaking from 1st to 2nd. I have noticed that it does more so when there is additional weight in the vehicle (i.e. 3 average size adults, rater than just the driver only).
When this happens the whole car shakes and rattles. It doesn't seem to matter what speed the clutch is released/feathered. I have also experimented with different shift patterns and RPM ranges, only minor changes if any? It feels as though the clutch is being 'dumped' in a low RPM, but just enough to keep the car from dying. From a bystander's view it looks as though the driver is first learning to drive.
I am not aware of any other mechanical issues. Also, just to note this doesn't occur when the car is accelerating from a rolling start. Only when there is the initial force to overcome. As I stated it is amplified by extra weight. I do not experience this in any other gears.
I thank you in advanced for your help and I pray (literally) that this doesn't mean I need a new clutch or transmission.
This is a power train issue and is covered under 100k warranty but GM will fix due to faulty issue. Do not pay for this fix. Keep smiling!!!!
Only post #36 come slight close to what I am experiencing. And I believe no one ever answered.
I'm really sorry to hear about this issue you are having. Could you please send us an email to socialmedia@gm.com. In the email please provide us your name, address, phone number, vehicle identification number, and current mileage.
Thank you,
Jessica L.
GM Customer Care
If you would like for us to follow up on your visits to your dealership regarding the transmission concerns you're having on your Cobalt, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your involved dealership).
Sarah (Assisting Amber)
GM Customer Care
Well, looks like this is a common problem for Chevrolet Cobalts. I have the same problem with my 2010 Cobalt Vin # 1G1AD5F56A7167702. It is now 68K miles but it started with the revolutions jumping up and down when driving between 35 and 40 MPH more than a year ago. It was probably 58K miles by then. I took the car to Tires Plus for a checkup and they didn’t know what he problem was since no lights or codes were on showing any problem. They suggested to clean the injectors and I did without improving the problem. A few weeks ago I took the car to the Chevrolet Starling Dealer in Kissimmee, FL because the “engine light “ was on so I thought that was the revolutions problem showing up.
They said the Code that showed up was PO300 misfire detected and PO301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected. So they repaired the cylinder, the exhausted valves, installed new head gasket . The warranty covered the repair. As soon as I got off the dealer the revolutions started shifting up and down again, so that was not related with the engine light on. I asked for another appointment and they said that it could be electrical or the transmission but I needed to pay either check up because no light is on to go under warranty. So here I am, with a car not driving well and no way to repair until another light comes up.
I’m very disappointed with the car, for sure, will never buy a Chevrolet again and would not recommend to anyone. Maybe they are good on trucks but not in cars. The Chevrolet should make a recall if this is happening so often in this model. Not fair that we paid for a good car and we got it with fabric defects.
If someone in Chevrolet can help before the warranty expires, would appreciate, so at least I can sell it in good shape and not pass the lemon to another person.
Well we have been waiting since September 29th to get the worked completed, today is Oct, 25, 2017. I do not understand how the dealership works, is it not first customer in first customer out ?? I was never informed by the service Dept as to the status of our repairs, I would wait for the car for a week expecting it repaired only to finally chase personnel down and find out A. the car was basically sitting in the same place, nothing had been done to it and B. I have been promised the car by staff on some many occasions and it has never happened.
Car is SUPPOSED to be fixed today, Dealer did supply a rental (which we needed for my wife's medical appt's, she is not well or mobile) which we had to return after 7 days because we have not been able to afford the $32 daily insurance.
This my first experience of a major default/breakdown of any car ever and I must say I find the Dealer Ship Service, how can I put this ?? Terrible is not strong enough a word, absolutely HORRIBLE.
We are very sad and disappointed and feel we cannot trust Chevrolet quality again to ever purchase another one.
Once your repair is done, I hope you can come back and tell us how the car is running.
The worse part was hearing "he hasn't found the problem yet". I find it very hard to believe it would take a mechanic putting in 40 hrs a week 3 months to find the problem. Do not misunderstand me, I believe it was very difficult to diagnose the problem and I am happy that they actually EVER found the problem !!It seems a lot of people with the same car in my position were not so lucky. They paid and they still have the problem.
This was a $2,300 lesson for me to learn, I am not a vindictive person. There are caring,dedicated people at the GM Dealership I dealt with, but as a whole the dealership functioned about as efficiently as a square wheel. I do not expect GM to drop $2,300 in my lap but would I ever buy another GM vehicle or recommend one to a close friend or family member ?? you are joking right ??
Sometimes life's lessons have to be learned the hard way. Consumers vote with their dollars. You got me for $2,300 GM. I won't be back