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2009 Toyota Corolla Problems and Repairs

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Comments

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,686
    JD Power Dependability Study

    This is the latest JD Power 3 year study - shows that for 2009 models (3 years old), Toyota got more awards (8) than any other maker. #1 Lexus (Toyota) #2 Porsche, #3 Cadillac And Toyota, #4 Scion (Toyota).

    Also note - for compact cars, the Prius was #1, #2 COROLLA. That's pretty good, considering the 2009 was the first year of a new generation of Corolla.
  • I have the same issue with my 2009 Corolla LE. It's a Japanese built model made in 2008.

    It first started after sitting for week; when I went to back out of garage the brakes seemed to be ceased and then let go with a "twang" and the ABS/Brake Light came on. The ABS/Brake lights went on/off intermittently but then stayed on steadily after a while.

    I’ve been to local mechanic four times so far as follows:

    1. Diagnostic Codes: CO210 ( Speed Sensor Failure - Right Rear)and C1238 Plug to Right Rear. Replaced plug to right rear, terminal repair kit and heat shrink. Result = ABS/Brake came right back on within 5 miles.

    2. Dianostic: ABS Light shows inactivity with left rear ABS sensor = Clean/apply electric grease to connections. Result = ABS/Brake light back on.

    3. Diagnostic: Clean/Apply Electric Grease to both Rear ABS Sensors. Drove 400ft and ABS/Brake light on again. Also occurring after the 2nd fix is disturbing noise from front of vehicle and vibration through brake pedal with light braking at low speeds.

    Mechanics now say this is the ABS module located in the engine compartment when it gets confused by the faulty ABS Sensor readings with the system thinking the rear wheels are slipping due to faulty ABS Sensor readings.

    Next option being suggested is replacement of complete Rear Wheel Hub Assembly because the female connection for the ABS Sensor is totally corroded resulting in female end of ABS Sensor not seating correctly within the hub. And the wheel bearings in the hub are ok but apparently all must be replaced as one unit to resolve.

    New Hub assembly from Toyota dealer quoted at $443 Retail but I'm researching a Koyo Wheel Hub Assembly -Rear (for Japanese Models) Part Number: W0133-1812555 for $172 through www.thepartsgeek.com.
  • I a 2009 Corolla LE. It's a Japanese built model made in 2008.

    It first started after the vehicle was sitting for week; when I went to back out of garage the brakes seemed to be ceased and then let go with a "twang" and the ABS/Brake Light came on.

    The ABS/Brake lights went on/off intermittently but then stayed on steadily after a while.
    I’ve been to local mechanic four times so far as follows:

    1. Diagnostic Codes: CO210 ( Speed Sensor Failure - Right Rear)and C1238 Plug to Right Rear. Replaced plug to right rear, terminal repair kit and heat shrink. Result = ABS/Brake came right back on within 5 miles.

    2. Dianostic: ABS Light shows inactivity with left rear ABS sensor = Clean/apply electric grease to connections. Result = ABS/Brake light back on.

    3. Diagnostic: Clean/Apply Electric Grease to both Rear ABS Sensors. Drove 400ft and ABS/Brake light on again. Also occurring after the 2nd fix is disturbing noise from front of vehicle and vibration through brake pedal with light braking at low speeds. Mechanics now say this is the ABS module located in the engine compartment when it gets confused by the faulty ABS Sensor readings with the system thinking the rear wheels are slipping due to faulty ABS Sensor readings. Next option being suggested is replacement of complete Rear Wheel Hub Assembly because the female connection for the ABS Sensor is totally corroded resulting in female end of ABS Sensor not seating correctly within the hub. And the wheel bearings in the hub are ok but apparently all must be replaced as one unit to resolve.

    New Hub assembly from dealer quoted at $443 Retail but I'm researching a Koyo Wheel Hub Assembly -Rear (for Japanese Models) Part Number: W0133-1812555 for $172 through www.thepartsgeek.com.
  • debbie70debbie70 Posts: 1
    I was looking through this because of a tire problem and was surprised by your remark about the noise. Our 2010 Toyota Corolla does the exact same thing. I have told mechanics and they say that until they hear it they don't know what to do. They say they can't find anything by looking. WELL the car makes a strange noise and the breaks vibrate. The first time I heard it, I thought I had hit a man hole cover. I was turning and going over a bump.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 84
    What is the tire problem? Is your Corolla going through tires, too? I put on a set of Michelin X radials after the goodyears wore out and after 6k miles the tires are already 1/4 worn. They are supposed to last 80k. The goodyears were replaced at 12k, but I figured they were crappy OEM tires.
    I think it's a suspension issue. I hear a loud clunk when the (front, I believe) tires hit a bump or pothole in the road while breaking. It sounds a little wobbly. And the brake pedal itself will shake violently. I've driven many types of cars over the same bumps in my road that 90% of the time cause this sound to happen in the Corolla without a single issue. No clunk or pedal shake. The dealership said it's the Corollas "superior" abs system in new models. Since the car has been in the shop several times I've driven many 2010 and 2011 toyotas (scion xd, prius, etc) and never got that bizarre sound. My moms 06 civic or 10 legacy with abs don't either.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    edited March 2012
    I really think you got a lemon, :lemon: I have not had one issue with my 2009 Corrolla yet.
  • I too had some odd trany issues, with the worst being an abrupt shudder of the car (whole car jolted/shook). It wouldn't post a code, so the dealership said not their problem. Trany flush resolved the issue, likely related to a fluid issue and the lock-up torque converter. Happened under slight acceleration, usually coming off a ramp at highway speeds, though it occurred in other situations as well. Like I said, in my case a trany flush and fill resolved the issue, but it cost me $150 to have it done, despite being under warranty and with less than 60,000 miles on it, and that service not being required until about 100,000. Worth a shot, and not a bad thing (except for the price) as preventative maintenance in any regard. Good luck!
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    2009 Corolla

    For the past few days I've noticed that after starting the car, the first few times I hit the brakes there is a significant "grinding" noise coming from them. Felt like the pads/rotors might come apart.. After the brakes are applied a few times, the noise disappears and the car drives normally. Is this an issue? Has anyone else encountered this problem before?. yesterday for the first few brakes there was a significant "grinding" noise. I parked the car for two hours then took a drive for 3 minutes. It was perfect and normal.

    Should I take out and clean all brake parts ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I wouldn't take any brake parts out, just clean them off with "Brake-Kleen"--but if you are ambitious and want to sandpaper the brade pads to even them out a bit, that might be okay. I think this is related to both moisture build up on cold morning and the normal wear patterns (grooves, etc) of older brakes.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited March 2012
    Has it been rainy or damp where you are?
    Disk rotors can develop a thin layer of rust overnight that gets rubbed off after a few stops.
    This is normal.
    New cars that sit in front dealership for weeks can develop "lot rot", not so good on a test drive.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 84
    Yeah I think so too, but the problems are so numerous and abstract that I don't know if there's really anything I can do other than trade it in....which is a possibility. Hoping to trade it in for a Fit/Civic or Fiesta/Focus.

    Does anyone know what could cause that problem? Brake pedal shaking and an audible shudder under the car when either going over bumps or hitting potholes above 10 mph or so?
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    How about the Mazda 3, that's a really nice car also? If I wouldn't buy a Corolla it would be a Mazda 3.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,686
    edited April 2012
    Hitting a big bump while braking will cause ABS to come on (brake pedal "shaking"). Normal.

    Civic or Fiesta - check Consumer Reports first.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 84
    Yeah, I was looking at maybe a used Mazda 3 (maybe stepping up to a Nissan Altima). But it almost seems worth going for a new Civic LX or Focus SE. I might be able to negotiate a deal with the dealership and I might be able to trade it in for a new Yaris or something. Right now I'm putting up with it and seeing what's happening with colleges before I make any decisions.

    It just seems odd that I have driven a handful of other vehicles with ABS and stability/traction control (thank the dealership rentals for all that experience! Scion xD, 2 different Priuses, and a Tacoma) over the same bumps with no pedal shake and no weird sounds coming from the suspension. But, what do I know.
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Re: Mr_Shiftright & circuitsmith

    Past Saturday I took a ride and found that with end of every stop there was significant grinding noise. I took to the nearest firestone shop. Replaced front pads with Wagner Ceramic for $105+ Tax (after $20 mail in rebate). All the noise is gone... The pads are quiet.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Probably a good idea to not allow your brake pads to wear down so low - surprised you didn't need rotors also because of grooving!
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    edited April 2012
    You might be surprised, only 18K miles on the car. Dealer tech. requested to change the pads at 15K. I was in doubt so declined their advice. Also most of the dealerships charge $250 for standard brake service.
  • sjareasjarea Posts: 49
    Interesting. I have 15K with 25 months on '10 rolla and it has developed 'brake pad shift' IMO. Phuey cuz my '91 SR5 and '94 Camry never had such issues.

    Probably should just go ahead and switch mine out now. Ugh.
  • zzzcarzzzcar Posts: 3
    re: brake shake - ABS triggering. I have same issue with '06 corolla and know others that have same problem. I can hit cobble stones, small bumps etc and if 'im braking abs goes off...same problem on snow. when this happens there's very if any braking force making it to wheels...almost like coasting but with abs firing. i have had many other cars with abs, and this abs does not act like any of the others. imo it's not programmed right or there's some problem. In certain scenarios i have to pump brakes which is exact opposite of what you are supposed to do on other cars when abs triggers. I've learned to adjust to it. Otherwise car has been great. I did also suffer the 'ECM' failure but toyota covered that under recall at no charge.
  • kbrannon1kbrannon1 Posts: 1
    My car stalled at an intersection. After having it looked at by the dealer, I was told that the water pump had gone bad (which is out of warranty due to mileage), which caused my engine to seize up. I need to replace my entire engine on my 2 year old car! but they assured me it would only cost 4,000.00$ to put a new engine in! :( :mad: This is crazy! I have since read online that Toyota redesigned my water pump on my car. So, if they needed to change the design of it, then they KNEW there was a problem with the original design. Why is it that Toyota didnt do a recall? I am disgusted over this and will NEVER buy Toyota again! :lemon:
  • cass01cass01 Posts: 10
    You need to challenge this. There is a service bulletin on that stupid water pump and it should be covered under the drive train warranty. I had my pump replaced last year when it started leaking.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    While you are correct that there was a TSB out on the water pump I highly doubt your going to convince any dealership that a water pump is part of the drive train, really ! They were replacing any customer's water pump who requested it to be replaced. I had mine replaced on my 2009 in 2011 right before the warranty expired and I was experiencing no problems whatsoever.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,686
    edited May 2012
    The water pump is covered under the 5 year, 60k mile powertrain warranty - see the warranty book for information.
  • cass01cass01 Posts: 10
    We must have an unusual dealership because the mechanic told me it was covered under the drive train warranty. He said this after I said I was relieved I got it in before the 3 year. I was surprised when he told me that, but hey, what's good for him is really good for me. At least in this circumstance.
  • cass01cass01 Posts: 10
    Thank you for the back up. The guy threw me when he poo pooed my reply that the water pump was covered under the powertrain (sorry I said DRIVEtrain). I knew I was correct. So, anyway, I hope the guy can talk to Toyota and get reimbursed.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,686
    Call Toyota (number in your owner's manual) if you have any problems. They can (and will) straighten out the dealership for you.
  • sjareasjarea Posts: 49
    Maybe I should have the dealership verify that my water pump is the redesigned one too. I don't trust a g-d dam thing Toyota says anymore.

    My car was bought on 3/31/10 made on 3/3/10 at NUMMI (last month they built cars there). This was about 1 or 2 months AFTER Toyota said we have stopped production lines to change the floor mats and install the gas pedal shim/shave the gas pedal. So, what do I get in the mail about a month after purchase? Bring your car in for the recall. Grrrrrr.

    The it had the EPS issue. And now with 15.5K on it the brake pads have developed 'pad shift' which three dealers have looked at and said it's normal. Really? My car making a clunking noise every time I back up and go from reverse to drive is normal? Uh, OK. I will remember that the next time I buy a non-Toyota made car....

    Maybe Toyota missed the point as to why people buy new cars. It is NOT so they can constantly bringing them back in for 'service' or 'fixes' every 6-9 months. It's supposed to be a reliable commute car. Ha!

    Brake pads, EPS, water pumps, special oil filter wrench, etc.,......what a turd this model year has become IMO.
  • Just had the engine in our 2009 Corolla replaced (under PowerTrain warranty) as water pump failed and caused engine and associated systems to fail. We purchased this car "used" with 29,000 miles in 2011. Mechanic told me that water pumps on any 2009 Corollas that come in for ANY service are automatically checked for pre-mature failure. We are very thankful that all parts, including an entire new engine, and labor was covered by Toyota. We strongly recommend that anyone with a 2009 Corolla, that have previously had no major service, have their water pump checked. If you are outside the warranty period, replacement of a water pump is cheaper than the entire engine.
  • toyodave5toyodave5 Posts: 2
    edited May 2012
    Mine was doing same thing now it is getting worse and dies I was able to put in neutral but know idle drops and raises in neutral has been in for diagnosis three times and they cannot find the issue no codes are showing on car .

    water pump transmission have been replaced burns oil tires and brakes have bought toyota for years this is my last one.
  • toyodave5toyodave5 Posts: 2
    They must all do this mine is the same POS
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Did you by the car new? The whole things seems so weird that your having so many problems that others have not, (transmission?, brakes?, oil burning?)
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    LOL, no sorry, they don't all do this !
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,686
    I guess he did not see post # 923 about the JD Powers 3 year dependability study, or Consumer Reports!
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    for my 2009 corolla @ 21K miles

    For the past few weeks on cold starts. I turn the ignition and as soon as the motor kicks in, there is this loud grinding/rattling sound for about one or two seconds. It only seems to do it when the motor has been off for at least a couple of hours. The sound went away for few days.. then it came back.. The degree of noise depends on the length of time it has been off (i.e. it is usually longest and loudest in the morning, shortest when you start up again after few hours).

    I found below TSB.

    link title

    Did any one of this forum experienced this problem ?. How long it took to fix ?
  • mike7945mike7945 Posts: 1
    Purchased my 2009 Corolla XLE with a Five year warranty from Toyota (warranty should be good until April 2014) My air-conditioning was working perfectly for the first three years and recently during June only works intermittently (inability to produce cold air) it blows but not as good as before.
    Called Toyota and I was advised it would cost $280.00 to service. Booked it in for the service then Toyota asked if I was sure I wanted to have the a/c repaired as they could not find anything wrong with it. Well I agreed to see how it goes and try it out for a few days. The problem continued and I booked the my car in again for the a/c repair and oil change.
    Received a call from Toyota again that there is nothing wrong with my a/c and I was only billed for new oil change .

    The same problem continues… took my carback to Toyota the cold air works but agree it’s fine in the early morning when it’s not hot and you don’t need much air. But if my car stands in the sun all day and you get into at 4:pm in the hot summer afternoon the a/c just cannot cool my car anymore like it used to. So drove the 25 miles home with nonfunctioning A/C direct to Toyota they took my car to the back and again called me to the back and they somehow managed to get it to blow cold again better than what it was but not really like when I had my car for the first three years (only 21000 miles driven.)
    They asked me if my car had been in an accident which it has not. They still insist that they cannot find anything wrong with my cars a/c and if I continue to have problems I must bring my car back to them. I feel that I’m am going insane with dealing with Toyota not to mention the time wasted taking it to them for three times already.

    Clearly there is a problem with the thermostat and Toyota keep on doing the sidestep in committing to do any repairs. I used to be a proud and satisfied Toyota customer but not anymore.
    How do I get a car with a/c that works ? trade it in and buy a new car ?

    This situation is so ridiculous !! so much for Toyota’s five year warranty that I paid an additional $2,000 .00 for

    Anyone with a similar problem ?
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Let me start by stating the price you paid for the 5 year warranty ($2000.00) sounds outrages. But anyway, I also have a 2009 XLE I bought new in 2008. I do notice the A.C. in my 2009 does not cool as good as my 2001 Corolla LE. That being said, the only problem I have experienced with the A.C. in the 2009 is the stinky odor from the evaporator coil. There is a TSB out for the odor which many have experienced. They will replace the evaporator under warranty but it's really a labor intensive job where they have to tear apart the whole dash just to get to the evaporator coil. I chose to just put up with the smell as it's only for the first two minutes when you turn on the A.C. Below is the TSB link for the evaporator
    http://www.empirepao.com/tsb/T-SB-0384-09.pdf
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    It's time that you part ways with that dealer and find another one. Good luck.
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Yesterday evening I dropped my 09 corolla at 20K miles to the dealership for cold start rattle/grinding noise from top of the engine. I mentioned the TSB on camshaft but the service guy was not interested about the TSB. He asked like you don’t have extended warranty?. I said Toyota should cover this since I am within the power train warranty period. He told if the mechanic starts the car and hear the noise tomorrow. He will look on it. If any thing Toyota covers you don’t have to pay for it. But if they don’t cover and you do not want to be fixed here.. I will be charging you $150 for diagnosis.

    Just called today morning.. the mechanic is still looking at the car...

    I am thinking like as soon as I get the car back.. I will trade in for a new Camry. I am afraid this one.. also after driving for a while grr.. grr.. grrr noise seems to come from the water pump assembly ..
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    Yea, water pumps are bad on the 2009's - TSB on that too - had mine replaced on my 2009 Corolla under warranty - no questions asked
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    for the water pump did you hear grrr...grrr....grrrr noise with idle ?

    How long did your dealer took to diagnose & fix ?
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    My car having engine grinding noise, as soon as the motor kicks in hears a loud grinding/rattling noise. Dealer checked and said they could not duplicate the sound. But I still hear it. Not every start it’s only after sitting for 3 or 4 hours. Some times even after sitting for a while it starts normally. I was searching many forums. Some said its ignition module, some said distributors, some said flying wheel. Toyota has the TSB out for camshaft gear assembly. Did any one experiencing this problem right now?

    How do I force the dealer to perform the TSB on my vehicle? No use of calling Toyota..
  • It's probably your alternator. I'm a mechanic and my girlfriend drives this car. She has put in four replacement alternators. When her new alternator is going bad, her engine sounds like a diesel truck. This model year toyota, came factory with a bad part. Only certain vin numbers are incorporated. Toyota released a technical service bulletin (T-SB-0004-11, date of issue January 5 2011) that under warranty, covers cars under 3 years or 36,000 miles. "Some 2009-2010 model year Corolla vehicles may exhibit a condition where the charging system light is "ON", the alternator is in operative, and/or there is abnormal noise from the engine compartment. This may be cause by the pulley not being seated correctly. The pulley has been updated to correct this condition. Use the following procedure to diagnose and repair the alternator." This is from the online repair manual we use at my shop. Toyota has engineered a new part, however, you can only buy it from Toyota, as they have not released the specs. If you go to an auto parts store to buy a cheaper part, they will sell you an alternator that was to designed to fail. I am speaking from experience.

    If you plan to trade your car in, as a mechanic, I would refer you to a Honda dealer or private owner. I always have, and always will own a Honda. Parts are cheap, available and long-lasting. Honda also continue to hold the highest resale value. Something to think about if you don't plan on owning a car forever.

    PS-I do NOT work for Honda. This is not a plug.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 5,124
    '06 Civic LX and still am very happy with the car. Sure there have been some TSB's done and a couple other little problems, but with a 1st year model, one expects certain things will crop up. And not really sure what else I'd buy as a replacement for it? Especially in it's price range. And to be honest, I couldn't justify spending C Class or 3 Series $ on a vehicle no matter how well it drove. As much as I love cars, just couldn't spend that kind of change on a vehicle.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2)

  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    I had no noises or symtoms whatsoever before water pump was replaced. The car was in for state inspection and my warranty was about to expire; the Toyota dealer suggested they replace the water pump just in case it was a bad one and it possibly might cause a problem after the warranty expired and they didn't want me to have to pay for it.
    This is the difference between the two dealers. My dealer actually looked out for me where as your dealer couldn't be bothered.
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Thanks…

    I did show a mechanic (friend) checked whole system, nothing wrong. He said might be some thing out of position inside the engine, also mentioned about this pulley. Contacted regional office, they recommended to check with another dealer.

    Toyota dealer quoted 10,600 (2009 with 23K miles). I like the car, quiet, smooth and 35mpg highway. I will wait for 2014 corolla or buy 2013 Accord. For Honda, Material quality is excellent but road noise is still major issue. I am leaning toward owning a Honda for the fist time
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    Wow. That’s rare.
  • terceltomterceltom Allentown, PSPosts: 1,024
    edited September 2012
    Excellent price and low mileage but maybe they're low balling it because of the problem. Are you sure it's road noise your hearing and not the engine noise? I don't hear any road noise from my 2009. Are they giving you a certified warranty with it? Either way, Toyota or Honda you can't go wrong.
  • j06j06 Posts: 90
    No. that’s the price they quoted for my car. I decided not to trade in. Very hard to find a good car for 10K. Next Week I will take my car to another dealer . Right now not a major issue. It might be the pulley.
  • negchinnegchin Posts: 2
    edited September 2012
    I know this is an old post. I hope you solved the problem by now.

    I am not a Toyota owner. But my neighbor is having the same exact issue during dewy mornings or after a rain with her corolla (late 90? model). She would crank the starter 50 times or more before it gets going. This repeated starting attempts are very annoying and I almost want to volunteer to fix her corolla so I don't have to see her having the starting issue.

    I had exactly the same symptom with Volvo 740. During the wet weather it wouldn't start. But later in the day it would start up like nothing happened, and once it starts up the car ran fine without any issue whatsoever. But the morning after the rain was the worst. I was expecting not to start on those mornings.

    The solution with Volvo 740 was Fuel Pump Relay. The Relay will short with excess moisture, hence the fuel pump will not work. As the day warm up, the moisture disappears and the relay will function properly.

    I replaced the fuel pump relay on that Volvo, and the problem was gone. Gone forever.

    For your info. In Toyota vehicles, Fuel Pump Relay is called Circuit Opening Relay. The relay costs less than $10. Even if it doesn't work, it's worth a try, don't you think?
  • guru76guru76 Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    I have been having issues with the air-conditioner on my 2008 corolla, sometimes it cools and sometimes it does'nt. I replaced the AC relay and the issue appeared to have been sorted out but it started again after a while. Anyone has any clues what the problem could be?
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