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GMC Yukon Start Stall Idle Problems

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    mrkuhlsmrkuhls Member Posts: 3
    DO YOU HAVE A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 2001 YUKON XL.
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    kehlkehl Member Posts: 3
    been havin problems with our yukon starting. so we had it narrowed down to the ignition switch, brought it to the dealer and had it replaced. it ran great for a little over a month. then it started losing power when we were driving. i would press the gas pedal then nothing. the car died on the side of the road, we sat for a few minutes then crawled home. next day started fine then it started acting up again. i was pretty sure it was the mass air sensor so i bought one from the junk yard put it in the car ran great. turned the car off after my test drive now its doing the same thing it did before the ignition switch was replaced. there is a clicking noise in dash when i turn the key but it wont turnover the ignition lights dont turn on either. starter will spin if jumped but the car will not turn over. any suggestions im at a loss
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    04denalixl04denalixl Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like the fuel pump is gone my friend. Had the same issue with my 04 Denali XL and it was losing power on the highway. Replaced it myself and it now runs like a champ. Also if you see that your gas gauge and miles to empty are changing from how they used to be...its definitely the fuel pump. Mine did the same and once I changed it..it still wasn't showing the right miles to empty but on the second fill up it went back to normal. A month later and she's still running like a champ.
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    kehlkehl Member Posts: 3
    but would the fuel pump cause the car to not ever turn over. the only sound i hear is a faint click in the dash
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    gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello,
    I am from GM Customer Service. I would recommend at least taking it to the dealership and have the vehicle diagnosed. That way you’re not guessing what the problem is, and you can figure out how to proceed from there. Thank you.
    Mariah GM Customer Service
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    kehlkehl Member Posts: 3
    hey mariah
    thanks for the advice but we did take it to the dealer when the ignition switch was replaced and they couldn't find any codes or anything else wrong. they told us the only thing they could think of was the ignition switch. 500.00 and one month later here we are again. we got the car to start this morning with an ignition fuse, but as soon as the car warmed up the acceleration problem started again. we called our dealer everyone is scratching they're heads. so if anyone out there has any clues we would be happy to be enlightened. so far we have replaced the starter relay, the neutral safety switch, the ignition switch and the mass air sensor
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    ed_derieued_derieu Member Posts: 1
    Cleaning the IAC worked for me. FYI it was not that dirty so clean it anyway.

    ed
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    benculvbenculv Member Posts: 2
    About a week ago my Yukon started to have a starting issue. It will not always start on the first try but always starts on the second. There are a few things that I found while trying to diagnose this problem. It dosen't matter if the engine is hot or cold and it only happens about 50% of the time. If I turn the key to the on position and wait about 3 seconds and then turn it to the start position it starts every time. One other thing I found was if I try and start it on the first try it cranks but does not start and then I release the key to the on position it continues to crank for about 2 to 3 seconds. I then turn it to start and it starts right up. At first I thought it was fuel pressure problem but seeing that it continues to crank after releasing the key from start to on I was thinking it may be an electrical issue with the ignition. If it does start and I release the key to the on position it never continues to crank. It runs fine after it's started. I appreciate any help in where I should look or what to try next. I am leaving on a fishing vacation next week and I will be towing my boat and I would like to try and fix this before I go.
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    sonfire4sonfire4 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get a response to this starting issue? Im having the EXACT problem with my 06 Avalanche... Chevy says bring it in and if its the ignition cylinder Im looking at 600 bucks.
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    benculvbenculv Member Posts: 2
    No response from anyone on my issue from this site. I did talk to someone else about this and they told me to try changing the fuel pump relay. They said it was the easiest thing to start with. I am going to get one tonight and try it.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    Sorry it took so long to respond and I know how frustrating it is to wait for a solution and nothing. that is why I go to justanswers.com and they have certified GM techs on board to try to solve your issues. The only draw back is that if they fix your issue and you are satisfied with the answer that the Tech has given to you, then you can elect to pay them 18.00 or 24.00 or whatever. But I had to resort to this because I wasn;t getting an answer from anyone and I certainly don't want to go to the dealer and get ripped off again. This is a pretty good site for me and my Yukon issues recently and it works for DIY like me. I hope this helps you it did me.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Next time try Edmunds Answers. Lots of good techs volunteer their time there.

    And it's free. :)
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    aljoy1aljoy1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 gmc denali that runs rough in the morning - usually after it rains or sits (with humid weather). SES light blinks and code indicates all cylinders missing. Problem goes away after running 10-15 minutes (engine heats up). Dealer can't figure it out - recent wires and plugs done. Being told there is no distributor cap / rotor on this engine. Is that true? Any possibility that it is the wire harness? belt tensioners? thanks.
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    aljoy1aljoy1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 GMC Yukon 6.0 and the Brake / ABS lights come on and stutter stop at low speeds. Dealer says there are no codes for the wheel sensors and indicating must be the contol module - any assistance with other causes?
    Thanks.
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    lawson2212lawson2212 Member Posts: 1
    We just purchased a 2007 Yukon XL with 59,000 miles a few weeks ago and it is doing the exact same thing you described. I also noticed that it will sometimes start fine using the remote start feature. I think it may have something to do with the security chip in the key.
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    gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Lawson2212,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Because you just recently purchased the vehicle, have you taken the vehicle back to the dealership to have them look at it? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
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    thrilla88thrilla88 Member Posts: 1
    This just recently started happening, but while i'M driving and as i start to slow down my battery dial started to fluctuate. but as long as my foot is on tha gas it runs great. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem I had my battery, alternator, and starter tested and all results came out good.
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    I have looked everywhere on my 5.3 for an IAC, is it possible that the Evap valve does the same job, as it is located where the IAC is supposed to be? I will clean all the sensors and parts as suggested in this forum and update. Thanks! Everyone for all the Great info!
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    edited October 2010
    Hi, looking for some help! 2002 Yukon Denali XL. A few months back I had some misfires so I read the codes, did some test and replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor and everything has been fine since, a couple weeks ago I drove about 3 hours and all was fine then that night, driving back I had some hesitations or misfires but it seem to go away and I made it back. Two nights ago I drove about 2 hours and all was fine. The next morning when I went to start it, It had terrible misfires (P0300),sputtered, I drove it about 100 yards and made it back to the drive and it never started again for the most part, occasionally after I let it sit, it will start, misfires and then dies again.

    It sounded like maybe a fuel pump issue but that checks out ok.

    I replaced the plugs, and wires a few months back, new EGR valve and MAF.

    There are no codes at this time.

    One more thing, I have been looking for vacuum leaks but really do not know where to start.


    Anyone have any ideas.

    Thanks in advance.
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    One more thing, I have been looking for vacuum leaks but really do not know where to start.

    Thanks
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    What motor do you have? How many miles? When it "misfires" where do you hear it coming from? ie; exhaust or intake? When you crank it over does it crank slowly, normally, or quickly?...Scott
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    edited October 2010
    I have the 6.0, 143K on it,it cranks normal like itt should fire. Misfire seems to be coming from intake. I am also trying to locate my Idle Air control valve but I can't not find it to test, it's not on the throttle body and I cannot see it on the intake manifold.
    Thanks for your help.
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    Do you by chance have a compression gauge? It sounds like either ignition timing, or valve timing is way out. Ignition timing would be a computer issue, however valve timing could be a more serious problem. Using a compression gauge would rule our valve timing problems.
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    No I do not, I guess I may have to take this in to the shop. I'm just not sure what would throw the timing out that quick, especially since it ran fine, I parked it and then it had it's issues. Could the Idle Air control vale cause issues like that?

    I can't believe I can't find that thing to do a simple test.

    Thanks for your help. It looks like a tow to the shop!!
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Hi Fongerrlli, I have looked all over on my 2002 Denali XL and cannot find the IAC, I see nothing that looks like the replacement IAC online, silver, with a connector out the top,

    The manuals show the IAC attached to the throttle body but not in this case. There is a black cylinder about 3 " long on the left side of the throttle body with wires but that is mounted to the TB with 4 bolts, and a small black sensor on the right side which I believe is the position sensor.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    Actually, There are several things that could give you the same conditions. Are you sure the motor doesn't seem to be turning over just a little faster than usual? It is common for engines to "jump time" when you turn them off. This puts the cam and crank out of synch. The timing chain connects the two and if it jumps a tooth(or more) the valves are no longer in time with the pistons,you then will lose compression and the computer will send the signal to fire at the wrong time; possibly when an intake or exhaust valves are still open. This is when you will hear the combustion in the intake or the exhaust. Hopefully this is not your problem. You can buy a cheap compression gauge for about $10 just to rule it out. There are other ways but more difficult to explain.You might want to look into purchasing a repair manual from your local auto parts store, they are pretty handy!
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    mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    Thanks, it's possible that the timiing is out, but with the prior sympton of misfires I was going down another path but who knows myabe this issue is unrelated to the previous ones. I will go pick up a gauge and test that. I have all the manuals but as usual they give a generic answer for most issues. Like where the IAC valve is.

    Again thanks for your quick responses. Call AAA to get it towed in.
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    Usually if the IAC is not right on the throttle body, it is mounted right behind it on the intake manifold. Good Luck!
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    Did you find anything out? I'm kind of curious.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    your IAC (Idle Air Control valve) is controlled by the this and it regulates the air bypassing the throttle plate by moving the pintle in or out of the air passage . The IAC valve is controlled by the PCM The IAC is located on the throttle body and is held on with two bolts and has wires connected to it by a plug. when you take this unit out make sure the tip of the pintle to the mounting flange -press the pintle in until the distance is less than 1.1/8'sticking out.

    I don't think this part is causing your problem. It sounds like a lack of fuel or spark. but if you are misfiring it usually is a timing issue, or flat cam, or cheap gas, or timing chain slipped. let me know your findings.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    when I have questions regarding my Yukon, i usually go to this site and ask a certified GMC Mechanic you pay for it but its better than waiting for an answer from non mechanic (I mean full time paid mechanics) you know. Here is the solution to your GM problems:
    http://www.justanswer.com/?hptype=3&ofid=11&jats=62030-28098763-benfong7248DED0B- &utm_source=Jan05-Mar10&utm_medium=email(1869)&utm_content=crev2_Jan05-Mar10_moreqtext&utm_campaign=CarolQCheck&r=emm|Ca- rolQCheck|email(1869)
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    I can assure you, not all IAC's are mounted on the throttle body. As for answers, when someone asks "any ideas?" in a forum like this, I thought, correct me if I'm wrong, other "car enthusiasts" were encouraged to offer ideas. Not drive someone to a "for profit" site. "You Know" there are some of us out there that are not "full time paid mechanics"(retired at 47) however, have stacks of certificates from the General Motors Technical Center in Warren Michigan.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    I don't mean any disrespect to anyone and when i get into an issue with my Yukon, I know how frustrating it is to wait for some answers to the problem. but a lot of times that answers don't come fast enough. That was in my case. So I got tired of waiting for other car enthusiasts to reply back to me, thats why I merely suggested that he goes to that site to get a response or an answer from a mechanic. I have used this site for several problems relating to my GM Yukon and I have nothing but great results from them and I followed up with their advice and on the road again and no more headaches from that problem, until the next one. So please don't take it personal because i did not intend to insult anyone by all means.
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    mb04mb04 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    I have a 02 Yukon Denalli XL that sometimes when I try to start it. It will make a click sound and my whole truck will have no power, not the power locks, lights, gauges, nothing. I will have to pop my hood and tap my fuse box and wiggle the positive battery cable and sometimes shake my truck before power will be restored and I can start my truck. It sounds to me like a short at the fuse panel? It does this sometimes very weird. Love my truck other wise. It's a all wheel drive. The postive/negative battery cable has been removed cleaned and tightened. I know this is more of an electrical problem just kind of seeing if anybody has had a similar problem. Please help. Thank you in advance.
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    bradley6bradley6 Member Posts: 2
    Someone please help me I caint figure out this problem I have a 93 gmc Yukon with a 383 stroker it won't start right or idle right I have to give it gas just to crank it and after it cranks it idles at bout 100 to 200 rpm then after while itl raise to 500 it has a little hesitation in the throttle my service engine soon light comes on then goes off after bout 30 seconds it shows the idle air control valve code 35 changed the sensor it still does the same thing I have run out of things to do someone please help
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    bradley6bradley6 Member Posts: 2
    Someone please help me I caint figure out this problem I have a 93 gmc Yukon with a 383 stroker it won't start right or idle right I have to give it gas just to crank it and after it cranks it idles at bout 100 to 200 rpm then after while itl raise to 500 it has a little hesitation in the throttle my service engine soon light comes on then goes off after bout 30 seconds it shows the idle air control valve code 35 changed the sensor it still does the same thing I have run out of things to do someone please help
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    c_evans_007c_evans_007 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2002 GMC Sierra Denali that i have had almost exactly the same problems with mine as with your. I have a 6.0(used) because the first one took water into the motor throught the intake and threw a rod out of the back of the block. Now the replacement motor is from a 2006 unlike yours which is from a 2005 but i have the same problem. It only happens when i put the gas to the floor(when it goes into passing gear) when it reaches close to the shift points and the rpms are close to their highest point it starts to stutter. Almost like its choking and it makes a kinda banging out noise on the rightside of the motor and the check engine will come on and start flashing but then eventually goes off. The easier i am on the truck for a week or two the less it tends to do it but the harder i am on it the more it will stutter. Were you ever able to find some help or anyone figure out whats causeing the problem? I had a chevy/gmc dealership tell me that their best GUESS was weak valve springs but its a 300 dollar guess. Im willing to spend money to get it fixed but i dont want to put money into something that might not fix the problem. I have changed the fuel filter and cleaned the infectors and also changed spark plugs but nothing has help.
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    sfox5sfox5 Member Posts: 1
    I just removed my battery today to replace the washer fluid res. , now once I have put the battery back, I am having idling problems, any help? It has always been fine, but now idles down to 200-300 hundred and has stalled twice at a stop light.
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    vosh2002yukonvosh2002yukon Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this problem resolved? I have a 2002 Yukon thats doing the same thing. While driving down the road at highway speeds the engine just quits. After a few minutes it will start up drive for a few miles and quit again. I just replaced the fuel filter and it was dirty but did not correct the problem.
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    coach17coach17 Member Posts: 10
    I was able to correct my Yukon XL's problems by cleaning the throttle body and mass air sensor. Your local auto supply store will carry cans to clean each of these areas. It is not difficult to do, just make sure you read the directions. Hope this helps. Good Luck
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    jb04jb04 Member Posts: 4
    can someone help me with this i started my 2003 Denali up early one morning to take my kids to school, the truck iddled as mif someone was sitting there slowly pushing down on the gas paddle. I drove it in high iddle to school but brought it straight back home because it wasn't dying down not even when i put on breaks. Can someone please help me with this one before the dealership rip me off
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    acrodudeacrodude Member Posts: 10
    This sounds like a potentially dangerous situation. You need to determine if it is electrical or mechanical. By this I mean is it a sensor, like your TPS. Or is something hung up like your throttle cable. In either case, an engine that "runs away" can be very dangerous. I would ask around and take it to someone you can trust. Do you have a "check engine light" on? If so that would be helpful for your mechanic to make a quick diagnosis. You can purchase a diagnostic tool yourself to read the codes.
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    jeremy_pricejeremy_price Member Posts: 1
    I am having an issue with my 05 Denali. I went out to start it 4 days ago and got nothing, the door locks wouldn't even work. Took the battery and alternator in to get tested and both tested great. Put both back in and it started right up. Now I have the same issue again, any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
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    gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    I am not sure what could be causing your concern. Have you brought this to the attention of your local dealer? I would recommend contacting them to a diagnosis. Please feel free to keep us posted. Thank you.

    Tricia, GM Customer Service.
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    vodros87vodros87 Member Posts: 1
    2004 Yukon denali put a full tank of gas in it and then pulled it up to the store to run in came out and it was dead. Turned the key and nothing. It didn¡¦t even try to start all the lights worked, locks, and wipers. It kept blowing the pcm fuse. Finally took it in they told us it was a bad fuel pump. Decided to put the pump in ourselves drove it maybe 10 miles the car started cutting out and wouldn¡¦t go over 1200 rpms. It kept acting like it wanted to die. Got it home and decided to put it back in the shop. The shop looked at it told us it was the fuel pump. So they replaced the pump again. Ran fine for about 10 miles and once again having the same problem with it. It has no guts and doesn¡¦t want to go. The pump is pushing 20 to 25psi the check engine light finally came on and that¡¦s what its reading is the fuel pump. They checked the ho2 sensors for restricted catalytic converter and they found everything to be ok. They ran wires to see if maybe there was a short somewhere and they couldn¡¦t find anything. Its been 3 weeks and I really need my car back. Any help pleaseƒº
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    brewer1brewer1 Member Posts: 3
    2010 GMC YUKON SLT, 16,000 miles. Randomly on starting the RPM's will go to 4000 and the only way to disengage is turn off the ignition. Starting again, everything is normal. I have taken to my dealer and the shop foreman ran all the diagnostic tests. No results.
    He is going to canvas other Yukon dealer shop foremen for simailar problem and what they did about it. Dealer is one of the largest in the DFW area.
    I am asking this Forum for your imput. Any suggestions will be appreciated and shared with the dealership foreman.
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    gonzaligonzali Member Posts: 3
    We had the same type of problem with our 2003 Yukon and then eventually the speedometer stopped working. Come to find out there was a recall on the instrument cluster panel. So we put it in the shop and had it replaced free. Well it worked fine for a few months but then we started having the same problem again and now our RPM, speedometer and gas gauge have all stopped working but since I have more than 80,000 miles on my Yukon now they will not replace the faulty instrument cluster again. So if your Yukon is under this recall and you choose to replace it just be prepared to replace it again. Evidently even the replacement instrument clusters are faulty. Once your vehicle has 80,00 miles on it you are on your own. Best of Luck to You. Next vehicle I am switching to Ford or Dodge. I haven't had any problems with these make of vehicles.
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    gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Gonzali,

    If we could look further into this for you, we're available to do that. Please send us an email with more information about the situation as well as the last 8 digits of your VIN.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
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    lmaes1lmaes1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2003 Denali and have had the same electrical problems as others have stated. It has been in the shop multiple times due to the fact that after leaving it off for a few hours, I would go to start it and it would have a dead battery. I have had a new altenator, 2 new batteries, new starter, been to multiple "experts", all to no avail (not to mention, i've had to pay for all of this, in my mind, "needless work", since the problem continues. Most recently, my enire instrument panel has died as well. As I type, the truck is in the shop getting the instrument panel repaired/replaced and also checking on the battery drain problem as well. It is so frustrating and I wish I would of gotten rid of this truck a long time ago. It's a shame because I really do like the truck, just not the electrical problems. I hope someone who has had this problem can help. (I read about the negative battery cable and i'm going to try that next)
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    tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    I assume that the reason they keep telling you that its a bad fuel pump is due to lack of fuel pressure at the engine.

    If you are sure it is a fuel delivery problem there are a few things to look at. Mind you, 20-25psi is 'okay' for idling, but no way you are going to get going at that pressure. As an FYI, the minimum freeflow fuel pressure for the fuel pump is 85 psi. The maximum fuel pressure on this unit is 100psi. This is based on Autozones OEM replacement (with new wiring harness) for a 2003 Yukon (and Denali) with the 5.3L (or 6.0L) motor. If you would like to do some research on it, it is an Airtex Master/Fuel Pump E3508M

    1. Fuel filter. Seems obvious, but you'd be surprised how much damage a little $10 filter can cause when it stops fuel flow, this SHOULD have been replaced with the fuel pump and should be regularly changed every year.
    2. Fuel pressure regulator. Usually vaccuum controlled, if there is a rip in the airline the fuel pressure will not increase to the engine block when throttle is applied.

    Those are the cheap ones.
    3. Wrong Fuel Pump or bad wiring. There shouldn't be a wrong fuel pump, with 2 shops, but there is a problem with the OEM wiring harness that causes damage to the connector and burn marks. The fuel pump i purchased for my denali about 6 months ago came with a new wiring harness which I had to retrofit onto my old wiring harness and cut some of the bad, brittle wiring off. The bad wiring could be causing resistance on the power to the pump, causing it to spin much slower than it should and not generating the pressure the vehicle needs.
    4. PCM/ECU .... or electronic throttle system. If those are bad, you should be pulling a code on your computer, but if the computer is bad, then it may not send a code.

    I wish you luck in your endeavors
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