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GMC Yukon Start Stall Idle Problems

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    thebigman2thebigman2 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. I have an 06 and I have changed four batteries since new to no avail.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    This sounds interesting. This issue could be a numerous of items that might cause the "no power" at all coming from the source (battery). What I would do first is to check the connectivity between the battery cable (positive) and going to the other end, i.e. starter, computer, etc.. then check your negative cable and see if that is secured on the battery terminal and grounded on a frame or good ground location. To make the troubleshooting a little easier for you, you might want to get a code reader (you plug this into the female plug under the steering column dash area) and if there is an issue with the electrical system in your vehicle, then a code will pop up on the screen, and then look up that code on line and it should indicate to you what and or where the issue is. I hope this helps, but if not drive it in to your GM dealer and let them look at it and let them indicate to you what the issue is at hand.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    on that iac valve, there are specs of how much that inter sensor should be sticking out while you re-install it back into place. This controls the idle on my 01 GMC Yukon. I suggest you go down to your auto parts store and get yourself a Clinton Service Manual for your yr GMC and this service manual will have pictures of the IAC and the settings it must be at in order for the proper idle functionality. It should be idling between 600-800 in Park or neutral?
    I hope this helps you?
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    gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Have you been working with a dealership or Customer Assistance already towards getting this resolved?
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    I think after you replace the fuel pump you need to reset or erase the code on the computer or else it will continue to repeat the same problem?
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    mister40mister40 Member Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I have a 2004 GMC Yukon and it won't start. I've change the fuel pump twice, the battery three times, had a major tune up done where it was found that it was flooded. After the tune up still didn't start. My mechanic pulled all the spark plugs out, turned the engine until all the asses gas was out of the chambers, put them back in, still won't start. help me someone i need my vehical.
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    case7997case7997 Member Posts: 1
    2000 GMC Yukon XL 2500 6.0 Feel like we have tried everything! It was idling rough at first then twice it died at an intersection, having to get it towed home. We have replaced maf sensor, throttle positioning sensor, fuel pressure regulator. We can hear the fuel pumps humm, though this can still be the issue???? We have spent so much money and time on this vehicle and any advice would be appreciated! Right now the truck wont even crank over...
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    rcaylorrcaylor Member Posts: 3
    A relay is stuck in the energized position somewhere - air conditioning is where I would try first. This leaves the compressor clutch engaged, even while the truck is off and drains the battery.
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    rcaylorrcaylor Member Posts: 3
    These vehicles have a one-piece fuel pump/sending unit which can be taken apart. When the fuel gets below the level of the fuel pump(below 1/4 tank), there is a tiny plastic hose in the fuel pump unit that fills the unit up so the pump doesn't suck air. The hose, or brass strainer at the end of the hose, can come apart and keep it from filling the unit. The car may stall, stumble on acceleration, and even backfire. It can drive you crazy. Acts like a timing/ignition problem or a vacuum leak at the intake manifold, or even water in the fuel. When checking fuel pressure at idle, the pressure will be just right, but when cornering, stopping, or accelerating from a stand still, the fuel in the tank will slosh away from the pump, and the level in the pump housing drops, causing the pump to suck air. The only way to even check this is to drop the fuel tank and take the sending unit apart. If the brass strainer unit comes out of the plastic housing, get a new unit. On the old GM trucks, the fuel pump had a short rubber hose on it that would eventually split. Under a load, the fuel would pump right back into the tank instead of going to the injectors. The solution is a 25 cent piece of fuel hose placed between the pump and the unit housing. To see it in action, you'd have to remove the fuel pump and energize it in a 5 gallon bucket of fuel (very dangerous). Best of luck.
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    rcaylorrcaylor Member Posts: 3
    Have the crankshaft position sensor checked, and if the vehicle has a distributor, there is a camshaft position sensor in the distributor that checks a reference signal for the crank to ensure proper firing order.
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    matt_bentzmatt_bentz Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 GMC Yukon that had starting problems... if you wait 10 minutes intervals and try again it stats like nothing happened (one time it took 40 minutes). I have tried "all the tricks" and so far since I replaced the ignition switch electronics ($200 part and 20minutes to install myself) I have not had the problem. I will get the p/n and post it when I get home.
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    marvinyukonmarvinyukon Member Posts: 1
    2002 Yukon, 141,000 miles, well maintained. Is recently experiencing an intermittent problem (about 50% of the time). Symptoms: turn off ignition and stereo speakers give an audible pop. The power to windows and stereo is immediately cut off when this happens – the vehicle is supposed to continue supplying power for a short period of time or until the door opens. The stereo also loses power to the point that the clock and station settings are wiped out. Lastly, the vehicle is not starting properly. On turning the ignition, the engine will turn over, but not run. Holding the ignition for several seconds will not start the engine, however cycling the ignition several times (usually 3rd or 4th) will start the vehicle. Again, the problem is recent and intermittent.
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    hls94137hls94137 Member Posts: 1
    I originally posted this in the wrong place I think :blush:
    We were driving down the interstate last night and the truck seemed to jerk a little like it was out of gas (had over a half a tank) then died. pulled over to the side of the road tried to start it a couple times with no luck. Put the Hazards on and in less than 25 minutes the battery was completely dead. We had it towed to the town we were going.......woke up this morning jump started the truck, it started, then died. HELP! Heres to hoping this is an easy fix.....need to get home. :cry:
    Thanks Heather/Mark
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    leah9leah9 Member Posts: 1
    my yukon is the same year as your i was having the same thing with my i took it to bill hood gmc it turn out to be a bad wire it cost about 250
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    ddroweddrowe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Yukon XL. When driving it will loose power and shot off. We recently had the AC system repaired - compressorm, dryer, etc.

    This problem started when we got it back from the AC repair.

    We have changed the Fuel Filter but that has had no benefit. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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    levistonleviston Member Posts: 2
    Newbie here:

    I have an 04 Denali xl. starter cranks but fails to start engine, turn key off then on and it starts with no problem. Any ideas?
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    levistonleviston Member Posts: 2
    04 Denali xl traction control turns on intermittently when there's no loss of traction. I heard this was a problem with some sensor. Anyone have any ideas on a fix. It is quite annoying when car suddenly slows down.
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    law773law773 Member Posts: 1
    What wire did you replace? My Yukon is doing the same thing.
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    randallbrandallb Member Posts: 1
    I have a Very Early 2000 Yukon XL with 111,000 miles that i have owned since it was new, I love the vehicle But is has been a total electrical Nightmare. Now we are having problems starting the car, seems to turn over quick enough but not getting spark or fuel.... Let it sit a while and it will fire right up. Having a repeat of an issue from about 5 years ago with a slow drain on the battery that was traced down to a "bad Radio' GM Dealer wanted 475$ to install a new radio, so I drove it for a year with the radio unplugged. Wife got tired of that so I finally paid up for a new factory radio, (Have rear seat radio controls so no installer would touch the truck to put in an after market radio). Leave it sit a day or two and the battery is drained. Shop said two year old delco battery was bad so had that replaced, two days later same thing, doesn't want to start and battery almost completely drained even after a 100 mile drive....

    So I jump to the obvious conclusion that it must be the alternator, Shop tested and says the alternator is fine. Fuel Filter was changed 6 months ago. Wires and Plugs 6 months ago.
    This truck has been one electrical gremlin after another, Maybe this is not electrical but I have had all 4 power window units fail, 3 power window switches failed, Radio Failed , Two Engine Control Modules, door locks on three of the front doors and the rear split doors, wiper motor failed, wiper fluid pump failed, auto 4wd failed, Power Seat Switches have failed, seat heater failed, Power Mirror failed, Power Mirror Control Switch on Drivers door failed, Auto Level control unit failed, Level control pump failed, moon roof motor failed, Home Link System Failed, Onstar went "Obsolete" after a few years, Headlight Wiring Harnesses wore through and killed all the lights, Both Rear Taillights have crumbled and fallen out while driving
    Never again will I buy a vehicle in its first year of production let alone in the first moth as I did this one.
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    I also bought a brand new 2000 Yukon with the SLT package and not the XL. It sounds like the main computer that drives all of those things are out of wrack. Because if your battery is dead you need to reset all of those sensors etc. In regards to the factory radio all I did was add (2) 700 Watts amps to it and updated my speakers with Pol Audio and it cranks! However, you can add another radio below the original radio but the factory radio everything runs through it so probably not a good idea to switch it out. You need to get yourself a code reader and plug it into the reader and see the codes that is associated with the issues you are having. Once you start knocking out each code one by one you should have a nice vehicle again. I have 116k on mine and did a 3" body lift to fit my 35 x 12.50 x 16.5 wheels!
    I also have modified the muffler and have separated 2.5" stainless steel pipes from the cat back going into a x-cross magnaflow muffler to over the axle and that's it. Didn't have enough money to bring the tail pipes out near the bumpers but that's ok. I don't have any issues like yours though?

    So get a OBD-II code reader and start from there and get a GM code book to explain what the codes mean and get them repaired or replaced.

    I hope this helps?
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    fongerellifongerelli Member Posts: 28
    I just re-read your issues and looks like you have a a major short from the headlights that shorted out the "Brains/Computer" or the different control modules that controls the seats, locks, wipers, anti level, etc.. My question to you is how does a tail light crumble and fall out unless you were rear ended and never got them fix? Am I right?
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    harvest2012harvest2012 Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My Yukon cut off on me while i was driving. It started and i had it in park and it won't start. I have tried to start it but it's not turning. It will crank but it won't catch! I was on the interstate going about 75 when it cut off. Someone please help me....
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    gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning harvest2012,

    We're sorry to hear that your Yukon is having this problem. Have you been able to get it somewhere since your last post? If you are working with a GM dealership on getting this resolved, please let us know as we're happy to check into the progress there (we can be reached by email at socialmedia@gm.com).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
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    sguildsguild Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    I have a 2001 Yukon. Yesterday when I got to my lunch meeting I turned off my truck, got out, and I realized the engine was still running.

    I have an aftermarket remote start, but I have been able to isolate with about 95% certainty that this is not the issue...

    I was able to kill the vehicle by disconnecting a fuse, but when I re-start it the issue is still there...

    Anybody ever seen this before?

    Thanks in advance for any advice...
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    lowielowie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Yukon that will start cold immediately (-20c without being plugged in) but once its warm is slow to fire up. Did you ever find a solution to your similar problem
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    enrique10enrique10 Member Posts: 1
    hi my yukon did that yesterday so i was wondering what did you answer did you find out about it?
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    jpd9668jpd9668 Member Posts: 4
    Just read about your problem. I know this is somewhat late, but my 2008 Denali has failed to start on numerous occasions. I initially thought it was battery, but day after putting in new battery, same think happened. I put old battery back in and returned new battery. Dealer checked it over. Mechanic there told me that the relay/fuse box on firewall where battery/starter cables are connected may need cleaning and tightening. He did this and all was well for a few weeks then occurred again. Went back and he said that GM had informed him that there were issues with the battery cables. I replaced the positive cable (expensive) and no issues for three months. Just recurred this week, have just replaced negative cable. We'll wait and see. I think the next thing will be the fuse (120 amp)/relay on firewall (don't know official name of it). Hope this helps. What is the status with your issues? Have you resolved?
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    wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    I sent an email to the GM rep on this forum Saturday and am awaiting a reply. Same boat with power cutting out periodically over the past week. Bought it used and almost got a year out of it without problems (other than door locks which were already failed upon purchase). I don't mind paying for the cables but would rather not be raped for the labor on a known issue. I'll update this week when all's said and done so others know what they're in for.
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    rokinrhinorokinrhino Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 GMC Yukon, when we start the engine the idle ranges from 500 to 1,000 rpm, bouncing up and down. When we start to drive it, the traction control turns off then it says to check the traction control system and finally the Check engine light turns on. The idle problem continues through all of this. Then the engine has even stalled on occasion. been to the dealer 3 times now. And today is the 4th time! any suggestions???
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    chonolivarrichonolivarri Member Posts: 1
    Can you please help? (I have an 04 yukon w/5.3 engine) my vehicle has just started doing this...the vehicle takes several cranks and I have to be depress the gas pedal several times before it starts the vehicle does backfire and Boggs out and dies before it starts fully...after it does start the vehicle does run excellent. When I did take the vehicle to a local automotive parts store cause the engine light came on it read that the o2 sensors were bad I replaced ALL 4 and it did nothing to fix the problem. Also the abs light and brake light come on simultaneously every other day
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    bjc461bjc461 Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2013
    We have only owned our Yukon for 7 months and in the beginning it would stall here and there which we didn't think was a big deal. Now its stalling all the time. We stop try to go and it wont go and jerks you around like crazy. You hit the gas and the RPM go up all the way. We have brought it into a GMC dealership twice.

    1st time in dealership: they said it needed a computer update and new spark plug on the engine. So they did that. Mention hybrid battery needed to be replaced and engine wasn't firing. They could not duplicate the stalling issue so they would not fix the battery and told us to bring it back when it happens again.

    2nd time dealership: About 4 days later it does it again but this time it wont stop. Jerking the high RPMs and stalling constantly. Take it back to the dealership and they cannot seem to duplicate again. GM tells us we will not authorize any fixes on the car until the car computer spits out an authorized code for the problem.

    I am at a loss as to what to do. We paid a lot of money for this piece of junk and all we want is a working car. We are almost up on our warranty and I believe GM is doing their best to make sure we wear it out so we would have to cover the costs.

    Read on other forums it is the battery system that is causing the problem, also read GM does their best not to fix it since it is costly! Figures another greedy company that wont cover its own flaws

    any advice
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    jen2651jen2651 Member Posts: 2
    Hello - I am hoping you can all help us!

    Driving a 400 mile trip our 2001 yukon service engine light popped on. Continued driving it for 60 miles (middle of no where, middle of night), nothing. Started it up fine the next day, 40 miles into drive it began 'chugging', as though it were a fuel filter. Fast forward to today, ran the code, emission code - reset that and didn't come back on. Added fuel additive, seemed great. I go to pull out of the driveway and it died. Wouldn't start - would do the initial turn over but wouldn't fire. Hubby had me turn the key without turning it on and decided it was a fuel pump. Borrowed a vehicle, went and bought one, he replaced it...now...

    NOTHING! still won't start adn the fuel gauge won't move...it is though it is still out of gas?! Anyone have any suggestions? Please? Let's start with the easiest/cheapest first cause let me tell you, I can not take any more 'kick you when your down' blows this evening!

    Thank you~
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    jen2651jen2651 Member Posts: 2
    Figured it out!! searched and searched and finally pulled the ECM-B fuse...

    YEAH!!! fuse was blown!

    replaced it, turned key and gas gauge jumped up and instantly could hear the fuel pump working.

    CHECK THE ECM-B FUSE!!!
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    wasaewasae Member Posts: 1
    I've gmc Yukon XL 2008 I just bought it from auction so when I try to start, it won't start and there is no light on the dash board except the check engine light. I check all fuses,fuel, relays, spur-plugs and I changed the starter, too but won't start it just crank. So if u ve any idea about this kind of problem Pleasee
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    samnalesamnale Member Posts: 2
    The most common type of failure in the CPI 'Spider' Fuel Injector System is usually fuel leaks (inside the Intake Manifold Plenum).
    But, every now and then, instead of leaking fuel, the 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly won't spray any Fuel into the Engine Cylinders.
    When this happens, you'll see one of the following:
    One or two (at the most) Cylinders are affected.
    This leads to a Misfire Condition and usually specific Cylinder Misfire Trouble Codes.
    The entire 'Spider' assembly stops injecting fuel.
    When this happens, the vehicle Cranks but doesn't Start.
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    samnalesamnale Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 gmc Yukon first off the fuel filters in these vehicles need to be replaced often . there's a 50 percent chance that you have a bad ground wire for your fuel pump or a bad fuel pump is also a cause of your truck not starting . The other 50% of the time its a oil pressure switch needs to be replaced. this is the case foremost 1993-2012 gmc trucks from jimmy's, Tahoes ,Suburbans, and Yukons. Alot of times these things don't always show up on a diagnostic test. There are ways to test and find out . Look up scannerdanner onYouTube.
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    denaliguy101denaliguy101 Member Posts: 1

    I think I might be able to help some of you. I bought a used 2002 Denali with 130k miles.I started having the stalling issue within the first couple weeks of owning it. It would stall about every 2 weeks when approaching a stop light, stop sign or sitting idle. It would always restart within a minute. Problem was that it always happened while my wife was driving it. The last time it would not restart. I had to meet her and push it to the side of the road. I had it be towed to the dealership and they called me the next day and told me that it was the fuel pump and it was going to be $1300+. I got them to drop it down to $1250 if they didn't replace the fuel pump which I had already done. I was shocked at the price. I just replaced the fuel pump on my '69 cougar for $20. That's not progress. Anyways, I had to have the work done after they promised me that this would cure my stalling issue. We'll a few weeks later I was driving it and it stalled in a drive-thru. I had to have the staff help push me out of line. While sitting there I noticed that the dummy light was on for low fuel even though I knew I had 3/4 of a tank. I also noticed that all my gauges were dead. So I knew it was something electrical. I removed the key so I didn't kill the battery. After a few minutes I put the key back in and all the gauges came back and it started. I was about 5 minutes from the dealership so I headed there. It died about 4-5 times on the way there and each time I stopped, removed the key, put the key back and it would restart.I was leaving town so I told the dealership they would have it for a week. Well a week went by and they could not reproduce the problem and they were hinting to me that they wanted me to take it back. That's when I started doing my research and found this webpage. I forwarded it to them, I asked them if they did some of the things that were mentioned here. I had to tell them to just leave it running until it occurred. They seemed to care less. Finally after a week and a half before they finally got it to happen again. A few days after that they diagnosed the problem. They said it was the PCM board. They said they were getting faulty readings from it when it stalled. So I spent another $600 for a replacement. This was with a discount for their charging me $1300 for a fuel pump that might not of needed to be replaced. The good news if that it has not stalled since. It has been about 3 months w/o stalling. Boy do I miss my Expedition.

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    yukonmanyukonman Member Posts: 1
    Fixed. I had the same issue of stalling. It seemed to happen on left turns at idle. Mechanic said this is a common problem. Something comes lose and causes the wiring that runs down behind the power steering to get snagged. They had to pull it out and splice wires. It's Fixed!! This is after I cleaned the throttle body and MAF then replaced the CAM sensor, Crank sensor and TPS.
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    JasonLester1973JasonLester1973 Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 2005 Yukon has been dieing at stop signs, but would always start right back up and run fine. Then the problem progressed to dieing while driving down the road, but would always start back up. Now, it's finally got to the point where it won't start at all, and no one can figure out what's wrong with it. Has anyone else had a similar problem? I've read posts where people had similar problems, and sunk hundreds of dollars into their vechicle only to continue having the same problems, which is what I'm hoping not to do.
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    D_YukonD_Yukon Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2019
    Yukon XL 2004- My Yukon in May 2019 had major fuel issues, I’ve had the fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel filters replaced due to the scent of fuel. The vehicle was driving very nice until recently only on take-off the vehicle stalls, nothing happens unless you wait 5 – 10 seconds where it gradually starts to drive up to normal mode. The only way out of this situation is to release the gas pedal then press the gas pedal down and it continue to drive normally. If anyone is having this problem please let me know what you did to fix the problem. Additionally I took the Yukon to AMMACO to have it diagnosed and they said yes it is the transmission, however six thousand dollars later the problem was not fixed and still one hundred percent still present. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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    ethancoombsethancoombs Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 yukon xl won't start unless jumped and usually dies if I don't rev the engine and then just put it in drive. If i'm lucky and it actually idles after I jump it then its between 200-500rpm It sometimes dies while I'm driving it and then I have to jump it again. what the heck do I do
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    TEEwhitTEEwhit Member Posts: 1
    I have 2001 yukon it died got towed home replaced fuel pump and the crank positioning sensor ran good 3 days then acted like out gas but wasn't let sit for 30mins get home crank no start so replaced the cam positioning sensor it will start in morning and run fine shut off and won't start 30 mins later new starter everything new
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    Edmundssucks1Edmundssucks1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm an 04 Yukon 2500 XL 8.1L 4WD with dual tank arrangement. I have been chasing a stall problem for 10 months! I paid mechanic #1 to replace the fuel pump with OEM equipment (about $1G parts & labor). I paid #2 mechanic about $650 for labor to replace the replacement pump (warrantied) & the fuel line assembly. Mechanic #2 put hundreds of miles on the truck enable to see the intermittent problem (never mind he was a door dash guy). When I took the truck back the front tank support fell off (with my mom in the truck) on a city street because he didn't tighten the bolt. Replaced the bolt & the truck died again within 20 miles. I proceeded to research forums and replaced the Crank sensor, Evap canister, fuel pump quick disconnector connector and, finally the tank (because I damaged a PVC port that was injection molded into the tank) during iterations of removing & reinstalling the tank. That didn't fix it either! Knowing I did the work right, I had confidence to start electrical troubleshooting. This had been done by me & mechanic #2 before, but because of the intermittent nature of the problem, it had not shown its ugly head.



    SO, I verified the fuel pump worked (by removing then shorting where the relay normally closes & turns it on). I then swapped the fuel pump relay with the hi beam relay in the fuse block under the hood. Viola! It finally worked! And confirmed the bad relay by attempting to turn on the hi beams and, guess what, they didn't work. Problem confirmed. $20 relay, 10 months, $2G in parts.



    These forums are very helpful to find folks with the same car / truck problems as one has. Unfortunately, people are quick to ask for help and then abandon the community without following up with the solution to their problem(s). PLEASE, if you post QUESTIONS on the forums, post ANSWERS on the forums. Be a contributing member to your communities!
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