Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Have you recently purchased a small/crossover SUV? A reporter would like to talk to you about why you chose one over a smaller car or larger SUV.; please reach out to [email protected] today for more details.
Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

GMC Yukon Start Stall Idle Problems



  • Sorry it took so long to respond and I know how frustrating it is to wait for a solution and nothing. that is why I go to and they have certified GM techs on board to try to solve your issues. The only draw back is that if they fix your issue and you are satisfied with the answer that the Tech has given to you, then you can elect to pay them 18.00 or 24.00 or whatever. But I had to resort to this because I wasn;t getting an answer from anyone and I certainly don't want to go to the dealer and get ripped off again. This is a pretty good site for me and my Yukon issues recently and it works for DIY like me. I hope this helps you it did me.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Next time try Edmunds Answers. Lots of good techs volunteer their time there.

    And it's free. :)
  • aljoy1aljoy1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 gmc denali that runs rough in the morning - usually after it rains or sits (with humid weather). SES light blinks and code indicates all cylinders missing. Problem goes away after running 10-15 minutes (engine heats up). Dealer can't figure it out - recent wires and plugs done. Being told there is no distributor cap / rotor on this engine. Is that true? Any possibility that it is the wire harness? belt tensioners? thanks.
  • aljoy1aljoy1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 GMC Yukon 6.0 and the Brake / ABS lights come on and stutter stop at low speeds. Dealer says there are no codes for the wheel sensors and indicating must be the contol module - any assistance with other causes?
  • We just purchased a 2007 Yukon XL with 59,000 miles a few weeks ago and it is doing the exact same thing you described. I also noticed that it will sometimes start fine using the remote start feature. I think it may have something to do with the security chip in the key.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    Hello Lawson2212,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Because you just recently purchased the vehicle, have you taken the vehicle back to the dealership to have them look at it? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • This just recently started happening, but while i'M driving and as i start to slow down my battery dial started to fluctuate. but as long as my foot is on tha gas it runs great. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem I had my battery, alternator, and starter tested and all results came out good.
  • I have looked everywhere on my 5.3 for an IAC, is it possible that the Evap valve does the same job, as it is located where the IAC is supposed to be? I will clean all the sensors and parts as suggested in this forum and update. Thanks! Everyone for all the Great info!
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    edited October 2010
    Hi, looking for some help! 2002 Yukon Denali XL. A few months back I had some misfires so I read the codes, did some test and replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor and everything has been fine since, a couple weeks ago I drove about 3 hours and all was fine then that night, driving back I had some hesitations or misfires but it seem to go away and I made it back. Two nights ago I drove about 2 hours and all was fine. The next morning when I went to start it, It had terrible misfires (P0300),sputtered, I drove it about 100 yards and made it back to the drive and it never started again for the most part, occasionally after I let it sit, it will start, misfires and then dies again.

    It sounded like maybe a fuel pump issue but that checks out ok.

    I replaced the plugs, and wires a few months back, new EGR valve and MAF.

    There are no codes at this time.

    One more thing, I have been looking for vacuum leaks but really do not know where to start.

    Anyone have any ideas.

    Thanks in advance.
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    One more thing, I have been looking for vacuum leaks but really do not know where to start.

  • What motor do you have? How many miles? When it "misfires" where do you hear it coming from? ie; exhaust or intake? When you crank it over does it crank slowly, normally, or quickly?...Scott
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    edited October 2010
    I have the 6.0, 143K on it,it cranks normal like itt should fire. Misfire seems to be coming from intake. I am also trying to locate my Idle Air control valve but I can't not find it to test, it's not on the throttle body and I cannot see it on the intake manifold.
    Thanks for your help.
  • Do you by chance have a compression gauge? It sounds like either ignition timing, or valve timing is way out. Ignition timing would be a computer issue, however valve timing could be a more serious problem. Using a compression gauge would rule our valve timing problems.
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    No I do not, I guess I may have to take this in to the shop. I'm just not sure what would throw the timing out that quick, especially since it ran fine, I parked it and then it had it's issues. Could the Idle Air control vale cause issues like that?

    I can't believe I can't find that thing to do a simple test.

    Thanks for your help. It looks like a tow to the shop!!
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    Hi Fongerrlli, I have looked all over on my 2002 Denali XL and cannot find the IAC, I see nothing that looks like the replacement IAC online, silver, with a connector out the top,

    The manuals show the IAC attached to the throttle body but not in this case. There is a black cylinder about 3 " long on the left side of the throttle body with wires but that is mounted to the TB with 4 bolts, and a small black sensor on the right side which I believe is the position sensor.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • Actually, There are several things that could give you the same conditions. Are you sure the motor doesn't seem to be turning over just a little faster than usual? It is common for engines to "jump time" when you turn them off. This puts the cam and crank out of synch. The timing chain connects the two and if it jumps a tooth(or more) the valves are no longer in time with the pistons,you then will lose compression and the computer will send the signal to fire at the wrong time; possibly when an intake or exhaust valves are still open. This is when you will hear the combustion in the intake or the exhaust. Hopefully this is not your problem. You can buy a cheap compression gauge for about $10 just to rule it out. There are other ways but more difficult to explain.You might want to look into purchasing a repair manual from your local auto parts store, they are pretty handy!
  • mag44mag44 Posts: 32
    Thanks, it's possible that the timiing is out, but with the prior sympton of misfires I was going down another path but who knows myabe this issue is unrelated to the previous ones. I will go pick up a gauge and test that. I have all the manuals but as usual they give a generic answer for most issues. Like where the IAC valve is.

    Again thanks for your quick responses. Call AAA to get it towed in.
  • Usually if the IAC is not right on the throttle body, it is mounted right behind it on the intake manifold. Good Luck!
  • Did you find anything out? I'm kind of curious.
  • your IAC (Idle Air Control valve) is controlled by the this and it regulates the air bypassing the throttle plate by moving the pintle in or out of the air passage . The IAC valve is controlled by the PCM The IAC is located on the throttle body and is held on with two bolts and has wires connected to it by a plug. when you take this unit out make sure the tip of the pintle to the mounting flange -press the pintle in until the distance is less than 1.1/8'sticking out.

    I don't think this part is causing your problem. It sounds like a lack of fuel or spark. but if you are misfiring it usually is a timing issue, or flat cam, or cheap gas, or timing chain slipped. let me know your findings.
  • when I have questions regarding my Yukon, i usually go to this site and ask a certified GMC Mechanic you pay for it but its better than waiting for an answer from non mechanic (I mean full time paid mechanics) you know. Here is the solution to your GM problems: &utm_source=Jan05-Mar10&utm_medium=email(1869)&utm_content=crev2_Jan05-Mar10_moreqtext&utm_campaign=CarolQCheck&r=emm|Ca- rolQCheck|email(1869)
  • I can assure you, not all IAC's are mounted on the throttle body. As for answers, when someone asks "any ideas?" in a forum like this, I thought, correct me if I'm wrong, other "car enthusiasts" were encouraged to offer ideas. Not drive someone to a "for profit" site. "You Know" there are some of us out there that are not "full time paid mechanics"(retired at 47) however, have stacks of certificates from the General Motors Technical Center in Warren Michigan.
  • I don't mean any disrespect to anyone and when i get into an issue with my Yukon, I know how frustrating it is to wait for some answers to the problem. but a lot of times that answers don't come fast enough. That was in my case. So I got tired of waiting for other car enthusiasts to reply back to me, thats why I merely suggested that he goes to that site to get a response or an answer from a mechanic. I have used this site for several problems relating to my GM Yukon and I have nothing but great results from them and I followed up with their advice and on the road again and no more headaches from that problem, until the next one. So please don't take it personal because i did not intend to insult anyone by all means.
  • mb04mb04 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    I have a 02 Yukon Denalli XL that sometimes when I try to start it. It will make a click sound and my whole truck will have no power, not the power locks, lights, gauges, nothing. I will have to pop my hood and tap my fuse box and wiggle the positive battery cable and sometimes shake my truck before power will be restored and I can start my truck. It sounds to me like a short at the fuse panel? It does this sometimes very weird. Love my truck other wise. It's a all wheel drive. The postive/negative battery cable has been removed cleaned and tightened. I know this is more of an electrical problem just kind of seeing if anybody has had a similar problem. Please help. Thank you in advance.
  • Someone please help me I caint figure out this problem I have a 93 gmc Yukon with a 383 stroker it won't start right or idle right I have to give it gas just to crank it and after it cranks it idles at bout 100 to 200 rpm then after while itl raise to 500 it has a little hesitation in the throttle my service engine soon light comes on then goes off after bout 30 seconds it shows the idle air control valve code 35 changed the sensor it still does the same thing I have run out of things to do someone please help
  • Someone please help me I caint figure out this problem I have a 93 gmc Yukon with a 383 stroker it won't start right or idle right I have to give it gas just to crank it and after it cranks it idles at bout 100 to 200 rpm then after while itl raise to 500 it has a little hesitation in the throttle my service engine soon light comes on then goes off after bout 30 seconds it shows the idle air control valve code 35 changed the sensor it still does the same thing I have run out of things to do someone please help
  • Hello. I have a 2002 GMC Sierra Denali that i have had almost exactly the same problems with mine as with your. I have a 6.0(used) because the first one took water into the motor throught the intake and threw a rod out of the back of the block. Now the replacement motor is from a 2006 unlike yours which is from a 2005 but i have the same problem. It only happens when i put the gas to the floor(when it goes into passing gear) when it reaches close to the shift points and the rpms are close to their highest point it starts to stutter. Almost like its choking and it makes a kinda banging out noise on the rightside of the motor and the check engine will come on and start flashing but then eventually goes off. The easier i am on the truck for a week or two the less it tends to do it but the harder i am on it the more it will stutter. Were you ever able to find some help or anyone figure out whats causeing the problem? I had a chevy/gmc dealership tell me that their best GUESS was weak valve springs but its a 300 dollar guess. Im willing to spend money to get it fixed but i dont want to put money into something that might not fix the problem. I have changed the fuel filter and cleaned the infectors and also changed spark plugs but nothing has help.
  • sfox5sfox5 Posts: 1
    I just removed my battery today to replace the washer fluid res. , now once I have put the battery back, I am having idling problems, any help? It has always been fine, but now idles down to 200-300 hundred and has stalled twice at a stop light.
  • Did you ever get this problem resolved? I have a 2002 Yukon thats doing the same thing. While driving down the road at highway speeds the engine just quits. After a few minutes it will start up drive for a few miles and quit again. I just replaced the fuel filter and it was dirty but did not correct the problem.
  • coach17coach17 Posts: 10
    I was able to correct my Yukon XL's problems by cleaning the throttle body and mass air sensor. Your local auto supply store will carry cans to clean each of these areas. It is not difficult to do, just make sure you read the directions. Hope this helps. Good Luck
Sign In or Register to comment.