Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda CX-9 Problems



  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    "Anyone else have transmission problems. Zoom, zoom...what a joke. "

    Don't said that, man. :(
    Aisin transmission used synthetic fluid. Once in a while, the service people at Mazda dealer put in the wrong fluid causing it to seize up badly. This has been happened to many other brands as well. Wrong fluid kills transmission. Aisin is the transmission supplier of Toyota and Lexus. The reputation is there.
    Mine has 21K on it and it is as smooth as day 1.
  • fguzzofguzzo Posts: 3
    Did you ever find a fix for this issue my car is blowing Air that is 90+ degrees when the otuside temp is 75 degrees.....
  • k1200k1200 Posts: 40
    Funny you should ask...just today I pulled into my driveway...nice temp. outside about 72 had the windows down (no a/c or fan on at all). Turned the car off and the blower for both front and rear come on full blast. I have thrown in the towel on this vehicle and the lack of concerned technicians... I will probably just donate it when I find something else I like :-(
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    what year is your CX-9?
  • k1200k1200 Posts: 40
    2007.... I have had the relay changed 2x..... I just done with this vehicle..
    It became almost comical taking it in so often. Dont get me wrong I do not complain about every little thing, heres another issue to add. I started to smell mold in the car a day or tow after driving in the rain. At the same time I started to hear a very light clicking, but only when I would be on a bumpy road. It was coming from the right rear section.. hold that thought.
    My daughter discovered the floor in the rear was wet..not damp... soggy wet. all of the windows are shut tight, sun roof is fine. I took out the rear cargo area because this is where the noise was coming from. First thing I noticed was a lot of rust. So I asked my father to drive while I sat back there and looked around . What I see right away is where a spot weld gave way hence the metal to metal "tapping sound"
    But when he drove through a puddle ..the water is channeled up through the wheel well where the weld gave way..some goes forward to the rear seating area, some goes backwards to the cargo area.
    When I show this to the dealer they said "you obviously drove in water over 30 inches. Well if you know the CX9 you know that 30 inches is just below the headlight...and would be about seat level on the inside...and we all know cars are not water tight and there would be significant interior water damage... instead of a rusted right rear quarter panel...i dont know what else to say.. i just done
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    wow, what a crappy dealer you have over far mine has been very responsive but I also haven't been in for anything major yet. EVERY maker creates lemons and you may just be (un)lucky enough to have gotten one. I know in most states there are lemon laws you can fall back on but I don't have any idea on the particulars or what qualifies as a bonafide :lemon: ...but I agree 110% that if you had driven in water 30" or more deep there'd be extensive markings/damage on the vehicle let alone at that depth you may have even floated the bloody thing.
    Tried contacting mazdausa (corporate) yet and complaining? good luck...
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    The problem with the air/heater has been the relays.. and the heater control... If you've replaced the relays...and not the controller ... I'd do that... that's a now known issue. We carry them in stock... so I know.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    If I am correct, the relay was blown due to installed accessories such as IPod interface, Sirrus Sat Radio, Remote Start, etc. If one does not have those on the CX9, there is no such issue (I should say much less likely... never say never...).
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    I've none of those on mine... Not sure on the others...but can pull a survey if folks wish. It does happen in the "heat" more than anything ... I've not noticed it during the winters... though I do live in northern cali so... winter isn't such a strong word up here...
  • k1200k1200 Posts: 40
    so you say I should tell them to replace the relays and the heater control...hmmm I will do that when I go in for service.... thanks
  • imamg,
    Where in NORCAL do you work? I used to live in Davis ( I now live in crappy SOCAL ) and worked for Carmichael Honda in Citrus Heights just South of the Roseville Auto Center and just North of Sacramento.

    Sorry for the bump on this thread!
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    thanks there a TSB on this?
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    vg... I'm in Marin... @ the Mazda Subaru dealership... (been here since 86).
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    I don't recall it being a TSB... just working from personal experience.
  • dwhyte,

    I posted the following on the Ventilation/Air Conditioning forum:

    My CX9 is out of warranty so I asked my buddy that works at Riverside Mazda to hook me up with a copy of TSB 07-008/09. I read through it and was very simple and straight forward. I bought the relay that the TSB said to replace (part# G115-67-730) replaced it (under hood relay box closest to the driver's side fender) and up to right now no more occurences.

    I know that I am referring to the relays on this post, however, I do recall reading on this TSB something about doing a check on the complete control unit and thus replacing the head units if faulty. If you can get a "nice" Mazda employee to fax you this TSB, it may help you to get your problem fixed.
  • Yesterday I got in my 2008 CX-9 and tried to turn the key. The dash light indicated that the key wasn't close enough. I had the key in my hand. I took the cover off of the key area and took the key and tried to turn it. It wouldn't turn. I called the local Mazda Dealer and they had me get out, lock the vehicle, unlock it and try the key again. No luck. After several attempts the dealer recommended I have the vehicle towed in. When the tow truck set the vehicle down in the dealer's lot they tried the key and it worked, of course. (The tow truck driver did tell them that it didn't work when he picked the car up. He had to maneuver around the vehicle in the parking garage because he couldn't get it into neutral to roll it to his truck.) The dealers question to me was what do you want us to do? My answer was figure out what happened, and fix it. I don't feel real comfortable with winter coming and not being able to start my vehicle. The dealer talked to my husband this morning and said it works now . He asked what they had checked, there response was vague leading him to believe they didn't do anything because it is working now. Hate to think that the way to fix this is to have it towed. Any one else had this problem? Any information would be helpful it is obvious my local dealer isn't going to try to solve this problem. Thanks for any and all input.
  • imamgimamg Posts: 136
    If they didn't... have them check the battery in the key fob... ( I'm thinking you have a smart card key? )... It may be as simple as changing that.
  • According to the owners manual if the smart card key flashes red intermittently than it is ok. If it flashes green the battery is low and if the light stays on all the time there is a problem. The light on the key fob flashes intermittently. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace the battery. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    I had a similar encounter w/r to the ignition not turning on my 09 about a week after I bought it. If i pushed in on the ignition switch, I'd get the green KEY indicator on the dash that it was being seen OK but I still couldn't turn the ignition to the start or acc position; I then do what I do in my truck, I turned the steering wheel slightly while trying to turn the ignition and it worked just fine. Dunno if thats a coincidence or not but in my truck it seems to occasionally get in a position where the position of the wheel when I shut it down last time is preventing me from turning the ignition key. It works every time in my truck (F150) and now has worked once in the CX-9. If it happens again, give that a try (changing the batt in the fob is also a really good idea as well). FWIW and YMMV of course.
  • I had tried to move the steering wheel, I have that problem in my other vehicle. It was locked so tight there was no play in it. If it happens again, as I am sure it will since the dealer has decided that they won't try to find the problem, I will try to jiggle the wheel. Thanks for the input.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    It is most likely the battery.
    Don't place your keys too close to the vehicle when they are not in use.
    That way, the battery gets drained more quickly.
    The button 2023 (or is it 2032) battery is very commonly used. Store a few as backup like your typical AA or AAA.
  • Amazingly after my husband and I expressed our disgust with the dealer, they contacted Mazda and the engineering department did say they were having a problem with the smart card and recognizing the key. The dealer has asked us to leave the vehicle until they are able to get some answers and some parts. Unfortunately the parts may take a few days. I will fill you in on wether this works to fix the problem or not. I know I bought a new vehicle to have dependable transportation and right now I feel like I have anything but.
    Thanks for all of your input.
  • cericceric Posts: 1,092
    Unfortunately, the SmartKey system is quite complex in the sense that there are many parts involved. It is hard to debug if any. I also own a Toyota with a similar system. Owners also reported issues with it and it usually takes several trips to get it fixed correctly. Dealers usually just blindly swap out parts (ECU, sensors, keycards, etc.)

    Hope they fix your CX9 at first time. :)
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    after rereading your original post I see that the key wasn't recognized so jiggling the wheel will be an exercise in futility I think. I agree it's most likely the fob battery or the system itself for that matter. good luck
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    a hah...well it pays to be hyper sensitive to issues and to catch them while they're small or at least manageable locally (and you're not 500 miles from home eh). let us know how it goes. good luck and I hope they at least gave you another vehicle while they were holding on to yours to effect repairs!?
  • pwr1pwr1 Posts: 5
    Let's not sugar coat this thing. Mazda has a real problem here, and I think they already know it. There are too many consistent stories of this right/front suspension clunking noise for it to be a fluke or our continuing imaginations. My car does it and it is very clearly heard over broken pavement and is directly related to the suspension travel. Folks... there are only so many pieces down there, and somewhere down there, there is a part that is not within tolerance or something was not designed quite right. As much as I am a car guy, I'm not a technician and shouldn't have to be. Why can't we have a real Mazda tech person comment on this, so we can MOVE ON!! I love my car, but man I hate that noise... :mad:
  • k1200k1200 Posts: 40
    I agree with you 100% I have grown tired of the many trips to the shop. Loved the vehicle but now it just seems to be an ongoing joke to them when I take it in and when I have taken it in the only thing they do is spray lithium grease everywhere and the noise remains . To give you a better idea of how obvious it is..... my mother who is 77 and NOT car savvy at all, as I drive and make turns or 5-25 mph she jokes and says "it sounds like your car is made from cheap wood" she said "maybe you should take it to a carpenter instead"....LMAO but she is right and Im pissed :mad:
  • wdhytewdhyte Posts: 92
    are any of you that have this front knocking sound in an 09 model? From what it looks, it seems that all are in 07's...wrong? Right? makes me wonder if they didn't do a design or manufacturing change between the year models? how long before you noticed it? etc etc...TIA
  • ewsncewsnc Posts: 14
    Mine is 09 model and has frontal knocking/clunking noise on both sides when going over bumps and uneven pavement since about 2500 miles. I had the car checked by two dealers but they couldn't find what caused the problem. One dealer suggested to replace the struts but I didn't take the advice. Just want to see if there is a TSB to address this problem rather than letting my car to be an experimental victim.
  • howardruhowardru Posts: 155
    No problems with my 08 AWD GT. (Knock on wood) 25K miles...
Sign In or Register to comment.