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Ford Escape Electrical Problems



  • I'm working on a 2005 Escape 3.0l one of the coil packs has been replaced but the miss returned, I was asked to look at it, the miss is on the #4 cylinder I have tested it with a known good coil and have no spark, I have power at the connector but no spark at all. I can unplug the connection and it does not change the miss, if I unplug any other coils it get worse so I have traced it to this spot, but even with a known good coil it makes no difference. Any suggestions?
  • Not sure If you had the problem resolved, but I had something very similar happen to me. I had driven to Texas over the Holiday and on my way back the engine light came on and started flashing. I thought maybe I had gotten some bad gas because the car would drive fine for a while but then it would sputter. Made it about 30 miles from home the theft light came on and the car stopped in the middle of the highway. My mechanic determined that my catalytic converter had burnt out all but 2 coil packs. Once I had everything replaced, the car was been fine. Unfortunately I was about 2000 miles past my warranty (78,000 ). I read some place else in this forum where there was a similar problem around 78,000 mi.
  • Thank you for the info. I meant to post what ultimately fixed my "theft light and engine cut out," which continued to unpredictably happen, that I and others have wondered about here in this chat room.

    For my particular problem, it was this simple:

    I had all six plugs changed. Ford installed new 100 kmile platinums. The old ones made it to over 95,000 before konking out. Along with this, to avoid a large bill in the future, just in case, and at the suggestion of the Ford rep I dealt with, we replaced the three rear spark plug coils. It has driven perfectly since.

    There is one thing I can alert everyone to: make certain your Ford dealer has connected everything correctly when finishing up. Mine didn't! I got the check engine light this time, one day after picking the Escape up from Ford. Kind of threw me. But after reporting the light to them--just a light, no engine problems whatsoever--Ford said bring it back in. I did, and I have to say they were honest about this--the mechanic who had done the job left one wire dangling and disconnected. I was charged nothing, and the truck runs almost as good as the day I purchased it (2005). That's it ... that's all!
  • My daughter has an 05 , 75k miles, same problem as dimefan, #3 coil pack. New plugs , checked wires etc. no change
  • erich101erich101 Posts: 1
    Problem: 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L, V6 started having shifting issues, especially when shifting between 3rd and 4th gear...more like an stuttering motion, miss, or hesitation. The anti-theft lamp came on while registering a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1601. Problem became more pronounced when traveling long distances or when in heavy traffic. A few times when close to the final destination, the car would stall when coasting about 35mph at the moment the accelerator was pressed.
    Solution: There where actually 2 problems that needed to be addressed, though they work to perform the same function. 1. Ford has a service proceedure for this hesitation/anti-theft light issue. Without going into too much detail about what was done, ultimately all (6) spark plugs need to be replaced and the code cleared from the system. 2. Found 1 of the ignition coils failed to respond properly to the PCM/ECM similar that of the spark plugs. Both issues were responsible for the engine failure while driving. No DTC code was present for this issue because there was no power, the DTC simply thought the car was turned off.
    I hope this helps those of you who have similar problems, which may save you both time and money.
  • macpropsmacprops Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 ford escape that just got a new battery and alternator. Now the dome lights, map lights radio, remote door lock don't work.The door locks only work with the key in the ignition and when I start the car both the speedometer and rpm gage needles swing over to the extreme right, then settle back to the left. And lastly when I remove the keys from the ignition, the trip meter returns to zero. Any thoughts?
  • I've got the same issue. Other than the lights dimming I don't notice any loss in power, but, it seems to cycle (dim a bit then back on) and I only notice it at night. It may be happening all the time, but, the lights give it away for me. Did you learn anything about the possible cause? Has it escalated? I know I shorted a CD changer remote years ago and I always thought that was the cause of my electrical weirdness.


  • gregugregu Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Escape. Battery dies if car sits for 10 days to two weeks. Some evidence that drain is coming from CD/Instrument cluster but no proof. Lights on dash dim. One Ford dealer had no clue, but alternator is working and the battery is onle 4 months old. Seems that the problem is common and no one has a solution!
  • jelco145jelco145 Posts: 5
    I have the same problem with the battery going dead. I charged my battery 9 days ago (100%) and it is dead. I've gone thru three batteries, one alternator and had the GEM module replaced, and it continues to occur. My local Ford dealer is of no help. The service manager told me to hook up a trickle charger when it is parked and I told him that I stored two other vehicles from November until April in a non heated garage and they both started without charging or jumping. I know that it's not all escapes but I cannot resolve this issue. Mine is a 2004 Escape XLT and has only 19000 miles.
  • apdehnapdehn Posts: 1
    So my problem started a few days ago. It has not been consistant so I am having a hard time getting it diagnosed. I am very stressed because I am a single mother and can't afford much. My car has alot of miles about 90,000. It is an automatic 2005 ford escape. I put my car in park and went to take the keys out. The keys would not come out of the ignition. Then, I was able to move the gears from park to drive without pushing on the brakes and the car was turned off. Once the car turned off (after a couple minutes the radio turned off) then I was able to take the keys out and the shift was locked. I need some ideas. The shop told me it would cost atleast $400 to find out what is wrong because of diagnositc testing. Help me!
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 135
    It could be the shift interlock failing, that would have to be checked.

    Also, the ignition cylinder on the Escape is known to fail, the sidebar locks up.

    It should definitely NOT cost $400 to diagnose the problem. Find a good mechanic, or even a good automotive locksmith to look at it.
  • I am having the same problem from a drained battery. I didn't try the remote door locks though. I did notice that the ding for leaving your key ignition does not work either. My Escape is a 2003 XLS. I've owned the car for 4 years not and seem to remember the guage needles swinging to the extreme right once before but i don't remember how i solved the problem. I did check all the fuses labeled "lights" or "radio" and they were good. Soon as i find my meter i am going to check the rest of the fuses. I do remember having blown fuses once before but I don't remember if i had this problem during that time. Any help from anyone would be great or macprops if you figure this one out please let me know.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,032
    i would look for a fuse that is related to those functions and test it. you can look in the owners manual to find out which fuse.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • ping84ping84 Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    i just had to replace my battery now then battery light want go off and my radio stopped working along with theft alarm>anyone had this same problem?
  • ping84ping84 Posts: 3
    mine seems to be close to your problem. i had to replace battery but now battery light wont g off and my stero stopped working and theft system took it by advance auto to test it and they couldnt get nothing so i dont know what i need to do.
  • gregugregu Posts: 2
    similar meltdown. dash lights flashed, radio went on-off, car died. Towed to dealer. Dealer said alternator was bad--had it replaced --no problems since then.
  • ping84ping84 Posts: 3
    ok i have replaced battery alternator and all bad fuses but my battery light still want go off but everything is running fine any help with this would be greatful. dealship cant seem to find nothing wrong. it died on me so i reolaced everrthing!!!
  • hopeful12hopeful12 Posts: 1
    my '05 Escape as of yesterday stopped shifting. The Gear shift moves fine but no matter what gear i shift it to it remains in First because the gear indicator on the dash reads its in first weather its in park or drive or whatever.and at times the gear indicator will quickly flash from first to second and back or first to reverse and back or first to park and back all the while its sitting in park.It drives but only in first so no acceleration over 20MPH. I checked all fuses and have been told possibly it could be a sensor but no lights come on saying check engine??Does any one know of this happening, please help I absolutly cannot afford to buy a new transmission and this is my only source of transportation. :sick:
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Could it be your transmission position sensor...#6L8Z-7F293-AA $80.11
  • jp1980jp1980 Posts: 1
    I'm currently having the same problem with my 2004 Ford Escape. Trip meter resets every time the ignition is turned off; auto door locks only work when key is in the 'on' position or engine is on, radio doesn't work; dome light do not work; and all dials swing from minimum to maximum than back to minimum before settling at their normal resting point (for example with gas). Checked fuses - all good. Any help to lead me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to get done in by a garage "looking" for the problem. macprops - were you able to resolve your issue?
  • itsmesolonitsmesolon Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Quite often but not always when using the keyless entry my rear window pops open, does anyone have this this a known issue, I have a 2010 Escape Limited.
  • plumberseanplumbersean Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    2005 Ford Escape 2 wheel drive 3.0 v-6. Driving in traffic car shut off. Popped it in neutral, cranked back up. Once it cranked back up, it had an obvious miss, check engine light was on and the a/c wouldn't work ( I assume is part of the limp home mode ). Had the code read and it was P0353 coil C primary/secondary fail. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the coil on plug for that cylinder and all 6 plugs. Much to my dismay, problem was still present. Had some ford mechanics say it may be the pcm but at almost $800 for the pcm plus $100 to program it, it is more than I can afford to spend on a maybe. Has anyone here had a similar issue that you may be able to offer me some insight. Thanks

  • csealcseal Posts: 1
    Had the same problems and changed same things. It was the PCM I had it replaced and this fixed everthing. The PCM is under warrenty to 80,000 miles I only had 67,000. Ford replaced at no cost.There is one problem though I took it to Ford on Aug. 4th and was told wouldn't have part til Sept. 8th. The part did come in and got my Escape back Tues. Aug. 17th. PCM's are on back order.
  • i recently removed the factory 6disc radio to put in aftermarket one. My escape has 2 factory alarms installed and since i unhooked radio, the power locks will not work with the remote, none of the interior lights will work, and have no power in radio wires when i plug in new one. checked the fuses and all are good. all the other dash things work, heater,flasher,cig lighter. ect The alarm still works because i unhooked battery to try and reset and alarm sounded when battery re hooked. the power locks work when the key is turned on but any other time. I suspect there is something with the alarm being linked to the radio. Does anybody know how to reset or even disable the alarm. Also everytime i turn on the ignition, the spedo and the tach needle goes all the way to the right for about 2 seconds and then they return to normal. it also resets the trip odometer to zere every time i turn the key on. Any ideas?
  • kapakapa Posts: 1
    re: 2004 Ford Escape
    Where is the switch located (on the steering column) for the front windshield washer. I have no power to the front pump so I am assuming that the problem is with the switch connected to the washer arm on the steering column.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Pull towards you on the wiper stalk and that activates the front windshield washer pump.
  • I'm having this problem now. The alternator died in June on a cross country trip and we replaced it. Then 2 weeks ago it wouldn't start and AAA testing showed the voltage was really low so we replaced it again. Now after 2 days my battery light is coming on again. What ended up happening with your car?
  • Hello everyone,
    I have the same problem with my ford escape 2003. After i replaced the battery and the alternator inside the car anything would not turn on. Did u ever find out with the problem was because ford is gone charge $140 a hour to see what the problem is. Need help also thanks
  • macprops did you get a fix for the above problem?

    "The door locks only work with the key in the ignition and when I start the car both the speedometer and rpm gage needles swing over to the extreme right, then settle back to the left. And lastly when I remove the keys from the ignition, the trip meter returns to zero. Any thoughts?"

    I am having the same issue
  • Hi Rek,

    Any luck resolving electrical issue?
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