Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Ford Escape Electrical Problems

24

Comments

  • itsmesolonitsmesolon Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    Quite often but not always when using the keyless entry my rear window pops open, does anyone have this problem...is this a known issue, I have a 2010 Escape Limited.
  • plumberseanplumbersean Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    2005 Ford Escape 2 wheel drive 3.0 v-6. Driving in traffic car shut off. Popped it in neutral, cranked back up. Once it cranked back up, it had an obvious miss, check engine light was on and the a/c wouldn't work ( I assume is part of the limp home mode ). Had the code read and it was P0353 coil C primary/secondary fail. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the coil on plug for that cylinder and all 6 plugs. Much to my dismay, problem was still present. Had some ford mechanics say it may be the pcm but at almost $800 for the pcm plus $100 to program it, it is more than I can afford to spend on a maybe. Has anyone here had a similar issue that you may be able to offer me some insight. Thanks

    -Sean
  • csealcseal Posts: 1
    Had the same problems and changed same things. It was the PCM I had it replaced and this fixed everthing. The PCM is under warrenty to 80,000 miles I only had 67,000. Ford replaced at no cost.There is one problem though I took it to Ford on Aug. 4th and was told wouldn't have part til Sept. 8th. The part did come in and got my Escape back Tues. Aug. 17th. PCM's are on back order.
  • i recently removed the factory 6disc radio to put in aftermarket one. My escape has 2 factory alarms installed and since i unhooked radio, the power locks will not work with the remote, none of the interior lights will work, and have no power in radio wires when i plug in new one. checked the fuses and all are good. all the other dash things work, heater,flasher,cig lighter. ect The alarm still works because i unhooked battery to try and reset and alarm sounded when battery re hooked. the power locks work when the key is turned on but any other time. I suspect there is something with the alarm being linked to the radio. Does anybody know how to reset or even disable the alarm. Also everytime i turn on the ignition, the spedo and the tach needle goes all the way to the right for about 2 seconds and then they return to normal. it also resets the trip odometer to zere every time i turn the key on. Any ideas?
  • kapakapa Posts: 1
    re: 2004 Ford Escape
    Where is the switch located (on the steering column) for the front windshield washer. I have no power to the front pump so I am assuming that the problem is with the switch connected to the washer arm on the steering column.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Pull towards you on the wiper stalk and that activates the front windshield washer pump.
  • I'm having this problem now. The alternator died in June on a cross country trip and we replaced it. Then 2 weeks ago it wouldn't start and AAA testing showed the voltage was really low so we replaced it again. Now after 2 days my battery light is coming on again. What ended up happening with your car?
  • Hello everyone,
    I have the same problem with my ford escape 2003. After i replaced the battery and the alternator inside the car anything would not turn on. Did u ever find out with the problem was because ford is gone charge $140 a hour to see what the problem is. Need help also thanks
  • macprops did you get a fix for the above problem?

    "The door locks only work with the key in the ignition and when I start the car both the speedometer and rpm gage needles swing over to the extreme right, then settle back to the left. And lastly when I remove the keys from the ignition, the trip meter returns to zero. Any thoughts?"

    I am having the same issue
  • Hi Rek,

    Any luck resolving electrical issue?
  • I am having the same problem; I'm trying to hook-up a new head unit. My 2003 Limited Escape has three plugs in back - i think two are for amp/sub. My car does the same thing since the unit has been removed. I am not aware why though..
  • It seems that all the escapes 2005 are starting to have this problems,I search about this issue and there is a lot of ford escape owners are upset with this including me,what I did is file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and believe me the more we complaint,the sooner Ford will start having a recall on this issue if you fix the problem just keep the receipts and probably get your money back,I paid almost $4000 and my car has only 74000 miles on it,by the way the phone number from NHTSA is 1-888-327-4236,I hope everyone starts to make those calls or do it online on www.nhtsa.gov click on search and on the next window click file a complaint ...
  • I have had the same issue with our 05 escape. Driving along all is fine and then the security light comes on the engine dies, just for a moment and then comes back on. Sometimes it can be rough especially if the gas pedal is pushed down. Only on a couple of occasions have I seen a check engine light come on. Each time we have had codes looked at there were none.

    I have also experienced the engine at low speed and rpms begin to rev much higher than normal. When shifted into neutral the engine reved up to almost 4k. Turned off the car and restarted it and all was normal.

    Have you seen this one before or any posts similar
  • Reading all of these posts, I connect with the "misfire" thing and possibly some type of electrical problem. So here's what's happened and what I've had done to date:

    Beginning December 2009, cruising on a highway, "Check engine lamp" plus " Service emissions system" warning appeared, and oddly enough, the red "Theft" lamp, along with the slightest hesitation. All lamps and warnings corrected themselves within seconds, then all seemed OK.

    A few days later, same thing happened. Only this time, the "Check engine lamp" stayed on. Went to Ford, and because I was then approaching 90K miles--my plugs being the 100k variety, and because diagnostics indicated misfiring on a rear cylinder, I, at the suggestion of the Ford guy, replaced all of the plugs and three rear coils--I elected to do this after consulting with the Ford Rep and reading much information online. I replaced only the "rear coils," because of the difficulty of access and labor involved. Ford was genuinely trying to save me a little cash here, though I wanted all six coils replaced.

    Comes April of 2010, I'm cruising along again, the lamps I mentioned above pop on again accompanied by really severe hesitation/misfiring. I limp over to a local Ford, his diagnostics show #4 cylinder misfiring. Ford guy changes coil--'cause I just had new 100K plugs installed--and all is wonderful.

    Then comes December 2010, the check engine lamp has been staying on again--no hesitation at all. I bring it in to Ford, they find that a "flex connector" at one end of a long section of elaborately shaped pipe that connects both to the manifold and the catalytic converter--oh oh!--needs replacing. Only thing is, Ford, so I was told, does not sell the flex piece alone, naturally. I must purchase the entire pipe--comes to over $700 bills.

    I test drive the vehicle after the repair, and it's very apparent I've lost about half the engine's power? Return to Ford, and here's the explanation: "The new pipe and flex pieces were now performing properly, i.e., holding in all of the engine's exhaust pressure. But now, because of what must surely be a "blockage" of some sort at most likely the entrance to the CAT, but possibly also in one of two other places along the entire exhaust system, the exhaust has to be taken apart and looked at if I'm to regain the engine's full power...jeesh! So, Ford does this stuff, tells me the CAT has gotten all messed up and another $700 dollars later all is ... well? Yeah, the Escape ran like new.

    So that's my saga, with one additional thing or so that I want to mention, because I'm thinking of calling the telephone number of that association a poster somewhere along this thread shared with us, just so I can get on the list for a possible recall of at least the 2005s. Here's why: There just might be a tie to either an electrical or computer problem that could be causing all of these issues. Some source of the problem versus the after effects such as mine. Which, I wouldn't be caring about were it not for the constant comments that I remember issued by all of the technicians I've spoken with over the years of fixing and replacing stuff of my Escape. These comments, too many times, related to some type of electrical issue(s). Hmmm...? This and the fact that--as it was explained to me by the Manager of the last Ford place I've visited and had the CAT replaced at--one smaller problem, if not corrected properly, will cause things like the misfiring, "gumming up of cylinders," destruction of additional components and pieces along the line in a seemingly endless mushroom effect. And finally, this is all I have to report! :confuse:
  • When driving, my car would create a high-pitched buzzing sound that fluctuated its pitch according to changes in gear. The car would then experience engine stall, particularly when slowing or accelerating after a stop. The theft, check engine, and ABS light would flash. The radio and headlights died. During this time a clicking noise could be heard. Within seconds, everything usually corrected itself. Occasionally the car would need to be restarted. Sometimes after these occurrences, the alarm would sound as soon as the key was removed from the ignition. The car would go months without this occurring and then the problem would return. This went on for two years.

    I took this vehicle to two Ford dealerships and a trusted auto repair shop. No one could seem to determine the true cause of the problems. I had the grounds cleaned, spark plugs replaced, spark plug wires replaced, and alternator replaced.

    At the urging of a friend, I finally brought my Escape to Midas. They correctly diagnosed and corrected the problem. Apparently, the person owning the Escape before me installed an after-warranty alarm system. The brand was Code Alarm. The alarm system was not compatible with my Escape's computer and was causing severe malfunctions. The alarm has since been removed and my car has not had problems since.
  • Nevermind. All problems have returned. Back to square one.
  • kmkrazykkmkrazyk Posts: 2
    Wow, this makes me sick. I am also a 2005 Ford Escape owner. I have replaced coils, the computer, etc etc etc. Today driving home from work my Theft light came on and dang near stopped my car in its tracks. It doesnt end. What I would like to know is at what point Ford does something about all of this!
  • You are the first person with a ton of googling research that is having one issue that parallels mine....did you find out what the issue is?
  • kmkrazykkmkrazyk Posts: 2
    Check carcomplaints.com and look up electrical issues with 2005 Ford Escape. There are hundreds of 2005 Escape owners with the same issues. I complained to Ford, the FTC and have heard nothing. Ford said sorry sucks but not our problem. $5,000 later I have nothing to show for it. Replaced computer, radio, coils, spark plugs etc. People need to start complaining so we can do something about this!
  • jt2184jt2184 Posts: 1
    The flashing light is telling you what is wrong. Count the number of times it flashes before a long pause. Mine was doing three then seven. If that is the same code, then you need to replace the connector under the passenger seat.
  • dcoomerdcoomer Posts: 2
    My dad gave me a 2002 escape that sat for awhile and I had to replace the battery. I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM AS YOU. No Radio, Dome Lights, Power Locks only work with key turned on, Trip meter resets, All dials swing from minimum to maximum and back. It's been over a year since you posted these issues. Did you find the solution? Any help would be great! Thanks.
  • This exact same issue happened with my daughter's '02 Escape after she disconnected the battery. Look in the fuse panel for the "ROOM" fuse. Replace it and your radio, dome lights and door locks should work again.
  • 2 Weeks ago I replaced my battery with a new one. I now have a dead battery again. Same issue with the old one. I can go a couple weeks and then all of a sudden I have a dead battery. The radio will also just randomly just turn off an on. Not sure if it is related. If the alternater is bad how can it go a couple of weeks before the battery drains?
  • Update on this issue. I recharged my battery two days ago and it went dead again this evening. My check engine indicator came on this morning. Later in the day after mulitiple on and off runs my abs light would go on and off. Later in the day the brake light would go on and off. I did not dare shut the engine off for fear it would not start again. I drove it home and parked and shut the engine off and tried to start it only to have a dead battery. I believe I have a bad relay in my alternator and it needs to be replaced. I do not have the equipment to test this I am just guessing at this point.
  • I have a '02 Escape XLT with these issues, but cannot find the "ROOM" fuse. Is it in the fusebox by the engine or by the feet of the driver? Is there another name for it?
  • hhmmhhmm Posts: 3
    Room fuse is 27 @ the feet of the driver, look right side of the fuse line. (Next bottom fuse on the right)
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    10A fuse next to the relays at the bottom of the fuse box inside the cabin on the driver side foot well.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I have my 04 Limited 4WD in the shop for the same problem. Alternator was bad (either from age or overworking to keep the battery charged) I had it replaced with Motorcraft (#GLV-8615-RM). Old Alternator was only charginf at 12.8V (below normal) new one is charging at 14V (normal). Battery is only one month old but if it sits battery goes dead. Voltmeter is hooked up and reading a draw of ~100 miliamps being drawn. Normal is below ~35 miliamps. If fuse #27 is removed (10A Room Fuse) miliamp draw dips into ~5-10 well below normal. Fuse #27 controls GEM module, instrument cluster, audio unit, data link connector. Disconnected radio and no change on draw. Awaiting update from my technician... I called a local Ford dealer, they say in some instances they have found a short in the harness between the driver's front door and the a-pillar or if sunvisors are illuminated in the harness between them and the roof. Does not make sense to me since fuse #27 does not seem to control either section but I thought i would throw that out there. I will update as info is available.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I took my Escape to my buddy that works at a Ford dealership. He ran tests on the electrical system and everything checked out great. The 100 miliamp draw only occurs for the first 45 mins after shutting off the truck. After the 45 minutes all modules go to sleep and the miliamp draw drops to 5 miliamps which is way below normal level. Escape is running great we will see if things are fixed with new alternator in place and new battery after a few days or weeks. Keeping fingers crossed.
  • My 2004 XLT has had the identical problem . Replaced the alternator, three batteries, GEM module. The Ford dealership service mgr. told me to hook up a charger all the time! I also had it to an independent shop, where the owner hooked up his meter on the amp scale and called .12 amps normal, when it was 120 ma. I retested when I returned home and the readings I got were 120 ma right after shutoff, and after 45 min. it dropped to 90 ma. Removing fuse 27 drops the ma to the normal range. I just have not found anyone knowledgeable to resolve my dilemma. Will post any new developments.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Well this is my wife's truck. So we already discussed the "battery tender" option. If it comes down to that to keep our battery charged we both agreed....Carmax here we come.
  • ruggieruggie Posts: 1
    '04 escape XLT 4wd / battery drain
    My son's Escape has the same battery drain issues that many of you are describing. It could sit for a week and start, or sit over night and not start. I don't want to just throw expensive parts and labor at this vehicle. I've done all the tests and everything points to fuse/circuit #27. I've spent 3 hrs a day for the last week on line looking for some definitive cause for a problem that probably exists on thousands of these vehicles. I've been told by three trusted mechanics in the last three days to get rid of it. 'Not an option at this time. PLEASE, someone help with some real answers/ free advice other than what I've already been told. Thanx
  • candijcandij Posts: 3
    My 2004 Ford Escape XLT started having issues about 2 weeks with the guages jumping all the way up and down. My battery light had come on flashing and the next day it was off. I had taken to the parts store and they tested it telling me my alternator was only charging 30 amps. should be 100. I took it to the mechanic they run a power system check, (starter, battery, and alternator) Their finding was that the alternator was bad. After having the new alternator put in the guages are still "freaking Out" Any Advise????
  • toadietoadie Posts: 3
    One thing I do not consistently see in these posts is the mode/bodyl type. My Escape is a 4WD v6 XL base model. I am having the faint glowing theft light, high-pitched whine that gets worse when accelerating, stalling out, radio buzzing, dash dials pegging out to max then going to normal, battery dying, air bag light flashing (3-7 at first, now 4-6 if I remember right) then staying on, turning the car off and then trying to immediately re-start and all I get is a click-click noise, etc, ect, ect.... I have replaced the battery twice, just had a top of the line new alternator put in. The high pitch whine is now barely audible but still there. My husband and I, on two different occasions, have each gone to start the car and it turns but doesn't catch, but after you try to start it about four times it finally does catch and start. I have not driven the car in over a week after it did the "try four times to start" thing. I went to start it today and it protested a little but did start. It was running rough so I turned it off and walked away. The airbag light is still flashing (4-6 I think). No check engine light YET. I am sooooo tired of this who-ha. I don't trust the car so I won't drive it. I was told that the ROOM fuse controlled electrical stuff associated with the XLS/XLT/Limited versions (lighted visors, power seats, etc.... All that good stuff I don't have). So, that may not be my problem. As I said in the beginning, I don't consistently see model types listed, so I have a hard time figuring out if we are all really discussing the same problems. Having written my dissertation on this, has anyone gotten more info yet?? thanks.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Sorry to hear your story. MY wife's Escape is a 2004 Escape Limited V6 4x4, and it was doing all of the above that you listed minus the radio buzzing but that may be because it has an aftermarket radio. I had the alternator replaced with a factory Motorcraft unit and the whine has gone away and everything is good (knocking on wood, fingers crossed) after 4 weeks. Everything seems to be back to normal. If you still have a whine, I would put my money on the "quality" alternator you got installed, it sounds like you may have gotten a faulty alternator. Hope this helps...
  • I have the same issue right now. I too have a 2004 escape and had a new alternator and battery put in a few months ago and all of a sudden the other day my gauges jumped around and I notice that at night when I accelerate the battery light comes on faintly but goes off when I let off the gas. If you get any answers please post and good luck! :)
  • I'm having the exact same problem!...Escape 2003 LTD. after replacing the alternator and the battery a few months ago, still have problems with it. I could event start the car this morning. Radio shutdown, light, ABS sensor was on, air bag always blinking 3-7 time, etc, etc... after trying for a couple time, finally the car started. When I accelarate the battery light comes on faintly and goes off when let of the gas. ELECTRICAL PROBLEM = FORD.
    I hope someone out there will find THE solution!
  • clearh2oclearh2o Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    My 2003 Ford Escape XLT (2WD, v6, 112k miles) is at the dealership again - literally, as I type, for some sort of ongoing electrical issue.

    My battery light came on a couple years ago. It randomly turns on and off. Only recently did I see something strange happening with the gauges. As of now I've been through at least one alternator and two batteries. It turns on an off while driving, while stopped, while devices are on (under load), and while devices are off.

    Took it in, they said it was a bad alternator. Had that replaced, went on my way, and less than a day later, the light was back on. Took it in again, this time, they blamed the battery. Had that replaced. Belts and connections look good according to the mechanic. They hooked up to the device that reads error codes...nothing showing. Alternator is new factory (not reman) and is now 16 months old. Battery is now two days old, but the light still turns on and odd. Solid - not a dim glow or anything like that.

    I sometimes convince myself I can affect whether the light is on or off by turning the Max AC on or off. I've often noticed that just tapping the brakes will often shut the light off...like it somehow changes the voltage or current and resets the sensor or something like that.

    Dealership had to drive the car 20 miles today just to see the light turn on and off and experience what I've been trying to tell them for 2 years. Usually they've just driven it around the lot and saw no problems (duh). Hopefully they find something this time around.

    I've been chasing this ghost for two years and haven't had any luck. It's been four trips to the dealer, and countless checks and double checks at stores that do the free testing of alternators and batteries for you.

    I feel like at some point we'll hit dumb luck and finally see that a fuse or something isn't seated correctly and is triggering the light. (I wish!!)

    I like my Escape...but it's going to cost me what's left of my hair and, if I keep buying new batteries and alternators, all of my savings!!!!!!
  • Clearh2o, what did your dealership find out? We have a 2000 XLT 4X4 V6 82K with the same issues. Replaced Alternator, belt with problems still existing. Thanks!
  • There is a connector under the passenger seat that comes undone all the time. I had to drive 6 miles of washboard gravel road each day and had to push it back together constantly. That worked though. I found the answer on a forum like this, it's a fairly common issue
  • I am not sure if this helps at all but, my cousin put mine on a tester, and he tells me that it is the ignition switch going bad that is causing the guages to jump around and such. However that is the least of my worries, It is now sitting in a shop needing at least 2 cat's and has 2 dead cylinders for some reason.. So frustrating. Good luck to you!! I will not purchase another Ford as long as I live!
  • I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0L. My mom bought it brand new from the dealership. A few years ago she was driving on the interstate about 65 mph and it just shut off completely! It cranked right back up, she took it somewhere the next day and (obviously) they said it was the battery. It did the same thing a few more times over the months. I bought it from her about a year ago. It shut off on me a few times within a week, then went months with not stalling out at all. Then it started the random stalling again, shutting off while driving every couple of weeks. Here in the past 6-8 weeks it has become a lot more frequent! It is usually at lower speeds, around 20 mph. It REALLY seems that about 70% of the time it dies while making a 90 degree turn, or literally just before the turn as I press the brakes to slow down (very crappy place to lose your power steering!) It has turned off in parking lots. It also shuts off just going straight, at low and high speeds. Every time this has happened, the lights on the dash flicker just as everything loses power. I put it into neutral and then restart it- usually I let the car slow down so I'm not shifing it into gear at a high speed. One instance about 3 weeks ago, and also one time last week, the car did its normal stall, but when I put it in D and cranked it back up, it immediately died again, and then again, and finally after the 3rd of 4th re-crank it stayed running. One of those instances was while stopped at a red light and the other was while making a right turn.
    I have been reading up a lot on this and it seems the most common things people have done are: replace battery, alternator, plugs & wires, coils, PCM. I just now read some stuff in the transmission category- I hadn't thought about that yet.
    Also the cruise control doesn't work. The buttons are fine and the green indicator light comes on on the instrument panel, but it does not actually stay at the speed when you set it.
    Just a few weeks ago I was driving it and the gas cap light and a few others came on then dimmed out, but the fuel cap light stayed on for a few minutes and went out; the dome lights came on and off once when the other lights flickered on. I don't know if it is all related to the stalling, but I hope and think so. My brother said one of the guys he works with had an escape that did a lot of the same stuff as mine and he changed the ignition switch and it fixed it.
    Is there anybody else that has had all or most of these same problems? Please Please Please let me know so I don't go through the long and expensive list of the possibilities. All information will be greatly appreciated. Besides everything I have said above, the car always starts fine from a cold crank no matter how long it sits. But one time I was using the CD player in the car for about 30 min without the engine and killed the battery! I thought that was odd. Last but not least, the car has stalled out with the AC on as well as Off. Somebody please help me pinpoint this issue!
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    I was going to suggest the ignition switch until I read your post further down...I would definately replace the ignition switch before you get into more expensive fixes.

    Part# 98AZ-11572-A
    MSRP $70.53
  • jlt3jlt3 Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    I can't believe Ford doesn't know what this is. We also have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT, V6, New battery, both the battery and the alternator test OK. In cool or cold weather, if it sits for more than 48 hours, it doesn't have enough battery power left to crank the starter and I have to hook up a charger. This is getting really old. Also from Arlington Heights Ford, and they haven't found a problem.

    Also, one other thing I wonder if we have in common - the dealer installed a remote starter for us when we bought the car (new).
  • I had the jumping gauges and engine felt like it would miss a few times when this happened. After doing major online research to fix the problem myself, I was unable to find a solution. I decided to just change out all of the spark plugs and coil packs before taking it to ford to run diagnostics. This repair solved the missing engine and the jumping gauges jump no more. The spark plugs were purchased from autozone for 3.10 each and the coil packs from AM-Autoparts.com for 72.00 for the set of 6, way cheaper than the oem's for 100 each. The complete changeover took me about 2 1/2 hours. There are very good instructions for the complete job here http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/article.php?id=281 .
    I hope that this will help others that have been having similar issues.
    Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me. - John 14:6
    Trust in The Lord
  • demonwizarddemonwizard Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    I had the same exact problem and it is simple to fix. What's happening is that the battery has a bad ground. The cable can be tight to the battery but can be loose some where else. Sometimes there is a smaller wire coming off the battery and is grounded to the fender well or some where thats a ground point. Get a test light or mutli meter and check your ground points.

    Tips: If you have a flashing engine light that means a mis fire.
    The light can sometimes come on and off. If you have an engine code and are un sure of it, let me know and I can tell you what exactly it is. Having being a Master ASE Certified Mechanic I will help you. Just email me at
    [email protected]
  • I have had sooo many problems as of late.

    It started with the Rear Parking indicator turning off when I shifted into reverse last year. Then the ABS light would flash and stay on for days at a time. (It's since stopped) Then the brake warning light came on, and still does randomly. (It's a solid light, doesn't change when I put the EB on.) Recently it has failed to keep a charge. (I was told it was a bad cell) I replaced the battery with one from my boyfriends Ford Mustang that was working perfectly. It worked for a day in my Escape, then the battery light came on. I had AutoZone run a test - they said it was stuck in "Open Phase." (I assumed alternator) I didn't want to drive it, so we moved the battery BACK into the Mustang At startup, the check engine light came on in his vehicle, and it stalled randomly. We had to buy a new battery for that. I fear purchasing a brand new battery if the escape is just going to make it useless. I've also read several forums with people having similar issues and replaced their alternators to no avail.

    There are all kinds of crazy small things have been happening since my battery problems started - all intermittent. Rough idles, dead battery, sputtering, cd player died, uneven shifting between gears. Other times it drives like a new car. It is driving me CRAZY.
  • Recent problem with my daughter's Escape. I personnally experienced this last night. All gauges go to full scale right and then back to the correct position (the problem has only happened while in motion). No other issues with any other items/components. The battery was replaced less than a year ago and I haven't had an opportunity to troubleshoot but was hoping to save hours of probing with a multimeter to see if there is a ground (or some other) problem. If you have found a solution to this problem please advise. If I discover my answer, I will post it for the rest of you (obviously, no guarantee that it will be the same solution though)...
  • toadietoadie Posts: 3
    My base model Escape does that gauge full tilt right then to zero then back to normal AND it not only does it to me but to my HUBBY TOO. Now he cannot tell me I am full of crap when I tell him about this problem. He has experienced it. When my car does this it is typically between 40 and 45 mph and typically soon after I have turned the car on and the motor is bogged down (low rpms like when starting up hill before the transmission kicks down a gear and the rpms go up). The car will jerk a little as if the motor is missing. Then boom, all needles peg out high, all go to zero, and then finally back to normal and the car is fine after that. I think I just need a new set of plugs and a good tune-up. I also just bought a Ford Focus so that pain in the [non-permissible content removed] Escape won't be in my driveway much longer. I put a new alternator on the car and a new battery so I don't think there is an electrical problem. :confuse: :sick:
  • I had the same issue. Read my post here escape_solved, "Ford Escape Electrical Problems" #98, 26 Dec 2011 9:13 pm . This worked for me and it is still running fine.
Sign In or Register to comment.