I can't speak to all your problems but the cruise control problem I have dealt with and personally fixed. If you know how to use a wrench and a zip tie you can fix this problem yourself. Go to this link - http://www.fordforum.com/forum/ford-escape-19/2003-ford-escape-cruise-control-no- t-working-6800/. I used it to fix mine. I can't believe that car companies get away with this kind crap and still pull a profit off of suckers like us. Thankfully for us there are forums like this to help us all... Best of luck.
I'm not having any problems with "missing" but the vehicle has over 150K so I don't think your solution is a bad idea but I'm not so keen on spending $100 and probably 4 hrs of my life (I've never done this and the link doesn't address things step by step, when you don't know where they're located and what they look like) on a one time sucess (no insult intended). Other solutions have been posted so what makes you so sure this will correct my situation (why couldn't it be the bad ground mentioned in other posts)? Any additional information will be appreciated (how long ago did you do this, any complications, etc.?). Working on a 1988 LeBaron steering column this weekend so no big rush since this hasn't created a safety problem (yet). Thanks. If I proceed with your current recommendation I will post photos of the process as I hope to improve on what is available to date...
Hello; Anyone have a problem with the defrost grid peeling off. Ford refuses to fix under warranty. Grid paint is literally peeling and falling off. Ford digital imaging people just say its not covered. Frustrated in Hartland; earl 16
the 2005 escape alternator 3pin conector's center pin may be backiing out of position causing the battery light to come on after 5 seconds or more of running. the fix is to replace the conector.
Sounds like the main ground from the battery to the motor (two part test) you can check it by testing the voltage at the battery with the vehicle running and the test leads on the positive and negative terminals respectively, then turn the vehicle off using a set of jumper cables, the black lead only place one end on the negative terminal and the other end on a clean metal surface on the motor start the vehicle and read the voltage again. If the main ground has a poor connection supplementing it with the jumper cable should allow the alternator to supply the correct voltage to the battery and all of the accesories you may even see a couple sparks if you do the connecting while the vehicle is running (not recommended) If the first voltage was less than the second repair/replace the ground wire or its connections
I have the same thing going on in my 2004. Did you ever figure out what to do? If anyone had some info on this it would be great because it is pretty flipping annoying not being able to see anything in the dark.
OK. My base model 2003 Escape was acting up as I had explained in earlier posts. The alternator had gone bad so we replaced it, along with the battery just to be safe. The car then started missing really badly, especially when going uphill at a steady speed or when it was raining. So, taking the lead from another forum poster in this group, off to the shop it went. The motor does not have spark plug wires I learned. The coil packs (one for each valve) were going bad, eg cracked, and could short out the car thus shutting it off. The car has 130,000+ miles on it. The shop replaced all spark plugs and two of the coil packs. When I picked the car up to take it home I got about 1 mile away and the missing started again. Back to the shop and the computer indicated yet another coil pack had gone bad. So, we asked that ALL coil packs (~$85.00 each, ain't cheap folks) be changed. I pick the car up tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix it. The Escape has been a super car. Hopefully.... Hopefully....
My 03's gauges started jumping intermittently at first, then after a couple of weeks it became much more often. MPG went downhill very quickly also. It finally threw a code for cylinder 3 ( of course one way in the back) so I replaced that coil pack (and all plugs while I was in there) all gauges now work fine, mileage back up to normal. I spoke to 2 different mechanics, one wanted to replace the whole instrument cluster and the other the VSS. Both dead wrong. Neither solution explained mileage problem. Many thanks to "escape solved" for posting. PS: There are great utube vids for how to take off manifold to get to coil packs/plugs. Took about a hour and a half
Back in Jan. I had a post and was not convinced changing out the coil packs would solve the instrument panel problems but changed them, the spark plugs, and the manifold gaskets (around $600) and a few hours of my time. It's my daughter's vehicle and haven't had the original problem since then. I suppose I could have saved some money by figuring out which coil pack was bad but with over 150K on the odomiter it seemed worth replacing it all. If anyone is unsure about this fixing the problem with the instrument panels then I'm proof that it works. I too wish to thank "escape solved" for the information provided! Best of luck to all who tackle this problem. If you do, check the connection for the cruise control while you're in there...
I jump start my 08 ford escape no problems, and my satellite radio module fry's so the dealer says. The jump start did not even blow a 5 amp fuse !!! in the radio is this Possible ? The radio plays fine just no satellite radio, I did try to reset the satellite per some tech I called but no luck any Ideas ? Thanks
WOW! I just felt the heavens open up and finally don't feel so stupid!!! My 2004 Escape XLT has been doing the same thing. Yippee, I'm not alone, although sorry for everyone's same issues.
Mine started about a year ago when my car began to shutter, shake and rock n roll. It finally did it when the service manager was there so he could see what it was doing. As a woman you always feel that eye of the man thinking we don't know anything. (shaking my head now)
They had my car for 2 days, and found that a coil wire leading from the battery down to some other part had burned out two solenoids or something to that effect that was causing the shaking of the car. So, they replaced the coil wire and off I went. Then that's when this battery light issue kept coming on.
I went the next day and had Autozone test my battery. They said the battery was fine as well as the alternator. I went back into Ford, and they suggested it could be the battery because now the battery is testing bad. I told them Autozone just tested it and they said it was fine.
Ford's service manager said, they (Autozone) don't have the right battery equipment that Ford has. Like OK, whatever, don't buy it, but fine. I said, go ahead and replace the battery. Yes, I know could have gotten it less expensive elsewhere, just wanted their battery so they couldn't say, it was the "other businesses fault" causing the issue or bad battery.
Guess what, the Ford battery was in place and the stinking light came on again not more than 5 seconds after they replaced the battery and I was at the stop light. Grrr, I said, Grrr.
I turned around back to the Quickland and the service manager said well maybe it's the alternator. Yes, another $400.00 they wanted to charge me with, only as a guessing issue.
After having my car in there for 2 days, then another day for them to look at it again. I said, give me my car keys and I left a little upset by this time.
I went to my friends mechanic who works on any car. He tested the alternator, tested it again, it kept coming back fine. He let it sit, tested it again, alternator was fine. He tried to duplicate the failed test like the dealer found, he couldn't duplicate it. So, the friends mechanic kept the car over night to see if it tested differently in the morning. No, still alternator was fine, ignition was fine, everything was fine. In fact, he said, my car is so clean, doesn't see anything wrong with it and suggested that I do NOT put a new alternator in because I didn't need it!! What??!!! I exclaimed. You are telling me it doesn't need an alternator and you're not trying to upsell me? He laughed and said No, you don't need it and I'm not in the business to steal from people. Found out later, he has his business only to tinker on cars so he can drag race, his passion is cars and helping people. Loved this man!! LOL
That was about 6 months ago. My solution, I put a little business card over the battery light and I don't see it any more. Haven't had any problems with my car until I got the recall letter regarding the cruise control.
You'll all like this one. I just took it in today 8/23/12 for the newest recall regarding the cruise control issue.
The service advisor opened my hood and said, "Ummm". I asked what did that mean. He said, I'm missing my engine cover. I said, "What?" How on earth is that missing? I never look under my hood and Quick Lane always does the servicing, so you better check with them."
He, said I'll be back, and the service manager I've dealt with for years from Quick Lane came over with the advisor and was shocked too. He said, "In fact come to think of it, I don't remember it ever seeing one. But I will get one for you. That should arrive in about a week."
So, waiting for engine cover, and they disconnected my cruise control, which actually would have been OK, since the cover was the problem with the cruise control and I didn't have an engine cover for it to hang up on. Gezzzz..lol
My Dad, a Chevy man always said, Ford stood for, Fix Or Repair Daily, and my daughter gives me a ration of poo about my car that I should buy a Chevy or a Toyota. So, although I love my Escape. I'm thinking towards Toyota.
Is there a way we can all get together and file some kind of an alert with the safety commission or something regarding this issue?
Otherwise, keep us up to date and safe travels everyone...
I have a 02 Ford Escape and the battery drains and the brake light on the console is on but dim but when I use the left turn signal the brake light flashes along with the turn signal. Autozone could not find any issues. Does anyone have anything similar that you would know the cause for this problem
My car is ford escape 2005, recently, It had has problem: both indicator: "battery" and "airbag" indicated at the same time, first I think battery or alternator problem but I think all are still OK because I can start engine even leave it overnight and day by day. everyone can help me to define the problem, is it may from electric wire/jack lossen?
I recently bought a 2003 Ford Escape Limited with 60,000 miles in mint condition. I noticed that the gear indicator light on the panel isn't lit....I had to turn on the interior lamp light to see it. everything else on the panel lights up just fine. I called the salesman who told me that his friend's Escape had the same condition. It doesn't make sense to me. I need to know ASAP what I should do. I have only had the car for a couple of days, and I can take it to the dealership and have them service it if it's a problem worth addressing. Otherwise, I can live with the symptom because it's a great car for 10 years old. And I got an excellent deal.
You know, they dropped the instrument panel gear indicator in the 2008 model refresh, which tells me it isn't really that important. If you car is going into gear fine, I would just let it go. If there is any indication of transmission trouble, then have it looked at.
AC wasn't getting cold. My son brought car in for repairs. First they said bad gasket. Now they are saying "major electrical problems not covered by warranty." I've never heard this on a car that is 1 year old. It has never been offroad, has no modifications, kept clean and shiny. all regular service. I called Ford customer service line, and they said depending on the part it might not be covered, even if it's an internal electrical or mechanical component, even if no abuse, damage, etc. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing? How can they say it's bumper to bumper warranty. I've had many. many cars, and been driving for 30 years, including other Fords that have needed major repairs, and I've never heard this said before. I'm dumbfounded.
Unless they are proposing that the car has been damaged by accident or the weather.... or, because of lack of regular maintenance, then I don't see how it could be uncovered... :confuse:
Car has a little over 14,000 miles, not even a scratch. Still waiting for a fix. They replaced some parts but still saying some type of electrical issue.
Now they say electrical problems fixed but car needs evaporator, which they say is not a warranty item? How can this be? They agree car not damaged or abused. Are they just ripping me off?
"Now they say electrical problems fixed but car needs evaporator, which they say is not a warranty item? How can this be? They agree car not damaged or abused. Are they just ripping me off? "
First, the vehicle has a bumper to bumper warranty for 3 years, 36K. The only exception is for wear and tear items and damage/neglect. Unless they are claiming one of those two, I don't see how it cannot be covered under the warranty.
Second, most states have lemon laws. Here in CA, if the vehicle is out of service for 30 days (total, not at once), or in more than three times for the same repair in the first year of ownership, then the dealer is required to take the vehicle back. Research the lemon laws in your locale and be proactive - and let the dealer know you are doing it. That will light a fire under them.
I have had issue with my Ford escape for the past year and I thought I would share because it was the weirdest issue. My battery started draining overnight and while I was at work so I would have to jump it to go work and jump it to get home. If I started it everyday it seemed to ease the issue but really the car spent more time parked then on the road. In addition the gear indicator always showed that I was in D1 as opposed to drive. This past week I was at the point I was going to take it into Ford and it thought I will go over the car one more time before I have to spend a lot of money for troubleshooting an electrical issue. I started pulling out fuses and using a voltmeter. Well as I kept getting out of the car closing the doors and waiting for the lights to go out I noticed the dome light cover was really dusty underneath so I took off the cover and notice that there was brown burn mark above the light bulb. The light bulb was still working normally but when I removed this bulb not only did my phantom battery disappear but also the gear indicator for the transmission corrected itself. 2 issues fixed because of a light bulb. I don't know why but it worked. I can only guess that the light bulb was defective and causing all the issues. So since it has been so much of a headache to me I thought I would post this in case it helps someone the time and aggravation. Did I mention I had to call a tow truck 3 times after getting stuck with a dead battery? Good luck!
Geeze, amazing the hassle a little bulb like that can cause. Thanks for the post; someone is very likely to find it searching for their phantom battery drain issue.
I have a 06 escape that was giving me fits. The batt light kept comming on and discharging my battery, then the car would not even try to start. I changed 3 alternators , new belt, new computer still not help. These NEW cars are not friendly to people that like to work on their vehicles, howeber I think I may have a fix for this at least. Ford has a history of the neg side to cable from the battery losing continunity with either def wiring or oxidation causing no connections to the engine for starting and charging. possible fix: under the battery the neg side of cable is tied to the frame and thus supposed to be to the engine also. Buy a battery cable from big box store, connect one end to the same lug and the other end under the engine to the bottom bolt of the starter. This will ground the starter and the alternator since they both are attached to the block. Hope this helps
Ford has a history of grounding problems, follow the neg side of batt to side terminal of vehicle. Go and purchase a two ended battery cable from auto box stores, one that has open terminals on each end, abour $10. place one side on the vehicle terminal and the other to the bolt holding the starter on the engine. This should give you start all the time and the alternator a good ground to power the vehicle . Hope this helps
My fiances 2004 Ford Escape is having the same issues described, battery is draining and will not allow car to start randomly, often her car will not start after getting gas for 20-30 minutes, ca stereo will not shut off unless done manually, air bag light goes on and off and now the car alarm does not work. I am not getting any error codes or check engine lights on either.
I have had all spark plugs replaced recently as well.
After a lot of research and testing here is what I have found.
Solutions: 1.I had battery, starter and alternator tested for free at O'Reilly's Auto Parts with no issues found. Auto Zone does testing free too. 2. I had my mechanic tell me to check the under dash fuse box by the drivers left foot alongside the door as my fuses looked corroded. I took fuse box off and apart tonight, took hour and a half total, and found severe corrosion to the fuses and especially to the internal circuit board. I am in the process of replacing the fuse box to see if this solves the issue. I found one used on ebay. I think this issue may be related to the negative battery cable issue described as well but not sure? 3. I was told the car alarm is known to short and wires can corrode and cross causing electrical issues and battery to drain as well. I am in the process of disconnecting the alarm to see if it makes a difference.
I will let you know the results but will not be taking it to Ford for repairs or buying another Ford.
I recently took my 2003 Ford Escape (5 speed stick) in to have the AC repaired. I had taken it in last year about the same time and was told I needed a new compressor. (I chose not to have it fixed because I just didn't have the money.) This time however (at the same place) they told me my compressor was fine, but that it wasn't getting any electrical charge. They said they cleaned out my fuse box because it was corroded. Today, my daughter was driving the car and it wouldn't start. She said she had been using the AC, so she stopped and the car was running, but that she still needed to get a jump in order to get it to start. I haven't been using the AC myself, because after a year of not having it, I actually prefer the fresh air and the windows down.
My question is, Should I take it back to the shop that did the AC, should I take it to the dealer, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in electrical? I've been reading through the posts on the 2003 Ford Escape and it seems to have more than one electrical issue... although I didn't find a post (yet) where the electrical is tied to the AC.
hello i,m in the same boat as a few others with the ford escape problem .... my fix was changed out the ignition switch .fixed it right away ... think as too how many different things are attivated by just turning on the key ...65.00 fix talked too my electrical guru and as for the miss in the engine when did you change the plugs last .taking off the plenim is the most of the work too get to the back 3 plugs .they lean out around 2500.3.000 rpm .ok too al for now
My 2001 Escape XLS has the same problem. The battery is completely dead after a week. We used to drive the car everyday and we did not have these problems. We now use this car as a backup and the battery keeps draining. The dealership replaced the battery, and I am still having the same problems.
I will be installing a knife switch to cutoff the battery when the car is in storage. I do not want to invest a ot of time or money into this.
I tried a solar panel, but evidently the rate of discharge is much higher than the few amps that the solar panel can produce.
I've had my 2008 Escape for 4yrs. The dashboard is usually lit up like a x-mas tree with the abs/emergency break/traction light (which don't seem to cause a problem). The newest addition on the dash is the orange wrench light which is accompanied with an erratic/high idle which is affecting the performance. It starts up no problem and idles at 2000/mph, goes into gear (drive) no problem however when I accelerate it idles between 3500-4000/mph before kicking into gear which is obviously too high. It will eventually kick into gear itself at 4000/mph or if I ease off the gas. Also, I attempted to bring it up to 100km/h and it was continuously idling at 3000/mph. My husband topped up the transmission fluid which was slightly low and no change. I have been neglectful in having the oil changed however we keep it topped up - would that even be a factor with this situation?
My key off current drain was found to be the GEM module, which is located under the center console. This went on for a number of years until I took it to a service manager who had the same problem and was familiar with it and actually understood what I was talking about. The GEM module controls a number of items. What is a Generic Electronic Module?
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is found on Ford vehicles and is basically a Body Control Computer. It controls many of the following functions on most Ford vehicles:
Warning chimes and warning lamps One-touch down driver's side window Daytime Running Lamps Heated rear window Windshield washers and wipers Battery saver Remote keyless entry Illuminated entry with remote keyless entry Interior lighting Perimeter anti-theft Four-wheel drive . About 40 minutes After you turn off the key and interior lights it's supposed to go in to standby mode which reduces the key off current to approx. 25 ma. Mine was staying at about 90 ma thereby draining my battery in approx. 10 days. When they install a new one or a used one it must be programmed so it has to be done at the ford dealer. After years of replacing batteries, alternator and keeping the battery hooked up to a charger mine finally is working properly. Hope this helps as not all symptoms are the same fix. Two Independent garages and the first Ford dealer couldn't figure it out. I was at the point of trading it.
Drove it last Tuesday. Everything fine. Thursday night horrible beeping noise, it was the radar detector flashing "Low Voltage". And dome light was flashing. Pulled the radar detector. Charged the battery the next day. Started that night. Wouldn't start the next day. Found that the radio was coming on after the car was shut off. It's the original Ford radio. Has a mind of its own. That is what was draining the battery. Have now pulled the fuse for the radio. But now, the cruise control sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. The dash lights where the radio is now flash on and off when the right turn signal is on. And the remote locks the doors, but will not arm the alarm. This happened in TWO DAYS. I don't know what's going on. Can you help me?
Alright my mom bought me a 2001 Ford Escape XLT in May of 2012. Car worked perfectly fine till she had borrowed it one day in July 2012. Still don't really understand what happened to it but it had to be towed and was taken to this shady repair shop. Ended up putting $6000 into fixing it their over the course of July 2012 till april 2013 (On and off) had the engine, transmission rebuilt, new alternator, spark plugs, battery, air compressor, belt. Pretty much everything in this car has been fixed, rebuilt or brand new. Now its to the point Its getting really dangerous (since its winter in Michigan) My car will drive perfectly fine for weeks or months at a time and it dies. It started in April of this year (2013) This is what happens ritually, everytime. First the radio whether I have it on or off the clock is still on, the radio will turn on and off then stay off for good, then at some point the ac/heat goes, the lights in my car will dim as well, then the ABS light will turn on and off, then off for good, next; the Passenger Airbag light will come on. Then I usually have anywhere from 1-5 minutes till it dies. The car will start reving and going slower (don't really have too much control of speed at this point), then I lose all control of speed, and then my power steering will go right before it dies. -Occaisonally though all of the gears will be boxed as if I have it in every gear, but that doesn't happen often. my car will die on average 3-4 times a month if im lucky. but I did go 2 1/2 months without a problem till October it started up again. This past week it has died on me 3 times. Very rarely will it start up after this happens. Though a few times ive waited about 30 mintues to an hour and it has started up fine. 95% of the time though it takes about 30 minutes of having my dad charge it up with his car to get it to start and allow me to get home. sooo.. if anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated !!
My clock was staying on when my car was off. After two weeks on the internet researching, I found that it might be the accessory relay. It is in the fuse box to the right of the fuses, right in the middle. I have a 2004 Ford Escape. I used part Standard V13081 RY612. It cost about $15. It worked.
We have a 2004 Escape 4x4 xlt. Our dome light will not go out and our door ajar light (which is a picture of a car, and it's all red and there is no indication which door is ajar) is not going out either. Has anyone had this problem.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape. Last winter I had problems with the battery and as the vehicle was over 4 years old I figured I need a new battery. I had it replaced and thing were fine for a month or so. Then, I went out one day and new battery was dead. I went back to the place I bought it; they gave me a loner battery, kept mine for a few days and determined the problem was not the battery but that there was a draw from something else draining the battery. I had a diagnostic done and it was determined that the main draw was from the instrument cluster - mainly fuse #26 which is attached to the anti-theft device. But, they also thought that perhaps there were phantom draws as well but could not determine exactly from where. I contacted Ford Canada and asked if they could do something for me. This was back in late May or early June. As yet (mid October) I have not heard from them. The company that did the diagnostic said I could have the circuit (cluster) replaced but he would not guarantee that this would eliminate the problem. The only way I can counter-act the problem is to attach a trickle charger to my battery every night. Bit of a pain! So, I am looking for suggestions??? Should I just go ahead an replace the circuit (cluster?) -Thanks
Have a 2006 escape with 290k miles. Bought new and no big issues other than basic wear and tear. Recently when I go to turn the key to start, nothing happens, it just sits and if I keep it turned it then just suddenly starts. If engine is warm it doesn't happen. Typically after it sits for several hours. Sometime it will start after 2 seconds and sometime I could have the key turned for 5-6 seconds and then it turns over and starts. So the question is: starter? Relay? Ignition switch? Or wire connectivity? Thanks!
Here's a response from a auto technician on another website about a similar problem on a Lexus:
"Sounds like the starter contacts are sticking then. Before replacing the starter I recommend you perform 1 quick test. Look at the starter, there are 2 wires going to it, the big fat wire is the constant hot wire from the battery that provides high current to turn the starter motor, be sure that the connection is clean and tight. The small wire that "plugs" in is the signal wire that is powered when in the "start" position to engage the starter solenoid, when you turn the key to "start" you should have power to this small wire, if you do have power here and no starter response then YES you have a starter issue."
And (this is me again...) if you get no power to the small wire when you are turning the key to start, then I would suspect the ignition switch or a connection to it.
Have a 2006 escape with 290k miles. Bought new and no big issues other than basic wear and tear. Recently when I go to turn the key to start, nothing happens, it just sits and if I keep it turned it then just suddenly starts. If engine is warm it doesn't happen. Typically after it sits for several hours. Sometime it will start after 2 seconds and sometime I could have the key turned for 5-6 seconds and then it turns over and starts. So the question is: starter? Relay? Ignition switch? Or wire connectivity? Thanks!
We have a 2001 escape and it was idling when it quit. It would burl a little. We changed the starter and it still will not start. Does anyone have any suggestions
Is anything happening when you try to start it? Is the starter turning the engine over? "It would burl a little" a typo? Not sure what you mean by that. Is it making any noise when you turn the key?
No noise at all when you turn the key. When we tried to start it it would burl a little but then you could hear a click under dash you tried to start it. We put another starter on it today and it still won't start but when u turn the key on to start it it clicks under the dash
CandiJ, I can explain what happened to your vehicle. The valves have burnt out the seats and are allowing the fuel to reach the cat where it gets hotter and melts the cat. My mechanic says the vehicle runs at such a low rpm that the crud doesn't get burned out of the cylinders anymore. I saw my valves and they were definitly covered in crud. Poor design, vehicle is a 2010 and had 120,000 kms on it.
I have a 09 escape. When the air conditioner is on, it will randomly kill when I come to a stop (usually at red lights and stop signs) and no one seems to have any answers as to why. Has anyone dealt with anything similar? I currently have 86k miles.
Does it stop blowing completely or just stop blowing cold air?
Since you said it will randomly kill, I'm assuming that means just shutting off. The only condition you say it happens under is when you come to a stop, so it could be some kind of electrical power connection problem. Something like a power connector that might be going bad or a cracked wire that moves when you stop and disconnects the power.
Similar kind of issue...06 Escape FWD, 6 L Battery drain issues..... Hi, Battery drain ghost problems following an ODBII Test with an Elm327 & Android phone. 6 cd Stereo has been cycling since I replaced the battery and it’s still draining somewhere??
Great vid. I think 1st I'll double check the ground & maybe tie a new one to an area on or near the the starter. I'll test for drainage via the fuses & failing that maybe add a toggle switch for the battery...Tks again..
Comments
I used it to fix mine. I can't believe that car companies get away with this kind crap and still pull a profit off of suckers like us. Thankfully for us there are forums like this to help us all... Best of luck.
the fix is to replace the conector.
The radio plays fine just no satellite radio, I did try to reset the satellite per some tech I called but no luck any Ideas ?
Thanks
My 2004 Escape XLT has been doing the same thing. Yippee, I'm not alone, although sorry for everyone's same issues.
Mine started about a year ago when my car began to shutter, shake and rock n roll. It finally did it when the service manager was there so he could see what it was doing. As a woman you always feel that eye of the man thinking we don't know anything. (shaking my head now)
They had my car for 2 days, and found that a coil wire leading from the battery down to some other part had burned out two solenoids or something to that effect that was causing the shaking of the car. So, they replaced the coil wire and off I went. Then that's when this battery light issue kept coming on.
I went the next day and had Autozone test my battery. They said the battery was fine as well as the alternator. I went back into Ford, and they suggested it could be the battery because now the battery is testing bad.
I told them Autozone just tested it and they said it was fine.
Ford's service manager said, they (Autozone) don't have the right battery equipment that Ford has. Like OK, whatever, don't buy it, but fine. I said, go ahead and replace the battery. Yes, I know could have gotten it less expensive elsewhere, just wanted their battery so they couldn't say, it was the "other businesses fault" causing the issue or bad battery.
Guess what, the Ford battery was in place and the stinking light came on again not more than 5 seconds after they replaced the battery and I was at the stop light. Grrr, I said, Grrr.
I turned around back to the Quickland and the service manager said well maybe it's the alternator. Yes, another $400.00 they wanted to charge me with, only as a guessing issue.
After having my car in there for 2 days, then another day for them to look at it again. I said, give me my car keys and I left a little upset by this time.
I went to my friends mechanic who works on any car. He tested the alternator, tested it again, it kept coming back fine. He let it sit, tested it again, alternator was fine. He tried to duplicate the failed test like the dealer found, he couldn't duplicate it. So, the friends mechanic kept the car over night to see if it tested differently in the morning. No, still alternator was fine, ignition was fine, everything was fine. In fact, he said, my car is so clean, doesn't see anything wrong with it and suggested that I do NOT put a new alternator in because I didn't need it!! What??!!! I exclaimed. You are telling me it doesn't need an alternator and you're not trying to upsell me? He laughed and said No, you don't need it and I'm not in the business to steal from people. Found out later, he has his business only to tinker on cars so he can drag race, his passion is cars and helping people. Loved this man!! LOL
That was about 6 months ago. My solution, I put a little business card over the battery light and I don't see it any more. Haven't had any problems with my car until I got the recall letter regarding the cruise control.
You'll all like this one.
I just took it in today 8/23/12 for the newest recall regarding the cruise control issue.
The service advisor opened my hood and said, "Ummm".
I asked what did that mean. He said, I'm missing my engine cover.
I said, "What?" How on earth is that missing? I never look under my hood and Quick Lane always does the servicing, so you better check with them."
He, said I'll be back, and the service manager I've dealt with for years from Quick Lane came over with the advisor and was shocked too.
He said, "In fact come to think of it, I don't remember it ever seeing one. But I will get one for you. That should arrive in about a week."
So, waiting for engine cover, and they disconnected my cruise control, which actually would have been OK, since the cover was the problem with the cruise control and I didn't have an engine cover for it to hang up on. Gezzzz..lol
My Dad, a Chevy man always said, Ford stood for, Fix Or Repair Daily, and my daughter gives me a ration of poo about my car that I should buy a Chevy or a Toyota. So, although I love my Escape. I'm thinking towards Toyota.
Is there a way we can all get together and file some kind of an alert with the safety commission or something regarding this issue?
Otherwise, keep us up to date and safe travels everyone...
everyone can help me to define the problem, is it may from electric wire/jack lossen?
thankrs.
binbin
Unless they are proposing that the car has been damaged by accident or the weather.... or, because of lack of regular maintenance, then I don't see how it could be uncovered... :confuse:
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First, the vehicle has a bumper to bumper warranty for 3 years, 36K. The only exception is for wear and tear items and damage/neglect. Unless they are claiming one of those two, I don't see how it cannot be covered under the warranty.
Second, most states have lemon laws. Here in CA, if the vehicle is out of service for 30 days (total, not at once), or in more than three times for the same repair in the first year of ownership, then the dealer is required to take the vehicle back. Research the lemon laws in your locale and be proactive - and let the dealer know you are doing it. That will light a fire under them.
Ford has a history of the neg side to cable from the battery losing continunity with either def wiring or oxidation causing no connections to the engine for starting and charging.
possible fix: under the battery the neg side of cable is tied to the frame and thus supposed to be to the engine also. Buy a battery cable from big box store, connect one end to the same lug and the other end under the engine to the bottom bolt of the starter. This will ground the starter and the alternator since they both are attached to the block. Hope this helps
I have had all spark plugs replaced recently as well.
After a lot of research and testing here is what I have found.
Solutions:
1.I had battery, starter and alternator tested for free at O'Reilly's Auto Parts with no issues found. Auto Zone does testing free too.
2. I had my mechanic tell me to check the under dash fuse box by the drivers left foot alongside the door as my fuses looked corroded. I took fuse box off and apart tonight, took hour and a half total, and found severe corrosion to the fuses and especially to the internal circuit board. I am in the process of replacing the fuse box to see if this solves the issue. I found one used on ebay. I think this issue may be related to the negative battery cable issue described as well but not sure?
3. I was told the car alarm is known to short and wires can corrode and cross causing electrical issues and battery to drain as well. I am in the process of disconnecting the alarm to see if it makes a difference.
I will let you know the results but will not be taking it to Ford for repairs or buying another Ford.
My question is, Should I take it back to the shop that did the AC, should I take it to the dealer, or should I take it to a shop that specializes in electrical? I've been reading through the posts on the 2003 Ford Escape and it seems to have more than one electrical issue... although I didn't find a post (yet) where the electrical is tied to the AC.
I will be installing a knife switch to cutoff the battery when the car is in storage. I do not want to invest a ot of time or money into this.
I tried a solar panel, but evidently the rate of discharge is much higher than the few amps that the solar panel can produce.
The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) is found on Ford vehicles and is basically a Body Control Computer. It controls many of the following functions on most Ford vehicles:
Warning chimes and warning lamps
One-touch down driver's side window
Daytime Running Lamps
Heated rear window
Windshield washers and wipers
Battery saver
Remote keyless entry
Illuminated entry with remote keyless entry
Interior lighting
Perimeter anti-theft
Four-wheel drive . About 40 minutes After you turn off the key and interior lights it's supposed to go in to standby mode which reduces the key off current to approx. 25 ma. Mine was staying at about 90 ma thereby draining my battery in approx. 10 days. When they install a new one or a used one it must be programmed so it has to be done at the ford dealer. After years of replacing batteries, alternator and keeping the battery hooked up to a charger mine finally is working properly. Hope this helps as not all symptoms are the same fix. Two Independent garages and the first Ford dealer couldn't figure it out. I was at the point of trading it.
We have a 2004 Escape 4x4 xlt. Our dome light will not go out and our door ajar light (which is a picture of a car, and it's all red and there is no indication which door is ajar) is not going out either. Has anyone had this problem.
-Thanks
"Sounds like the starter contacts are sticking then. Before replacing the starter I recommend you perform 1 quick test. Look at the starter, there are 2 wires going to it, the big fat wire is the constant hot wire from the battery that provides high current to turn the starter motor, be sure that the connection is clean and tight. The small wire that "plugs" in is the signal wire that is powered when in the "start" position to engage the starter solenoid, when you turn the key to "start" you should have power to this small wire, if you do have power here and no starter response then YES you have a starter issue."
And (this is me again...) if you get no power to the small wire when you are turning the key to start, then I would suspect the ignition switch or a connection to it.
Since you said it will randomly kill, I'm assuming that means just shutting off. The only condition you say it happens under is when you come to a stop, so it could be some kind of electrical power connection problem. Something like a power connector that might be going bad or a cracked wire that moves when you stop and disconnects the power.
Not a lot to go on...
Hi, Battery drain ghost problems following an ODBII Test with an Elm327 & Android phone.
6 cd Stereo has been cycling since I replaced the battery and it’s still draining somewhere??