Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
-Sean
Where is the switch located (on the steering column) for the front windshield washer. I have no power to the front pump so I am assuming that the problem is with the switch connected to the washer arm on the steering column.
I have the same problem with my ford escape 2003. After i replaced the battery and the alternator inside the car anything would not turn on. Did u ever find out with the problem was because ford is gone charge $140 a hour to see what the problem is. Need help also thanks
"The door locks only work with the key in the ignition and when I start the car both the speedometer and rpm gage needles swing over to the extreme right, then settle back to the left. And lastly when I remove the keys from the ignition, the trip meter returns to zero. Any thoughts?"
I am having the same issue
Any luck resolving electrical issue?
I have also experienced the engine at low speed and rpms begin to rev much higher than normal. When shifted into neutral the engine reved up to almost 4k. Turned off the car and restarted it and all was normal.
Have you seen this one before or any posts similar
Beginning December 2009, cruising on a highway, "Check engine lamp" plus " Service emissions system" warning appeared, and oddly enough, the red "Theft" lamp, along with the slightest hesitation. All lamps and warnings corrected themselves within seconds, then all seemed OK.
A few days later, same thing happened. Only this time, the "Check engine lamp" stayed on. Went to Ford, and because I was then approaching 90K miles--my plugs being the 100k variety, and because diagnostics indicated misfiring on a rear cylinder, I, at the suggestion of the Ford guy, replaced all of the plugs and three rear coils--I elected to do this after consulting with the Ford Rep and reading much information online. I replaced only the "rear coils," because of the difficulty of access and labor involved. Ford was genuinely trying to save me a little cash here, though I wanted all six coils replaced.
Comes April of 2010, I'm cruising along again, the lamps I mentioned above pop on again accompanied by really severe hesitation/misfiring. I limp over to a local Ford, his diagnostics show #4 cylinder misfiring. Ford guy changes coil--'cause I just had new 100K plugs installed--and all is wonderful.
Then comes December 2010, the check engine lamp has been staying on again--no hesitation at all. I bring it in to Ford, they find that a "flex connector" at one end of a long section of elaborately shaped pipe that connects both to the manifold and the catalytic converter--oh oh!--needs replacing. Only thing is, Ford, so I was told, does not sell the flex piece alone, naturally. I must purchase the entire pipe--comes to over $700 bills.
I test drive the vehicle after the repair, and it's very apparent I've lost about half the engine's power? Return to Ford, and here's the explanation: "The new pipe and flex pieces were now performing properly, i.e., holding in all of the engine's exhaust pressure. But now, because of what must surely be a "blockage" of some sort at most likely the entrance to the CAT, but possibly also in one of two other places along the entire exhaust system, the exhaust has to be taken apart and looked at if I'm to regain the engine's full power...jeesh! So, Ford does this stuff, tells me the CAT has gotten all messed up and another $700 dollars later all is ... well? Yeah, the Escape ran like new.
So that's my saga, with one additional thing or so that I want to mention, because I'm thinking of calling the telephone number of that association a poster somewhere along this thread shared with us, just so I can get on the list for a possible recall of at least the 2005s. Here's why: There just might be a tie to either an electrical or computer problem that could be causing all of these issues. Some source of the problem versus the after effects such as mine. Which, I wouldn't be caring about were it not for the constant comments that I remember issued by all of the technicians I've spoken with over the years of fixing and replacing stuff of my Escape. These comments, too many times, related to some type of electrical issue(s). Hmmm...? This and the fact that--as it was explained to me by the Manager of the last Ford place I've visited and had the CAT replaced at--one smaller problem, if not corrected properly, will cause things like the misfiring, "gumming up of cylinders," destruction of additional components and pieces along the line in a seemingly endless mushroom effect. And finally, this is all I have to report! :confuse:
I took this vehicle to two Ford dealerships and a trusted auto repair shop. No one could seem to determine the true cause of the problems. I had the grounds cleaned, spark plugs replaced, spark plug wires replaced, and alternator replaced.
At the urging of a friend, I finally brought my Escape to Midas. They correctly diagnosed and corrected the problem. Apparently, the person owning the Escape before me installed an after-warranty alarm system. The brand was Code Alarm. The alarm system was not compatible with my Escape's computer and was causing severe malfunctions. The alarm has since been removed and my car has not had problems since.
My son's Escape has the same battery drain issues that many of you are describing. It could sit for a week and start, or sit over night and not start. I don't want to just throw expensive parts and labor at this vehicle. I've done all the tests and everything points to fuse/circuit #27. I've spent 3 hrs a day for the last week on line looking for some definitive cause for a problem that probably exists on thousands of these vehicles. I've been told by three trusted mechanics in the last three days to get rid of it. 'Not an option at this time. PLEASE, someone help with some real answers/ free advice other than what I've already been told. Thanx
I hope someone out there will find THE solution!
My battery light came on a couple years ago. It randomly turns on and off. Only recently did I see something strange happening with the gauges. As of now I've been through at least one alternator and two batteries. It turns on an off while driving, while stopped, while devices are on (under load), and while devices are off.
Took it in, they said it was a bad alternator. Had that replaced, went on my way, and less than a day later, the light was back on. Took it in again, this time, they blamed the battery. Had that replaced. Belts and connections look good according to the mechanic. They hooked up to the device that reads error codes...nothing showing. Alternator is new factory (not reman) and is now 16 months old. Battery is now two days old, but the light still turns on and odd. Solid - not a dim glow or anything like that.
I sometimes convince myself I can affect whether the light is on or off by turning the Max AC on or off. I've often noticed that just tapping the brakes will often shut the light off...like it somehow changes the voltage or current and resets the sensor or something like that.
Dealership had to drive the car 20 miles today just to see the light turn on and off and experience what I've been trying to tell them for 2 years. Usually they've just driven it around the lot and saw no problems (duh). Hopefully they find something this time around.
I've been chasing this ghost for two years and haven't had any luck. It's been four trips to the dealer, and countless checks and double checks at stores that do the free testing of alternators and batteries for you.
I feel like at some point we'll hit dumb luck and finally see that a fuse or something isn't seated correctly and is triggering the light. (I wish!!)
I like my Escape...but it's going to cost me what's left of my hair and, if I keep buying new batteries and alternators, all of my savings!!!!!!
I have been reading up a lot on this and it seems the most common things people have done are: replace battery, alternator, plugs & wires, coils, PCM. I just now read some stuff in the transmission category- I hadn't thought about that yet.
Also the cruise control doesn't work. The buttons are fine and the green indicator light comes on on the instrument panel, but it does not actually stay at the speed when you set it.
Just a few weeks ago I was driving it and the gas cap light and a few others came on then dimmed out, but the fuel cap light stayed on for a few minutes and went out; the dome lights came on and off once when the other lights flickered on. I don't know if it is all related to the stalling, but I hope and think so. My brother said one of the guys he works with had an escape that did a lot of the same stuff as mine and he changed the ignition switch and it fixed it.
Is there anybody else that has had all or most of these same problems? Please Please Please let me know so I don't go through the long and expensive list of the possibilities. All information will be greatly appreciated. Besides everything I have said above, the car always starts fine from a cold crank no matter how long it sits. But one time I was using the CD player in the car for about 30 min without the engine and killed the battery! I thought that was odd. Last but not least, the car has stalled out with the AC on as well as Off. Somebody please help me pinpoint this issue!
Part# 98AZ-11572-A
MSRP $70.53
Also, one other thing I wonder if we have in common - the dealer installed a remote starter for us when we bought the car (new).
I hope that this will help others that have been having similar issues.
Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me. - John 14:6
Trust in The Lord
Tips: If you have a flashing engine light that means a mis fire.
The light can sometimes come on and off. If you have an engine code and are un sure of it, let me know and I can tell you what exactly it is. Having being a Master ASE Certified Mechanic I will help you. Just email me at
www.DementedMotorsports@msn.com
It started with the Rear Parking indicator turning off when I shifted into reverse last year. Then the ABS light would flash and stay on for days at a time. (It's since stopped) Then the brake warning light came on, and still does randomly. (It's a solid light, doesn't change when I put the EB on.) Recently it has failed to keep a charge. (I was told it was a bad cell) I replaced the battery with one from my boyfriends Ford Mustang that was working perfectly. It worked for a day in my Escape, then the battery light came on. I had AutoZone run a test - they said it was stuck in "Open Phase." (I assumed alternator) I didn't want to drive it, so we moved the battery BACK into the Mustang At startup, the check engine light came on in his vehicle, and it stalled randomly. We had to buy a new battery for that. I fear purchasing a brand new battery if the escape is just going to make it useless. I've also read several forums with people having similar issues and replaced their alternators to no avail.
There are all kinds of crazy small things have been happening since my battery problems started - all intermittent. Rough idles, dead battery, sputtering, cd player died, uneven shifting between gears. Other times it drives like a new car. It is driving me CRAZY.