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Acura RL

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Comments

  • satiresatire Member Posts: 71
    Here is the entire review from Motor Trend on the 2003 RL:

    "Benefiting from a host of upgrades for '02, Acura's senior sedan gains only new wheels, taillights, and minor trim changes to set off its comprehensively appointed '03 package. The RL's mechanical features include a 3.5L/225-HP SOHC VTEC V-6, electronically controlled four speed automatic transmission, double wishbone suspension, four-wheel dics with ABS, stability control, and front/front-side airbags. On the luxury front are leather upholstery, wood accents, a full complement of power assists, climate-control A/C, Bose audio, and OnStar. A DVD nav system and cargo net are the sole options."

    And yes, Motor Trend lists the price as $28,980-$33,480. Be sure to take this magazine with you when you visit the dealer. Everyone will have a nice laugh over that pricing.

    And I believe this is the first VTEC engine in the RL. Acura.com doesn't mention the 2002 having a VTEC. Perhaps the RL is sharing the TL's engine? It should have the Type S engine (IMHO).

    Relentlessly,
    L
  • satiresatire Member Posts: 71
    One thing I keep forgetting to ask, does anyone know what platform the RL is build on? As best as I can find out, it isn't shared with anything else Honda sells in this country. Is it used for anything in Japan? Would love to know if anyone has the 411.

    Thanks.

    Relentlessly,
    L
  • diploiddiploid Member Posts: 2,286
    I've always found it odd that the flagship sedan doesn't incorporate the parent company's ubitiquious VTEC system.
  • rmnixonrmnixon Member Posts: 21
    Most everyone seems to be talking about new cars, but I figured I would post this as an FYI. I bought a 1997 RL in April with 96K on it for 13K. I just spent $2700.00 on it yesterday. The water pump and timing belt were due to be changed, plus the accessory belts and I had to replace the right front strut (as it was sagging) so I did the left one to. Also, my mechanic found that the crank shaft position sensor was about to fail, so another 200 for that. I really like the car, but parts are expensive. I have 103K on it now and I would like to get to 150K with another major outlay (plugs and trans/diff were serviced two months ago). The car is wonderful, but watch out for the maint.
  • mike734mike734 Member Posts: 128
    It is amazing how expensive the parts are for this RL. My insurance is much more than for my 2000 Odyssey because the parts are so much more. It irks me because they are sometimes identical to Honda parts but with a different part number. A flasher/turn relay is $75, The horns are about $50 each. BTW watch out if your differential pinion seal is leaking ($660). Fix it now or pay much more later if it blows and you need a new tranny.
  • goralgoral Member Posts: 145
    You paid $2700 for timing belt/water pump + 2 struts??? Ouch!!!! I just had the timing belt/water pump/belts replaced by my mechanic. Charged me $250 for labor and I bought all OEM parts online for just over $300.
  • lowscolalowscola Member Posts: 8
    I own a 1998 Camry, it's been good to me since I purchased it used a little over a year ago, but I don't really like it. I purchased it to have some trouble free transportation while I was in a transition of having a kid, getting a degree, and got a job.

    To make a long story short, I'm thinking of getting a White 1998 RL with 48K miles for 22k. Does this sound like a good deal? I want a car that makes my 1.5 hour a day (65 mi ) commute easier.

    Any input will be greatly appreciated...
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    The MDX has been upgraded to 260hp using the same 3.5L engine.

    The 3.5L engine in the RL is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from the 3.5L engine present in the MDX/Odyssey. The 3.5L of the MDX/Odyssey is of the J-series of SOHC engines from Honda, which also includes the 3.0L engine of the Accord and the 3.2L engines of the TL/TL-s.

    The J-series engines (3.5L of the MDX etc) are Transversely mountable engines with a 60 degree "V" angle. The 3.5L in the RL is a Longitudinally mountable engine with a 90 degree "V" angle. The 90 degree "V" angle is ideal in a V8 engine, while the 60 degree "V" angle is ideal in a V6. The 90 degree V6 needs bandaids like balancing shafts to quell vibrations.

    Normally Automakers go for a 90 degree V6, ONLY when they need to make a V6 on the same production line as their V8 engines. For example, the Oldsmobile 3.5L DOHC engines have a 90 degree "V" angle, since they are built on the same production line as the Northstar 90 degree V8 engines of Cadillac. Putting balancers to quell vibrations is cheaper than building an entirely new production line. I wonder why Acura put a sub-optimal 90 degree V6 in the RL ? And not even providing it with Variable Valve Timing technology that Honda already employs in almost all other cars of theirs, leaving the RL engine, just a notch above such old school engines as the General Motors Pushrod engines ?? Strange, very strange...

    Later...AH
  • jjpcatjjpcat Member Posts: 124
    I was also puzzled by Honda's decision to use its lowest-tech engine in its more expensive autos except NSX. Same applies to the auto transmission. But I guess Honda believes no matter what kind of engine and transmission they put into RL, the most they can sell is 40k-50k each year and not making a whole lot of profit. The solution? Don't bother with its improvement. This generation of RL came out in 1996 and there won't be a new generation till 2004 at the earliest.

    Trying to keep its environment friendly image, Honda may not want to develop any V8 engines. And without V8 engines, I guess Honda would be extremely lucky if they can sell 40k/year in $40k+ range. I think Honda knows this and thus it isn't too eager to make improvements to RL.
  • vinceburlappvinceburlapp Member Posts: 64
    I think. It will go on sale in a little over a year.

    2 pictures at:

    http://www.thehollywoodextra.com
  • l943973l943973 Member Posts: 197
    I have a 99 RL and all cell phone adaptors are too big to use in that outlet preventing the armrest from closing. 00 RLs and up fixed this problem by having the outlet point horizontally instead of vertically for bulky adaptors.

    For those with RLs that have an outlet pointing upward in their armrest, Belkin has created a cell phone adaptor with a pivot arm. I bought one at Staples and it works great. It bends so the armrest can close. I no longer have to charge up my phone with the dash outlet.
  • krisdkrisd Member Posts: 1
    Beware if you decide to upgrade your tires and wheels to 17".

    I just upgraded to 17" wheels and tires on my 2000 RL. Although most charts at tire dealers list 17" compatible wheels and tires for this car, they generally will not fit without slight modifications. (I was told the standard RL Acura wheels have an uncommon offset that is not standard for most aftermarket wheel manufactures.) I went to a 17" chrome wheel with a 225/50-17 tire. The front fit fine, but the rear wheels rubbed on the fender wells going over bumps. I was able to bend over the inside lip on the wheel wells and slightly trim a piece of plastic from where the rear bottom panel connects to the wheel well. This allowed enough clearance to fix the rubbing problem. Most people may not be willing to make any modifications, so be sure to have the tire shop test fit BOTH the front and rear wheels prior to finalizing your purchase. (The tire shop I went to, America's Tire Company, only tested the front. They were however, very accomodating to help fix the problem and let me try several different tires without additional charge.) I would not recommend purchasing these items online, as most online vendors assured me the wheels would fit and your only recourse may be to send them back.

    I was amazed at how much better this new tire and wheel combo handles compared to the stock setup. And it also looks great. It was well worth the slight modifications for the end result.
  • l943973l943973 Member Posts: 197
    Here is the scoop from Honda corporate:
    (http://www.hondanews.com)

    "For 2003, Acura's flagship sedan receives subtle refinements that enhance its already distinctive styling. A new interior color, Slate Gray, is available as are three new wood trims: Auburn Camphor, Golden Camphor and Black Camphor. The 3.5 RL also receives three new exterior colors: Carbon Gray Pearl, Polar Blue Metallic and Champagne Mist Pearl. In the rear, a new taillight lens design features a clear turn signal portion. The alloy wheels also receive a new design. The 2003 RL is equipped with the Lower Anchor and Tethers for Children (LATCH) child seat restraint system."

    There is also mention of dual 8-way power front seats. I think the current is 8-way driver, 4-way passenger.
  • l943973l943973 Member Posts: 197
    There is mention of dual 8-way power seats, but the technical specs still say its a 4-way power passenger seat. I'm likely to believe the latter.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    Plus 1 wheels, extra tires, clear taillight lenses, "Golden Camphor"..... I'll just take mine with fuzzy dice, please.

    Go Bluejays.
    Joe W.
  • daveingvadaveingva Member Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    First time poster, but a grateful reader of recent months.

    I live in Switzerland and am about to buy my first Legend...or RL. I've got two cars under consideration, one a 1995, the other 1996. I'd be grateful for some advice or comments from this group about my best purchase. Here's the details....sorry to say I can't give a trim designation for either vehicle at the moment because they are both sight unseen and known here as Honda, as opposed to Acura Legends:

    1995 (Sept) Honda Legend 3.2i
    54,000 miles
    5 speed
    No CD, original timing belt and water pump
    $9,000

    1996 (Aug) Honda Legend 3.5i
    71,000 miles
    Automatic
    CD, new timing belt and water pump
    $10,700

    Both cars are the sedan models (wife and 2 kids, you know), and according to the sellers are in mint shape with no electronic problems etc.

    Obviously the key choice is between what in the States is called the RL and the last year of the Legend. From what I can make out the '96 has more torque, particularly at lower revs, and benefitted from a number of noise reduction measures. I know detractors argue against the RL series by virtue of it being less sporty than the Legend line, but to be honest I am not as much interested in hard cornering and flat out speed as I am in comfortable cruising on vacations and all round mechanical reliablility.

    A major question for me is whether the '96 RL models had teething problems and whether is it a year to be avoided.

    Basically I'd be very grateful if some of you hear could comment on which of these two cars you would opt for and why?

    Thanks for any help I can get on this,

    Dave Meddings
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I can't really speak to your question, but you didn't mention being aware that you'll probably want to upgrade to a CD? And in another few miles you'll need to do the maintenance, the belt especially & maybe the water pump. All told, you could have nearly another $1000 tied up in the '95. I dont' see the mileage in either one as a big issue unless the cars aren't as "mint" as the sellers proclaim.

    Good luck.
    Joe W.
  • goralgoral Member Posts: 145
    We used to have a '91 Legend (first generation of the newer body style) and the car was fantastic. With the exception of couple minor problems, the car ran great. I sold it a year ago (to my cousin) with 125K miles and the car still drives almost like new. The '96 RL my wife currently drives is definitely more luxurious, but both cars are great cruisers. The Legend did have an edge in terms of reliability - the RL has had few more problems. As far as the timing belt/water pump go - should be replaced on both cars at 90K.
    Oh yeah, almost forgot - I will always take a "manual" transmission over "auto", so in this case my vote goes to the Legend.
  • kps0311kps0311 Member Posts: 6
    I have been looking at both new and used '02 RLs at both Acura and other dealerships. With the current factory-to-dealer cash back incentive of $4000, the new RLs (w/o Navi) are selling for about $35K. I have looked at a couple of used '02s for which the dealers are asking more than a new car costs. When you explain the reality of the end-of-the-year incentives, like, why should I pay $38K for your used Acura when I can buy a new one for $35K, they look at you like you're from another planet. (The Acura dlrs. know the situation, but they play dumb, too.) How do you deal with these guys? Surely, the pricing of the used cars must "float" along with the prices of the new ones. Or am I missing something here?

    Another pet peeve of mine is the "now you see it, now you don't" lease deals. One week, the lease pmt. is $427/mo. Wait a week and "the plan has changed." Now the monthly pmt. is $503! What's up with that?! It's like shooting at a moving target, and performing due diligence and making an informed decision cannot be prolonged much. Just venting my frustration, and don't expect much help here.

    Also, can anyone confirm that the '03 RLs will have a VTEC engine? Other changes supposedly are minor.
  • goldkeygoldkey Member Posts: 36
    kps0311, I share the same amazement at how dealers treat public like idiots. Few days ago I walked in. I only asked them when '03 are coming. And one dealer told me that although '02 price is $43K, he can give me one for $38K. Then we hurried to other clients, while another approached me asked for my phone, and told me that as soon as the announcment about '03 will come from Acura, we can give me a special deal on 02 "left over inventory" as he put it. I asked, hasn't 02 were on "left over" status for few months already? he said, no, it can not be considered left-over even single day before official announcement about '03 comes from the company. So, he promised that sometimes in November he would give me a call about '02. While, I know they have one or two left in stock as we speak.
    Maybe this is just their way fo getting back at public for becoming too informed and smart-assey. Actually, I don't know how to behave when I walk-in into dealership, whether let them know right away, that I know what's the deal, or play dumb and see how they'd treat you. But they invariably treat people like dummies.
    Few weeks ago, I CarsDirect found RL for me for $34,800. I passed only because it was not my color choice, and I wanted to bide my time for '03. But when time comes, I'll go thru CarsDirect, no way I can bring myself to deal wtih dealers directly.
    You either have to let them fool you, or you have to be clear that they lie to you, and you know it. I am not comfortable with either proposition.
    By the way, does anyone know when is the earliest incentives might kick in for '03? Do they have them in Feb/March season?
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I really wouldn't try to negotiate. Occasionally, and very rarely, you'll find a salesman who not only knows what his product is about but treats you like a person. They will be self-evident if you meet one. Most of them aren't worth the conversation and definitely aren't worth the frustration. I agree with goldkey that a lot of the newer games are played because most new buyers enter the store with a lot of information.

    Try this: Do your homework on current rates, rebates, etc., and enter the dealership with a price in mind: your offer (low), your target (mid), and your max. When they give you a ridiculous song and dance, say "I'm ready to buy today -- here is my card (scribble the offer price on the back). It looks like you need to think about whether you want to sell this car or not. Get back to me if you decide you can sell for my price, unless I buy before I hear from you." And then, walk out.

    Most of the time you won't make it out the driveway without the sales manager coming out. If you've done your homework, don't budge. The worst they can say is 'no.' and then you can always come back and meet their lowest price.

    No need for hassle. They're sellling. Let them use your offer, not MSRP. The price is never marked down -- it's marked up from their true invoice.

    Hope it works out. Good luck.
    Joe W.
  • kennyg5kennyg5 Member Posts: 360
    I have similar experiences two weeks ago. The dealer had the audacity of asking $43,000 for an RL with nav. and said it was a good price since it was $2,500 off MSRP. When I told him that the internet was selling the car at $37,000 because Acura was giving the incentive, he told me that the internet price was not real and the best he could do was $38,000 ($5k less than his first quote). Clearly, the dealer was not dealing in good faith and was trying to fool uninformed customers. If not for the internet, many customers might be taken for a horrendous ride by unscrupulous dealers.

    Another dealer told me that if he had to trade his stock RL with another dealer (since he did not have my color), he would have to mark up the price by $800. I think this is gouging because my understanding is that dealers typically trade their cars with each other and do not pass the cost to customers. Come on, be fair.

    Overall, my shopping experience with the Acura dealers around me has not been great, which hurts Acura's image of being customer friendly.
  • satiresatire Member Posts: 71
    I'm on my third Acura now. Two different dealers, three different salesmen. You must do your homework (gotta love edmunds.com). But one thing you have to do is be prepared to say "no" at least five times. It's worked for me. My second Acura took five "no's" and my walking out of the dealership. Two days later they called and were saying "yes" to what I wanted.

    So to get a great deal, "Just say no". At least until you get what you want. Just my $.02.

    Relentlessly,
    L
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    To get the best deal you need to be willing to do some searching on websites. Most dealers post their new inventory. Dealers with 2 or 3 cars are going to hold on to them for a while to wait for daddy warbucks who has money to burn to pay sticker.

    You need to find a dealer with 10-20 RL's on the lot. They will be willing to move them. Also you can use them to jockey with a local if they have something you want. I am in KS and the area dealer wouldn't give me the time of day. Bought from a dealer in KC, 200 miles and got a great deal. I did the whole deal by e-mail. I was looking in KS, and adjoining states.

    Finally, don't deal with the guy that picks you up at the lot. Use the internet sales person. In general, they are trained to cut through the crap. When I got mine it was the GM. I ended up with one of the usual joes for the delivery which was no big deal.
  • viper0074viper0074 Member Posts: 56
    Hello. Does anyone have a full-size spare for their 3.5RL? I know that the space used by the temporary spare is not big enough for a full size tire. A service guy at the dealer said that there would be a bump in the trunk floor if I put a full size down there. I'm just wondering how much of a bump it would be. Thanks.
  • kidbebopkidbebop Member Posts: 10
    I got my dream car today. A 1996 RL Premium
    with 65,000 miles. I bought it from a dealer in the Los Angeles area after having a bad experience with another dealer in buying a 1998 TL.

    This car is in excellent condition and looks beautiful. Got the car for $15,993 including new floor mats and detail of car inside and out. Also got a full tank of gas.

    I plan to drive the car for ten years. I had an '87 Accord Lxi that I had since new that I just sold with 194,000 miles. It still ran great. I am bored with current Honda styling and wanted Honda reliabilty with more luxury. Hence, the RL.

    Would it be wrong to sleep in it tonight?

    Cheers
    mrjazz
  • kidbebopkidbebop Member Posts: 10
    What year RL came with the beautiful fan type wheels. Can you plese give me info on model number and availabilty?

    Cheers
    kidbebop
  • prophet2prophet2 Member Posts: 372
    .... on your purchase. I bought my '96 RL two years ago with 36,800 miles for $19,995 + TTL. No problems beyond normal maintenance other than replacing an oxygen sensor under an extended warranty purchased by the previous owner.

    I had considered a 2000 Accord EX V-6 sedan from the same dealership, but got the RL. Saved $3.5K and got a better vehicle with a longer remaining warranty (balance of the 7 yr/100K EW).

    Just had the car detailed last week. It doesn't look like a six-year old vehicle with 70K miles.
  • kidbebopkidbebop Member Posts: 10
    My previous post about the fan type wheels on an RL has lead me to the fact that they are the ones from a 1998 RL. They are described as having "13 slanted directional spokes". I really like the look of those wheels.

    Where would be a good source for these OEM wheels from a 1998 RL?

    Cheers
    kidbebop
  • l943973l943973 Member Posts: 197
    Based on today's autoweek article, we should be seeing a new Acura badged gas-electric hybrid performance car soon. Honda execs say it will be in the next 12 to 18 months. (Based off the Acura DNX).

    Since the DNX is a 4-door performance sedan, this could be the next generation RL.
  • mike734mike734 Member Posts: 128
    I just bought a 98 RL Navi and wonder what the latest database and software versions are. I have a Database Ver.: ADB0372
    Software Ver.: 3.42

    Does anyone know if they will publish an update later this year?
  • sburke7sburke7 Member Posts: 37
    is here,,,some refinements?,,,is listed on acura web-site,,,

    SBurke
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    I believe yours is a CD/Hard-disk based Nav system. Each one of those CDs cover only certain portions of the US.

    The NAVs after that, are DVD based, with one DVD convering the entire continental US.

    Later...AH
  • mike734mike734 Member Posts: 128
    Yeah, tha'ts right. I want to know, what is the latest update? BTW I have been told the updates are free and I have been told they cost about $100. I know the DVD updates cost money but I understand the "regional" hard disk based systems are updated for free.
  • rdharamsrdharams Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2000 RL and some scratches are showing up. Last weekend during routine oil change, the dealer applied a special paste and polished the surface, and to my amazement, the scratches were gone! There are a few more I would like to polish off. Does anyone know of a reliable polish I can buy locally? ( I asked the dealer, but he said it was a commercial Honda product and not available in retail)

    Also, sometime back I had read on the list of a product called 'Zano' for surface protection. Has anyone on the board used it? If so, is it worth buying?
  • sranger941sranger941 Member Posts: 21
    The product that you heard of is "Zaino" and can be found at www.zainobros.com

    I also have a 2000RL and have used Zaino since the car was new and it is a great product.
    I have also used it on a 1988 Mercedes (paint was in great shape to begin with) and the finish is fantastic.

    For more discussion on Zaino, search Town Hall using "Zaino" and you will find many discussions.
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    I am not aware of the updation policy of the pre-2000 Nav systems. Your best bet would be to contact the local dealer and ask for their opinion.

    Later...AH
  • baseballmom94baseballmom94 Member Posts: 92
    My husband and I are looking at '99 RLs at a local dealer. They had about 5 on the lot. The salesman said we could get one for about $24,000 (sticker $26,900) with 34,000 miles on it. How much lower can we get this car for? I think that $22-$23,000 is possible....what do you all think?

    Also, we are wondering if we should wait until some 2000 models come off lease?

    Also, why is this an unpopular car? I guess that is good for those of us who want to buy a preowned one, but I'm just curious.

    And, lastly, what does everyone on the board think about this car as a reliable used car? My husband doesn't care at all about status names (even though he's a doc and has been told he should be driving a Mercedes ;-) ) and he would be totally happy with a new Camry or Maxima but we are hoping to get a lot of years out of the Acura. I know I've asked a lot of questions, but I would appreciate any feedback. Thanks!
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
  • bdlfebdlfe Member Posts: 21
    $22-$23 is good, considering brand new 2002 are going for I think $35 (w/o navi) according to Edmunds and right now some areas are having great finance deals (2.9%??)

    The RL is unpopular because it's is dated, looks like the old Legend and has about the same power for a car that's almost 10 years old. The new Accord has way more. And I believe the MSRP has been about the same ever since it came out in 96. Most people that get luxury level end up with a other brands and gladly pay the extra $5-$10K over.

    I was considering this last year but it was slightly out of my range even with the great deals they had/have on it, They quote me a price of $39 with the navi for a 2002 at the end of last year, I think it's cheaper now. It was slightly underpowered but it felt really luxurious over a TL/Type S, which had way more power but the TL was smaller inside and some parts looked like a slightly bigger Accord.

    I'm sure it is very reliable (it is made in Japan, unlike most other Acura's that now have the extended warranty for the faulty transmission.) Why not get the 2002, I think it's a damn great deal, still thinking about it myself!! It's like middle ground between every other car out there.

    Good luck.
  • hunter001hunter001 Member Posts: 851
    Coincidentally, the Acura cars with their "extended warrantied transmissions", had their 5-speed transmissions sourced exclusively from Japan. That is the only component that is reported to have failed among the hundreds of thousands of vehicles sold, the failure rate (1.6%) being more than Honda's traditional low failure limits (0.2% ??), even though well under the regular Auto Industry limits. No US built/installed component has ever failed in all these cars, primarily I suppose due to the high manufacturing standards in the non-union US Honda plants being a replica of those that are there in Japan. In fact, no Japanese Plant in the US (Nissan/Honda/Toyota) is unionized, which IMHO, is the real bane of manufacturing excellence, with a "wink and a nod" to shipping out shoddily assembled products (Luckily does not happen in the non-Unionized North American Japanese plants - yet).

    An engineering analysis of the cause of the failure of the transmissions was done, and the "faulty" component corrected sometime during last year and hence the latest cars arriving are free of this "problem".

    Later...AH
  • baseballmom94baseballmom94 Member Posts: 92
    Thanks, bdlfe, for the reply. Still interested in what others have to say about the value of an RL as a used vehicle.

    Concerning, the Certified Preowned Warranty coverage, the salesman said that for $700 we can get a "wraparound" bumper to bumper coverage to 100,000 miles or 6 years, I believe. Does this literally mean, any little thing that goes wrong will be covered? For instance, stereo, air conditioning, power windows, etc? Does anyone have experience with this additional wraparound coverage and the ease of getting things fixed when needed? With this coverage, can we literally count on not putting any money into this car other than regularly scheduled maintenance?? This is a very important aspect which will motivate us to either buy the preowned Acura or a brand new vehicle. Right now, our '94 Jeep GC (80,000 miles)is starting to have problems every few months.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    The Honda warranty is comprehensive so far as extended warranties go, but it's really a no-brainer for them since the cars have such a low failure rate. You can check with the service manager (at most dealerships these are pretty knowledgeable) and ask about specific items. What it does not include are wear items (brakes, mufflers, wipers, accident or abuse, etc.), but you won't get that in any warranty, new or used.

    For me, if the CarFax report came back clean and, especially, if the dealership was able to show me the service records (i.e., a trade-in) I don't think I'd even spring for the warranty. No need to worry about 100k in a "normal" Honda, in my mind. Now, if they offered it to 200k, that would be different story but no such luck.

    In any case, your ownership experience will be DRASTICALLY different from owning a Jeep unless you are one of the rare, unlucky ones.

    Good luck.
    Joe W.
  • baseballmom94baseballmom94 Member Posts: 92
    Thanks, Joe, for the info. We're trying to negotiate the RL to $23,000 with the extended coverage. My husband likes to drive his cars for several years and will probably keep this for 5 or 6 years. Actually, we have one of the earlier model Jeep Grand Cherokees that hasn't given us as many problems as the recent model years. The main things that have gone are the air conditioning and water pump. We're just afraid of what will occur now after the 80,000 mile mark. We've been loyal Toyota owners in the past but have no experience with a Honda product. Hoping for a good experience.
  • nicke1nicke1 Member Posts: 9
    I bought a 96 RL with 35,000 miles on it 4 years ago. The dealer also tried to talk me out of the extended warranty which then cost me about $1,000. I am glad I bought it. No major problems, but it does not take long to get to $1000 in repairs even for a car as well built at the RL. I even had my brakes replaced because a covered item caused them to wear. If a warranty item fails and causes other damage or impact that is covered also. If you can get a warranty for $700 my recommendation,(imho), is buy it.
  • mike734mike734 Member Posts: 128
    This is weird. My (new to me) 98 RL just over heated this morning. I happened to notice the temp gauge and saw it approaching "H" within two miles of home. Lucky for me, I pass my garage on my way to town so I pulled in and had them check it out.

    There was no water in the overflow tank and no hot air would come out of the AC vents (I had turned on the heat for the last mile in an attempt to cool the engine). There was no water in my driveway and the car had a new water pump/timing belt 18 months and 25,000 miles ago.

    They filled the radiator and have run it for an hour at 2000 rpm without a leak. What's up with that?
  • baseballmom94baseballmom94 Member Posts: 92
    Thanks to those who gave me advice here. My husband and I just made a deal on a '99 RL with 33,000 miles on it and in almost perfect condition. The retail price on it was $27,000 and we were able to negotiate the price to $23,300 including new mud guards, minor paint touch-ups and professional leather repair for a scratch in the back seat leather. We also got the extended certified wrap-around bumper to bumper coverage which will cover us for almost 4 more years. The dealership definitely wanted to move the RL's. All in all, it was a very pleasant experience.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    Just make sure your baseball players don't slide into base then expect a ride 'home'!

    Sorry, I guess I should have resisted more.

    Take care.
    Joe W.
  • mrrogersmrrogers Member Posts: 391
    If there is no water leaking outside the engine, you may have an internal leak. It could be a head gasket, a cracked head, or a cracked block. Check the oil for signs of antifreeze/water. If there is none, than the water may be going into the combustion chamber, and out the exhaust. White smoke at startup may be a tipoff. Find a mechanic who can pressure test your cooling system. Good luck!
  • poonsspoonss Member Posts: 7
    You might have a malfunctioning - "stuck closed" thermostat but it has unstucked itself. The coolant will only circulate inside the engine if it is stuck closed and it will cause the engine to overheat. First drain the cooling system including the engine block and remove the thermostat and test it.
    YMMV
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