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I watch my brother in law put his Acura TL in the shop...alot...for recurring transmission problems. As in 3 times in 80k miles and the trans was replaced two of those times, I think it's the same trans that's in the Odyssey. Since I've owned the Silo the only unscheduled repairs were a broken weather seal an NF power window switch both under warranty, the rear hatch pull and the trans was shifting hard, ($350 now it shifts perfect). 1999 silo premier 48,000 miles. I knew I could end up paying $800 for an intake manifold gasket when I purchased the van. I paid $18,250 for this van 2 1/2 years ago with about 22,000 miles. When I'm done with the Silo it will have well over 100k miles on it and will be worth little or nothing as will an Odyssey with well over 100k miles on it. We paid a great deal less for the Silo than an Ody with like options and I don't have to deal with the recurring transmission issues and that Honda transmission is very, very expensive when the warranty expires.
(85,000 miles with nearly no problems at all....)
It will get better for a while then come back.
I have tried the "quiet valve" additives.
Seemed to work for awhile.
Sometimes reving engine up to 3000 rpm then backing off suddenly works.
Again only for a while.
Woould an "engine flush" bought at Advance Auto help any? Followed by an oil change of course.
By the way...
Would a heavier weight (10-30,10-40,20-50) oil make the noise quieter or louder???
Is this something that needs repair? Price?
Thanks,
This extra time might help the lifters to dissolve more of the deposits causing it to make noise.
As a follow-up to a previous post, we had our 2001 Silo GL (32K miles) looked at by the local dealer (still under warranty) for the 35-45 mph road noise we are experiencing. They test drove it and agreed it was noisey. They checked the wheel bearings and found them to be ok. Their final verdict was that the tires are cupped and this is causing the noise. He told me the tires need to be rotated properly to avoid cupping. I countered that the tires had been rotated every 7,500 miles according to specs. He came back with "when a vehicle is out of alignment a cup can be set in the tires." I said that it does not pull to either side when driving so I assume the alignment is ok. To which he said "if the rear end is out of alignment then you will not necessarily notice it when driving." Of course the dealer did not actually check the alignment. In the end, I left being a dissatisfied customer with the dealer only wanting to sell me new tires and an alignment.
So a few questions. Is it commom for larger vehicles like vans to go out of alignment more easily than smaller cars? I have owned several new cars for many miles (my '95 Mazda Protege has 171K) and have never had this situation arise before where the tires look fine and the vehicle tracks straight but the alignment is out and it screws up the tires. Second, can a tire shop that rotates tires tell if this is happening early on and possibly prevent it?
Thanks in advance.
I put in Mobile one, much less valve noise but the noise becomes louder as the car gets closer to oil change time.
The only tires I like less than Generals are Firestones. I bet your Firestones are cupped because they're Firestones. I don't understand why GM has been putting such poor quality tires on these Vans. The Goodyears changed our van completely, I tossed the Generals while they still had life left because they were junk! (and my wife hit a curb and popped one so I had an excuse)
3 months ago had the intake manifold replaced. GM paid for half since it just came out of warranty. Now just got a call that the air conditioner condensor is leaking and needs to be replaced at a cost of $750.
What will be next....I could kick myself for not getting the extended warranty but all the past GM cars I have I had never had to use it. So I thought I was saving some money since I dished out good money for this make and model.
Do any of you think that the AC condensor going out on a 3 year old car with 40,000 miles is normal?
Thanks,
Tim24
The dealer took 10% off so I only had to pay 700 for the repair.
On a similar note, I once cleaned the bugs out of the condenser with water when washing our van. The van then sat overnight and was driven the next day. The result, a noticable mold smell when driving with the a/c on for the next few days. So now I only clean the a/c condenser with a soft bristle brush and no more smell problem.
I feel a little better that we are not the only ones experiencing the cheap General/Firestone tire syndrome with these vans. And I am also glad it is not a safety issue. When we receive the survey for the last dealer visit, I will definitely let GM and the dealer know how I feel on this issue. Sorry GM, no "completely satisified" mark from this Silo owner. I mean, you pay $25K for a vehicle and the tires only perform normal for the first 22K miles, at which point, the dealer blames you and then tries to sell you an alignment and new tires?
Apparently all 2000/2001 trio are failing. They're four brackets one in each corner of the condenser which is welded to the condenser and the bolted to the vehicle. The passenger bottom bracket are apparently welded on a slight angle. So when driving the wind force is putting pressure on all four brackets. But because the passenger is at an angle it's breaking the weld a hairline crack which loses the freon. He says it's epidemic, they can not keep with up the repairs. The mileage is around 60,000 km (35,000 miles) and up. This is in Toronto, Canada. The dealers are charging 1000 cdn. GM is not helping.
The radiator shop is only charging $70 cdn to the dealers. He also told me that anyone with a 2000/2001 to prevent the problem which G.M. is also advising to the dealers is to remove the passenger bolt from the bracket of the condenser.
The radiator shop after repairing the crack are filling in the hole of the passenger bracket with a weld. Today my friend showed me how the fix the crack and the 500 more to do, with more coming in eveyday.
Noise is minimal and always has been...
Weird thing is I ran them under inflated when I first bought Van new. Worn the edges quickly. After inflating properly they have worn like iron. Sometimes I thing the aggressive side tread is what creates the noise and wear.
If you want noise you should here my Pontiac Vibe with Continental's and only 15,000 miles...
Badly cupped! Even after rotated and re-balanced twice by about 12,000 miles.
Now I'm looking for "quiet" spray to put in the wheel wells to help quiet the noise!
My theory is oem tires now suck....
Cars like Vibe and Contours are light so they do not track as well. Once a tire eater... always a tire eater. Pontiac just charged me around $130 for re balance and alignment... should have put the $$$ toward tires instead! Tons of tires being junked early! Ralph Nader???
It is at the point now I can not always re-create the noise on command for mechanic...
I am also still using hi-test gas incase part of noise is knock! $2.28 a gallon here.
2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette
The only cars with a standard 10/100 drivetrain warranty back then that I can think of were the VW and Kia.
Steve, Host
lots of delearships promote third party extended policies....
You might have heard 100k warranty but didn't buy????
Maybe you did buy and its in your paperwork somewhere?
Good luck.
I currently have Firestone Affinity LH30's size P215/70/15 on my Silo which I bought used and the odometer is registering about 2 miles more every 100 miles when comparing to the mileage markers on the interstate. The Firestones are almost new and I'm running them at 35psi, therefore I think that the original tires might have been slightly bigger causing the mileage discreptancy that's occuring now?
Thanks for your help......
Steve, Host
Thanks..... Paulie
For example:
jrdwyer Feb 16, 2004 12:48am
Steve, Host
The General XP2000 P215/70/15 specs are the same as my Firestone Affinity LH30 P215/70/15 specs. So I guess it's not the tires that are giving me the wrong odometer reading.
Steve, Host
Thanks.
Sometimes persistence pays off.
I was looking to upgrade my overhead console from the basic one, to the one with the trip computer and such.
Has anyone done this/know if it's possible?
I know a lot of times it's easier to manufacture vehicles with all the wiring/etc in the body so that many features can be added even at the dealer, without ripping out carpet/headliner's, etc.
I was wondering if anyone's checked this out, and seen if you can get the computer functional, and if the fit works well when you upgrade the console. I've seen several at junk yards and on ebay, and would like to give it a shot, but as the items would not be returnable, I have no way to check out the fit in my current van...though I guess I can at least check for wiring by taking off my current console.
I would imagine there is just a second wiring harness for the computer?
D
If you can't see any other visible leaks, check under the throttle body, that's a common place of leaking that is hard to find. It's on the driver's side, you'll need a flashlight to look for moisture underneath.
That's where mine was leaking (but it was leaking oil, not coolant) and 1 mechanic didn't spot the leak, but 2 others did.
D
Several months ago, I purchased a 1996 Oldsmobile Silouette van. It's been well maintained, and until a couple of weeks ago, I've had no problems. Now, whenever I drive it, the motor makes a lunging/jerking movement, as though it is going to shut off - no sounds or funny smells. Doesn't matter whether the engine is warm or cold, or what speed I'm going. I've had the engine looked at and tested on a particular machine, and everything checks out ok and all fluids are ok. Any ideas on what the problem could be??? Thanks!