Brave: I will stand corrected on my 'anti-cai' comment I typed earlier. I must have misunderstood. Like you and I discussed earlier, I would have to agree that out of all the mods, the CAI seems to offer the most 'bang for the buck', and is a no-brainer to install (and uninstall)! On top of that, it is one of the few mods that I think I understand the mechanics of!
Thanks also for reminding me of the many benefits my V1 has over the competitors. I was mainly thinking about getting the 8500 b/c I have a 30% off coupon good on any item, and they sell escort products...
Ccotenj: Good idea about testing temp while running vs idle...not that sophisticated...yet!
Yes, the parable about the fox that couldn't reach the grapes (they were probably sour)...is alive and well in our house. Any mod over about $500 dollars falls into that category for me. I figure any mod over that should have been installed by BMW to begin with when I plunked down $30K plus!!! ; )
But I think I'd be so slippery I'd have to tie myself to my office chair so I won't be sliding underneath my desk all the time. that soap bar should keep me clean, though - should be a huge time-saver as I won't have to shower every day any more.
A truce it is. I let my fur get ruffled when discussions turn to AWD & RWD. It seems whenever I mention RWD to people, they seem to think I'll be in a ditch after the first snow fall.
It sounds like we're looking at the same basic car so we do agree with each other.
In the end, everyone needs to make the choice for themselves and at least these discussions give people differing points of view.
Regarding the SP, BMWUSA shows "Sport suspension calibration" as a package option for the 325i. Regarding tires, you can always put performance tires on your 16" x 7" rims, but a set of 17" x 8" rims will cost you most of the $1200 package cost.
Personally, I like the SP steering wheel and seats better than the standards so the SP suits me well. I just hope I don't get stuck at work in a sudden snowstorm without a chance to change tires :-)
That would be a lot of work I suspect...Wondering if I need to get blond highlights to go with my new Zaino look...some speedos (not to be confused with speeding) too maybe for better Cd. I hope they don't come up with a 21 years speedo limit )
Yeah. My friend inherited a 750il from his father, who himself was a very aggressive driver. My friend of course beat on the car, it being V12 and his first. His tires were literally racing slicks after a few months
It's a well-known fact that Craig Peterson is a V1 basher and has been discredited as an objective source of info. Article is very biased and misleading and I would not recommend it to anyone...Do as you like, it's your money and driving record but be advised that this particular article is useless.
I can not dispell what you say about the author but I also read a test of same detectors in Motortrend a couple of months back. Suffice to say the V1 was not the top pick for most of the same reasons as this test (flawed or not...). I'm neither a fan or detractor of the V1. My personal opinion is leaning towards the idea that perhaps the current V1 has lost its edge and is a costly alternative to newer detectors that are apparently offering better performance, more features, and more user friendly design at a better price. It is also known that the V1 is up for a redesign shortly. I throw these points into the ring for discussion not dismissal. As you say, it's my money and because of such I can't just call all other tests sources of half truths and lies, etc.
Mine are making a thump noise when changing the direction, and only bump-bumping while crossing the windshield (I guess when glass is too dry). I have Bosh inserts that I replaced from the original though, and I believe that these inserts do not make a perfect fit.
We have a lot of squeegee kids here in TO. A couple of weeks ago, I was waiting in the middle lane at a red light when I saw someone run up to my passenger door from behind. I usually try to wave them off if they offer to "clean" my glass.
But coming from behind, in the dark, this guy thunks his squeegee onto my glass. Using my speedy reflexes, I flicked on my wipers, which came on with a loud groan, whacking the squeegee out of the way and scaring the guy. I think he jumped about 3 feet and ran off.
So, Dave: My wiper motors make a loud sound as well. They are also very strong which will be handy come winter.
BTW: I installed winter wipers this weekend as I needed to replace mine anyway.
What I did was unworthy, but in my defense, it was dark (late at night and under the Gardiner) and I was alone. He came running up to my passenger door from behind and freaked me out.
They have a rubber/silica sleeve over the moving parts to prevent freezing. Worth a shot, didn't cost much more than regulars anyway.
I park outdoors at work, it rains a lot here and my commute is through a lot of construction. So I used my wipers a great deal this summer. I'll need them more in winter.
I know what you mean, you are just looking for a good discussion because you're still doing your research. If the Motortrend article is the one I'm thinking about (the BEL came out on top, right?), it was pretty objective. I think the BEL had better detection in hilly areas or sth like that...As I mentioned before, their forward detection capabilities are about the same but the V1 has the best rear detection.
"more features"? Not sure what that would entail. To me, the boogey counter and the directional arrows are more important than any other "user-friendly" features. Trust me, in the world, they make a huge difference.
The V1 unit is slightly larger than most other units but it is not something that bothers me. I mean, we're talking about a difference of 1/2" or so. Yep, I also heard they are coming up with a redesign within a few months but they also offer free upgrade path for 12 months (I think).
I forgot to mention to you that you can control the detection channels on the V1 to the degree that it eliminates 95+% of the false alarms. The microwave frequency can be shut off completely, so you won't ever get a false alarm due to a security system in a commercial area nearby. On a drive from Boston to Albany (170 miles), I'd probably get 2-3 false alarms each way, always in the same places.
It seems to me that you're looking for a reason why you should spend a couple of hundred dollars extra compared to other radar detectors. It's a valid concern and I hope that my post can help you make a better decision. I think the most expensive ticket I've had was about $340 - the V1 would have paid for itself right there.
thanks for the info. Had no idea such things even existed, but it makes sense. Nothing close to freezing here. Maybe light frost when it gets really cold.
If you guys are right about the suspension, then I'm bummed. I'm glad they fixed the steering though. I've heard that the SP is rather jarring on bad roads - and we have many of those in Pittsburgh, especially in the winter. I may be getting old, but some nights I just want to cruise home in my cool car, in relative confort and isolation. The next day, however, I may want to burn the twisties, though.
I guess I'll just have to test drive both suspension packages and decide if I want to spring for the SP and endure the ride. I can't afford a 330, so that is not an option. Is the handling of the non SP really THAT bad? I've heard it is still pretty awesome and sporting - and that the SP is downright racecar-like. I'll have to drive my brother's SP again (after he takes his snow tires off in the spring!!!).
I've been trying to figure out the correct pressure for my '01 330i with sp. It's a bit confusing checking out the makings on the side of the door and the manual. Can anyone clarify this for me?
With the engine and radio off, I just actuated my wipers and I can hear a fairly quiet wining noise typical of a wiper motor. The noise should be fairly unobtrusive, if not, it sounds like you need a new motor and/or gearbox (wiper gearbox that is).
As far as replacement intervals, wiper blades should be replaced at least once per year, regardless of how much they have been used. The sun takes its toll on the rubber and blades that have not been used frequently have a tendency to remain bent in their resting position. When that happens, you will get a nice smooth quiet wipe on the way down but a very noisy/bumpy wipe on the way up with a lot of water marks on the glass.
Skobola,
I bought my replacement blades from www.autozone.com. The actual blades are:
The stock suspension is still great. It may be a better option for you if you like to go riding instead of driving every once in a while, especially on bad roads. An added advantage is that this way you don't necessarily need to buy snows. I suspect that if you drive a 3-series with the SP, you'd be hooked, though ;o)
It's very easy to obtain to correct tire pressure - you have the recommended F/R setting with one passenger and then F/R with the car loaded to the max (5 passengers and luggage). I vaguely remember that the 330i was 33/38 minimum but I'd have to trust Dave on that.
Since brave1heart put so much faith in me, went back and double checked. For 2001 330i with SP (the 17" Z-rated performance tires), it should be 30/35, front/back, and 35/42 for fully loaded.
about V1: brave1heart, on the day i got busted, i was coming to the top of a hill w/a bunch of other cars around me when i got tagged by the laser. i definitely had the V1 mounted properly. in my case V1 just plain failed. since then, i returned the V1 and got the passport 8500. so far it seems to be working okay, but i'm still in the testing phase and haven't really put much trust in it. it seems that the thing doesn't give me a whole lot of advance warning before going off. typically the alarm sounds and within 5 to 10 seconds, sometimes even 2 seconds later the cop is right in front of me. the best thing, regardless of whether you have a detector or not, is to not speed excessively.
debate on awd vs. rwd: will everyone please wait until the country get some snow and then talk about which system is better. i myself have a 330 xi, and can't wait to test it on snow and slush. who knows, maybe it'll turn out to be the best thing since apple pie, and then again, it may have been a complete waste of money. until it snows, all the previous discussion on this board doesn't mount to diddly.
zaino vs. klasse: when i first bought my car, i bought all the zaino accessories including clay bar, z1, z2, z5, and z6 and followed step by step instructions on beautifying my car. it took me about 3 days worth of work over 2 weekends to make the car look nice, but the shine didn't last too long on my jet black beauty. the zaino didn't do too good a job keeping dust and water spots off the car, and unlike traditional carnauba wax, i didn't find the rain water rolling off the car. this past weekend i washed my car then used klasse all-in-one followed by the high gloss sealant. the application of the klasse was not that difficult, but it was a little harder to wipe off than zaino was. the big difference between zaino and klasse was the fact that i didn't wait for hours for the klasse to dry before wiping it off, which saves a huge amount of time. the end result was that the shine with klasse seemed just as good or maybe even a little better than zaino. it hasn't rained in ny since i washed the car, so i don't know how klasse will hold up to the rain and dirt.
3 series vs. 5 series: my friend just got his MY2002 530i w/prem/sp pkg. i was very impressed by how nice the interior of the 530i was compared w/my PP/SP 330xi MY2001. the on-board computer was much more fully functional and laid out better.
the most impressive difference was the sound of the premium stereo on the 5 c/w my 3. the 5 had a much richer sound quality w/digital signal processing, and it actually sounded fantastic. the hk system in my car is very dull sounding, and while i was okay w/it before, i am very disappointed by it now. it almost sounds like my hk system has only 4 speakers--i'm still looking for where the rest of the 8 speakers are. did they change the amps for the 2002 3 series?
one last thing is that the sport pkg (M) steering wheel on the 5 series is much thicker, meatier, and better looking than the 3 spoke sport pkg steering wheel on my 3. the steering wheel on my car is rather thin and cheap looking compared to the 5. even audi has a much more sporty steering wheel. maybe i will upgrade to an M steering wheel later.
When I first drove BMW 3 years ago, I fell in love. Finally, I'm ready to buy (a 325i). I've been following this list for months and have just a few simple questions:
1) I plan to change the oil every 5-7K mi. Why do I hear about exorbitant costs for this procedure?
2) Is anyone knowledgeable on the synthetic brand dealers use in the cars? I prefer Mobile 1 and wonder if I can instruct the dealer to prep the car accordingly for when I take delivery?
3) Is a dark colored car difficult to maintain? This used to be a resounding "YES" when I lived in the NorthEast, but recently I moved to the SF Bay Area. Without the snow & sand & salt, are there still issues?
Before my 330i gets here, I need to sell my old car. I've never sold a car before, so I'm not sure how it works. When someone gives me the cashier's check, can I just hand over the title and the keys and be done with it? Or does some paperwork have to be done at the DMV? I live in California, but I still have Wisconsin registration. Thanks for the advice!
"DAG" or "MACO" fees are legit. This is the fee the dealer pays to BMW for co-op advertising. The amount differs depending on what region you live in. $700.00 is the highest figure I have ever heard of. The typical fee is 1% of base INVOICE price before any options. This usually works out to $250.00-300.00. So while charging the fee is legit, it sounds like you may be getting raped on the price. Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
..is not a deal I would ever do. Here's how I look at it:
Indicated MSRP as new: $35,710. Sounds like it must be loaded with additional options you didn't mention, (e.g. SP, Xenon, Steptronic, etc?). According to Edmunds a 325i 5 speed w/ premium, HK and heated seats alone has an MSRP of under $32k. I hope the dealer didn't add B.S. items like prep and advertising fees to get up to that lofty MSRP.
Based upon your figures, guestimated US invoice of about $32,000. Guestimated European delivery invoice of about $30k. Worst case scenario for me would be your car in a brand new 2002 version for $31,500 ED, which, if ordered today, could be picked up in Europe in January and delivered back to states in February. That assumes $1,500 over ED invoice, I have been quoted as low as $1,200 over ED invoice for a 530i.
You may indeed be getting a reasonable deal relative to blue book or other used car standard. And if you want and need the car now, go for it. But for me, I greatly value having a brand new car that someone else hasn't driven for 12k miles. And, since I would be paying cash and don't need to sell my current car, it makes a lot more sense for me to go through ED and get a 2002 model at upwards of $1,000 UNDER US invoice. For me, the wait is an even trade off for getting a "made to order" car. And the cost of the trip would be negligable if I went alone using frequent flier milage (although I'd probably take my wife and kids and turn it into a mini-vacation).
I continue to be impressed that the used car market for the 3-series is so strong that the fair market value for a 1 year old car with 12k miles is roughly equal to it's invoice price brand new. It has caused me to seriously consider getting a 330i over a 530i. If I decide that the 330i isn't what I really want, it appears I could sell it after a year at breakeven or slight profit.
Good luck and please take my comments as only my personal opinions.
roc - ummm... some of us have driven in the snow before this year... just fwiw...
the guy who asked about oil changes... you can change it every 5k if you like... there's no need to though... change it when the computer tells you to... bmw is not in the business of blowing up engines... oem is castrol... the dealer probably won't be too fond of you driving up with oil for him to put in (think about it, do you go to mcdonald's and bring your own hamburger?), but he'll do it for you... "oil service" generally runs right around 100 bucks... if you choose to do the oil change yourself before the computer tells you to, don't reset the si indicators...
also, use oem oil filters... available from ultimate garage in bulk for a good price...
good luck... trust the computer, not past experience...
As pointed out above, the official oil at dealerships is Castrol Syntec, which is what I've been using in all our cars for the past 8 years. I see nothing superior about MobilOne except that Mobil spends a lot more money on marketing. I'm especially high on the Syntec 5w50 because extended oil changes mean radically different ambient temps where I live.
As for changing it at 5-7k intervals on any E46 that is not a diesel...that's a complete waste of time, money, and resources, as the BMW [and Mercedes] engineers would gladly point out to you. Modern emission controls mean a tiny fraction of the oil pollution from combustion products compared with even 5-10 years ago, and it just makes no sense at all to dump this oil at those mileages. But for some reason, in this country no one wants to trust the engineering on this topic - oil changes are apparently a nearly religious question. In the EU, extended changes have been the norm for years, with or without synthetic oil. But of course, you must suit yourself as you see fit...
Finally, why you would want to dump the factory fill of Syntec in favor of Mobil [or anything else] right off the boat is a complete mystery...
fyi, the DAG or MACO fee is charged by dealers in metropolitan areas. twoof1 was correct and precise in his explanation of the fee. It is legit, and is a 'pool' of advertising dollars that all metro dealers contribute to. If you are willing (and able) to venture outside of your city, you may be able to find a dealer that does not have this fee.
Example: I live in Houston, and dealers wanted $500 to $600 for the MACO fee. Called a dealership 2 hours o/s of Houston, and they had no fee.
Try this option. Join BMW CCA for $35/yr. Get 12 subscription of Roundel (one of the best club mags around), get parts discount from participating vendors, and participate in your local chapter run Car Control Clinic, Autocross, and Performance Driving Schools.
Yup, habitat1 makes all the points I would have made and then some. I would not consider that a great deal on a used 325i when there are such good deals to be had on new ones, particularly via ED. Going ED, you could even be in a stripper 330i for $32K including a round trip ticket to Munich.
13 days and counting to my own Euro Delivery... Oh, the agony.
I was always taught to change oil every 3,000 miles, and after the first 1,000 miles when the car is brand new. This wasn't too expensive, considering I only drive about 11,000 miles per year. I've stuck with this philosophy even when the OEM recommended longer intervals. I heard once that race car builders use the same exact oil that we can buy in the store - they just change it after every race. I wouldn't guess there is ANY difference at all between Castrol Synthetic and Mobile 1. Then again, I never paid $100.00 for an oil change! BMW's come with 3 year free maintenance, so I'll be covered for the life of my 36 month lease. I can't imagine any oil change being worth $100.00, though. For that price, it better come with a wash, a wax, and sex in the back seat. Sounds like a major rip off.
Comments
I will stand corrected on my 'anti-cai' comment I typed earlier. I must have misunderstood. Like you and I discussed earlier, I would have to agree that out of all the mods, the CAI seems to offer the most 'bang for the buck', and is a no-brainer to install (and uninstall)! On top of that, it is one of the few mods that I think I understand the mechanics of!
Thanks also for reminding me of the many benefits my V1 has over the competitors. I was mainly thinking about getting the 8500 b/c I have a 30% off coupon good on any item, and they sell escort products...
Ccotenj:
Good idea about testing temp while running vs idle...not that sophisticated...yet!
Yes, the parable about the fox that couldn't reach the grapes (they were probably sour)...is alive and well in our house. Any mod over about $500 dollars falls into that category for me. I figure any mod over that should have been installed by BMW to begin with when I plunked down $30K plus!!! ; )
A truce it is. I let my fur get ruffled when discussions turn to AWD & RWD. It seems whenever I mention RWD to people, they seem to think I'll be in a ditch after the first snow fall.
It sounds like we're looking at the same basic car so we do agree with each other.
In the end, everyone needs to make the choice for themselves and at least these discussions give people differing points of view.
Regarding the SP, BMWUSA shows "Sport suspension calibration" as a package option for the 325i. Regarding tires, you can always put performance tires on your 16" x 7" rims, but a set of 17" x 8" rims will cost you most of the $1200 package cost.
Personally, I like the SP steering wheel and seats better than the standards so the SP suits me well. I just hope I don't get stuck at work in a sudden snowstorm without a chance to change tires :-)
-Murray
http://www.radartest.com/DS4HEM.html
Stephen
Best Regards,
Shipo
Stephen
But coming from behind, in the dark, this guy thunks his squeegee onto my glass. Using my speedy reflexes, I flicked on my wipers, which came on with a loud groan, whacking the squeegee out of the way and scaring the guy. I think he jumped about 3 feet and ran off.
So, Dave: My wiper motors make a loud sound as well. They are also very strong which will be handy come winter.
BTW: I installed winter wipers this weekend as I needed to replace mine anyway.
What I did was unworthy, but in my defense, it was dark (late at night and under the Gardiner) and I was alone. He came running up to my passenger door from behind and freaked me out.
I park outdoors at work, it rains a lot here and my commute is through a lot of construction. So I used my wipers a great deal this summer. I'll need them more in winter.
"more features"? Not sure what that would entail. To me, the boogey counter and the directional arrows are more important than any other "user-friendly" features. Trust me, in the world, they make a huge difference.
The V1 unit is slightly larger than most other units but it is not something that bothers me. I mean, we're talking about a difference of 1/2" or so. Yep, I also heard they are coming up with a redesign within a few months but they also offer free upgrade path for 12 months (I think).
I forgot to mention to you that you can control the detection channels on the V1 to the degree that it eliminates 95+% of the false alarms. The microwave frequency can be shut off completely, so you won't ever get a false alarm due to a security system in a commercial area nearby. On a drive from Boston to Albany (170 miles), I'd probably get 2-3 false alarms each way, always in the same places.
It seems to me that you're looking for a reason why you should spend a couple of hundred dollars extra compared to other radar detectors. It's a valid concern and I hope that my post can help you make a better decision. I think the most expensive ticket I've had was about $340 - the V1 would have paid for itself right there.
I guess I'll just have to test drive both suspension packages and decide if I want to spring for the SP and endure the ride. I can't afford a 330, so that is not an option. Is the handling of the non SP really THAT bad? I've heard it is still pretty awesome and sporting - and that the SP is downright racecar-like. I'll have to drive my brother's SP again (after he takes his snow tires off in the spring!!!).
Stephen
With the engine and radio off, I just actuated my wipers and I can hear a fairly quiet wining noise typical of a wiper motor. The noise should be fairly unobtrusive, if not, it sounds like you need a new motor and/or gearbox (wiper gearbox that is).
As far as replacement intervals, wiper blades should be replaced at least once per year, regardless of how much they have been used. The sun takes its toll on the rubber and blades that have not been used frequently have a tendency to remain bent in their resting position. When that happens, you will get a nice smooth quiet wipe on the way down but a very noisy/bumpy wipe on the way up with a lot of water marks on the glass.
Skobola,
I bought my replacement blades from www.autozone.com. The actual blades are:
ANCO N-24R – 598mm (Drivers Side)
ANCO N-20R – 496mm (Passengers Side)
I have found that these work as well as the original equipment and are a fraction of the cost of BMW or Bosch blades.
Best Regards,
Shipo
debate on awd vs. rwd: will everyone please wait until the country get some snow and then talk about which system is better. i myself have a 330 xi, and can't wait to test it on snow and slush. who knows, maybe it'll turn out to be the best thing since apple pie, and then again, it may have been a complete waste of money. until it snows, all the previous discussion on this board doesn't mount to diddly.
zaino vs. klasse: when i first bought my car, i bought all the zaino accessories including clay bar, z1, z2, z5, and z6 and followed step by step instructions on beautifying my car. it took me about 3 days worth of work over 2 weekends to make the car look nice, but the shine didn't last too long on my jet black beauty. the zaino didn't do too good a job keeping dust and water spots off the car, and unlike traditional carnauba wax, i didn't find the rain water rolling off the car. this past weekend i washed my car then used klasse all-in-one followed by the high gloss sealant. the application of the klasse was not that difficult, but it was a little harder to wipe off than zaino was. the big difference between zaino and klasse was the fact that i didn't wait for hours for the klasse to dry before wiping it off, which saves a huge amount of time. the end result was that the shine with klasse seemed just as good or maybe even a little better than zaino. it hasn't rained in ny since i washed the car, so i don't know how klasse will hold up to the rain and dirt.
3 series vs. 5 series: my friend just got his MY2002 530i w/prem/sp pkg. i was very impressed by how nice the interior of the 530i was compared w/my PP/SP 330xi MY2001. the on-board computer was much more fully functional and laid out better.
the most impressive difference was the sound of the premium stereo on the 5 c/w my 3. the 5 had a much richer sound quality w/digital signal processing, and it actually sounded fantastic. the hk system in my car is very dull sounding, and while i was okay w/it before, i am very disappointed by it now. it almost sounds like my hk system has only 4 speakers--i'm still looking for where the rest of the 8 speakers are. did they change the amps for the 2002 3 series?
one last thing is that the sport pkg (M) steering wheel on the 5 series is much thicker, meatier, and better looking than the 3 spoke sport pkg steering wheel on my 3. the steering wheel on my car is rather thin and cheap looking compared to the 5. even audi has a much more sporty steering wheel. maybe i will upgrade to an M steering wheel later.
1) I plan to change the oil every 5-7K mi. Why do I hear about exorbitant costs for this procedure?
2) Is anyone knowledgeable on the synthetic brand dealers use in the cars? I prefer Mobile 1 and wonder if I can instruct the dealer to prep the car accordingly for when I take delivery?
3) Is a dark colored car difficult to maintain? This used to be a resounding "YES" when I lived in the NorthEast, but recently I moved to the SF Bay Area. Without the snow & sand & salt, are there still issues?
All the info is at the following link:
http://www.dmv.ca.gov/faq/faq.htm
I have been driving since 1970 but it sounds like this might be fun, besides learning about car control.
Thanks,
cnorthrup
Indicated MSRP as new: $35,710. Sounds like it must be loaded with additional options you didn't mention, (e.g. SP, Xenon, Steptronic, etc?). According to Edmunds a 325i 5 speed w/ premium, HK and heated seats alone has an MSRP of under $32k. I hope the dealer didn't add B.S. items like prep and advertising fees to get up to that lofty MSRP.
Based upon your figures, guestimated US invoice of about $32,000. Guestimated European delivery invoice of about $30k. Worst case scenario for me would be your car in a brand new 2002 version for $31,500 ED, which, if ordered today, could be picked up in Europe in January and delivered back to states in February. That assumes $1,500 over ED invoice, I have been quoted as low as $1,200 over ED invoice for a 530i.
You may indeed be getting a reasonable deal relative to blue book or other used car standard. And if you want and need the car now, go for it. But for me, I greatly value having a brand new car that someone else hasn't driven for 12k miles. And, since I would be paying cash and don't need to sell my current car, it makes a lot more sense for me to go through ED and get a 2002 model at upwards of $1,000 UNDER US invoice. For me, the wait is an even trade off for getting a "made to order" car. And the cost of the trip would be negligable if I went alone using frequent flier milage (although I'd probably take my wife and kids and turn it into a mini-vacation).
I continue to be impressed that the used car market for the 3-series is so strong that the fair market value for a 1 year old car with 12k miles is roughly equal to it's invoice price brand new. It has caused me to seriously consider getting a 330i over a 530i. If I decide that the 330i isn't what I really want, it appears I could sell it after a year at breakeven or slight profit.
Good luck and please take my comments as only my personal opinions.
roc - ummm... some of us have driven in the snow before this year... just fwiw...
the guy who asked about oil changes... you can change it every 5k if you like... there's no need to though... change it when the computer tells you to... bmw is not in the business of blowing up engines... oem is castrol... the dealer probably won't be too fond of you driving up with oil for him to put in (think about it, do you go to mcdonald's and bring your own hamburger?), but he'll do it for you... "oil service" generally runs right around 100 bucks... if you choose to do the oil change yourself before the computer tells you to, don't reset the si indicators...
also, use oem oil filters... available from ultimate garage in bulk for a good price...
good luck... trust the computer, not past experience...
-Chris
As for changing it at 5-7k intervals on any E46 that is not a diesel...that's a complete waste of time, money, and resources, as the BMW [and Mercedes] engineers would gladly point out to you. Modern emission controls mean a tiny fraction of the oil pollution from combustion products compared with even 5-10 years ago, and it just makes no sense at all to dump this oil at those mileages. But for some reason, in this country no one wants to trust the engineering on this topic - oil changes are apparently a nearly religious question. In the EU, extended changes have been the norm for years, with or without synthetic oil. But of course, you must suit yourself as you see fit...
Finally, why you would want to dump the factory fill of Syntec in favor of Mobil [or anything else] right off the boat is a complete mystery...
Example: I live in Houston, and dealers wanted $500 to $600 for the MACO fee. Called a dealership 2 hours o/s of Houston, and they had no fee.
hope this add'l info helps.
13 days and counting to my own Euro Delivery... Oh, the agony.