I will be ordering the Z1, Z2, Z5 (I have swirls and a couple of scratches) and Z6. I was planning on continuing to use my "Mothers" car wash, but maybe I should just get the Z7 as well while I'm paying for the shipping. Do you recommend it?
Also: I've noticed that the paint scratches and chips very easily - I read somewhere that BMW, MB and others use an environment friendly paint that is less durable. True? If so, does Zaino help?
Don't trade in your V1. The real beauty of the V1 lies in the counter and directional arrows. V1 has a good ad on the back of the Roundel. It's advertising but it does give a graphic example of why the counter and arrows give an advantage. For me, when I didn't have this info, I tended to ignore alarms or even turn off the detector because I couldn't tell what I needed to pay attention to and what I didn't. With the V1, I have enough info to decide. It's saved me many times and is well worth the money. I highly recommend hardwiring it. I makes the whole thing more convenient. Also, if you live in an area where the cops have done away with X band radar, turn off the X band detection. There are directions at the Valentine web site. Most false alarms come from alarms systems that use X band. If you can safely turn it off, you'll nearly eliminate false alarms.
Jason: You need to really give the throttle a good blip downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. There's a big difference between those gears.
Yes. The paint they use is environmentally friendly, water-based and is less durable. Of course, with the clear coat and any good wax/polymer layer will protect the paint, I assume. I'm anxoius to see how this Zaino stuff works out. I'd like to give it a really good base layer more for protection than show. Good luck and hopefully someday, I will provide some pics...
reubencahn,
Sorry...can you describe what a "good blip" is? That is, where should I be on the tac when I attempt it?
I'd go ahead and get the Z7, at least you know it'll be compatable with the restg of the Zaino products. The one bottle should last at least a year. For me it'll last 2 to 3 years since I'll probably only wash the car a few times a year at most. I'll just QD with Z6.
Yep, that's what I did. I should get it tomorrow or the day afer. (The distributor here offers next-day delivery). But it's more expensive here - add duties and 15% tax. No fun.
But I'm sure it will be worth it.
Looking forward to lots of elbow grease this weekend.
I mean quickly depress the pedal to give it a good bit of gas and bring the revs up. When I downshift depends on what I'm doing. If I'm noodling around, I won't downshift until the engine feels sluggish. If I'm driving hard I'll try to always keep the revs above 3k (by feel, I don't watch my tach much). Also, I have a 2000 328. The gap between 2nd and 3rd is large and when I downshift, I need to bring the revs up a good bit. I don't remember if you've got a 325 or 330 but the gearing may be different and the gap less large. I'll try to watch my tach when I go home tonight and see if I can give you any more useful info tomorrow.
V1 all the way. The only other radar detector to consider would be the BEL 850
Downshifting - do not get discouraged. It takes some time. Using a bit more gas is a good tip. For all my bragging, I've also done the gear-grinding thing a couple of times. As far as downshifting, if your body leaps forward due to inertia, you are abruptly downshifting into an RPM level that is too high for that gear. 3-rd to 2-nd is toughest, I agree, and I give it a little gas in between gears sometimes to match the revs better. So here's how it goes (example): 1. You are in 3-rd at 3K 2. Clutch 3. Put it in neutral 4. Tap on the gas for a split second till you hit 3-4K 5.Then put it in 2-nd 6. Quickly release clutch and step on the gas at the same time at about the same rate.
If you downshift into lower RPM's than that (like 2K going to 3K RPM's), you don't necessarily need to do this. Keep practicing - it will all come together in a couple of days and you will be very proud of yourself. There is nothing embarrassing about learning - it wins my respect.
Well, I picked up my 2001 330xi (number 2) from the body shop yesterday, and they did a great job. Of course, all they had to do was replace and paint the bumper cover and replace the exhaust system.
While I was there, I saw a brand new Porsche Boxster, pretty much totalled. Apparently, the dealer called the purchaser to come pick it up and she was in the office filling out paperwork. The salesman took it out to "gas it up" and wrapped it around a tree. I've got some pics of it, and if I can figure out how to post them here, I will. Unbelievable!
Anyway, I'd like to try the Zaino products, since I've got a black car, and it's impossible to keep clean. Just curious...why do they require you to print off an order form and send in a check? It seems to me that if they are saavy enough to have a website, they could/should have web order capabilities and should accept credit cards. That would significantly speed up delivery.
Rather than be embarrassed at your difficulties in learning to drive your manual transmission Bimmer, you should be PROUD that you have the sense and guts to learn and to try something new. I personally believe that a manual is CLEARLY the way to go with a 3-Series, because driving a manual puts the driver in much better touch with his vehicle and with the whole driving experience.
The online ordering has everything to do with Sal Zaino and nothing to do with not being able to. Apparantly, he's content being a "small guy". He doesn't really want to grow too fast or get too big.
He also prefers, but doesn't require, obviously, that people go through his local distributors. If you email him, he'll let you know who the closest distributor.
I'm thinking of purchasing a silver BMW 325ci and I've heard in a few message postings that this color of payment may be of poor quality or is otherwise a problem. Any info on this would be helpful.
I'm contemplating purchasing BMW's car phone w/voice recognition software as an option at the time I buy my BMW 325ci, but its a little on the pricey side, i.e. $1600 msrp. I like the voice recognition/hands free feature which is the real motivation for buying the phone, but I think I can get it cheaper buy having a non-BMW phone installed elsewhere. The salesman claims the installation won't work or that it will void my warranty. I'm not too sure about this. Any thoughts?
Silver is a great color on the 3, but they're everywhere. It's easy to keep clean, and it really brings out the lines of the 3, but I'd try to steer clear of it just because there are so many around, at least here in Northern Virginia/DC. I have Steel Gray Metallic 325Ci, and it gets plenty of looks largely b/c the color is not that common, I believe (it ain't the driver, that's for sure).
ok.....day 15 since my 330i arrived on american soil....2 scratches and possibly the fan issue have kept it at vpc....somebody shoot me now and put me out of my misery!!!
In the past, silver paint on many (all?) brands of cars had a tendancy to fade pretty badly. My understanding is that paint quality has improved over the years and this isn't really a problem any more.
That said, I agree with deepdarkblu that there are far too many silver 3 series out there and steel-gray or steel-blue might be a better choice if you're looking to separate yourself from the crowd. I have Topaz (which is beautiful), but if I were to do it over, would probably get one of those two colors since they would be easier to keep clean.
...is often considered "too common" on German cars in the USA, whereas it is the most requested color in Germany itself. [Patriotism, after all...]
The old bromide about silver fading prematurely must be 15-20 years ago, anyway. Even then, I never heard of it happening on ANY car that had been properly cared for...only when the owner decided that it could be endlessly parked outside [especially in the sun] with no protection and no regular care. Do that to any car, in any color, today or yesterday, and you'll eventually manage to kill the paint. I did know of problems early on when the water-based paints were first introduced - everybody had troubles, imports and domestics alike. As usual, the worst were GM, but for awhile there, nobody could get it quite right. Now, the universal complaint [and I do mean universal - every forum board is filled with owners who think it only applies to their particual make, be it MB, BMW, Honda, Toyota, you-name-it] is the relative brittleness of the water-based paints. Lots of chipping, especially on bumpers, that old-times claim never happened with oil-based enamels. Well, my memory is that every car I've ever owned, back to 1962, would chip if you threw a rock at it...the real culprits are the volume of traffic these days and the state of American roads, which tends toward lousy. It's hard to drive any distance these days in urbanized areas without having "stuff" kicked in your car's face.
Jimbres:The spoiler is from BMW but I agree the 330 lines are great the way they are and the spoiler would probably spoil the beauty.I have 1000 miles on my xi and couldn't be happier.It is Black Metallic and doesn't show dirt the way plain Black does.Also,anyone considering Black,Grey,White,etc should check out the Red leather interior.I have it with Brushed Metal trim and it's a knockout.
BMW sells twice as many silver cars as all other colors combined. That said, I chose silver because it was also the color I enjoyed the most. Although Steel Gray is really growing on me to the point I almost wish I wouild have chose it!
I have a 325 manual and I found no problems downshifting from 4th to 3rd. I usually downshift rather than ride on the brakes. Reubencahn was right about matching your wheel speed with your rpms when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. There is a big gap there and I've been trying to hone that technique for a few weeks now but I need to find some place to practice "blipping" the accelerator while you the depress the clutch and brake to match your rpms with your speed to ensure a smooth transition. Edmunds has an article on Heel Toe Downshifting that is a must read if you are driving a manual. They teach the same technique on the Bondurant and the Bragg-Smith driving schools.
Brave1 - I hate to confess, but I'm actually thinking of selling my Undetectable K40 ($600 PLUS installation!) and getting the V1 ! I like the idea of the totally clean and straight forward hard wire (via the ugdo wiring) as opposed to the some what more evasive K40 - which still totally rocks as a radar. I'd be interested to hear how you place yours. I'd like to mount it as high as possible but does it interfere with the sun shade use? I don't care if the sensor is behind the blue/green strip, by the way.
resipsa32 - If your dealer said they can do it for $1600 INCLUDING installation, that actually would be a REALLY good deal ! I would guess that $1,850 would be their cost on the whole lot, including the voice recognition module.
jrct9454 - I second your thoughts on silver (or any other) paint and it's deterioration.
pal12 - A small but noticeable clunk, or up to 3 clunks if you hear them, is normal. As long as it's an AWD, it is normal to experience this characteristic. It's drive line shunt or take-up. Due to the nature of how an AWD system works, having three differentials all joined together that all need to turn at slightly different rates during normal driving requires that a small amount of play exist in these units. As the vehicle moves away and engine power travels through to gear box, each differentials input shaft "catches up" to the cogs "take point". Literally, if you got under the car and grabbed either of the drive shafts, you'd feel a little play in each direction if you twisted it. When you slow down, the input shafts "move" to the other side and as you move off again, you hear that clunk as each shaft "takes". The third one, so to speak, you can't see. It's the one from the back of the 'box into the center diff. RWD versions don't do it. Having said that, over time a tiny amount of ware occurs which would be enough to have a similar effect.
For anyone interested, here is some information on exterior colors. Top 10 colors for the 3 series in MY 2000: Silver, Jet Black, White, Steel Blue, Orient Blue, Fern Green, Topaz Blue, Bright Red, Steel Gray, Light Yellow.
Top ten for all European Cars: Silver/Gray(32%), White(15%), Blue Met.(13%), Black(13%), Red Met.(8%), Green(8%), Blue solid(4%), Red solid(3%), Brown(1%), Yellow(1%).
Unboringuy, my car is Jet Black too. Whew! Looks bad when dirty, looks great when clean. I sent in my order today to Zaino for Z1 and Z2. I like Lexol for the leather and 3M Hand Glaze for a swirl remover. I've read enough about Zaino, so I guess it's time to try it.
Thanks for the response! I've installed other cd players in other vehicles. I just wasn't familiar with the Alpine unit. I've looked but don't see the pre-wired cables. Where are they located? I don't want to tear all the covers off the inside of the trunk hunting them if I don't have to. My car is black sapphire metallic with the sport and premium pkgs. What a fun car to drive!!
I've tried many different products and I've found that Klasse all-in-one offers the absolute best protection, finish and paint cleaning product on the market. I don't even use the sealant they offer - that's for the "real" finish enthusiasts. I was switched onto it by a buddy at work, I was quite skeptical at first as in my mind it was just not possible to have one product that would really do it all AND last so long. I think you can get it at Rocky Mountain Motor Works (I think that's their name). It amazes me every time I use it!
All of sudden I started realizing (on my 325xi) that my steering wheel makes a clicking sound if the left or right indicator is ON and when I turn the steering wheel. Is that normal in all bimmers or is there something coming in its way when I rotate it. I tried adjusting the steering back and forth but that didnt work. Any comments would be appreciated.
Second, I notice that there is slight hesitation when I start the car first time in the morning. The engine doesnt turn on smoothly. Is that normal too ?
There should be a removable trim panel on left side of trunk. Once removed, you should see a small box (which is the antenna amplifier) backed by an insulation pad. When you do the installation, you'll remove both of those, and the audio amplifier is behind the insulation pad. There's a thick cable that plugs into this amplifier. There's also a thinner, 2-connector cable which you will see coming from the upper right corner. This will plug into the CD changer. All of this is clearly explained and illustrated in the instructions that come with installation kit. Just remember that you will need to order the "Installation Kit" and a new trim panel as well as changer. My part numbers were: Changer 82110026418 Install Kit 82110020834 Trim Panel number depends on upholstery color
Just be sure to double-check these numbers for your 330i. Remember, I have a 2000 323 wagon, which could be different. Also note that the information I'm giving you applies only if you DON'T have the in-dash single CD or the Navigation System. Let me know if you need more help.
From all I have read, I have gathered the following information on caring for my car: Leather - Lexol Plastic - Vinylex (anything better??) Wheels - Mothers (Does anyone recommend a particular product?) Paint - Zaino.......Is this correct for minimum care.....Dawn wash, Z-7, Z-1, Z-2, Z-6??? Question....is dawn safe (assuming clear coat paint)? After washing with dawn, do you wash with Z-7 before applying Z-1, and Z-2? or is Z-7 for subsequent washes?
Any comments would be appreciated or if better products are known, please inform us all!
I've enjoyed the discussions on shifting, heel-and-toe, etc. Here's another litle exercise that really illustrates the effectiveness of matching engine revs with the driving wheels. I DO NOT recommend any of you try this on your Bimmers -- a beater manual is a far better choice.
You can actually do ALL shifting without the clutch (except launching from a standstill, of course). It's just a matter of matching revs. For example:
Say you are accelerating leisurely and want to upshift from 3rd to 4th. While in third at equilibrium (neither accelerating nor decelerating), the shifter will very easily slip out of gear and into neutral, because there's no acc/dec forces on the driveline. When this happens, let off the gas, allowing the revs to drop. As the revs drop, apply some pressure into 4th gear's slot -- when the revs match, the gear lever will easily slip into 4th. No clutch necessary! Anytime gears are turning at the same rate, the cogs between them can easily slip back and forth. It's the RELATIVE angular velocity difference between the gears that causes grinding. Same angular speed = no grinding. That's what synchros help ensure -- synchronization of the gears' angular velocities. You can apply the above to any scenario, whether up- or down-shifting, as long as the revs are matched appropriately.
Again, DO NOT try this on your new Bimmers, as this technique increases the likelihood of gear grinding and potential damage. Get your hands on a '93 Civic (or rough equivalent) manual and try it out! It's a neat way to experience exactly what the clutch/synchros actually do, mechanically, on a firsthand basis.
You're right about the red interior. I paired the tanin red with steel grey, & the combination is a knockout. Even my wife, who regards me as challenged in matters of color & who thought I was crazy to order red upholstery, now loves the combo.
All right, you guys have me about 98% convinced that Zaino is the way to go for my yet-to-be-built steel blue 330i. Yet, I was wondering if any of you Zaino users have prior experience with products from Griot's Garage? This is a catalog/internet company that sells top-of-the-line detailing products, as well as other auto accessories. I just put a couple of coats of their Best of Show Wax on my black 93 maxima, and it looks like it just rolled off the assembly line (until you get up close and see 8 years-worth of door dings...why can't people be CAREFUL!?). Can the Zaino products really be superior?
Hah! I never tried that with my '90 Civic HB....wish I did at least once to experience it. Man, I actually missed that lil' college beater....never had to worry about the tranny on that one.
Does anyone depress the clutch all the way down when shifting...I'm sure most can usually feel where it is safely disengaged....but, sometimes, I get in a habit of "coasting" as I'm braking which I know is not very efficient...this is why I asked about the downshifting techniques....
Mother's on wheels...I just got done last night washing the rims with some Dawn and warm water....are the rims very well coated...what shouldn't I use.....
Aaron330i, since it seems I'm one of the few "moms" in the group, here's my car seat recommendation (assuming you were refering to a kid's car seat). If the kid is old enough to sit facing forward, Cosco (not sure of spelling) makes a very nice Eddie Bauer seat. I have one in blue/tan that matches perfectly with my steel blue/sand combo. It doesn't show dirt/stains which is a big plus. And, it's not tacky like most seats. The best part is it converts to a booster seat, so the kid can use it until they're big enough to have the seat belt alone fit properly.
J330 re: Zaino - you are correct in the order of product use. You need to use the Z7 before the Z1/Z2 wash to get rid of any detergent residue left by Dawn. You only need to use Dawn once for the initial washing to get rid of any wax or other stuff that was on the car to begin with. Even tho' my car was brand new when I did the first treatment, I used the clay bar. I was surprised to see dirt, etc. coming off on the bar. The paint was super smooth after claying, which I think added to the great finish I have now.
I picked up my new, Titanium Silver, 325i yesterday. It's stunning and drives beautifully. The German license plate adds an extra pinnach, not that it needs. It pays to do your homework. This site has been extremely helpful; from the first stages of negotiating a new car to the last one in taking ownership. This poster is grateful for all the assistance SHE'S received
Shifting: I always depress the clutch all the way. Downshifting over coasting - 95% of the time.
Exterior cleaning - I've decided to go with Carnauba wax (probably the one that you can pick up at the dealer). Zaino is overkill IMO and it makes the car look much shinier but I think that wax actually makes the metallic colors in the paint stand out more and is less glossy overall. Just a personal preference.
German design - unimpressive outside of the automotive world. Italian and French design typically win me over as far as European products.
I am now thinking of leasing a 325 or 330i. Are there any deals out there right now. Can you explain how much I would put down and what the monthly payment would be? I am new to the leasing option, as I have always bought. Also, will I be restricted to driving 10k miles or year or is that negotiable and do I pay for maintaince? Thanks in advance to all who can help...
Thanks for the response on the cloth seat instead of leather. I guess I do not understand the big delay in making cloth seats instead of leather. That would be a bummer to wait until perhaps early next year to get my car. I can understand the reluctance of BMW in making cloth seats for leased vehicles, since they need to be sold. But as a buyer I assume all the risk in reselling, which is unlikely for me. I normally keep my cars for a long time.
Now let me pose another question to you and all other reader. What is your opinion in covering the leather seats with custom made clothe fabric during the summer, so I do not get 3rd degree burns on my buns. Would that damage the seat?
someone who used to post here regularly touted the sheepskin vests for bmw seats. They don't cover the whole seat but only the seating area. The come color matched. I think you can get them from Circle BMW.
i thought i would check for a response during the post lunch session but I guess the heat wave is killing everyone ... is it ... or everyone has taken off while Governor Pataki has asked NY State Offices to Close down by 2 pm today.
I have previously used www.finishfirstpolish.com on my 1998 Honda Prelude with outstanding results. I have always received compliments on my paint shine etc. It is a synthetic polish I believe the same as Zaino. Did anyone here compare it with Zaino? I know a lot of you brag about Zaino results, however I am wondering if it is just the same stuff in different packaging. Both companies have the same marketing strategy and are not available in retail stores.
Is it a continual clicking as you turn the wheel or is it just one click. If it's one, is it possible that it is the mechanism that turns the turn signal off?
Comments
Any opinions?
Also: I've noticed that the paint scratches and chips very easily - I read somewhere that BMW, MB and others use an environment friendly paint that is less durable. True? If so, does Zaino help?
seat covers or .......? for black ette. I've got a loaner with black ette and it's a killer in this heat.
Anyone used this "leather in a bottle" claims on the site that you can use it on vinyl seats and get that leather smell???
Don't trade in your V1. The real beauty of the V1 lies in the counter and directional arrows. V1 has a good ad on the back of the Roundel. It's advertising but it does give a graphic example of why the counter and arrows give an advantage. For me, when I didn't have this info, I tended to ignore alarms or even turn off the detector because I couldn't tell what I needed to pay attention to and what I didn't. With the V1, I have enough info to decide. It's saved me many times and is well worth the money. I highly recommend hardwiring it. I makes the whole thing more convenient. Also, if you live in an area where the cops have done away with X band radar, turn off the X band detection. There are directions at the Valentine web site. Most false alarms come from alarms systems that use X band. If you can safely turn it off, you'll nearly eliminate false alarms.
Jason: You need to really give the throttle a good blip downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. There's a big difference between those gears.
Yes. The paint they use is environmentally friendly, water-based and is less durable. Of course, with the clear coat and any good wax/polymer layer will protect the paint, I assume. I'm anxoius to see how this Zaino stuff works out. I'd like to give it a really good base layer more for protection than show. Good luck and hopefully someday, I will provide some pics...
reubencahn,
Sorry...can you describe what a "good blip" is? That is, where should I be on the tac when I attempt it?
But I'm sure it will be worth it.
Looking forward to lots of elbow grease this weekend.
Downshifting - do not get discouraged. It takes some time. Using a bit more gas is a good tip. For all my bragging, I've also done the gear-grinding thing a couple of times. As far as downshifting, if your body leaps forward due to inertia, you are abruptly downshifting into an RPM level that is too high for that gear. 3-rd to 2-nd is toughest, I agree, and I give it a little gas in between gears sometimes to match the revs better. So here's how it goes (example):
1. You are in 3-rd at 3K
2. Clutch
3. Put it in neutral
4. Tap on the gas for a split second till you hit 3-4K
5.Then put it in 2-nd
6. Quickly release clutch and step on the gas at the same time at about the same rate.
If you downshift into lower RPM's than that (like 2K going to 3K RPM's), you don't necessarily need to do this. Keep practicing - it will all come together in a couple of days and you will be very proud of yourself. There is nothing embarrassing about learning - it wins my respect.
While I was there, I saw a brand new Porsche Boxster, pretty much totalled. Apparently, the dealer called the purchaser to come pick it up and she was in the office filling out paperwork. The salesman took it out to "gas it up" and wrapped it around a tree. I've got some pics of it, and if I can figure out how to post them here, I will. Unbelievable!
Anyway, I'd like to try the Zaino products, since I've got a black car, and it's impossible to keep clean. Just curious...why do they require you to print off an order form and send in a check? It seems to me that if they are saavy enough to have a website, they could/should have web order capabilities and should accept credit cards. That would significantly speed up delivery.
Thoughts anyone?
I say, "kudos".
He also prefers, but doesn't require, obviously, that people go through his local distributors. If you email him, he'll let you know who the closest distributor.
DDB
That said, I agree with deepdarkblu that there are far too many silver 3 series out there and steel-gray or steel-blue might be a better choice if you're looking to separate yourself from the crowd. I have Topaz (which is beautiful), but if I were to do it over, would probably get one of those two colors since they would be easier to keep clean.
The old bromide about silver fading prematurely must be 15-20 years ago, anyway. Even then, I never heard of it happening on ANY car that had been properly cared for...only when the owner decided that it could be endlessly parked outside [especially in the sun] with no protection and no regular care. Do that to any car, in any color, today or yesterday, and you'll eventually manage to kill the paint. I did know of problems early on when the water-based paints were first introduced - everybody had troubles, imports and domestics alike. As usual, the worst were GM, but for awhile there, nobody could get it quite right. Now, the universal complaint [and I do mean universal - every forum board is filled with owners who think it only applies to their particual make, be it MB, BMW, Honda, Toyota, you-name-it] is the relative brittleness of the water-based paints. Lots of chipping, especially on bumpers, that old-times claim never happened with oil-based enamels. Well, my memory is that every car I've ever owned, back to 1962, would chip if you threw a rock at it...the real culprits are the volume of traffic these days and the state of American roads, which tends toward lousy. It's hard to drive any distance these days in urbanized areas without having "stuff" kicked in your car's face.
Hope this helps.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html
resipsa32 - If your dealer said they can do it for $1600 INCLUDING installation, that actually would be a REALLY good deal ! I would guess that $1,850 would be their cost on the whole lot, including the voice recognition module.
jrct9454 - I second your thoughts on silver (or any other) paint and it's deterioration.
pal12 - A small but noticeable clunk, or up to 3 clunks if you hear them, is normal. As long as it's an AWD, it is normal to experience this characteristic. It's drive line shunt or take-up. Due to the nature of how an AWD system works, having three differentials all joined together that all need to turn at slightly different rates during normal driving requires that a small amount of play exist in these units. As the vehicle moves away and engine power travels through to gear box, each differentials input shaft "catches up" to the cogs "take point". Literally, if you got under the car and grabbed either of the drive shafts, you'd feel a little play in each direction if you twisted it. When you slow down, the input shafts "move" to the other side and as you move off again, you hear that clunk as each shaft
"takes". The third one, so to speak, you can't see. It's the one from the back of the 'box into the center diff. RWD versions don't do it. Having said that, over time a tiny amount of ware occurs which would be enough to have a similar effect.
Top ten for all European Cars: Silver/Gray(32%), White(15%), Blue Met.(13%), Black(13%), Red Met.(8%), Green(8%), Blue solid(4%), Red solid(3%), Brown(1%), Yellow(1%).
Unboringuy, my car is Jet Black too. Whew! Looks bad when dirty, looks great when clean. I sent in my order today to Zaino for Z1 and Z2. I like Lexol for the leather and 3M Hand Glaze for a swirl remover. I've read enough about Zaino, so I guess it's time to try it.
My car is black sapphire metallic with the sport and premium pkgs. What a fun car to drive!!
Second, I notice that there is slight hesitation when I start the car first time in the morning. The engine doesnt turn on smoothly. Is that normal too ?
My part numbers were:
Changer 82110026418
Install Kit 82110020834
Trim Panel number depends on upholstery color
Just be sure to double-check these numbers for your 330i. Remember, I have a 2000 323 wagon, which could be different.
Also note that the information I'm giving you applies only if you DON'T have the in-dash single CD or the Navigation System. Let me know if you need more help.
Leather - Lexol
Plastic - Vinylex (anything better??)
Wheels - Mothers (Does anyone recommend a particular product?)
Paint - Zaino.......Is this correct for minimum care.....Dawn wash, Z-7, Z-1, Z-2, Z-6??? Question....is dawn safe (assuming clear coat paint)? After washing with dawn, do you wash with Z-7 before applying Z-1, and Z-2? or is Z-7 for subsequent washes?
Any comments would be appreciated or if better products are known, please inform us all!
You can actually do ALL shifting without the clutch (except launching from a standstill, of course). It's just a matter of matching revs. For example:
Say you are accelerating leisurely and want to upshift from 3rd to 4th. While in third at equilibrium (neither accelerating nor decelerating), the shifter will very easily slip out of gear and into neutral, because there's no acc/dec forces on the driveline. When this happens, let off the gas, allowing the revs to drop. As the revs drop, apply some pressure into 4th gear's slot -- when the revs match, the gear lever will easily slip into 4th. No clutch necessary! Anytime gears are turning at the same rate, the cogs between them can easily slip back and forth. It's the RELATIVE angular velocity difference between the gears that causes grinding. Same angular speed = no grinding. That's what synchros help ensure -- synchronization of the gears' angular velocities. You can apply the above to any scenario, whether up- or down-shifting, as long as the revs are matched appropriately.
Again, DO NOT try this on your new Bimmers, as this technique increases the likelihood of gear grinding and potential damage. Get your hands on a '93 Civic (or rough equivalent) manual and try it out! It's a neat way to experience exactly what the clutch/synchros actually do, mechanically, on a firsthand basis.
Hah! I never tried that with my '90 Civic HB....wish I did at least once to experience it. Man, I actually missed that lil' college beater....never had to worry about the tranny on that one.
Does anyone depress the clutch all the way down when shifting...I'm sure most can usually feel where it is safely disengaged....but, sometimes, I get in a habit of "coasting" as I'm braking which I know is not very efficient...this is why I asked about the downshifting techniques....
J330 re: Zaino - you are correct in the order of product use. You need to use the Z7 before the Z1/Z2 wash to get rid of any detergent residue left by Dawn. You only need to use Dawn once for the initial washing to get rid of any wax or other stuff that was on the car to begin with. Even tho' my car was brand new when I did the first treatment, I used the clay bar. I was surprised to see dirt, etc. coming off on the bar. The paint was super smooth after claying, which I think added to the great finish I have now.
It pays to do your homework. This site has been extremely helpful; from the first stages of negotiating a new car to the last one in taking ownership. This poster is grateful for all the assistance SHE'S received
How does it compare to other fields of design: appliances, furniture, household gadgets, graphic design...
What about other European movements? (I'm not talking about Ikea here)
Exterior cleaning - I've decided to go with Carnauba wax (probably the one that you can pick up at the dealer). Zaino is overkill IMO and it makes the car look much shinier but I think that wax actually makes the metallic colors in the paint stand out more and is less glossy overall. Just a personal preference.
German design - unimpressive outside of the automotive world. Italian and French design typically win me over as far as European products.
Jason.
Now let me pose another question to you and all other reader. What is your opinion in covering the leather seats with custom made clothe fabric during the summer, so I do not get 3rd degree burns on my buns. Would that damage the seat?
Appreciate your input.
Any opinion is appreciated. Thanks.