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I just test drove a G35 sedaan 6-speed today and even though it's a better interior than the Maxima, it's still 1-2 notches down from the 2004 TL, IMO. For whatever reason, Nissan/Infiniti just have some ticky tacky design elements, like the little aluminum steering wheel buttons, dash / center console look, power seat buttons to the right of the seat, etc. I sincerely wish Nissan would take a styling cue from Acura on the inerior - the TL just plain looks good, like it was desinged by one person with good taste, not a committee without.
As for the Maxima's torque steer, the TL 6-speed didn't have as much, in spite of being quicker. I think it's because the TL has a lower torque higher revving engine than the Maxima.
As for the G35 AWD, the G35 6-speed I test drove had a sticker of about $33.5k, including premium without navigation. I suspect that even with discounting, the G35 AWD would be $5k+ more than a Maxima and the same or higher than a TL.
When I drive my 02 Max I accelerate quicker than most anyways. Even if I accelerate "just above average" the torque steer still isnt as bad as you imply. Now if I hammer the pedal to the floor that's a different story, but I know its coming so I take a firm hold of that wheel!
An additional $1,000 is more of a mental barrier, because I don't really think the stereo is worth it. But, the G35 is out of my league this time around, especially since I'm in MN too and would need the G35x
It appears that the service is just as bad as the initial quality in this case. How can one try to balance tires sixteen times and do it wrong over and over again? No doubt the warped rotors (and maybe even bent rims) are the result of using an impact wrench on the lugnuts and applying uneven torque over and over again. And replacing the same strut three times?
We must remember these boards usually attract two types of people, enthusiasts and those unlucky few wo got lemons. Obviously the guy who posted about chronic problems got a lemon. It happens. Out of the 50,000, you are gonna get a few bad apples, be it Nissan, Honda, Mazda or anyone.
I have driven 2 Nissans, never a single problem besides the normal maintenance.
The internet can make the rarest case seem common.......
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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The rest of the top five was the Camry XLE, Chevy Malibu LT, Altima SE and Accord EX.
You can find the specs at www.nissannews.com under vehicle news. The SE-R has the same V-6 as the SE but with lowered suspension, larger sway bars, 6spd. manual, 18 inch forged aluminum wheels, all options standard. Also has a three gauge cluster from the 350Z in the center of the dash. Interesting. No details on pricing or availability.
Actually, the more I think about it, the Max should rate pretty high. It's got as much room and power as any midsize, the styling is hit or miss, depending upon your taste, but most safety equipment, including stability control, is standard or available. In addition, as the magazine points out, you can now get a loaded Maxima for close to what you pay for a Honda Accord EX V6 with navigation.
I like the Mazda 6s too, but by the time you put the safety equipment on it, you are close to the Maxima in cost, and to me, the Maxima is a more substantial car. Of course, the MZ6 does have a rebate which widens the price difference.
The Mazda is more fun to drive, but Nissan has targeted the Altima SE against the 6s in the affordable performance sedans market. The Maxima is aimed more at the Acura TL, which is a problem because the TL , like the Accord, is an outstanding value. By the way, the TL wasn't included in the Kiplinger's comparison because the upper price limit was $30 K.
BTW, I'm seriously considering getting a new TL as a replacement for my Maxima. The primary holdback is that the Maxima still looks and drives far younger than 9.5 years and 152k miles would imply. I wish I had a family member in need of a great hand me down, it would make my decision much less guilt ridden.
But, if the money isn't a problem, I would move on. I see by your posts on the TL buyers board that you have negotiated a pretty good deal on a TL 6-speed with navi. Think of the improved safety features you will enjoy, and that sound system must be unreal. Plus, you will be doing a favor for someone who can use a great used car, right? Good luck.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
I have 139k on a 00 Maxima SE.
I had the rotors turned with new pads at 50k and replaced the rotors at 90k.
About due to have the rotors turned again with new pads.
That works out to about every 40-45k.
Far better than my last two Hondas (one civic, one accord)which seemed to need new pads every 20k and pads and rotors every 40k.
I don't blame my Nissan dealer - I had my rotors cut by an independent mechanics once, and the result was the same – rotors warped within 10-15K miles.
I am starting to suspect there is something wrong with some other part of system - the calipers, maybe. Anyway, the car has been nearly perfect otherwise (65K miles currently), so I am resigned to doing the rotors every other oil change.
By the way my car is a 2001 GLE and it sees a lot of long trips at highway speeds with very little breaking.
Our other car – an Acura RSX-S – is driven a lot more aggressively, and at 50K miles the break pads and rotors have not been touched. May need to change the pads soon, but the rotors are totally true.
My dad has an '03 with over 20K miles and has had no problems at all.
YMMV.
'24 Chevy Blazer EV 2LT
A friend with a 2000 Maxima had a much worse experience. Rotors turned 1-2 times and then replaced in less than 3 years and 36,000 miles. She managed to get this covered by Nissan under warranty, and then traded the car last year.
Oddly, my 1995 Maxima has been by far the best car I have ever owned with respect to brakes (and everything else for that matter). My old 1978 Datsun B210 was the worst. And the 2-3 friends who have 2000+ Maximas have not been happy with their brake experience, and have other issues as well. Partly as a result, the only "Nissan" product that is remotely on my shopping list for a replacement sedan or SUV is the G35 6-speed, and it's near the bottom of a list that includes the TL, 330i, 530i, E320 CDI and a few others. Nothing by Nissan/Infiniti is on my SUV shopping list. But I still love my 1995 Maxima.
On my wifes '02 Max. there was a safety recall for the Cam and crank angle sensors and a TSB for the rear wind noise. Depending on your VIN # , your '02 could be involved in 4 or 5 safety recalls. I feel like I live at my freakin dealer.
I would not recommend 5th . gens to ANYONE !!!
Let's hear from all you guys about how the " Made in Japan " cars are BETTER than the Smyrna Cars.
Bullcrap !!!!!!
Nissan's Quality control needs serious attention.
I believe there's a lesson in there somewhere!
HOWEVER, I still think this is generally the most penny-wise pound-foolish decision anyone could make. A post audit of my Maxima economics is as follows:
9.5+ years
152,200 miles
6,355 gallons of 93 octane premium gas
23.95 miles per gallon
$9,220.83 total gas expenditures
At an average savings of $0.10 per gallon, I would have saved $635 over the past 9.5 years (average of $67 per year). That's IF my gas mileage didn't suffer. If it dropped by 1 mile per gallon to 22.95, I would have burned an extra 277 gallons over 9.5 years at an average price of $1.35 (1.45 -0.10). As such, $374 of my savings would have been wiped out, leaving me with a whopping $261 in savings (about $27.50 per year). And I drive an above average 16,000 miles per year.
I can't honestly claim that the reason my engine runs as good as the day I bought the car is because I only burn 93 octane gas and change my oil every 4,000 miles. But I sure as hell wouldn't be "pound foolish" enough to burn 87 octane (or even 89-91) in the hopes of saving $27.50 or even $67 per year on a $25,000 car. Whatever remote chance that it could cause engine damage or lowered performance isn't worth it. Hell, you can buy a Chevy over a Maxima and save $10,000 if long term relaibility and performance isn't important to you.
I do make an effort to fill up with premium on Thursdays (6 cents off at Exxon). Proving that I'm not against getting a good deal, just against being imprudent about it.
Granted, it doesn't change your point that the savings are relatively small over a 10-year period, but to those, like me, who have never seen much of a difference either in gas mileage or performance in their cars no matter what octane we use, it is a savings.
I have primarily used 89 octane (sometimes 93 during the hottest summer months here in Florida, and sometimes 87 during the cool winter months) and the engine in my 92 SE is still strong. Unfortunately, a lot of stuff (water pump, oil something or other) is leaking and I'm holding off the repairs as long as I can while I try to come up with a replacement.
Granted, it doesn't change your point that the savings are relatively small over a 10-year period, but to those, like me, who have never seen much of a difference either in gas mileage or performance in their cars no matter what octane we use, it is a savings.
I have primarily used 89 octane in my car and the engine in my 92 SE is as strong today as it was 10 years ago. Unfortunately, a lot of stuff is starting to leak and I've got to decide whether to pony up for repairs or move on.
Let me quote the y2k Max manual, page 10-4: "In most parts of North America, you should use unleaded gas with at least 87 or 91 octane.... now and then you may notice light spark knock for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because ou get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load."
As I said, my engine knocks no matter what gas I use. It only does that uphill and on heavy acceleration. My beef is that it did not used to do that ON ANY gas until the engine was reprogrammed by "factory trained technicians" at the Nissan garage.
From my years doing engineering for petroleum business, I have learned that the best octane is the cheapest gas that will not knock in your engine. And again, an occasional light knock will not do any damage to your engine. All other theories such as the one related to the cost of the car in your post 8076 have not been proven by any research, to my knowledge.