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Thanks in advance
The last thing you want to do is force them, hear a click or a pop, then discover that you broke some clip or other part that you'll need to keep them in place when you re-install them.
Joe
http://www.regalgs.org/
"Transmission Traumas?"
there are very knowlegable people here.
removing them, any help is appreciated.
--adm
Have you considered going back to the mechanic & getting your money back ?
Sounds like the guy sold you a lemon & now is pissing down your back & telling you that it is raining.
The car is clearly unsafe & you should not be driving it.
Perhaps you should consider hiring an attorney.
The serpentine belt is the belt that runs through the water pump, alternator, harmonic balancer, etc. that turns everything while the engine is running. At 35,000 you might want to find out if the trasmission has been serviced. I don't buy the 100,000 mi claim for Dexron III fluid. But, it should be fairly clean still.
Hope this helps...
http://www.autotrader.com
It should give you a pretty good idea of what the going price for a '99 Regal LSE is.
By the way, I've looked at the Tirerack site and other places, but have had some problems. One thing is that the ratings are subjective (they are customer survey ratings after all), and are also hard to compare between classes of tires. I think you need to consider both the number of reviewers for a given tire, and also the mindset of the reviewers and their expectations. For example, a connoisseur of high performance handling may think, "For an ultra-performance handling tire this one is probably about as good as it gets in the snow, so I'll give it an 8 since it wasn't as bad as I expected." But in reality a tire in the performance touring category with a winter traction ranking of only 5 may actually be better than this one.
Another thing I've noticed is that customer reviews often vary so wildly for a given tire as to be almost useless! One guy is super positive while next one is pulling out his hair over problems like premature wear, lousy handling, squealing around corners, tracking in road grooves, etc. I just don't know what to believe anymore!
I suspect that some of the differences have to do with the kind of car people are trying to fit these tires to. Consequently, I am hoping to get feedback from you folks with Regals (and their corporate cousins) who have direct experience with specific tires. For reference, I've been looking mostly at Michelins. I like the Michelin site because they have a simple easy to use rating system for 6 performance characteristics, including winter traction, that allows easy comparison among their own brand. Some specific models of interest to me are the Pilot XGT H4, Energy MXV4 and Pilot Sport A/S (pricey, but they look really good on paper). Unfortunately, I've also read some very negative customer reviews for some of these, and am not sure what to think anymore.
Any help is appreciated!
Thanks.
When I looked for tires, I started from category, for example "standard touring" if you want the tires to be of the same charecter as Eagle LS, only better:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/touring.jsp
Ignored the tires with low reported mileage. Anything less than 250k to 500k miles. The new or unusual tire model may be great, but I did not want to be guinea pig. Otherwise, any of the top 3-5 tires in every category must be good, the bottom ones must be bad.
The same is mainly true of R-12 vs. R-134a. R-134a is a worse refrigerant than R-12 so the a/c systems that use R-134a usually have larger condensors and such. Using R-12 will probably result in better a/c performance. However, unlike with coolant, cost can be a big factor here. It is really expensive to buy a pound of R-12, whereas R-134a is pretty cheap (like R-12 used to be before dubious "scientists" labeled it bad). Also, the lubricants in R-12 can be incompatible with R-134a so you might need the system professionally flushed. Therefore it might be cheaper to pay someone to top off your system with R-12 than to have someone drain, flush (if needed), and refill your system with R-134a. You should look into price, but R-12 is actually the better product.
The bad news is the repair cost $1580. The good news is it was all covered by the extended warranty previously recommended on this board sold by Warranty Direct over the internet. Purchased the so-called "Diamond" version of the plan with no deductible. This one repair more than offset the cost of the warranty.
<http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=5042&sid=184&n=157>
If you want the extra power and you have a GS, this article tells you it is easily doable. And the fact that the transmission remains the same makes it more enticing for you power-hungry weekend nomads
Side note: Didn't GM show a similar prototype a couple years ago??
Regal GS, Buick's best kept secret!
Mike
No jack rabbit starts that trigger the traction control to kick in while the engine spins close to the redline.
Sorry if I confused anyone.
same day a rock chipped my windshield, i thought i heard the brakes sound kinda funny. i'm gonna get it checked out before i need rotors obviously, but what kind of experience have you guys had with the brakes on these?
My 2001 LS has 45k miles. I have not touched the brakes , and have experienced no vibration when applying the brakes. I wonder if the rotors were improved between 1998 to 2001?
also, i wanted to ask, it's only happened once, but have you guys had your passenger's side floor flooded for no particular reason?
Please email me at ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Thanks!
The owner's manual says that a dashboard light comes on when the oil needs to be changed, based on how the car is driven, etc......this is a new one on me.
I have always subsribed to the every 3,000 mile schedule...the dealer says every 3,750 miles...
How often do others here change their oil ?
Thanks in advance-
Exception: the first change at 2000 mile (break-in). And once mechanic flushed fresh oil by mistake when I brought the car for other service.
BTW I had to tell the dealer about the TSB as they were dumbfounded how water gets in the car and were making all kinds of excuses.
My factory CD player in a '95 Regal does the same thing. I've learned to live with it, I just wait till the next morning and it pops right out. This happens every-so-often. Sometimes the car is cold (Ie..just started the engine) when it eats it and sometimes it happens after listening to several other CDs. Go figure?
Times have changed, If you wish to continue to make the dealer's boat payments; well that's okay too.
I picked it up and they told me they "resurfaced all 4 rotors, then roadtested it"
Here's my question, have you ever heard of turning the rotors and NOT changing the PADS????
my logic...if my rotors were off, they would have worn my pads unevenly, therefore, they should both be replaced ...what do you guys think?
Thanks for the info