The Firestones, 721's if I remember, came a lot on the Pinto, which then bust into flames following accident...Put on Dunlop Sport A2's...Best tire I've had on a car...
My '99 LS came with Firestone [500's?]. Much noisier than the Goodyears on my '02. Less grippy, too, although they gave plenty of warning before letting go. No real prblems, though, and they were less than half worn at 40K. All of this damn faint praise because the consensus seems to be, get Dunlops or Michelins for your Regal, ASAP. The only problem with that is that the OEM shoes seem to last a long time. Just my 2 cents.
I've read the past 50 or so posts here, and I'm questioning the reliability of the Regal. Are the worst problems with the Regal the fact that steering wheel lights are a bit hotter than usual?
What about engines leaking oil, or transmission problems? Any kind of serious problems with the Buick Regal?
Can anyone tell me where the sensor is located. My 99 also seems to "stick" around 69 degrees on hot days but resumes normal operation later in the trip. Could it be a dirty sensor?
Canc...Mine had the usual problems, window motors(3), recurring oil pan leak, a/c display, but all were fixed under warranty. Go over to the NHTSA website and check out the TSBs for the Regal. The only really bad one I am hearing about now is the coolant gelling up if not changed properly or an air leak develops. GM used to say good for 150,000 miles, now it is 150,000 miles or 5 years.
I own a '98 GS and my wife owns a '00 GSE. The A/C display is out on mine, but is working with wife's. Both cars have the SC3800 (L-67)engine, which is supposed to be "bullet proof". However, we both still bought 72 month/75K mile extended warranties, just in case something major were to fail. If you read through the last 50 posts in any other Edmund's discussion group, I'm sure you'll find some complaints or negative comments about the car being discussed. NO car is completely reliable. You will always have some "lemons", no matter what make of car. My advice to you is keep reading as much as possible about the particular car you like, which may help you make the best possible decision when buying your next car. Just my 2 cents.
Bushwack says "I just can't understand what GM, Ford and Chrysler are thinking when they put the interior pieces together."
GM and the others are selling a car (Regal) that us poor folks can afford. Comparing a Regal to an expensive import is not a realistic comparison. Just for S's & G's I looked at that expensive foreign crap... was not impressed at $40K, $50K. I buy a car to drive, not to impress some anal retentive snob.
Around these parts the BMW and other dealers have by far the busiest service departments. Beware of purchasing one of these used. A friend of mine works in a VOLVO shop. He says off lease vehicles coming thru their shop are the worst abused cars he's ever seen. My Regal was a lease vehicle and has 27,000 uneventful miles on it. I buy American or Canadian only, but then I'm not a snob.
I already posted a message in Maintenance and Repair, but I was hoping maybe someone here could help me.
Today my 2000 Regal LS (43,000 miles) started losing the power steering at low speeds (under 10 MPH). Anything faster than that and the steering is normal. Can anyone give me some advice as to what could be wrong. I'm going to take it to the dealer tomorrow.
As you know (or may not know) Buick's steering system is called a variable magnetic type, which means at low speeds (or idle) the wheel is much easier to turn. This was created for older folks who may have arthritis, or lost strength in their arms, and have trouble turning the steering wheel while parallel parking. You appear to have a defective variable magnetic steering system that needs some work or replacing.
Just completed the first highway driving on my 2002 regal LS......mileage was about 27mpg @ 70mph with A/C on the entire time. The car ran well & was a pleasure to drive...no annoying squeeks or rattles.
As far as the oil change question posed earlier....I will go with every 3,000 miles. Have not looked into synthetic oil, but the Valvoline Oil change place that I use offers that service.
Just looked up the trade-in value on my 2002 Regal LS....just under $15,000. This car stickered for $24,000. I realize that you take a bath when you trade in so soon, but $9,000 ?????
Private party sale value was about $17,340. The car has 6,000 miles.
Must be the rebates that were offered earlier this year are already figured into the trade-in value.
Now I remember why my last car purchase was a Honda.
I just rented a Buick Century with 2500 miles on the clock for a week. It had the same if not more dash rattles than my 97 GS. When is GM going to start correcting thier lousy interior's?
Guy21: I have had the same problem TWICE! The sensor is located near the radiator (as I was informed by Buick). Why they go bad..could be because its located near the radiator! duh... Out of warranty, replacing this unit costs $120! Thankfully, it doesn't effect the climate control system.
Lack power, shift a little poorly, and use too much gas? Mine did, until my dealer, following a recent TSB, opened the transmission, found some "debris" inside, and replaced the valve body, several internal seals, and a gasket. Now, the symptoms were subtle - sloppy 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts; weak passing power; needing too much throttle to hold speed on even FLAT roads; and never more than 24 mpg. All the while, the revs were OK. Very much like what would happen in the old days when a "shadetree mechanic" might leave the initial timing too retarded. I mention this to guide any other owner with the same problem. My service mgr says this is the first such case he has seen. Has anyone else had the same problem?
No doubt GM vehicles depreciate faster than Hondas... You pay more for the Honda to begin with but come trade in time you get that back I suppose. You also have to consider the financing rate difference between the different auto companies for those that don't pay cash.
Generally GM vehicles don't usually sell for much more than invoice, there isn't enough demand for them otherwise.
Not so much the old rebates, as the current rebates hold price low.
Dealers are usually pricing mid-size GM car at about $2,000 below sticker. And yes, most people can get the deal. Just print the car description from Edmunds' site, including the TMV price, and bring it to dealership. Most car salesmen would see that you are prepared , and would offer reasonable price from the very beginning.
Currently GM offers $3,000 rebate to all buyers of 2002 Regal LS and GS. No Buick loyalty requires.
In other words, practically everybody can buy a new car for about $19,000. How much would he pay for slightly used car? $17,350 looks generous.
And yes, the trade-in price is even lower. Dealer's margin includes sale expenses, profit, etc.
The "occasional" shift "quirk" like something is slipping, then catching itself. No problem with power & highway mpg was 27. Everyday commute driving mpg is around 21-22, no better.
According to the NHSTA.gov website, the TSB number seems to be either service bulletin #020730013; OR Bulletin Sequence #631; dated 4/02. Your mpg numbers seem a little low to me, though better than what I had before the repair. My '99 LS always clocked 29-31 in straight highway work and about 23-25 in mixed city/hwy/suburban driving. I SEEM [wait a few tankfulls] to be getting those better numbers now. BTW, the problem seems to stem from sloppy installation of those internal seals at the transmission factory.
The service manager asked if my check engine light was coming on, which it does not. He said that is mentioned in the TSB. He said that I need to bring in the car & a mechanic must be able to duplicate the problem before he can investigate further.
says the "Check Engine Light" may come on; but, no, MY light never came on even though the other symptoms were present. Also, the service mgr AND the transmission mechanic drove the car, trying to duplicate the problem. They said they couldn't. I said that the poor shifts wre usual, but not every time, especially in the very hot weather we've been having here in NY. And I stuck to my story of low MPG. Buick paid for the work [AND a loaner] with no problem. Good luck!
The leather wrapping on my '98 GS steering wheel is starting to peel. I can't believe this is happening! I called around and got the name of someone who specializes in repairing rips in car seats. Lucky me. She will fix it for ~$40, which is a lot cheaper than replacing the cover. Has anyone else had this annoying problem?
Drove from Los Angeles to Las Vegas...2000 Regal GS w/ 23,000 miles...1 driver, 1 passenger and 70lb in the trunk...286 miles one way...drove 75-80 MPH with a/c on..got 27.7 MPG...top speed at 105 MPH...OEM GoodYear LS tires were quiet (why all the fuss that these tires are noisy?).
Driving back to Los Angeles, the same as above applies except average speed was 65 MPH and achieved 28.4 MPG.
"Just looked up the trade-in value on my 2002 Regal LS....just under $15,000. This car stickered for $24,000. I realize that you take a bath when you trade in so soon, but $9,000 ?????"
God, who buys a car for MSRP? Did you really pay 24K? I NEVER compare trade in to MSRP, I compare to actual purchase price.
I've not been able to get back in a while, so thanks to all that helped when I posted a question about tire selection back in May. Now, haha, I've got a doozy of a problem to post: Has anyone out there dealt with what a dealer might call Radial Force Variation problems...in relation to unexplainable vibration/roughness in your car at highway speeds?
My Regal GS is a 1998, and I found that GM has a 42 pg TSB relating to this problem in their cars (all lines). At the dealership I bought my car from they have a customer with a 2002 Regal GS that has developed this problem at about 20,000 miles (mine is in the mid 40's). They have put 6 different combinations of tires/rims on the car and it isn't correcting the problem. That was similar to my situation. I had a damaged tire (it got damaged when a guy fixed a flat on it) and I had vibration from just that, or so I thought. When I got new tires I still had vibration and switching between brands of tires isn't helping matters any. By all visual cues, there aren't any problems with the rims or anything amiss under the front end, but drive the car and "whoomp, there it is...".
I've done some research and found that there are RFV machines out there and they're essentially next generation tire balancers, for lack of a better term. But, this vibration I'm talking about goes beyond just a tire/rim problem, apparently. Some GM dealers are calling this type of problem RFV, but the guy I dealt with last week admitted they don't know what is causing the problem.
Another GM dealership in my area has an RFV machine and the 2002 GS was driven there yesterday for testing to see if the problem can be traced. Since that car is under mfr warranty I'm sure they will throw the book at it and I might learn something from that, but I was wondering if any of you folks had heard of this weird problem or had to deal with it yourselves.
Thanks, and I'll check back sooner than I did last time ;-)
Since I was driving thru the Mojave Desert, I had a few gallons of water and other 'emergency necessities' should the need arise.
Of course, that only weighed 10 lbs - the other 60 lbs was my girlfriends luggage (I kept my toothbrush and change of underwear in the glove box)
As for that RFV TSB BIGUNIT67 mentions, my only comments are that after 23,000 miles on my two year old GS, only the EGR valve (replaced a few days after buying the car) and exterior thermometer (replaced twice and soon three times) have been troublesome. This car has been 'sweet'.
Word of advice to all: When taking your car in for service, make sure the service tech writes ALL YOUR CONCERNS down on paper including the work that was eventually performed. All this in the event you'll have a recurring problem that may be taken care of AFTER the warranty period and you'll have documentation to back-up your claim.
I had the lovely opportunity to change the battery on my 98 GS last weekend. I had to twist it sideways and up and still had to pry it out. Anyway the dealer quoted me $120 to change the battery. I got the Sams club special at $60 so I guess I can go buy a few cases of beer with the savings. Just in time for football season too. Go Dolphins!
Most battery changes on GM vehicles are a pain. There is a long black metal crossmember bar that needs to be removed, and in the battery tray there is a black rubber stopper sort of thing that hold the battery from bouncing around. Don't forget about the bug juice tank. I had to do this on my old 92 Lumina and it is was a hassle. Mwdream, I feel your pain man. I looked under the hood of my 2001 GS and looks like the same mess accept just 9 years newer.
There are a few differences between the $120 and the $60 battery. Besides a fee to install the AC Delco battery is more expensive to begin with and can only be purchased from a dealer. Further, Ac Delcos are maintenance free, all others say so but have caps that can be pried off to the check level. Plus, the cold cranking amps CCA on the Delco I will bet are higher then the Sams you replaced it with. I went out of my way to replace a battery with a delco in my toyota (cost my $86 at a dealer and I installed it) whereas I could have gotten a similar (about 100 CCAs less though) at an Advanced Auto or Auto Zone for $56 . The previous Delco lasted 5 years, (still strong but I just wanted the piece of mind) I tried to get one for my Ford but they do not make one. I believe that Delco batteries are simply better made, last longer, have more power as in CCA and are truly maintenance free.
Just my opinion and to me worth the extra $30
In the Ford I did go with another Advance Auto battery for $56 but the old one was only just under 4 years and I did not trust it for my daughter away at school.
I to just replaced my battery. The battery cost me $60 at Wallmart and has 950 cold cranking amps which is fairly high. I replaced it myself. You have remove the strut tower brace (3 bolts). Then the windsheild resevior (one nut and two clips and two wires). Then I moved the fuse box aside (one nut and it slides up out of a slot). Then remove the clip down on the battery tray (one bolt). Then you still have to lift it out at an angle. It took me about a half hour.
My '99 Regal GS gets only about 17 mpg in combined city/highway driving. Goes to about 22 mpg on highway alone. I admit I'm heavy on the pedal but this seems awfully low to me compared to what others are reporting on this site. The car has 70,000 miles on it and has never had a "tuneup". Any advice on what specifically might need to be done in the tuneup that might provide me with better gas mileage?
I have a 98 LS and a 01 LS, and both of them get about 32 MPG highway with the cruise set at 70. I realize your GS is much more powerful, but I will share a couple of ideas. I run the tires at 35 psi. I understand that the LS has the softer suspension, but it may be okay with the GS also. The other thing I have done is switch the engine oil over to Mobil 1 synthetic oil, and the automatic transmission over to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Good luck.
You should be able to find ACDelco batteries at retail stores too. I agree that they seem to be better quality batteries, but I've always been able to buy mine at Trak Auto and they aren't much more expensive than competitors products. I suspect a GM dealer might not have the best prices for it. Actually, it's too bad you mentioned Advanced Auto Parts as not having them because they are buying up Trak Auto. I just hope they'll still carry the same stuff, or that I can find a new place that does.
Suggestion: If you're in the market for a Buick Regal GS, look for a 2002 or 2001 with a few miles on it. I got a 2002 Buick GS (no sunroof, no heated seats, no chrome rims - these are the only options (other than the Joseph Abboud package, which I don't like anyway) with 4400 miles on it. I paid $18,410, the original sticker was $27,500 and some change.
Here's what else I test drove: 99 Oldsmobile Aurora ($14.5K), 2001 loaded Grand Prix GTP ($19.5K), 03 Tiburon ($19.5K, don't ask, I tried to recapture my youth but my 6'3" frame said 'no way'). The Buick was hands-down the best bang for the buck. I really wanted the Aurora but there was no warranty left, can't take the risk. Beautiful car though.
Anyway, Fans of GM will note that the Pontiac Grand Prix has the same platform as the Regal. The ONLY advantage the Prix has over the Buick is styling. I test drove 3 GTPs, all less with 33K miles and there were more rattles and hums and cheap pieces of misaligned plastic than you could count. I REALLY wanted a Prix, but they're just not put together well. Plus their resale value is higher (more demand) so a nice used GTP will set you back more than a same mileage Buick Regal GS
The interior materials (and, I suspect, exterior) of the Regal rivals, in my opinion, Japanese cars. My friend is paying $450/mo for a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE loaded and let me tell you, other than the sunroof and the heated seats, I really don't like his car over mine. The Buick has a more comfortable ride and feels richer to me, and I believe it is faster (we both have automatic transmissions), but to each his own. Traction control and ABS work great. Acceleration is neck-snapping, observers/passengers will be surprised w/ the car's power. You can end up doing 80 without even realizing it.
The only quibbles I have with the car are minor. The standard wheels (not the chrome ones) look a little less masculine than the rest of the car. The rear view mirror could be larger. The fold-away driver's side mirror doesn't fold in all the way. Climate control is a little unintuitive. The multi-control stalk (which operates blinker, hi-beams, cruise control, wipers, etc.) can be a little confusing. Car is a little thirsty, expect 18mpg around town and 27 or so on highway. Driver's side window, when rolled partially down, rattles over bumps (this is the ONLY rattle I can detect in the car). Dark grey lea. interior without the sunroof can appear a little 'stark'. Factory tires (Eagle LS) suck, my next set will be Yokohamas, ranked #3 in consumer reports and $52/ea! (I forget the model name, sorry folks).
Overall, I do love the car, esp. for the price I paid. Good luck!
My wife bought a '00 GSE, so I was sold on the Regal before I recently bought a used '98 GS. I also noticed that the GTP was 1-2K higher than my GS. I agree hands down that the GS has more bang for the buck than any other family sedan. Funny thing is Impala and Monte Carlo owners are bitching because the 2004 SS models are "only getting the L-67 (3800SC) motor", instead of a V-8. They should be grateful GM is finally going to be offering this great engine to Chevy lovers.
The dealer replaced this sensor under my extended warranty. It was sticking around 63 degrees on 80+ degree days. Some posts have said that dealers want $120. for this. Here's what I found out; it is a small black plastic piece mounted in the space between the radiator and the grill toward the passenger side, simply unplugs. Looks kind of like the cap for a BIC pen with blue wires attached. GM part number 10248414. Retail price $8.05. Hope this helps someone.
Thats an incredible price for a 2002 Buick Regal GS I couldn't find any Regals in my area which is Michigan for anywhere near that price for a 2002 most of the 2002's were 20,000 or above. I do have to disagree with you on the cheap peices and misaligned parts they are not only on the Pontiac's they're also on the Buick's, I have a 2002 Buick Century in which the dash area and arm rest/storage box are all plastic cheap pieces and the dash/steering area has been rattling and creaking every since I bought it, also i've tried to have the dealership fix it several times and of course I get the usual can not duplicate.
I have looked in Chiltons manual and found out the entire backseat has to be removed, the side panels removed and then the top of rear shelf... all this to change a couple 6 x 9 speakers???
You have got to be kidding me GM, what the hell were you thinking?
Another 10 minute job, that will take over an hour. I have never heard of dismantling half your interior to change speakers. I can't believe this crap.
Masonmi: Sorry to hear you're having rattles with your Century. Assuming it's still under warranty, you should bug the hell out of your dealer/mechanic to get it right, you shouldn't have to put up with that. I am unfamiliar with the Century's interior materials, however the Regal GS has, I think, only a few pieces that are borderline-cheap (Glove box door, middle compartment door, ashtray door). The grade of plastic in the Grand Prix was FAR lower, in my opinion. No doubt GM wanted to build that car very cheaply to get the max. profit out of it. Other than Oldsmobile and Buick, I would be hesitant to buy any GM product until the interior build quality proves significantly. I think they're on the way with the Chevrolet Impala (auto critics have noticed this too).
I read earlier someone got even better sound of out of their monsoon sound system by replacing the front door speakers in their Regal with mid-priced pioneers. Has anyone else done such a speaker replacement, and if so how? (I won't bother if the dismantling of the doors becomes too troublesome). Also, does anyone have the technical stats for the system (e.g. which speakers in the Factory Regal GS are 3-way, 2-way, etc.)?
I don't know if you guys have heard of it, but 3M (and at least one other company) manufactures a clear UV-protected virtually invisible plastic that you can cut to size (or, alternatively, buy from a reseller as a pre-cut kit). You (or the dealer) install it much like window tint but it goes on the body panels/sections of your car that get the most exposure to wear and tear (e.g. the front-most part of the hood, the air dam/spoiler, the door handles, the rear view mirrors, etc.) Protects the car from sunlight, pebbles, general wear and tear, etc.. ..Has anyone installed this and if so, how laborous was the process?
window tint, its recommended that you have a window tinter install it for you. May save you both time and money. Unless you're a DIY type of person and don't mind trial and error.
If i had the monsoon, i might be happy, buy my 98 does not. I am changing both front and rear and adding an amplifier. It was my hope to do the rear myself and save some money, but leave it to GM to make me dismantle half my interior for what should be 5 minutes a speaker.
My Century is still under warranty it has just over 20,000 miles on it, i've been to 3 different Buick dealerships and neither of them can duplicate dash rattles or steering column rattles. I did drive a few Regals when I was test driving to buy and the Regals dash is the exact same as the Century they really didn't change much between the Century and the Regal except for engine sizes and some minor outside appearances.
Comments
What about engines leaking oil, or transmission problems? Any kind of serious problems with the Buick Regal?
Canc...Mine had the usual problems, window motors(3), recurring oil pan leak, a/c display, but all were fixed under warranty. Go over to the NHTSA website and check out the TSBs for the Regal. The only really bad one I am hearing about now is the coolant gelling up if not changed properly or an air leak develops. GM used to say good for 150,000 miles, now it is 150,000 miles or 5 years.
GM and the others are selling a car (Regal) that us poor folks can afford. Comparing a Regal to an expensive import is not a realistic comparison. Just for S's & G's I looked at that expensive foreign crap... was not impressed at $40K, $50K. I buy a car to drive, not to impress some anal retentive snob.
Today my 2000 Regal LS (43,000 miles) started losing the power steering at low speeds (under 10 MPH). Anything faster than that and the steering is normal. Can anyone give me some advice as to what could be wrong. I'm going to take it to the dealer tomorrow.
Thanks
As far as the oil change question posed earlier....I will go with every 3,000 miles. Have not looked into synthetic oil, but the Valvoline Oil change place that I use offers that service.
Private party sale value was about $17,340. The car has 6,000 miles.
Must be the rebates that were offered earlier this year are already figured into the trade-in value.
Now I remember why my last car purchase was a Honda.
However, how many people can get that deal ?
I also got a $2,500 rebate & a $750 Buick loyalty rebate. Again, not everybody qualifies for the $750 loyalty rebate.
I also used $500 GM dollars. Again, not everybody has GM dollars.
Are you suggesting that the FMV of the car is discounted for any possible rebate, whether the average person would qualify for it or not ?
If that is the case, it is still a steep drop even if you factor in the rebates.
Generally GM vehicles don't usually sell for much more than invoice, there isn't enough demand for them otherwise.
Dealers are usually pricing mid-size GM car at about $2,000 below sticker. And yes, most people can get the deal. Just print the car description from Edmunds' site, including the TMV price, and bring it to dealership. Most car salesmen would see that you are prepared , and would offer reasonable price from the very beginning.
Currently GM offers $3,000 rebate to all buyers of 2002 Regal LS and GS. No Buick loyalty requires.
In other words, practically everybody can buy a new car for about $19,000. How much would he pay for slightly used car? $17,350 looks generous.
And yes, the trade-in price is even lower. Dealer's margin includes sale expenses, profit, etc.
Any idea what the TSB # was ?
Drove from Los Angeles to Las Vegas...2000 Regal GS w/ 23,000 miles...1 driver, 1 passenger and 70lb in the trunk...286 miles one way...drove 75-80 MPH with a/c on..got 27.7 MPG...top speed at 105 MPH...OEM GoodYear LS tires were quiet (why all the fuss that these tires are noisy?).
Driving back to Los Angeles, the same as above applies except average speed was 65 MPH and achieved 28.4 MPG.
God, who buys a car for MSRP? Did you really pay 24K? I NEVER compare trade in to MSRP, I compare to actual purchase price.
If the car was a Honda or a Toyota, you would likely be comparing MSRP to trade-in value since those cars actually hold a decent trade-in value.
My Regal GS is a 1998, and I found that GM has a 42 pg TSB relating to this problem in their cars (all lines). At the dealership I bought my car from they have a customer with a 2002 Regal GS that has developed this problem at about 20,000 miles (mine is in the mid 40's). They have put 6 different combinations of tires/rims on the car and it isn't correcting the problem. That was similar to my situation. I had a damaged tire (it got damaged when a guy fixed a flat on it) and I had vibration from just that, or so I thought. When I got new tires I still had vibration and switching between brands of tires isn't helping matters any. By all visual cues, there aren't any problems with the rims or anything amiss under the front end, but drive the car and "whoomp, there it is...".
I've done some research and found that there are RFV machines out there and they're essentially next generation tire balancers, for lack of a better term. But, this vibration I'm talking about goes beyond just a tire/rim problem, apparently. Some GM dealers are calling this type of problem RFV, but the guy I dealt with last week admitted they don't know what is causing the problem.
Another GM dealership in my area has an RFV machine and the 2002 GS was driven there yesterday for testing to see if the problem can be traced. Since that car is under mfr warranty I'm sure they will throw the book at it and I might learn something from that, but I was wondering if any of you folks had heard of this weird problem or had to deal with it yourselves.
Thanks, and I'll check back sooner than I did last time ;-)
Of course, that only weighed 10 lbs - the other 60 lbs was my girlfriends luggage (I kept my toothbrush and change of underwear in the glove box)
As for that RFV TSB BIGUNIT67 mentions, my only comments are that after 23,000 miles on my two year old GS, only the EGR valve (replaced a few days after buying the car) and exterior thermometer (replaced twice and soon three times) have been troublesome. This car has been 'sweet'.
Word of advice to all: When taking your car in for service, make sure the service tech writes ALL YOUR CONCERNS down on paper including the work that was eventually performed. All this in the event you'll have a recurring problem that may be taken care of AFTER the warranty period and you'll have documentation to back-up your claim.
Just my opinion and to me worth the extra $30
In the Ford I did go with another Advance Auto battery for $56 but the old one was only just under 4 years and I did not trust it for my daughter away at school.
Here's what else I test drove: 99 Oldsmobile Aurora ($14.5K), 2001 loaded Grand Prix GTP ($19.5K), 03 Tiburon ($19.5K, don't ask, I tried to recapture my youth but my 6'3" frame said 'no way'). The Buick was hands-down the best bang for the buck. I really wanted the Aurora but there was no warranty left, can't take the risk. Beautiful car though.
Anyway, Fans of GM will note that the Pontiac Grand Prix has the same platform as the Regal. The ONLY advantage the Prix has over the Buick is styling. I test drove 3 GTPs, all less with 33K miles and there were more rattles and hums and cheap pieces of misaligned plastic than you could count. I REALLY wanted a Prix, but they're just not put together well. Plus their resale value is higher (more demand) so a nice used GTP will set you back more than a same mileage Buick Regal GS
The interior materials (and, I suspect, exterior) of the Regal rivals, in my opinion, Japanese cars. My friend is paying $450/mo for a 2001 Nissan Maxima SE loaded and let me tell you, other than the sunroof and the heated seats, I really don't like his car over mine. The Buick has a more comfortable ride and feels richer to me, and I believe it is faster (we both have automatic transmissions), but to each his own. Traction control and ABS work great. Acceleration is neck-snapping, observers/passengers will be surprised w/ the car's power. You can end up doing 80 without even realizing it.
The only quibbles I have with the car are minor. The standard wheels (not the chrome ones) look a little less masculine than the rest of the car. The rear view mirror could be larger. The fold-away driver's side mirror doesn't fold in all the way. Climate control is a little unintuitive. The multi-control stalk (which operates blinker, hi-beams, cruise control, wipers, etc.) can be a little confusing. Car is a little thirsty, expect 18mpg around town and 27 or so on highway. Driver's side window, when rolled partially down, rattles over bumps (this is the ONLY rattle I can detect in the car). Dark grey lea. interior without the sunroof can appear a little 'stark'. Factory tires (Eagle LS) suck, my next set will be Yokohamas, ranked #3 in consumer reports and $52/ea! (I forget the model name, sorry folks).
Overall, I do love the car, esp. for the price I paid. Good luck!
I do have to disagree with you on the cheap peices and misaligned parts they are not only on the Pontiac's they're also on the Buick's, I have a 2002 Buick Century in which the dash area and arm rest/storage box are all plastic cheap pieces and the dash/steering area has been rattling and creaking every since I bought it, also i've tried to have the dealership fix it several times and of course I get the usual can not duplicate.
You have got to be kidding me GM, what the hell were you thinking?
Another 10 minute job, that will take over an hour. I have never heard of dismantling half your interior to change speakers. I can't believe this crap.
I did drive a few Regals when I was test driving to buy and the Regals dash is the exact same as the Century they really didn't change much between the Century and the Regal except for engine sizes and some minor outside appearances.