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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    There is a service bulletin out on this. Seems that some cars were built with less that enough grease in part of the steering gear. There is a special kit that has everything needed to perform the fix. Let the dealer know and they should be able to have the kit ready. Not sure of the bulletin number, will keep looking for data.
  • realyecatrealyecat Posts: 29
    I love Aurora's styling very much, and the price I got is about $6500 off MSRP, hard to pass by.
    Quality concern weighs though.

    On the other hand, I have been very excited for the G35 for QUITE some time and I expect the resale value to be very good.

    Maxima GLE, much improved, leather, xenon lights and bose, etc. all standard, AND, WIFE find it ridiculous to spend more than $24000 for a car primarily for commute!

    Now you know why I have a headache.

    Thank you. Keep on the good job of giving me more reasons!
  • cehsr8033cehsr8033 Posts: 11
    Hey, thanks for the info, I will give the dealer a call on monday and have him look up before I take the car to him. I appreciate you communication.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 854
    I can feel your dilemma. I am also looking for a new car. My list includes the Olds Aurora, Toyota Camry, Infiniti, Lexus ES300, and the Acura TL. At the top of my priority list for a new car is dependability. This is why the Aurora is a definite question-mark. I qualify for the employee discount and the warranty on it is good but I still do not want to spend my time back and forth to the dealership shop. I do like the looks of the Aurora and it certainly qualifys as an entry level luxury vehicle.
    I am not familiar with the Infiniti G35 but will need to research it. I prefer FWD. It seems like everyone is excited about the G35.
    The new Accord comes out in the fall and a new TL comes out for 2004. There are a lot of choices. I am in no hurry so I can afford to wait a while. For you I think the Infiniti I35 is better than the Maxima. It gives you a better warranty and much better dealer service, but they run about 29K. There are a few I 30s out there but you had better hurry on them. They are basically the same as the I35 but with the 3.0 engine instead of 3.5.
    You said you are getting $6500 off of the MSRP on the Aurora but what is the MSRP?
    I hope some of this helps but there just is no easy solution. Try out the TL too. There are a few 2002s left because the 2003s are out now. The 2002(non-type S) should run about 27,500.
  • realyecatrealyecat Posts: 29
    is close to $31500.
    BTW, I dislike any Honda products. They look bad and lack personality IMO.
    I can get the I35 w/sunroof for $27700 but it is still $4200 more than the offer I got for the Maxima GLE, which is basically the same car.

    G35 is a great great car, but it's small in size and seriously lack usable trunk space.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 854
    Boy, that is a great price on the I35. I show that to be less than invoice. For that price, even though the Maxima is $4200 less, I would get the I35. As I stated before, you get the better warranty and better dealership experience. Good luck on your decision. What is wrong with Honda vehicles other than style?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have always wondered what a guy would feel like if his car cut off and stranded him underneath the Hudson River, at the bottom of the Holland Tunnel.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Today I found out!
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    I was just being sarcastic on the Maxima and the mudflaps, actually the Maxima is a nice car. I had one a number of years ago and was quite happy with it. The one thing I would consider is the Aurora has a timing chain vs. a belt on the Maxima which needs changed (for a lot of $ every 60,000miles). I don't know if the extra 2 years of warranty on the Aurora is worth the $2000 price diff. for what you'll be using the car for. The Aurora is a larger car with many more features. I got mine after a lot of research and having fallen in love with the 95-99 body style. I don't think you can go wrong either way, except when it comes time to get a new car, I doubt if a 3.5 Aurora will have much resell value in 5 years.
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    Henri - Been down in that tunnel and can't imagine being stuck in there. Think its time you up-grade to a 98 or 99.
  • realyecatrealyecat Posts: 29
    What happened?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I am told that my fuel pump went out. According to the delaership and my mechanic, the pump can go at anytime after 70K (or not malfunction at all).

    When they do go out, they go out without ANY WARNING.

    so sayeth,

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Every time I told somebody about getting stranded, the first words out of everyone's mouth was:

    "Not the Aurora"

    If you think getting stuck in the Holland Tunnel was annoying, try hearing "not the Aurora" a few times.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I had a fuel pump go out on me on another car with a full tank of gas. I had a habit of driving the car on 'E' and that overheated the pump because no gas to keep it cool. I now make sure I get gas as soon it hits a quarter tank. The pump was inside gas tank and yes there is no sign. You just driving along and wham it stops on you. I hope your warranty company paid for it.
  • Believe it or not, there are still a few new 2001 Auroras around.Found one I may be interested if the price is right,but my question is,how much should I expect a dealer to discount a nearly 2 year old new car?This one lists for 33k.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    I would look up the blue book value for a 2001 Aurora and see what its worth with zero miles. The dealer should be happy to sell it at invoice and really should expect to lose money on it. There is $2000 dealer's cash on it from GM as an incentive. So, they can sell it for $2000 below invoice (+3% of MRSP, holdback). So perhaps $3000 below invoice is reasonable. Lets look at Edmunds used value: looks like 2001 aurora's run below $25000. With zero miles, $26000 maybe.
  • s2261s2261 Posts: 14
    Time for tires on the '97. What are the best choices out there? I currently have Michelin Energy. They are OK. I have the Autobahn pkg, but never drive over 90. The car is driven in the winter. I don't drive very hard either. Would it be OK to go for H rated tires, or do I need to stick with the V rated?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I would recommend that you stay with the VR rated tires. I upgraded the speed rating on my tires and replaced the Michlens with Toyo "Z" rated tires on my 95. And the ride (when not parked in the middle of the HOlland Tunnel) is EXCELLENT. Someone once said if you want to make a car ride better, put on better tires. I have done this with three of my cars and it has worked. I think the opposite would also be true of going to a lower speed rating. My understanding is that the speed rating has an effect on the ride at any speed. In other words a Z rated tire will ride better than an H rated tire at any given speed. Remember, the non autobahm Auroras are governed at 115 mph. Under that logic you don't need the VR tires on the car unless you are driving the HWY at over 115mph. Therefore, I don't think speed alone was the reason GM put the VR rated tires on the car.

    However, the BMW's come with Continential H rated tires. I spoke with one tire shop and he told me that he has had several BMW folks switch to VR Michilens because they wanted to "tune: the suspension for a better ride and have been very happy with their choice.

    In the end, the choice is up to you. BUT I CAUSTION you on this one point. Do not put too much weight on an opinion that says "my ride is so much better with the H rated tires." Remember, this person just moved from tires with say 50,000 miles to ones with 0 miles. Of course the ride is better.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    I have a 1992 Olds Toronado which used to have BFGoodrich Touring T/As with an H speed rating. I ordered brand new Eagle GAs that were Z-rated for it. Well, when I picked up my car, the tires were S-rated. The tire place refunded me the difference. In hindsight, I should have insistend that they got it right. I hated the ride change. Car was sloppy and didn't ride right. Fortuantely, I'm almost done with those tires now and can't wait to replace them with some V or Z rated tires.

    I have Michelin Pilot MXMs on my 98 Aurora. It came with 3 S-rated Goodyear Integrities and one H-rated Bridgestone Turanza Revo. I took those off right away and noticed a great improvement in handling. I'm sure some of it was brand new tires, but the Z rated pilots are much much better.

    Be a little careful about driving conditions, though. Z rated tires are almost never M&S rated and don't work in mud or snow. I took my Aurora out to Colorado to go skiing right after I got the new Michelins put on it and I could barely make it up hills. I have a truck I drive when the weather is snowy, but if I get stuck out with my Aurora and those performance tires on it, I have to push it up my driveway which has about a 2 degree incline. The pilots are great in the rain, though.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Keep in mind that the speed rating of a tire only indicates it's ability to resist heat. It really isn't an indicator of it's performance. However, higher speed rated tires do tend to perform better. This is also because they tend to cost more. If you don't plan on having a winter set of tires (unless you live somewhere without snow) I would suggest all-season tires. I would suggest ensuring they are H (~135mph) or above as this will give you tire to match your top speed, even if you never plan on reaching it (you never know). I believe the Autobahn package was limited to 135 mph. The V rated tires probably weren't required, but maybe the tires the engineers liked just happened to be V rated.

    I'm pretty happy with my Michelin Energy MXV4 Pluses (H rated) as an all-around tire. They also come with a V rating.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Funny this topic should come up today. I just got back from the tire shop where I got a new pair of shoes for my baby.

    My '98 has the Autobahn package, and thus had the Michelin MXV's. Other than a jaunt up to 115 in the middle of nowhere, Wisconsin, I don't get much faster than 80-85.

    I was never happy with the performance of the Michelin's - lack of traction in rain and snow (I didn't even drive the car during the 2 snowstorms we had this winter - otherwise spinning wheels and traction control on constantly), and lots of tire squeal, even at 32 psi making a turn at 15 mph. Bear in mind, the car had 27k miles on it when I got it a year ago - and it had sat on the lot for almost a year. I've "heard" that the MXV's don't last very long, and Michelin offers no treadlife warranty.Another knock, for me, was the price... $149/tire (not including mounting/balancing/stem/disposal fees). Ouch.

    I ended up putting Dunlop SP Sport A2's on the Aurora. I did a lot of research on, and these got some pretty high ratings, especially for wet/snow traction. Long treadlife, too. I paid $111 per tire, inclusive all mounting/disposal/etc. fees.

    It's way too early for me to tell if I like the tires or not. As Henry said, these are new, the Michelin's had 43k on them when I gave up on them. It seems that general ride is better (my mother-in-law's '98, non-Autobahn, on the Goodyear Eagle GA's seems to have more of the "floaty" ride), but that bumps (train-tracks, etc.) are harsher. I'll have to take her out on the freeway and see if the shimmy/vibration at 70-75 (which others have reported here) is still there - if so, it's 4-wheel forced balance time.

    A couple more things about the Dunlops... my tire dealer said that most people who get them, get them again when it's time to re-up. They are used as the OEM tires on many of the later-model BMW's.

    On another note, I have experience with different speed ratings on tires on the same/similar car (my wife and I both had '96 Lumina's - I got BF Goodrich Touring TA's, S-rated, and my wife T-rated). The T-rated tires on my wife's car definitely seemed to ride and handle better than on mine.

    I also thought about the Michelin Pilot's (which a lot of the Intrigue guys seem to like, and they're much more economical than the MXV's). I guess time will tell how well my decision goes...

  • seegirtseegirt Posts: 9
    For your tires, try and the Yokohoma Avid V-4's. I have had them on my 96 for 2 years and they are without a doubt better then the original Michelins. I too, have the Autobahn package. I paid approx. $365 for 4 tires delivered to a local service/ installer including shipping, installation, disposal balancing.

    Now for the tired part. I'm selling the 96 with approx.86K on it. It's been a pretty good car, in fact, a GREAT ride. It's in excellent condition but I'm looking at a good opportunity for another used set of wheels. I'm hoping to get around $8200 for it in SE Pennsylvania/Delaware area.

    It's been real. Email me if you are interested in buying it. It's in perfect shape and none of the major issues that some of the folks have had.
  • s2261s2261 Posts: 14
    I finished up the shocks/struts job tonight. Final total $319.65. Plus 3-4 hours in the garage without anyone bothering me, working on the car, tunes cranked, cold beer. Ahhhhh. The rear upper mounts(MOOG) are slightly wider than stock. About 1\16 in. I drilled the holes a bit larger to make them fit. Overall a much easier job than I thought it would be. It was needed. The ride is much more responsive now. Next week I'll have new tires put on. I'm leaning towards the Dunlop sport A2. I can get them for 108.00/each (mount/balance/disposal included). Thanks to all for the tire info.
  • cehsr8033cehsr8033 Posts: 11
    My 2001 came with three OEM Michelins and one Perelli on the rear (?). Don't have a clue why the odd duck was on the car but I requested that they change it out and replace with Michelin tire and the noise level decrease is quite noticeable.
    I thought there was a rumble from the Perelli and there was--the Michelins seem much quieter. Wind direction also seems to have a real impact with my Aurora, it is very quiet with no or tail wind and a bit too noisy with a head wind. That may be typical of all cars but I would like a bit more isolation. Has anyone experienced the transmission failing to kick down when resuming speed with the cruise control? Sometimes mine tends to jump up to about 4000rpm and stay there until I rehit the brake and reset the cruise--doesn't happen all the time but occassionally it seems to stick at the higher RPM level. Thanks.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    hammen2: Which Michelin Pilots were you looking at that were cheaper than the MXV4s?!?! The ones I got were $250 each at Sears. I talked them down to $189 (the tirerack price). I really like the tires, but they are a little noisy on concrete. Silent on asphalt.

    On speed ratings. Another part of a higher speed rated tire is usually a stiffer side wall. This improves handling and makes for a stiffer ride.

    I agree with the statement about the Eagle GAs. Every Aurora I've driven without the autobahn (Eagle GA equipped) has reminded me more of a Lincoln Town car. Every autobahn aurora I've driven (with V rated Michelins) has reminded me more of my 92 Trofeo (great handling) with a lot more zip cuz of the V-8.

    Heck, if they would have made this V-8 and put it into those toronados, the Toronado would still be around =)
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    I unplugged battery for 12 hours and it did not reset the abs and traction lights off the dash. Should I unplug the fuses to clear this? I thought the battery power would do this but all it did was knock out the clock and date. Thanks for any suggestions.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    Try taking off the battery terminals and holding the brake pedal down to drain the remaining power out by disfusing it through the brake light. Holld it down for a while. I dont think you have to have the battery off for a certain amount of time, I think just take it off and push the break pedal down for 2 or 3 mintues. Im sure someoneelse knows...
  • ewtewt Posts: 127
    The return line on my power steering has started to leak. Is the specified GM power steering fluid with a part number just ATF, or is it a special kind of fluid?

  • I have a 1995 (Autobahn) that currently has 98,557 miles. I replaced the Michelin Energy with the Dunlop SP Sport A2. I have 13,134 miles on the tires and have driven in every weather condition. The tires cost me $90 each from TireRack. These are the best tires I have had on this car. I tend to drive aggressively and wanted a performance oriented tire, but I also wanted a touring tire. The steering effort has never been better, wear is fine, but they really shine(?) in wet weather conditions. With these tires Traction Control rarely illuminates. The tires look good on the car.
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