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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • Yeah, mine was an 04 Access cab. I just went through the regular arbitration. It took about 45 days, but I finally got a new truck. I had a witness statement, all of Toyota Service Bulletins or TSB's with me showing that it is a bigger problem than Toyota is admitting. I got an 05, which is good I suppose, but I liked the 04 better.
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    The following is the final message I will be sending to Toyota Motor Co. I replaced the dealers name with DEALER and X'ed out names:
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
    I’m writing you today to tell you about my 2005 Tacoma “ownership experience”.

    I purchased an impulse red 2005 Tacoma 4x4 double cab with SR5 package in February from DEALER Toyota, X Haven, PA. The first day I drove it, I noticed a paint chip on the gas cap cover. I pointed this out to Donny X, a salesmen at DEALER Toyota. Every day after that, I continued to see more chips in the paint, all over my truck. Most of the chips are concentrated at the bottoms of the doors and box where the “chip guard” is. The only panel on my truck without chips is the tailgate. All panels have chips in the paint - the hood, up the doors, “A” pillars, box, even the roof. I continued to call the dealership regarding this situation. The DEALER Toyota Service Manager at the time, Ted X, requested that I stop by the dealership to show him the paint chipping. However, when I got there I found out that he left early, so I asked Phil Y (salesman who sold me the truck) to take a look and he said it was something that should be taken care of. The next week Ted X asked me to take my truck to X Body and Fender (the shop that performs all body work on DEALER Toyota’s vehicles), for an estimate to repair the paint chips. Coincidentally, there was another ‘05 Tacoma (blue in color) there for an estimate for the same chipping problem. The paint shop determined that there was a manufacturing issue in either the paint, clear coat or application. Using the information in the owner’s manual I contacted Toyota (1-800-331-xxxx) to discuss my paint defect and got absolutely no satisfaction. I was referred back to the dealer; Toyota claimed this was no fault of theirs. I opened case number xxxxxxxxxxxx.

    The dealer’s official solution was, “we’ll pay to have it repainted once, if you get chips after that, you’re on your own.” “We’ll sell you running boards at our cost to help protect this from happening again.” At this point I started wondering why I should have to repaint a 2-month old truck. I just wanted my money back. In fact, I stated this to the Toyota representative on the 800 number as well as several people at DEALER Toyota, including the General Manager, Dan AH. Mr. AH was not in the least concerned with my problems, in fact he presented himself in a manner unbecoming the title of General Manager of a car dealership. Ted X wanted the paint shop to strip down the chipped areas to the level of the chip, build it up, roughen the clear coat, paint then spray clear OVER the existing paint with the apparent issues. The paint shop in return, would not guarantee that their work would hold up because they were being asked to paint over what they felt was a flawed factory paint finish.

    Ted asked me to make an appointment to have the truck painted and said he just needed to get a final approval from the District Manager, Brian DB (Toyota corporate). Shortly after this, Ted was let go from the dealership. I was then placed in contact with Phil X, the new Service Manager, who stated that Brian was now only willing to pay for a small fraction of the estimated cost of having the truck painted. The estimate was for approximately $4,300. (You read that right - $4,300 to repair a two-month old vehicle!) The paint shop was told Toyota would only pay $700 toward the repairs! District Manager Brian DB then said he wanted to see the truck prior to committing to pay any of the repair cost. Two months had gone by since I purchased this truck and Phil X informed me that, although Brian wanted to see my truck before authorizing to pay for the repairs, Brian was not planning to be at DEALER until the end of May, which was an additional three weeks. I dropped the truck off at DEALER Toyota on the Saturday before Brian was scheduled to be there to look at the truck. Brian did not show up that Monday. On Tuesday Brian showed up, inspected the truck and requested that I take the truck to another body shop to get another estimate because he felt that the first estimate was too high. Remember – DEALER Toyota recommended X Body & Fender because they are they best in our area and DEALER sends all of their body work to them. Having heard that I needed to get another estimate, I called from work to speak with Brian DB about the situation and he refused to get on the phone and speak with me.

    I believe that Ted X (former Service Manager at DEALER Toyota) was trying to do the right thing regarding my truck’s paint chipping problem and that may be one of the reasons was let go. The personnel at the dealership who knew of my problems but did nothing to help should be ashamed of themselves. Brian DB, the District Manager, who gave me the run-around is most negligent. A person in his position needs to be a decent human being willing to help the customer and DO THE RIGHT THING. Brian DB and Toyota should be held accountable for selling problem vehicles, then turning their back on the customer. When I purchased this truck (for approximately $27,000), I thought I was getting a quality vehicle, from a respectable dealership, built by a manufacturer who’s name I could trust and one that would stand behind their product. I was wrong on all counts. All I got was a source of daily stress and aggravation over a $27,000 problem with no help from Toyota or the dealership.

    This was my second Toyota truck. I do not “off-road” with this vehicle (and, after reading all of the internet forums and seeing how many other new Toyota Tacoma owners are also experiencing the same excessive paint chipping that I did, I feel sorry for anyone who “off-roads” with their vehicle). I drive on paved roads to and from work; mostly on the Interstate. I owned my first Toyota truck for just about 11 years. It had over 200,000 miles on it and the paint, after 11 years, was not as chipped as my brand new Tacoma was. This is truly sad. After all, I was so impressed with my prior truck, I didn’t even think twice about owning another Toyota truck.

    I want you to know that my family will never own another Toyota product. In addition, I have been sharing my true “Toyota ownership experience” of paint chipping problems and the disgraceful way Toyota did nothing to rectify the situation, with anyone who will listen - friends, family, co-workers, internet forums, etc.

    I am pleased to inform you that I no longer own my Toyota Tacoma. (Sorry, no one will be receiving service income from me, either). My family and I are enjoying the superior ride, comfort, safety, quality, features and trouble-free experience of our 2006 HONDA Ridgeline. The publications (notably Car & Driver and Consumer Reports) that rated Ridgeline and Tacoma head to head were correct in choosing Ridgeline as the better pickup. This vehicle raises the bar and adds a whole new class to the pickup truck!
  • toytrucktoytruck Posts: 67
    Got the results from my arbitration hearing on the paint chipping. Denied for lack of "credible" evidence. That included the independent paint experts report saying it was a manufacturer's defect.

    http://www.geocities.com/toytruck86/paintchip.html
  • I have a 05' Toyota 2.7, 4x2., 5 speed.

    My Question is the cold Idle is 2100rpm.
    And take awhile to come down. Is it hurting the clutch to start out at this rpm. It usually takes 12-1600rpm to start out. This little engine doesn't have the power to start out on a
    hill. so It take a few more rpms to get it up the hill maybe? 1800. Will this hurt any thing?
  • qamanqaman Posts: 2
    My 04 Tacoma made a squeak type noise when I turned into a driveway. The noise (which was also in the left front on my truck) could be duplicated by opening the passenger door and having someone move the truck up and down. The problem turned out to be in the area where the four nuts that hold the front bumper on. The painted surfaces between the square frame and the bumper caused the squeaking noise. I put a light coat of grease on the surfaces and the noise went away. I had to remove many small bolts underneath the bumper to get access to the four nuts and the whole job took less than an hour. Good luck!
  • pasvortopasvorto Posts: 8
    Yesterday I noticed a squeeling sound from the engine compartment. I took it to my local dealer this morning. As I thought, the it was the power steering unit. They quoted my almost $700(!!!) to replace and flush. I called the local auto parts store. They can get me replacement unit for $200. Question is...is this difficult for a shade tree kind of guy? What about the flushing? How necessary is that? The truck is a 2001 Tacoma with the 4 cylinder. It only has 44,000 miles on it. I will have to say I am very disappointed that the PS unit went out this early. :-(
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    toytruck and others!!!,
    Sorry to hear that the arbitration did not go in your favor. Not surprising though. Something you may wish to pursue; I contacted a popular lemon law lawyers office in PA and they thought I had a super case to win. I didn't want to be tied up looking at my piece of crap Tacoma for the next 6 months or so for the case to come up so as I said in my previous post I launched the turd and purchased a Honda Ridgeline. It appears as though there are several suits which could be an option to file in addition to the lemon law There is a "new model vehicle disclosure act" that this falls under as well. If this route is taken, Toyota has to pay for court costs and your lawyer fees. :lemon: It doesn't cost you a cent win or lose and what ever he wins for you, you get! Something to consider. BEST OF LUCK!
  • tpc2tpc2 Posts: 1
    I have exactly 200 miles on my new d-cab TRD sport package, long bed. When my son and I first got it, he mentioned that it sounds like a go-cart because of the fluttering sound; I too thought that when my salesman sent it out to get it filled up that it was accidently filled with regular. I did test drive a similar truck on Sunday (yesterday) from another dealer here in San Diego. I heard the fluttering, but it was not as loud as mine. When my tank is nearing the empty mark, I will put in premium from Mobil or Chevron and see what happens. It is an annoying sound, and this should not happen with a V-6; it is more bothersome knowing that it is there and Toyota has not investigated this further for the $25,000 + that this truck costs - I'll wirte back to let others know what happened with new fuel and/or to let others know what the service departments say here in San Diego.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    "It is an annoying sound, and this should not happen with a V-6; it is more bothersome knowing that it is there and Toyota has not investigated this further for the $25,000 + that this truck costs"

    I'm not worried about it. The truck has stainless steel headers, NOT cast manifolds. Headers flat out sound different than cast exhaust manifolds. With good ear plugs in place, you can often hear the same fluttering sound on many other header equipped vehicles and motorcycles. You'll need the earplugs because the overall volume of the cycle or header-equipped car will make the fluttering impossible to hear without them. Typically, header-equipped vehicles will not have the silencing provided by the rest of the truck's exhaust system.

    Every gearhead that's been under my hood has remarked at the cool exhaust Toyota put on these trucks. Headers usually "scavenge" the cylinders better. This means they help to draw the exhaust out of the cylinder. Headers can also be better tuned for more balanced back pressure to each cylinder, but are usually more costly to manufacture than cast exhaust manifolds.

    The presence of such an exhaust setup demonstrates that Toyota DID investigate things properly, and even may have spent some extra bucks to do it right. Have you ever heard of a tuner removing a header to install a manifold? ;)

    If you don't like the sound, maybe you can install some Dynamat, or some other sound insulation under the front carpet.
  • macnewfmacnewf Posts: 9
    I have just about had it with Toyota and their 2005 Tacoma. I own a 05 access cab with the offroad package in speedway blue and ever since I first noticed the problem back in march I have had nothing but headaches with this vehicle. It was my first new vehicle and I chose Toyota because of its reputation and dependibility. However since I have first began talking to service managers, customer service, Toyota body shop personal etc I have gotten nothing but a dead end. I have contacted several dealerships about ths problem and one dealership tells me that their is a problem with the truck and that Toyota has told him to tell all his customers to wait 4 to 6 weeks so that Toyota can find a fix for the problem. However I then go to a different dealership and they tell me that they have heard nothing about any problem with the Tacoma and that its just mother nature. Furthermore I talked to a 3rd dealership and they tell me that its a maufacturing defect and that Toyota had the truck re tested and they told him that they would authorize all repairs hands down. So once again I call the Customer service line and they tell me that all they can do is listen to their service managers. As someone stated before in this forum, Toyota is right now handling it on a truck to truck basis. I just wish that I could get a straight answer out of Toyota themselves. This has been my first Toyota purchase and let me assure you as soon as I can get out of this lease I am gone and Toyota has lost this customer and many others for good. I think that we should all somehow get a petition or something like together and send it to Toyota and maybe then as a group we could get some satisfaction.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,553
    I just bought my Tacoma 4X4 V6 Access cab last week. This past Sunday, I was in a Kroger's parking lot looking for a parking space. I wasn't going more than 10 MPH (probably less). Hit the brakes when I found a spot and.......NO BRAKES. I pumped them trying to get some pressure, but the pedal just went to the floor.

    In panic mode, I looked around to where I could find a stationary obstacle, that wasn't a building, person or another car to stop my runaway truck. Finally spied a concerte divider and steered towards it. The front wheels went right over the concrete. One of the back wheels did "catch" the concrete and it stopped with an abrupt jolt.

    Long and short of it, I mangled one of the wheels. The dealership flat bedded it to their service dept and gave me a loaner car.

    This truck has about 100 miles on it. It's been in their shop going on 3-days with no news. They said they're still investigating the situation.

    I told my salesperson I don't have any faith in the truck and want a new one. She said she'd take it up with the dealership's General Manager So far, no response.

    You guys have any ideas?
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • shroudshroud Posts: 78
    I'm dismayed to hear this about the paint chipping problem on Tacomas. I was really starting to think about buying one, but given the paint issue I don't really think I can do that. I dont like the looks of the Honda Ridgeline so I guess I'll have to look into the Nissan Frontier.
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    Just a suggestion. The parking brake uses a cable and will usually stop a vehicle with total hydraulic brake failure. Using the parking brake all the time may help you remember it in an emergency. I know that's easy for me to say after the fact, I'm not trying to break 'em off on you..

    Good luck with getting the problem fixed and it's good to hear no one was injured and the property damage was minimal.

    I've heard of this on many brands of cars, usually related to an ABS failure. Luckily, it dosen't happen very often. A friend of my father's went brakeless through a busy intersection in a brand-new Suburban, rear ending a car waiting to turn left.
  • nbtacomanbtacoma Posts: 15
    I have a 2005 2wd Access Cab Silver Streak Mica - bought from a dealer here in New Brunswick, Canada. No issues with the vehicle so far and very nice to drive compared to my 1996. Only time will tell how it holds up to that one because it was an awesome truck. Anyway, I've seen plenty of Tacos around and haven't noticed any paint chipping (yes, I walked up and looked). I wonder where Canadian Tacos come from (California?) and if this makes a difference in some of the paint issues. Also, the truck is only 3 months old so maybe it is something they worked out during later production.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,553
    wood....thanks. At the time, I didn't even think about the e-brake (although I should have). I just kept pumping the brake pedal hoping to get a response (which never came). I was in panic mode at the time, if I can use that as a defense for not thinking of the e-brake.

    Since the truck is new, I've asked them to replace my vehicle. They haven't said no, but they haven't said yes, either.

    The dealer has had my truck, including today, that makes 3-days with no news one way or the other.
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • etoilebetoileb Posts: 34
    First off: I'm glad you're around to tell the tale. Could have been much worse.

    Secondly, don't give the vehicle back to Toyota, go and get an independent diagnosis before Toyota touch it. Having a vehicle that "fails" in a week with potential catastrophic consequences, is a major problem for Toyota and they will probably wish to manage any liabilities.

    I'm not suggesting that they are going tamper with the evidence, but to avoid a conflict of interest, you should obtain an independent report probably with your insurer's blessing.

    Good luck
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,553
    Thanks.....Toyota already has the truck. That's where it was towed (tow set up and paid for by Toyota).

    I consider it a serious safety issue....whether they can confirm or not. I can see this is going to be a long, drag out process with these guys. Maybe they can duplicate the problem, maybe they can't. Fact is, I experienced it.

    I've got a meeting with the service mgr today. Dealership says the GM isn't in until Friday. But, I'm certainly not going to drive the truck home. It will sit there, even if this becomes a force of wills to get it resolved.
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    So how did you end up getting rid of the tacoma? Did you take a loss or was honda fair on a trade in? Cause I 've had so many issues with mine, I'd like to know how to get rid of it with only a little loss! I think toyota's problem regarding their quality with the new trucks has to do with them being built in the same factory as the Pontiac Vibe. Ya GM Crappy quality!!
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    It'll be interesting to see how many signatures show up.

    In April '05 alone, Toyota sold 13,231 Tacomas and 49,241 YTD 2005, as of April 30.

    http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2005/05/03/057818.html

    While these numbers are down a skootch from '04, the entire auto industry has been down, and Tacomas were in short supply at the beginning of the year.
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    jimmer, I ended up trading in my 3 month old Tacoma at a loss! Believe me, in the end, Toyota did me a favor. Though the Tacoma was a nice truck, this gave me the opportunity to experience the Honda Ridgeline. Ridgeline IS a superior truck in every way. For the poster who said "I don't like the look of the Ridgeline...get a Nissan..." DO YOURSELF A FAVOR! Go look at the Ridgeline and take it for a spin and see and feel the difference!! You won't be sorry.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    the petition post violates the Membership Agreement regarding solicitation, specifically this portion:

    You agree that, except with Edmunds.com's prior consent, you will not (either in your Postings or in your profile) solicit or promote any products or services, self-promote, or implore readers to take actions that are intended to further a personal purpose.

    A noble cause, but not allowed.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Starter engages with ignition turned off, only way to stop it, is to disconnect the battery, I had the starter tested, checked out okay, disconnected wiring from ignition switch, still, engaged, removed starter relay, same thing, disconneted positive wire from alternator, no change. anyone got any ideas. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    When you say "won't disengage," do you mean it won't stop running or the starter gear won't disengage from the ring gear? If you mean the starter gear won't disengage from the ring gear, then I'd bet the little return spring is broken.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,553
    taco....I'm meeting with the Toyota Regional rep tomorrow about my brake failures on my '05 Tacoma SR5 V6 4X4 automatic, TRD option package 4. My guess is, they'll try to fix it one last time. I want another truck as I've totally lost faith in this one. Whether that happens or not, I don't know. As of today, the dealership has had it twice as long as it was in my driveway. I hate to go through the hassel, but I may have to invoke lemon law mediation for a refund. That takes a long time and a lot of work for something I've driven only 3 days over the past two weeks of ownership.

    What differences did you find between the Ridgeline and the Tacoma?

    How much of a loss did you take on the Tacoma? Mine has less than 200 miles on it.
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • Starter won't stop running even with the switch off. I am leaning toward a bad ignition switch. I had it tested, starter is ok. Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    My father in law has a tractor that will do that if the battery is low. A low battery will put more strain on the solenoid. The contact points will heat up and stick together.

    But, if you can put the starter in a bench vise, then hook it directly to a battery, and it doesn't start, then it very well could be the switch. Use a volt meter to check for voltage to the ignition wire at the starter connection. This will be the small wire connected to the solenoid. If you have voltage on that wire with the switch in any position other that start, then you have a defective switch.
  • tacoguytacoguy Posts: 12
    graphicguy,
    If I'm not mistaken, in addition to the 3 shots to fix it portion of the lemon law, there is also some sort of time spent at the shop (not sure of the exact verbiage) clause to the lemon law as well. This could be an option. I'm surprised YOU actually are meeting the Regional rep. The guy who covers PA wouldn't even talk to me on the phone. He was at the dealership while I was speaking to the service manager from work about his decision and he wouldn't even get on the phone. NOW THAT'S CUSTOMER SERVICE FOR YOU!

    Regarding differences between Tacoma and Ridgeline …more spacious interior (front, much more rear, headroom more all-round feel…), nicer and much more clever rear seat-b-gone feature (1 hand, 1 move), much quieter ride, 4-wheel independent suspension (no rear axle) makes for a TON better ride and driving experience (every comparison I’ve seen in mags say Ridgeline is the best riding pickup they’ve ever driven). It is like driving on rails (very responsive), closed box frame with unit-body construction makes entire truck feel, drive and ride extremely well (Tacoma and other trucks have a bed and a cab bolted to a ladder frame and when hitting bumps there is the shudder action of the bed and cab vibrating at a different frequency or phase). The 8 cubic foot lockable (with key or keyless entry) trunk under the bed is OUTSTANDING, dual swing tailgate. It is great to swing the gate like a door and place cargo in the bed, instead of reaching over the gate (be it up or down). Need to drop the gate like all others to load 4x8 sheets of plywood? You also have that option. There are hardly any wheel wells in bed and 4x8 fits between them. 4 wheel disk anti-lock brakes. Much quieter engine and the transmission IS smooth as silk. Dual front air bags, dual side impact airbags and side curtain airbags standard ON ALL MODELS. This truck is so cool even the back window is a power slider, Vehicle stability assist. I can go on, but you get the message. And no, I’m not a Honda salesman. I just love everything about this truck!

    Regarding trade-in, I got a great deal when purchasing the Tacoma (not great enough to have not paid for the paint to be good) so I lost less than 2k.

    I hope this helps!
  • graphicguygraphicguy Edmunds Poster EmeritusPosts: 11,553
    taco....thanks for your insight. I'm in OH. The law states....

    "There has been at least one attempt to repair a nonconformity that results in a condition that is likely to cause death or serious bodily injury if the vehicle is driven, and the nonconformity continues to exist."

    That sounds like a text book example of my situation. That said, you never know how those things will turn out. Plus, it's going to be a big hassle in terms of time and energy. I'm trying to exhaust all othe possibilities before going down the "lemon law" route.

    Since the dealership has indeed driven the truck, they are careful to not admit there's a problem. Matter of fact, the only thing they've done is to take it on a test drive, by themselves, with me, and now, the GM of the dealership supposedly drove it this weekend. I don't know if that qualifies as an attempt to fix it. While the brakes haven't totally failed for them, like they did with me, during the test drives, they did note that the brake pressure is weak and that the pedal does go all the way to the floor. The tech told me that the brake pedal isn't mechanical but is "brake by wire". I've heard of steering by "wire" and throttle by "wire", but never brake by "wire". As such, the tech says there's nothing he can adjust or fix. I'm not too confident he's correct in his assessment on either the "brake by wire" or the that there's nothing that can be done.

    I have no idea whether I'll get to talk to the Regional Rep as the GM said he would talk to him today. The good news is, the regional offices are only about 5-10 miles away from the dealership. So, they're local.

    In either case, I've no faith in this vehicle. I want them to replace it with another Tacoma. While it's clear you love your Ridgeline, I'm looking to the Tacoma to haul stuff. As such, having a ladderbox bolted to a frame is the way I want to go. So, that would be a deal breaker for me since the Ridgeline is a unibody piece. I was very pleased with the quiet/comfort/handling of the Tacoma, although I'm certain the Ridgeline may trump the Tacoma on all counts. I need a work truck, though.

    Again, thanks!
    2018 Acura TLX 3.5 SH AWD A-SPEC
  • lbross23lbross23 Posts: 3
    Thanks for describing your experiences with the Taco. I was very close to pulling the trigger on a DC V6 4x4, but this discussion has changed my mind. For $25K I expect not only a quality vehicle, but also quality customer service. I'm heading to Nissan.
  • I just went through this same sensor problem, I have a 01 Tacoma, The check engine light came on 2 days after my 60K mile maint. My MAF sensor went out due to the airfilter cover had been bent so it gummed up and ruined the sensor. But it still was cutting out so I thought I got bad gas also, then a week later the check engine light came back on, I took it back they forgot that when your MAF sensor goes out it also burns out your fuel sensor and air sensor that comes out the other side of your engine. I guess the MAF sensor tells how much of a mixture of both to feed the engine. They had also told me that those trucks have a lifetime Fuel Filter! After that all was replaced it seems to be running great. Better gas mileage also. good luck.
    KNN filters yes or no?
    Dealers of course say NO!! :confuse:
  • chilid1chilid1 Posts: 2
    Wife drove truck to work then went to come home and check engine light came on truck runs alright drove to advance auto they read the OBD2 code and got an p1135. Now I have spent the last 3 hours looking for and cannot find it???. It's an 02 Taco. Help!!!
  • aktoyaktoy Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me what wire to spice into for installing an after market tachometer in my 1998 Tacoma 4x4 with the 2.7 engine? Thanks
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and on the lower portion of the rear doors, and bed the paint has come off and is rusted. the rear flares are also pitted. saw the rep today and she denied the claim to fix saying it is caused by enviro conditions. just trying to find something out ,research, other cases, anything. this problem has been going on since 3500 miles
  • yotayota Posts: 2
    I have a 03 tacoma double cab and the paint is coming off near the rear doors and the lower portion of the bed. Is this the same problem. They won't fix mine they say that is caused by enviro conditions
  • jschelljschell Posts: 1
    Sorry about making this a reply (I found the sight difficult). Im having a starting issue after I have run the truck for a while. Its a 1996 Tacoma 4x4 2.7L, here are the conditions to have an issue: the vehicle must be run to a good operating temp. for 15-20 min then kill the engine and let it sit for another 10-15 min. When I try to start the truck it floods out, I know it is flooding by the fuel smell in my oil, the truck starts again either by me trying again and again or leaving alone and trying again after 5min or so. No one has been able to help, not my mechanic, not toyota, not anyone. I did get a suggestion of an injector leaking down after killing the truck, but they are expensive to just give it a try. If anyone has any possible suggestions let me know. This issue as also led me to thiking about a swap to a toyota diesel engine, any ideas on that aswell let me know.

    thanks
    jared
  • jimmerjimmer Posts: 9
    my 05 dc 4x4 was squeaking and making noises whenever i hit a bump or turned into a driveway. On my truck it's coming from the front bumper, where it actually mounts to the frame. toyota is aware of the problem but doesn't have a fix yet! My dealer mounted some old bumper between the mounts and the frame to remedy the problem for now!! It's better but i'm still waiting for the bulletin from toyota.
  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply-
    I ended up cleaning out the throttle body which had quite a buildup of black crap and just for good measure I changed the fuel filter today. After I cleaned the throttle body out I haven't had a problem what so ever with idleing or hesitation.
    I don't have K&N filter, but am sure that is a decent upgrade for the money.
  • l5504l5504 Posts: 8
    Just an update. The rough idle has not returned sense my last posting. But the hesitation seems to be getting gradually worse. Starts ok, runs ok until you mash on it. Then it hesitates. It does this in Park, Neutral or Drive. The lower the RPMs the more the hesitation. No after market filters or parts. All stock. Good thing I don't own a gun. It would be one dead Yota.
  • zirczirc Posts: 2
    Ok i usually dont post on these things but i read my chiltons and this forum and i am not so heavy on EFI so i thought i'd see if anyone else had the same issues.
    while driving if i get on the gas too hard the motor will hesistate and stumble real bad...but if i gradually step on the throttle there's not an issue ( fyi 5 speed manual trans) it also has difficulty starting ...but once started the issue isnt as severe as when i've driven it for awhile. I already changed the fuel filter ( what a nightmare, i wish i had the hands of the 8 yr old for that!!) the check engine light is on...but i was wondering if anybody knows or has any "its this stupid!!!" fixes ...i have a feeling its something really simple ..

    as a note i am in the navy and it sits for awhile sometimes and it started immediately after i drove it up onto a curb one day parallel parking and came down of the curb kinda hard ....when i returned is when the headache began...it wouldnt start and i had to get home...so i pulled the fuel filter and poked a hole in it as a get my butt home fix and it worked but with the stumbling when my right foot got heavy (theres was no check engine light initially). i put a new one in.....and it was better but has gotten worse over the last 2 or 3 weeks and also i guess the 76 stations around here (western WA) had been sellin crappy gas too and thats where i was goin at the time..
  • drathardrathar Posts: 7
    If the check engine light is on you should be able to get a fault code. You will need some equipment to get that code, and a manual to decipher it. My guess is it is an oxygen sensor.

    Thanks for your service in the US Navy!!!
  • kimm3kimm3 Posts: 2
    it means: air-fuel sensor heater circuit response malfunction...
    i have no idea what it means in regular english though...
  • kimm3kimm3 Posts: 2
    what does this mean? well, i know the definitions, but how do i fix it?
  • jtillerjtiller Posts: 1
    In response to your vibration problem, I own the same truck. Mine has the TRD, but not sure if that makes a difference (we do have different diffs, though). I noticed a similar problem, but in third gear. It is a cyclical, pulsating vibration of approximately 1hz (1 cycle each second). Although I don't work in the auto industry, I am an engineer, and am convinced it's a harmonics problem somewhere between the tranny and the transfer case.

    Long story short (I'll try), I took it in 7 or 8 times (5 were thoroughly documented repair/inspection attempts; others were for ride-alongs, etc.). They first told me at 5k some bs reason, like I had mud caked on my tires or something. Then, they inspected the drive shaft, transfer case, diff, etc., before replacing the tranny fluid. Told me to drive it home and come back for a new tranny if it persisted. It did, but they did not (replace it). I'm missing work, having to fill out paperwork each time for rental cars, etc., and each time I don't even make it home before I've duplicated it again. So, I play dumb and ask what they know about the Lemon Law. They give me some line about it not being in my best interest, and then I whip out the copy I printed off the web an hour earlier, and read it to them. They seemed to have taken me more seriously at that point, but that didn't solve the problem yet. They have their "team leader" tech ride along with me, and this time he removes the rear drive shaft before having me put it in 4H (making it front wheel drive) and drive around. To my premature relief, the VIBRATION IS GONE! Next is the drive shaft replacement, then the rear diff. Still a vibration. They stall me, ask me to wait a week for this reason or that, and don't want to say the words "transmission" or "transfer case," I think because they don't want to eat the cost if it doesn't fix it.

    I call or am called by several people, to no evail. They call me their buddy when we speak, but never really offer any real solution, other than me trading it in for "a great deal" on an 05 in which I'd have to cover the $5200 difference b/t what mine's worth and the rock-bottom price on a new one. They wouldn't even throw in a car wash for all my trouble, and they laugh at the idea of giving me a new truck or throwing in an accessory once it's potentially fixed.

    So, I researched as much as I could about the Lemon Law in my state, and then I sent an email to a law firm specializing in these cases. They call me back 4 minutes later and tell me I have a great case. Within a week, they have all my info and have agreed to represent me (that was this week) with no retainer, and waive all fees if we end up losing. Statute decrees that all lawyer fees are paid by Toyo if we win. Most likely scenario is a cash settlement, but a replacement is a possibility. The out of pocket I'll have to pay is about $300 total for an ASE mechanic to verify the problem exists, and some kind of court cost. That's it, regardless of the outcome of the case. 90% of cases settle almost immediately. Law firm states 99% success rate if it actually goes to court. The down side is the process may take a while, and I'm supposed to keep mileage to a minimum during the process. There's a lot more to it, but I'll stop here. I'd highly recommend searching for a firm called Krohn and Moss if you want to learn more about your rights and what you're realistically entitled to.

    So, in summary, I could no longer live with the problem, especially on a brand new truck, and decided my only real option left was to pursue legal action. The worst part about all this? I LOVE the truck otherwise. Sure, the gas mileage or effective hp could be a little better, but I've really grown attached to it. I just want the quality and flaw resolution I had in mind when I spent 23k on a new Toyota.
  • rmb4rmb4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 tacoma with the 3.4L V6. The fuse box is busted and I need a new one. I am trying to find one off another wreck that is still good, but the problem is I dont know which ones will work. Does it have to be one off a 3.4l or can it come off a 4cyl. I know there are at least two types, but dont know which will work for me. If you can help please let me know. Thanks
  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5
    I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pre-runner x-cab V6 with 91000 miles auto. Within the last month I have had my engine cut out twice at a stop light (like stalling with a manual trans). And within the last week, upon startup, I have the engine stall out. The engine would cycle and then drop RPM's to zero and be out ... If I hold down the gas I can get it to stay ... and when it is warm it doesn't seem to have a problem -- any ideas on what to look at for the fix?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    The first thing I would check is the fuel filter. It's relatively inexpensive and is often the cause of what you're describing.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5
    Ken,

    Is the fuel filter easy to access or do you need an auto shop to get to it? I have not picked up a tacoma service manual yet, so unsure on exact location.

    Thank you.
  • sgttoddsgttodd Posts: 4
    The fuel filter is located appr. underneath the drivers side seat in the undercarriage. It's relatively easy to change and to make sure it doesn't leak after changing put some white plumbers tape on the threads but make sure you use the tape that is meant for fuels. If you dont use it no biggy, but you might have more problems getting the connections leakproof if you dont. Another possible quick solution to your problem is to clean out the throttle body. That coupled with cleaning the MAF cured my rough idle, hesiotation problrm right up.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    ditto the last posting. *ROFL* honestly, that was a perfect complement to my suggestion.

    Ken
  • 0rbit1230rbit123 Posts: 5
    I would like to thank you both - I cleaned out my MAF and it seems to running a lot smoother. Just curious, to clean out the fuel filter - do I need to drain/empty my fuel tank or some how bleed the lines to ensure no fuel will come spraying out when I try and detach. If yes, what is a good process to do this. If you can't tell, I am just getting into working on my own vehicle and don't have a good grasp on the basics yet.

    Thanks again.
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