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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Mine does work up to 50 ft. away, maybe more, and it doesn't matter what side of the truck I'm on, so I'd get yours replaced. pt
i was just wondering if anyone can answer me this. I got my oil changed last week and the dealer spilt it all over so it was leaking off of my skid-plate. That stopped now but when I was down there looking at it i noticed a purple clamp on my skid plate as it fell off from something. I also saw that it looks like they color code those since there were some blue ones on some hoses as well.
Anyone know what those purple ones are for? I tried looking for some more but I could not find any.
Ajk
Sorry, but let this be a lesson to you......don't take your truck to a dealer. It's cheaper and safer to do it yourself.
While you have the skidplate off, get some degreaser and spray it on the plate, that'll get old oil right off.
Thanks
Dennis
The drain tube (which I believe is what normally causes the puddle under everyone's car after A/C use) was not aligned properly and was draining into my passenger side carpet instead of under the truck.
They realingned it and the inside no longer got wet.
Troy
I've owned many cars and trucks, and they all fire right up when you turn the ignition. Is this a Tacoma trait, or do I have something wrong?
It runs well, and I'm getting good gas milage otherwise.
Thanks!
Mike
Thanks,
Bob
Dealer won't be able to fix this.....so you'll have to live with it. My truck squeaks, even after lift, so does everyone elses'. Turn up the radio and keep driving
Also why do they sell 4X4 trucks with street tires on them?? The first thing I did was by some mud tires. Other than that toyota trucks are great.
2. Do everyone a favor: lose some weight I'm 200, and I stand on the tailgate with no problems.
3. 4x4s come equipped stock with RoughTrail (or something) because you don't spend all your time 4x4'ing, and instead spend it on the road. Selling a Tacoma with BFG MT is a waste of time, b/c as trucks enter mainstream, more and more idiots buy them. Mud tires are slick in rain, and provide a lot less control. With RoughTrails, you get best of both worlds. They can stand up to some abuse on trails, and are good onroad.
If that's the case, take it to a spring shop and ask them to break the leafs apart and install silencers. These are usually very thin fiberglass reinforced nylon or some other material that fit between each leaf of the spring. These prevent metal-to-metal contact and will likely eliminate any noise.
Good luck,
Dusty
That's all.
I figure that no automotive company (unless you're buying Lexus and above) tells the complete truth about their vehicles. There aren't that many alternatives to a Tacoma, the only truck that even comes close to it is Ranger, but I'll take a Taco over it any day.
I wouldn't buy another Toyota again, not even on my worst day!
Any ideas what this might be. Is this common to the breed?
Otherwise, its is a great vehicle, the best value on the market.
Thanks for the help.
Jon
Here's the problem: Occasionally, the truck (1998 Tacoma 4x4 extra cab 3.4L 5 speed TRD) will just "click" when I hit the starter switch. I thought it might be the clutch cancel switch, but moved floormats and all out from under and it didn't help when fully depressed. I have had it not turn before when the mat was up under the pedal after a bath. The power windows work with no sluggishness, as do all the beeps and squeaks associated with powering up. Headlights work too. This leads me to believe the battery is good and has a good charge. After several times "clicking", the engine will turn over and start normally, so I am thinking solenoid or starter. Local parts house has the combo for $130 or so with core, and can check it for me if I yank it off and take it in. How much trouble is it to get off a 4x4? I have a boatload of tools and from what my Haynes manual says, it should be two bolts, two wires and free, but it also says I MAY have to take off the front wheel and lower the inner fender well to get to it. Any experiences with this malady would be appreciated. Good news is, I can almost always park on a hill around here. Thanks in advance for any help.
Hank
<http://store.yahoo.com/brandsportinc/toy-08586-04820.html>
I installed this item on our new 2000 Tacoma. I note there is currently a discounted price...ie. less than I paid. Complete instructions come from Toyota and it is imperative that one follow the directions exactly....checking ea. off as completed. The system took about one day to install (working slowly but carefully) and everything worked perfectly on completion. Go for it! You can do it. :-)
Slow starting: please stay on your dealer, their job is to blow you off.
sc0rpi0: i think you have a TacoDC4x4 as well. the issue i had was in 4x4, i left my truck in a dirt parking lot for 3 days in 4x4hi and in park. when i got back and try to drive the truck, it seems like it was not in gear, i had the brake down, put in drive and 4x4hi, the truck won't move, i then played with the 4x4 shifter putting it in lo, and neutral, and the parking brake line seems like it was stuck on the 4x4 gear shift. has this happened to you, is this the "norm". after playing for a while i was able to get on my way.
I can't say that this has ever happened to be before, I never had any issues with putting truck in gear after offroading. If you play in mud, it is possible that it'll get into your brakes, cake up in there and it may take a bit of effort to break up the dirt in brakes. That's my theory. But since it was just a dirt parking lot, it doesn't hold much water.
But let me say that this is not a normal behavior. Don't go to a dealer with it (Toyota is not known for it's great customer service with customers who are not offroading, think what'll happen to you . I suggest you ask this in forums on www.tacomaterritory.com , we have a bunch of guys with auto trannies who can help you out more.
If anyone has ANY suggestions/comments, please post them. Thanks.
I'll let the mechanics answer your question on where to check. There isn't a reservoir like for brakes, etc.
The recommended fix I believe was a ton of silicone. Which I can see under the hood by the firewall. It did stop the leaking though so I guess I can't complain too much.
If there is what is the recommended time to change it? Where is it located?
Had a similar problem with my 95 Tacoma 2.7L 4 cyl 4X4. When I got my oil changed, I think they were only filling it with 5 qts of oil when the specs say 5.7 qts of oil.
Don't know if this is it, but when I added another 1/2 qt to mine after the oil change, my knocks went away?
twood2
I posted a message last year about bad mileage and I'm still getting bad mileage. Repair shops (four to be exact incl two Toyota Dealerships) state that they cannot find anything wrong with my 1995 Tacoma 2.7L 4 cyl. 4X4 because it doesn't throw any codes.
I have done all the basic tune-up steps (plugs, wires, distr., rotor, fuel filter, air, PCV). Still a problem.
Intersting thing is when I bought the truck at 110,000 miles, it needed a new catalyctic converter. A year to the day, I had it replaced again (so three total since I've purchased it). Right after cat replacement, mileage went from around 14-16 to 19-20?
Mileage has been creeping down again (in the 17s right now) and it feels like the cat is going again. Temps are going down as well as I live in New England. I've also read how raw fuel from a rich mixture can burn the cat out?
I have no idea what could be causing this? It does run rough (shakes when idling). Fuel pressure regulator, MAF sensor, temp sensor, O/2 sensor, any sensor??? A hose that could be loose like one of the recently published articles on Edmunds (which hose)? Nothing's giving a reading. Any ideas?
1. Cosmetic. Front grill changed that year, so all mounts did too.
2. Brakes. In 2001 Toyota went to 16" rims b/c they put large ABS calipers on all their trucks.
3. I think there were some safety changes.
Should be no changes as far as drivetrain goes. I use a generic '95+ manual which includes T100, 4Runner and Tacoma.
+ I have a 2000 Taco Ext. Cab 4X4 2.7 4Cyldr 5 Speed.
+ Never had any problems, had dealer service at 25K and 48K. All oil changes under 5K miles, most near 3K.
+ Check engine light came on at 75K.
+ Brought it in to the dealer for diagnosis of CE Light and next scheduled maintenance.
+ Dealer asked me if I had a valve adjustment at 60K, I told them "No, didn't know it needed one." They said it absolutely must have one done then or you can have major problems with the valves, etc. I talked to other 4Cylndr. Tacoma owners they never heard of this, but it is in the manual.
+ After diagnosis they said "Cylinder 1 had a misfire, thus the CE Light". They said the valve in that cylinder was pretty far out of spec, so they did an adjustment and they said they "saved it" by bringing it back in to spec. They said they needed to "shim" the valve to bring it back within spec. They also did my maintenance (plugs, fluids, etc).
+ Drove it away, 4K Miles later (79K), Check Engine light came on again. They said same cylinder had a misfire but their technician put in the wrong spark plug in that cylinder. They replaced all spark plugs, and I drove it away.
+ 2 Days later, Check engine light came on again, they reported that the valve is out of spec again (0.06 accepted range is between 0.10 - 0.15). They said they "Don't know what is wrong with the engine, but in order to find out they need to do a TEARDOWN.
+ Dealer turned off Check Engine Light - at 82K Miles it came on again.
+ Dealer saie teardown of engine will cost $1,000 just to diagnose the problem. This seems weird that they can't diagnose the problem without tearing down the entire engine first. They said they may have the rebuild the top end of my engine.
+ My truck drive absolutely fine with no performance or fuel efficiency difference. Lately however it does seem to be idling a bit rough.
Has anyone had a similar experience to this with their Tacoma? Any ideas about what is causing this misfire or what an "out of spec valve" can do to my engine?
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Also, the mileage sucks. I have been pampering the vehicle through break-in period yet I am getting 16-17mpg. I increased tire pressure to 32 psi from factory 27 psi. Comments?
Realistically, you'll see 17-19 in the city, and on average, 19-20 on highway.
Things you can do:
1. Increase tire pressure. After the increase, do a chalk test to make sure your tire is wearing out correctly (although at 32 you're fine. I run 35 in my BFG AT)
2. Switch to synthetic oil. It may be a myth that synthetics increase gas milage, but you get such benefits as better wear, longer time between changes. Overall, it may just come out to be the same $$ (if I don't have time to change my oil, I go to a dealer and bring my oil, you get a discount on the service since you're not using theirs). I run synthetic in the front/rear diffs, T-case, tranny and engine.
3. Get better air filter. This is a tricky one, and you shouldn't do it unless you really want to. I'm talking about oiled filters, like Amsoil or K&N. There is some risk of throttle body sensor damage associated with them (seen a few people complain about it, but majority doesn't have problems). Oiled filters have a higher air volume specs (Allow more air through), which supplies more air to your engine, thus ECU reduces amnt of gas it needs to mix.
I do alot of weekend driving in the mountains and use the transmission as much as possible to slow the vehicle down when needed.
At 10K I started to feel vibrations in the front end of the truck. At 15K the dealer smoothed the rotors and told me to stay off the brakes. Today at 17K the truck is back in the shop for the same vibrations in the front end, my guess the rotors.
I do use the transmission to slow the truck down when possible and I have not carried heavy loads.
Has anyone else experienced a high level of maintenance on their brake rotors?
My driving is mostly highway with some mountain and a couple of stop and go spots occasionally on my commute home. I don't think I've had exceptional wear on the pads or rotors - both were original when I changed them out at 135,000 miles.
What is my drivetrain warranty? Does anybody have any advice for getting satisfaction out of the dealer? The truck has 53,000 miles and has been very well cared for. This ain't supposed to happen, I was goin for 200,000 with this baby, just like in the commercials.......
Jon
It should not be a hassle, but unfortunately there are bad dealers out there. Most don't give their customers any trouble, hope you get one of those.
If your dealer refuses warranty, go to another one, or go directly to regional rep.