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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories
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Comments
Rear upgrade. Obviously going from 4 inch to 5 1/4 inch helps. Also I started closing the cargo cover as someone suggested earlier. The difference didn't seem as big as expected when I did side-by-side comparisons against the factory speakers.
Front upgrade. At first, (same as with rear speakers) only changed the right front speaker. Did side by side comparisons...fiddled with all bass...then all treble...tried to isolate highs, lows, middles, clarity, etc, using several different songs/CDs to compare the Polks to the factory speakers.... Well, I must admit the Polks didn't seem to beat the the factory speakers by much, if any. Thought I'd wasted my money. But,
Call it synergy. Once I had all four Polks in, voila, it sounds much better, crisper. I'm happy. Also the construction quality of the Polks is great. Think they'll last forever. I don't plan to do anything else to my sound system. A little more bass would be nice, but it's not worth the cost/effort/modification/lost-space to me.
Bottom line: For me, $150 well spent.
Let me know!
The stresses that are absorbed by the trailer hitch are gradual in nature and are channeled through a different path than the sharp impacts transmitted by a bumper. If hit, the bumper is going to have to dissipate much more energy than towing will ever create.
Now, I know that many of you live in New York, where, apparently, people park and drive by "feel." Understandably, you wish to protect you vehicles from the damage that can be caused by this type of driving. However, the vast majority of us do not live in such a venue. So, not only are you now redesigning the impact protection of your vehicle, you are also jeopardizing other vehicles that may impact yours and become test drivers for your new impact system.
Witness Ford's efforts to minimize such damage with their supplemental bumper system on their Excursion.
Finally, your newly engineered system may cause more harm to another vehicle than the bumper otherwise would have. Many of you will argue that the other vehicle "deserves" more damage if they hit you. But the bottom line is that no one wants to be in an accident, whether or not they caused it. I'm sorry, but it absolutely drives me nuts to see people driving around with a trailer hitch in the receiver when they are not towing something. That hitch will cause a hell of a lot of damage if it impacts something, and it may also damage the vehile it is attached to when the hitch assembly bends the frame.
Of course, your opinion may vary.
Tom
The hitch is attached to the frame just like a bumper. The present trooper bumper does very little if anything. The hitch mounted bar represents something close to a regular bumper like on the older vehicles. It offers protection. If one is worried about this then once must also ban all hitch mount bike racks (more dangerous IMO), other accessories that people put on hitches like cargo carriers etc. I do not agree that your vehicle needs to be designed to soften the impact to someone else. First of all if they don't hit the bumper bar they are liable to ride underneath and plow into the gas tank. Second, by doing damage to the spare tire case, the back doors, the bumper, and the lights, they can end up paying $4000 to pay for your vehicle. That has to hurt in insurance alot more than that bar bumping their bumper. Finally, if I want to put a steel bumper on the back and the front of my trooper as a modification, something that Isuzu does not do now because of prohibitive cost and the hopes of a little better gas mileage, then that is my perogative. The back of the trooper is not designed for protection of the other vehicle--let's face it. Sorry but there is a big difference in opinion here.
2) The protection that will be provided above stock is incredible. The cover of the spare tire alone is nearly 2x the cost of the metal bar alone.
3) Are you suggesting that we ban all trailer hitches and tounge attachements? Like bike racks, platforms, and people who leave the tounge inside the receiver all the time?
There is definitely a big range of opinions on this topic. IMHO if you are gonna worry about it hitting the tank, then you shouldn't buy a car with the tank rear mounted. Not to mention there is a skid plate, a steel tank, and a huge trailer hitch bar between the bumper protector and the gas tank! You also have a very hot muffler sitting next to the tank as well, in a collision that could be pushed into the gas tank and cause it to ignite!
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
I am not at all advocating "banning" people from using bike racks, et. al., in their hitch receiver. When you are using those accessories, there is clearly a purpose to having them in the hitch. What I AM suggesting, however, is that the bumper protection that you have installed to protect you from parking lot dings has just added a new, untested dynamic to the vehicle when you are rear-ended at twenty mph.
I agree with you that bumpers do not offer a great deal of protection. But you're really not trying to save yourselves from danger in an impact here. If you think that a two-inch tubular piece of steel with one welded attach point will do that, then you're substantially more optomistic than I would be. I don't think you are. The real reason is that you don't want the paint scraped off the corner of your bumper. Your second paragraph above pretty much sums it up. The "protection" you seek is protection from scuffs on the vehicle. I don't think you'd be any happier if your '74 Olds or your '83 Ramcharger had dents or scrapes in their bumpers, regardless of the quality of steel in the bumpers. Also, there's nothing on the back of those vehicles to hit. Let's face it: Isuzu couldn't protect their spare tire design unless the bumper was 3 feet deep. So let's not chalk up the decision to buy the bar to anything other than cosmetic protection and the fact you think you're paying too much at the parts store.
Please don't use the "they don't make them like they used to" argument. All cars today are so much safer and maintenance-free that there is no comparison. One need only make one trip to MN to see the effects of corrosion on those old vehicles. There's no question that they cost much more, but you are getting much more.
I made no comments about the fuel tank. I have no more idea what would happen in an impact than you do. However, that's the point here. Isuzu did two recalls to fix a fuel line leakage caused by an impact--we have no idea what the extra bumper will do.
As I said before, it is your prerogative to install such a device. However, if you should get into an accident (something more than a parking lot fender-bender), please don't expect the other party to be happy if your new bumper flies around and causes additional damage than otherwise would have happened.
I realize that we disagree on this issue. All I'm asking is to give some thought to the consequences of having a two-inch tubular piece of steel that is pointed on both ends hanging below your bumper. My posts are not meant to change your mind any more than I could change your religious or political views, how often you change your oil, or what octane you believe to be the best. However, please don't try to convince me of the engineering and protective merits of an untested bumper system until there are actual tests to validate your claims.
Regards,
Tom
BTW, in terms of thoughts of how to make crashes less dangerous we could go on all day and include items in the cargo area of your SUV that could fly if not tied down, bike racks on the back of cars with bikes flimsily attached, people on cell phones (legislation being passed against that in CT when driving), tractor trailer trucks, vehicles of unequal size which give undo advantage to the person with the bigger truck in the crash, etc. I've thought about it and do not believe the bar is going anywhere in a crash but will only bend toward the trooper bumper. I do not believe it will cause added problem in a crash and it might stop someone from running up under the trooper.
rear bumper replacement and painting: $750
tire cover: $250
rear door: $1,XXX ???
lights: $250??
Protective bar: $129
IMHO this bar is gonna save me a lot of money in the long run. If I didn't parrallel park, go to strip malls, go to malls, or park near others, then I'd never have a need for it.
-mike
-mike
I finally did some real off-roading today down in the Pine Barrens after installing the new shocks and springs. Before I left, I cranked up the Rancho 9000s to setting 5 (most stiff setting) and it made a world of difference. Combined with the OME rear springs the truck handled like a charm. The best part was once I got home, I cranked them back down to 3/3 and it is a nice relatively soft ride for day to day use. I'm sure the OME shocks are also great off-road, but if you are a person who does very little off-roading, but wants to be able to stiffen them up when you do those few off-roading stints these are THE shocks to get.
-mike
-mike
I should have some photos to forward from our ride in the next couple days.
-mike
For those of you with children still using car seats, I've found some tether points to secure front and rear facing carseats.
For front facing you can use the cargo tie downs in the cargo area. Just toss the tether over the back of the seat - then crawl in back and hook it up and tighten it.
For rear facing car seats - you can use the center position in the back seat. Just open the plastic panel below the cup holders and you'll find a couple straps there that are designed to hold the back seats in place when they are in the folded / tumbled position.
You can fasten your tether to one of the straps in a pinch - but it would be better to replace the screw that holds the straps with a tether bolt. Most car seats with tethers come with a bolt and a fastener to clip the strap to. Might have to crawl under the vehicle to put a reinforcing washer on the bottom side. When you're not using it you can put the plastic panel back and cover up the tether bolt.
-mike
BTW it is also nice that the shoulder belts in the rear have the feature that forces them to be retracted before they can be let out. Any car sear you put on those cannot come lose without an adult removing it.
If I actually have to shell out 6 grand to rebuild my engine, I wonder how much a pontiac 454 would cost to put in? Or perhaps if I have my engine rebuilt vs. replacing the bottom half, could I have it bored out? If Statefarm doesn't cover it, I may look down one of these routes...
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
If I actually have to shell out 6 grand to rebuild my engine, I wonder how much a pontiac 454 would cost to put in? Or perhaps if I have my engine rebuilt vs. replacing the bottom half, could I have it bored out? If Statefarm doesn't cover it, I may look down one of these routes...
If it is power you want, and you already have a dead engine, then I would look at maybe a bore and stroke increase as well as some freer flowing heads. But then again, the options available for hopping up a new Trooper may be very limited.
Just my amateur $.02. Use at your own discretion.
My next upgrade is the install of a I & N filter. What I need to know is which one to buy. I know they have simple replacement filters and also an air box replacement too. I also need the part number for it if anyone got it.
Next id' like to print the 5.25" rear speaker directions that where posted on the board some time back. I found the 4" install directions on isuzu-suv.com but I need to know particularly how to drill the holes in the rear pillars and how the speaker mounts so I can use the EM grills.
Lastly, The wheels on my trooper look so stock. Its a 94 I with the stock steel wheels and shiny beauty guards. While i applaud its originality, i have to do something. Ive read in the past where folks were able to find the spoked wheels that came on later troopers. I was also thinking about a black "jackman" type spoked wheel. Do you guys have any links or places to find such wheels?
PS: Im northern california outside of sacramento. Ive heard that there is a great isuzu truck wrecking yard in Folsom somewhere. Does anyone know the name or phone number of this wrecking yard.
PPS: GO LAKERS.....
-mike
2. What is the sand reputation of these?
3. I have shift on the fly 4wd. After engaging, and running in 4wd, the front end whines (30 mph). Is this normal?
Thanks
Easiest upgrade to get more lift is to get OME springs in the rear and crank your T-bars in the front. Also upgrade to OME or Rancho or Bilstein shocks.
I've had my '97 on the beach in NC w/o a problem, and just had my trooper down in the sandy pine barrens of nj see http://isuzu-suvs.com for faqs, pics etc.
-mike
I've heard bits and pieces about a gasket problem, but I don't know much about it - how common is it? Which Troopers does it affect? When is the problem occurring? What are the symptoms?
My 98 has 45k miles, which means 5k more on the bumper-to-bumper and 15k more on the powertrain warranty. I don't want to get stung just out of warranty on this gasket thing. I am not buying and do not plan to buy an extended warranty. In my opinion, an extended warranty on a vehicle like the newer Troopers is wasted money on insurance.
-mike
Would the symptoms include pulling up to a stoplight and the engine just immediately dies?
I've had this happen twice in 35000 miles on my '99: once last year and once this year so far. No other symptoms - no surging, no noise, just silence and 0 rpms. It immediately started back up with no problem both times.
Let me know if you have more info.
Anyone else out there have any info?
-mike
Can anyone who's made this upgrade, post the particular improvements either published or arbitary.
PS: Crutchfield has the Polk 501 on sale for $69 a set.
-mike
-mike
http://isuzu-suvs.com
The rack sits on top of the roof using Q-towers and is clamped inside the door frames using metal clips protected with black vinyl tape. The Q-towers have a large foot with a thick (clear) silicone pad so I don't think it will ever mar the paint (as long as you clean the spot underneath it before you clamp it down.) When this thing is clamped down it's really solid. You can pull on it pretty hard and nothing moves. The directions (bar measurement spacings)call for the Q-towers to clamp down partially over the rubber strips on the roof, and partially over the rounded edge of the roof. It seems kind of an odd place but the towers adjust to the uneven surface and fit very snug.
Once I had the bars and towers assembled and installed I put on a fairing and a set of gunwale brackets (for hauling a canoe, ladders etc.) The gunwale brackets are flexible and just slip on the bar from the top. Then you put a bolt through the bottom of each and they're on. The fairing took about 15 minutes to put together and install on the front cross bar. I also installed lock cores. To put them in you just pry the small plastic covers out of the lock core holes in the towers - then insert the cores. They supply a special key to help you insert and remove the lock cores. As you add accessories to your rack you can add more locks that will all work with the same key.
Once I had it all together I took it off and put it back on to see how hard it was. Took less than 5 minutes to unclamp the towers, take it off, then put it back on. It mounted just as securely. I used the maximum spacing so my front bar is at the front of the front door frame, and the back bar is all the way at the back of the back door frame. Wide spacings work best when hauling long stuff like a 16 ft canoe.
I only keep the rack on when I need to haul something and store it in the garage the rest of the time. It cuts down on wind resistance and makes it easier to wash / wax etc. Best of all you can haul some serious stuff on this rack. It's rated at 165 pounds and Yakima has every conceivable accessory to haul just about anything. Their racks are very strong and functional and they aren't hard to look at either. I wasn't thrilled initially about the thought of a door frame clip mount but after seeing how it works I think it's a good system if you don't have raingutters to mount to. I think the optimal system for a Trooper would be a set of roof rails / tracks with adjustable (removable and sliding) Yakima towers that would work with all the Yakima accessories.
Will probably add a storage box sometime in the future. I like the Packasports but will probably go with a Yakima or Thule to save some money.
-mike