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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jrct9454jrct9454 Member Posts: 2,363
    I stand corrected. However, that's the way it worked on our '85, '86, and '87 BMW 3ers. If you can tell him how else to do it, great....
  • holeinoneholeinone Member Posts: 48
    Thanks Paul!
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    A combination of those methods worked on my 2002 325xi. It was a pain, and I wish I had had the tool, but I was able to get it work.

    Best way to avoid it though. Check your brakes every so often to see how close that sensor is getting to the rotor and avoid the light coming on in the first place. :)

    -Paul
  • flyfish2flyfish2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tips guys but my problem is the OIL SERVICE light not brakes. I tried the technique on the Post #24796 but that did not work - I presume because my odometer is not digital being a 1989. So I quess I will have to get hold of a Light Reset Tool. Any advice on where I can find one and any idea of $$. Appreciate all the advice
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Somehow I missed that you had an 89, or I read it as a 99. I truly apologize. I was giving information for an E46.

    -Paul
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,419
    Do a google search for "Peake reset tool".. that should bring up something..

    But, I haven't tried it..

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  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Thanks, bimmernut2.
    My tech figured it out after I posted. He had some wiring messed up. He's working on the engine cooling system and someone was in there before we got to it.

    (also has HVAC trouble and a whole pile of other problems. The salesmen are crying in their beers on this one. Someone traded it in for an Equinox)
  • tmaliktmalik Member Posts: 27
    Hi all..I'm looking in to becoming a first time BMW-owner. New is out of my budget ( :( ), but am thinking of a used one. Considering a 4-door from the 1999-2002 model years with around 60-80k miles. My questions are..

    1. Any estimates on what typical annual maintenance costs would be for a 5-6 year old 3-series? I'ld plan on keeping it 5+ years, and would use it for a daily commute of about 30 busy suburban miles. I've read repeated references to the expensive maintenance of German vehicles and have always thought an Acura would be my best bet, although I love the styling of the previous gen 3-series. So what would a reaonsable annual budget be?

    2. In Canada, BMW sold a base model 320 with a 168-hp engine. Anyone ever owned one of these? If so, how does it drive?

    3. I have 2 toddlers and would ocassionally want to take them for a spin. Heard the backseats are too tight to position forward-facing child seats in them. Any thoughts?

    For reference our primary car is a 2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan (3 years and 45k with no surprises) and live in Toronto, Canada.

    Thanks!
  • ikloiklo Member Posts: 1
    This is exactly the problem I am having with my 2002 320i! Another day the yellow oil warning light came on, while driving. It went away after engine restart, but left me wondering. I can't get a clue from the dipstick as it looks exactly like yours. It appears like only the arrow at the tip is covered with oil - is it a good or bad thing? Hope you figured it out by now. If so please let me know. Cheers,
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Sorry I didn't get back with you sooner; I had to go out of town to a mandatory conference(AKA the usual fiasco). I can't offer much help on the Bentley manual; I got my E36 volume so long ago that I forgot where I bought it.
  • jynxjynx Member Posts: 9
    hi guys - i just got my 2006 325i yesterday, 6/28/05, and wondering what's the recommended breaking-in driving? the manual says 1st 1250 miles that the breaking-in speed is 4500rpm or 100mph. however, i've read somewhere that it is 45mph for 1st 1000 miles. so what is correct? please tell me from you personal experience. thanks alot!
  • kasperghostkasperghost Member Posts: 72
    Congrats! 1,200 miles of pain...Go by the manual...The designer/builder of the engine will be most accurate- Happy motoring
  • jynxjynx Member Posts: 9
    any new 325i owners notices the loud and "racing" engine sound when you start your car in the morning. this sound quickly silences as the car warm up. can anyone asnwer this? should i bring it back to the dealer?
  • jamesspotjamesspot Member Posts: 57
    and engine software reflashed.

    I know others have posted on this on their manual sedans, but I want to thank board members for their postings that allowed me to know what to look for. My car went in for its first "low mileage" oil change at one year and 10k miles. It had been "sputterring" during hard acceleration in 2nd gear as the rpm climbed through 4200-4300. My car always had a stable idle - only the acceleration stutter was evident.

    The dealer replaced the faulty DISA valve and reprogrammed the DME iaw service measure 12-209-05.

    RESULT: Smooth, flawless, wind-up acceleration throughout the rev band. .88 hours of BMW technician time and a great appreciation for my BMW dealer's service department and respect for my Service Advisor. I'm happy and enjoying my car much more.

    It's easy to diagnose the symptoms of this in your manual transmission car. Get it moving in first, and then shift to second. Under full throttle, wind it out to 60 mph. If you feel a stutter/sputter as you pass through 4200-4300 rpm at 40-45 mph, you have a faulty valve. It should wind up smoothly. Mine would sputter around three times before it would pass through that point and accelerate to redline. SO much better now, the way it is supposed to be!
  • denzilpdenzilp Member Posts: 1
    Does the sensor work on the feroda brake pads
  • jh1976jh1976 Member Posts: 1
    Hello and thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide. I have a 1999 E46 (323i) with 108k miles on it and my check engine light comes on and off. I took it to a mechanic two times and both times the code was for the 0xygen sensor. They said bring it back if it came back on after they reset it. It is back on, but: I got my own obd2 reader because I am sick of paying 150 to have a code checked. I am getting a camshaft position sensor message. My question is whether I should replace the sensor, or whether the sensor is in fact signaling some other problem that needs to be attended to. I tried clearing the code one time but it came right back on. Fuel economy and performance seem fine. I am a student again so cost is a big issue! Thanks! JH
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    Due to a mishap last weekend, I ended up with a really ugly scratch -- more like a gouge -- in the black trim around the driver's door window on my '04 325i. I'm not looking to totally fix this, which would probably require replacement of the trim piece, but I'm wondering if there are any products that can be used to basically just cover it up and make it less noticeable.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Gee, that sounds familiar! Getting P0369 eh? Problem with the OBD2 readers - it won't tell you WHICH sensor is bad.

    I had this problem just last week. My performance was fine when driving, so I suspected it was the exhaust. BMW replaced it (10 minute change for the exhaust CPS). But the part is about 120 or so (even online). I just hated getting stuck for $100.00 diagnostic fee that should be incorporated in the labor for the repair. The intake sensor is a bit trickier to get to, but there are writeups for it on the web.

    I'm investing in a Bentley manual for my 2002 E46 and will be doing a LOT more on it myself. My tool and knowledgebases are both growing, so I feel more confident doing this type of work myself.

    -Paul
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    We had encountered huge rain storms this morning while driving to work. My car went throught almost a foot of water/puddle a couple times. Soon after that the transmission started to slip and then the car wouldn't move with the TCM light on.Each time after I had turned off the engine and restarted it, the car would move again for a few feet, and then stopped with the TCM light coming on again. I had the car towed to a BMW independent mechanic but he won't be able to look into it for a couple days. He thought one of the possibility was that water got into the module when I drove through the deep water. Do you have any similar experience on the TCM? It is a '94 325i with automatic transmission. Your ideas for the problem are appreciated. TIA
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The E36 DME and automatic transmission control modules are located in a compartment directly behind the glove box. They are accessed from under the hood as shown here. This compartment is sometimes prone to flooding in heavy rains and high pressure car washes. Sometimes simply allowing the module(s) to dry out will cure the problem. It is also possible that the standing water infiltrated the transmission sensors and/or wiring harness.
  • wco81wco81 Member Posts: 594
    Anyone know any good ones which does repairs cheaper than dealers would?

    Say after the warranty and intial free maintenance for new BMWs run out?

    And also for routine maintenance like oil changes and tune ups?
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Thanks again, div2, for sharing your thoughts on this matter. I am waiting for the mechanic to call me today or tomorrow about the problem.
  • mhgmhg Member Posts: 8
    Can anyone provide me with instructions on how to install the cell phone plate and cradle in the center arm rest of the E90? thanks.
  • trevor10trevor10 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I have an 03 325ci, 46,000 miles, Engine is running rough this morning, yellow "Service Engine Soon" light is on.
    This happened previously at just over 40,000 and dealer replaced a spark plug which resolved the problem.
    Since they charged me 120 Euros, I was wondering if I could/should do it myself this time.
    Do I need any special tools? How long can I drive like this? Any precautions I should take?
    I read on a prev post when I searched sparkplugs that they're supposed to last 100K miles, is that true? Could an underlying problem be causing the plugs to go prematurely? Granted I drive it fairly hard (Autobahn), but I thought that's what they're designed for...

    Thanks,
    Trevor
  • sheggawsheggaw Member Posts: 1
    I am a life long die hard BMW fan, and yet will give you an advice to really think about it when you buy the years that you mentioned. Specially, avoid the 1999 & 2000 models. case and point, we bought a 2000 ci with premium package when it was still under warranty and merely 30K on it. From then on, it had to go to the dealer for various reasons while under warranty from the wheel bearing to a door problem. Anyhow, my wife drives the car to and from work maybe an hour of commutue or so. Just last month the transmission went out when it is just under 65K mi. Now we are fighting with BMW N,A who is claiming that since we did not get our car from one of their "BMW Authorized" dealer it can't even be an individual, they are not responsible for it. Apparently this s a very common case on the 3-series Auto. Don't get burned as we did. I would probably even advise you to go for the bigger better car, the 5 series, it is probably better done than the 3. You should do your homework and avoid the years these cars are unreliable.
    Good Luck
    Sheggaw
    1968 Verona 1600
    '95 525i
    '00 323Ci (no broken down)
  • chatkatchatkat Member Posts: 41
    Sorry you are having bad luck with your 323. I have a 2000 328i and it's never been a problem whatsoever. It's been the most perfect car I've owned. I love the car so much that I just bought the 2006 330i
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    I have the standard radio on a 325XiT and it plays terribly - most stations sound like they are very weak with lots of static and noise. It is worse on AM then FM but both are sub par. Anyone have similar experience? The dealer has already replaced the amplifier and the antenna,
  • zshellzshell Member Posts: 2
    I have a 325i 2002. It has done app 23,000 miles. However since I got this car in 2002, I have had recurring problems with air bag warning light going on without any cause. I have taken it back to the dealer 10 times, They have reset the programme, changed the tension belt, and now they tell me that the have also changed the harness, (whatever that means). I just want to know if anybody else had the same problem. Sometimes I think I got stuck with a lemon. but other that that the car runs fine.
  • judgebltjudgeblt Member Posts: 2
    I'll be getting the Bentley guide per your suggestion. I just purchased a 1995 325iC with only 17,000 miles on it...perfect little garage queen. Is there anything maintainence wise you would recommend to make sure all systems are in top shape? The service light for an oil change, though I changed the oil and filter just after purchase, is indicating it's time for an oil change; is there a way to reset it myself or should it be permanently turned off seeing as how the car is way off warranty? Thanks.
  • jkamjkam Member Posts: 15
    I took deliver of an automatic 2006 325i less than a month ago. I have put about 700 miles on it, and I have abided by all the break-in period recommendations in the manual.

    I've noticed 2 problems with the car within the past week or so that I wonder if anyone has experienced. Accelerating from a complete stop results in the engine slipping about 75% of the time. It last for sometimes as long as 4-5 seconds. Also, when I remove my foot from the gas pedal but do not apply the brake, instead of coasting like my other BMW and every other automatic transmission car I have driven, there is a moderate but noticeable pull, similar to what would occur if I lightly applied the brakes.

    I am going to take the vehicle in for service this week, but I'd like to know if anyone else has experience a similar problem.

    thanks,
    joe
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    When I buy a used car I like to perform a complete change of lubricants and fluids-unless I have a full service history that documents that proper service was carried out. That way I have a specific baseline on which I can calculate future maintenance. In your case I'd definitely want to change the brake fluid(DOT 4 ONLY) and the coolant(BMW Coolant ONLY). I'd also stick Mobil1 gear oil in the diff and Mobil 1 ATF in the manual or automatic. As for the Oil Service light, some owners shut it off by shorting a couple of the terminals in the diagnostic plug, but if I were you I'd buy a R5/fcx code reader/reset tool from Peake Research
    image
    I use one on my 3er and 5er and I've been very pleased with it.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Saturday afternoon when pulling out of my driveway, my low oil sensor light came on (glowed yellow). I turned around and checked the oil level in my driveway... it looked fine. I pulled the car into the garage (to be sure it was on level ground) and it still looked fine. When I restarted the car, the light was off. As I pulled out of my driveway, it came on again for about 15 seconds and went off. I haven't seen it on since then. Any thoughts? Should I write it off as a fluke thing or take it in for a professional opinion?

    TIA!
  • nothappy6nothappy6 Member Posts: 1
    I got a brand new BMW 318ti in August 2004. In November 2004 while I was driving on the highway, the engine warning light came on and the car started to jerk uncontrollably when I tried to brake and threatened to lose power. After I pulled over and called BMW to describe the problem, they told me to go no further and have the car tow immediately. After hooking it up for diagnosis, they decided to reprogram the control unit.

    Exactly the same thing happened again in March 2005. BMW checked again and claimed they found a fault in the air mass sensor and replaced it.

    The same thing happened again yesterday. BMW claimed to have replace the air mass sensor again, but I have basically lost all patience and faith in this car. I really like the car and would like to keep it if I can believe that the problem can be fixed. Has this happened to anyone here and can it really be fixed for once and for all? If it's fixable, what should I ask the dealer to do (I don't believe my dealership knows what the problem is)?
  • deweydewey Member Posts: 5,251
    I own a 99 BMW323 and am having problems with the Business stereo. Many times the stereo buttons do not work. I will have a CD on and will not be able to change it or turn it off. All the buttons do not work during such a situation. Fortunately the volume dial is still functional.This problem can last for hours without me stopping my car and opening the CD Changer unit in my trunk.

    Does anybody else have this problem?
  • jlschultzejlschultze Member Posts: 1
    I've read through the forums and found a few messages/solutions that might apply to my situation, but there are a few things different about my situation.
    When the key is turned to start the engine, there is about a 1 second delay, and then the turnover is very slow. It isn't turning over as quickly, but that is only when it decides to turnover. If it turns over, it always starts. All the inside power works when the key is turned on. I just replaced the starter two years ago, as well. This has been going on for a couple of weeks, and just the other day I replaced all the spark plugs to see if this would remedy the problem. It seems that if can't get it to start, if I wait a few minutes and then try again it starts up.
    Another problem I've been having, and I am wondering if the two have anything to do with each other, is when I'm at a stop and the car is idling, sometimes the car will rev up and down, up for a second, then down for a second, and this will continue until I take off again. It also does it if I am coasting without pressing on the accelerator. This car is at 93,000 miles, and I have noticed a decrease in acceleration/power as well. And that isn't even with the AC on.
    Scheduled maintenance w/ dealer-yes, up until about 3 years ago. Oil change/oil filter is always changed on time.
    Anybody want to shed some light?
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    What is a Business stereo?
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    check out Palo Alto Bimmer, or Shulba (not sure if they are still around).
  • deweydewey Member Posts: 5,251
    It's just a standard stereo, I thought all e46s 323s have standard stereos named Business. I dont know who was the genius in Munich who named the stereo Business :confuse:
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    I did find the name Business on my stereo and I can't imagine what someone had in mind naming the unit Business. Maybe something is lost in the translation.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    I think it's because the sound quality is so poor, you'll turn off music, and turn on news.
  • nmrtnmrt Member Posts: 56
    Hello. I have a new E46 and realize that the deck/speakers are not that good. does anybody who has replaced their deck/speakers in their E46 have any suggesstions as to what brands fit well and sound better that stock?

    Thanks.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    works well in BMW's. You could also add an amplifier, but you may introduce noise (from the engine/ignition) if you are not careful.

    -Paul
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    When you say your sound quality is poor are you talking about the fidelity or the static. My primary complaint is with the static I get on most AM stations and the poor reception on FM. My other car is a '04 Acura TL which has a great radio. I can't believe how poor the BMW radio is in comparison.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    is the primary reason I got satellite radio. When I lived in California, we lived in a region about 2 hours NE of Los Angeles. In the mountains radio reception was sporadic at best. Even the local Bakersfield stations didn't come in well up there.

    After having satellite, I have not bothered with AM or FM at all.

    -Paul
  • nmrtnmrt Member Posts: 56
    Thanks. I will look into MBquart speakers.
  • judgebltjudgeblt Member Posts: 2
    Thanks very much! I appreciate the advice. I'm thinking the universal tool is for me, as I have an 02 530i too. Thanks again.
  • spencer5spencer5 Member Posts: 1
    Yes I have had the same problem and unfortunately my warranty has just expired. The BMW dealership has not been able to find out why this keeps happening. I also have been having problems with the driver side door not wanting to close, the window keeps going up and down and the other night at 4:00 in the morning my car alarm went because the door isn't shutting tight. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to fix it. Help!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Happy to help; I think you will find the tool very useful. Let me know if you have any other questions.
  • dboy62dboy62 Member Posts: 3
    Hi everyone,

    Yes I am a newbie and the only reason I am on here is because I have a 2000 BMW 323i that is experiencing the same reverse problem like everyone is. I want to know what I am up against and looked on the internet and I found this forum. I know you "regulars" are saying, "yeah, what a coincidence." But I'd rather waste my time driving my BMW around town than sit here on this forum reading that everyone else has the same problem and me posting this message. I am 22, and I have been a BMW enthusiast since I was 15. My first car was a 96' BMW 318ti, my second was this 323i just purchased in April 05'. mileage 72000.

    I have the reverse problem without a doubt where replacing the transmission is the only solution. I'm going to fight for every dollar I can save from this. It is going to the dealer on Monday July 18th. I might have a connection there, but we'll see. I am taking the extra step as well. I am ready to contact bmwna, consumer affairs, and the nhtsa. I even wrote a small essay with copies of others having the same problem along with two copies from the nhtsa.

    wish me luck everyone
  • bmwnabmwna Member Posts: 32
    I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m so sorry to read of your frustration about this recurring problem with your air bag warning light. We want to make this right, and we’re are here to work with you and your BMW center. Please give us a call at (800) 831-1117 at your earliest convenience. Be sure to mention Reference #200520000610 so that we can help you more efficiently.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
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