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Best way to avoid it though. Check your brakes every so often to see how close that sensor is getting to the rotor and avoid the light coming on in the first place.
-Paul
-Paul
But, I haven't tried it..
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My tech figured it out after I posted. He had some wiring messed up. He's working on the engine cooling system and someone was in there before we got to it.
(also has HVAC trouble and a whole pile of other problems. The salesmen are crying in their beers on this one. Someone traded it in for an Equinox)
1. Any estimates on what typical annual maintenance costs would be for a 5-6 year old 3-series? I'ld plan on keeping it 5+ years, and would use it for a daily commute of about 30 busy suburban miles. I've read repeated references to the expensive maintenance of German vehicles and have always thought an Acura would be my best bet, although I love the styling of the previous gen 3-series. So what would a reaonsable annual budget be?
2. In Canada, BMW sold a base model 320 with a 168-hp engine. Anyone ever owned one of these? If so, how does it drive?
3. I have 2 toddlers and would ocassionally want to take them for a spin. Heard the backseats are too tight to position forward-facing child seats in them. Any thoughts?
For reference our primary car is a 2002 Honda Accord EX-V6 sedan (3 years and 45k with no surprises) and live in Toronto, Canada.
Thanks!
I know others have posted on this on their manual sedans, but I want to thank board members for their postings that allowed me to know what to look for. My car went in for its first "low mileage" oil change at one year and 10k miles. It had been "sputterring" during hard acceleration in 2nd gear as the rpm climbed through 4200-4300. My car always had a stable idle - only the acceleration stutter was evident.
The dealer replaced the faulty DISA valve and reprogrammed the DME iaw service measure 12-209-05.
RESULT: Smooth, flawless, wind-up acceleration throughout the rev band. .88 hours of BMW technician time and a great appreciation for my BMW dealer's service department and respect for my Service Advisor. I'm happy and enjoying my car much more.
It's easy to diagnose the symptoms of this in your manual transmission car. Get it moving in first, and then shift to second. Under full throttle, wind it out to 60 mph. If you feel a stutter/sputter as you pass through 4200-4300 rpm at 40-45 mph, you have a faulty valve. It should wind up smoothly. Mine would sputter around three times before it would pass through that point and accelerate to redline. SO much better now, the way it is supposed to be!
I had this problem just last week. My performance was fine when driving, so I suspected it was the exhaust. BMW replaced it (10 minute change for the exhaust CPS). But the part is about 120 or so (even online). I just hated getting stuck for $100.00 diagnostic fee that should be incorporated in the labor for the repair. The intake sensor is a bit trickier to get to, but there are writeups for it on the web.
I'm investing in a Bentley manual for my 2002 E46 and will be doing a LOT more on it myself. My tool and knowledgebases are both growing, so I feel more confident doing this type of work myself.
-Paul
Say after the warranty and intial free maintenance for new BMWs run out?
And also for routine maintenance like oil changes and tune ups?
I have an 03 325ci, 46,000 miles, Engine is running rough this morning, yellow "Service Engine Soon" light is on.
This happened previously at just over 40,000 and dealer replaced a spark plug which resolved the problem.
Since they charged me 120 Euros, I was wondering if I could/should do it myself this time.
Do I need any special tools? How long can I drive like this? Any precautions I should take?
I read on a prev post when I searched sparkplugs that they're supposed to last 100K miles, is that true? Could an underlying problem be causing the plugs to go prematurely? Granted I drive it fairly hard (Autobahn), but I thought that's what they're designed for...
Thanks,
Trevor
Good Luck
Sheggaw
1968 Verona 1600
'95 525i
'00 323Ci (no broken down)
I've noticed 2 problems with the car within the past week or so that I wonder if anyone has experienced. Accelerating from a complete stop results in the engine slipping about 75% of the time. It last for sometimes as long as 4-5 seconds. Also, when I remove my foot from the gas pedal but do not apply the brake, instead of coasting like my other BMW and every other automatic transmission car I have driven, there is a moderate but noticeable pull, similar to what would occur if I lightly applied the brakes.
I am going to take the vehicle in for service this week, but I'd like to know if anyone else has experience a similar problem.
thanks,
joe
I use one on my 3er and 5er and I've been very pleased with it.
TIA!
Exactly the same thing happened again in March 2005. BMW checked again and claimed they found a fault in the air mass sensor and replaced it.
The same thing happened again yesterday. BMW claimed to have replace the air mass sensor again, but I have basically lost all patience and faith in this car. I really like the car and would like to keep it if I can believe that the problem can be fixed. Has this happened to anyone here and can it really be fixed for once and for all? If it's fixable, what should I ask the dealer to do (I don't believe my dealership knows what the problem is)?
Does anybody else have this problem?
When the key is turned to start the engine, there is about a 1 second delay, and then the turnover is very slow. It isn't turning over as quickly, but that is only when it decides to turnover. If it turns over, it always starts. All the inside power works when the key is turned on. I just replaced the starter two years ago, as well. This has been going on for a couple of weeks, and just the other day I replaced all the spark plugs to see if this would remedy the problem. It seems that if can't get it to start, if I wait a few minutes and then try again it starts up.
Another problem I've been having, and I am wondering if the two have anything to do with each other, is when I'm at a stop and the car is idling, sometimes the car will rev up and down, up for a second, then down for a second, and this will continue until I take off again. It also does it if I am coasting without pressing on the accelerator. This car is at 93,000 miles, and I have noticed a decrease in acceleration/power as well. And that isn't even with the AC on.
Scheduled maintenance w/ dealer-yes, up until about 3 years ago. Oil change/oil filter is always changed on time.
Anybody want to shed some light?
Thanks.
-Paul
After having satellite, I have not bothered with AM or FM at all.
-Paul
Yes I am a newbie and the only reason I am on here is because I have a 2000 BMW 323i that is experiencing the same reverse problem like everyone is. I want to know what I am up against and looked on the internet and I found this forum. I know you "regulars" are saying, "yeah, what a coincidence." But I'd rather waste my time driving my BMW around town than sit here on this forum reading that everyone else has the same problem and me posting this message. I am 22, and I have been a BMW enthusiast since I was 15. My first car was a 96' BMW 318ti, my second was this 323i just purchased in April 05'. mileage 72000.
I have the reverse problem without a doubt where replacing the transmission is the only solution. I'm going to fight for every dollar I can save from this. It is going to the dealer on Monday July 18th. I might have a connection there, but we'll see. I am taking the extra step as well. I am ready to contact bmwna, consumer affairs, and the nhtsa. I even wrote a small essay with copies of others having the same problem along with two copies from the nhtsa.
wish me luck everyone
BMW NA Customer Relations