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While I like to do my own basic maintenance (changing fluids and brake pads) I know that this is most definitely NOT a do-it-yourself job, so I think I'm probably looking at a large number for that new top.
Any guidance as to ballpark cost for an installed new top on a '94? Thanks for the assistance.
MSH
The parts was $130 and they charged labor of 1.5 hours at $80/hour.
I paid approx $260 to get this done.
I am not going any whare with BMW
on this transmission issue (reverse gear problem),
and can you please reply how you resolved this
unfortunate problem.
Please read my former request:-
Hello everyone,
As it seems common, I’ve a reverse gear problem on my BMW 323i-2000,
and getting mixed messages from different BMW dealerships.
Some think it’s minor and some major Transmission problem.
I’ve also contacted BMW Canada to complain and, they seem
to be aware of the problem. They suggest I go to Dealership
gor service and let the manager contact them.
I am a bit worried, and can any one of you let me know how
you resolved this reverse gear problem. Money wise and
also the procedures. Did BMW pay part of the cost?
Thanks in Advance!
This is one of my pet peeves with current vehicles. They have all these systems to monitor and warn you about the operating condition of the car, but it seems that more than half the time a warning is diagnosed as a bad sensor! So apparently the engines are more reliable than the system that is supposed to be monitoring them. Seems like it should be the other way around.
I have a 01 330i SP/PP. I purchased this vehicle used about two months ago and since then have been trying to pinpoint a location in the backseat of the vehicle where a rattle is coming from. I had thought it might have been the back seats or cushions, so I’ve taken the back seat apart and found everything secure and sound (as well as $4.00!). Now I am wondering if it might be the ‘third-eye’ taillight in the rear window. The trim is secure, however when I tap the trim with my fingers it makes a rattle sound. I took the trim down and did not see anything loose. The pilar trim pieces (with the reading lamps) make the same sound, however I don't know how to remove them.
Anyone have any suggestions of other locations in the rear of the vehicle I might be able to check for rattles? I can’t seem to find this one and it’s riving me nuts!
The rattle only sounds when I go over a ‘rippled' or a very bad bumpy road. “We have bad roads here in Seattle”.
The rattle sounds rather like as if you rapidly tap your finger nail to your desktop. Thanks to all in advance for any suggestions!
Ximloe
My 325xi is breaking down. Just right after the 4 year warranty expires. Surprise.
I love the car, handling, acceleration, and have gotten used to it's looks. But I had a flat tire warning come on the other day, and drove cautiously at 45 MPH to my local dealer 10 miles away. The shock came when I was told that Run Flat Tires should not be repaired (according to BMW) because of damage to the tire sidewalls by driving on them with low tire pressure. Can you believe it? What good are they?
I would much rather have my spare tire & wheel, tire wrench and jack back so I could replace the tire myself, and get it repaired without the expense of buying a new tire whenever one goes flat..
These tires also ride harder than standard tires, which I'm sure you all know. So I was stuck with buying a new Run Flat Tire (which the dealer fortunately had in stock) at a price of $229.34 installed.
I might add that I checked with a local Bridgestone Tire Dealer, and he could have saved me $5.00, but it would have taken him two days to get it from the warehouse.
Run Flat Tires.....a step back, certainly not progress! :mad:
"Seems like it should be the other way around."
Are you sure you'd prefer the un-reliable engine over the faulty sensor?
how to put pressure on BMW to pay for the new transmission? (other than this, my car is in very good shape)
if BMW doesn't cover anything, is it advisable to go to a mechanic (not the dealer) and try to repair it, or replace it for a second-hand one?
Any other advice is welcome
Thanks
Replaced all 4 brakes and rotors at 20k miles last yr (under warrantee).
Now a yr later @45k miles (the 20k + another 25k highway miles), all 4 brakes and rotors need replacement again. (Warrantee for brakes ran out at 36k). I dont ride the brakes.
Is this what others experience?
Dealer says this is expected but im concerned this will turn into an unnecessarily expensive habit. Of all the cars ive driven in the past this is the 1st ive seen to go through rotors that fast. Now i know where all that brake dust comes from on the 325 models.
Though I like the 3 series a lot (minus how it handles in the snow) Im beginning to eye the audi convert now...
thanks
concerned bmw fan/owner.
Im in the process of lokin 4 a good/reliable garage in central nj/nyc
I sure hope BMW wises up and gets rid of the Run Flat Tires!
The tire sealant is designed to get you home, without changing the tire... on a non runflat....but, I don't think the tire is any good afterwards.. I think the only way to save a runflat tire, is to carry a spare, and change it when it goes flat..
I may be wrong... it happens daily..
regards,
kyfdx
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The failing transmission (at least in my case) was a ZF-5HP19 auto-step
I dropped the pan to have a look at the extent of the damage Here is what I found.
First I drained the fluid which was an opaque charcoal black but it did not smell burned.
Next I removed the pan I was shocked to find a 4” chunk of what once was a gear and several more ½” pieces but not enough to make up the entire gear.
Not being able to locate the remaining shards I called it a total loss due to the probability of further future damage even if rebuilt then put the pan back on feeling defeated.
My concern is that I don’t want to get another rebuilt ZF and have the same problem in another 40k.
My question is of the many that have received a new transmission have any experienced the issue again or has anyone successfully swapped a ZF for a GM?
Just wanna see if anyone had/has a similiar problem. I have a 325 Ci, 2004. Cylinder misfire occured 3 times, the fault was found in the system and bunch of other computer/electrical problems have been happening as well. I was told that the car can't be fixed and that I have a lemon car! Trying to find what's the best way to go with, ether hire a lawyer or try to deal with BMW North America although I already feel mistreated when I talk to them! Anyone if had similar problem please HELP!
Thanks a bunch!
Since BMW has taken into consideration of these "stiff" tires in designing the suspension, I don't think they will consider change to other more conventional tires shortly, unless there is outcry there from consumers.
Was it the dealer that told you that you had a lemon? End of last year, I dealt with my 2003 325i through a lemon law attorney. After learning that BMW was buying the car back, I met with the customer service manager at the dealership, her 1st question was why didn't I go directly to her (no one I dealt with told me she existed!). The attorney should not cost anything out of your pocket if you go that route but will be paid by BMW/dealership.
Go talk to the customer service manager at the dealership. If things don't seem right, then go to a lawyer.
Good luck
Good luck.
http://www.bmwusa.com
This will take you directly to the contact page:
BMW contact
Need some advices on 2002 325XI.
I'm about close to make a decision on 2002 325XI. The mileage is low (around 15K miles). The only thing that bother me is the long term maintenance. I heard ppl always complain about problems comes after the warranty. Also, will the 4WD cause a lot of problems in a long run? thanks.
You can compare the 2002 Bimmer to other similar cars also out of warranty (same age) and compare maintenance costs with say a Camry or Acura etc. etc.
It is very useful.
2 ques.
The vinyl piping surrounding the rear window of my black cloth top is beginning to pull away. What type of glue should I use and repair process.
Also the brown lining on the inside is falling out. Is it time for a new top. I have a black 328ica.
If replacement is eminent, who in Atlanta does a good cost effective job. Can they refurbish the top? Dealer is charging $3,000.
Please advise.
other than these things, top looks new.
If you enjoy driving, you'll love the BMW you are considering.
Anyone out there. Where is the stablizer link located? Is it possible that it was knocked loose while replacing the front brakes? TIA.
As for the coolant change, I don't think my plan covers it. But the parts should be covered for 4 years. Once again, I missed the deadline by 2 weeks. Once again neither the dealer nor BMW NA were willing to give me the grace period.
I will NOT buy another BMW, just by principle. As far as I'm concerned, they don't care once you bought the car. They think the car sells itself and hold their noses high. I've had enough of that. Audi or Mecedez next.
In general, I think the quality of service rests with the dealer's service Dept. rather than the brand of the vehicle.
Heck change the oil yourself. I can do it w/o even getting under the car by using a MityVac fluid extractor and buying the filter from BMW directly. I use Mobil 1 and do it every 7500 miles because I DO put a lot of miles on that car.
My 2002 325xi has 98,000 miles on it and I've only had a few minor issues with it:
Computer failure right after purchase - replaced and no problems since
Window regulators - replaced under warranty, now can do it myself next time.
Exhaust sensor bad - replaced.
Not bad.
My experiences with Mercedes (sales admittedly) have me thinking that they think they are the best and their service is not included in the price as far as I can remember, like BMW's is.
Audi is a bit better with service as it is included 4/50,000, but the dealership around here is a smaller dealership and if you need parts for ANYTHING, they'll probably have to order them - and they are more focussed on selling Beetles and Passats instead of A6's and A8's.
My BMW dealer in Cali was INCREDIBLE to me and treated me extremely well. The dealer here where I live now in Alabama has a less than stellar record with me at this point. So not all dealers are created equal.
-Paul
The car is with AT transmission and has around 56K miles. I live in California so I don't think morning temperature was an issue. Prior to this morning, there was not a slight symptom of this failure happening.
Is this a starter motor problem? I can't even see where is it located. If starter is in fact a problem, would you recommend to take the car to the dealership or can I just take the car to a local repair shop for replace/fix the starter? Closest BMW dealer is about 25 miles away.
Can other failures (like fuel injection system or some failure in the security systems) cause this problem? Or should I be concerned about some major problems in the drivetrain?
Your help and advice will be much appreciated.
could be any number of problems. I don't see why a regular shop can't diagnose something like this.
First you charge the battery, and clean the cables. Then check the starter by bypassing the ignition switch (use remote starter switch). Then if that's okay you have to look for things like automatic transmission neutral safety switch. Also various fuses, etc. Takes some patience but I bet the answer isn't too complicated once you get there.
One, I'd teach her what a tachometer is and how to use it as a shifting aid.
Two, I'd teach her how a clutch works (I can see her eyelids closing as you sit there at the kitchen table with two dinner plates). That way she knows what is going on as she works the pedal and the shift lever.
By using the tach she will never short-shift or over rev, and by knowing how a clutch works she won't ride on the clutch pedal or try to hold the car on a hill with the clutch----all clutch killing habits.
thanks
mike
So just watch your tach and shift before red-line each time. It's pretty simple. As for downshifting, you just have to experiment...the idea is that when you are say in 4th gear, you watch your tach and if it drops too low ("too low" is different say for your car than mine, which is a V8)...let's just say in your car 2,000 rpm is "too low",....then you downshift and you'll see the tach jump up to...oh maybe 3,300 or so....whatever...the idea is to use the tach to learn what is "too low" in any gear and what is "too high"...personally, if you are over 4,000 rpm in any gear, downshifting gets tricky, as you'll run way up over 5,000...which is okay for a BMW certainly but you want to avoid what we call "compression braking"....where you downshift at a high rpm and the engine braking is severe.
I never recommend downshifting to "brake" a car....if you have a red light or stop sign or a stopped car in front of you, don't be downshifting to slow the car down. Downshifting is to gain advantage for some purpose
So don't pick a low gear unless you are going to DO something with it.