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As for actual break-in events; older engines required a “Non-Ashless Dispersant Oil” for break-in. That oil would not hold combustion byproducts (mainly carbon) in suspension, thus allowing said byproducts to collect around the rings and stabilize them. The term for this is called “Seating the Rings”. Given that Synthetic oil typically keeps internal engine parts very clean, one can see why Synthetic oil was not used during break in. While I do not know for sure, my guess is that BMW (and other manufacturers that use Synthetic as the factory fill) has engineered their piston assembly such that the rings are deemed to be seated as soon as the piston assembly is punched into the cylinder, thus eliminating the “ring seating” step.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I believe that it is just possible that BMW engineers spent the effort to methodically study the subject and actually determined the safe oil service interval. My new 330xi is projecting the first service at about 24,000 km, about 50% more than the older model. The new car uses synthetic oil whereas the old one had a built-in oil cooler. I am assuming that the BMW engineers know what they are doing and will follow the service schedule without the slightest worry.
Great, I will be careful for the first 1250 miles. As per the factory break-in, I am very sure it happens for the new engines. The BMW salesman told me about it first. Then two independent techs also confirmed it.
hi 325i87,
Your experience is very soothing for me. As I have the modernized verion of your same engine, I feel more confident that these new ones will hold on at least as long as yours. If you don't mind, would you mention your regular maintenance items to keep it running smooth ?
PN, San Jose, CA
2002 325 Conv.
16k: oil service
32k: inspection I
48k: oil service
64k: inspection II
etc
The only exceptional precaution I took for a period of time was to ask them to change the air filter every inspection (32k) because I was driving a lot on dusty gravel roads. I also used 60/40 antifreeze/water mix because I was travelling to places with occasional weather below -40.
I have done my share of repairing cars and equipment in my days, but on that car I did very little service/repair myself. Here are two items I remember below.
On that particular model, the service interval/tach/odometer circuit had back-up NiCd batteries that went bad after 6-7 years causing the service lights and eventually other instrument cluster functions to act up. I took the cluster apart, pulled out the circuit card and replaced (soldered in) the batteries myself instead of forking out for a complete new circuit card.
One time, the engine suddenly started to sound really rough. I discovered it was due to one spark plug shorting when hot. I bought and installed a new set of spark plugs and that was the end of it.
It also made me a little nervous about the computer making calculations about when I should have my oil changed, but the computer is using the correct transient engine events to determine the interval (cold starts, acceleration and driving conditions).
I can safely say that my engine runs exactly the same (if not better) than it did when new. I'm not too worried about the oil interval anymore.
Also...oil changes at every 3k miles are completely unnecessary, given the amount of synthetics put into oils today (regardless of driving style). Back in the 60's or 70's, maybe, but not now. 5k miles is debatable. BMW uses a very high amount of synthetic in their oil, and frankly I believe the typical 15k mile interval.
I don't really drive mine all that hard, but I do notice on my occasional 2/3/4 th gear redline shift and cross 120 mph, the interval will drop a bit faster.
P.S. Don't buy Volkwagen!!!
Have you run an engine for 6-7 years with 3k mile oil changes? If you have and the engine didn't fail, you probably could have used a larger interval and saved some money. I've used 5k mile intervals with no problems myself.
My experience with filters (I work for an engine filter manufacturer) is that filters don't stop filtering when they reach capacity, the restriction goes up. A filter actually lets through more sludge when it's new vs. after some of the larger flow paths have filled up. In other words, changing a filter too frequently is more detrimental than changing it at recommended intervals.
Bottom line, I'm confident that BMW has properly sized the oil filter and done accelerated testing to verify their change intervals. I'm certain they don't want engines failing left and right in 5 years.
-Murray
After a short while, the car would kind of jerk forward a little and it would be fine again. A bit later, same thing. No warning lights or the dreaded "Check Engine Light" came on.
Wonder if I should be driving the car, even to the dealership (about 2 miles away)?
First service appointment I could get was Monday, but they have no clue what this could be. Anyone have this experience or have a clue??
My car is a 1997 328i, which I bought as a CPO from a local dealer. My check engine light came on last week. I took the car to an independent BMW specialty shop (the dealer is running his usual 28 day wait for an appointment). He ran the codes, and said it indicated that the air pump was bad, as well as a potential oxygen sensor as well. The fuel mixture was off too, he said. Since it is still under warranty, he suggested I return to the dealer.
My dealer ran the codes and reported only that the secondary air pump was reporting bad. They reset the light, and said to drive it and see if the light came back on, and bring it in if it does.
This same dealer replaced the secondary air pump this past July, BTW. My concern: my independent guy says that I risk doing expensive damage to the car if I drive it with a faulty air pump. He said something about damaging the catalytic convertor due to the fuel mixture, as well as other potential failures.
So ...
Can I drive this until the light comes back on, or should I insist now that the dealer replace it? Any advice is most appreciated.
This may be a little too late for a reply. But I have read users having exact same problem ( power loss ) int the bimmer.org's E46 forum. Please visit that site and they will have plenty to tell you about. Dealers must know by now.
Not sure if its the thermostat/fan problem or the accelerator pedal/actuator issue.
good luck
2002 325 Conv.
-nobee
Anyway, what should I do? It's fairly loud I can hear it inside the car with the stereo on and I see people turn their heads.
-nobee
I need advice on what steps I may take or what other options I have, my car (325i, 2001, 15000 miles) has been in the dealership service station three times since september 2001. The thermostat was replaced twice and then the air flow meter and air sensor were replaced the last time. I have the car scheduled tomorrow for the same problem "Service Engine Soon" inidicator is ON which makes it the fourth time in 5 months. I am getting frustrated, this is not only affecting my schedule but also my confidence in this car. Would there be a limit as to how many times a the dealership will attempt to fix the problem and if it cannot be fixed, the whole system causing the problem would be replaced or the car will be classified as a lemon? Please advise.
And if you haven't contacted BMWUSA by now, get moving on that. Demand that the dealer's service dept get you in contact with the regional service rep, or whatever BMW is calling them these days. Get into your warranty and owner's booklet and check on the procedure for going after service and grievance problems. There should be a regional number to call to get help.
2) Sticky accelerator pedal from day one and it gets worse when the interior of the car warms up. Dealer had never heard of this occurring before!
3) Right rear of car sat 1/2" lower than left. Dealer replaced one spring, had no effect, after work was done rear suspension started making noises over bumps that previously didn't cause any noises.
4) During hard acceleration the clutch (manual tran) squeals loudly with each gear engagement. Dealer replaced A/C belt but had no effect. This has occurred from about 2000mi (break in period).
5)Window squeaks and rattles have been gradually increasing.
6)During cold weather the stereo display becomes distorted with a strange pattern that resembles a circuit board, this goes away as the interior warms up.
7)Windshield is optically distorted on the lower passenger side.
Interesting that I haven't experienced many of the other problems discussed on this forum.
I have not agressively persued most of these issues with my dealer because I have been recovering from heart surgery and I feel the clueless service department doesn't have the capability or desire to address these problems anyway.
Despite all of this I still think the car is a blast to drive, and every time I pull into my garage and turn off the engine I think to myself, that was a hell of a lot of fun. I knew what I was getting into when I bought this car anyway, from reading all the BMW forums, great fun to drive but don't expect top notch reliability or service. Having owned all Japanese cars all my life I had a burning curiosity to see what it would be like to own a German car. It's about what I expected.
How do I reset the "brake ligning" light? Do I have to take it to the dealer or is there an easier way?
My wife's Nubira has a very loud fuel pump noise (it has about 5000 miles on the odometer). I hear it when I start the car, then it cuts off.
Some pumps must be louder than the others. I would not worry about it if you are certain that the noise is from the fuel pump.
My dealer and a specialized BMW garage have both looked at it and said there's nothing wrong back there. Does anyone have some info about this.
Thanks,
-nobee
SB 33-02-00 is axle whine of the E46 chassis.
SB 24-09-98 is for the transmission clunk associated with the GM5 automatic transmission.
Does anyone know why BMW recommends high viscosity oil? What is so special ( or outdated) about 92 2.5L engine?
Fowvay, what is your opinion?
-nobee
For what it matters, I love this car and it's performance in all manners, and will likely buy another BMW in the future unless they really loose it in Munich like they have in Detroit.
-nobee
Player73
Any claims beyond that are just smoke, IMHO. Over the last (almost) four years, I have communicated with and read the posts of literally hundreds of E46 owners, and you are the first I have heard to have such problems. Were it that I was in your shoes, I would start exploring the "Lemon Laws" in your state, and let your dealership know that you are doing so. The fact is, EVERY manufacturer from Trabant to Lexus builds a "Lemon" or two from time to time (some more than others).
Let us know how this turns out.
Best Regards,
Shipo
car. Due to the high miles, I'm obviously concerned about the state of the engine and other major systems (electrical, suspension,etc.). The seller has the records to show that the car has been getting regular oil changes and tune ups and I'm hoping to have a mechanic look at this car before I buy it but.....is there anything symptomatic of these engines that I need to be wary of? How many miles can you get out of the 325i and/or it's engine? Timing belt or timing chain? If belt, how often does it need to be changed? Every 60K? Thanks in advance for the advice.
I DID NOT SAY that everyone who drives a domestic car is a moron.
What I DID SAY was that anyone who thinks that merely changing the motor oil and plugs at regular intervals constitutes good automotive maintenance is a moron- and I stand by that characterization.
Lighten up, Francis...