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According to my 2000 Maxima SE warranty book the seatbelt warranty is lifetime.
According to my 2003 Murano SE warranty book the seatbelt warranty is 120 months (unlimited miles).
Anyone know when they dropped the lifetime (obviously either in 2001-2002)and went to the 10 years on the seatbelts?
This discussion's title will soon change to "Nissan Maxima Owners: Problems & Solutions" and it will reside in the Maxima Owners Club. However, it will also still be here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this topic now, the change should not affect that.
If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.
I am trying to replace the power antenna in my 1997 Maxima SE (car-wash accident!!!). My dealer wants me to pay $100 for the labor but I think I should be able to do it. I am trying to get suggestions and tips on how to replace it.
Does anyone have a copy of the repair manual, maybe you can fax or e-mail that page to me?
I thank you in advance for any help.
You first remove the antenna mast retaining nut with an antenna tool or snap ring pliers (recommend protecting the paint around the antenna to prevent scratching). Then remove the antenna cover inside the trunk by prying out plastic clips. Disconnect the electrical connector and remove the motor retaining screws.
It is a good idea to disconnect the negative battery cable before starting this work.
The heating steering wheel gets very hot and stops heating after about 5 minutes. The orange light on the switch continues to stay lit and shuts off after about 30 minutes (as stated in the manual).
When I push the ECON button to turn the heat on, the fan speed is staying at "1" even though the car is cold. It does not adjust to the appropriate automatic speed unless I fiddle with the other settings, e.g., turn defrost or AUTO on then go back to ECON.
If anyone else has experienced either of these, please let me know how they were resolved.
Once you leave the auto Hvac setting, the system has been engineered to allow you complete control, including where the air is directed and the fan speed.
Auto means the car runs everything, you just choose the temp.
Anything other than manual, your responsible for choosing the way you want it to operate.
Nissan has had virtually the exact same auto Hvac system in production (operation and control wise) since it debuted on the 1995 Maxima in late 1994.
I have it on a 95 Maxima GLE, a 00 Maxima SE, and on a 03 Murano.
I just set it and forget it.
As far as the heated steering wheel goes, I've no experience with them but it sounds as if it may be defective. Aren't you still under warranty?
Isnt the econ setting for use with A/C?
What would the econ setting do when used for heating(not defrosting)when other resources(beyond beyond fan/blower pulling heat from the engine)are not used?
As to the econ setting, I believe its main function is to provide air circulation plus heat in the winter. You may also use it to "cool" down the car's inside temp., but its cooling effective is limited to the outside temp. When you turn on the econ setting in the winter, the fan does not go to high because, I believe, it is designed to maintain engine temp first, and until the engine is warm enough, the fan does not automatically move to a higher speed. Once the inside car temp reaches your desired setting, the fan speed (as well as the vents) will be regulated automatically to maintain that setting.
I have auto climate control in both my 96 GLE and 03 GLE. The only difference I find is that in the 96 GLE, the recirculate button does not activate the dehumify function of the A/C, but so with the 03 GLE. Does anyone share my experience?
That sounds odd...I havent tried it
Since recirc is not real helpful when defrosting/dehumidifying, I just manually set it where I want it.
1. If heating is required (determined by what temp you set it to), the system will not bring the fan speed up until there is heat in the heater core. Except when you press the defrost button. Then it runs the fans and A/C to blow dry air on the windshield and side windows. It's still cold air, but dry air is very effective. The A/C drys the air by the way.
2. The "Econ" mode is really for summer - it turns off the A/C, when you just want the system to blow air from outside or even just recirc. inside air, but not have the A/C going on and off. Obviously, if it's too hot outside the fan speed will just continue to increase to maximum. If you want the fan to come on when there is no heat, you have to select "Man" mode (which is selected automatically if you start to mess with the controls).
Oh, and if Nissan is reading ;-), please!!! put in heated steering wheels first. They are needed more than heated seats. Hard to drive with big mits on. My hands get very cold in my Pathfinder LE (no heated steering wheel option). Probably not needed in the southern US, but up here in Canada, when it's winter (now) it's often below -10 C (-16 last week, warm now at +3 C).
Blh, the recir. button, from my understanding, is supposed to be used when you don't want outside air come into the cabin (such as when the truck in front of you is giving out noxious fumes) or you want to accelerate the cooling in the summer or the heating in the winter. I am just surprised that the recir button in my 03 GLE activates the dehumification function.
For defrosting or dehumidifying, I simply press the defrost/dehumify button because that is its function!
Its really amazing how no one understands this button when switching from a domestic to Japanese car. It basically the same as "MAX A/C" that the domestics used to have. I like it better because you can still choose where the air comes out.
As for Recirc. Yes it does turn on the dehumidification function, because the humidity will build up inside as no fresh air is coming in to keep it at a reasonable level. We humans exude lots of water ;-). This is why the windows will fog in the winter as well. I never use recirc., but then I live in a climate where "max. A/C" is never needed. brrrr!
On the Infiniti Q, recirculate [closed loop] vs fresh air drops the center vent temperature 3-4F [80% 75F inside air plus 20% 95F outside air feeding the evaporator]. Simple math problem measure the input/otuput air temperatures in both mode and calculate % of mix. Obviously the differences in humidity will tilt the answer.
The antenna is in the glass so that's not it.
I have the same vehicle and the service manual too. There really isn't anything mechanical that would make a noise after the car is turned off as that kills all the power.
Any other symptoms?
Does the level of gas in the tank relate in any way to when the noise occurs? The fuel pump is in the tank and needs to be kept cool and lubricated (by keeping gas in the tank).
Fuel pump, maybe?
I took it to the nearby dealer twice. Both times, the car decided to behave itself and did not make any noise after several tries while there. As soon as I got home, it happened again.
The car is otherwise running fine. p100, I hope you are right that there is nothing to worry about. Did the dealer say why the fuel pump of your truck would make such noice?
I´m quite new on this forum, and I found it when looking for a solution for my Maxima J30 -92 (Automatic transaxle), now approx 164000 miles.
I had not ever had any problem with this nice machine until recently. It started to stall and choke. After been stalling for a while I searched the web, since I was by now tired to talk to the mostly incompetent Nissan workshop personnel. And actually this page helped me somewhat. At least I could rule out what my problem was not, and now it is fixed. I live in Sweden, but the Swedish version of Maxima is very similar to the Canadian versions, so hopefully this will help some of you with similar problems.
So - like a good doctor we must first come up with a diagnosis. The only leads to a proper diagnosis is checking out symptoms and make some probing.
First of all, when reading through all stalling related mesages including possible solutions, we can find out that stalling can have many causes. Therefore, the way your car stalls is crucial in order to get it fixed.
My symptoms were these:
1: Sudden loss of power - engine dies, especially when slowing down or at a red light stop.
2: Ocurred only with well warmed engine.
3: Ocurred mostly with shut throttle (idle)
4: Ocurred now and then during highway driving - need to stop for a minute and shut engine down then restart (just like Windows)
5:When the problem occurrs, the idle speed drops down to appr 500 RPM. If not just dying then and when trying to give some throttle, the engine may reach 2000 RPM, but not more, and then starts do undulate rapidly between 1500-2000 rpm. Finally it dies.
6: If shutting engine down for a minute or two, it would work just fine again.
7: Engine seems to run perfectly between the ocurrences of this problem.
What to do?
Well - if your symptoms does not look like mine, you may have another problem.
In this case I checked almost everything related to fuel, exhaust, air and ignition. The Air Flow Meter (MAF) looked and measured normally. But it was the MAF it had a damage and the signal to the ECU was not 100% good. I bought a used MAF for appr $ 150 and replaced the faulty one, and - voila!
It could hence be noticed that a faulty MAF not always present the fault very clearly. It is hard to detect. But some Nissan guys suggested this due to the symptoms (they did not even charge me for taking a look at the problem and a they also did a test drive, checked fuel pressure, adjusted the throttle valve sensor etc. What Good Guys!))
This particular problem may start with slight lack of power, and that will affect the automatic tranny as well - it will shift gears early. It is anyway a good idea to clean the throttle house, check the distributor and rotor and to check the throttle angle sensor when dealing with this kind of problem.
Good Luck to you all!
The RPM at 60 mph indicates that your tranny runs on the third gear. 2300 rpm indicates the OD gear.
I assume that you have a well warmed engine and tranny when this problem ocurrs, and that the road is levelled (no uphill driving). Your gearshifting to OD semms to work fine since it happens when you release the pedal. In cold conditions, the OD will not operate until the tranny temperature is high enough.
Problems of this kind happens when the torque converter dirtributes less torque than expected for the automatic gearbox. I may have some different reasons:
The most probable:
The problem seems to me be of an oil level character, probably low level of transmission fluid, or (even worse) wrong type of ATF fluid. Be first of all sure that the tranny have the correct fluid at correct level. It is worth the money to take it to a Nissan workshop and let then do the change since it is quite hard to determine the correct oil level on the dipstick. If your problem remains, the tranny may not be properly adjusted during the rebuild and that is an internal tranny problem.
Other probable causes, to rule out:
Also, an engine not delivering the right power (torque) to the tranny may result in this problem.
If you feel like your engine lacks some power (could be as little as 10% below specifications) it will affect the tranny operation.
The ECU and the A/T-box controlling the gearshifting are interlinked, and the fault may also be here. Let your Nissan dealer check the ECU for any error code regarding the A/T control box, and the ECU for any malfunction.
Regards
Viciente
I will most definitely bring the car to a Nissan dealer. I'm hoping that its an oil level or type problem. I will also have them check the ECU regarding A/T control box.
I will post the followup to this issue. Once again thank you.
Regards
Abel
For the 4th and 5th gen Maxima, it is important that you use a premium grade gas (i.e. 91 or greater octane). Using premium gas is not for increasing performance (not directly) or for giving you extra horsepower. What it does for you is to prevent detonation or pre-ignition. Detonation means that the fuel and air mixture ignite at the wrong time due to the high compression and heat. This is VERY bad for the engine. The effects of detonation is cumulative, meaning the damage adds up. Higher octane gas will be more resistant to detonation and allow your engine to run as intended.
-What about my knock sensor, doesn't it prevent detonation?
The knock sensor was designed to detect detonation/pinging/knock in you engine. When it detects a ping, the ECU will retard (pull back) the ignition timing to prevent further knocking. You may be asking then why can't I use 87 octane gas since there is this knock sensor. Two main reason: 1) performance will be impacted when the timing is retarded and 2) When the knock sensor does its thing, that means there has already been some knocking that occurred. Remember the effects of detonation/knocking is cumulative. It is possible that using low grade gas may not cause any problems, but remember it does not take that many detonations to break your engine.
So, stick to the good stuff...
The sticker suggests that premium is only required to get performance, not a critical engine saving function. As it was a rental, I didn't splurge.
However, I am planning on buying my own Maxima next year and would like to know ahead of time if it requires premium. I had a friend buy a Pathfinder without realizing it took premium gas and he wasn't very happy about this discovery.
What does the owners manual say?
Personally, I use premium in my '02 since it's what the manufacturer recommends. I figure they know their engine. If it could run just as well on regular then that's what they'd recommend since it would increase the marketability of their car.
I bought a used Nissan Maxima 01 from a dealer sometime back. They told me they would change the title and send me necessary documents. However, according to them, before they could file it with the DPS/DMV, there was a fire at the dealership and the title got destroyed. Now, the dealer claims to be in court (as the car title was'nt apparently changed from the earlier party he bought it from) to get a new title issued.
Now, my registration sticker is expired and I want to get it renewed and get my title as its been several months since I paid the dealer for the car. I would appreciate it if you could advise me on what can I do. I paid the dealer by check, so I can prove I've paid him the money.
My 2cents
A sensor would be if it ran crappy or would turn fine but not start.
Check the o2 sensor, they have a history of wearing out on these engines.
DD
Does the shop your using even have a service manual for the Nissan or a code reader to pick up the OBD1 code that is thrown when there is a problem?
Try a Nissan dealer.