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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • morehpmorehp Posts: 30
    The majority of the times when my CEL would come on, it was an 02 sensor, although one of the times it was BOTH an O2 sensor and a knock sensor.

    The 02 sensors on these cars are indeed disposible, it would seem. Good luck.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 3,017
    If you consider a component that lasts over 100,000 miles to be disposable, I guess so. /emo_smiley.gif
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • suttonj01suttonj01 Posts: 2
    Anyone have a good guess?
    I have a 99 Max with 95k. I just failed Ma emissions testing with three error codes. I looked the code descriptions up and wondering if anyone might have an idea of what I might be looking at. I knew I might have a problem before with my service engine soon light coming on.
    p0450 - EVAP system pressure sensor or circute failure
    p1444 EVAP canister purge volume control valve or circuit fault
    p1446 - EVAP canister vent control valve closed.

    Thanks for any help.
  • reddiva24reddiva24 Posts: 3
    Im currently going thru the exact same problem with my 95 Nissan MaximamGLE. Its been spitting out all my cds and says CD ERR. Its been fustrating and I was wondering if you found a solution to the problem yet or did you have to replace the cd player all together. If you did have to replace it, was it difficult? I have another cd player on hand and was wondering if it was a difficult task.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    You have a problem with the evaporative emissions system, that is what those codes are telling you. The systems are supposed to trap gas vapors that build up in the gas tank and if my memory is correct it routes it to either back into the tank from the canister or it gets burned in the engine, and that eliminates the unburned hydrocarbons from being released like if you had a open cup of fuel and let it evaporate.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    The reason I and others have complained about the maxima O2 sensors is that they burn up. One of mine (the car has 3 that I know of) went out when it was still under warranty, and others have had them go about every 30-40k miles. In contrast, I had a Dodge Shadow which went 140k miles and never needed it replaced. I eventually replaced it out of guilt that it was too old to work well. The fact that the VQ engine needs frequent 02 sensors is an issue, however minor it is depends on your perspective. Otherwise, my '00 has been pretty decent except for the usual issues of paint, rattles, etc.

  • dennis10dennis10 Posts: 2
    Have a 2002 maxima SE with 6-speed manual at 17,000 miles.Recently began to hear a howl or whine when the clutch pedal is about engage.Any ideas ?
  • Im not sure if I have similar problems to alphadog.
    1) Car stalls at lights 2) Jerks when revs are pushed to 5000 3) seems to have lost power and accelleration. A "diagnostics" turned up nothing. Mechanic suggested I may have a fuelpump problem
    Any thoughts?
    Celticvoyager :sick: nissan maxima 2000 se manual
  • mastjmastj Posts: 14

    From what I've read, there seems to be alot of problems with the '04's and '05's.

    I have an '05 SE that I've had for 4 months now. I love the styling, ride quality and interior space of the Max. However, the whole drivetrain could be much smoother, especially shifts during light acceleration. The car is also very noisy over sand and salt on roads. I've also had the "hard start" problem that the dealer has been unable to fix despite several TSB's on the issue.

    Its hard to judge whether the new Max has more problems than other cars, but overall, after owning Buicks for the past 14 years, the Max is a disappointment (other than styling). We'll see how it does long term.

    Good luck making your decision!!!

  • 92max192max1 Posts: 4
    Does your Max have a BOSE system. If so the systems from that year and the ones before that all have problems. I have a 1992 Maxima SE and mine wont play CD's period. It's a wiring problem that I haven't had the time to figure out so I'm not worried about it. Look around on the internet and see what you can find.
  • 92max192max1 Posts: 4
    If it stall's when you hit the breaks, check the Idle Air Control Motor just below the throttle body. That should solve you problem.
  • 92max192max1 Posts: 4
    Idle Air Control motor just below the throttle body. Replace it and see if it solves the problem
  • shureeshuree Posts: 2
    Hi folks! Gonna try this one more time. I have a 1990 Nissan Maxima. Once the car gets warm and you stop somewhere and shut it off, it won;t start again unless you hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor. I have had this to 2 different shops on diagnostics and they cant find anything. The last place said to take it to a dealer, but the nearest one is 80 miles away and today they said they couldnt do anythign since its 15 years old. This car has recently gotten 2 new fuel injectors, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, starter & battery. I only have one more dealer to contact and they are an hour and a half away. Anone got an idea??? Thanks! :mad: :(
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    Could be the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature sensor)? If it incorrectly tells the ECM that the engine is cold, when it's actually warm, it may produce a mixture that is too rich. Holding the gas pedal down is the recommended way of starting a flooded engine. Is your Check Engine light on? It may be telling you something. If not, it's still possible for ECTS to be sending the wrong information. It's fairly easy to check with an ohmmeter, but you need to search the web (try for that information.
  • 92max192max1 Posts: 4
    It could be that, but It almost sounds like you have a bad Idle Air Control Motor. I'm not to sure where it is on that model year, but the motors are usually under the throttle body.
  • beanctrbeanctr Posts: 99

    I have the same problem with my 02 SE 6-Speed. I believe the problem is related to the clutch disk. You may need to get it replaced in order to eliminate the noise. I could never get my car to duplicate the noise at the dealership while it was under warranty. Now that I am at 68,000 miles, it does it much more frequently, although not enough to drive me crazy. Here's a link that explains more about the problem.
  • swschultswschult Posts: 3
    I'd tighten (or replace) the gas cap, first. We had error codes once and after the dealer had run expensive diagnostics, the culprit was determined to be a poor seal on the gas cap. So we ended up paying around $100 for a $10 gas cap. Now, when lights come on, that's the first thing we check. Another very likely possibility: you probably know that O2 sensors on this vehicle are its Achilles Heel, and we've replaced at least four on ours, and we have < 60,000 miles on it. Good luck.
  • aceman1aceman1 Posts: 1
    I too have a 2001 maxima se loaded with 66,000 miles. I had the SES light come on about 3 weeks ago. Thinking it was the gas cap, I waited before taking it to my dad's mechanic. Took it an he told me that one of the Bank2 sensors was lazy and too call a Nissan dealership to see if this is covered under warantee. I called 2 dealerships and one told me it might be but I'd have to bring it in. The other told me it was not covered and it would cost $350. I took it to my dad's mechanic and he replaced both of the Bank 2 sensors. One was definitly faulty and the other one was not performing to specs. He told me he had a hard time installing the Bank2 sensors since the cableing runs from the engine compartment to the catalyc converter. Got the job done for $320
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    ">I havent been able to go to a shop to have it checked out yet...I have another head unit as well...I'm not sure how difficult it is to replace, but I am not planning to do it myself...(I have 2 subs and an amp and dont want to play the wiring game... ;) ...but if I find out the problem and solution I'll be sure to post it and let you know...
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    I am still having the same problem... my car kinda shakes and vibrates... my CES light is permanently on now... it starts to flash if I go over 40 mph and the shaking gets worse... I have taken it to Tires Plus over 6 times now and they were worthless. They told me to take it to the dealer, so if you guys dont have any suggestions... I guess that's what I'll do.
  • dum1dum1 Posts: 2
    First, the red indicator light should come on whenever you press one of the 3 buttons. Second, you can clear all channels by holding down both outside buttons (#1 and #3) until the red light begins to flash rapidly (approx. 20 secs). Then release both buttons. Third, select your favorite button by pressing once. Fourth, hold your hand-held transmitter against the bottom of the HomeLink surface so you can still see the red indicator light. Fifth, press your favorite button again until the red light flashes slowly. Don't release the button. Continue holding and press the hand-held transmitter simultaneously until the red light of the HomeLink flashes rapidly. Finally, release both buttons. The rapid flashing means a succesful job!
  • dum1dum1 Posts: 2
    My 99 Maxima has 65,000 miles and was running great until last January 2005. I had in December new spark plugs and gas filter installed. Then, late January, I started to get unsteady idles. After the car had warmed up, I would stop 5 minutes to get into a store and then start the car again, but the RPM would go up to 3000 RPM and stick there for about 5 seconds to finally stabilize to 750. Now that the weather got warmer, that doesn't happen often, however the car does have idle problems at around 1300 RPM and tends to get stuck there. The dealer changed the knock sensor, the celenoids (and its resistance) and cleaned up the "wisekit" (can't tell if it's the right spelling). Since then, nothing has really changed and I'm desperate. Can anyone help???
  • Run out of fuel and cannot seem to get the engine to start again? We primmed it where the air filter is, but it started up, but then died almost immediately?
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    There is a fuel injection test port on the fuel rail, it looks like a tire valve stem although it is metal. With ignition "ON", remove cover and push the center valve, this will release everything from the fuel pump up to the engine and when fuel starts to come out, release and then crank the motor some. That should work.

  • hound97hound97 Posts: 22
    Had one of the rear oxygen sensors replaced last Thursday, SES light came back on on Sunday, back to the dealer again today where they told me the other rear sensor needs to be replaced. I wonder if they replaced the wrong one? At $270 bucks a pop it has been an expensive week. This car is not living up to my expectations. I bought it as a car I'd keep for 10 years, but I can't see myself keeping it another month. It is not the Maxima of days gone by. I just have this "feeling" that it's going to turn into a money bit even though I only have 54K miles. I thought a Maxima should be just broken in with that mileage.
  • bondeygr8bondeygr8 Posts: 5
    I have following queries for 05 Maxima SL model. I am new to world of vehicles. So few of my questions might be very basic.

    1) When I start my car, engine RPM goes to 2500. I heard from somebody that I shall wait till the RPM of engine reduces to 1000 before I drive the car. Is it true? Is it applicable for old cars only?

    2) When I start the car and switch on Steering or Heated Seats, does it affect car Battery? Due to such usage will it reduce the battery life?

    3) Servicing... what happens during 1st, 2nd servicing normally? What shall I check or ask the mechanic to check?

    4) Can I use Synthetic oil in my 05 Maxima? Is it useful?

    5) Can I set average (miles/galon) using the display on the dashboard?

    thanks in advance for the help
  • max1991max1991 Posts: 1
    I just got a 1991 Maxima. The electronic dashboard indicators work sometimes. I have no indicator for speed fuel or temp or rpm. The com on then go off. Am\nyone know what i can do. :confuse:
  • I usually use the remote to lock the car. But last night I forgot to lock it after exiting and I was shocked to find out this morning the doors were not locked. I felt lucky since I live in NYC.

    I assumed before that the doors will auto lock after certain period of time. The manual said something about the autolock and I found later that was applied to the situation when you unlock the door by remote but do not open the door since, the door will autolock within, say, 1 minute. But if you simply close the door after exiting the car and do not press the keyfob, then the car won't autolock (just like what happened to me last night). I DO want the car to be able to autolock by itself and I don't know whether Maxima can have such function as I know quite some other cars have it. I cannot find it out from manual and some people in the forum said yes about this autolocking.

    Does someone has similiar experience or could someone tell me some info about this?

  • terrynterryn Posts: 2
    1997 Maxima stalls immediately after starting. Does this a couple of times until I pump the gas pedal. Once I get it started it runs fine. Any ideas?
  • reddiva24reddiva24 Posts: 3

    Being that it doesnt look like Ill be able to buy a dash kit, wire harness and all the other nameless requirements, as well as someone to install it ( my brother wont apparently fool with a Bose system, I have been toying with the issue of going to a junk yard and finding another one. I cant bear to listen to the radio much longer and I know my brother can installcan at least install a factory one. What do you guys tthin?.
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