Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair
My '92 Nissan Maxima SE automatic has been stalling frequently and various mechanics are unable to determine the problem.
-The situation: Car stalls at a red light while engaged in drive. If it is shifted into neutral it will not stall, however the tachometer will jump. Typically, (but not exclusively) this problem occurs when I have been driving at low speeds. Additionally, the car may sputter and knock while in city traffic. To alleviate this I must take my foot off of the accelerator and then depress it again. If I try to "gas it" through the problem it will only keep sputtering.
-Suggestions by mechanics: Clogged fuel lines (checked, not the problem), Fuel pump (checked and replaced, not the problem), Electrical ( one mechanic suggested replacing the engine harness wires. Costs about $1000).
Does anyone have a suggestion?
-The situation: Car stalls at a red light while engaged in drive. If it is shifted into neutral it will not stall, however the tachometer will jump. Typically, (but not exclusively) this problem occurs when I have been driving at low speeds. Additionally, the car may sputter and knock while in city traffic. To alleviate this I must take my foot off of the accelerator and then depress it again. If I try to "gas it" through the problem it will only keep sputtering.
-Suggestions by mechanics: Clogged fuel lines (checked, not the problem), Fuel pump (checked and replaced, not the problem), Electrical ( one mechanic suggested replacing the engine harness wires. Costs about $1000).
Does anyone have a suggestion?
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I did that a couple of times on my sentra and altima. Don't worry.
Jerry
Joe
I use Pure One.Better anti backflow valve. No more clatter on cold start up.
Thanks
since the car had about 70,000kms the problem
started. they replaced the starter 2 or 3 times
under warranty. and it never fixed anything. and they never seemed to understand that.
unfortunatly i have been busy for a while....the car has 175,000kms on it and the problem is still there. my extended warranty is over.
when you i turn the key i don't get ANY response
try again ... same......keep holding it and the car starts but the rpm drops and engine shuts off if i don't force the engine to be over 3000rpms.
My 'soon service engine' light indicator on the front panel lights up.
I had my mechanic check out my car, including engine, and he told me that everything was fine. Passed inspection 1st time also.
Does this pose a serious problem, is it electrical, or what?
thanks.
I have the original service manual, but it doesn't give part numbers.....haven't given up, bec I want to fix it so that I can sell it...it's a low mileage lovely...
Any one know an internet site that may have these parts ?
Thanks for your time !
Anyway. it is still going great except for an intermittent problem for
the last couple years (which the dealer and numerous mechanics have
attempted to fix). After every few hundred miles or so the engine would
start to shudder, not continuously, but then it could happen every few
miles. A couple of times it got so bad I had to stop and let it cool a
bit (at least it would shudder all the way home). It could happen for a
few days in a row, then goes away for another few hundred miles of
driving (a week or two).
The engine diagnostics on the ECCS keep reading that all is OK.
I have replaced the wiring harness, computer, ignition cables, vacuum
hoses, distributor, fuel pump, fuel injectors and tested with a new air
flow meter, to little avail.
Any suggestions would be well appreciated.
Also today went to Pep Boys and they told me the can't order either part.
Also called Nissan S/Dept and got someone very knowledgable on the phone (parts dept told me there is no separate part number for top lid weatherstripping, so I would have to buy a whole new lid.....at ~ $ 745.00 + tax + labor.....oh sure !)....
Anyway, thought I'd pass along what S/Dept said so others can benefit....
They said the sunroof is made to accept water and should let it exit out via 4 drain hoses connected to the interior base.....I can have a mechanic blow air up from the underside of the car to try to dislodge any blocks, but do not blow air from the top of the drain tube downward....I suggested this is probably bec the force of air will dislodge the tubes from the base....his response was that I was correct and the first one to have called about this problem and understood what the force of air will do..... to re connect will mean taking the whole thing apart and out of the Maxima, a tedious and expensive job....and also meaning the car would have to be left at the dealer at least a full day....
He also agreed the mechanic can use a very thin wire and push it in from the top as this should not cause the tubes to loosen.....however, to be safe, I would have the mechanic first try it from the bottom up.
I'll have to take the car in to the mechanic and have him try it.....
Thanks again......
read all about it:
http://sleepwalk.home.mindspring.com
What I ask you to do is this... When the sunroof is closed, there is a dran "pan" that slides into place. Let me just back-up a second. The sunroof is surrounded on 3 sides (front and both sides) by stationary drains. The rear portion of the sunroof uses a sliding "PAN" that is pulled into place when the sunroof closes, and is retracted or pushed back by the sunroof panel when you open it (meaning when you slide it back...not pop it up). There have been MANY instances where the small retractor clips that GRAP this drip PAN snap off...usually on one side only. What this does is it will no longer pull this pan into place when you close the sunroof (you may also hear a strange metallic noise while opening and closing the roof and/or while it's open and you hit a bump). Without this pan in place, when it rains, water will seep through the perimeter gasket (surrounds the glass part of the roof) and can go pretty much anywhere. The gasket around the glass is not in place to keep water out...it's to keep out wind noise...thats why these drains are in place.
IF this is your problem, there are 2 metal clips that have to be replaced, and are cheap...BUT.....your dealer will have to do the work because it requires dropping the entire headliner, and both sunroof support rails.
The way to double check if this IS the problem is this.....with the sunroof in the "POP-UP" position, look from the inside at the rear portion of the sunroof. there should be a pan thats about 2 1/2 inches in width, and spans the side to side length of the sunroof. Now close the roof, and slowly slide it back....you will see this pan go back with the rear edge of the glass....and return when you fully clse it again.
If it doesn't fully go back into place or, is missing...that's you problem.
I hope this helps....I've found many of this same problem on Maximas from 95 thru 99, and on Pathfinders as well. Good luck.
Joe
Changed O2 sensor thee times (everytime after the warranty)
Changed temperature sensor
Changed alternator which cost an arm and a leg.
numerous other issues
every winter the brakes freeze up if the temp falls below -10c and have to wait till the car warms up.
Every 3 months the oil and required maintenance was done and after 2+ yrs i was forced to trade the car at 176k. I had a Datsun about 10+ yrs ago which was a reliable vehicle. The quality & reliability has really gone down. This will be my last nissan!!!
I'm looking to invest in chrome rims for my maxima...and wanted to know the proper size/ bolt patters i need.
thanks.
Kin...Nissans O2 sensors are known to last a short time. Next time, if there is a next time, they go bad, change over to BOSCH O2 sensors...they'll last damn near forever.
Joe
I changed the spark plugs and flushed the feul system. but it does not help. Does anyone can help me out? Thanks,
Joe
Gave my mechanic the sunroof diagrams from the thick 1990 Maxima service manual, which I bght 10 yrs ago !....although he subscribes to a CD rom service so he can get specs if he has to on any vehicle.....
He took out ceiling liner and entire assembly....yep, he did...I saw it in his shop....and found a small pile of accumulated dirt...yes dirt....in the channel which resulted in a blockage thereby causing rainwater, etc. to overflow, go underside and drip, drip, drip into the car from the latest Northeast showstorm and soak the carpet behind the front passenger seat....picked up the car today and sunroof works ok....
1/30/01 is supposed to be wet all day.....guess I'll see if he was right.....charged me for 3.5 hours of work.....which I think is reasonable.....
Here comes the rain......(actually the song goes..."here comes the sun..." by the Beatles...)...
Later.....
Joe
Thanks for the help...
When i had it checked out by my mechanic after the auction he said nothing was wrong with the engine.....
was the sensor just incorrectly telling me i had a problem....or did the problem go away?
thanks.
With my 90 GXE, I found cleaning the throttle body had the biggest difference on curing the idle dip. A new rotor smoothed the idle even more.
If you have a 95+ Maxima, (I believe you said you have a 97) you have no cap, rotor, or plug wires to worry about. The VQ engine doesn't have any of these components.
Joe
And thanks now I know what that funny clicking is when I start the car when very cold!! If I could only start it...
Joe
Nissan insisted its the starter and it got replaced twice but that didn't fix anything (it was covered under warranty at the time). I tried to explain that they already replaced it once but they insited to replace it again.
now that my warranty is over i haven't really had anyone to look at it. but i have a bunch of resposes from mechanics on other boards that i can share if you would like. if the discription of my problem (read below) is the same as your problem.
when turning the key (all the way) to start the engine,
> nothing will happen for about a second or two and
> the car will start after a couple of tries.
> Immediatly the rpm falls down from whatever idle
> its suppose to be at and the engine stalls.
> happens more often on cold or even cool weather
> conditions. it happens when the car has been sitting
> for few hours.
I got a 1992 maxima(97Kmiles) a month ago. I've paid $1000 to repair it within a month. I still feel a side to side wobble in the steering wheel at low speed, though it runs pretty good before repair.
The problem is initiated by CV-boots replacement and left CV-joint rebuilt in a vietnamese workshop. The left lower-ball-joint is found damaged after this service. Then I replaced it in another workshop, and changed inner-tie-rod-ends, all the struts, and front motor mount, but the steering wheel is still loose and sometimes unstable. Should I replace all the steering linkage?
BTW, a Nissan dealer did the alignment for the car. Instead of showing a computer alignment data report, they noted on the receipt: "Has slight tire pull to left". It seems the more repair, the more problems come up. :-(
Unless they didn't check the entire front end...which I'd have asked them to do while it was there. If they did find a problem, and you didn't want to pay dealers rates to repair it....at least you'd know what the problem was...and could take it elsewhere to have the work done.
Joe