Have there been any recalls on 99 Maximas about steering pull? Mine pulls to the right slightly and its not the tires, and the dealer has put the alignment "in spec" - it still pulls.
After 3 hours of road tests and inspections, it looks like we have the rumbling suspension problem identified (low speed bumping noise coming from driver side wheel well... Looks like it was the stabilizer link. will keep you posted...
As for the engine clicking noise. I will run 93 octane for a month and see what happens.
My '99 maxima SE seems to track straight (although I only have about 700 of my own miles on it, but that includes a long highway trip).
I actually had a pull problem with my '99 Quest. Problem was isolated to a bad tire (radial tire pull). Alignment was spot on, but the pull switched sides when the front tires were swapped side to side.
Hi, I read with interest the comments about the noisey engine at startup, mine has been doing the same thing after my most recent oil change. After about a minute the enging quiets right down, but the question is - is my engine being damaged by this oil starvation, and what should I do about it, its only been 500 miles since my oil change. Thanks!
I have a 91 maxima gxe, and recently the seat belt warning light and bell comes on at random, even when both front seat belts are fastened. Sometimes it will happen every few minutes while I'm driving down the road, very annoying... anyone else seen this? Thanks.
hi I have 95 maxima SE. Is the flickering of the engine light at start-up an in dication of aproblem or it is normal. It only flickers for a second. Thanks
Hi, I have a 2001 max se with 2250 miles on it. Ever since I bought it, I would say 2x a week, I would sometimes have to start it 3 times before the engine catches on. In the brochure, they said this can happen due to the computerized key not being read properly by the car - I just assumed this was normal. Last night however, the start didn't sound too good. It sounded like there was no fuel in the gas line and the engine was choking. I instinctively stepped on the gas and the engine caught on. Now I am confused if its really just a "key" problem or something is wrong with the fuel system. I am hesitant to bring it to the dealer because a lot of times they give you the run around. Last time I brought the car to the dealer at 500 miles for an alignment problem. They stated it didn't have a problem when clearly the car was drifting to the right. I took it to my mechanic, hooked it up to a hunter alignment machine and clearly saw that is it misaligned. Anyway, anyone else having this problem and what was your resolution for it. Thanks. Ben
I have a 2001 GXE and am having the same problems you have described. In the two months of owning the car, the car has not started at least 10 times. I also have stepped on the gas to finally start it and it chokes, too. So much for reliability. It's very upsetting, to say the least.
Yeah, the dealership will tell you that this is normal or something like that. I mentionned it before and the service manager looked at me like I was nuts. Sometimes I wonder if these service managers are trained to play dumb (you know they aren't) and to make it seem like you're imagining things.
I am just so disappointed with the experiences I have had with my Max (hard shifting between gears, rust all over the trunk frame from the spoiler installation, scratched up plastic on the interior, funky surging when using cruise control, etc.) that I almost can't handle it. This is the first new car I have had in nine years and I researched and test drove intensively before buying it. It seemed like it was the best car for my needs. Now I long for my '92 Toyota Corolla with 101,000 miles on it. At least it ALWAYS started.
Oh well...just venting here, sorry. I hope you have some luck resolving the starting issue. Let us know how you handle it.
I'm glad I visited this forum because I've been having strange problems with my car and its nice to know I am not crazy and there are others out there with the same or similar problem.
Anyway, I've been having the ignition problem I've been hearing a lot of you talk about. I get in the car sometimes and turn the key and nothing happens. I take the key out, turn it around and try again. Nothing. I wait awhile, try a couple more times and eventually it starts. Anyway, I took it to the dealer and they said it was because the car's automatic transmission was not going into Park all the way when I clearly had the car in park. It cost me around $36 for labor to adjust the cable inside. Don't know why since I thought labor was included in a bumper to bumper warranty. Anyway, I didn't argue and paid.
The second problem was with this automatic transmission not shifting properly. It seemed to me that the car would stay in a lower gear longer than it should have. It seems to rev forever sometimes when I accelerate hard, stays between 5000 and 6000 ram, and I would be in the car yelling at it to shift. There is a whole other gear there ready and willing to take over. Well, I took it to the dealer and they found nothing wrong with it. They said everything is fine, it is driving normally, there were no DC codes stating that there was a problem. The service etch did say two things I thought was interesting. 1). The car within approx. the first 10 minutes of driving on cold days will hold the gear longer before shifting. He said that this is not a problem, its just how it works. Also 2). he said that there is a computer on board that learns how you drive and shifts the gears accordingly. If you drive hard the shifting will be carder and possibly hold the gear longer. I was not convinced with these answers but I could not reproduce the problem with the etch. so I gave up. Like I said, it seems to be intermittent. All I can do now is to keep an eye on it.
Well, the problem I went in to primarily fix, the cranny problem, remains unfixed and the ignition problem seems to be solved. I just got the car back today so I will post more information when I can. Hope this helps some.
The digital clock brightness on my 2001 Maxima is much weaker then the stereo and climate controls. I often cannot see it during the daytime. Is this normal or is there a problem with my system?
I have had a 91 SE since 5/92 and it has done the warning light thing for years. Just never have wanted to bother fixing it. Does it when it's been in the sun for awhile and it's hot out. Also beeps. Jerking the driver's shoulder belt at the seat end used to help, doesn't any more. I'm selling it soon, though, so I won't be fixing it.
Just bought a 94 maxima. VERY nice with the exception of the wheels. The hubs are corroded in the center (?chrome?)surface is pitted, but of concern to me is possible brake damage. When I look through the wheel to where the rim is attached to the axle, I think the brake drum (again ? as I am incompetent here) it is deeply rusted. Do I have a problem here with the wheels or is this wear and tear on a 7 year old car driven in the snow. Rest of the car is just great.
It is very possible that the monroe muffler shop used a cheap oil filter (such as Fram) with no anti-drain valve. This can lead to oil starvation at startup and eventually damage your engine.
Nissan had a problem getting the clear coat to stick to the wheels for these era wheels. The center cap is chrome plated plastic, so it doesn't match the wheel very well when the clearcoat ages. I bought a set of '91 SE wheels (very cheap) with the same problem. You could get them professionally redone, for about $100 each. What I did was clean and sand them down, then just painted them silver (which is actually the right finish for my '90). They look much better.
Do you guys have any things on the key chain that my interfere with the Maxima's key?
I had a 2K Max GXE. Couple weeks ago, it had a hard time to start. Like you guys, need to step on the gas pedal or wait couple minutes and the car will start. I had Winston Tire to check the battery, and the battery is good. Then finally, I brought it to the dealership. The master techician found out that my "Mobile speed pass" is causing all the problem. Somehow the speedpass interferes with the computer chip that inside the key. The techician needs to reprogram my keys and I need take out the speedpass. Now the car starts everytime. Hope this help.
djames1, I am having starting problems with my Max, a 2001 auto SE with 1200 miles on it.It starts fine in the morning when I am leaving for work and evening when I go home. It also starts right up if the engine is hot.My problem is when I restart after a couple of hours. I have to crank it 2-3 times to get the engine to turn over. You said you were having a fuel specialist from Nissan look at your car back in January, did they find anything ??
I thoroughly read the manual and Nissan does state that it can be a problem with the car reading the computerized keys correctly as pointed out by tgif888. So if the starter sounds fine but the engine doesn't catch then it could be a key problem.
Also, the manual states that if the car is left sitting for 30 minutes after driving or in cold or hot temperatures, the engine might not start properly and would need help by stepping on the accelerator. This is probably when the engine was choking. I did step on the gas and it did start. It was raining that night too so I wonder if that had anything to do with it.
Anyway, I can understand how you are feeling. It can get really frustrating. I sold my 95 bmw 325i for the maxima but I am now having second thoughts. Not only do I have starting problems but I've been hearing ticking noises in the interior where I can't pinpoint where and what it is. I can take it to the dealer but as you know they aren't very helpful especially for random events that we are experiencing.
I just think we should not be experiencing these things with a new car. Mines is only 1 month old with 2500 miles.
Sad to say that I think we might just have to live with the little problems. The car does have a really smooth and powerful engine.
My 2000 DE has a few minor problems, one of which is a rattle coming from the glove box. I have tried to figure it out and think it is coming from the lock mechanism. I seem to recall seeing some posting on this a while back (6-9 months ago) when I was researching buying the Maxima. Any others have the same trouble? Any known fixes? I love the car but can't stand the rattle in the background which you can hear when you have the radio off, and there are times that I don't want the radio on to cover the rattle noise. Thanks...........
Took my 2001 Max into the dealership today to try to resolve the shifting/surging problem as well as the car not always starting and the service manager said there is a TSB out indicating that the solenoid and some other part (possibly some kind of pan--not sure) have to be replaced.
He did not have the parts so he will be unable to replace them until next week. He said if replacing these items does not solve the problems, then he said he would replace the TCM, which one of the wonderful people in this forum suggested weeks ago.
I am far from being a car wizard, but isn't the solenoid connected only to starting problems and not shifting/transmission problems? I'm sorry I didn't ask the service manager to clarify this as well as what the name is of the other part he intends to replace.
In response to Ben/Kagedude's sentiment about the Max's smooth and powerful engine--yes, I agree! That's one of the reasons I bought the car, plus the fact that it was so much more comfortable than the Accord and Camry. If some of the bigger problems that I've been having can be resolved, then maybe I'll be willing to live with some of the little problems, like the squeaks around the doorframe (the rubber part) that are becoming more noticeable as the weather gets warmer...
I'm back, and it just keeps getting worse. 1st -thanks on the wheels. Dealer said same thing as brucer2 but I got quoted $70 per. My real issue - timing belt on the 94 Maxima. I had a safety inspection done - suggests a replacement of the timing belt @ 60-70k miles running in the area of $450. Dealer selling car states - preventative maintanance no big thing not needed on a Maxima til 90+ k miles. Am I getting my chain jerked here by the dealer? So to bone up, anyone able to lead me to a listing on the web of expected wear & tear on a Maxima at the 60/80/100k mile markers?
A solenoid is an electrically operated switch. Almost all newer transmissions/transaxles are controlled by a computer (Transmission Control Module), which operates several different solenoids mounted internally in the trans to provide shifts, control oil pressure, apply the torque converter clutch, etc.
First, I assume you have a GXE and not a SE (SE's don't have a timing belt). Next, check the mfg date on the door jam between the dirver's and passenger's door. It should be 7/93 or later for a '94. If so, your timing belt is good for 105k miles. Cars made earlier have belt that has to be changed at 60k miles. (The pullies are also different, so you just can't put a new style belt on an older car.) One preventive maintance thing you want to get done is the transmission fluid. Have the drain plug removed (to clean the magnet on the plug), and then have the rest of the fluid in the torque converter changed (full fluid exchange about 8 qts.) Get it refilled with synthetic ATF (Mobil 1 is available all over, about $5 a quart). When this is being done, it would be a good idea to also have a seperate transmission cooler installed. If you don't at least get a full fluid change, the transmission will be on borrowed time once you go past 100k miles. Even if it costs $200 (full fluid exhange with synthetic and cooler), it's 1/10th the cost of a transmission job.
You're very welcome! Hope your trans problems are resolved for you. Btw, you were right about the starter, it uses a great whacking big solenoid. Power door locks and trunk release and a host of other applications use them too. :-)
I just purchased a new maxima 5 sp - I have a couple of questions.
1. While driving the car I red lined the engine not realizing how high the rpm were the car red lined to about 7 then it jolted forward and when i realized it and I shifted to the next gear. Must confess I do drive the car hard. Will this create any problems in the engine?
2. What is the break in period? My car has 1100 miles.
Thanks to whoever posted maxima.org as a link. I found a TSB regarding the rattles and squeaks on the car and printed out the TSB instructions. Rather than take it to the dealer, I just followed the diagrams and pinpointed where the tick was coming from. In my case, it was from the lower front passenger side panel. Basically, all you need to do to fix the rattles and squeaks is foam and self adhesive felt paper/foam. I used self adhesive foam that I picked up from home depot and once installed in 5 minutes, the ticks, rattles and squeaks are gone. Whew... and I thought I had to leave it with the dealer.
I have a 2000 Maxima SE 5-speed. Break-in is 1000 miles, its in the owners manual. Maxima engine has a rev limiter. Good thing, because its so easy to over-rev it since it revs so quietly and quickly. I've hit the rev limiter by accident several times in second or third, often while distracted by traffic while merging. When it hits the red line the fuel is cut off and the engine stumbles, without harm to the engine.
I've owned the car for just under 5 years and put just over 100k on it myself. It now has almost 149k on it. I have 2 major concerns with my car. 1st is a shimmy I can't get rid of! I changed the tires, rims, ball joints, and struts to name a few things. And anywhere from@ 60-90mph, I get this slight shimmy that comes and goes. Any idea what the problem might be? 2nd is the exhaust system. Two of the studs, one on each manifold, just snapped off when the car was only 4 years old. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? Any input would be appreciated!
My car is overheating based on the temperature gauge, (all the way up to "H") No other indicatures are showing a problem, it will sometimes go down to a normal temperature, but climbs back up to the "H" The car has 97000 miles and was religiously maintained at the dealer it was purchased from.
Have any of you had aftermarket stuff installed in your maximas? I was not blessed with the coveted Bose system and I want to add a powered subwoofer to my 97 SE. How involved an installation would you guys/gals estimate this to be? Mind you, I am not so cheap as not to want to take it to Hi-Fi Buys or, Heaven forbid, Circuit City. However, sometimes--a lot of times--these guys can do crappy work. I've had bad experiences and I don't want stuff left loose or even broken or otherwise screwed up in order to get the sub installed. I can screw things up myself. Also, how involved is an installation of a non-powered subwoofer and an amp? The actual mounting is not a big concern, but the electrical connections, particularly how to get to them, are. I've installed stuff in other cars but I've been to scared to mess with the stuff in my Maxi for fear of necessitating a costly repair. Tell me what the deal is.
I would go with a quality local shop for the install. It really shouldn't cost much more, and you will likely have a much better job done. Plus you probably will get better advice on what components will work the best.
I'm experiencing an intermittent spark knock under acceleration. I'm using premium gas and have changed the plugs recently. Since the check engine light is not coming on I am at a loss as to what the problem is. Any suggestions?
there is a problem I/ignition coils going bad, causing intermintant knocking and does not give an error code. I am not at all familiar I/3rd generation cars so I don't know if this applies. I know this is not much but I hope it helps
So am I to understand that none of you guys have done any car stereo installation in your Maximas? All of you have the Bose system? Or have you been able to be content with the fac?
I always knew that I was particular about my cars but now even my wife and daughter have mentioned that there is a strange road sound from the right side of our 2000 SE. It has the 17" six spoke wheels with an automatic. The noise is repetitive, it starts and stops consistently and is not tied to each revolution of the tires. It is most noticeable at 30-40 mph steady speed. I don't notice it at highway speeds but it may just be overcome by other noise. The car in general seems to have too much road noise. I tell my wife that it is due to the DE wheels and tires. Has anyone noticed these symptoms?
Recently we purchased a 2001 Maxima GLE. After 3 days, we noticed a sort of hollow "drumming" sound when going over rough road. The car now has approximately 800 miles on it, and it has been in the shop four times. Today, we had it back in the shop and although the technician heard the sound, he did not know the cause. We then drove another 2001 Maxima GLE on the lot and it did the same thing. Any ideas?
I have both a '90 and '94 GXE, and both seem to develop a gas smell only during very cold temperatures and only for the first 30 minutes, then the smell vanishes. I had the '90 corrected for this by tightening some fuel hoses. Has anyone else experienced this gas smell? The injectors are fine.
By the way, the '90 Maxima has been a very good auto, otherwise, with no major problems and 173K. The '94 (72K) has been a disappointment with transmission overhaul, and replaced tie-rods, ball joints, 2 window motors, water pump, rear window heater switch, etc. However, both are fun to drive as the suspension and steering are very stable and responsive.
Since the first week of ownership, I have noticed a vibration through my seat and steering wheel. The vibration is only noticable during idle and it does not affect the rpm gauge. Took it to my local dealer and was told that it was normal. They told me it was the ECU making changes with the fuel. Is this really a inherent characteristic? I do not recall noticing this problem in a similiar car that I test drove. I would appreciate any feedback regarding this problem.
borisgudonov: I know of a website that has a somewhat detailed procedure for running wires and hooking up an amp and a sub to the BOSE stereos...perhaps you could take a look at it and work from there? here is the website:
just go to the section that deals with the amp hookup, I am quite sure this setup will work in your car...dont take my word for it, I am no expert in car audio, but I know a lot about home audio, and much of it is similar. The setup detailed in that FAQ senses the audio signal from the rear speaker which powers up the amp and gets the sub going. its worth the try...
this is for the 4th gen maximas, but it may work with 5 generation...its worth the try it would probably take 5 mins to do. if it doesnt work and you have a 5th generation max, definately take it back to the dealer and just have them do it, and have them show you how to do it. Most dealers are courteous enough to spend at least this much time with you.
RichIITF: I have a 97 I30t (similar to the max, and same engine) and I too have a vibration in the seat and steering wheel as you describe...mostly in R or D when the headlights and foglights are on. A friends 2K max did not have the vibrations I was experiencing...but his did have very very light sensations in the wheel which would be expected and which are normal. I have had the EGR, BPT valve and exhaust manifold changed out, which slightly improved the situation. Maybe your base idle is set too low...have the dealer adjust and set both the BASE and TARGET idle speeds just to make sure.
Let me know if you have plus sized your stock tires to 235 or 245 sized tires. I did on my 97 I30, and now the insides of my tires are wearing faster than the outside...plus I am getting that "feather" effect with the treads (where running your hand one way, one tread block will end up lower than the next consecutive tread block). The local tire shop says the camber is too negetive, but then my Infiniti tech says camber cant be adjusted on these models (unless you gouge out the factory holes...this is not somethign to do). I am getting horrible vibrations (entire car) at speeds above 75 mph all the way to 90 (havent tested past 90 yet). Anybody else plus size with these types of tires, and what was your experience...also, how many miles did you pull out of ZR tires? I'm expecting merely 10K right now...
I am considering purchasing a 92 SE from a friend of mine (original owner) as a city car. My only hesitation about the car is the milage. There is currently 125K on the car. Can I expect the car to last another 50K or 4 years? The car has undergone regular maintance.
Comments
Any ideas as to what next?
As for the engine clicking noise. I will run 93 octane for a month and see what happens.
it was the sway bar link
noise was gone when replaced
I actually had a pull problem with my '99 Quest. Problem was isolated to a bad tire (radial tire pull). Alignment was spot on, but the pull switched sides when the front tires were swapped side to side.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I read with interest the comments about the noisey engine at startup, mine has been doing the same thing after my most recent oil change. After about a minute the enging quiets right down, but the question is - is my engine being damaged by this oil starvation, and what should I do about it, its only been 500 miles since my oil change.
Thanks!
anyone else seen this?
Thanks.
I have 95 maxima SE. Is the flickering of the engine light at start-up an in dication of aproblem or it is normal. It only flickers for a second.
Thanks
I have a 2001 GXE and am having the same problems you have described. In the two months of owning the car, the car has not started at least 10 times. I also have stepped on the gas to finally start it and it chokes, too. So much for reliability. It's very upsetting, to say the least.
Yeah, the dealership will tell you that this is normal or something like that. I mentionned it before and the service manager looked at me like I was nuts. Sometimes I wonder if these service managers are trained to play dumb (you know they aren't) and to make it seem like you're imagining things.
I am just so disappointed with the experiences I have had with my Max (hard shifting between gears, rust all over the trunk frame from the spoiler installation, scratched up plastic on the interior, funky surging when using cruise control, etc.) that I almost can't handle it. This is the first new car I have had in nine years and I researched and test drove intensively before buying it. It seemed like it was the best car for my needs. Now I long for my '92 Toyota Corolla with 101,000 miles on it. At least it ALWAYS started.
Oh well...just venting here, sorry. I hope you have some luck resolving the starting issue. Let us know how you handle it.
Anyway, I've been having the ignition problem I've been hearing a lot of you talk about. I get in the car sometimes and turn the key and nothing happens. I take the key out, turn it around and try again. Nothing. I wait awhile, try a couple more times and eventually it starts. Anyway, I took it to the dealer and they said it was because the car's automatic transmission was not going into Park all the way when I clearly had the car in park. It cost me around $36 for labor to adjust the cable inside. Don't know why since I thought labor was included in a bumper to bumper warranty. Anyway, I didn't argue and paid.
The second problem was with this automatic transmission not shifting properly. It seemed to me that the car would stay in a lower gear longer than it should have. It seems to rev forever sometimes when I accelerate hard, stays between 5000 and 6000 ram, and I would be in the car yelling at it to shift. There is a whole other gear there ready and willing to take over. Well, I took it to the dealer and they found nothing wrong with it. They said everything is fine, it is driving normally, there were no DC codes stating that there was a problem. The service etch did say two things I thought was interesting. 1). The car within approx. the first 10 minutes of driving on cold days will hold the gear longer before shifting. He said that this is not a problem, its just how it works. Also 2). he said that there is a computer on board that learns how you drive and shifts the gears accordingly. If you drive hard the shifting will be carder and possibly hold the gear longer. I was not convinced with these answers but I could not reproduce the problem with the etch. so I gave up. Like I said, it seems to be intermittent. All I can do now is to keep an eye on it.
Well, the problem I went in to primarily fix, the cranny problem, remains unfixed and the ignition problem seems to be solved. I just got the car back today so I will post more information when I can. Hope this helps some.
Not sure - it was done the monroe muffler shop.
>How many miles do you have on the car?
85K
>Do you see the engine light come on and/or flicker at startup?
No.
Thanks for you help-
I often cannot see it during the daytime. Is this normal or is there a problem with my system?
Do I have a problem here with the wheels or is this wear and tear on a 7 year old car driven in the snow. Rest of the car is just great.
Honestly, I don't know what's normal and what's abnormal with the Max anymore. If you find out, please share!
I had a 2K Max GXE. Couple weeks ago, it had a hard time to start. Like you guys, need to step on the gas pedal or wait couple minutes and the car will start. I had Winston Tire to check the battery, and the battery is good. Then finally, I brought it to the dealership. The master techician found out that my "Mobile speed pass" is causing all the problem. Somehow the speedpass interferes with the computer chip that inside the key. The techician needs to reprogram my keys and I need take out the speedpass. Now the car starts everytime. Hope this help.
I thoroughly read the manual and Nissan does state that it can be a problem with the car reading the computerized keys correctly as pointed out by tgif888. So if the starter sounds fine but the engine doesn't catch then it could be a key problem.
Also, the manual states that if the car is left sitting for 30 minutes after driving or in cold or hot temperatures, the engine might not start properly and would need help by stepping on the accelerator. This is probably when the engine was choking. I did step on the gas and it did start. It was raining that night too so I wonder if that had anything to do with it.
Anyway, I can understand how you are feeling. It can get really frustrating. I sold my 95 bmw 325i for the maxima but I am now having second thoughts. Not only do I have starting problems but I've been hearing ticking noises in the interior where I can't pinpoint where and what it is. I can take it to the dealer but as you know they aren't very helpful especially for random events that we are experiencing.
I just think we should not be experiencing these things with a new car. Mines is only 1 month old with 2500 miles.
Sad to say that I think we might just have to live with the little problems. The car does have a really smooth and powerful engine.
Ben
He did not have the parts so he will be unable to replace them until next week. He said if replacing these items does not solve the problems, then he said he would replace the TCM, which one of the wonderful people in this forum suggested weeks ago.
I am far from being a car wizard, but isn't the solenoid connected only to starting problems and not shifting/transmission problems? I'm sorry I didn't ask the service manager to clarify this as well as what the name is of the other part he intends to replace.
In response to Ben/Kagedude's sentiment about the Max's smooth and powerful engine--yes, I agree! That's one of the reasons I bought the car, plus the fact that it was so much more comfortable than the Accord and Camry. If some of the bigger problems that I've been having can be resolved, then maybe I'll be willing to live with some of the little problems, like the squeaks around the doorframe (the rubber part) that are becoming more noticeable as the weather gets warmer...
My real issue - timing belt on the 94 Maxima. I had a safety inspection done - suggests a replacement of the timing belt @ 60-70k miles running in the area of $450. Dealer selling car states - preventative maintanance no big thing not needed on a Maxima til 90+ k miles.
Am I getting my chain jerked here by the dealer? So to bone up, anyone able to lead me to a listing on the web of expected wear & tear on a Maxima at the 60/80/100k mile markers?
One preventive maintance thing you want to get done is the transmission fluid. Have the drain plug removed (to clean the magnet on the plug), and then have the rest of the fluid in the torque converter changed (full fluid exchange about 8 qts.) Get it refilled with synthetic ATF (Mobil 1 is available all over, about $5 a quart). When this is being done, it would be a good idea to also have a seperate transmission cooler installed. If you don't at least get a full fluid change, the transmission will be on borrowed time once you go past 100k miles. Even if it costs $200 (full fluid exhange with synthetic and cooler), it's 1/10th the cost of a transmission job.
Thanks so much for the solenoid explanation. It all makes sense now!
1. While driving the car I red lined the engine not realizing how high the rpm were the car red lined to about 7 then it jolted forward and when i realized it and I shifted to the next gear. Must confess I do drive the car hard. Will this create any problems in the engine?
2. What is the break in period? My car has 1100 miles.
Will appreciate a reply from anyone.
Thanks alot for the helpful info. Maybe I should look into the owners manual more often.
joe830
Can anyone help?
Got it all. Nice site
The car has 97000 miles and was religiously maintained at the dealer it was purchased from.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Mark
I own a maxima GLE 97. I got a question here about the alarm system.
Does anyone know how to reprogram the alarm system/keyless entry?
Thanks.
By the way, the '90 Maxima has been a very good auto, otherwise, with no major problems and 173K. The '94 (72K) has been a disappointment with transmission overhaul, and replaced tie-rods, ball joints, 2 window motors, water pump, rear window heater switch, etc. However, both are fun to drive as the suspension and steering are very stable and responsive.
BigJoeMax
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/eleclight.htm
just go to the section that deals with the amp hookup, I am quite sure this setup will work in your car...dont take my word for it, I am no expert in car audio, but I know a lot about home audio, and much of it is similar. The setup detailed in that FAQ senses the audio signal from the rear speaker which powers up the amp and gets the sub going. its worth the try...
tamtoro: There is a FAQ on the following website that details the programming for the keyless remotes: http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/maintenance.htm
this is for the 4th gen maximas, but it may work with 5 generation...its worth the try it would probably take 5 mins to do. if it doesnt work and you have a 5th generation max, definately take it back to the dealer and just have them do it, and have them show you how to do it. Most dealers are courteous enough to spend at least this much time with you.
RichIITF: I have a 97 I30t (similar to the max, and same engine) and I too have a vibration in the seat and steering wheel as you describe...mostly in R or D when the headlights and foglights are on. A friends 2K max did not have the vibrations I was experiencing...but his did have very very light sensations in the wheel which would be expected and which are normal. I have had the EGR, BPT valve and exhaust manifold changed out, which slightly improved the situation. Maybe your base idle is set too low...have the dealer adjust and set both the BASE and TARGET idle speeds just to make sure.
Any experience would be helpful.