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Comments
Any ideas as to what next?
As for the engine clicking noise. I will run 93 octane for a month and see what happens.
it was the sway bar link
noise was gone when replaced
I actually had a pull problem with my '99 Quest. Problem was isolated to a bad tire (radial tire pull). Alignment was spot on, but the pull switched sides when the front tires were swapped side to side.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I read with interest the comments about the noisey engine at startup, mine has been doing the same thing after my most recent oil change. After about a minute the enging quiets right down, but the question is - is my engine being damaged by this oil starvation, and what should I do about it, its only been 500 miles since my oil change.
Thanks!
anyone else seen this?
Thanks.
I have 95 maxima SE. Is the flickering of the engine light at start-up an in dication of aproblem or it is normal. It only flickers for a second.
Thanks
I have a 2001 GXE and am having the same problems you have described. In the two months of owning the car, the car has not started at least 10 times. I also have stepped on the gas to finally start it and it chokes, too. So much for reliability. It's very upsetting, to say the least.
Yeah, the dealership will tell you that this is normal or something like that. I mentionned it before and the service manager looked at me like I was nuts. Sometimes I wonder if these service managers are trained to play dumb (you know they aren't) and to make it seem like you're imagining things.
I am just so disappointed with the experiences I have had with my Max (hard shifting between gears, rust all over the trunk frame from the spoiler installation, scratched up plastic on the interior, funky surging when using cruise control, etc.) that I almost can't handle it. This is the first new car I have had in nine years and I researched and test drove intensively before buying it. It seemed like it was the best car for my needs. Now I long for my '92 Toyota Corolla with 101,000 miles on it. At least it ALWAYS started.
Oh well...just venting here, sorry. I hope you have some luck resolving the starting issue. Let us know how you handle it.
Anyway, I've been having the ignition problem I've been hearing a lot of you talk about. I get in the car sometimes and turn the key and nothing happens. I take the key out, turn it around and try again. Nothing. I wait awhile, try a couple more times and eventually it starts. Anyway, I took it to the dealer and they said it was because the car's automatic transmission was not going into Park all the way when I clearly had the car in park. It cost me around $36 for labor to adjust the cable inside. Don't know why since I thought labor was included in a bumper to bumper warranty. Anyway, I didn't argue and paid.
The second problem was with this automatic transmission not shifting properly. It seemed to me that the car would stay in a lower gear longer than it should have. It seems to rev forever sometimes when I accelerate hard, stays between 5000 and 6000 ram, and I would be in the car yelling at it to shift. There is a whole other gear there ready and willing to take over. Well, I took it to the dealer and they found nothing wrong with it. They said everything is fine, it is driving normally, there were no DC codes stating that there was a problem. The service etch did say two things I thought was interesting. 1). The car within approx. the first 10 minutes of driving on cold days will hold the gear longer before shifting. He said that this is not a problem, its just how it works. Also 2). he said that there is a computer on board that learns how you drive and shifts the gears accordingly. If you drive hard the shifting will be carder and possibly hold the gear longer. I was not convinced with these answers but I could not reproduce the problem with the etch. so I gave up. Like I said, it seems to be intermittent. All I can do now is to keep an eye on it.
Well, the problem I went in to primarily fix, the cranny problem, remains unfixed and the ignition problem seems to be solved. I just got the car back today so I will post more information when I can. Hope this helps some.
Not sure - it was done the monroe muffler shop.
>How many miles do you have on the car?
85K
>Do you see the engine light come on and/or flicker at startup?
No.
Thanks for you help-
I often cannot see it during the daytime. Is this normal or is there a problem with my system?
Do I have a problem here with the wheels or is this wear and tear on a 7 year old car driven in the snow. Rest of the car is just great.
Honestly, I don't know what's normal and what's abnormal with the Max anymore. If you find out, please share!
I had a 2K Max GXE. Couple weeks ago, it had a hard time to start. Like you guys, need to step on the gas pedal or wait couple minutes and the car will start. I had Winston Tire to check the battery, and the battery is good. Then finally, I brought it to the dealership. The master techician found out that my "Mobile speed pass" is causing all the problem. Somehow the speedpass interferes with the computer chip that inside the key. The techician needs to reprogram my keys and I need take out the speedpass. Now the car starts everytime. Hope this help.
I thoroughly read the manual and Nissan does state that it can be a problem with the car reading the computerized keys correctly as pointed out by tgif888. So if the starter sounds fine but the engine doesn't catch then it could be a key problem.
Also, the manual states that if the car is left sitting for 30 minutes after driving or in cold or hot temperatures, the engine might not start properly and would need help by stepping on the accelerator. This is probably when the engine was choking. I did step on the gas and it did start. It was raining that night too so I wonder if that had anything to do with it.
Anyway, I can understand how you are feeling. It can get really frustrating. I sold my 95 bmw 325i for the maxima but I am now having second thoughts. Not only do I have starting problems but I've been hearing ticking noises in the interior where I can't pinpoint where and what it is. I can take it to the dealer but as you know they aren't very helpful especially for random events that we are experiencing.
I just think we should not be experiencing these things with a new car. Mines is only 1 month old with 2500 miles.
Sad to say that I think we might just have to live with the little problems. The car does have a really smooth and powerful engine.
Ben
He did not have the parts so he will be unable to replace them until next week. He said if replacing these items does not solve the problems, then he said he would replace the TCM, which one of the wonderful people in this forum suggested weeks ago.
I am far from being a car wizard, but isn't the solenoid connected only to starting problems and not shifting/transmission problems? I'm sorry I didn't ask the service manager to clarify this as well as what the name is of the other part he intends to replace.
In response to Ben/Kagedude's sentiment about the Max's smooth and powerful engine--yes, I agree! That's one of the reasons I bought the car, plus the fact that it was so much more comfortable than the Accord and Camry. If some of the bigger problems that I've been having can be resolved, then maybe I'll be willing to live with some of the little problems, like the squeaks around the doorframe (the rubber part) that are becoming more noticeable as the weather gets warmer...
My real issue - timing belt on the 94 Maxima. I had a safety inspection done - suggests a replacement of the timing belt @ 60-70k miles running in the area of $450. Dealer selling car states - preventative maintanance no big thing not needed on a Maxima til 90+ k miles.
Am I getting my chain jerked here by the dealer? So to bone up, anyone able to lead me to a listing on the web of expected wear & tear on a Maxima at the 60/80/100k mile markers?
One preventive maintance thing you want to get done is the transmission fluid. Have the drain plug removed (to clean the magnet on the plug), and then have the rest of the fluid in the torque converter changed (full fluid exchange about 8 qts.) Get it refilled with synthetic ATF (Mobil 1 is available all over, about $5 a quart). When this is being done, it would be a good idea to also have a seperate transmission cooler installed. If you don't at least get a full fluid change, the transmission will be on borrowed time once you go past 100k miles. Even if it costs $200 (full fluid exhange with synthetic and cooler), it's 1/10th the cost of a transmission job.
Thanks so much for the solenoid explanation. It all makes sense now!
1. While driving the car I red lined the engine not realizing how high the rpm were the car red lined to about 7 then it jolted forward and when i realized it and I shifted to the next gear. Must confess I do drive the car hard. Will this create any problems in the engine?
2. What is the break in period? My car has 1100 miles.
Will appreciate a reply from anyone.
Thanks alot for the helpful info. Maybe I should look into the owners manual more often.
joe830
Can anyone help?
Got it all. Nice site
The car has 97000 miles and was religiously maintained at the dealer it was purchased from.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Mark
I own a maxima GLE 97. I got a question here about the alarm system.
Does anyone know how to reprogram the alarm system/keyless entry?
Thanks.
By the way, the '90 Maxima has been a very good auto, otherwise, with no major problems and 173K. The '94 (72K) has been a disappointment with transmission overhaul, and replaced tie-rods, ball joints, 2 window motors, water pump, rear window heater switch, etc. However, both are fun to drive as the suspension and steering are very stable and responsive.
BigJoeMax
http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/eleclight.htm
just go to the section that deals with the amp hookup, I am quite sure this setup will work in your car...dont take my word for it, I am no expert in car audio, but I know a lot about home audio, and much of it is similar. The setup detailed in that FAQ senses the audio signal from the rear speaker which powers up the amp and gets the sub going. its worth the try...
tamtoro: There is a FAQ on the following website that details the programming for the keyless remotes: http://web2.airmail.net/scutchen/max_faq/maintenance.htm
this is for the 4th gen maximas, but it may work with 5 generation...its worth the try it would probably take 5 mins to do. if it doesnt work and you have a 5th generation max, definately take it back to the dealer and just have them do it, and have them show you how to do it. Most dealers are courteous enough to spend at least this much time with you.
RichIITF: I have a 97 I30t (similar to the max, and same engine) and I too have a vibration in the seat and steering wheel as you describe...mostly in R or D when the headlights and foglights are on. A friends 2K max did not have the vibrations I was experiencing...but his did have very very light sensations in the wheel which would be expected and which are normal. I have had the EGR, BPT valve and exhaust manifold changed out, which slightly improved the situation. Maybe your base idle is set too low...have the dealer adjust and set both the BASE and TARGET idle speeds just to make sure.
Any experience would be helpful.