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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • univmdunivmd Member Posts: 3
    I have a Maxima 97 too, with 140,000 miles. Trouble free from 0 to 140,000 miles until this year. SES light came on. Replaced the evap control module. Light went out. After two months, the light came on again. Codes relating to transmission control module, engine knock, and throttle contol came up. 3 codes. Car is fine, except on some days, car will seem to stall but doesn't, at the first stoplight of the day. Regular mechanic said that I can ignore the engine knock code since it will be very hard to fix. But he said that I need to take the car into the dealership to get the transmission's computer checked and maybe replaced? Diagnosis at the dealership will cost $140. I am willing to fix this car, but I am wondering what you would do? Drive the car into the ground without doing anything? Or get a diagnosis and fix the car immediately? --jAmEs
  • bigstorybigstory Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Maxima and I had the same experience in that just the other day my ABS warning light came on. I checked the local repair shop and they want $139 just to look at it. I am trying to search were I can buy the ABS control module myself and install it. I would also need to know where the module is located in the car. Any experience in knowing what the warning light really means?
  • debbie731debbie731 Member Posts: 10
    I wish I would've read your message before buying my 2005 Maxima. I can't sit in my car at all - I've tried everything and essentially I am now driving my husband's car because I can't sit in my car at all. Sad to say I'll never buy a Nissan again. I've never had this experience before.
  • magdocjrmagdocjr Member Posts: 3
    To anyone that can help:

    I have a 2000 Max SE with a bad attitude. It drives like it has a mind of its own. It does not matter how fast or slow I am driving and when I need to accelerate it refuses. I would say it is starving for gas. The SES light came on, I took it to a dealer for diagnostics. Replaced O2 sensors and said it was 100% ok. The said that with the O2 sensors were the cause of the problem. A week after having them replaced the car is doing the same thing. If anyone knows where I need to start looking please let me know. Thank you.
  • victord1victord1 Member Posts: 94
    Hello all Maxima experts and fans. My '03 Maxima is approaching 36,000 mile, and I'm thinking of having the 37,500 mile schedule maintenance done. Is there anything I should watch for or tell the dealer to do?? Besides the O2 sensor and the gas tank cut-off sensor which were replaced under warranty, the car has not given me any problem.

    I want to to care of any possible future problems before the warranty period expires. I welcome any suggestions. Thanks.

    One more thing. The cabin air filter: should I let the dealer change it (and charge $200+) or change it myself and save the money?
  • univmdunivmd Member Posts: 3
    To continue with my story, I took my 1997 Nissan Maxima 140,000 miles to the dealer today to get the SES light checked. He said there were two codes, the throttle control code and the engine knock code. He reset the light and said no problem with either. Also no problem with the transmission control module like my other mechanic believed. So everything is fine now. He said warming up the car a little before driving off will help with mysterious near-stalling problem on some days, but he could not recreate the near-stalling at the shop. So that's that. My car is fine now with no SES light. But I'm sure it will come back on again in a couple of weeks. The dealer said that he could replace the knock sensor for $485, just because it's old, but I think I will pass. Wondering if mechanic would be willing to turn it off completely or at least make it ignore the knock sensors. Hmmm. He also told me that he could clean the battery terminals for me for $55. I passed. I heard that it is easy to do at home, using Coca Cola, anybody clean their own terminals before? --jAmEs
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Use a premium gas, if you are, then try adding a can of BG44K into your fuel tank. In my experience with hesitation, this stuff really works. Not only it stops hesitations but can also stop knocking and pinging, and also rough idling. You can get this at your nissan dealership just by asking for it. Costs about $15 a can, its a little bit of an expensive fuel cleaner product, but i guess you get what you pay for.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Same problem here about 4 months ago. After check engine light went on, i took it to the shop to replace oil pan, gaskets, and sensors. Afterwards, light was still on. But, a couple days later, AFTER HITTING A HARD BUMP DRIVING UP THE ROAD, the light suddenly went out. Weird stuff eh?
  • bkswardbksward Member Posts: 93
    wish I would've read your message before buying my 2005 Maxima. I can't sit in my car at all - I've tried everything and essentially I am now driving my husband's car because I can't sit in my car at all. Sad to say I'll never buy a Nissan again. I've never had this experience before.

    So you're saying that someone else who said that the car seat was uncofortable after 10 minutes of driving would have stopped you from buying? (A message that was posted over 6 months ago.)

    Did you test drive the car before buying? I test drove a Saturn before buying a Maxima. Within 1 minute I realized that the seat cushion was the right length for a 5'4" woman, not a 6' guy...

    So you blame Nissan for making a car that you can't get comfortable in that you bought? Why would you buy a car you couldn't adjust the seats to a cofortable position in? A friend of mine didn't buy a Mazda 6 because he couldn't get the side mirrors into a suitable position for his driving position...
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    Before I buy a car I always test drive it for at least 30 minutes. ( Is that the salesman I hear screaming , lol ) . Back in 1999, Acura came out with a new TL and Nissan came out with its 5th gen. Maxima. I wanted a TL sooo bad I could taste it ,HOWEVER, after 20 min. of driving the car my back hurt. I went to 5 different dealers and drove 5 different TL's.......same problem. My 'back' and the TL seat were incompatible. That's life !!! I didn't buy a TL. I bought the Max which fit me like a glove!

    You would be amazed at how many people buy cars un-driven and sight unseen.
    Look at the '05 Ford Mustang GT. It's virtually impossible to find one on a dealer lot, BUT, people are ordering them so fast that Ford's production can't keep up with demand. How many of these people have driven a Mustang GT ?? Darn few !!!
  • magdocjrmagdocjr Member Posts: 3
    Nissan did the carbon flush and the 60k major service at the same time they replaced the O2 sensors. The SES came back on and has been on since. Yes, I always use premium gas even though the prices are going through the roof. The engine will not rev past ~4200 rpm either; it acts like it wants to but will not. If you have any more ideas let me know please.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    Per the hesitation, did you have the plugs checked? Even though they're supposed to be 100k, I've heard many enthusiasts say they need to change every 60-80k for optimal performance. Also, what about the MAF sensor? I've heard that's a very common cause for the 5th gen maxis to perform sub-par. Try the other message board, maxima.org, and look around their 5th gen forums. You need input from the experts over there on the approach to take. That's just my .02 of course. Not that there aren't experts surfing this board, there's just a whole other level of detail going on over there due to modification freaks.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Also, make sure if you have a clogged up, dirty air filter; it can cause hesitations also.
  • danmandandanmandan Member Posts: 1
    I have an 89 maxima w/ only 295k. Just started to have idle problems in the morning when I first start the car. Runs fine until you have to stop, then car has a hard time staying running. Does this until the car warms up, then no problem. Idle control valve? Cylinder Temp. sensor? can anyone help? Thanks.
  • white96maximawhite96maxima Member Posts: 3
    Where can I get a Factory Service Manual for my 1996 Maxima? What would be the price range? Is there any place to get this besides Nissan?
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Do you mean an Owner's Manual? You're in luck, because here's a link to the manual... it has manuals from 1996 to 2005.
    http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-manual/
  • white96maximawhite96maxima Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, but I mean FACTORY SERVICE manual.
  • debbie731debbie731 Member Posts: 10
    You give some solid advise and I will never buy a car again w/o at least a test drive of continual driving for 30 minutes. I would have re-considered the car if I found someone found the seats uncomfortable due to hardness -but there is really no review that speaks of seat comfort that I have found. I checked the edmunds regular review site and everyone pretty much loved the car. I test drove the car three separate times and had no problem; each test drive was for 10-15 minutes. Interestingly I also drive the new TL since I was ending a lease on my old one which I love(d). I drove that car for 10 minutes (same drive as the Maxima by the way since the dealers are down the street from each other) and found the seat incredibly uncomfortable. I went back and test drove the TL again, with the same response; which is why I was looking at other cars. Having never had a problem with any seat in any car and we own a Nissan Sentra-which is my daughter's but I drive also -I never really thought that a seat could be so incompatible that a person could not be able to drive the car. I am by the way not alone in this as I have now found a number of people who have had this problem only with the Maxima seats. We are all different shapes and sizes so it doesn't make sense to me. Perhaps our "lot" of car seats was made differently?
  • debbie731debbie731 Member Posts: 10
    Do you think that I am a complete idiot or what? I find your response to be demeaning and offensive. I think that roar1's response was more productive - that people should test drive a car at least 30 minutes prior to purchase and to heck with the salesperson and the 15 minute test drive. I drove this car three times with no problems, researched it on the regular edmunds site and others for consumer ratings and read every review about it - so I did my homework. If it took me 1 minute to know I couldn't get comfortable I wouldn't have bought the car. The problem is that it took over 30 minutes to realize this - when I drove a long distance with it after I had already purchased it. And to answer your hypothetical question, yes if I had read a review or reviews that people were finding the seat hard and uncomfortable after driving the car for a distance I would have insisted on a longer test drive. Given that I have driven many different cars and models with and without power seats and never had a problem it did not occur to me that a car with an 8 way power driver seat with multiple positions and a power passenger seat as well would be incompatable in any position for sitting in this car for over 30 minutes.
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    dude if you dont even know where it is on the car you cant put it on by your self
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    just a bit of advice a knock sensor will not turn on your check engine light
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    do you know what wd/40 is
  • nissantech8yrnissantech8yr Member Posts: 18
    from the ecm
  • shmameshmame Member Posts: 1
    i have a '91 maxima and we cannot get the trunk to work. neither the keypad, the trunk release button, or the key will work.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    I have 97 Maxima 108K miles and recently the SES light came up, turned out to be knock sensor. The repair guy estimated $300, I passed.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    My 97 Maxima's fan switch developed a problem. The fan does'nt start when knob is on positions 1,2 and 3. It starts only of '4', which is like getting gale force wind in the cabin. I am thinking of repairing it myself as I figure it should be as simple as either soldering the connections in the knob OR replacing it.

    My only concern how do I remove the knob?. Do I just pop out the plastic case that houses it and other knobs by jimmying it with a scewdriver ? Did anyone did it before. I'll appreciate a reply.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    See post #2643
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Running with the bad knock sensor will negatively affect your gas mileage and engine performance (read horsepower). The part cost about $160, and the job is labor intensive, if you do it by the book, so $300 does not sound too bad. However, there's a shortcut that's documented elsewhere on the web. If you are mechanically inclined and have small hands (important for this job), you should be able to do it.
  • guadvasguadvas Member Posts: 2
    Hey guys, the actual adjustment is" Idle stop screw" adjustment. The adjusting screw is located above the big spring on the left side of the throttle body. It has a locknut on it and is adjusted using a star wrench.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    Thanks my friend. This is what I was looking for.
  • gchu5gchu5 Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    I recently bought new 2005 Nissan Maxima. Experimenting with the 92 vs. 89 octane gasoline. What I noticed was that if I were to use Shell 89 octane gasoline, the fuel mileage ranges from 21 to 30 mpg, which is expected depending upon whether I am on city or highway drive.

    To my biggest surprise is the Shell 92 V-power gasoline. I could never get the high-way mileage up to 23.7 mpg, from Seattle to Vancouver, travelling at 65 miles per hour cruise speed.

    Any theory as to why this is?
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I do not know why BUT i would just stick with the mid-grade 89 octane gasoline since you're getting better mileage off of it. The manual recommends 91 or higher, but it also said that you can use 87 octane. Personally, I would just use V-Power (because of its high additives for fuel cleaning) occasionally for tuneup purposes.
  • gchu5gchu5 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Highroller.

    Shell's V-Power 92 octane gasoline claims to have 5 times more detergents than the federal regulation specifies. It also claims to boost performance. However, I looked up my Nissan auto manual. The manual says to avoid gasolines with high detergent. Not sure who is right.
  • gchu5gchu5 Member Posts: 5
    Another thing that I noticed was that when using 92 octane gasoline, revving engine becomes a lot easier. In fact, I had to consciously not to overstep in order not to revv engine in high 3 ~ 4 thousand RPM range in lower gears (1st and 2nd gear).

    Is this normal? This is the first time that I own a performance car (a new 2005 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE). I am not sure if what I observe is expected.

    I also noticed that when using 89 or less octane gasoline, it is not as easy to revv the engine in lower gears, as say, using 92 octane gasoline.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I don't remember anything about avoiding gasolines with high detergent. I do know that some new models like your car would suggest not using fuel injectors, etc. I would only say that if your manual says not to use fuel with high amounts of additvies, then you should follow your manual, it's always the best advice. Now personally for me, I would never use lower than a 89 octane. If you keep using 89 and notice pinging or knock noises, switch to premium for a couple of applications, though i believe it'll be rare. Even though the prices for gas is off the roof, premium fuel is always the best for our cars because higher octane burns more SLOWLY thats why high compression cars like ourselves need these premium fuels. Now it doesn't hurt to go from premium back down to 89, you're just not running as good and powerful as you could be. Using the recommended premium fuel, it causes slower burn allowing the gas to be more resistant to pressure, meaning it can be compressed more before it explodes on its own without the spark. If you degrade from 92 to 89, it CAN to a point cause your ECU to notice the degraded octane and retard timing, thus less power output and sluggish pedal feet. Remember to use only Top Tier Gas: you can find these gas at Shell, QuickTrip, Chevron,etc. www.toptiergas.com
  • mirthmirth Member Posts: 1,212
    My '02 Max stalled out on the way home a few days ago. Turns out that they have to replace the mass air flow sensor - to the tune of $800. Ouch. Naturally I'm just out of warranty - 3 yrs, 2 months and 41,000 miles. Pretty hefty bill for a pretty young car. I'm not too happy about it.

    But anyway, the symptoms were that it would start up and then almost immediately stall out, in case anyone else encounters it.
  • charliekcharliek Member Posts: 3
    There is a Technical Service Bulletin put out by Nissan for the 2004 Maxima, 04-085, that says how they are supposed to fix the shimmy. It involves match mounting the tires and then match mounting them to the hubs. I finally had it with them and was going to go to a Lemon Law. The car is now in the shop. Nissan engineers came out and think the only way to solve the problem is to replace the whole front end steering with a 2005 steering rack which they are doing with factory techs today. You have to get on these people or they will blow you off. The service rep. tried to tell me it was a high performance car and that all of them have a shimmy.
  • ggaudreauggaudreau Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just had a complete overhaul done on my rear breaks for my Maxima 2004 after less than 27000 miles, break pads, discs, 485$ worth!

    Has anyone ever had this issue?

    Thanks

    Guy
    :(:(:(
  • hound97hound97 Member Posts: 22
    Anyone know where the jack points would be on a 2001 maxima if I juse a hydraulic floor jack rather than the factory jack? My hydraulic jack has basically a small deep plate so it won't match up with the recommended jack points.
  • streetlewisstreetlewis Member Posts: 1
    I too have experienced the mysterious bumping/vibration pulse sensation at stoplights in my 99 Maxima SE at 57,000 miles. In my experience the problem occurs when the car is in reverse or drive and is worst when the air conditioner is running. I have had it checked several professional technicians and none will give me a straight answer as to the exact cause. Two months ago, I had a service engine light come on after experiencing the problem for several weeks. The code indicated a bad rear O2 sensor which I replaced myself. Thankfully, I have not experienced the vibration problem after replacing the O2 sensor. Before that, it was driving me crazy! Does anyone know for sure if a bad O2 sensor could cause these vibration pulses? It appears from my surfing that this problem is not unusual for Maximas of this vintage. It seems like someone out there should know by now exactly what this problem is by now! Please share your wisdom!
  • mems4mems4 Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering how you made out with 800-Nissan1. I am having trouble with O2 sensors code p0141. I had them replaced and the computer reprogrammed. Then the SES returned the next day. They dealer said it was a "ghost" code and to call if it comes on again. Sure enough, the next day it came back on. They replaced the O2 sensors again but still the SES light comes back. Now they want to start looking into the wiring harness, etc, to see why the trouble won't go away. I am fearful this will never end.
  • magdocjrmagdocjr Member Posts: 3
    Air filter is inspected and cleaned (if needed) every 3k miles. Over kill for a K&N but it is habit.
  • gtgraygtgray Member Posts: 22
    I had to have my front rotors turned down when I had new pads installed at just under 25,000 miles on my '04. Isn't it strange to have the rears go so early?....before the fronts?

    - G
  • cdndctxcdndctx Member Posts: 1
    I 'am having a similar problem with dim lights and no juice in the Battery. The terminal that goes into the alternator is cracked and I need to replace the wiring harness. It says I have to remove the alternator to do that, is that correct and what will I have to remove to get at the altenator? I have AC.

    Thanks Marc
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    I have the same starting problem with my 05 SE.... it won't start on first try - intermittently, but normally starts on 2nd or 3rd or 4th try. Dealer agrees that it should start on 1st time, everytime. However, after several trips, they can't get any codes or replicate problem.

    I'm ready to have them start replacing parts, either the Throttle Position Sensor or the Fuel Pump is my first guess.

    I agree that its disappointing and embarassing to have a brand new car and have troubles starting it.

    Also, I'm not to impressed with the whole drivetrain on the Maxima.... doesn't shift smoothly most of time, vibrations at idle, torque steer is bad when you get on it.

    Sitting looking at it, it looks nice though!!!

    Keep me posted on your progress.
  • asantosasantos Member Posts: 1
    Need help please regarding SES light on.

    I have an '02 SE w/ 63K miles. Auto Zone diagnosed my SES light as:
    P0139 (Bank 1) HO2S2 (Rear) (Response Monitoring).

    My questions are:
    1. How severe is my problem?
    2. I've looked at numerous Maxima forums and I can't find how to change them.
    3. When I've looked at Bosch 02 sensors, it lists them as before or after the Cat. I can't tell which one mine is. Ive looked at a diagram provided by NTB and I still can't tell.
    4. Should I change all 4 of them as suggested by my mechanic or dealerships or should I just change the affected one? I do plan to change them myself as to not get ripped by labor charges.
    PLEASE HELP. Thanks!
  • blackstone3blackstone3 Member Posts: 29
    I was interested to see who has the highest miles on there 2000 Maxima. I am just curious to see the longevity of the engine for that model year. I only have 52000 miles on my SE. Thanks.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I have 179,000 miles on my '96 SE Maxima, but the engine was rebuilt due to leaks and other problems...
  • pat517pat517 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I just saw today a Nissan Altima selling at $5500 for 84000K. It looks good, great pick up but it makes noise when I accelerate...it sound loud as I am driving. Now the previous owner never had the timing belt changed...so that could be it. And the car starts in Neutral...he told me that is a safety issue...and told me that after I told him I was interested....but I never heard of that before....he is the 2 owner so he doesn't have full knowledge of the car either....he has had it for 6 mths and has changed the routers and brakes....Please help...is it worth it?

    Thanks

    Pat
  • 2k2gle2k2gle Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I just bought a 2002 GLE with 25000 miles on it. The car is in great shape and I feel I got a good deal on the sale. However I have warped rotors and the car acts like its out of alighnment. Both issues are covered by the independent dealer I bought the car from. The dealer is going to resurface the rotors and they swear the alignment is dead on. I have a few questions:
    1. I am a pretty good mechanic. Should I just spend the $150 - 200 on a new set of rotors and pads and just forget about the warpage hassle? All the dealer will do is resurface the rotors and slap it back together. I know on our Jeep that Chrysler had a "fix" $400 later and the issue is solved! Does Nissan have any suggestions?
    2. Does anyone experience the alignment issue? Ive checked everything I can think of including tire pressure. ITS NOT STRAIT!!
    3. Should I spend the money on an extended warranty or not? We bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 years ago and the warranty is almost paid for itself. Any thoughts on this one? It sounds as though the Maximas are plagued with all sorts of ECM and other electical issues.

    Any help or insight would be greatly appreicated. Thanks in advance.
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