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I picked up a spindle at Best Buy last night and will be looking online for more of these to keep the originals at home and let the copies be subject to the heat and kids fingers.
Any help appreciated
I completely lost the cold or warm air, i checked the fan motor and it is working, i also checked all the fuses and they are working, I also checked the resistor beside the blower and I found out that there is power going to the blower. I also installed
a new blower and I got nothing.
Can anyone help me, please send me an e-mail if you can.
Angelo
It is best to keep the discussion right here so everyone can benefit.
You may also want to ask your question in the GMC Envoy Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning discussion.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Cheers!
Hope this helps!!
Thanks,
jd
ken z
I found this that shows the max tow capacity of the 2006 Envoy as 6600# which would fall into the Class IV range. Probably depends on engine and gear ratio, of course assume it requires the Tow Package:
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/viewArticle.action?site=34042
Class 1 (Class I) hitch
Trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight.
Class 2 (Class II) hitch
Trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight.
Class 3 (Class III) hitch
Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Also sometimes used to refer to a hitch with any 2" receiver, regardless of rating.
Class 4 (Class IV) hitch
Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Although many times any hitch with a capacity greater than 5,000 lbs gross weight is referred to as a Class 4.
Just to advise my wife & I bought a 2009 Montana EWB van approx 6 weeks ago. Yes. Fresh off my local GM dealer's lot - along with a huge final discounts (compared to other mini-van companies). This GM van isn't as physically large as our previous 2001 Safari van but it's got much better "take off" and much better "braking power". And, it's much funner to drive - compared to our previous "bulk" size Safari van. And with newer technology engine, our smaller Montana van gets much better MPGs. For "long haul" family vacation trips, we'll tow a little 4 x 6 utility trailer - for our suit cases and stuff (since inside storage volume has been dramatically reduced).
For a picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w251/Spike99-Pictures/Montana%20Van/Van-Small- - - -Trailer-Stance-1.jpg
Was thinking of replacing our Safari van with an Envoy XL I6 but the gas prices keep going up and up in my area. And, my family no longer tows heavy weight utility trailers. After "the math" several times, our new Montana van will cost much less. And during a 10 year period, its gas savings will almost pay for itself...
Just wanted to provide an update...
.
Won't crank and does nothing. I try for 2-5 minutes - remove the key - raise and lower the steering wheel as I think it might be a loose ignition switch wire ... but nothing. The WHAM - it will start and act fine for a couple of days then it happens again.
Any techs out there that know of this problem?
ken z
P S the switch was only about $40.00 from the dealer if I remember correctly
C.B.
Guess I really didn't need spend 2 hours to install that hub assmbly but from looking at some of the posts here at least it's done!
Keeping the tires rotated on a regular basis really helps. The fronts will wear on the edges much more than the rears. Regular rotation will help a lot to keep the wear more even.
ken z
1) Brakes have been "checked" each rotation; so far they have said no problem. Is it unusual to go 7 years/79,000 mi. with no brake tuneup? How long these normally go before they need new pads/ rotor turned?
2) What about belts and hoses? How long do these usually last before people have been changing for new ones?
3) Coolant, transmission fluid, air filter up-to-date and not due.
4) Should I get new axle fluid? It's never been changed.
5) Factory tires are still doing OK at 79,000.
Thanks for suggestions.
The electric brakes aren't working. The light on the controller is not on when hooked up to the camper. Camper turn signals, taillights, etc all work fine; just no brakes.
One person told me that it probably needed a fuse...but info here has said the fuse/battery connection is unrelated to the electric brakes.
Any ideas or thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
If it's not working then either it's not detecting the braking by the tow vehicle, not properly connected to the trailer's brakes, or isn't wired correctly, or has gone out. There quite typically is a fuse in the main line that supplies current to the trailer brakes, since it's usually wired directly to a 12V source. It could be an inline block type fuse (30Amp). The controller itself is probably fused also. The camper lights don't have anything to do with it, they are different circuits.
ken z
Turned out the 30 amp fuse under the hood was blown. Replaced the fuse and now everything is good. I should have checked this first; but I had misunderstood some previous postings on the subject....thinking a fuse was not involved with the electric brake circuit.
Thank you so much for the help,
Mike
Other than that, my 2002 just hit 109k. Never had belts changed, after I asked the mechanic to look at them, he said not to bother, all the other stuff you mentioned i did for the first time at 100k, except for air filter.
been such a low maintanence vehicle.
the only issues were redoing the brakes around 70k, got screwed by midas on that.
had two rear shocks replaced at 100k for cheap.
of course my fan clutch is LOUD, but the mechanic said it would prob cost $400-$500 and even then he couldn't guarantee the new one wouldn't do teh same thing.
Before you do that though, is the knock a loud metal to metal sound, or is it more like a click? And is it worse when the engine is cold or when it's warmed up?
P0014 Camshaft position actuator
P0014 Timing over advanced
P1345 Manufacturer Ignition system or misfire
Any ideas?? might as well be french to me....thanks for all your help!!
My wife's 2006 which has 50K mikes on it - is burning way too much oil - about a quart every 1500 miles. There are no leaks or drips on our garage floor and I don't see any blue smoke coming from the exhaust. We regularly get the oil changed every 6,000 miles
My 2007 Rainer (35,000 miles) - uses a bit less - a quart every 2000 miles.
Is there a known problem with these V8 GM engines used in the Rainers? Any possible warranty claims?
What solutions do any of you techs have to stop the oil usage?
Never changed your transmission fluid? Check it hot per the instructions in the owners manual. If it is brown or tinged brown, change the transmission fluid to add years and miles to the life of your transmission.
Change axle fluid per the owners manual recommendations. There really isn't any indicator otherwise except to keep the level up to spec.
Any thoughts on the sensibility of replacing the front Bilstein shocks that came stock with the Bravada and some of its sisters.
I have all my servicing done at a major dealer, so I'm surprised they haven't tried to push brake pads on me yet. They always try to push something so they might this time. I'll ask them about it specifically. No one is better on brake life than me, however I have no teenagers or women drivers, so they last a lot longer even on other vehicles. I suspect when I ask the dealer, he'll want to replace them--kinda like asking the barber if you need a haircut Do they usually "turn rotors" on these vehicles as well?
Yes, I've changed the transmission fluid once (not the filter), at the dealer, using the "exchange" method at around 55,000. Next time I change it, I may have them do the the "drop pan" and new filter, etc. Is that what most people do, or do they continue using the exchange method over and over?
The dealer will probably try to push "fuel injector" treatment, but I run some powerful stuff through mine at intervals. Sometimes Techron, sometimes RedLine Engine Cleaner. Do people recommend the dealer fuel injector treatments? I have a Pontiac with 150,000 miles that has never had a dealer fuel treatment, just the ones I give it.
Thanks.