The problem with it not starting, is it that the key gets stuck or does it start to turn over and just not start? The first couple of weeks I had mine, on occassion the key simply wouldn't turn all the way to the start position, the cure for that is to turn the steering wheel till it releases. Otherwise, it could be the dealer forgot to charge up the battery or maybe left it sit with something turned on. I've had that happen when test driving cars before, new and used alike. Also, another thing to avoid is pressing on the accelerator when starting the engine, this is a no-no on these newer cars. This is hard to get used to, especially if you are used to the older cars that you had to press the accelerator to "set the choke" before starting.
The owners manual does a pretty good job explaining how to drive with the standard tranny, but there really is no substitute for practice. Just take it to an empty lot somewhere and just practice stopping and starting, it will take a bit and don't get frustrated, the main thing to remember when first starting out is to "ease out" on the clutch while you slightly depress the accelerator, in the beginning. Once you figure out the coordination between accelerator and clutch, then you can do it faster. And until you get used to it, AVOID stopping on "up" hills with traffic behind you! That can be a real problem! Especially with a beginner. If it can't be avoided, don't be ashamed to use the emergency brake (SLIGHTLY!) for assistance, to avoid coasting backward into a car behind you.
You are a new parent here have a cigar;) I can attest to stalling mine several times the first month. The feel of the clutch was so much more different than my 1989 Mazda p/u.
Now as you get used to that, the big question that you are faced with is delaying gratification and keeping it in the parameters of the break-in-period!
The lights coming on every time the engine is started are the daytime running lights (DRL's). They keep your lights on at a lower wattage for "safety". I personally think they are annoying. If you keep your parking break on, they will stay off while you start your car. Also, if you really dislike them, there are ways to disconnect this feature (look on i-club, or some other WRX sites).
As far as the parking light button on top of the steering column, this allows you to have your lights on while the ignition is off. Since the Impreza has auto-off headlights, this is the only way to have some lights on, while your engine is off. If you were to leave this on, this would drain your battery.
Enjoy your new car. I have 700 mules on mine and can't wait until a 1,000 so I can open her up!
... To answer a few questions that were asked: Yes, the clutch was pushed in totaly when i tried to start it up those few times that it wouldn't start. Yes, the key was in all the way (it wasn't locked like when the steering wheel is turned to the side). Yes, I was "cranking" it - however no typical clicking sound from the starter when there is a limited amount of juice, BUT I was getting the "Check Engine" light to shine (I do not remember if that light comes on the other "normal" times that I stalled the car or not). Also, the sales guy did already warn me about the switch above the steering wheel - some black electrical tape will soon be covering that - however I am FAIRLY (but not 100%) sure that I had not hit it. I actually was wondering WHY that switch was there (since even the sales person didn't know the reason), until I read the manual and saw that SUPPOSEDLY the car will NOT let you leave your lights on after the ignition has been turned off - the only way to get teh lights on while the car is off is to hit that button. At least thats what I THOUGHT I read - after my earlier scare today, I was not about to test it to see if it would turn the headlights off, after I pulled the key out.
Back to the Standard tranny issue (sorry if I am asking 2 many questions). Is it ME, or is 1st pretty darn hard to get into? Like I do not know if it is because of my inexperience, or if the shifter in this car way more notchy than most?? (I had previously testdrove the RSX/ Cougar/ Stratus coupe and they all seemed to be smoother than the WRX, ESPESIALLY the RSX, VERY sweet action). I mostly have to 'wiggle-it' into 1st - seems like that works best (also, would the short-shifter that you can buy from Subaru help solve that notchy fealing, or what?). Also, in the Manual, I believe reading that at stoplights, it is not recommended to keep the car in gear, but to shift it into nueatral, and let off the clutch. Is that true, or is that one of those things that they recommend but that no one does (kinda like checking your tire pressure EVERYTIME you go for a drive - give me a break)? Also, do most people just "roll" through Stopsigns while still in 2nd gear, or are you REALLY supposed to drop into 1st? And is 1st gear really JUST for starting from a total dead stop, or does it just seem that way?
OK, well once again, sorry 4 all the questions - but for me its not just a new car, but a new tranny also. Oh, and yea, I have been a "good boy" and kept the revs down below 4K - less than 24hrs, and 3 guys wanted to race (a Neon, an Intrga & an RX-7), but I did not give into temptation... just 1650 miles to go, just 1650 miles to go...
I have never liked DRLs - I am surprised I had not seen it in the manual. Well, I definitly plan on changing that - I'll look to see which fuse I gotta pull to get rid of those as soon as its warm enough to stay outside for more than 10 mins.
I've had mine about one month now. I just passed the break-in period two days ago. I had problems of it not starting the first week. I would turn the key and get absolutely nothing. Then I would wait, try again and it would start like nothing was wrong. I finally realized that the problem was the clutch was pushed in 95% of the way, but not ALL the way when this happened. The clutch always felt like it was fully depressed, but actually wasn't. I fixed the problem by adjusting the seat forward one notch and haven't had the problem since.
Hey, if thats ALL it was, then that would be great - and a load of worry off my mind. ok, Stomp on the clutch next time I stall it (and i KNOW there will be a next time - unfortunately).
I think I'll take a shot at Hazdaz' queries: --"Is it ME, or is 1st pretty darn hard to get into?" It IS a little hard to get into, expecially while you're rolling. My advice is, don't force it in, or wiggle it in, just gently, and patiently push the gear knob into first. The synchronizor appears to take a little time to work, so just be a little patient. You'll see after a few tries this way, that it does indeed slip into first without you having to force it in. --"Is the shifter in this car way more notchy than most?" Yes, it is notchier than other cars I've driven. It's a matter of taste, really. I like it. And after about 10,000 miles, my shifter got much smoother. I kind of miss the neat feel of snikt-ing it into gears. My former car was a Maxima, and not only were the throws very long, there was just no feel to it at all, lacking any fun. I haven't driven an RSX (yet), but the feel of Honda/Acura manual trnasmissions seem to set the standard. -- "I believe reading that at stoplights, it is not recommended to keep the car in gear, but to shift it into nueatral, and let off the clutch. Is that true?" To save wear and tear on your transmission, you are supposed to be in neutral at stops. I do this all the time. And I live in NYC where I have to stop at every block. Keep in mind that there's more stress on an AWD drivetrain than a 2WD's. I think you said it's your first manual. The joy of driving a manual tranmission, IMO, is that you are much more involved in the driving process than an auto trans. Dropping it in and out of neutral at lights as a part of it. --"Also, do most people just "roll" through Stopsigns while still in 2nd gear, or are you REALLY supposed to drop into 1st? And is 1st gear really JUST for starting from a total dead stop, or does it just seem that way?" Let me guess, these were the moments when you stalled out, right? I used to be able to take these shortcuts in my Maxima, but I can't with the WRX. First, there's the lack of low-end torque, especially while in that very tall second gear. Second, the AWD system seems to require a lot more power to get it moving from a stop. And you're not going to get that power while in second gear. I'll admit, I do occasionally roll through a stop sign in second gear and speed up, but at those times, I'm never in a rush and only give it a little gas to roll thru the RPMs slowly.
I'm also a firm believer that people who drive manual transmissions generally get involved in less accidents, simply because it requires the driver to actively DRIVE and constantly moniter road conditions. (With the exception of Paisan, of course. ;-])
On the subject of whether or not to put the gear shift in neutral at a stop sign... I think it depends on the stop sign. I think it's more a matter of preference but where I live, stop signs are pretty much stop and go, stop lights are another matter, ours are for the most part pretty quick to change, I know most of the larger cities have longer lights (A lot more traffic). If you are just stopping and going I just kinda dissengage, stop, put it in 1st, and go. If I'm at a long light then by all means take it out of gear. If you just hold the clutch in, it will not hurt or wear the transmission, it's dissengaged, however it could cause excessive wear on the throw-out-bearing and clutch springs. But no longer than a stop light is, I doubt that it really matters one way or the other. It's probably more of a comfort thing than anything else. When a clutch is engaged even with the tranny in neutral, you will have gears spinning inside the transmission, so it's a trade off the way I see it. One way or the other something is turning as long as the engine is running. Now that's just the way I was taught, and that was a LONG time ago.
I thought the break-in was just 1000 miles??? I wonder if the car magazines wait for the break-in period when they test them? Or do they only get them after they are already broke in?
I think it's best to hold it down as much as possible though. Except is cases of emergency. Like when those big rigs come barreling down on you, and you just have to get out of their way!
seems like an arbitrary figure the manufacturers want us to follow--I've heard there's nothing really magical about 1000 mi--that you should still take it kind of easy for a while longer, maybe spinning the engine up to 6000rpm or so. I never really red-lined mine until 3000mi. But again, it depends on how long you want your Rex to last--if you are on a 3-year lease, when a thousand hits, might as well let her rip --RA
Just be careful to be able to re-connect your DRLs on your WRX if you have an Anal-inspection state. 2002 MY requires all US cars to have DRLs IIRC, and they may hammer you @ inspection for it.
While we're on the topic of disconnects, Does anyone know if it's possible to disconnect the Anti-lock breaking system on the WRX? I live in Steamboat Springs, CO and am constantly in snow and the antilocks have caused some close calls when I've had to do some emergency breaking forcing me to use the ebrake. The manual even says that antilocks will increase stopping distances in snow/ice. I've never had anti-locks in any of my cars and it's causing issues in this weather.
I'm not aware of whether or not there may be a fuse you pull. If there is, there's probably a good chance the ABS light would stay on.
Are you running stock tires or do you have winter tires on? I know the stock tires are not the best in snow/ice. I live in a snow belt of Michigan and I just bought the snow tire and wheel package out on tire rack a couple of weeks ago. It came with take-off WRX rims and Dunlop Winter M2's. There is only a little bit of decrease in dry-road performance and the snow and ice improvements were huge. I particularly tested my stock tires and then the winter tires right after I put them on (on a strip on snow and ice), and I stopped in a much shorter distance without ABS coming on, where the stock tires lit up the ABS like crazy.
If you plan on keeping your vehicle a long time, winter tires really pay off in keeping a nice set of rims (no salt on them), and the added safety.
Thanks for the responses, espesially the varying opinions on whether to hold in the clutch or not at SOME lights.
Bedabi: I actually have never stalled it while "rolling" though a stopsign while in 2nd (I have only stalled it either in Reverse or going from a dead stop - while in 1st). It actually seems smoother that way to me - atleast for now. Also, my boss is about the only person I know thats ever driven standard (let him drive it a little today), and he just basically said only use 1st if your coming from a total dead stop, if you got some momentum going forward, might as well keep it in 2nd.
On the DRLs issue, how can some inspectors require DRLs for ALL `02MY cars, when GM is bascially the only car company that has them (atleast in THIS country)? Either way, I have never been a huge fan of them, and plan to find a way to get rid of them. I also want to pop in the blue-ish tinted bulbs from my old car into the WRX (and NO, they are not THAT blue, just a little more than "normal" bulbs) - I think blue bulbs are great, and help me see better at night (I had read somewhere that the colors that blue-ish bulbs produce are easier and more natural to the human eye, so you can see a little better with them).
Hey, just out of curiosity, what kind of gas mileage areyou guys getting?
Yes, there's a fuse you can pull and yes, your ABS light will stay on. It's in the owner's manual. Practice using the brakes in snow to get the feel for the spot just before the ABS kicks in (threshold braking)
Here's a link to a site that claims to have the solution to turning off the DRL's. I have no idea if this works or whether it effects any other equipment.
It depends whether you are actually using HID lamps (xenon) or just blue tinted bulbs. Blue tinted bulbs are illegal in most states, as the vehicle code specifies white.
I dont know about the light being more natural (sunlight is white) or easier to see, but they do produce more light with less power than conventional headlamps, thats why they are desirable. If anything, the xenons are more annoying to other drivers than regular lights.
I don't care much for the blue lights, particularly when meeting one coming at me. They may be better if you are driving with them rather than against them. I'd just as soon not blind the other guy and have him drive into my lane. But RED is the easiest color on the eyes, it just doesn't reflect off objects very well. Pontiac has the best dash lights I ever seen with the "orange". Anyway, red is proven to be the easiest on the eyes, all ships use red lights in passages to prevent "night-blindness". Another very interesting thing is "if you are a fisherman" and you ever hunt "nightcrawlers" use a red lens in your flashlight, and you won't scare the critters away, makes it much easier to catch them. I know that has nothing to do with the subject but I thought I would share it with you anyway.
Yeah, I hear you guys, bright red taillights are a pain too if you have to follow them very long on a dark night. Now, with your WRX you can pass them and let them see yours!
The reason that the blue-tinted bulbs are the easiest on the eyes is because it is closer to "natural" light - It basically gives the "look" of dusk, versus pitch black darkness at midnight(I know it doesn't make a whole lot of sence. but that is what I read, and after using them, I do have to admit that my eyes feel better). And actually the bulbs I have ARE legal - because they are slightly tinted blue, and more toward WHITE. I could have bought the REALLY blue ones, but not only do those burn out REALLY fast, but I have also been pulled over cuz of them. Its probably just me, but I HATE yellow-ish lights, they drive my eyes wild, so any tinting to make them either more blue, or more white, the better.
Also, on the comment that they might blind oncoming traffic, if the headlights are aimed properly AND your not using your high-beams, I have not had much problem. I see cars coming at me with either the expensive Xenon lights, or just the tinted bulbs, and it doesn't bother me as much as when I sometimes see a car with yellow/orange foglights - now that just totaly blinds me.
Also going back to the gas mileages you guys have posted, I have to admit that I am a little disapointed. Are your cars automatics (which get a little poorer gas mileage)? I have hoping that since I will be forced to use the more expensive Premium gas, I would be breaking even since I would be getting a little better gas mileage than my last car. I see that that is probably not going to happen - bummer.
I forgot about those yellow fog lights. Haven't seen too many of those lately, they were nasty! Seems like they have pretty gone by the wayside now though, thank goodness!
Guess if you had a pretty good gas mileage car before, you may even see a decrease. (depends a lot on how you drive it.) I had a '98 Dodge Durango before, so my gas mileage pretty much doubled. That wasn't my primary reason for buying the WRX though. But it did help persuade the wife! Hehe! Mine is a 5 speed. Don't feel too bad, I stalled mine at a stop light today, and I've been driving manuals for a lot of years! It just needs a little more gas to start than I'm used to. If you look at the power curve on a WRX, it has to rev higher than a six or eight cylinder job, for both torque, and hp. I grew up with big displacement engines, with which you could drive a half block at idle, before even thinking about having to shift. Yeah, that's a bit exagerated, but almost true.
Hey, for anyone who didn't know (like me) BMW stands for Bavarian Motor Works, not British Motor Works. Just a bit of trivia.
the more you stay in the turbo band (begins at 3k rpm) the less gas mileage you're going to see. Stop and go city traffic and gunning at most every chance will see the mileage at its lowest. The worst I got in this circumstance is a hair less than 16mpg. The best I've seen on a tank that was 75% hwy was just under 25mpg. My advice is not to buy the WRX based on a gas mileage criteria.
and not easier to see with. A tint of any kind on a white filament will decrease the amount of light that you emit, making it harder for you to see. The only legal bluish lights are either HID or something like the GE SuperBlue, which are not really blue, but have a chromatic shift filter that includes more blue light, (its still a white light by SAE standards, which is what NHTSA uses).
The companies that market those fake blue bulbs have done a good job of fooling consumers into thinking that their tinted bulbs are somehow better, when in fact they are worse, more dangerous, and illegal.
Hey, for anyone who didn't know (like me) BMW stands for Bavarian Motor Works, not British Motor Works.
I believe it is Bayerische Motoren Werke, even though BMW is a Bavarian (the region of Germany encompassing cities like Munich) company.... I visit Munich (Muenchen) quite a lot.
Yes, hazdaz, it really is irrelevant, I just thought it's interesting that so many people talk about BMW's all the time, but they didn't know what the letters stand for. (Myself included)
Bayerische Motoren Werke in Deutsch is Bavarian Motor Works in English. You might want to brush up on your Deutsch the next time your in Muenchen. ;-) Danke.
...I know that the English translation also (coincidentally) works out to BMW. But I just pointed out the true non-translated extension of BMW.
Another point is that even if you are not proficient in German, you can get away with English (and maybe a smattering of German) in cities like Munich/Frankfurt. I never really needed to know German while in Munich etc. Neither in hotels, nor while moving around in cabs/trains nor in the workplace. Just a heads-up.
OK, well not like anyone cares, but I'm bored, so I thought I might post a few thoughts I had about the WRX now that I have had it for a few days.
OK, Overall, i really like it. While I still can't rev it too hard, I can tell it should be a fun car to drive in the curves. Also, the steeringwheel is real sweet, as are also the seats. I have been flipping though quuite a few mags, and I think I already know the order in which I will put in aftermarket components (1. Wing/Rims-already own a sweet set of rims from old car 2. cone airfilter 3. easierflowwing exhaust with a SLIGHT rummble 4. sunroof... more to come). I am real glad that aftermarket companies have embrased the WRX and I see ALOT of components coming out for it - very cool. I also like how the visibility in this car is great - its actually pretty darn practical for such a fast/sporty car.
OK, now the nitpicking stuff: The inside is DARK - and I don't mean that its a black interior (I actually like black interiors). I just am used to having window/lock/temp/key switchs illuminated. The trunk-lid is REALLY cheap. While the gaps for the opening are nice and even, the sheetmetal is got to be no thicker than paper. The sun-visors are super cheap. The windshield does not have that blue-tint which I thought ALL cars had in this day and age. The speedo should have MPH increments in 10, NOT 20. The standered floormats that came with the car are crap. My biggest issue is that the backseat does not fold forward (big mistake on Subaru's part). Most all of the items above are obvious cost cutting efforts that Subaru took to keep the price of the car down. While I really can't complain too much about these issues, I am wondering if you guys noticed any other "faults".
I love my wrx 5 speed sedan, but the mileage is atrocious! I didn't buy the car for good mileage, but come on. I do most of my driving in the city and some highway (about 75-25). I average about 14 mpg. I'd kill for 18-20 mpg. And before anyone asks, yes, I broke in the car properly. I don't abuse the car or drive it overly hard. In fact, on the few occasions when I've driven all city and been very agressive, I have averaged about 12 mpg. What makes this more annoying is the relativley small gas tank. I usually have to fill up before I reach 200 miles. Granted, the car is great fun, but the terrible gas mileage and VERY high insurance rates (I'm in New Jersey, the highest rates) have taken away some of the fun.
You should come to some of the I-club NJ meets. We just had a huge one in woodbridge last friday to kick off The 48hrs of Tri-state a benefit 1200 mile ride around the Tri-state area!
Don't forget we get oxegenated gas at this time of year, and our city driving is far more harsh than that of other "city" driving. I'll ask my buddy who has a WRX in Union what kind of milage he gets, but I think its equally as bad as yours.
Just out of curiosity, can you tell me how much you pay for your insurance and specifics of your policy? I also live in NJ and considering WRX, but high insurance rates is scaring me away.
I've been averaging around 20 MPG in city driving here in Florida...and that is with an automatic wagon...I did almost 27 MPG on the highway at an average speed of 70 driving home from the dealership. Try to go easy on the gas...it is easy to get lead-footed with this car (and fun too!).
There is a little opening in the back seat that folds down to allow you to pass a shoe to the trunk. Hehe! I suppose if we wanted or needed the seats to fold down, shoulda' bought a wagon. I am impressed by the cup holders! The one in the dash, reminds me of the automatic one I have in my computer. I'm not sure it will hold as big a cup as the computer model, either. The cup holder in the console isn't very big either, and if you put a cup in it, you keep hitting it with your arm when you shift, and if you have a straw in your drink, be extra careful. The storage compartment in the console is a joke also. And whats with that little tiny flappy thing up there above the mirror? That's about as worthless as [non-permissible content removed] on a boar. I think if the sun ever peeks through there, I'll just turn around and drive in the other direction. Other than that, I really like the car.
As far as lack of storage, getting the armrest extension added to the center console solves some of the storage problem..and even gives you some place to rest your arm
No, I think it's for holding all the speeding tickets you're gonna get.
Actually, I think it's supposed to be a little drop down sun visor to keep the sun from peeking between the mirror and the roof????? Seems kinda worthless to me. Don't know what you're supposed to do if the sun gets below the mirror?
The funny thing about performance and MPG is that that right-most pedal actually obeys your commands. That pesky little throttle actually does what you tell it to do! ;-)
You must drive as fast as paisan does, if you're getting 14mpg.
It's a rally car and designed for practicality, so it ain't going to impress anyone down at the local country club (at least not until the day they go for a drive and find out how really cool it is .
Gas mileage--I used to own a '72 Porsche 911S--had almost exactly the same performance specs as the WRX today--0-60 in 6 sec., 0-100 in 15.5, top speed 143. Today that car is a rare collector's item and would set you back at least as much as a new WRX. The gas mileage in that was 14mpg if you babied it, 10-11 if you drove it hard. We've actually come a long in 30 years--so I try not to gripe too much about the 20mpg in the Rex. For the performance we get, it's really not too bad.
The salesman told me the same story that the reason Subaru didn't have folding rearseat on the sedan was for "safety" reasons. Thats total BS. After all, the wagon (obvioulsy) has folding seats, and since it is much more open back there (way less structural integrity), that would mean that the wagon is QUITE a bit weaker and less-safe than the sedan - atleast in a rear collision. I would have been much happer with an explanation stating that it was a "cost-cutting effort, but you can get a folding seat as an option for $XXX extra". I would be more than happy to drop a few hundred $ if that was an option - its THAT convenient. Once you have a car that has a folding seat, its REAL hard accepting one that doesn't (espesially since I am coming from a car with a good deal bigger trunk). Also, IF structurally Subaru kept the seat from folding, they could have reinforced that opening in other ways - like most other manufacturers are doing. Either way, I AM nitpicking, cuz I do really like the car, but I know that this issue will bug me come spring time when I can't throw 2 bikes into my trunk like before. I really don't like bikeracks in back or God forbid on the roof, but I just might HAVE to take a good look at those - ugh.
Another item you may want to reconsider is the sunroof. Unless you get a small narrow sunroof, you will be cutting into one of the structural roof supports that is part of the safety ring of the car...not recommended
Comments
Also, another thing to avoid is pressing on the accelerator when starting the engine, this is a no-no on these newer cars. This is hard to get used to, especially if you are used to the older cars that you had to press the accelerator to "set the choke" before starting.
The owners manual does a pretty good job explaining how to drive with the standard tranny, but there really is no substitute for practice. Just take it to an empty lot somewhere and just practice stopping and starting, it will take a bit and don't get frustrated, the main thing to remember when first starting out is to "ease out" on the clutch while you slightly depress the accelerator, in the beginning. Once you figure out the coordination between accelerator and clutch, then you can do it faster. And until you get used to it, AVOID stopping on "up" hills with traffic behind you! That can be a real problem! Especially with a beginner. If it can't be avoided, don't be ashamed to use the emergency brake (SLIGHTLY!) for assistance, to avoid coasting backward into a car behind you.
Practice, practice practice! Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!
Now as you get used to that, the big question that you are faced with is delaying gratification and keeping it in the parameters of the break-in-period!
Happy Motoring;)
As far as the parking light button on top of the steering column, this allows you to have your lights on while the ignition is off. Since the Impreza has auto-off headlights, this is the only way to have some lights on, while your engine is off. If you were to leave this on, this would drain your battery.
Enjoy your new car. I have 700 mules on mine and can't wait until a 1,000 so I can open her up!
Paul
Yes, the clutch was pushed in totaly when i tried to start it up those few times that it wouldn't start. Yes, the key was in all the way (it wasn't locked like when the steering wheel is turned to the side). Yes, I was "cranking" it - however no typical clicking sound from the starter when there is a limited amount of juice, BUT I was getting the "Check Engine" light to shine (I do not remember if that light comes on the other "normal" times that I stalled the car or not). Also, the sales guy did already warn me about the switch above the steering wheel - some black electrical tape will soon be covering that - however I am FAIRLY (but not 100%) sure that I had not hit it. I actually was wondering WHY that switch was there (since even the sales person didn't know the reason), until I read the manual and saw that SUPPOSEDLY the car will NOT let you leave your lights on after the ignition has been turned off - the only way to get teh lights on while the car is off is to hit that button. At least thats what I THOUGHT I read - after my earlier scare today, I was not about to test it to see if it would turn the headlights off, after I pulled the key out.
Back to the Standard tranny issue (sorry if I am asking 2 many questions). Is it ME, or is 1st pretty darn hard to get into? Like I do not know if it is because of my inexperience, or if the shifter in this car way more notchy than most?? (I had previously testdrove the RSX/ Cougar/ Stratus coupe and they all seemed to be smoother than the WRX, ESPESIALLY the RSX, VERY sweet action). I mostly have to 'wiggle-it' into 1st - seems like that works best (also, would the short-shifter that you can buy from Subaru help solve that notchy fealing, or what?).
Also, in the Manual, I believe reading that at stoplights, it is not recommended to keep the car in gear, but to shift it into nueatral, and let off the clutch. Is that true, or is that one of those things that they recommend but that no one does (kinda like checking your tire pressure EVERYTIME you go for a drive - give me a break)? Also, do most people just "roll" through Stopsigns while still in 2nd gear, or are you REALLY supposed to drop into 1st? And is 1st gear really JUST for starting from a total dead stop, or does it just seem that way?
OK, well once again, sorry 4 all the questions - but for me its not just a new car, but a new tranny also.
Oh, and yea, I have been a "good boy" and kept the revs down below 4K - less than 24hrs, and 3 guys wanted to race (a Neon, an Intrga & an RX-7), but I did not give into temptation... just 1650 miles to go, just 1650 miles to go...
-HAZDAZ
--"Is it ME, or is 1st pretty darn hard to get into?" It IS a little hard to get into, expecially while you're rolling. My advice is, don't force it in, or wiggle it in, just gently, and patiently push the gear knob into first. The synchronizor appears to take a little time to work, so just be a little patient. You'll see after a few tries this way, that it does indeed slip into first without you having to force it in.
--"Is the shifter in this car way more notchy than most?" Yes, it is notchier than other cars I've driven. It's a matter of taste, really. I like it. And after about 10,000 miles, my shifter got much smoother. I kind of miss the neat feel of snikt-ing it into gears. My former car was a Maxima, and not only were the throws very long, there was just no feel to it at all, lacking any fun. I haven't driven an RSX (yet), but the feel of Honda/Acura manual trnasmissions seem to set the standard.
-- "I believe reading that at stoplights, it is not recommended to keep the car in gear, but to shift it into nueatral, and let off the clutch. Is that true?" To save wear and tear on your transmission, you are supposed to be in neutral at stops. I do this all the time. And I live in NYC where I have to stop at every block. Keep in mind that there's more stress on an AWD drivetrain than a 2WD's. I think you said it's your first manual. The joy of driving a manual tranmission, IMO, is that you are much more involved in the driving process than an auto trans. Dropping it in and out of neutral at lights as a part of it.
--"Also, do most people just "roll" through Stopsigns while still in 2nd gear, or are you REALLY supposed to drop into 1st? And is 1st gear really JUST for starting from a total dead stop, or does it just seem that way?" Let me guess, these were the moments when you stalled out, right? I used to be able to take these shortcuts in my Maxima, but I can't with the WRX. First, there's the lack of low-end torque, especially while in that very tall second gear. Second, the AWD system seems to require a lot more power to get it moving from a stop. And you're not going to get that power while in second gear. I'll admit, I do occasionally roll through a stop sign in second gear and speed up, but at those times, I'm never in a rush and only give it a little gas to roll thru the RPMs slowly.
I'm also a firm believer that people who drive manual transmissions generally get involved in less accidents, simply because it requires the driver to actively DRIVE and constantly moniter road conditions. (With the exception of Paisan, of course. ;-])
I thought the break-in was just 1000 miles??? I wonder if the car magazines wait for the break-in period when they test them? Or do they only get them after they are already broke in?
I think it's best to hold it down as much as possible though. Except is cases of emergency.
Like when those big rigs come barreling down on you, and you just have to get out of their way!
-juice
--RA
-mike
PS: I hate DRLs too
Any ideas?
Ryan
Are you running stock tires or do you have winter tires on? I know the stock tires are not the best in snow/ice. I live in a snow belt of Michigan and I just bought the snow tire and wheel package out on tire rack a couple of weeks ago. It came with take-off WRX rims and Dunlop Winter M2's. There is only a little bit of decrease in dry-road performance and the snow and ice improvements were huge. I particularly tested my stock tires and then the winter tires right after I put them on (on a strip on snow and ice), and I stopped in a much shorter distance without ABS coming on, where the stock tires lit up the ABS like crazy.
If you plan on keeping your vehicle a long time, winter tires really pay off in keeping a nice set of rims (no salt on them), and the added safety.
Paul
-juice
Bedabi: I actually have never stalled it while "rolling" though a stopsign while in 2nd (I have only stalled it either in Reverse or going from a dead stop - while in 1st). It actually seems smoother that way to me - atleast for now. Also, my boss is about the only person I know thats ever driven standard (let him drive it a little today), and he just basically said only use 1st if your coming from a total dead stop, if you got some momentum going forward, might as well keep it in 2nd.
On the DRLs issue, how can some inspectors require DRLs for ALL `02MY cars, when GM is bascially the only car company that has them (atleast in THIS country)? Either way, I have never been a huge fan of them, and plan to find a way to get rid of them.
I also want to pop in the blue-ish tinted bulbs from my old car into the WRX (and NO, they are not THAT blue, just a little more than "normal" bulbs) - I think blue bulbs are great, and help me see better at night (I had read somewhere that the colors that blue-ish bulbs produce are easier and more natural to the human eye, so you can see a little better with them).
Hey, just out of curiosity, what kind of gas mileage areyou guys getting?
-HAZDAZ
-Dennis
http://www.scoobymods.com/mods/wrx/drl.php
Paul
High end... 26.6 mpg, mostly highway. (first tank which included driving back from St. Louis)
Low end... 18.3 mpg, mostly town driving (last tank included a lot of waiting in traffic)
Average Overall... 21.9 mpg.
All highway - ~27 mpg.
All NYC - ~14.5 mpg. You gotta rev hard to keep those Yellow Cabs from cutting you off!
I dont know about the light being more natural (sunlight is white) or easier to see, but they do produce more light with less power than conventional headlamps, thats why they are desirable. If anything, the xenons are more annoying to other drivers than regular lights.
Anyway, red is proven to be the easiest on the eyes, all ships use red lights in passages to prevent "night-blindness". Another very interesting thing is "if you are a fisherman" and you ever hunt "nightcrawlers" use a red lens in your flashlight, and you won't scare the critters away, makes it much easier to catch them.
Yeah, I hear you guys, bright red taillights are a pain too if you have to follow them very long on a dark night. Now, with your WRX you can pass them and let them see yours!
Also, on the comment that they might blind oncoming traffic, if the headlights are aimed properly AND your not using your high-beams, I have not had much problem. I see cars coming at me with either the expensive Xenon lights, or just the tinted bulbs, and it doesn't bother me as much as when I sometimes see a car with yellow/orange foglights - now that just totaly blinds me.
Also going back to the gas mileages you guys have posted, I have to admit that I am a little disapointed. Are your cars automatics (which get a little poorer gas mileage)? I have hoping that since I will be forced to use the more expensive Premium gas, I would be breaking even since I would be getting a little better gas mileage than my last car. I see that that is probably not going to happen - bummer.
Seems like they have pretty gone by the wayside now though, thank goodness!
Guess if you had a pretty good gas mileage car before, you may even see a decrease. (depends a lot on how you drive it.) I had a '98 Dodge Durango before, so my gas mileage pretty much doubled.
Hey, for anyone who didn't know (like me) BMW stands for Bavarian Motor Works, not British Motor Works.
Stephen
The companies that market those fake blue bulbs have done a good job of fooling consumers into thinking that their tinted bulbs are somehow better, when in fact they are worse, more dangerous, and illegal.
http://www.hwysafety.org/safety_facts/qanda/drl.htm
Which states that they are not required, and also mentions that DRLs are not required on motorcyles in any state.
-mike
I believe it is Bayerische Motoren Werke, even though BMW is a Bavarian (the region of Germany encompassing cities like Munich) company.... I visit Munich (Muenchen) quite a lot.
Later...AH
http://www.bmwusa.com/welcome.cfm?page=&bottom=0
Whatever works.
Ken
Once there, click on Joy of Driving
Follow to Tradition
click on BMW History and Racing timeline
See 1916
Yes, hazdaz, it really is irrelevant, I just thought it's interesting that so many people talk about BMW's all the time, but they didn't know what the letters stand for. (Myself included)
Thanks for putting up with me.
Ken
Bayerische Motoren Werke in Deutsch is Bavarian Motor Works in English. You might want to brush up on your Deutsch the next time your in Muenchen. ;-)
Danke.
-Dennis
Another point is that even if you are not proficient in German, you can get away with English (and maybe a smattering of German) in cities like Munich/Frankfurt. I never really needed to know German while in Munich etc. Neither in hotels, nor while moving around in cabs/trains nor in the workplace. Just a heads-up.
Later...AH
OK, Overall, i really like it. While I still can't rev it too hard, I can tell it should be a fun car to drive in the curves.
Also, the steeringwheel is real sweet, as are also the seats. I have been flipping though quuite a few mags, and I think I already know the order in which I will put in aftermarket components (1. Wing/Rims-already own a sweet set of rims from old car 2. cone airfilter 3. easierflowwing exhaust with a SLIGHT rummble 4. sunroof... more to come). I am real glad that aftermarket companies have embrased the WRX and I see ALOT of components coming out for it - very cool.
I also like how the visibility in this car is great - its actually pretty darn practical for such a fast/sporty car.
OK, now the nitpicking stuff: The inside is DARK - and I don't mean that its a black interior (I actually like black interiors). I just am used to having window/lock/temp/key switchs illuminated. The trunk-lid is REALLY cheap. While the gaps for the opening are nice and even, the sheetmetal is got to be no thicker than paper. The sun-visors are super cheap. The windshield does not have that blue-tint which I thought ALL cars had in this day and age. The speedo should have MPH increments in 10, NOT 20. The standered floormats that came with the car are crap. My biggest issue is that the backseat does not fold forward (big mistake on Subaru's part).
Most all of the items above are obvious cost cutting efforts that Subaru took to keep the price of the car down. While I really can't complain too much about these issues, I am wondering if you guys noticed any other "faults".
-mike
Don't forget we get oxegenated gas at this time of year, and our city driving is far more harsh than that of other "city" driving. I'll ask my buddy who has a WRX in Union what kind of milage he gets, but I think its equally as bad as yours.
-mike
The storage compartment in the console is a joke also. And whats with that little tiny flappy thing up there above the mirror? That's about as worthless as [non-permissible content removed] on a boar. I think if the sun ever peeks through there, I'll just turn around and drive in the other direction. Other than that, I really like the car.
Just a few of my observations.
Ken
Eric
-mike
Actually, I think it's supposed to be a little drop down sun visor to keep the sun from peeking between the mirror and the roof????? Seems kinda worthless to me. Don't know what you're supposed to do if the sun gets below the mirror?
Ken
You must drive as fast as paisan does, if you're getting 14mpg.
-juice
-mike
Gas mileage--I used to own a '72 Porsche 911S--had almost exactly the same performance specs as the WRX today--0-60 in 6 sec., 0-100 in 15.5, top speed 143. Today that car is a rare collector's item and would set you back at least as much as a new WRX. The gas mileage in that was 14mpg if you babied it, 10-11 if you drove it hard. We've actually come a long in 30 years--so I try not to gripe too much about the 20mpg in the Rex. For the performance we get, it's really not too bad.
-juice
I would have been much happer with an explanation stating that it was a "cost-cutting effort, but you can get a folding seat as an option for $XXX extra". I would be more than happy to drop a few hundred $ if that was an option - its THAT convenient. Once you have a car that has a folding seat, its REAL hard accepting one that doesn't (espesially since I am coming from a car with a good deal bigger trunk). Also, IF structurally Subaru kept the seat from folding, they could have reinforced that opening in other ways - like most other manufacturers are doing.
Either way, I AM nitpicking, cuz I do really like the car, but I know that this issue will bug me come spring time when I can't throw 2 bikes into my trunk like before. I really don't like bikeracks in back or God forbid on the roof, but I just might HAVE to take a good look at those - ugh.