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Comments
I thought about trying to get another trans computer at the local salvage yard, seems like it is stuck in limp mode. There was no sign on the trans going out, just went out on my wife, in the middle of driving. Would another trans computer need to be flased?
Best to get codes pulled directly from TCM to help out in diagnoisis.but sounds like it proply one of the speed sensor but need codes to tell you or just replace them but could be a pump problem or valve body well there lots of pauseable causes. as for tcm from another vehicle you can but a reset or beak in presedure must be done or it could have suttering probs during lock up and same goes if replacing torque convertor and speedometer signal must be recalibrated aswell.
Thanks for the input.
The van has first and shifts into second. I can go as fast as i want - of course the RPM just climbs and I go faster in second gear. I have been afraid to red line because i do not want to make it worse - right now i can still drive to the Cottman Transmission store about a mile away.
Right now there is no slipping. I just have reverse,first and second gear. The van was senior owned and garage kept so it looks new. At $3295.00 sold as is by Buhler Dodge Jeep this is disappointing. We do not have $1800.00 for a transmission (seems to be talk about repair price on the internet).
Thanks for you help - will check later for your reply.
The code is PO-720-01.
The manual book states it is the "Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction".
My next question is that the "TCM" computer I have been reading about ? I see that they are around $199.00 refurbished with a warranty.
Look forward to your help.
sonofadocker
I still do not know if it something that can resolved without having to rebuild my tranny or having to purchase a new one.
I had the codes read from the TCM at a transmission specialist shop "non franchise" and did not like his instant diagnosis thereafter stating hat I will need a new or rebuilt tranny.
He codes he pulled from the TCM I remember code:53 and there was another one between 51-55 so the second code was either a ,51,52,54 or 55 I do not remember sorry.
Can you please tell me if just based on those two codes there can would he really be able to say I need another transmission or rebuild this one at 1800.00$
Thank you and forgive me for my incomplete posts but I really literally only know what I have learned around here when it comes to cars.
Thanks in advance!
codes 50,51 is same thing as other codes but adds a couple other things that might be wrong aswell witch are input/output sensors or tcm failure.but other 3 codes are clutch slipping.
50 is reverse
51 is 1st
52 is 2nd
53 is 3rd 54 is od
Any of these codes put tranny in limp mode witch then you only have second gear
So i would have to say tranny is in need if rebiulding or replacing.
if you want to go a cheaper for now route you can get a used one from local wreckin yard and put it in they ussally come with some warrenty 3months or something like that.
55 is end of codes
Sorry there isn't any better news for you.good luck.
They found that the Dealership (Buhler Dodge Hazlet NJ) had taken the low speed sensor module out of the transmission and removed the metal shavings from the sensor and put it back in the van. I guess they should have pressured washed the entire transmission than just cleaning of the sensor an its harness.
This cleaning off the sensor would make the van shift gears until the fluid had moved around all the shavings which would stick to the magnet again and keep the van in 1st and 2nd.
The van did fine on the test drive and I bought it - The two mile ride after the purchase was enough time to make the sensor act as it should - collect the shavings and stop the shifting of gears.
$1926.00 for a rebuilt transmission. I was given a free torque convertor and two free sensors - savings of $227.00. The front seal on the transmission was also leaking.
Buhler Dodge has yet to contact me about the problem.
Thank you for your advice.
The only new issue with the van is the low fuel warning is going off no matter how much fuel is in the fuel tank.
Any and all ideas welcome please e-mail me at rdjersey108@yahoo.com
I searched the forums here and did not see my exact problem. I did not want to get the big mechanic bill if I could get out of it. So, I bout the input and output speed sensors at Auto Zone. One was $17.00 other was $18.00. Put them in and wala!! it worked. Speedometer and transmission are now working properly!
Pull the seats out and pull up carpet check connectors.If rotton the cut them out and soder wires together may have to add a small piece to get them to connect together. That will fix interior lights and abs. Abs connector is under the driver seat.
Not sure if it will fix everything but when things short it will cause all sorts of things depending on what wire is shorting.
Thanks,,, and sorry for the long post..
I would also like to no more about your driving habbits due to beeing 4th tranny shot. Like do you tow anything with this and if so how much weight.? or is loaded heavy in back alot? Does your van have a trans cooler on it?
And need codes off the tcm if equip with it.
If in fact you have been having your transmissions FLUSHED every 12,400 miles, then there's your problem. Flushing is horribly destructive to automatic transmissions in general, and especially so for these transmissions. You would have been far better off if you had simply gone with the 30,000 mile pan drop, filter change and a top off of ATF+3 (when the van was new) or ATF+4 (as now recommended by Chrysler), than all of the money you've tossed in the trash by having unnecessary and useless service done on your transmission.
Best regards,
Shipo
if your are going to take it somewhere go to a trandmission shop they may be able to fix it where car dealer just going to replace.
A few points:
1) Transmission flushes ARE NOT recommended by Chrysler.
2) Chrysler recommends that a transmission "service" (i.e. a pan drop, filter swap and fluid top-off) be performed every 30,000 miles or 50,000 kilometers. They DO NOT recommend any services for the transmission every 20,000 kilometers.
3) Your dealership is at fault here. Why? Because they are engaging in the predatory practice of fleecing their customers by recommending services that are profitable, unnessary, and in many ways harmful to the vehicles they "service".
4) Were I in your shoes, I might investigate filing a lawsuit against your dealership for damage to your vehicle.
Best regards,
Shipo
AggieMom1
FWIW, ATF+4 has virtually identical friction properties when compared to ATF+3, however, where ATF+3 was only good for 30,000 miles, the new fluid is typically good for over 100,000 miles.
Best regards,
Shipo
Thanks.
The replacement trans are ussally better then the orginal. But i would suggest to put a trans cooler on there if there isn't one helps keep it cooler and last longer.
Might be a good idea if you haven't done it before or in the 100k a trans oil and filter change.
Anyway, i have a 1998 ply voyager that sounds funny everytime i drive it around. the transmission jerk a lil when it picking up speed like when it shifting but after that it runs fine until i have to slow down again then you can feel that jerk again,
i am not sure if its a speed sensor or what? this is my first american car and my wife and kids love it and if possible i dont wanna get rid of it but if it cost me money along the way then i got no choice.
another problem is, the button switches for a/c , defroster, wiper on the back below the stereo blinks continously , sometimes turns off. Reason i dont know if my ac is on or off, is my defroster ON or OFF because the lights are blinking?
and the last one, i looked at the bottom part of the tranny, front side there is this
hanging wire with white connector to it and i can not figure out where it supposed to be plugged in????
any help or input is highly appreciated.
thank you :confuse:
which one should i replace? isnt it theres vehicle speed sensor too?
i dont see the VSS anywwhere in the book. picture would be nice
and thank you for your response :confuse:
Once you get the sensors, you will see what they look like. If I remember correctly, they take a 1" wrench to get out. You will need to remove the air filter box. Once you do that you can get to both sensors
FWIW, our 1998 (which we also bought new) had 170,000 miles on it when we traded it in last fall, and while it did need a transmission at the 109,000 mile mark, it too was a model of reliability. Beyond the aforementioned transmission, it also needed a driver's door switch for $8.00, a starter for $120.00, a window regulator for $90.00, a new muffler and tail-pipe for $150 (no surprise there), two batteries for about $100 (one was partially warrantied by Sears), a set of rear shocks for $80.00 (the originals were still working at 150,000 miles, but dust shields had rusted away), and a couple of sets of headlight bulbs for about $50.00. Said another way, I spent a little under $3,300 in unscheduled repairs over 170,000 miles. Not too shabby in my book.
Best regards,
Shipo
I ask because even though the tranny fluid is supposed to be a "lifetime fill", you're getting to the point where you should have the pan dropped, the filter replaced, and the fluid topped off (about 4 quarts of ATF+4, and ONLY ATF+4). Whatever you do, DO NOT have the transmission "flushed", flushing has caused way more transmission failures than anything else this side of using the incorrect AFT (Dextron ATF and Mercon ATF will kill your transmission in short order) or towing a trailer up a mountain on a one-hundred degree day.
Best regards,
Shipo
Question: Do you do lots of urban cycle driving and/or towing? I ask because the values for our 2003 with over 120,000 miles on it are well within spec. That said, we've probably done at least 50% highway driving over the course of the nearly six years we've had the van.
Best regards,
Shipo
We have never towed anything and it is all highway miles. My wife's commute is about 30 miles each way on the PA Turnpike and we have driven back and forth from Philadelphia to Southern FL at least 6 times. When I took it to the dealer, one of the pressures was close to 186 psi and the other ranged from 60-120psi. After the dealer "recalibrated the unit" they said the pressures were all at 39 psi, but within a day the problem was worse than ever. I dropped the van off at a Cottman transmission shop on Friday. They said no codes were showing up so they are going to drop the pan tomorrow (Monday) and call with the damage report.
Thanks for you help,
Bryan
Best regards,
Shipo
Best regards,
Shipo