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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems



  • enufkids4nowenufkids4now Member Posts: 3
    On February 9, 2009, my husband and I had purchase a 1996 Dodge Chrysler Town & Country, from a used dealer. My husband and myself both had signed the "As is" part of the agreement. The problem at the time, was the vibration of the vehicle. It was shaking and vibrating severely. The auto mechanic had replaced ONE motor mount. After that, another week went by, and when we are at stop signs the van sputters, as if it's not going into gear properly, or the transmission is slipping. It dies at stop lights, and getting on the freeway. We were told to take the van back to have him fix it. So we took it in, he told us that we would have to leave it all day, and he would call us when it was time to pick up. We had gone to pick it up, and were down the street after we had left the shop, and it had died, due to having no gas. We thought everything was fine, and was driving, we were a long way from the shop, and it died 2 more times within that same night. This van has been in the shop every SINGLE WEEK since we bought the van, due to the same issue, and it is NOT being fixed!!!! However, the used car dealer has paid for every time our van has gone to the shop, and nothing has been fixed. The owner of the used car dealer has advised my husband and myself that he would help us this last time to get this fixed, and STILL this auto mechanic has NOT fixed, or found out WHY our van is dying at the stoplights and getting on the freeway, sputters at stop signs, and the vibration. When we went to pick our van up this last time. We had taken a picture of the odometer, and then left it with the auto mechanic, to fix the problem. He had called us to tell us to come test drive it with him, that he had driven it for 2 hours, and couldn't find the problem. That mechanic DID NOT drive our van for 2 hours, because the odometer was the same according to our picture that we took when we had left it. He told us, he does not know, he cannot find the problem, which in turn is embarrassing to us. We must also add, that we don't have ANY copies of ANY work order done on our van from all of the times this mechanic has had it in his shop. And IF the owner from the used car dealer has paid this mechanic to diagnose and fix the problem, he's out that money, because NOTHING has been done!!! Now this past Saturday, we were driving our van, and the check engine light had come on, we had called the mechanic, he didn't answer, so we drove over to the repair shop, and they were closed. Every time that we have taken it in on a Saturday they HAVE been open. We need guidance, and don't know what to do at this point. We have 3 small children that we have to get to school, and this is very frustrating and scary to say the least. At some points we are afraid to drive this van. We were desperate for a different vehicle, and had no choice to settle with this, because of our credit being horrible, and going to this used car dealer, and having our fresh start, is great, but we feel we are stuck with this van, for the next 16 months, whether it runs or not. We just want our problem fixed, because it keeps being paid for by the used car dealer, and we are now on our own, and have to save more money now to get this fixed!!! The problems with this van just keep adding up, and don't know what to, since NOTHING has been fixed!!! Could all of these problems be due to needing a new transmission?!?!?!?!?!?
  • criedlcriedl Member Posts: 2
    My husband takes great care to maintain my 2001 Town & Country LX with 145K miles. This weekend he changed the transmission fluid and filter. It now lurches upon acceleration after deceleration when in overdrive. He is quite competent mechanicallly and is very perplexed and concerned. Any suggestions?
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    My husband takes great care to maintain my 2001 Town & Country LX with 145K miles. This weekend he changed the transmission fluid and filter. It now lurches upon acceleration after deceleration when in overdrive. He is quite competent mechanicallly and is very perplexed and concerned. Any suggestions?

    My first thought is the wrong fluid got in there. A604s are very sensitive to fluid type and condition (which is why its good to change it, like he did). ATF+3 and +4 are the only ones that should be used (earlier ones used +3 later +4, I am not sure where on the spectrum yours is).
  • criedlcriedl Member Posts: 2
    He checked based on your recommendation and indeed used the right fluid according to the owner's manual. Any other thoughts? It's raining and he's out fixing...on Easter. Of course, he'll take it to a transmission shop if necessary, but we'd prefer not to.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    He checked based on your recommendation and indeed used the right fluid according to the owner's manual. Any other thoughts? It's raining and he's out fixing...on Easter. Of course, he'll take it to a transmission shop if necessary, but we'd prefer not to.

    You might try googling " allpar" and "a604" for trouble shooting tips.
  • scott_allenscott_allen Member Posts: 2
    My 03 Caravan had all the typical symptoms, so Dodge rebuilt my transmission a couple of weeks ago at 78,500 miles. It now runs well, except... only when the engine is cold, there is a slight hesitation between first and second. That's more or less the first sign that the transmission was failing before it was rebuilt. I now have 79,300 - dangerously close to the 80 mark. I'm making an appointment, but wondering if anybody has ideas or suggestions - ideas that might be helpful when I am speaking with the mechanic. Thanks!
  • robopolorobopolo Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Town & Country Minivan. The transnmission just quit shifting. I had the codes read and the following codes were found:

    BBECM internal fault
    BBECH unable to communicate on the SPI line
    Probable cause
    BBl.- Shorted input sensor
    BB2.- Shorted electrical circuit
    BB3.- Failed ECH

    BBTCM ROM fault
    BBECM detected a ROM self test failure uithin the rCM
    Probable cause
    331.- Shorted solenoid or sensor within transnission
    632.- Shorted electrical circuit
    BB3.- Failed TCM

    BBTransaxle control system fauIt
    BBECM received a signal that the transaxle control
    BBmodule has a fault
    Probable cause
    BB1,- Shorted or open circuit uithin transaxle
    BB2.- Failure of transaxle control nodule

    Who Can help me? Is it the wiring, the TCM, a Solenoid, a speed sensor .....?
  • scott_allenscott_allen Member Posts: 2
    Replies on this thread are seriously petering out, so I thought I would say something. Whether or not it is of any help... I am no kind of mechanic, but I did recently have my tranny rebuilt by Dodge for all the same problem as you and everybody else in this forum have had. Phrases like "internal fault" and "within transaxle" very much suggest to me that you are looking at a full transmission rebuild. I was lucky enough to have been just shy of my extended warranty running out, so I don't know what it would have cost - but I think you are looking at at least 2000 bucks and perhaps more. On a 2001 you are stuck, because if you sell the car to someone with a bad transmission you will get nothing for it. And it is probably only worth what it will cost to have the problem fixed. If the van is otherwise in good shape, I guess you have to suck it up and have it done and drive it until it dies (again). That's probably what I'd do. At least you can be mostly assured that you won't have to deal with transmission issues on this van ever again! So I guess this counts as moral, rather than technical, support. Good luck!
  • autowriteautowrite Member Posts: 226
    What heppens if your currently dealership closes and you have to drive to the next town, like the current problems? You will probaby need Mr. Transmission or AAMCO to fix it as it seems, like in the case of the couple that purchased a 1996, , Chysler service does not seem to be interested;
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    OK, I'll make a wag at this. All of what follows is based on experience as an Electrical Engineer, and not any specify automatic tranny experience.

    1. P0601, BBECH unable to communicate on the SPI line . SPI stands for Serial Peripheral Interface, and is a low cost, simple way for a computer to communicate with some external device. In this case, the external device is probably a sensor associated with the transmission. So the fault code means that either the sensor itself has failed or the interface to the sensor has failed (broken wire?).

    2. P0605, BBECM detected a ROM self test failure uithin the rCM. A ROM is a Read Only Memory that is part of of a computer/microprocessor board. Many computer systems have some sort of self test on the contents of the ROM at power turn on (checksumming, CRC, etc). According to the diagnostic code, the electronics module failed this self test.

    3. P0700 BBECM received a signal that the transaxle control BBmodule has a fault. The BBECM (maybe considered a master control unit) detected a fault in the transaxle control unit (one of the slave units???). A faulty transaxle control unit is consistent with the first two error codes.

    If I were going to do anything, I would start with the cheapest, simplest thing to replace and see if that fixes the problem or changes anything. That would be whatever sensor it was that would cause the original P0601 fault.

    Good luck!
  • gvincigvinci Member Posts: 1
    got a 96 grand caravan 3.8
    transmission goes on first gear and die in second gear. I have to stop the engine ,start again and the same thing happens
    when it goes to second gear i loose transmission and it won't shift down
    first and reverse are fine
    any help please
  • remoteportalremoteportal Member Posts: 1
    Our transmission for our Chrysler Mini-Van doesn't "feel right." Like it's in the early stages of slipping, but if we drive it gently we've had no problems for about four months.

    How do you know when you need a new transmission?

    We want to drive it to/from the beach this weekend (four hours each way)... what is the likelihood it would leave us stranded? Like I said, we noticed a change 4-6 months ago but it doesn't "feel" like it's going to fail immediately. One mechanic said "these transmissions go fast when they start to go out" but that (so far!) hasn't been the case with us.

    A new transmission is $4K I hear... or $2K for re-built and we've just been waiting for the right time to plunk down the dough.

    Wesley Chapel, NC
  • chessorchessor Member Posts: 7
    Have a problem with engine stalling when engine gets to operating temperture.
    This has started happing as the weather got hot and humid. You can put in neutral
    start and tromp the excellator it stalls as if not enough gas getting through.
    could this be the fuel filter? or fuel pump? Have 14,000 miles on sparkplugs.
    Have recently put new water pump and timing chain in van.
    Will appreciate any help with this.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Have you checked the computer for any stored diagnostic codes? It sounds like it could be either the air temperature sensor or map sensor. They are an easy place to start. If you do not have a code reader or know how to get them with the key method, you can go to any autozone store and they will check for codes for you. If the check engine light is not staying on, it could be an intermittent code.
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Member Posts: 31
    This could be a number of problems so getting codes read is the first step for sure.
    The tps (throttle position sensor) or air idle motor are 2 common causes as they are moving parts and wear out or get sticky.
    Does it idle smooth or rough?
    If it nice and smooth then that should rule out a vacuum leak.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    Many years ago we had a 91 Caravan that had a stalling problem. As I recall, the fuel injectors needed a cleaning; after the fuel injection service it ran fine. Good luck.
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    While I do agree that these could also be a possible source of his problem, I started with the Air temp sensor and map/MAF sensors, because he stated that the problem seems to be temperature related and usually occurs when the vehicle comes up to normal operating temperature. In my experiences with cars, that would usually point to the items I mentioned. I have had vehicles with problems with IAC and TPS, but I have never had them acting up or fail as a temperature related problem, only from wear or electrical failure. As far as the suggestion of the injectors someone else mentioned, I think that would more then likely cause a rough running engine or acceleration problem, or even a start/no start condition as opposed to stalling when reaching operating temperature.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 15,086
    I agree. If it consistently manifests after reaching operating temperature, it points to sensors that come online at that point rather than an always-on sensor or a mechanical source.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Don't leave out the O2 sensor in that mix. I believe most engines run "open loop" (in that the output of the O2 sensors are ignored) for a couple of minutes upon start up, until the O2 sensor has a chance to warm up. The ECM uses one of the existing temperature sensors to figure out when this is.
  • robopolorobopolo Member Posts: 4
    Okay y'all --- Here is the fix. I took it to a mechanic and he said start by replacing the ECM (Engine Control Module) to take care of the P0601 code. Chrysler dealer wanted $750 for a new ECM & $200 to program it (insert VIN # and Milage etc). I searched ebay and found this place in Florida (SOLO AUTOMOTIVE COMPUTERS, 1-800-886-9926 [email protected]) and paid $225 for a refurbished with all of the programming done and free shipping and lifetime warranty (as long as I own the vehicle). I installed it and it took care of the P0601 code but the transmission still would not shift. I read online and a Chrysler Mechanic said everytime he has seen the P0605 it has been a bad TCM (Transmission Control Module). I bought a refurbished one from SOLO for $230 free shipping & programming & lifetime warranty. I put it in an whala transmission started working and all error codes were gone. I hope this will be usefull to someone. I spent $455 and fixed it myself --- a dealer would have wanted $1500 to $2000 to fix it. So I saved $1000 to $1500 ---- That makes working on your own vehicles worth while!!!
  • mako511mako511 Member Posts: 1
    Did you resolve your problem? I have the same exact symptoms... it's like there's a rev limiter at 3500rpm whether its reve'd up with no load in park or driven with load in any gear (auto trans). The same code you got also came up (P0016) but I want to know the actual problem since you've already replaced those and got no joy. Any info greatly appreciated!
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Member Posts: 31
    P0016 Dodge Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
  • crtharpcrtharp Member Posts: 2
    the P016 error with missing above 3500 rpm is the crankshaft flex plate (flywheel) that is cracked and the crankshaft position sensor is back there getting information from the flex plate. My leasing company had the dealer replace the cam and crank position sensors first with no fix. Pulling the transmission and replacing the flex plate (flywheel) fixed the problem.
  • cr119cr119 Member Posts: 2
    Ok so I was getting the hard jerk when my 03 Dodge Grand Caravan was decelerating at about 25-30 mph. I first had the codes checked for free at auto zone there were none. Then I disconnected the battery overnight that did not work. I then took it to my local Dodge dealership (that was a mistake) the service advisor told me that it would take the tech at least 2 hrs to look it over at $80 an hour. I told him I would only authorize 1 hr. When they were done three days later he told me I needed a new front oil pump. Now I had already told him about the service bulliten someone recommened online stating that all that was needed was a computer relearn, he then told me they were wrong and it was going to cost me $900 to replace. I then called a local transmission shop the first thing they said was it needed a computer relearn and it would cost $60. And to my surprise it did fix the jerking problem! ;) :shades: :)
  • belongamickbelongamick Member Posts: 1
    While driving the van in D position the transmission is very erratic it almost feels like the engine missing very bad, after a few seconds the transmission will shift into 2nd gear and stay there. If i select the 3 position next to the D it runs fine shifts
    through all three gears up and down just fine.Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this? i took it to autozone and had it scanned, no codes came up.Have no way to check transmisson codes. Thanks for any info.
  • hixbhixb Member Posts: 2
    96 Voyager has the small 4 cyl w/the 3 speed auto. 114,000 miles. Has always had some hum under the hood. But after 14 months of driving the whining has gotten so loud we parked it. I changed engine oil to a higher weight; no help but found no metal. Pretty sure it isn't the alternator ior the air compressor. It whine low while at idle but increases as you drive or rev up the engine. Afraid with all I have read the problem is the transmission. Will changing the trans oil/filter help? Any suggestions or advise? Thanks all. hixb
  • chessorchessor Member Posts: 7
    Might be power sterring pump,also could be tension bearing on serpentin belt.
  • vincestlucievincestlucie Member Posts: 1
    was a problem found and diagnosed?
  • willistonwilliston Member Posts: 1
    I am unable to shift the lever from park into any other position on my 2008 Dodge grand caravan. The opd (?) warning light comes on and stays until the car is started, then goes out.

    Any Ideas?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Could be the brake interlock switch. Check to see if you have brake lights. If not, then definitely that. Also there is usually, on all cars, a slot (sometimes covered with a plastic cap) near the gearshift lever that allows you to insert a screwdriver to release the lever in an emergency.
  • zunigatorzunigator Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 T&C and it has a code PO605 PO700. What does this mean? Would it be costly to repair?
    Thank you
  • dannygirldannygirl Member Posts: 3
    hello I'm new to this place i have a1996 plymouth grand voyager and it will go in reverse but not very far in drive i noticed that you took your van to a transmission shop and it was just a chip can i get the name of the transmission shop please and is it in north carolina? or can anyone help? thanks
  • dannygirldannygirl Member Posts: 3
  • jetawayjetaway Member Posts: 14
    I dont think your situation is going to be that simple.First,do you have a 3 speed or 4 speed?If its a 3 speed the shift indicator will have D 2 1.If its an overdrive i think it will have D 3 2 1.Either way you most likely need a rebuilt trans.If it is a 4 speed you can have a CVI test done with a scanner.The underdrive clutch should have a value of about 50.If it is over 60 your trans is done.If it is within specs it could be an electronic problem.So you need to get it scanned.You can look at the fluid on the dipstick.If it is dark brown or black and smells burnt then dont bother you need a trans.
  • LASHAWNLASHAWN Member Posts: 303
    If your vehicle is still under warranty, then take it to the dealer and let them fix it. Don't mess with anything.
  • dannygirldannygirl Member Posts: 3
    my van don't have either it has D3L sorry it took so long to reply are you from around here in north carolina if so where would you recomend me taking my van to ?
  • davesutondavesuton Member Posts: 5
    You will be glad you are familiar with transmission replacements if you get the Honda, mine has gone through two of them before the 20k mile mark. Honda Pilots and Ridgelines are lined up at my dealers service department everytime I go for there, for some kind of transmission work. The Toyota won't have transmission problems but it will blow its engine due to sludge. Something else I was learned the hard way with Japan Inc.
  • sean9sean9 Member Posts: 82
  • sean9sean9 Member Posts: 82
    I lease a 2008 GC SXT 3.8L, with 25,000km. I was on my holiday 1000km from home when my transmission completly failed!! Problem is Chrysler does not have any transmissions in stock until the end of August, I am stuck with a rental until then. Some 20 on backorder according to Chrysler Canada.
    My wife mainly drives the van and we take extreemly good care of it. No reason for this to occur @ 25000km. All covered under warrantee but what a headache on your vacation. Still waiting for a transmission. Anyone else experience this with the 2008 GC?
    NOT IMPRESSED Glad I am one of the last Chrysler customers to lease, they can have this lemon back .
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 15,086
    To be fair, the Toyota engine sludge issue is largely behind them, though I strongly recommend any owner to use a high quality synthetic oil such as Amsoil or Royal Purple, as these oils will not only extend service intervals and reduce maintenance costs, but they will also greatly reduce engine deposits and wear, thereby extending the life of your engine.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • davesutondavesuton Member Posts: 5
    Hey that's great and all, but Toyota doesn't list any of that in its service manual. My Toyota Camry was serviced at the dealer and still they tried to sock me with a $2800 engine rebuild bill. I fought them for six weeks unsuccesfully until I threatend litigation. Then they said they would pay for parts only. I had to fight them to pay for labour. I was not alone. The back service lot must of had 30 sludge engined Toyotas and Lexus' waiting for rebuilds. Many, MANY unhappy customers besides me. I'll will not set foot in a Toyota dealership ever again.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 15,086
    I don't blame you one bit! What year was the Camry? Around a 2000? I have heard similar horror stories about Toyota's customer service and sludge, especially around the turn of the millenium....

    But, no manufacturer will put that information in their service manual because they do not want your car to last a long time with very little maintenance cost! If you want good information on synthetics (not just Amsoil), find an Amsoil dealer, have a long conversation, and ask for literature on the subject.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kitt78kitt78 Member Posts: 3
    I've encountered some problems with my transmission (Dodge Grand Caravan Sport
    3.8 AWD year 2000 ).
    I've already exchange transmissin oil three times (once with filter) Oil was
    dirty and brownish but smells normally -(not burned). Now is Reddish.
    I've exchanged Solenoid Pack (brand new)
    I've checked by OBDII reader - but no transmission error codes
    (question: is it possible to check and read codes by standard OBDII
    reader codes from transmission? or it is possible only by DRBII)

    My main problem is:
    When I start my car in the morning (engine is cold and aslo transmission
    oil is cold; ambient temp. 15 Deg Celcius)

    Engine works fine, idle approx 900~700rpm.

    And after changing from PtoR or NtoD or NtoR (and all other combination
    when cold - engine stops idle - dies,

    -Then I start again engine try to put gear once again sometimes is good> and I can drive - no problems all day(until next morning)

    - or sometimes I must afer changing gear to D or R quickly release brake
    - car is driving going forward or reverse.
    If in last case if I push brake pedal just after releasing brake pedal
    Engine will stop idle. But I if I push brake pedal after 100m of driving
    it will be no problem all day long)

    I was visiting couple mechanics (they dont have DRBII or DRBIII scanning
    tool) - first diagnosis Solenoid Pack (it's replaced now brand new).
    but after replacement no luck.

    It could be in the valve body of the electronic
    transaxle where there is a switch valve, a control valve and a regulator
    valve all three related to the torque converter clutch.

    How to check this Valves - if they are working correctly or not (after disassembly Valve body)?
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Member Posts: 31
    I would have to say if there is no codes then it would be the torque converter it self not the valve or solenoids.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I've heard on a different minivan related site that Chrysler got a bad batch of transmissions (or was it transmission components?) from a supplier that has led to a rash of failures. As I understand it, Chrysler changed suppliers and the problem has since been corrected, and now they are waiting for the pipeline to refill due to the extra demand for transmissions (both for production as well as for warranty replacements).

    Keep us posted.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Personally I'm kind of doubting that your problem has anything to do with the transmission and everything to do with the engine sensors. Find a competent mechanic that has the necessary diagnostic equipment and have the problem pinpointed. Throwing parts at a problem like this is almost always more expensive than paying for a professional that knows what he or she is doing, even if that individual costs more than the guy next door.
  • kitt78kitt78 Member Posts: 3
    Yes you are correct, but it's hard to find correct person to manage this issue in my country.
  • kitt78kitt78 Member Posts: 3

    I have this same problem with my Dodge Grand Caravan 2000. 3.8L AWD.

    When it's cold outside below 15deg Celcius and car is not used for more than 8 hours, I must long wait for warming up the engine or put gear on quickly as I can just after engine start. Sometimes thats enough for all day or after couple meters I stop - engine stall again, I suppose that it could be something wrong with Valves on the Valve body, or Toque Converter is dying. I've changed already Solenoid Pack and I'm keeping changing oil at right time (ATF +3, 7176)

    How do you repaired your car?
    Please advise, Thanks in advance.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 15,086
    This sounds like it might be a vacuum issue. Have you checked the vacuum hoses to ensure there are no breaks?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • brad32378brad32378 Member Posts: 8
    This is it #1 cylinder misfire... new plugs wires and coil pack...still not fixed then new valves in head so new head and intake gaskets back together...still misfire back apart took out the piston bearings are fine rings look fine but putting new in we will see what happens this time . anyone have a clue....? :sick:
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