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Comments
My first thought is the wrong fluid got in there. A604s are very sensitive to fluid type and condition (which is why its good to change it, like he did). ATF+3 and +4 are the only ones that should be used (earlier ones used +3 later +4, I am not sure where on the spectrum yours is).
You might try googling " allpar" and "a604" for trouble shooting tips.
P0601
Definition
BBECM internal fault
Explanation
BBECH unable to communicate on the SPI line
Probable cause
BBl.- Shorted input sensor
BB2.- Shorted electrical circuit
BB3.- Failed ECH
P0605
Definition
BBTCM ROM fault
EXPlanation
BBECM detected a ROM self test failure uithin the rCM
Probable cause
331.- Shorted solenoid or sensor within transnission
632.- Shorted electrical circuit
BB3.- Failed TCM
P0700
Definition
BBTransaxle control system fauIt
Explanation
BBECM received a signal that the transaxle control
BBmodule has a fault
Probable cause
BB1,- Shorted or open circuit uithin transaxle
BB2.- Failure of transaxle control nodule
Who Can help me? Is it the wiring, the TCM, a Solenoid, a speed sensor .....?
Replies on this thread are seriously petering out, so I thought I would say something. Whether or not it is of any help... I am no kind of mechanic, but I did recently have my tranny rebuilt by Dodge for all the same problem as you and everybody else in this forum have had. Phrases like "internal fault" and "within transaxle" very much suggest to me that you are looking at a full transmission rebuild. I was lucky enough to have been just shy of my extended warranty running out, so I don't know what it would have cost - but I think you are looking at at least 2000 bucks and perhaps more. On a 2001 you are stuck, because if you sell the car to someone with a bad transmission you will get nothing for it. And it is probably only worth what it will cost to have the problem fixed. If the van is otherwise in good shape, I guess you have to suck it up and have it done and drive it until it dies (again). That's probably what I'd do. At least you can be mostly assured that you won't have to deal with transmission issues on this van ever again! So I guess this counts as moral, rather than technical, support. Good luck!
1. P0601, BBECH unable to communicate on the SPI line . SPI stands for Serial Peripheral Interface, and is a low cost, simple way for a computer to communicate with some external device. In this case, the external device is probably a sensor associated with the transmission. So the fault code means that either the sensor itself has failed or the interface to the sensor has failed (broken wire?).
2. P0605, BBECM detected a ROM self test failure uithin the rCM. A ROM is a Read Only Memory that is part of of a computer/microprocessor board. Many computer systems have some sort of self test on the contents of the ROM at power turn on (checksumming, CRC, etc). According to the diagnostic code, the electronics module failed this self test.
3. P0700 BBECM received a signal that the transaxle control BBmodule has a fault. The BBECM (maybe considered a master control unit) detected a fault in the transaxle control unit (one of the slave units???). A faulty transaxle control unit is consistent with the first two error codes.
If I were going to do anything, I would start with the cheapest, simplest thing to replace and see if that fixes the problem or changes anything. That would be whatever sensor it was that would cause the original P0601 fault.
Good luck!
transmission goes on first gear and die in second gear. I have to stop the engine ,start again and the same thing happens
when it goes to second gear i loose transmission and it won't shift down
first and reverse are fine
any help please
How do you know when you need a new transmission?
We want to drive it to/from the beach this weekend (four hours each way)... what is the likelihood it would leave us stranded? Like I said, we noticed a change 4-6 months ago but it doesn't "feel" like it's going to fail immediately. One mechanic said "these transmissions go fast when they start to go out" but that (so far!) hasn't been the case with us.
A new transmission is $4K I hear... or $2K for re-built and we've just been waiting for the right time to plunk down the dough.
Pete
Wesley Chapel, NC
This has started happing as the weather got hot and humid. You can put in neutral
start and tromp the excellator it stalls as if not enough gas getting through.
could this be the fuel filter? or fuel pump? Have 14,000 miles on sparkplugs.
Have recently put new water pump and timing chain in van.
Will appreciate any help with this.
The tps (throttle position sensor) or air idle motor are 2 common causes as they are moving parts and wear out or get sticky.
Does it idle smooth or rough?
If it nice and smooth then that should rule out a vacuum leak.
through all three gears up and down just fine.Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this? i took it to autozone and had it scanned, no codes came up.Have no way to check transmisson codes. Thanks for any info.
Any Ideas?
williston
Thank you
:sick:
My wife mainly drives the van and we take extreemly good care of it. No reason for this to occur @ 25000km. All covered under warrantee but what a headache on your vacation. Still waiting for a transmission. Anyone else experience this with the 2008 GC?
NOT IMPRESSED Glad I am one of the last Chrysler customers to lease, they can have this lemon back .
But, no manufacturer will put that information in their service manual because they do not want your car to last a long time with very little maintenance cost! If you want good information on synthetics (not just Amsoil), find an Amsoil dealer, have a long conversation, and ask for literature on the subject.
3.8 AWD year 2000 ).
I've already exchange transmissin oil three times (once with filter) Oil was
dirty and brownish but smells normally -(not burned). Now is Reddish.
I've exchanged Solenoid Pack (brand new)
I've checked by OBDII reader - but no transmission error codes
(question: is it possible to check and read codes by standard OBDII
reader codes from transmission? or it is possible only by DRBII)
My main problem is:
When I start my car in the morning (engine is cold and aslo transmission
oil is cold; ambient temp. 15 Deg Celcius)
Engine works fine, idle approx 900~700rpm.
And after changing from PtoR or NtoD or NtoR (and all other combination
when cold - engine stops idle - dies,
-Then I start again engine try to put gear once again sometimes is good> and I can drive - no problems all day(until next morning)
- or sometimes I must afer changing gear to D or R quickly release brake
- car is driving going forward or reverse.
If in last case if I push brake pedal just after releasing brake pedal
Engine will stop idle. But I if I push brake pedal after 100m of driving
it will be no problem all day long)
I was visiting couple mechanics (they dont have DRBII or DRBIII scanning
tool) - first diagnosis Solenoid Pack (it's replaced now brand new).
but after replacement no luck.
It could be in the valve body of the electronic
transaxle where there is a switch valve, a control valve and a regulator
valve all three related to the torque converter clutch.
How to check this Valves - if they are working correctly or not (after disassembly Valve body)?
Keep us posted.
I have this same problem with my Dodge Grand Caravan 2000. 3.8L AWD.
When it's cold outside below 15deg Celcius and car is not used for more than 8 hours, I must long wait for warming up the engine or put gear on quickly as I can just after engine start. Sometimes thats enough for all day or after couple meters I stop - engine stall again, I suppose that it could be something wrong with Valves on the Valve body, or Toque Converter is dying. I've changed already Solenoid Pack and I'm keeping changing oil at right time (ATF +3, 7176)
How do you repaired your car?
Please advise, Thanks in advance.
Regards
Chris