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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems



  • jasonmwcjasonmwc Posts: 6
    How difficult was it to install? I have a 2006 SXT with a "mini" trans cooler already installed (that is what the dealer called it) so the lines are already running from the transmission.

  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,284
    ... is very easy to install. I just took off the bumper cover to gain easy access to the front of the radiator, and installed and plumbed the add-on cooler without a problem.

    All told, it took about 2 hours, allowing for a couple of beer breaks. Be sure that you route the hoses carefully so that they do not chafe against anything.
  • I have been fortunate with this older van. I bought over a year ago with 120,00 now have 158,000. I have had to replace only mechanical things (struts, tires) and had one trans service done at about 138,000 . But now I am worried. At starting up the engine there is an intense jumping rumbling that remains for about 5 miles then drives smoothly.Every morning this jumping rumbling is stronger and lasts a little longer. does anyone know what's about to go?
  • bob134bob134 Posts: 1
    Rebuilt transmission at 90K miles. Van now has 155,000 miles and it is "harsh shifting" when slowing to a stop, also occasionally "harsh shifts" when going forward.
    Repair shop replaced control mod today---still having same problem.
    can this be fixed reasonably?
    (3.3 engine)
  • lar4lar4 Posts: 6
    I have an 84 caravan with the 3 litre automatic. I have 320000 km on it and it is just starting to stick in third gear and not shifting down when I come to a stop. Any ideas?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I think that the wise participant and lurker here in the Town Hall will take your comments with a very large grain of salt. Said another way, anybody who attempts to follow your advice will do so at their own risk.

    FWIW, given that the above post was your very first here at Edmunds two things occur to me:
    1) Said post was hard to read as it was all in "caps" and as such it comes off as somebody who is just ranting (and thus easy to ignore), and
    2) Until you've posted here for a while your credibility is highly suspect and from my perspective at least, very easy to discount.

    If I've unjustly dismissed your claims, please, offer some supporting science to back up what seems to be a preposterous recommendation.

    Best Regards,
  • lar4lar4 Posts: 6
    I looked at the oil and it seems to be over filled couild this be the cause of inproper shifting?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Did you perchance look at the oil level after the engine had been off for some period of time or was the engine running and the engine and transmission warmed up?

    Best Regards,
  • lar4lar4 Posts: 6
    I just bought the van in Dawson Creek BC Canada and drove it down to Vancouver. I did check all levels before the trip and it was a bit high .5 litres to much the van was running and in park when I checked. I siphoned some out and got the level right but now it doesn't want to shift into third until it is good and warm. I am really hoping on an easy cheap fix for it and not a transmission job any help would be great. This is my first mini van and I enjoy it and want to keep it in good shape but am hearing night mare stories about them now. I am not sure about that brake fluid in the transmission deal and am not willing to try it at this time. Thanks for the help.

  • dougd7dougd7 Posts: 71
    Does this rumbling sound like marbles in a can? Does it seem worse when the A/C is on at idle? If so, I would have your mechanic check for a cracked flywheel. Mine did the same thing. Started to do it occasionally at start up and progressed to all the time when the A/C was engaged. I thought it was the compressor, but what is happening is the flywheel is cracking in jagged patterns around the plate that bolts over the flywheel and the sound of the flywheel moving back and forth is transmitting down the crankshaft and "exiting" through the compressor. Local mechanic charged about $550. It was about $68 for the flywheel and about $466 in labor plus tax and shop supplies. For reference my vehicle is a 2000 T&C Ltd AWD with 144K miles.

    Good luck.
  • stu5stu5 Posts: 2
    I very recently bought a 2003 Voyager with 70k miles. It was made in Aug 2002. It is my 4th Chrysler minivan. I must be a glutton for punishment. My last one that I still drive is going on 200k miles. Its trans was rebuilt at 107k miles. I learned to keep changing the trans fluid with the right stuff.

    My question today: My recent purchase has been great for the first 700 miles. To be protective, I took it to the dealer to have the trans fluid flushed and filter changed. The next 100 miles I have been driving (past few days) the hard downshift started as I coast down past 30 mph. Thud each time. I still have the rest of the 2000 mile, 2 month lubricated drive train parts warrantee, so I will take it back to the dealer, since it ran well until they changed the fluid and filter. What could have happened? What should I insist on that they will probably give me a hard time about?

    I read about the early model 2003s having bad pumps. Maybe the pressure is low when coasting at low engine rpm. How come the problem started after the fluid change. What could they have screwed up?

    I will try to take it in Friday, 10/20/06. Any advice forthcoming I could use very soon.
  • Hi, I recently brought my 1999 Chrysler T&C AWD minivan (120K miles) in to the dealer for routine servicing. When the mechanic dropped the tranny pan, he found a lot of metal at the pan magnet, which appears to be the remains of a failed bearing. No burned fluid tho. He is recommending a ($2000) rebuild, depite the fact that the transmission drives and works flawlessly. For now, I just had him do the other work, replace the fluid, and drove the van home. It still runs and drives perfectly, no odd noises, no shifting problems. Is this something I can just let go for a while? Any idea which bearing it might be? Thanks!
  • I have a 1996 dodge caravan 3.0 with 3 spd trans. Will a trans from 1995 3.0 with 3 spd. work? Some say yes some say no. One said it won't do to a crank position sensor. Never heard of one. But why is it on the trans instead of engine. And could I put one on the 95 or make the van think it is there. From what I have learned it stops the spark. Please help. :confuse:
  • stu5stu5 Posts: 2
    I will do my own reply to my question.

    I took my car to the dealer with copies of the TSBs in hand pointing out what I expected them to do per Chrysler instructions. I did not expect them to do the more major surgery of dropping the trans to replace the pump, on the 2000 mile used car warantee. Unfortunately I was right. They only did the controller software update, which supposedly re-taught the trans how to shift properly (their words).

    So far, after 1 week of driving, it worked. But they did agree, if I had further problems of this type, since it was now documented, they would "fix" it again, even after the 2000 mile warantee ran out (a few more weeks from now) They didn't say how long after the expiration. When I tried to pin them down, they just mumbled.

    They said it was possible that the TSB had already been performed by a previous owner, and the new pump was in there, but had no way of knowing without pulling the trans. They further stated that the tech should have reflashed the controller when he did the fluid/filter change, and if he had, I would not have had any problems.

    Comments anybody???
  • ntbillntbill Posts: 20
    You wrote: They further stated that the tech should have reflashed the controller when he did the fluid/filter change

    The tech should reflash the controller? Wow. I'd like to have shipo's opinion on that. This is great if they reflash automatically, but I suspect that if you don't tell them, maybe they won't do the reflash.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    My opinion? Hmmm, under the old adage of "If it ain't broke, don't mess with it", I'd be very upset with my dealership if they did a reflash on my transmission when all I wanted done was a fluid and filter change. Why? The 4-Speed transmissions in our vans is a "Fuzzy Logic" system that learns your driving style and adjusts the shifts accordingly. A reflash would wipe out what the TCU has learned, causing you to have to retrain the system. That said, if there was an outstanding TSB recommending that a relfash should be done, then it's a crap shoot.

    True story: I did the European Delivery thing on my 2002 530i and while in Europe, that car performed flawlessly. When I picked it up here in the States I immediately noticed a trailing throttle to on throttle hesitation, sometimes much worse than others. I initially attributed it to the different fuel we have over here in the States, assuming that once the fuzzy logic drive-by-wire system became accustomed to the new fuel (and the driving speeds below 120 mph) that the problem would self correct. Unfortunately as days became weeks and then months without any improvement I took it to my new local dealer (I'd moved from NJ to NH in the meantime) and had them look into the problem.

    The mechanic test drove my car and initially dismissed the problem by saying "All of the manual transmission cars do that."

    I of course countered with, "Yeah, bull. It didn't do that when I had it in Europe."

    "It didn't?" He sounded genuinely surprised.

    "Nope, ran perfectly."

    He took it back into the shop and found that the computer carried a firmware revision that was released while my car was on the boat and as such couldn't possibly have been the original code. He reflashed the OBC with the (then) latest and greatest firmware version and problem solved. Had I known that the Vehicle Prep Center (VPC) or my selling dealership was going to do an obligatory reflash I would have done everything in my power to prevent that.

    Note to self, "For your next ED car leave a note in it demanding no reflash." ;-)

    Best Regards,
  • Hi guys,I'm new to the forum and need some help or opinions. I have a 03 T&C with 49k and the tranny makes a grinding noise when shifting to reverse. Also, the van will jerk if you try to move it in any gear.It feels like the brakes are holding it back and I hear a click sound inside when the brake pedal is pressed, a new sound. Any thoughts would help before its towed to the dealer. Thanks.
  • I have a 2001 Tow& Country AWD with a 4 speed transmission.
    The check engine light came on and I am getting a P0700 and P0740 Error Code.
    This is what I found on the web
    When Monitored: During Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) Operation.
    Set Condition: A) Transmission must be in EMCC, with input speed > than 1750 RPM.
    TCC/L-R sol achieves the maximum duty cycle & can’t pull engine RPM within 60 RPM of
    input speed. B) Transmissions is in FEMCC & engine slips TCC > than 100 RPM for 10
    Tcc solenoid possible causes
    • Check for misfire codes
    • Intermittent TCC solenoid
    • Check the TRANS fluid level and condition
    • Input shaft seals
    • Internal problem or TCC solenoid
    • Oil pump/shaft/seals
    • Torque converter
    • Valve body
    This is what happened. I checked my transmission fluid and it was low I added 2 quarts ATF+3
    A few days later the check engine light came on.
    I checked the transmission fluid and it seamed to be too high, I replaced all of the fluid with ATF+4.
    “Disconnected the hose from the radiator, ran the engine while adding fluid through the dip stick.”
    Problem not solved brought it to the dealer toque converter flying apart, pump pressure low, I need a new transmission $3500.
    Brought it to a transmission shop, recommended I try changing the filter if that doesn’t solve the problem just run the car the way it is.
    A rebuilt transmission would cost $2500

    Went home changed the filter there was sludge in the pan and on the magnet, nothing unusual but I don’t think I would know a problem if I say one.

    I red a lot of talk on the web about the P0740 code but nothing on what they did to fix it.
    I reset the code and took the van on the highway. Steadily accelerated to 70 mph. The light did not come on, going up a slight incline at 70mph and the light came on. I repeated this twice.
    The check engine light has to be reset each time it comes on.

    Any advice would be appreciated, I have some questions.
    Does the computer monitor the TCC all the time it is engaged or just when the engagement takes place?

    Where is the TCC solenoid, is it in the solenoid pack bolted to the front of the transmission?
    Could this be the problem? Can it be removed and cleaned?

    I am assuming the valve body is the assembly that the filter attaches to, can I remove this myself and if so what do I do with it once it is removed, can it be cleaned?

    What can I do to check for and eliminate each of the potential causes?
    • Check for misfire codes
    • Intermittent TCC solenoid
    • Check the TRANS fluid level and condition
    • Input shaft seals
    • Internal problem or TCC solenoid
    • Oil pump/shaft/seals
    • Torque converter
    • Valve body

    Thanks for your help
    Tony tony
  • get ready to replace transmission. your tranny is eating its guts as you drive. it will soon totally fail and let you sitting with a just a smooth whirring sound from the engine.

    i know, this is what happened all 3 times our 2001 T&C Limited transmission failed in the last 2 years. Just replaced it for the third time this week.

    My wife drives like a grandma, so I can assure you it's not from improper driving. I will never buy another chrysler.
  • I bought a van off my grandfather for $200. when he went to do a tranny filter change he put Dextron-Mercon Oil in it and drove it. then it wouldn't move in second gear. so he flushed it out and put ATF+3 in it. then i bought it.
    here's what it does. when you put it in drive it goes through first gear fine then it shifts to 2nd and just makes a whining noise and acts like it want to move but dont. if you put it in reverse it goes backwards like normal. To get it to move forward you have to shut it off and re-start it. are the bands just tore up or do i need a hole new tranny?
  • Tony,

    Looks like I am joining the club of Town and Country transmission woes. I'm getting the P0740 code as well. Both shops say I need a new transmissinon. I have a 2001 LXI with 95K miles. I'm shocked how bad this is. Chrysler just told me too bad and they are not going to help. I too will be out sharing the news to never buy Chrysler again. They do not stand behind their cars and are horrible quality. I'm strictly Toyota and Honda now. I urge people to run from Chrysler.
  • Can you give me the details of your P0740 error? Do you see any difference in how the van is driving.
    When do you get the error when you are going over 55 MPH ?.
    Did you do anything that was different, changing the transmission fluid, adding fluid?
    Let me know how it works out and I will keep you up to date on my situation.
  • The Town and country is seriously a bad design for their transmissinon. Do not buy this car. My transmission failed under 95 thousand miles! Poor quaility and electrical doors will fail you for sure. Run from Chrysler!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Of the three Honda Odsseys and two V6 Accords in our neighborhood only one of the accords is still on its factory transmission. That said, one of the Oddys is on its second replacement transmission. Not a good failure ratio especially considering none of them have even 80,000 miles on them yet.

    Of the three DGCs in our neighborhood only one of them has required a transmission (one of ours @ 109,000 miles). To my way of thinking at least, 100,000 miles on a slush-box transmission isn't at all bad, and as such when the transmission in our 1998 went out last Spring I didn't hesitate for a moment regarding what to do. I simply had a factory remanufactured unit installed as quickly as possible.

    Run from Chrysler? Not me. My wife and I have owned cars from Japan, America and Germany and by far the two DGCs that we own have been the most reliable of the bunch (well, two of the German cars were ultra reliable too, they just didn't get driven as many miles).

    Best Regards,
  • Well guess what? The transmission is gone...Luckily, it was replaced under warranty minus the deductible. It was in the shop for a week,not too bad considering the dealership was sold the next day after it was towed. We are now looking for a new vehicle though. A transmission should last for more than 48k. Thanks
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    This comment isn't aimed at any one person who is having transmission problems but it never ceases to amaze me that people fail to do normal routine preventative maintenance such as changing the fluid and filter at the recommended interval (or sooner) and then can't understand why their transmission didn't meet their expectations for service life.
    The same goes for the coolant. Extended life coolant doesn't mean it lasts for the life of the vehicle, just that it lasts longer than traditional antifreeze.
  • How often was the fluid and filter changed in the 95,000 miles? And if so, who changed it? Dealer or quik-lube place?
  • In response,all the preventative maitenance had been performed. The transmission was serviced by dealer and I do the oil,filters,and etc. It's fixed now so problem isn't so much a problem now. We had over a 100k on the 97 T&C with no problems. We'll just keep our fingers crossed.
  • Hi all,

    I have a 2006 Town and Country that I bought in May this year. This past friday when I was heading out to work I put the car in reverse and the car didn't move. I put it in drive and the car didn't move either. I'm not sure if its a tranmission problem or not. The parking brake is off. Nothing out of the ordinary has happened, I parked the car thursday night and friday I was about to take it to work and it just doesn't move.

    To me it feels like the brakes are engaged for some reason and they are not being released. When I put the car in reverse or drive it feels like the car wants to move but something is stopping it from moving and thats why I think the brakes are engaged.

    Has anyone had this problem or even heard about it? Again this is a new car, a 2006 Town and Country with about 6K miles on it.

    I have it scheduled to be towed Monday morning to the dealer but I wanted to hear if somebody else has had this problem.

    Thanks for your input.

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