Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaMember Posts: 15,153
    Yeah, those pressed joints can be a real PITA. A separating fork is extremely useful (and inexpensive!) for this task, but it typically destroys the boot. If you want to keep the joints or the boot is not replaceable, this is not the method to use. Before buying a fork, my methodology for removing them was to loosen the nut until it is approximately even with the bolt (maybe just *slightly* further off the bolt than perfectly flush) in order to protect the threads, then impact it with a 2# sledge until it releases. For particularly stubborn ball joints, placing stout pressure on the joint by using a pry bar between the A-arm and steering knuckle while impacting the bolt with the sledge usually does the trick. If that step is necessary, a second set of hands is extremely useful! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • intellsurfintellsurf Member Posts: 2
    my 1997 dodge grand carvan needs a transmission does any one have a used or good deal on one located in central ca thanks
  • sbigrassbigras Member Posts: 2
    We've been having a real nightmare with our 2004 Grand Caravan. The transmission keeps going into limp mode.

    We've been back to the dealer 6 times in the last three months. The last few visits every few days. Last night I managed to drive it about 5km from the dealership before it acted up again.

    Once reset, the van drives fine for a while and then progressively drives worse and worse. Shifts get rougher and rougher and the van seems to bull after around 70kph. It's almost like being hit by a strong gust of wind while driving on the highway only over and over every few seconds. Shortly after this starts, the van goes into limp mode.

    The dealer has replaced the Selenoid pack and the valve housing twice. They have also checked the wiring and replaced the PCM and its wiring harness. All to no avail.

    They're now dismantling the transmission to check out its inner workings.

    Any ideas on what all this might be caused by?
  • sonofadockersonofadocker Member Posts: 12
    Your transmission has a magnetic filter on the drivers side. The dealer is just taking the filter out. Cleaning off the metal shavings and giving you back the van . You have so much metal in the oil it is going into safety limp mode . Aamco did my tranny for 2200.00 and financed it 147.00 a month no interest if you pay in full in six months The dealership is wasting your time and money
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited July 2010
    sonofadocker, I assume your post is tongue-in-cheek as there is zero evidence of anything even remotely resembling what you wrote.

    As for sbigras, I might be inclined to find a different service center as yours seems pretty incompetent. Were it that I was working on your van I'd start by looking at the wiring harnesses and connection points, I suspect an electronic short. Long story short, if your transmission operates normally, even for a short period of time, then there's a pretty good bet the mechanical portion of your tranny is still serviceable.

    Other common problem areas include (but are not limited to) the following items:

    -- Use of the incorrect ATF, these transmissions absolutely-positively REQUIRE Chrysler's MOPAR ATF+4 (i.e. not Lucas, not Amsoil, not Dextron, not Mercon, and no "Universal" ATFs), and only ATF+4. If you suspect your service center has been using the incorrect fluid, fire them immediately and find someone that knows what they're doing.

    -- Plugged or damaged cooling lines/external transmission cooler.

    FWIW #1, if I recall correctly, the pan magnet is on the passenger side if you feel inclined to pull the pan, change the filter and freshen the fluid yourself.

    FWIW #2, stay away from Aamco, they're an obscene rip-off when it comes to these transmissions; ninety-nine times out of one-hundred they’ll say, "Yup, you need an new transmission..." without even testing it or finding out what is actually wrong with the unit in question.

    Keep us posted.

    Best regards,
  • badtrannybadtranny Member Posts: 33
    Had this problem years ago. Fault code 7055, and 7000? (general tranny computer malfunction.)

    I think I know where the solenoid pack is located on the car, right front bottom. I can't see if from the top, and have been too hot and lazy to check it from the bottom.

    Some websites are pointing to the speed sensors. I doubt that they are bad, but what is the rational for suggesting it? Just because they are cheaper than the solenoid block that is related to the fault code??

    Who has Chrysler ATF 4 cheap? I figure I will replace the fluid and filter while I am at it,,, or perhaps when I drop the pan I will find something(s) that might indicate it is too late.

    I heard a clunk in the tranny while pulling away from a curb last week. Then the check engine lite came on and I am stuck in second. Check the error codes and saw the 7055. The tranny was rebuilt 100k ago and has been solid until last week. I sometimes pack more crap in the van than I need too, so I might be at fault too.

    Does anybody have any links to pictures, diagrams, or problem flow charts online?

    Regards, and thanks,

    Badtranny 2010
  • moodyblue97moodyblue97 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 that keeps going into what I believe is "Limp Mode". The wierd thing is, during the cool weather I do not have this trouble. On a hot day, after a long drive it goes into limp mode. I can pull over, turn it off, then back on and go. When I slow down it will go back into the limp mode.
    I took my van to a transmission shop, they said it was sending out codes that it was overheating. They also showed me my transmission pan with much metal and told me it was time to rebuild it.(with 130,000 miles I thought this sounded right) So we did and it just so happened that the weather cooled off. I went through fall, winter and spring without a hitch. Summer came and I had to go back to the shop. It was sending the same codes. So they tried to put something in learnig mode but that didn't work. Then they replaced the solenoid, it continues to go into limp mode.
    I don't know what to do, this is just a guessing game :confuse:
    Has anyone out there had this exact trouble?

    also my engine light comes on after it goes into limp mode, I don't think it did that before the rebuild. Aftr sitting overnight, the next day it is usually gone. Then the whole senario starts over.
  • houndog101houndog101 Member Posts: 10
    FWIW #2, stay away from Aamco, they're an obscene rip-off when it comes to these transmissions; ninety-nine times out of one-hundred they’ll say, "Yup, you need an new transmission..." without even testing it or finding out what is actually wrong with the unit in question.

    You can't make a statement like this unless you've been to every AAmco in the country.. My nephew runs 2 of them and I'll put thier work up against anything you do, anytime ,any day..
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Sorry Houndog, I've been to enough AAmco's to have experience the sham business model their name is built upon. The thing is, I haven't been able to decide whether their service centers are deliberately staffed by folks whom are grossly incompetent or whether they hire folks that willfully mislead customers as a means of extortion. Either way, I hold them in even lower esteem than Jiffy Boob (if that's possible). Are there a few out there that are staffed by competent and ethical individuals? Probably; but that doesn't change my recommendation, "Avoid Aamco at all cost."
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Member Posts: 31
    Make sure yours trans cooler is flowing OK not plugged up or kinked hoses..
  • ugly_guyugly_guy Member Posts: 1
    Replaced the Speed Idle control (Air Throttle Control) which may cost you $66.00 for original part, don't try third party part because I have replaced one and it failed after 3 months, also remember to run the van at speed 40 MPH for a while to let ECM save data. My van is Sport Caravan 1997 3.3 Engine 160K miles, it take a while for me to figure out this problem. Good luck
  • tbl01tbl01 Member Posts: 1
    had the same problem with one my son bought from a shyster. It was in limp mode, second gear really. Ran a new ground to the transmission control module and replaced the input and out sensors in the transmission, each about $40. Had transmission power flushed, lots of crap in it. tip off was that speedometer wouldn't work either. After sensor replacemnt all was well. Well worth trying, they simply unsrew and screw back in.
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    I dont even have the van anymore but I'll pass this on in hopes it saves someone a huge chunk of $$$CASH$$$. After driving myself to distraction with the van always locking into 2nd gear I broke down and reluctantly took it to AAMCO. The tech connected his hand held diagmostic and we took a spin around the mall parking lot. He said it was the speed sensor. "Look we are going 25 and it says we are going 0 miles per hour."
    Me: "But what if its not the Speed sensor?" (I'd heard that line before)
    Him: "It IS. 100% garantee". He gave me a good price and told me it could be the speed sensor OR its connector plug. Either way less then $200. I scheduled the repair.

    I was thrilled..... but being a cheap and resourceful guy When I got home I managed to get an engine diagram showing the location of the sensor. I found it unplugged it and scrubbed the plug and sensor contacts with GOOP and a toothbrush. After rinsing & drying everything thoroughly, I waited and then connected it back up and.....
    I never had a problem with the transmission again. Damn I forgot to buy lunch for that mechanic.who saved me the cost of a new tranny.
  • bgphotobgphoto Member Posts: 1
    My 99 has about 170k miles on it. Seems the transmission is on it's last leg. As you drive down the hiway it seems to surge to about 5k rpms then come back down while you are accellerating. It might go fine for 15 minutes and then do this again.

    This usually will happen while your getting up to speed but wife says it surges and seems to jump most of the time.

    Transmission fluid is full.

    Any ideas?
  • tomk4848tomk4848 Member Posts: 2
    88,000+ miles on my 2003 Grand Caravan ES, The latest problem has been diagnosed by a local dealership as a faulty Transmission Control Module. The dealership needs to get the part from another dealer because Dodge Parts doesn't have any in stock.

    Long delay without my wheels - 8 days. Is there a run on this part? Common vehicle - should have stocked parts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Could be a lot of things, most of them-----er----not good.

    About all you can do is have the trouble codes read to see if there's any hint there, and then have hydraulic pressure tests performed to isolate the problem.
  • tomk4848tomk4848 Member Posts: 2
    Posting Update - I'm now told that the part should arrive at the dealership on Aug 24th. Will be 3 weeks without the vehicle.
  • tierod1tierod1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a shop and put a BCM and A PCM thought is was fixed a week later the headlights started staying on,did you ever find out what was going on ?
  • matty9815matty9815 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    I'm in the UK and have the Grand Voyager (same as the caravan), and am having exactly the same problem. My issue is compunded by the fact that no-one over here seems to know what the hell they're doing with it, and will just default to saying it needs a new transmission.

    When it went into limp mode I called out the AA and to my amazement the guy that came to me used to live in the states and had spent 20 years working on these gearboxes. He told me also that it was the output speed sensor, 100% guaranteed, and the codes and the fact that the speedo didn't work just backed that up.

    I decided to take it to my local Chrysler Main dealer, thinking they would know what they were doing. They charged me £150, and as I drove off the forecourt the light came back on and it started doing the same thing. I took it back to them, and they said it needed more diagnostics - another £100. My question to them was - Why hasn't it fixed the speedo if you've replaced the correct sensor? they said - I don't know!!!

    The clip that plugs into the sensor was damaged, and the dealer just cable tied it on to secure it - is it possible that it could be the plug that is also faulty?? :sick:
  • osu1986osu1986 Member Posts: 1
    Last night, we came to a stop at a stop sign and it popped out of drive. A couple of secs later, it went back in on its own. This happened twice. We are afraid to drive it now as I work 20 miles from home. When we got home, I checked the trans fluid and it looked dirty but it did not smell bad. What do you think?
  • whtewlfewhtewlfe Member Posts: 1
    :I have a 93 voyager and am told the control modulator that tells all the sensors what to do has a pin leak in it and this is causing my van to do such things as when i take off from a stop sometimes it will not shift out of first or second gear into drive unless i stop and turn the engine completely off then on again and shift slowly into drive then sometimes it will go through all the proper changing of the gears and im off and rolling and sometimes i must repeat this procedure repeatedly and so far eventually it will take hold and function properly, then sometimes it will just drop into neutral from whatever speed im traveling be it 70 or 35 any help would be appreciated they quote me 5to800 dollars as just an estimate to fix what they aamco say is the problem
  • stormiceesstormicees Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Town and Country has 121,000 miles and the transmission is acting up all of the sudden. It lightly jerked a coupla times three days ago. Yesterday going 60-70 mph, it jumped into neutral. Coasted to a stop. It wouldn't do anything. After cooling a bit, it wouldn't do anything in reverse. It went forward a short way and jumped into neutral again. Had it towed home. A few hours later, checked fluid and it was normal. The van then did the exact same thing. Nothing in reverse and made coupla circles in the yard and jumped into neutral again. Talked to the best local transmission shop and they said the transmission is out and needs to be rebuilt at a cost of $1800 to $2000 . The van is only in fair shape. I bought it used. $2000 is only slightly less than its value anyway. Is there a way to fix it short of rebuilding the transmission? Please give me your thoughts.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You could try to store a used one from a wrecker, if they a) have inspected it b) will warranty the parts and c) have it all cleaned up and bagged (a good sign of a good wrecker).

    You could try to locate one at
  • ayalaboy1ayalaboy1 Member Posts: 1
    I just got done changing the tranny filter and tapping off with castrol ATF+4, now the problem is im getting a noise when shifting in to REVERSE and DRIVE, any ideas??? thanx in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Did it meet this spec #? MOPAR ATF +4 Type 9602 or Equivalent

    What kinda noise?
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    When a car owner has a major repair on an older vehicle, it is only natural to consider whether or not the repair is worth it, especially if the vehicle is only worth a few thousand dollars. However, the mistake most car owners make is that they compare the cost of the repair to the vehicle's worth. This is not the right way to make the decision. Really you need to compare the repair cost to the alternative; the alternative being what is the cost of a good reliable vehicle. So in your situation you have to ask, does spending $2,000 make the vehicle reliable enough that I don't need to replace it with another "more reliable vehicle"? The cost of a "more reliable vehicle" will usually be a lot more than $2,000. If you believe this repair makes the T&C reliable enough that you don't expect to have any other major repairs in the short term (say 2 years), then it's probably worthwhile to fix it. You may want to get the T&C thoroughly checked out by a good mechanic to see if there are any other problems. I had a 1986 Chrysler Laser that I bought for $1,200. Within one year I replaced the engine and transmission for $4,000. In total I spent $6,000 on the car over a 5 year period, but I drove the car 60,000 miles. That works out to $0.10 per mile. Where can one find a car that costs $.10 per mile? I gave the car to my brother and he still drives it today. Good luck.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I had a similar experience.

    We bought our 1998 DGC Sport 3.8 new in July of 1998 and it was my wife's daily driver and the family vacation vehicle for the next five years until she bought a new 2003 DGC ES 3.8. While we didn't actually need a third vehicle at the time, we opted to keep the 1998 as a "Home Depot and dump-run" hack, and over the next two years the odometer advanced from about 72,000 miles to about 75,000 miles.

    In 2005 I took a new contract that had me driving a bit over 120 miles per day (just for the commute) and decided that leasing another BMW was probably not a good option given 30,000+ miles I was likely to drive per year, and as such, I pressed the 1998 into service as my daily driver. Less than a year later I found myself rolling down an exit ramp as I watched the odometer click over to 109,000 miles and throught to myself, "Hmmm, I don't remember this ramp being bumpy before now." It turns out it wasn't; the jarring I had felt was the transmission lunching on itself.

    The rest of the van was in pretty good shape and so I opted to put a factory remanufactured transmission from Chrysler into it for the cost of $2,600; turned out to be a good decision. While I changed contracts a few times between then and 2008 when I sold the van, I managed to rack up enough miles on the old girl to just turn over 180,000 a couple of days before I got my new car. So, the cost of the tranny spread over 71,000 miles worked out to a hair less than 3.7 cents per mile. Not too shabby. :)
  • shadetreehelpshadetreehelp Member Posts: 1
    I have the same error with my 2001 Chrysler. The engine light came on this weekend and the code came back PO740 and PO700. I am not experiencing any difference in the car performance. I have not done anything different to the van's transmission in a few years. It has 125,000 miles.
    Does this mean I will need to replace my Torque Converter which means a rebuilt transmission?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    edited November 2010
    Assuming your transmission is running correctly, you probably don't need to open anything up. Take it to a dealership or a qualified transmission shop and have the extended codes read (they report on items like clutch thickness); I suspect (in order of likelihood) the TCM, the solenoid pack, low fluid level, or a clogged filter.
  • thefngthefng Member Posts: 1
    I've recently discovered a leak on the transmission of my 2002 chrysler t&c. i removed the pan and replaced the gasket to no avail..I've just realized that the leak appears to be coming from the front of the trans above the pan. I'm not a mechanic but I'm a fairly skilled parts changer. The problem I'm having is this: i would like a pic or schematic of the same transmission as I'm afraid to go any further on the repair. I can make out what looks like some type o seal where the fluid is leaking from but need to remove more stuff to get at it. there are three screws/bolts on the piece i would like to remove but they look like set or adjustment screws? i could solve this problem in a second with a diagram. Any ideas? thanks
  • raygonzalezraygonzalez Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 town and country. The transmission slipped today so I checked the fluild. It was low so I told my son to add some. He ended up adding Type F instead of the ATF+4. He had added less than half a quart by the time I caught him. Is this going to cause me a major problem. I am planning on having the fluid changed, but I would like to wait until after Christmas. Should I change it ASAP?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yup, change it ASAP, the Type-F has friction properties that are not correct for the Mopar transmission and can cause the computer to constantly engage/disengage various clutches trying to get things locked up the way the programming expects. This clutch work can (and often does) destroy transmissions in short order.
  • quincymortierquincymortier Member Posts: 2
    Hi there

    I have a late 90's T&C Lxi and it got into an accident.
    While going 40miles an hour the van hit the curb and the bottom of the car was hit badly.
    After the car was towed to my drive way i looked at the damage and saw that the transmission sump and the hose running in front of it were hit and broke.( along with other minor parts)

    Can someone tell me if its possible to change the sump itself without taking out the transmission and what hose is located in front of the sump (towards the bumper)

    Id appreciate it very much if someone could help me out and explain it to me.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    By transmission sump, I assume you mean the pan? If, so then the answer is yes, I'm certain the pan can be replaced without removing the transmission itself. That's the normal way to change out the tranny fluid and replace the filter - just drop the pan, catch all the fluid that comes out, replace the filter, put the pan back on (with a new gasket or sealant), and refill the tranny with the proper fluid.

    I do not know what the hose is you're referring to. Our Grand Caravan is not at the house right now or I would crawl under and have a look.
  • quincymortierquincymortier Member Posts: 2
    thanks allot
    will defenitly get to work on it when i can.
    Im not at my place, so i dont have any of my tools to do the job so it wont be a job for this week.

    The hose itself is completely torn and cant see where it leads too
    So if someone could still help me out with saying what it is and where i might be able to find a new one , would be very much appreciated.

    thanks for the help
  • rbuck57frbuck57f Member Posts: 5
    Have 136K miles and getting a shudder that feels like clutches slipping - no warning lights. Especially noticeable going uphill at low power in high gears (2K rpm at 40 mph). Fluid is full and correct, has been flushed/filled 3 times since i bought new, filter changed too. Any thoughts?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Flushing your transmission is NOT RECOMMENDED by any manufacturer (including Chrysler). Why?

    A) the reverse flow of the fluid during the process can (and often does) damage internal valve bodies and such,
    B) possible contamination from dirty fluid (many shops do not properly maintain the fluid in their flush machines), and
    C) the potential for the introduction of non ATF+4 fluid (in the case of your transmission) that WILL negatively impact the ability of your transmission to shift (due to the incorrect friction properties of the new fluid). Here again, many shops use "universal" ATF, a fluid that is "universal" only in the sense that it is universally bad for all transmissions.

    I recommend you get whatever witch's brew of ATF out of your transmission by either dropping the pan and refilling with ATF+4 several times with say twenty or thirty miles of driving between each pan drop. As an alternative, if you have an oil extractor you can simply suck roughly a third of the ATF out of your tranny and then refill without having to drop the pan.
  • rbuck57frbuck57f Member Posts: 5
    Drain & fill is what was done, at the dealership using ATF+4.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Are you sure they used ATF+4? I ask because shudder is a very common complaint when the ATF has been contaminated with non-ATF+4 fluids.
  • rbuck57frbuck57f Member Posts: 5
    It's a Dodge dealer, so I expect they would, but you never can tell. I think I'll have them do it again and see if that helps since it isn't hugely expensive. Been 6 months since last change and only recently started.
  • rugbyjesusrugbyjesus Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country that recently has been giving me issues. After starting it in the morning and throughout the day it will not shift into reverse or drive. I put it back into park or neutral and try again and it might go into gear. Also slowing down to a stop it will sometimes clunk before the vehicle stops. I am obviously worried about this since it is the only means of conveyance for my wife. Is there anything that I could do to help or fix this without taking it to a garage? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • rbuck57frbuck57f Member Posts: 5
    Decided to take shipo's advice - got an extractor and am cycling thru replacing with new ATF+4. Will advise....
  • caravanridercaravanrider Member Posts: 1
    my 2002 Grand caravan sport 3.3, 118700 miles on it was purchased 2 months ago. Since then it has following transmission problem. When i start it in morning and put it in drive, it will drive and shift ok. But when I will make first stop it wont grab first gear again. Only after pressing on accelerator and engine revs upto 3k to 3.5 k it would grab first gear with a harsh jerk. After that it will drive ok during that visit. all this will happen again after it rests for 6-8 hours again. Tranny fluid level is good. When I bought it , engine light had a code of P0700 among several others. I fixed other codes at that time and reset computer. No engine code since then even though this problem persisted. I have no idea about duration of this problem neither know what kind of fluid had been put in it in past. Fluid looks reddish and good, no smell.
    Wondering where to start. Someone suggested a TSB regarding "low reverse accumulator cover & o ring" but to me, it seems that TSB does not apply to 3.3 engines ! any help would be appreciated.
  • qdmazoqdmazo Member Posts: 1
    My cooling fan stayed on after shutoff. I pulled the fuse and drove for a week then transmission stopped working all of a sudden at an intersection. Cannot reverse and goes forward in jerks only with some noise below. Fluid is still red and does not smell. Is this an electrical or mechanical problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    well hard to say but your transmission is cooled through your radiator, and the cooling fan keeps the radiator cool, sooooo......... :confuse:
  • ed0628ed0628 Member Posts: 1
    How many miles do you have on this vehicle? Has the tranny been serviced, i. e. , Oil changes, filter cleaned/replaced, Flushed?

    Suggest you check the Dip Stick [engine running, in Park] for oil quantity. Wipe Stick with clean white cloth to check for Color of Oil [ pink preferred] .

    If oil level is low, add ATF 4. If color is brown, it needs replacing. If color is black, a professional opinion may be needed to assess the risks of changing the oil.

    Checking the tranny for computer codes and measuring the pump pressure to determine if internal leakages are present, may be necessary steps to take as part of the diagnoses.
    [ Tasks for transmission facilities ].

    I wish you well with it,

  • rugbyjesusrugbyjesus Member Posts: 2
  • johnnylethaljohnnylethal Member Posts: 1
    Hello All,

    99 T&C Transmission issue. When driving to the store, the tranny just gave out like it was in neutral. I shifted back and forth from N to D and it finally caught again. It did that 10 times in 2 miles while trying to drive home. Is it dying on me? Or could a fluid change get us some more use out of this old friend? Thanks.
  • jr15jr15 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 T&C van has an issue where the output shaft sensor on the transmission fails and needs replacement (Common problem from forums). Because output and corresponding input shaft sensors are < $20 I replaced both. Both are magnet type sensors and read <600 ohms.

    Symptom is when sitting still speedometer fluctuates between 10 and 20 mph, making transmission think vehicle is moving and causing sensor fault.

    This is the strange part, if I do not have anything electrical running (lights, heater turn signals) everything is fine and Speedo is at 0. If I turn on anything - Speedo starts fluctuating and I get failure.

    I have replaced both sensors, Battery, and cleaned all connections connectors and terminals. When I put a DVM across battery I get 12.3 volts, crank engine and I get 14.5. When I induce failure I do not see any change from the 14.5 volt readings.

    I wish the alternator wasn't $200 and I would replace it to see what happens, but not sure this is the issue? Any ideas on what I could try?
  • sroraisrorai Member Posts: 1
    My uncle had a Manual from the factory it was only a 5 speed. When you had 8 passengers in it; it wouldn't go over 65 lol. It didn't have a turbo and I think that would have helped but it also didn't come with factory ac he went and had an after market installed and man you could tell when the compressor kicked in while driving down the road lol. Here is the link to a site that shows that they had one available it was rare mind you but they did make them. rbo-vans-out-there
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