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If it is constant, you might have a cracked flex plate (a stamped piece of metal that connects the output shaft of the transmission to the torque converter), however, if it only happens immediately after changing gears, the noise is the solenoid and is completely normal.
Best regards,
Shipo
The (relatively inexpensive to fix) bad news is that there are most likely a number of solder connections in your instrument cluster that need resoldering.
Best regards,
Shipo
About two months ago it started the trans started to slip in the morning (if i drive it around the block for 10 minutes) then it functions properly. through internet search i was able to detect that it may be it was low on transmission fluid. Adding the fluid ( about 3 quarts) the problem disappeared for about a month. Last week the problem started again and it seems it gets worse as the days gets colder.
The check engine light has come on, i got the following codes from the ODB-II equipment;
a) P0732 -- Gear 2 incorrect ratio
b) p1782 -- Pressure switch
c)P0700 -- Transmission Control System (MIL request)
I need help to know what implication these codes have on my tranny, is it worth it to repair or should i just cut my losses?
Note; Last time i didn`t flush the transmission fluid (just added some more), should i do this now?
If you have to rebuild the transmission, you might consider cutting your losses given the mileage on the vehicle, but it all depends on whether you can get into something else that is reliable for an amount in your budget. There is nothing worse than abandoning one old vehicle only to get into another one and have serious maintenance/repair issues to address right away. :sick:
If the engine and other drivetrain components are in good shape, my concern at this point would be the reliability of the electrical system. I have a '98 DGC with 213,000 miles on it that is dead due to electrical gremlins. The rest of the van is in excellent condition. I really wanted to use it a couple more years, but my wife said she had enough and we bought a new car. The van is still in the driveway....
Good luck.
You might want to do a complete transmission drain and refill and clean the filter/screen and see what that does for you. Do not do a flush. And make sure you fill with the right type of transmission fluid.
and an out of state dealer replaced the transmission, It has about 5,000 miles on it and I went to go out yesterday and the transmission is gone again, of course my original warranty ran out 3 weeks ago. We did have our local dealer check it out when we returned from our trip, they said it was fine. Does anyone know if the dealership or Chrysler should be responsible? I mean it only has 5,000 miles on it, and they charged $3,500 to put it in.
From a different prespective, there are many-many documented cases of 3.3 and 3.8 liter engines that have three, four, and even five-hundred thousand trouble free miles on them with no more than regular maintenance and a few changes of valve cover gaskets.
Long story short, you couldn't pay me to have a Chrysler minivan with the Mitsusquishy 3.0. :P
Best regards,
Shipo
Has anyone ever experienced this or have any useful advice? I'm on Maui and the service shops either are worthless or a rip off or both!
Please email response to mauikeith73@gmail. Com or here, either way.
Mahalo, Keith
I'm new to this great forum and hope someone can help me.
I have a 1996 Chrysler T&C LXi with 154k miles. The van has always been properly maintained at our local dealer since new. The engine runs great and we have never really had any of the more serious ($$$) problems that often plague this van.
As of the last few days, the van starting making a whinning (high pitch) sound that seems to get louder as the RPMs increase. Almost sounds like a siren
The transmission has never been changed nor any associated electronic control modules. The only work that was ever done to the tranny was the cleaning of the valve body and replacement filter approximately 40k miles ago. The tranny has been working fine and continues to work without issues except that it is starting to make this horrible whinning sound that can be heard from 25 feet away! I believe it is the tranny since I checked the engine and the sound is coming from the lower right side of the engine (driver's side). I've heard of differential pins breaking and some other things that can go wrong that can really get expensive to fix.
Any idea what it might be? Has anyone experienced the same sympton?
Before I pull the entire tranny down and spent big $$$, I am hoping one of the talented Chrysler guys on this forum points me to some possible causes of this whinning noise.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Thank you in advance for your replies.
Johnny
We thought it was a transmission problem, but after stopping and calling our former mechanic in MI, he informed us that it was referred to as "harmonics" in the power steering hose. He said that the noise would stop if we shut it off and waited about 5 min. Sure enough, it did. He also asked if the noise was only inside the car - by the driver's feet, and it was... because that's where the hose is - on the other side of the firewall.
He went on to say that the the noise is caused by the fluid in the hose, and that lengthing the hose will cause it to stop whining. He said that there is a kit for this "hose-lengthening" and he installed it on our van the following day. We had no problems on our way back to OH.
Thanks for the feedback though.
The whinning or winding sound that is coming from my transmission is the tranny pump that is going bad. Is this serious, 'yes'. It needs to be replaced very soon or tranny damage will occur that will result in spending more $$$.
My mechanic friend mentioned the following:
One way to quickly test whether the problem is with the differential or with the tranny pump is to put the car in 'Park' and slowly increasing the RPMs to 3000. If the whinning sound gets louder and more pronounced as you increase the RPMs...the problem most likely is the tranny pump.
If the whinning sound isn't heard until you start driving and gets louder and more pronounced as you speed up...that is more indicative of a differntial problem.
In either case though...the transmission needs to be remove from the van and checked.
I'm getting some cost estimates tomorrow and will share with all.
Take Care
Replaced the plugs and new set of tires but still shudders every now and then.
I need to drive the vehicle on a 3600 mile trip, any thoughts?
Always start with the least intrusive (read costly) method. It turns out that the winding sound on my '96 Chrysler T&C LXi was due to the tranny pump not being able to pump enough fluid since the tarnsmission filter was too dirty and not enough fluid could pass through it especially at higher RPMs...when the winding sound was loudest. It turns out that although I had the transmission filter and fluid changed about 50k miles ago...the shop never flushed the transmission cooler (which is part of the radiator assembly) and the sediment (i.e. clutch material etc) found its way to the filter (as it should). Between the old sediment and the additional clutch material wear particles that are expected...the filter became clogged enough to cause the fluid starvation which in turn caused the winding sound.
I have since changed the fluid (ATF+4) and the filter and it works like a charm and is super quiet now I did this myself by buying the fluid at Walmart ($3.67 qt) and the transmission filter kit at the local Kragens ($9.99). In total, I spent about $35 and the van shifts like it was new...without the annoying sound.
Amazing since I was ready to bring it to a transmission shop that was going to charge me $2300 - $2600 to rebuild the tranny. They had me convinced and told me I was lucky to have gotten 154k miles without doing a tranny rebuild.
I hope this helps someone that has run into this winding/whinning sound that occurs when parked or moving and gets louder in proportion to the RPMs.
Take Care
rotor in the distributor. on the bottom where the screw fits. looking at top of rotor
it looked ok. How it had a smooth idle and would start quickly. I suppose as the crack
got worse when it got to operating temp it would die and start back up. Thanks to all
who posted and helped me trace down my problem. van now performs great.
have 186,000 miles on this one have over 250,000 on my other van got to replace radiator.
BTW, I think Chrysler is unfairly bashed on transmissions. Mine failed because the seal on the reverse piston tore (forensic tear-down). That was probably due to adding stop leak (never use again) for a front seal leak that was my fault (long story). It seems most of today's >4500 lb minivans w/ V6 engines have transmission problems. We considered a used Honda Odyssey a friend offered to sell, but I found those trannys fail like clockwork at 30K miles. He was on his 3rd tranny at 90K and my sister's Odyssey on the 2nd at 70K.
If you want a transmission that lasts buy a 4-cyl van, but I don't think anyone makes them anymore, due to public demand. I can't rant since we recently bought a 02 T&C AWD w/ 3.8L to satisfy my wife. I will change the ATF4 fluid and filter every 60K, but still expect the tranny will need rebuilding every 100K. There is just too much load from a monster van. However, mileage is amazing, comparable to our 3500 lb 2.4L van on the highway.
FWIW, our '07 DGC makes little noise when shifting into reverse. There's something that comes from the linkage, a change in the engine rpms, and a soft clunk as the drive train torques up.
We have a 2002 T/C with 3 speed transmission. It currently has 230K miles. I have replaced fluid and filter. On occasion, now about 20% of the time, when you are driving on highways above 50 MPH when going up slight grades or hills the tranny will downshift into 3rd (with engine reaching 3000 RPM) and then if you press a little more on the gas or the grade gets steeper it will downshift again with engine jumping to 4500 RPM. When this occurs and we back off of the gas, it will get back to normal gear and about 2000 RPM but will continue erratic shifting while finishing the grade or hill. When this situation occurs, it is continues during the course of the trip while maintaining the highway speed. If you stop the vehicle and restart either with the engine running or by stopping the engine with the car in park, the transmission seems to return to normal operation.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
davidwt in PA
When the vehicle acts up and hits 3000 and 4500 RPM, it will not continue to speed up or get to a point where it will mechanically shift to the next faster gear. When it down shifts to the low gear with the 4500 RPM it will not speed up at all and this is even on a slight grade. The only way to get it out of the revving mode and low gear is to let your foot off of the gas pedal.
The TCM [of the 41TE] considers operating conditions such as ambient and transmission temperature, engine loading changes caused by climbing grades, loss of engine power at high altitude due to lower air density, and engagement of automatic speed control in determining when shifts should occur. On up-grades, "anti-cycling" logic assures that down shifts do not occur cyclically. After a down shift to Third occurs, the TCM determines the torque required to maintain the existing speed and/or acceleration level and only allows an up shift if the same torque level is available in Fourth gear. When speed control is engaged, down shifts on up-grades occur somewhat earlier than with driver control of the throttle to assure that speed is maintained.
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/41TE.html
Best regards,
Shipo