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The Dealer has had my car for over a week now, focused on this issue for 4 Days now and no clue. They have had 2 techs look at it and can't find the cause. The town car is nice but, shoot I am missing my car.
Any clues?
Regards,
Airwolf1000
It appears to happen when you go over a bump of some sort.
It sounds like something is bumping the underside of the vehicle.
I don't think its a shock. I can't find anything wrong with them.
It's almost like a thump that happens when your steam fired boiler heats up.
For those of you that live in an 80 year old white elephant like I do...
anyway.... I'm ignoring it... I don't need this at this point.
Kevin
2000 V8 20K miles cordovan/lite graphite loaded...
Leaf blowers, ram air why not go all the way and put a shaker hood scoop from a 1969 Mustang or Torino on their LS?
If you don't believe me, I have a picture of a LS undergoing water testing in AZ that shows how much of a bow wave the car can push.
Brian
LLSOC Member
Mike
Mike
If you get a solution, please post it for the rest of us.
Is the very small gain in HP due to the position of the intake worth the very real risk of destroying your engine?
sorry first of all to hear you guys did not have a solution. But most of all sorry you guys are experiencing the clunking too. I love my LS but I just hate the fact that somethings are complicated. The Dealer could not explain how they got the noise to go away. I believe I will pick it up today. Now to DBossman. I think you and I have a different clunking. Brian I would hope that two technicians would check the shocks. It would be a simple fix at that point. We will see...Klarsons description sounds more like my sound. Now when I go over a broken up road all the clunks are successive with each bump I hit. When the car is acting up of course...
I will keep you guys posted on this issue if a solution is reached
Now Regarding the Manifold issue since I have a 2000 V8 Sport. How do you know you have a bad Manifold?
Regards,
Airwolf
Manifold: Motor Trend just wrapped up their long term test of an LS-V8 and an LS-V6 Getrag. They had one problem with the V8 - a cracked manifold. They said one of their drivers could just barely hear the 'spitting' sound (my word) of the exhaust leak under the hood. They also said their LS was in the shop for a long time waiting on the part. Interestingly they didn't say *how* long, but they did say that the shop down time was responsible for the V8 having so few miles on it during the test (15000 vs 20000+ for the V6). The V6 also had but one problem: a broken cooling system hose clamp. It happened in Death Valley on a 115 degree day.
Best regards all of you; and watch The Weather Channel more closely,
Mike
things that you should be concerned with *are* a car with 30,000K.
That turns out to be 30 million miles or KM. You should look for something with less
miles than that. If the car has 30K on it, that's a different story. Based on comments here, there is nothing to be wary of, outside of worn tires. The car should be well broken in, getting the maximum mpgs and maxmimum performance. The only thing that some have criticized is the mating of a V6 to an automatic, which people tend to be happy with for the most part. I have that car with a manual, and it seems a bit under-powered at times (going from off the line to 50 mph) but for passing from 55 and up, we don't even have to downshift to grab decent passing acceleration. I am not sure how that works, considering that the low speed to high speed is done with lower gears and should seem faster while using the higher rpms than a 55 mph pass in 5th gear. I do notice a huge difference when using the wife's grand marquis with its 210 hp V8, for standing start acceleration, much like that of an LS8. Plus, when I do that with the Mercury, I close my eyes and imagine that I am the driver of a sheriff's Crown Vic on Fox Tv's COPS show, based on the air cleaner noise. You don't really get that sound with the V6 LS.
The other negative thing about the V6 LS is the lack of the integrated message center. In all, if I had to buy an LS with 30K and an automatic, I would undoubtedly go for the V8. The price difference between the two engines for a same-year automatic would surely be negligible.
On another note: do 16 wheels fit on a sport model LS? The front brake calipers look to be
pretty close to filling up the 17" wheels' space, but I am looking to put snow tires (Winterfires)
on my car and do not like the idea of either purchasing 17" snow tires, OR dismounting my
17" all season tires every 6 months. Please say that they fit, as I already bought the wheels
and tires! I cannot imagine a 3600-lb. car floating through snow or slush on 235mm wide tires and getting a decent bite of traction, whether for accelerating or steering.
Brian
mtnh.....does Firestone make the Winterfires in a 60 series, 16 inch tire ?? I've had them on my S-10 4x4 for three winters, and am satisfied with their performance. They're fairly quiet for a snow tire, but IMHO, they might prove a bit noisy for a car. In fact, I sprayed the inside of the floorpan of my truck with Dnyashield, a sound deadener, to help the situation.
Can you believe it? It actually rained AGAIN last night! Twice in 10 days. We're getting flooded here! :~)
Mike
LLSOC member
(mtnh)The sport wheels and non-sport wheels have the same exact bolt pattern. You can buy a set of stock(brushed five-star alum) 16" for cheap and use them soley for winter tires; and keep the super sports 17" for the other seasons.
Mike
Are you buying the car from a Lincoln/Ford dealer? If so, you should be able to get a service history on the car from the dealer's service department by having them look up the Oasis history on the car. This will tell you whether any recalls apply to this particular car, and whether they've been taken care of. The Oasis service history will also tell you whether the transmission software upgrade has been done. This history is, in effect, a record of everything that has been done to the car (repairs and maintenance) by a Ford or Lincoln dealer.
If you're not buying from a Lincoln dealer, you can still get the service history by taking the car's VIN (vehicle ID) to a Lincoln/Ford dealer and asking them to call it up for you. They'd probably be willing to do this if you plan to have your service done there.
I believe that the warranty in Canada is 48 months and 80,000 kilometers. You might want to find out what the in-service date is so you'll know exactly how many months of warranty you have remaining and whether any paperwork needs to be done to insure that the warranty transfers. Also, I think that standard maintenance was included with all new LSs in Canada; check with a Ford/Lincoln dealer to see if this "free" maintenance deal applies, and if it transfers to you. This could save you money on oil changes, tire rotations, etc. In the U.S., Ford warranties automatically transfer to subsequent buyers, but I don't know if it's the same in Canada.
Hope this helps.
Note to mtnh: Guess you didn't notice that twomor sports a Canadian flag. In Canada, they use kilometers, not miles, so 30,000K(ilometers) is exactly what he meant. K?
Hope this answered you ques. but, if you have any more I'll try my best.
Best regards,
Mike
If performance is your goal one would think that race cars would put the air intake in the best place allowed by the rule book. I know of no race car that uses a low intake. As stanny noted stock cars (& some other production based race cars) use the area between the hood and windshield. Most sports & open wheel race cars have their air intakes up high to get them into clean air and use whatever ram effect that can be obtained. Also since many race cars use minimal (if any) air intake filtering to put them low would be to invite disaster.
Mike(Had a long night!)
Jim
Hope the sky is clear,
Mike
Best regards,
Mike
BTW, the easy way to not get sick of reading endless discussions which do not interest you is to skip right over them.
Basically the relationship between Tourque/Horse Power and air is one of the number of molecules, say moles, introduced over some period of time, say per second, and at what temperature they enter. All this needs to measured around the process, ie combustion in the cylinder.
Now for some high school chem>>>> PV=mRT
where P= pressure Ram air, turbo
V= volume Cyl size
m= mass of gas, moles of air
R is a constant
T = temperature
Why cold air > it's denser
Why higher pressure, ie ram or turbo etc. because you can squish more air into the chamber.
Actually, if you could keep the number of molecules entering the cylendar the same, hotter air would actually produce more power as each molecule would carry more energy. The probelm is that as you heat the air it expands thereby providing fewer molecules of air to the chamber.
As far as race car intakes go, the key parameters for loaction are distance. as close as possible to the engine cylinder intake and as unrestricted as possible. If the engine intake manifold were at the bottom of the engine, I would consider a bottom intake.
The point is that as with all aspects of life, this issue is a trade-off. Just a non-intercooled turbo gets more mass into an engine because the pressure override the heating effect of air. The effect of Ram air COULD easily overcome the temperature effect of being near the street. In general you will find that at low speeds, temperature will dominate and at higher/highway and greater, speeds, RAM effect will dominate.
In a nut shell, One must properly maximise PV=mRT for m in the engine for the conditions at which you are operating.
Sorry don't know too much about non-linear aerodynamics, but I do know that they will significantly affect the RAM pressure developed.
Just thought this might help you decide how to modify your intakes.
Please ignore my poor typing and spelling, I refuse to use this horrible spell checker.
Have fun folks
Tom
Charter Member LLSOC
1. If you go this route you will need to recalibrate the sensor as the engine will go to lean-run condition.
2. The stock system is restrictive. Replacing the entire thing with a cold-air ram intake, open cone filter, heat baffle, 3 inch pipe and 75mm mass air flow sensor will net you more power. How much hasn't been determined yet, but it is definitely felt. The ram intake works in this case because it's open and while you're moving the cold air comes in but there isn't any vacuum to suck up water like you would have with a closed box system.
3. If you haven't done the exhaust system modifications yet, you're wasting your time with the air modifications. Do the exhaust first otherwise you won't see the increase you'd expect.
4. There is no room on the passenger side to utilize the windshield bleed air for the system since it would need to go through a filter first.
Any info appreciated.
Also, given the fact that I live in the very dry, dusty Sonoran Desert environment of Arizona, I am particularly sensitive to the air filtration capabilities of competing engine air filters. I typically change air filters at the same interval as oil filters due to my local conditions (typically 2-3 months or 3K miles). I have heard K&N advocates use the argument that off-road race teams use K&N filters, but my response to this argument is, what is their objective? Achieve maximum performance over the duration of a race. But, I haven't heard of an off-road race yet that covers 100K+ miles. Off-road race teams have different priorities and objectives than me when it comes to striking a balance between performance and engine longevity. Until someone can show me conclusive and definitive data in support of K&Ns filtration capability, I will remain a (hopeful) skeptic.
Respectfully,
Chris - LLSOC Charter Member
attendee of LS Mania I & II