-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options
Comments
Isn't the differential, plus its lubricant, integral with the automatic transaxle (transmission for us non-Toyota speakers)?
Pete
On my last truck, a 4Runner, that piece was all metal and it would get surface rust on it making the door squeek until you greased it. Guess the plastic coating is supposed to prevent that surface rust problem and keep the door quiet.
Jeff
Every time I think about it breaking, I get pissed off. I'm going to take it in next week, and see if it's covered. Although even if they fix it I'm still going to have a slightly misaligned door. While I'm there I'll have them install the 3 interior screws which are missing, and causing rattles.
I own a '98 Sienna XLE with 52,000 miles - I'm the original owner (4 years 2 months). I was a frequent user of the town hall Sienna boards back in '98 but haven't posted anything in a while.
My van has been mostly trouble free. It is still smooth and quiet. With proper rotation, the tires have worn evenly and still have tread left.
Under warranty, I've had the radio replaced (loose buttons) and a sliding door handle replaced.
I've changed the oil myself every 3-5k miles and it still looks rather good when draining out - compared to other vehicles I've owned. I've noticed the item under the oil filler cap. I've always thought it was a filter of some sort. It's been there since it was new.
This last month, the van started making a ticking sound under light acceleration. It is not related to engine speed, only vehicle speed. It is coming from the front end - somewhere in the drivetrain. I took it in to Toyota and they said they found the left front wheel bearing bad. They replaced it but the noise continues. I took it back again but they cannot pin-point the noise. The powertrain warranty expires shortly and I don't want to be stuck paying for transmission/differential or cv-joint work.
By the way - from an earlier question - when I had the transmission fluid replaced at 30k miles, the dealer said the differential fluid was separate and they didn't recommend replacing it until later. Don't know if he knows what he's talking about though. My manual says to "replace automatic transmission and differential oil...every 15k miles if operated under special operating conditions". I don't fall under these conditions. For normal usage/conditions, it does not list a replacement frequency.
Any others had this situation;
Recommended replacement tire opinions??
Thanks
Thank you
There is an Edmunds Forum titled "Engine Sludge? (Discussion Re-Opened)" in the Maintenance and Repair section of Edmunds. If you post there, you should be able to get all kinds of advice.
Engine Sludge? (Discussion Re-Opened)
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
sears sell tires made by michelin for sears and they have a lifetime warranty! very good deal.
I have a "check engine" light in my '99 Sienna, and when we took it in, the diagnostic showed a code that means the oxygen sensor in the exhaust system is bad. Dealer said there was a recall or perhaps a factory-extended warranty in California for this sensor because it is only installed in Siennas with CA emissions. Even though we purchased ours in VA (at Cliffy's dealership), we have the CA emissions option.
Hears the catch - Toyota will only cover the repair if you are a CA resident. I live in Nebraska, so I'm SOL and face $370 PLUS labor to fix this stupid thing.
The car doesn't need the sensor (I've learned it's one of four in the exhaust system), but if we don't replace it, it will continue to cause the MIL (engine) light to come on again and again. We're almost at 60,000 miles and the end of the warranty. Therefore, every time the light comes on we have to go to the dealer and get a diagnostic check to make sure any of a hundred other possible malfunctions is causing the indicator light. This will cost us!
I don't think it's fair to put CA emissions on cars not sold in CA, then refuse to cover the repair because I don't live there. And I can't swallow the thought of shelling out over $400 for a part I never needed in the first place. So I called corporate, and got nowhere. I got an address and name of the customer service supervisor, and I intend to ask Toyota to reimburse me the cost of the dealer repair. I can't see not doing it, or else I'll have this MIL light on for the rest of the life of the car.
I need help. What should I do? Thanks!
Dave
i believe there are 3 sensors. one on bank 1 and one on bank 2 and one just after your cat. all 3 are within easy reach and fairly easy to replace. if you can find out which one is faulty, you can buy the part and replace it yourself. you can also probably find aftermarket sensors which would cost half the price of an OEM sensor.
if your car is still under warranty, any dealer should honor the warranty regardless where you bought the vehicle. they are supposed to replace it under warranty and bill toyota for it.
many cars here in canada have CA emission standards.
goodluck
I did that with a Chevy problem years ago and it worked. I would also drive into their service area at least once a week and complain so the other customers could hear. Man, were they glad to get rid of me!
Any idea if this could be a torque converter problem? Anyone w/ a similar condition? (PS-drained and filled xmission w/ 5 qts; ATF level is "full;" rotated tires w/ correct lug torque and condition persists.
http://www.usdoj.gov/opa/pr/1999/July/298enr.htm
They settled a suit this month over smog equipment in California and are paying a hefty fine and possibly extending warranties but since its it California it wouldn't help you anyway.
Also if any of you long time users of this forum have any suggestions on how to find a topic without scrolling through 1700 messages I would like to know how you do it.
Thank you in advance
Thanks,
Thanks
when it comes on, you have to check the pressure of each wheel and see which one is low. once you find the low pressure tire, correct it and reset the light. IMPORTANT: to reset, turn ignition to "ON" press and hold down the reset button until the light on the dash flashes 3 times - then let go. pressing the button once will not make reset the light
we normally assume that we just press a reset button once and it would reset. not the case for the sienna tire pressure reset button! if you press it once, it will go NOT away and then keeps coming back!
its a handy feature and have saved me a number of times already, i like it a lot.
I will make some fuss about it to corporate, but I doubt anything will come of it. I like the idea of complaining loudly in front of other customers.
John339:
Quoted (snipped): And in June 1998, the government settled with American Honda Motor Co. and Ford Motor Company for installing illegal emission control devices in certain vehicles. The Honda case, like the case filed today, also involved on-board diagnostic systems that the government alleged did not comply with Clean Air Act.
I believe Toyota's contention at the time was that the devices were initially approved by the government agencies involved in the initial testing then the testing changed.
Do you own a Toyota, John? Just curious
per the DOJ link below - "However, Toyota is the first such manufacturer that has refused to settle with the United States."
Whether Toyota's actions in this situation or Toyota's approach to the whole engine sludge problem is indicative of how that company approaches other problems, and what is best for the customer, I'll leave that to the individual. At the least it is an interesting observation I thought.
http://www.usdoj.gov/opa/pr/1999/July/298enr.htm
The reason for my question is we like to hear first hand information on problems generated from "actual" drivers and first hand experience and I have never read anything from you indicating otherwise.
Besides, it is not a prerequisite to own a sludged Toyota (or any Toyota) to post on the engine sludge or any Toyota message board. John339 has been able to provide some very interesting and beneficial information regarding engine sludge and a number of other topics from his internet research. I appreciate the info he provides. By the way, I own an '00 Sienna that sludged at 17,000 miles.
I have nothing personally against John (except maybe the time he has to research all this - jealousy..) but it's immaterial if Toyota decided to fight a non related suit from several years ago. I say stay with the present issue and don't drag something else into the discussion.
All I'm seeing is speculation from people who are quoting other people who are also speculating.
Like everyone else, I would like to see a conclusion of this issue even tho I haven't had any problems with my Toyota or the dealer. Whether I do or not in the future is, of course, speculation - )
I wish there is a "counter" feature that keeps track of people saying the same thing over and over again. When somebody writes "I got sludge at 17000 miles" on 50 different occasions, it would be nice for the casual reader to know somehow that it's the same person saying the same thing, rather than 50 different people saying the same thing. That you have sludge is no in dispute. How you got it and how your maintenance was done is unknown. There's so much written about sludge in this forum, but how many participating in this forum actually have it? My impression is there's no more than 2 or 3 people. You (jj35) are one. Who are the others? Am I wrong on the low count?
I understand that Sienna just got rated #1 in terms of reliability among minivans by Consumer Reports. Isn't it ironic that people who were scared away from getting Sienna by unsubstantiated Internet discussions on sludge ended up getting vans of lesser reliability? I think people who hype up their own problems out of portion are doing the general public a real disservice.
San Jose, CA
What JJ was rightfully pointing out is that Bob already knows my interest, yet posted that he did not. Why he would do that I do not know.
Since you have evidently not read my posts, I will gladly explain where my interest lies. My grandparents have one of the affected Camrys and they do not know much about cars. I have more knowledge of cars and have access to the Internet, which they do not. They did not purchase a Camry to worry about such things.
As for the number of people on here who have sludged engines, I have counted more than 20 in the short time I have been here. Also, Pat Goss from MotorWeek said he has more than 20 Toyota clients witht he sludge problem. Thats alot.
Personally I am glad that JJ and others have hung around as long as they have to discuss the issue with people relatively new to it like me. Frankly I am surprised that people would attack someone for describing a situation they had with their vehicle. I mean the title of this page is 'Toyota Sienna Problems' afterall and different people come to these pages every day
I have never been one to think that too much information is a bad thing.
Here are the Pat Goss quotes: http://www.wusatv9.com/consumer/consumer_article.asp?storyid=4725
How did I fix all those problems? I traded it in. I have to laugh when I think I bought the car for the Toyota reputation for making near perfect vehicles. I simply didn't have the time nor disposition to drive a "perfect" Toyota.
LOL
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
bobistheoilguy "Engine Sludge? (Discussion Re-Opened)" Mar 30, 2002 6:24am
photo link:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/sludgedmeashgear.jpg
Jeprox, my new transportation is a Tahoe. Believe it or not, I'm getting 15mpg using regular fuel in the Tahoe. I got 17+ in the Sienna using premium, per the book. I'm talking straight city driving. Never came close to the 19 promised by the Toyota. If you do the math, the Tahoe is slightly cheaper to drive. The Tahoe has been, so far, quiet, smooth, and everything a $30k+ vehicle should be. The Sienna is a perfectly fine low to mid $20k car. It's outta it's league trying to be a mid $30k car (which mine was with every geehaw Toyota could dream up).
I paid $29k for the 01 XLE ($34k MSRP). I paid $28k for the 02 Tahoe ($34.5kMSRP) after the $2002 rebate. The Tahoe is a luxo car and the the Sienna was a $22k minivan trying to be a luxo car. All this is just IMHO.
Anyways, the Tahoe is very nice also. Hope you got decent $ for your Sienna.
goodluck.
The short version - '99 XLE with 57,800 miles gets an engine light for the air/fuel sensor (a CA emissions part). Next, valve cover gaskets need to be replaced (warranty). Before appointment, van starts to run very rough. Sensor may be causing engine to run lean (rough). Part is $370. A markup of more than $120! Tried to find wholesale part in a day - need the van for a trip - no luck, have to order through expensive dealer.
Next, computer codes say two spark plugs went bad ($12 appiece). Finally, on Friday (day of our trip), sensor comes in and gets installed. Dealer test drives and feels a cylinder missing. A fuel injector is shot (it's a CA Emissions part). $170 part and it's not in stock. We cram family into tiny VW Jetta and go on trip.
I'm going to pay almost $1000 for a bunch of problems that could have been masked by the CA sensor in the first place. I don't even know if the one cylinder was damaged by running w/o fuel, or if a number of the remaining five injectors could go bad at any time.
We've really loved the van, and this is the only maintenance problem to date, but I'm torqued off about these CA emissions parts going bad, and I never even asked or needed CA emissions!
Our 01 Sienna has no serious problems. Had a soft dashboard rattle but it disappeared on its own - although there is a TSB on it.
Gripes - Wish turning radius was closer to the competition. It's a shorter van than Honda and Grand Caravan yet it takes more space to turn in a parking lot (based on Consumer Reports stats). Also, the paint seems to scratch easily.
On balance, we like the van. Don't regret the purchase one bit. Got a nice deal - $300 over invoice in Jan 2001 at Koons Arlingon, VA. Really like the comfort and quiet.
IN FACT we bought it to place the mother-in-law out of our hair in rear seats (Volvo 850 back seat was to close for comfort). No such luck - getting our attention cruising down the freeway in the Sienna is a breeze for her!!!
OBTW I'm using $19.95 oil changes at Koons Arlington, VA every 3000/3 mos. Cheap insurance wouldn't you say?
"Could anyone tell me if the sienna is supposed to have a plastic under engine cover that requires removal to change the oil?"
basically, to change the oil:
drain oil, remove filter, fill-up with new oil and install new filter, check oil level and that's it. there's no cover or any plastic parts that you need to remove to change your oil.
about your headlight, you may want to check if your bulb is properly installed. if it's crooked, adjusting your aim won't help you one bit!
San Jose, CA
Good luck with the Tahoe, but withhold final judgement until you drive it a few years. Remember how much you raved about the Sienna on the "Toyota Sienna" board when you first got it?
San Jose, CA
i'm also sure that it was done properly and it's not a sloppy job. i've had one too many bad experience with car dealers and other shops.
I always shop around before having non-warranty work done. Dealer service vs. independent garage. As a rule, the indys are much cheaper for parts but a little higher for labor. probably because their better mechanics.