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Did anyone actually come up with; if the subject lip had a hard coating of (whatever) did that indicate a sludge build-up in the engine?
my van is 1999 model and have the same gritty material u are referring to and with over 55,000kms now - it's running perfectly!
steering pull can solved with alignment or different tires. noisy brakes can solved by turning the drums or blowing out the dust. window washer leak can be fixed by changing a valve.
my opinion is don't jump to conclusion about your van having the sludge problem. the gritty material you have is certainly NOT proof that your engine have sludge. only way to be sure 100% is to remove the valve covers.
goodluck.
Worthwhile reading for all Toyota consumers.
http://pressroom.toyota.com/photo_library/display_release.html?id=20020403
It sounds like good news.
That "might" silence a few.
Both fine vans.
Have Fun!
"steering pull can solved with alignment or different tires. noisy brakes can solved by turning the drums or blowing out the dust. window washer leak can be fixed by changing a valve."
My 2001 doesn't have the same problems other than an occasional squeaky brake, but that doesn't seem to be a problem with stopping or wear on the pads.
As far as sludge, good luck and keep us posted. It would be a good idea to read the new Toyota Press Release if you haven't already. http://pressroom.toyota.com/photo_library/display_release.html?id=20020403
I think Toyota corporate has decided to do the right thing. It's a shame that your local dealerships haven't followed their lead. Maybe the tide will change.
"3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum."
http://money.msn.com/articles/smartbuy/car/9249.asp?special=msn
You're pinning me down..get both
I purchased the Sienna because of the size, quietness, reputation (before all this sludge stuff came up..) and plus, got a good deal. Two friends who own Sienna's also recommended it. Dealership (at least mine) bends over backwards for you. I wasn't too enthused with the domestic brands. They were uncomfortable but their prices weren't too bad. I was also concerned about their overall reliability.
The Sienna is my wife's "baby". It's an excellent road/travel van, good gas mileage and has had one problem - the seat belt sensor went to another time zone and the dealer replaced it in 45 minutes at 9:30 at night (then falling on the sword and sending me a letter of apology - jeez people..). Interior is very comfortable and well appointed in my opinion.
(Now the people on the MPV posts will make me turn in my keys again....)
Now the weird part - Right after we purchased the Sienna (ok, guys, don't cringe - this was posted waaay back) my wife won the MPV on a radio/mall contest. I personally never looked at the MPV before. Now that I have that one it's MY baby. It's a little smaller than the Sienna in general size in & out but with the hide-away rear seat (you have to take the Sienna seat out - and it's heavy) makes it haul a bunch. It's nimble, easier to manuver in traffic, park, etc. It has some little goodies the Sienna doesn't. It also has been totally trouble free and gets good gas mileage. As far as power, the '02 MPV has a bigger engine now than my '01 so that doesn't enter into the equation any more. Each van has it's own unique qualities and I would get a headache (and drink three martinis) if I had to choose one over the other.
I can't tell you which one to purchase. I love them both. If I had a dog automobile I would be yelling like some others but that's not the case here. Both vans have something that will fit your taste. All I can tell is drive both and see which one fits your butt better
Now, Innovations: I only levitate on Saturday nights after those martinis... Actually, I'm in the group developing infrared lasers for chemical sensing, thin film optical sensors (bionic eye) for certain types of sight restoration, ulta-high efficiency solar cells (satellites and space platforms) and mopping floors. I'm real good at that last one...
A new board has been started under "Maintenance and Repair" titled "Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling--Toyota's Customer Response"
Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling--Toyota's Customer Response
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
One good point about Chrysler is that codes could be read just by turning the key on and off three times and then count blinks on a dashboard light. Any similar method for the Toyota?
THANKS<
Mr. Engineer: We’ve been running tests non-stop and our data does not indicate any design problem. Those clowns who get sludge in their engines should pay their own way to get them fixed. The stupid media can go to h*** as far as I’m concerned.
Marketing Guy: You may be correct technically, Mr. Engineer, but we are loosing this war. This has been a public relations disaster. People coming into the showrooms are asking if eating greasy food will cause sludge. I heard Hollywood is planning on making a movie about this. Words are Julia Roberts will play Charlene Blake, John Travolta her lawyer, and Allen Richman (the bad guy leader, Hans, in Die Hard) the Big Boss.
Big Boss: Nooooo!!! Not Hans!!! I have children! Marketing Guy, get Hans off my back. NOW!
Mr. Engineer (muttering to himself): I hate customers. Why can’t I just make cars.
Marketing Guy (shaking his head and muttering to himself): These d*** engineers just don’t get it.
Big Boss (thinking): Harrison Ford is more like me
*****
Jokes aside, the new policy is totally awsome!
San Jose, CA
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2002/04/04/toyota-sludge.htm
In this article, Toyota says that lack of oil changes is the problem, but they are going to change the design anyway to prevent further problems - wonder what they are going to change if it isn't a design problem????
San Jose, CA
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Not sure that Toyota is changing the valve; rather the crankcase circulation. Probably, they'll be circulating more fresh air/increasing airflow volume...
my brakes are now like quite powerful - just like when they're brand new!
i change my pcv valve annually. it cost me around C$10 or so for the valve.
i posted the location and how to do it before, but i cant remember what post number. i posted it about 3 weeks ago - i think.
the location of the valve is tight but replacing the valve is easy.
sorry i dont know how much labor would the dealer charge you. if i guess, i would say maybe $30 labor - just a guess.
be drained and refilled? I read the Maint. log and
call three different dealers which gave me three
different answers-not sure and confused. The dealer
wants about $100.00 for drain and refill,not flush.
I bought 2000 XLE in Feb. and now have 17400 miles on the odo. The 5 miles one way is the mix of
40 and 50 miles zone in Florida.
You seem very skillful on many early post,I wonder if you can give some tips,amount of oil especially the differential, and do it myself to save some money.
Thanks in advance.
with my sienna, it gets done every 24,000kms. which is roughly 15,000 miles. i follow the owners manual which indicates every 24,000kms. from what i was told, it's a good idea to do a flush n' fill every 48,000kms. which is roughly 30,000 miles. i would say that you follow what your owner's manual indicate. the next time i change a tranny, i will have a flush n' fill performed (around 72,000kms.).
it's not hard to do it yourself, much like changing oil and filter. you drain it and fill up again. just make sure you give it time after you fill up to get an accurate measurement on your tranny dipstick. to do a flush n' fill, only the dealer can do it unless u have the fluid flusher which is an expensive equipment.
dealers around my area charges approx. C$70 for tranny fluid change and approx. C$130 for flush n' fill.
goodluck.
does anyone know if i will fail the emissions test IF i remove one of my mufflers? i'm thinking to changing the mufflers to free-flow units and i'm also thinking of only having one muffler instead of two.
i dont think i will fail the test with just one muffler but i just wanted to be sure.
thanks
My questions are: Has anyone had this piece replaced and if so did it fix the problem? Also, is there a less expensive way to get rid of this noise?
I bought this car about 4 months ago and am generally pleased except for this annoying problem. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
I know there are TSBs for the door problem including (BO003-99)which calls for replacement of the junction boxes. But there's no need to do that.
When I took ours into the dealer, the low-tech solution was black electrical tape around the black plastic ovals in the door frame where the door connects - I think the lower one is the sliding junction converter or where the sliding junction converter connects.
But another way is to apply a lubricant to the effected areas. I have instructions that Toyota had sent to some dealers on this and will E-Mail to you if you'd like - for some reason I can't paste them into this post.
Anyways tape seemed to fix the problem quite well as this is basically a 'fit' (or lack of) problem. FYI our creaking would vary according to outside temp.
Lastly, sounds like your dealer is more interested in profit than helping you - no surprise but I'd confirm any repair advice from them going forward.
Now, my questions. If I understand your solution, I should place electrical tape around the lower plastic form extending from the door frame. This form is much larger than the one higher in the door frame and contains what appears to be the heads of 2 metal tacks. It also has a little sponge-like material around the perimeter of the form. I guess I should place the tape around the perimeter. Do you know what the purpose of this "sliding converter" is?
I am curious about what purpose a lubricant will play if the problem is that the converter does not fit properly. It seems that the tape would have a much greater chance of fixing the problem than the lubricant given that the tape would fill unwanted gaps and the lubricant would exagerate the effects of the gaps.
Once again, thanks for helping me out.
not that bad for now but my concern is the future.
Also, It could be the oil drops from the rear block, the corner part of the tranny pan , driver side, after the drain bolt viewing from the front facing to the back of the vehicle,there's some oil deposited on.
I wipe it clean,for now and wait to see at the next oil change what happen.
I'm wondering if anyone has encountered this problem.
thanks a bunch for any comment.
As for your questions - the electrical tape isn't really my solution -it's my dealers! Sounds like you have the location/placement accurate but I'll have to doublecheck my wife's van and verify.
I don't know the exact purpose of the converter but I'd assume it's used for things like locking (from the drivers side) as well as instructions for power door open/close. If anyone knows more I'd be interested in learnig this.
As for why a lubricant - not sure - I found these items after our van was fixed and was surprised a bit to see the alternative method - thought I'd just share all that I knew.