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Comments
When we make a hard left turn the passenger door opens ever so slightly even when locked to make the stupid car computer think that the door is not fully shut or is being opened and in that brief instant, WALA! opens the locks. I can also do this by leaning into the door and sure enough it happens. Interestingly, we took iin for service and they even test-drove it and didn't discover it! I discovered it on the ride home after they thought we were mad! So at least we figured out the problem. Somehow, the door is not aligned perfectly with the locks/pins etc... My bro-in-law said it's a relatively easy fix.
Phew....
Thanks
I only noticed this because of an annoying thumping noise we notice from the driver side sliding door and tried to see what is causing it.
Thanks
I'd be interested in hearing how anyone fixed this problem. I sure hope it's not the compressor because the dealer said it will cost around $1500 to replace!
Thanks
Also, is it normal that when we first drive off , cold, with our 2002 Sienna LE, the transmission has to first rev up to 3000 RPM before it will shift down ? once it shifts, its a smooth ride. we have 36, 400 miles.
Does anyone have any ideas? Could the seat belt sensor be faulty. If so, how much does it cost to replace? Are there any safety concerns?
Thanks,
Seb
I took the van to an A/C specialist and they determined that it was just the compressor clutch that was bad. It was $300 to shim the clutch to get more life out of it or $600 to replace the clutch. I went with the replacement.
The blinking light is telling you that the system thinks the compressor is not spinning at the speed that it thinks it should be spinning at (based on a RPM reading from the tach.) This is a fail-safe because if the compressor did lock up, the belt would break and therefore leave you stranded on the road. The A/C specialist was knowledgeable on the Toyota system and I am glad that I got a second opinion. While I am pro-dealer for the servicing of my Toyota and they would have fixed the van for $1425, I am glad that I didn't spend the extra $800+ that the dealer was suggesting I spend.
I don't really care about the light working or not-issue I am concerned about is if the light malfunctioning would somehow effect the airbags from deploying in the event of an accident.
Many thanks for any help you can provide. A long trip without 12v power could be a very long trip with the teens!
Akroeger@cwnet.com
I am new to this forum and looking for help on how to connect the wiring harness for my Jayco popup camper. I have a 2002 Sienna Symphony. I installed the hitch already and now I am trying to find the plug on the Sienna for brake lites.
My Jayco is 1998. I has both 6 pins male and female connectors. The male side connects to the Jayco. And the female is for the van. Does anyone know where I can tap/plug the female to? According to most people, they said the van should have a wiring harness already. I just have to plug it in. I have not been able to find it. I opened and looked both rear left and right lites, and the rear passenger side compartment. No luck.
I found a set of wiring run along back to both rear lites. Does anyone know where I can find the conduit? Or I have to cut the wire and tap the harness? Do you know where I can get the schematic for Sienna?
The dealerships gave me a run around for quite sometime.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Wow, that's as much as many charge for an engine.
How many miles were on the van? What type of maintenance interval did you follow up to the failure? What type of failure did the transmission suffer?
Has anyone had this problem and found a solution?
Thank you!
Warren_PA
to recharge from L side. I could not find out where should I connect
my kit.
Can you please help me.
Had to remove the panel behind the car's jack to gain access to the wires, and used crimp type splicers to add the connector for the wiring harness. The harness plugs into the connector. My car did not have a connection for the harness prewired. Was time consuming to remove panels etc., but not difficult.
I placed the connection in the jacks compartment rather than behind the panel for ease of diagnosing any problems that may arise.
My minivan is also having problems with batteries not staying charged. Battery died shortly after the 36,000 mile warranty coverage and ate up the alternator...had to replace the alternator at 37,000+ miles. Since then, I've had to either replace or recharge the battery 4 times. Each time, the battery lasts less and less time. (first it was 13 months, then 8 months, then ONE month and the latest was TWO WEEKS) Diagnostic tests aren't showing anything and everyone (dealer service dept AND local mechanic) are saying 'it's just the battery'. This is extremely frustrating, not knowing whether or not the vehicle will once again need to be jumped. I know this is not good for the alternator but I'm at a loss as to what else to do. The latest mechanic said that "MAYBE" the dome lights are staying on a bit too long when you close the doors. But, IMO, this can't possibly drain a brand new battery in 2 wks to a month.
Anyone else having battery issues??
Same same here only after full warm-up??? Our's is like a clatter/clunck sounds. I think it may be the valves but all I read so far is that the valves never need adjustment. The other thing it may be carbon build up. We really baby the car and it has 65,000 mile on it. Your car has only 11,000? My is due for the tune up so I will try to post back later. Hopefully it needs a good old tune.
But if I turn the key on and rest my foot against the gas, it will run fine, no unusual sounds or anything, just when I let go of the gas, it dies. It does not idle at all, not even close. It does not sound like a stall, it just shuts off.
Does anyone know what's happening before I have it towed to the mechanic?
Most of the time the engine will run between 400-500 rpm (want to die range) and suddenly it will go back to normal. I am thinking it's something related to the injector or fuel system. I tried to use premium gas for a while and problem goes away (for a short time) but it's coming back. I don't know what's going on either.
Hope someone can help us on this problem.
Thanks
Abe
We put on Goodyear Assuance Triple Treads 4000 miles ago, these tire are awesome. We drove with confidence through downpours. They are quiet and grip the road through any conditions.
We have three teenagers and all their attitudes and we all had a great time.
Can't say enough good things about the van.
Thanks Toyota!!
I have a really annoying problem...
My Sienna 2000 headlight sometime work and sometimes not. The problem appears on both sides (left and right) at the same time. The low "running lights" are working fine, but the low beam lights sometimes turns off during driving and sometimes they never turn on. The high beam lights NEVER work. It seems like when the car is "cold" the low beam lights will turn on, and after driving for a while, they will switch off and stay off for the rest of the drive, which force me to drive with the low "running lights" which are very poor in their intensity and not very safe at night.
All other lights (indicators, tail, break, reverse etc.) are working fine.
I have checked the fuse/relay box and couldn't see any problem. I replaced the headlights fuses (15A each) and problem remains.
Help!
Thanks,
now if you found a relay and it was well seated but the problem remained, i'd look to see if a few functions in your vehicle might use the same (identical part number) type of relay, and i'd swap the relays to see if it was the relay itself. if the swap test worked, i'd know what relay to replace and i'd see if the local car parts store had a replacement.
if there wasn't another to perform the swap test, then i'd probably go ahead and proceed to a car parts store to- purchase a replacement and check the operation of the high/low beams.
if none of this worked, then i'd report my work to a dealer tech, as probably it's a switch (is it on the stalk? - or does your DRLs have another switch on the dash?) that might need replacement.
thanks