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Thanks/Vashtie
have mechanic to check the airfilter connection to the engine, the valve that opens up usually has carbon build up. just needs cleaning and a new air filter and you will be good.I know it has been awhile since this posted, but I'm finally frustrated enough with years of banging my head on the hatch to do something about it. I was just wondering, Greg, if you found a fix for this?
There was a spark. I quickly removed the cables. We jumped the car and I got it going, but the MID is nonfunctional. The radio is nonfunctional. The satellite radio add-on unit is non-functional, and the AC is stuck in FULL BLAST mode, and seems to operate on its own internal scheme.
I cannot seem to find any blown fuses. I have checked the 100A main and the 50 amp fuse, and both are fine.
The fuses on the inside ohm OK with a multimeter, and there is 12 VDC present on the right hand side of each key fuse socket on the inside fuse panel.
Again, car starts and runs OK, but "feels" different, like it is stuck in Sport Mode.
I am running out of ideas. Looking at the functional wiring diagram in the owners manual, it shows that the 100A fuse feeds the 50A fuse, and this splits into 2 pathways, one of which goes to the ignition switch, and the other goes to the 20A Acc Socket fuse and in parallel to the 15A Audio fuse. This branch appears to feed the MID (dash) display controller, the radio and the security module at the top of the dash.
My worst fears are that ALL of this equipment is now toasted garbage.
But, there are diodes in both the outside and inside fuse panels, that may be bad? Does anyone have any ideas?
My fear is that my greatest moment of stupidity may now subject me to all kinds of price gouging at the local Isuzu dealer, a place I have avoided since my last experience there in 2004.
PLEASE HELP IF YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS... I am in a jam. No jokes, please, I am heartbroken enough already.
All is well again. Sort of.
Whew! I like good endings.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
It is not 4 Wheel Drive, I prefer that for Califonia Hwys
Milage was 70,000
I have since put 10,000 miles on the car.
What I notice is that when the car is cold in the morning, it revs past
1300 RPM and then eventually after 2 min, settles below 750 RPM after it warms up. The noise is a lot otherwise really no issues.
The Door Rubber Gaskets are terrible. Superglue, Gorrila Glue, dont know what to use. I have changed the oil myself, the car is high up, its easy. I notice oil gets dirty at about 3900 Miles to 4,500 miles. I was using synthetic but have switched to regular 10-30 oil now. Direct Injection means high compression, so not sure how dirty the chamber gets because of this.
I drive freeway speeds about 70% of time and have managed to get 20.7 Miles to the gallon. ( I have removed the HEAVY spare tire in the back to lighten the LOAD.)
I anticipate having Amco service the transmission soon and will have someone do the timing belt in next 10,000 miles.
For the money its a fine car, no major issues.
You may want to get an oil analysis sometime and see what the lab says about your oil and engine. They cost around $20.
Some info online indicates that the problem is related to lubrication of the drive shaft, but I am not sure that this is true.
I do know that I had my Axiom serviced at a quality shop, where they changed the differential fluid and installed synthetic transmission fluid (this around 70K miles) and the problem almost never happens now. So, I do suspect it is a common Axiom problem and that what I had done helped, so it is likely the tranny fluid if anything.
Keep in mind that the tranny fluid is almost unservicable from a user's perspective. There is no dipstick; there is a tiny porthole on the side of the tranny to fill it by, but no real way to look at it without having the car on the rack, so it's best to take it to a shop to get this service done.
:mad:
Next I replaced the oil in the rear axle, but it didn't help. This is weird because the car doesn't make noise any other time; the car makes noise only last few feet before stopping (when braking), but there's no noise if I stop in neutral (and pressing brake).
Chart 14: Possible Causes Of Transmission Noise
CAUTION: Before checking transmission for what
is believed to be transmission noise, ensure
presence and positioning of insulating plugs, pads
etc. Also make sure that noise does not come from
other drivetrain components.
Condition // Possible cause // Correction
Whine or Buzz // Oil level low // Fill with ATF, check for external
leaks.
Whine or Buzz //Plugged or restricted oil filter // Inspect oil filter. // Replace oil filter or ATF as necessary.
Whine or Buzz //Damaged oil filter gasket // Replace oil filter gasket.
Knocking noise from front of transmission //Loose bolts (Converter to flex plate) // Tighten to specifications.
transmission.
Knocking noise from front of transmission // Cracked or broken flex plate // Replace flex plate.
Knocking noise from front of transmission// Converter damaged // Replace converter.
Knocking noise while driving, mostly on acceleration.//
Transmission mount loose or broken // Tighten mount bolts or replace
transmission mount.
Knocking noise while driving, mostly on acceleration. //Cooler line mounts loose or broken //Tighten or replace cooler line mounts.
Knocking noise while driving, mostly on acceleration.// Cooler lines touching body or frame // Repair or replace as necessary.
Knocking noise when vehicle is stationary //Loose flex plate mounting bolts //Tighten to specifications.
Knocking noise when vehicle is stationary // Cracked or broken flex plate //Replace flex plate.
Knocking noise when vehicle is stationary //Damaged converter //Replace converter
**************************
Other tranny problems can be caused by high line pressure, low line pressure, dirty tranny filter, or a defective trans. component, some of which can be repaired or replaced without having to replace the entire transmission.
You did not mention if the Check Trans Light comes on, which is important. I assume not, or you would have mentioned it, and it would have logged a trouble code. But, the problem may still be covered by the powertrain warranty, if you are the original owner.
They have good stats on HP & Torque but some "experts" at certain consumer sites completely missed out on what a LEMON this brand is. You have to be BRAIN DEAD to buy anything made by ISUZU. Sorry but this is coming from am OWNER and RESEARCHER who knows that ISUZU is company that is better off dead.
Personally, I truly appreciate my 2002 Trooper I bought new and it's been bulletproof so far. Unless you bought your Axiom new and maintained it well you should probably call up the previous owners and spill your hate, man.
Thanks
Von
I have been reading postings about people having problems where the rear traction control bar rusts and falls off, (and the frame is rusted beyond repair), and the vehicle spins out of control when that happens. This happens at as little as 43K miles.
While this has not happened to my 02 Axiom yet, I am concerned that this is an extremely important safety issue.There is a DEFINITE pattern of this problem happening to Axiom owners.
I went to the NHTSA.GOV website today and searched on 2002 Axioms and found literally 10 complaints about this problem (one was miscategorized as a Traction Control System problem, the others are labeled Structural Frame problems). In the complaints, consumers noted that Isuzu was doing nothing about this problem.
With that in mind, I called the NHTSA toll free number (888) 327-4236 and asked them about it. I could NOT get a straight answer on what it takes to get NHTSA to take action and have Isuzu look into this clear and present danger to Axiom owners. When the CSR could not answer my concerns, she forwarded me to a supervisor named Mr. Lewis, who also had a difficult time telling me what triggers an investigation.
He did seem to recognize the clear life safety hazard that is presented when a traction control bar rusts and falls off and your vehicle locks up or spins around in a circle in the middle of the road. And, I pointed out the 10 complaints on the 2002 Axiom alone, not counting the 2001, 2003 and 2004 model complaints...
He did admit that their system is quantity based. I literally begged him to escalate this issue for review by their safety engineers. I told him it was unfair that all the attention is focused on Toyota, when there are other more important hazards present on other models, including this one, that are not being addressed.
He asked me to post something on the forum to have Isuzu owners call or come to their website: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/index.cfm to file complaints.
Apparently, there is strength in numbers, folks. So, if you have had this problem, or if you are CONCERNED about your life if your traction control bar breaks at random, you should file a complaint.
THAT WOULD INCLUDE EVERY SINGLE AXIOM OWNER, UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH.
What I am suggesting is that you file a complaint demanding that Isuzu issue a recall to inspect for rusting frames and traction control bars, so that you and your family do not get injured or killed when the rear traction control bar breaks.
Again, there is a DEFINITE pattern here, and having pointed that out to two officials at NHTSA, I am really disappointed in their lackluster response. But together we can all make this happen, by raising the level of complaints on this issue.
I also recommend that we file complaints on the brake issues, since I have personally spent hundreds trying to get my brakes to work properly. This is also a life safety issue. If you want to file 3 complaints at a whack, then the transmission and ISC suspension would be the third rung issues that NHTSA needs to hear about.
Thank you for your help. It may save a life, even your own.
I posted a complaint just now about the frame/traction control bar rust failure issue, and I am posting an excerpt of my complaint that you can use for your own complaint, to make it easier for you to file an online complaint.
You can do this at the NHTSA website here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/index.cfm
PLEASE DO CHANGE the wording (use your year, mileage, facts, your opinion), so that each complaint is unique and not boilerplate.
************************************************
I am the original owner of a 20xx Isuzu Axiom with XXX,XXX miles on it . I am reading numerous complaints from other Axiom owners about how the Axiom frame can rust, along with the rear traction control bar, and the rear traction control bar can break loose, causing the vehicle to lock up and spin around in a circle. THIS IS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS LIFE SAFETY HAZARD.
Worst of all, the typical consumer will not know how to detect this problem until it is too late. I noticed that there were already 10 complaints filed by people who have experienced this problem. It appears that Isuzu is doing NOTHING about this DANGEROUS PROBLEM. I am asking that NHTSA take some action to protect the lives of Isuzu Axiom owners, by contacting Isuzu and DEMANDING a recall of all affected vehicles.
According to postings on the Edmunds.com Axiom forum, this problem is fairly common on Axioms, but may affect other Axioms and other Isuzu models, such as Troopers or Rodeos. We suspect is that there was no or inadeqaute corrosion protection applied at the factory that is causing a premature failure of the frame where the rear traction control bar is attached.
Your prompt attention to this problem could save lives. PLEASE DO SOMETHING ABOUT THIS ISSUE before someone gets killed or injured.
*********************************
You may want to double check the diagnosis, you don't want to pay for a new computer when that may not be the problem. Also, computers are pretty reliable these days, so I would be surprised it is actually your problem.
It could also be a number of sensors that could cause the problem, but a proper diagnosis will tell you what is actually wrong.
But my poor ol' Axiom had some other oddball problem that I suspect was either the transmission or the rear end. It was a odd vibration that occurred at 1600 RPM at different MPHs. A low sounding shudder that would come and go. Coulda been tires, I guess, but I suspected the tranny, especially after the "flare problem" that happened a few weeks back when I went over a speed hump and my tranny "flared". Precision Transmission said it was just a little low on fluid, no detectable problem but there was still that weird shudder.
Anyway, with 112K miles on it, I no longer trusted that it would not fail on me somewhere. I had done a lot of work on it myself, and really, really wanted to keep it, but it just did not make any sense. So, I went to a large Honda dealer in Jacksonville, FL and traded it in on an 011 Pilot.
I tried several other SUVs and none were anywhere near the same kind of features as the Axiom, in spite of the all the problems that Axiom users report. Axioms really do have some great styling and great features, and I had no trouble averaging 18 MPG combined city/hwy mileage consistently on 10% ethanol gas.
The Pilot is slightly larger than the Axiom and its exterior is nothing to write home about, but the ride, interior design and features and engineering and quality well make up for that. It also sports a feature called Variable Cylinder Management that lets you get better mileage when you are not pressing hard on the accelerator, as it can throttle from 6 to 5 to 4 or even 3 cylnders to save gas.
The Pilot sits up a lot higher; feels more sold and safer and has really great disc brakes front and back and airbags everywhere. Lots of cupholders, cubbies and pockets to store stuff, too, and a lot of thought went into it. Very comfortable to drive in, which is to me, very important, as the seat in my 02 Ax fit my fat butt perfectly.
Before I got the Pilot, I tried several vehicles including the Ford Flex, the Kia Sorrento, the GMC Acadia (almost bought one, too), and I tried to squeeze myself into anything that Dodge/Jeep makes, but did not like any of their line - all were too uncomfortable. Nissan is overpriced and gets lousy mileage, and we already own a Toyota, and are disgusted with how Toyota is lying about the Unintended Acceleration problem, rather than fixing it (it's not the floormats like they say). We also were seriously looking at the Mitsubishi Endeavor or Outlander, as it is a lot like the Axiom at a much lower price, but the dealership situation is too much like the Isuzu scenario for my taste.
There is also an 011 Dodge Durango that has nice features but at the moment is a "vapor-mobile", meaning it's only a figment of the Dodge company's imagination. Wanted to test the new 011 Ford Explorer, which has been completely redesigned, but the local dealers did not have any in stock.
So, we got a Pilot. And it is an 4WD to boot. Really happy with it.
Except for my dog, Buddy. My faithful sidekick golden retriever. He is in a state of deep depression because he always got to go anywhere I went in the old Axiom, and he has been banned from the new Pilot.
Oh, by the way, I got $3600 off MSRP at the Honda place, $3000 for my trade-in Axiom on its last leg, and 1.9% interest on my car loan. Saved thousands compared to buying in my area, with a no dicker fair internet price. And, we were so glad that the '02 Axiom made the 90 mile journey to Jax without breaking down, that we considered it an omen of good luck.
So, I am signing off with this long post, letting all of you know that I am no longer amongst the ranks of the Axiom owners and lovers. Look for me on the Honda Pilot forum in the future.
May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind be ever at your rear bumper....
Along with the suspension rusting, the frame had rusted to the point it would not pass inspection. The dealer recommended a frame shop, and guessed it would be a few hundred dollars to repair the frame to make it inspectable.
Also rusted out was the metal cover that covered the plastic gas tank. The part costs about $315, and the tech said labor would be next to nothing, as the tank cover has to be removed to do the recall work.
I got a call today from the Isuzu dealer that the gas tank cover is obsolete, and no longer available (did they ever make it as a replacement part....who knows!!!).
Anyway, even though the tank cover is not part of the recall, since it has to be removed to do the warranty work, the Isuzu dealer said Isuzu will have to buy my Axiom back, and I need to go back to the dealer to have pictures taken.
I will keep you posted about what Isuzu does.
Has anyone else had Isuzu buy back their Axiom/Rodeo due to the recall work not being able to be done? If so, let me know, and if you could, let me know what Isuzu paid you. Thanks!!!
Anyway, I have the blinking TOD light. It is the 2 speed sensors on the transfer case. One ordered the other on national back order. Could be 3 weeks or longer, so not good on that end.
Trying to locate other sensor on Isuzu forums. Part No: 8972516870
If anyone has one please post.
Thanks.
It would be a mere guess, based on your info, as to whether your problem is truly fixed or not. However, the Service Manual (Workshop Manual) for the 2002 Axiom indicates that the MIL (CEL) can either be turned off by the Isuzu Tech 2 device (the "resetter" tool you mentioned)... I also suspect that if you disconnect your battery for about 40 minutes and then reconnect it that it might have the same effect, however the official Service Manual says the following with regard to a typical EGR fault code (this same passage is repeated for other similar EGR codes throughout the same section of the manual):
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
*The PCM will turn the MIL “OFF” on the third
consecutive trip cycle during which the diagnostic has
been run and the fault condition is no longer present.
* A history DTC P1404 will clear after 40 consecutive
warm-up cycles have occurred without a fault.
* DTC P1404 can be cleared by using the Tech 2 “Clear
Info” function or by disconnecting the PCM battery
feed.
**********
Given this info, the MIL may also clear up on its own, given enough time. If that doesn't do it, try disconnecting the battery for an extended period, then reconnecting it. If that doesn't work, then take your care to an Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts store (if you live in the US) and borrow their OBD2 scanner and use it to find out what the exact DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) is that your Ax is generating and post it back here or Google it yourself for more info.
Hope that helps.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dennis P.
Thanks!
Worst case, you may have to take it to a tire shop and have them use a cutting torch on it. Not easy, not fun and not cheap, but you won't be the first person who ever had to have it done.
This troubleshooting info actually gives the same solution twice in the manual, so it sounds like your mechanic is right on the mark, and is not trying to rip you off, although I cannot speak to the price of the PCM or the labor, as this varies from place to place. Frankly, his pricing sounds like California pricing to me, and it's about what the car is worth wholesale.
In a word, OUCH.
One option to tell him you don't have that kind of money and either scrap the vehicle or sell it for parts. Not sure if a salvage yard PCM could be used to replace your defective one, which would save some bucks, but it is worth asking about.
You could do a quasi-double-check at your local Honda dealer by calling the service manager and asking what it would cost to replace the same PCM module in a 2002 Passport, which is a rebadged Isuzu Rodeo. At least you would have some ball park numbers.
But, even so, you are at their mercy on this, so the deciding factor is this: Do I pay $2600 to get my old car working again, (when it is really worth about $3000-4000 now, or do I just scrap it?
The old saying about throwing good money after bad may apply here, but if you are working on being debt free and don't owe a lot on the vehicle and want to keep it (I miss my old 02 Axiom frankly and like it better than that 2011 Honda Pilot I bought for $33K), then you could certainly justify the cost that way.
Tough call either way.
Hope that helps.
What do you think about me trying to find a non-dealer mechanic to work on it? I am sure that would be cheaper but don't know how complicated job this would be. Also as a followup to those error codes, the dealer said I also need to have the throttle body replaced. Do those error codes indicate that as well?
Thanks so much for any other info you have!!
The throttle body is basically a carburetor-like device with an electronic DC Servo motor mounted on the side, and some sensors attached nearby it. So it is key to your vehicle running right.
I do wonder, though, why he wouldn't opt to CLEAN the throttle body and REPLACE the PCM, rather than do a REPLACE/REPLACE. Of course, I am not there, and don't have a Tech2 scanner to check your vehicle, which your mechanic may have done. There are some troubleshooting steps detailed in the manual that he would have had to do to come to the conclusion that the throttle body needed to be replaced. I just hope it's not a guess on his part, as the T.B. is probably an expensive part.
Then again, "in for a pound, in for a penny" might apply, since if he replaced the PCM and it still ran like crap, he would have to replace the T/B next. I just wonder if it wouldn't be possible to clean the T/B rather than replace it.
A worthwhile and legitimate question to ask your mechanic is this: "what in your opinion indicates that the throttle body needs to be replaced, rather than just cleaned?"..., and related to that, "can we just clean the T/B and replace the PCM and see how it runs?" It would seem to me that you can always go back and replace the T/B if that does not work. Cleaning the T/B should be relatively inexpensive compared to replacing it.
I do not mean to cast doubt on what your mechanic suggested, as he could be in the right on this, but it is worth checking out. Given the cost, you could always check with your local Honda dealer service department, as they should have the tools to work on your Isuzu and can render an opinion on it.
Finally, if you want, I can give you my copy of the 02 Service Manual. I don't need it anymore and it is in PDF format. Send me an email to "inboxbancca.org", replacing the with the "@" symbol, and I will give it to you and you can pour over it for yourself. It's very helpful and detailed manual - the shop manual that the techs use themselves - and is searchable. Might help you sort this out for yourself.
I have a 2002 Axiom that is having transmission problems and may need a new one. I bought it new and really love the car! BUT does it make *any* sense to install a rebuilt transmission in an Ax w 127,000 mi on it? The dealer replaced the trans under warranty at ~50k and is quoting $6k for a rebuilt.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks!
Barbara :-)
Meanwhile, we looked at new cars -- the Santa Fe and Outback were contenders, but neither had the power or interior size of the Ax (mileage was a different story, along w gee-whiz electronics, but as I said, I love my Ax!). Anyway, a rebuild is under way, and we're looking forward to more years w the Isuzu.
Thanks again!
Barbara :-)
What I do is put $300 in a savings account monthly as if I'm making a car payment, in about 5 years I'll have a good amount for a down payment on my next ride if the Ax holds up.
Joe is there any way you could tell me what size the bolts were for your roof rack. I have a used rack I bought to put on ours and I don't want to disassemble until I have all the parts gathered.
Mcihael