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http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/2001/november/200111_feature_gasoline.xml
If the link doesn't work, just go to www.caranddriver.com and click on the feature titled "Regular or Premium?"
Dano
blended oil and it does shift alittle better. I wish us all the best.
Dano
I FOR ONE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE HAS FOUND A
REAL SOLUTION TO ANY OF THE PROBLEMS DISCUSSED HERE.
Hypothesis: Convective and radiated heat fool the sensor and cause high readings. Location of temp sensor(s) is too high and does not get good fresh air flow.
First Solution: Relocate sensor using available slack in wires and elongated bracket. This was later adopted by Nissan too. RESULTS: Improved performance but still read too high in "city" driving.
Second Solution: Split wire loom to free up more slack in sensor wires and relocate sensors to right hand bumper opening near fog light. RESULTS: Acceptable readings in most driving conditions (including stop and go). Reading still reads a couple degrees above actual temp.
Discussion: Wires for sensor exit harness just behind hood latch. Popped the harnes out of slot and peeled tape off harness from latch to RH headlight. The plastic loom is now exposed and the sensor wires can be pulled out up to the RH headlight. Installed protective loom on extra sensor wires and reinstalled main harness to frame. Ran sensor wires to right of radiator w/ wire ties and clamped bracked from first solution to bottom lip of bumper. Sensors now get lots of air flow and are not exposed to nearly as much engine heat.
Hope this helps anyone interested....
Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward. (Ideally, the temp sensor should be located on the tip of your radio antenna, but I guess that would be impractical.)
"Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward."
YES and NO... my cars have less ground clearance and their sensors are much closer to the ground. The PF location is shielded from direct radiant heat of the road and only sees air temp (and radiant heat from plastic cowling. Hence, I've found the interference is neglibable between 24-in vs. 36-in elevation. The engine heat at the old location made a huge difference.
Let me know if you have any questions
the temp sensor in my PF has an "ICE" warning light that comes on at certain times during the winter. i assumed that this was a warning about icy roads (since it didn't always come on at the same temperature), and that the sensor was therefore measuring road temperature and possibly air pressure. did i just get some quirky readings and imagine the rest?
i agree that an ambient air temp sensor is more marketable, but i would find a road temp sensor more useful for the reason mentioned above.
the best location for an ambient temp sensor on our truck would be somewhere around the rear glass hatch handle. sources of heat like the engine, exhaust system, and road should be avoided for obvious reasons, but so too should air streams lest you get a low reading due to convective currents. obviously, you'll still get some turbulence around the rear hatch, but it will be a lot less than that found in the front, sides, top, etc. well, food for thought.
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My rear hatch squeaks like crazy especially over bumps. I took them out silicon sprayed/WD-40 them but it all comes back a week or so later. I went to the dealer trying to get the new rubber "dovetails" hoping they will help. I talked to the tech and 2 minutes later, he came back with a, guess what, printout TSB for it. I didn't know Nissan has a TSB for rear hatch squeak. Basically, the TSB called for removal of the lower rubber "dovetail" and throw them away. What the heck?
Overtime, the lower rubber will become harden and when the hard plastic part rubs against it, it makes noise. It seems like a bad design from the start.
Here's some info on the TSB.
Classification: BT00-004
Reference: NTB00-020
Date: February 23, 2000
1996-2000 Pathfinder squeak/rattle noise at rear hatch
Applied Vehicle: 1996-00 Pathfinder (R50)
The TSB Procedures:
1. Open rear hatch
2. Remove screw from the dovetail lower rubber. Discard the dovetail lower rubber.
3. Clean the body where the dovetail was previously installed then re-install the screw.
Note: Do not remove the dovetail striker (on the rear hatch).
4. Repeat steps one and two for the other side.
....
msoma
Duper and Kpt_Krunch, keep us updated because my hatch is starting to squeek again at 39k.
The grease form is applied by rubbing in on with your fingers.
After reading that TSB, I cleaned and lubed (silicone spray) the dovetail striker and striker plate, and now my squeek is gone. Guess I skipped that step last time. Should be good for another 4-5k miles.
Has anyone else had this experience?I'm guessing it has something to do with tow hitch,that I don't need.The first 750 miles were great.
1. I would like to display CD text. To change the indicated text, the manual says, "push the TUNE button (up) after pushing the PTY button." A. That's not working. B. Does that mean I'm supposed to be able to somehow enter the name of the Disc title or track title?
2. I don't understand the point of the AUTOP button. What is the purpose of automatic presets?
3. Same question as above, only for the PTY button. What is the purpose of the program type button? Why can't I program a radio station with a specific program type?
Please help me if you can. I'm very new at this and I just picked up the car on Friday. Thank you.
Now that I think about it, my problem wasn't a fuse blowing, it was the actual brake light switch that turned on the brake lights...sometimes they worked, but sometimes they didn't.
1) My brakes are pulsating like I need the rotors turned... with only 16000 miles on it.
2) I've rotated my tires twice & both times I noticed a lot of tire wear on the outer edges of the fronts. I'm hoping I just need the camber adjusted or they're toe'd in too much. I just hope the dealership doesn't tell me they all do that.
Also, something that surprised me... I was checking the transfer case fluid for the first time (15,000 mile maint.) & when I removed the fill plug fluid ran out until it dropped to that level. Dealership says they overfill them at the factory & it's nothing to worry about. Just let it drain to the fill plug. Thought you might want to know. Thanks...
had both rear changed at 10k. There is a federal
emmisons warrenty it shouldn't cost anything. But
there are not rear costly. You could change them your self.
sensors are on the exhaust manifold and/or aft
the cat-converter. The '01 PF like mine has
4 O2 sensors. They are not difficult to change
just need a special socket because the wire must
be protective.
Thanks
what bad talk about fram?
Dano
Maybe I'll get around to doing my own comparison next time I change my oil. Eh, who am I kidding ...
http://www.motorvate.ca/auto/maxima/oil_filter/oil_filter.htm
While the Nissan filter has higher quality components, I'm not convinced that it would filter oil any better than the Fram, which is the only thing that really matters.
Then again, with Nissan filters at $5 a pop, maybe it's a moot point ...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/R50_tuneup.html