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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    I read this article on the Car and Driver magazine website. It gives a good explanation.


    http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/features/2001/november/200111_feature_gasoline.xml


    If the link doesn't work, just go to www.caranddriver.com and click on the feature titled "Regular or Premium?"

  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    Our trans is a little worse too. I can't find the time to take it in to have it fixed. Have you any information on what your trans trouble is? We are at 25K and would like to have it repaired before the warranty runs out at 36K.

    Dano
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Just FYI- Your transmission is covered under the 60K powertrain warranty.
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    There is a 60k drive train warrenty. But I think the only way to save these transmissions is install a shift kit to ferm up the shifts. I have done this on a old Ford PU with a C-6 transmission I owned years ago. It is nice from a drivers point of view but the smooth shifts glaze the clutches because when the trans shifts one set of clutches start to engage before another release is the reason the engine slows slightly before it completes the shift. I talked to the dealer and they have no way of changing the shift pressure or the clutch sift sequence. Might have to go to an independent trans shop to fix these slipping trans. You could use synthic oil or synthic blend oil and it might last a bit long I started using syn
    blended oil and it does shift alittle better. I wish us all the best.
  • windfalls99windfalls99 Member Posts: 20
    I have owned a 2001 LE for about 6 months now and I have never been happy with the fit and finish of the leather seats, especially in the front. There are just too many creases. I use a good leather conditioner, but I still feel the seats won't hold up for the long term. I have talked to the dealer and they will not replace the leather unless it starts to crack (while under warrantee of course). Has anyone else noticed a deterioration in the leather over time? I have read Meca2's comments "the leather seats look like they where made from a hundred year old cow". I could not agree more.
  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    Good that the trans is covered for 60K!

    Dano
  • mike354mike354 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 01 SE and the gauges (temp, speedometer,tachometer,fuel)and the odometer have intermittently shut down while driving. The compass readout also stays in one direction during this period. They come back after a while. Since it is intermittent, the Nissan Service techs probably will never find it. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    just bought 02 path and hooked up trailer and lights on trailer worked perfect. hooked up again for 1000 mile trip to fla and lost trailer tailights completly. checked every fuse none out. finally crawled under back bumper and found fuse on wiring harness 3 amp and it was blown. fuse is not in owners manual and also is different physical size (not mini). bought spares to carry along just in case. this is a nissan hitch!
  • pat01pat01 Member Posts: 23
    Mike354! See reply at Nissan Pathfinder Main Comment Area - IX (SUV Board), post #4069
  • ddssjsk9ddssjsk9 Member Posts: 36
    REMEMBER THIS IS A PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS FORUM.
    I FOR ONE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE HAS FOUND A
    REAL SOLUTION TO ANY OF THE PROBLEMS DISCUSSED HERE.
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    Problem: Temp Sensor reads too high (esp. summer)

    Hypothesis: Convective and radiated heat fool the sensor and cause high readings. Location of temp sensor(s) is too high and does not get good fresh air flow.

    First Solution: Relocate sensor using available slack in wires and elongated bracket. This was later adopted by Nissan too. RESULTS: Improved performance but still read too high in "city" driving.

    Second Solution: Split wire loom to free up more slack in sensor wires and relocate sensors to right hand bumper opening near fog light. RESULTS: Acceptable readings in most driving conditions (including stop and go). Reading still reads a couple degrees above actual temp.

    Discussion: Wires for sensor exit harness just behind hood latch. Popped the harnes out of slot and peeled tape off harness from latch to RH headlight. The plastic loom is now exposed and the sensor wires can be pulled out up to the RH headlight. Installed protective loom on extra sensor wires and reinstalled main harness to frame. Ran sensor wires to right of radiator w/ wire ties and clamped bracked from first solution to bottom lip of bumper. Sensors now get lots of air flow and are not exposed to nearly as much engine heat.

    Hope this helps anyone interested....
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    How did you "clamp" the bracket in the bumper opening?

    Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward. (Ideally, the temp sensor should be located on the tip of your radio antenna, but I guess that would be impractical.)
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    I cheated somewhat, because I used a bolt from my custom radiator protection screen. If you look in the opening, you'll see a black piece of metal (which is the bottom of the bumper). I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bumper, where I secured part of my expanded steel mesh radiator screen.

    "Also, be aware that the sensor's closer proximity to the ground will produce false readings in the summer, when the pavement radiates heat upward."

    YES and NO... my cars have less ground clearance and their sensors are much closer to the ground. The PF location is shielded from direct radiant heat of the road and only sees air temp (and radiant heat from plastic cowling. Hence, I've found the interference is neglibable between 24-in vs. 36-in elevation. The engine heat at the old location made a huge difference.

    Let me know if you have any questions
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    Most Nissans don't have problems. With no problems how can there be solutions.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    jeckles and xplorx4,

    the temp sensor in my PF has an "ICE" warning light that comes on at certain times during the winter. i assumed that this was a warning about icy roads (since it didn't always come on at the same temperature), and that the sensor was therefore measuring road temperature and possibly air pressure. did i just get some quirky readings and imagine the rest?

    i agree that an ambient air temp sensor is more marketable, but i would find a road temp sensor more useful for the reason mentioned above.

    the best location for an ambient temp sensor on our truck would be somewhere around the rear glass hatch handle. sources of heat like the engine, exhaust system, and road should be avoided for obvious reasons, but so too should air streams lest you get a low reading due to convective currents. obviously, you'll still get some turbulence around the rear hatch, but it will be a lot less than that found in the front, sides, top, etc. well, food for thought.
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    My 2001 LE temp sensor reads "ICE" from +4 C and below. There are no other causes - whether the roads are bare or otherwise.
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    The ice indicator comes on early to worn of ice on bridges,shadow areas on roads ect. It is working ok.
  • duperduper Member Posts: 127
    I posted this on another forum, but want to share it here.

    --------------------------------------------------

    My rear hatch squeaks like crazy especially over bumps. I took them out silicon sprayed/WD-40 them but it all comes back a week or so later. I went to the dealer trying to get the new rubber "dovetails" hoping they will help. I talked to the tech and 2 minutes later, he came back with a, guess what, printout TSB for it. I didn't know Nissan has a TSB for rear hatch squeak. Basically, the TSB called for removal of the lower rubber "dovetail" and throw them away. What the heck?
    Overtime, the lower rubber will become harden and when the hard plastic part rubs against it, it makes noise. It seems like a bad design from the start.

    Here's some info on the TSB.

    Classification: BT00-004
    Reference: NTB00-020
    Date: February 23, 2000

    1996-2000 Pathfinder squeak/rattle noise at rear hatch
    Applied Vehicle: 1996-00 Pathfinder (R50)

    The TSB Procedures:
    1. Open rear hatch
    2. Remove screw from the dovetail lower rubber. Discard the dovetail lower rubber.
    3. Clean the body where the dovetail was previously installed then re-install the screw.
    Note: Do not remove the dovetail striker (on the rear hatch).
    4. Repeat steps one and two for the other side.

    ....
  • jmsmithbc1jmsmithbc1 Member Posts: 9
    Has anyone had to replace their fog lamp lens. I stopped by my dealer to buy a new one for my 01' SE and they wanted $117.00 for it. SOUNDS STEEP! Any experiences?
  • kpt_krunchkpt_krunch Member Posts: 21
    Been there, done that - no difference whatsoever. Still squeaks EXACTLY the same as it did before. Next time I have the vehicle in for service (my free oil change) I will ask them to look at it to determine what else could be causing it.
  • msomamsoma Member Posts: 1
    My 99.5 PF died!! The transfer case now has a hole in the side of it. Never been off road, only 30K miles, has been maintained religously. All started the other day, 1st time this season using 4wd...wasn't pretty. I think the noise woke the neighbors. Took it to Nissan, they told me it looked like it was drained....huh? Nissan doesn't want to warranty it...Huh? Took it to 2 other mechanics and a transmission specialist. Looks like the 'chain'(?) inside broke and caused the hole in the TC. On my way tomorrow to ANOTHER Nissan Service Center. Anyone had any problems with this? Any advice?

    msoma
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Member Posts: 210
    Saw discussion of filters earlier in this forum, and was wondering if anyone is using a Fram replacement? Fram does not list a filter for the 01 PF on their site. I usually do all of my own changes, but while out shopping I noticed that my wife was just under 3k, so being the sport that I am I went to a Jiffy Lube only to be told that they have been having trouble with a filter spec from Nissan and that they couldn't do the change.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    I seem to get this problem every 5-10k miles, depending on how much I leave my rear hatch open in dirty environments (e.g. ski resorts). Dealer recommended silicone lubricant, which worked the first time, but not the second, so the dealer had to take care of it at my 30k check-up.

    Duper and Kpt_Krunch, keep us updated because my hatch is starting to squeek again at 39k.
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    Try silicone grease instead of spray. It is usually sold as "dielectric grease". It lasts much longer than the spray (I use the spray - LPS C01516 after washing in the winter on all door seals - to "chase away" any remaining water so I can open the doors an hour later ;-). It's a water based formula so it will not disolve the door seal glue (even approved for food processing plants).

    The grease form is applied by rubbing in on with your fingers.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    Thanks for the heads up on the grease pathstar, I'll try that next time.

    After reading that TSB, I cleaned and lubed (silicone spray) the dovetail striker and striker plate, and now my squeek is gone. Guess I skipped that step last time. Should be good for another 4-5k miles.
  • deebardacdeebardac Member Posts: 23
    My '01 LE 'Beeps' occasionally while we are driving. The Service Manager told me that the system was telling me it was not programmed properly, although everything appeared to be functioning, alarm, doors locks etc., and could not be reprogrammed. The 'Problem' was traced to the Smart entrance module. This item was changed and the system reprogrammed. It still Beeps at me. Any suggestions? Another possible connection is that the vehicle will arbitrarily lock itself when the keys are in the ignition, and as I live in desolate southern Saskatchewan I do not relish the thought of having to relieve myself when it is minus 40 degrees and finding myself locked out. I have had another key cut.
  • fsupfinderfsupfinder Member Posts: 2
    My 2002 PathfinderLE was towed back to the dealer last night.The stop light fuse blew and the shift lock would not release.I replaced the fuse. The shift lock released but the fuse blew for a second time!I managed to scrounge a 3rd fuse and was able to drive my AWD LE on to the back of a flatbed!(Not that you would but you could)It is now Satutday morning and they can't look at it until Monday.The 1994 Sentra XE I traded(gave away)never once left me stranded.
    Has anyone else had this experience?I'm guessing it has something to do with tow hitch,that I don't need.The first 750 miles were great.
  • 02pfse02pfse Member Posts: 1
    Please help me, the owner's manual for my 02 SE does not explain this very well:

    1. I would like to display CD text. To change the indicated text, the manual says, "push the TUNE button (up) after pushing the PTY button." A. That's not working. B. Does that mean I'm supposed to be able to somehow enter the name of the Disc title or track title?

    2. I don't understand the point of the AUTOP button. What is the purpose of automatic presets?

    3. Same question as above, only for the PTY button. What is the purpose of the program type button? Why can't I program a radio station with a specific program type?

    Please help me if you can. I'm very new at this and I just picked up the car on Friday. Thank you.
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    My '93 Altima did the same thing to me. There should be a "Shift Interlock Release" somewhere right around the shifter. It seems like I could use a key on my Altima (shove the key through the release slot and put the car in neutral, then start the car and drive normally...just don't use park until you're really sure). I haven't needed it on my '99.5 Pathfinder.

    Now that I think about it, my problem wasn't a fuse blowing, it was the actual brake light switch that turned on the brake lights...sometimes they worked, but sometimes they didn't.
  • fsupfinderfsupfinder Member Posts: 2
    The brake light fuse popping was caused by a chafed wire on the tow hitch wiring harness.The harness was replaced.While on the lift they noticed one of the rear shocks was leaking.The shock is on back order.The hatch glass was squeaking but thanks to the advice of the Town Hall it has been silenced.1500 miles and still going!
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    I've been noticing my 2001 Pathfinder LE is constantly making this electrical buzzing noise after I've driven it and parked it in the garage with the engine off. I called the local Nissan service department and was told "this is normal...it's the electric fuel pump making this noise". My question to you owners is, have any of you been experiencing this noise? My 99 Accord makes a simular noise, but only when the temperature is hot and driven for awhile. My PF make this buzzing noise near the gas tank hours after it's been driven. This noise use to only occur once in a great while, but it's now a every day occurance.
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    Although I haven't noticed it as much on my 2001 LE, I used to get it alot with my 99.5 LE. In my case it was NOT the fuel pump. It was actually pressure slowly escaping (by design) from the fuel tank via the fuel filler vent. Many PF owners noticed it and it was considered normal and safe. It was like a high pitched buzzing...is that the noise?
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    The best I can describe is the noise sort of sounds like when your inserting cd's...or ejecting them numerous times. I guess I won't worry about it to much, it's still under warranty with Nissan for another 2 years and a addtional 3 years with Geico Ins.
  • sidefxsidefx Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased my 1999 LE PF a week ago. The previous owner had no problems with it. It has 63000 miles on it and today the service engine soon light came on and stays on. I checked the gas cap and it's on securely. Just had it inspected yesterday and the cap was fine under their test of it. Does anyone know if this light can be reset? The owners manual says only that it could be an emmissions problem. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the fix and how costly?
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey, I have a 2001 PF & was wondering if any one else has had these problems:
    1) My brakes are pulsating like I need the rotors turned... with only 16000 miles on it.
    2) I've rotated my tires twice & both times I noticed a lot of tire wear on the outer edges of the fronts. I'm hoping I just need the camber adjusted or they're toe'd in too much. I just hope the dealership doesn't tell me they all do that.

    Also, something that surprised me... I was checking the transfer case fluid for the first time (15,000 mile maint.) & when I removed the fill plug fluid ran out until it dropped to that level. Dealership says they overfill them at the factory & it's nothing to worry about. Just let it drain to the fill plug. Thought you might want to know. Thanks...
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    Have the O2 sensors checked. I have a 2001 and
    had both rear changed at 10k. There is a federal
    emmisons warrenty it shouldn't cost anything. But
    there are not rear costly. You could change them your self.
  • sidefxsidefx Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. But can you tell me what are O2 sensors? Emmission I presume? How can I find out about the emmissions warrenty? Also, any links you may have to Nissan Pathfinder sites ie:Recals,Info, would be greatly appreciated. BTW- I disconnected the battery and the service light remained off but returned after approx. 500 miles. I would replace these sensors myself if I new where they were located. Thanks
  • windfalls99windfalls99 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 2001 LE with approximately 24,000km(14,400 miles)on the clock. Recently, while traveling on snow covered roads in auto mode at 100 km per hour (60mph), I noticed a very small vibration through the steering wheel. It disappeared when I switched back into 2 wheel drive or slowed down to 50 km or less. Has anyone else expirienced this condition? I have not noticed it before.
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    The owners manual explains the warrenty. The O2
    sensors are on the exhaust manifold and/or aft
    the cat-converter. The '01 PF like mine has
    4 O2 sensors. They are not difficult to change
    just need a special socket because the wire must
    be protective.
  • mpg5mpg5 Member Posts: 68
    what is the best way to address rear chrome bumper rusting through from inside and same problem with step bars? can they still be purchased new or do i need to search junkyards and hope to find clean parts? i'm assuming second hand junkyard parts are going to be rusting as well.thanks for your help.
  • bobp8bobp8 Member Posts: 1
    I am unable to find a repair manual for my 98 PF. The closest I have found is for a 95 Frontier. Anybody have suggestions? Also, looking for aftermarket/performance disc brakes. My fronts keep warping too, besides easy use.
    Thanks
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    i just changed oil and filter on new 02 pathy. i use fram ph7317 same as i used on 95 mamima. maxima is still working great after 7 years, even though all the bad talk about fram.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    sivi1,

    what bad talk about fram?
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Member Posts: 210
    Lots of people have been hammering Fram. I have used Frams forever, and never had and problems. I also use the ph7317, but according to Fram it won't fit all '01 Pathfinders (which is why in some of their in store catalogs there is no filter listed for the application). Apparently some 01s have an alternator bracket which is in interference with the ph7317.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    what specifically have they been saying about frams? is there any evidence to support this, or is this just a chevy vs. ford thing? no offense, alwaysfords.
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Member Posts: 210
    People have been discussing their at home measurements of filter area, filter pore sizes, etc, for both air and oil filters. Most of the at home scientists have jumped on Fram for having sub par products. Like I said, I've always used them and never had a problem. I'm sure this is the same experience anybody who has regularly changed their filters has had, regardless of brand.
  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    I have used the Fram PH7317 for the past 30K miles on our 2001 Pathy. So far have had no troubles. I did notice both on Fram's web site and in store catalogs that a filter is not was not listed as of the last oil change, 3 weeks ago. Not sure why except for the possibilities listed above by alwaysford.
    Dano
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    Thanks alwaysfords - has anyone posted pictures with an actual comparison?

    Maybe I'll get around to doing my own comparison next time I change my oil. Eh, who am I kidding ...
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Member Posts: 210
    People have offered to post the pics, but I don't recall what board all the discussion happened on. I'm with you Brian - if I ever get to the point where I not only have time to change the oil, but to also cut the filter apart and inspect it I'll be a happy person.
  • brian60brian60 Member Posts: 76
    Found a page that does a nice comparison of a Nissan vs. Fram filter comparison ...


    http://www.motorvate.ca/auto/maxima/oil_filter/oil_filter.htm


    While the Nissan filter has higher quality components, I'm not convinced that it would filter oil any better than the Fram, which is the only thing that really matters.


    Then again, with Nissan filters at $5 a pop, maybe it's a moot point ...


    http://www.courtesyparts.com/R50_tuneup.html

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