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http://www.law.com/jsp/article.jsp?id=1048518273610
I own a 2000 ML320 with 36,000 miles and have yet to replace the brake pads. I know of others who have gotten 50,000 miles before replacing brakes and I also know of some who have replaced their brake pads at 15,000 miles. It all depends on your driving style and whether the miles are mostly city or highway.
The other thing you must consider is that you are stopping a 4,600 lb. vehicle versus most cars that weigh only 3,200 lb. Breaking more weight results in faster break pad wear.
Whether you drive a M-Class, C-Class, E-Class or S-Class, you usually can figure about $200 per axle to replace the brake pads. Usually, rotors do not have to be replaced on the first brake pad change. Was the Mercedes dealer going to replace both front and rear pads? Was "Brake Masters" going to use OEM Mercedes pads or something cheaper? I would not use anything other than OEM parts since cheaper pads won't stop the vehicle as well, may accelerate rotor wear and may squeal when stopping.
By the way, don't complain about Mercedes brake pad replacement cost. If you owned a BMW, you need to change both the pads and rotors which usually runs around $800.
One reason that all four(4) pads need replacing is that all Mercedes vehicles have a very advanced braking system that "reads" the braking force on each wheel and adjusts braking pressure to provide equal braking by each wheel. This provides superior braking than a vehicle without this system. The braking systems employed by Mercedes are much more technologically advanced than most other vehicles and that is another reason I would not want to use anything other than Mercedes OEM pads.
"You can drive a car or drive a Benz ... a car for a few years ... a Benz for a lifetime." Once you have driven a Benz, it has a certain feel that makes it hard to drive anything else again.
I agree with you that after the change of ownership MB of Omaha's service has been going downhill...Couple weeks ago when I brought my ML for another repair (noise from center air vent) they promised me a loaner but did not give one to me...also the two-week leadtime in scheduling service is just unbelievable...
Did you check with MB of Omaha regarding the result of the class action lawsuit?
If you would, keep in touch regarding the ML problems and send me an e-mail at hermantam@cox.net. Thanks!
While I'm on the subject, the car is a $40k piece of junk. Powersteering doesn't work at low speed, unrelated to recent recall on hose. MB acknowledges the problem exists but labels it a "characteristic" of the vehicle. I believe serious design flaw in vehicle. Good thing lemon law worked. Hope to hear from MBUSA soon about repurchase of car. After the way I was treated by MBUSA (dealer was OK), I would never purchase another MB, no matter how safe, reliable, cool... I have had problems with mold in the AC unit, AC fan bearing failed, glove box door replaced, windshield seal failed, driver seat creaks around base(no solution), windshield fluid reservoir cracked, oil pan seal failed, used Teleaid once to find a toys r us for XMAS shopping while out of town - wound up in an industrial park. All total 18 days in shop, not including the A service.
thx
My ML350 when stopped at a red light keeps wanting to go forward from time to time even though I press on the brakes. It jolts forward, stops, then jolts forward again. It does this for about 10 seconds and stops. I feel that when this happens I have to press the brakes very hard in order to not hit the car in front of me while at a red light. It doesn't do this everytime, but regardless it's a huge concern that a brand new truck is doing this. I counted the # of times this happened was about 4 so far.
Possible causes: Owners of Mercedes-Benz vehicles mentioned these to me:
Someone told me this could be due to the throttle actuator which wouldn't trigger any check engine lights.
OR
It could be that the engine idle is not smooth and steady so far as rpms are concerned. No check engine lights came on at all when this happens.
OR
The engine computer is running the air/fuel mixture too lean partly due to the air in the region. The engine would then almost stall, causing the computer to dump a higher than usual amount of fuel in to prevent it from dying. This resulted in the "jolt" at the traffic light.
Problem #2
Dates of occurences:
4-26-03
5-7-03
My ML350 was stopped at a red light. The light turned green so I took my foot off of the brakes and pressed the accelerator pedal. While still pressing on the accelerator pedal the car didn't move forward but instead it started to shake just a little bit and stalled for about 4 seconds. I seriously thought the engine was going to shut down and cars behind me were beeping their horns since I wasn't moving forward at all. After about 4 seconds of the car being stalled this stopped and I kept on driving home. No check engine lights came on at all when this happened. Also, another huge concern of mine since this is a brand new truck.
Possible causes:
The engine computer is running the air/fuel mixture too lean partly due to the air in the region. The engine would then almost stall, causing the computer to dump a higher than usual amount of fuel in to prevent it from dying. This resulted in the "jolt" at the traffic light.
shot to near maximum volume. Both times on the
AM band. I've heard that there is a cicuit that
detects increased or decreased cabin noise, and
thus makes automatic compensating volume adjustments. In both instances there was no change in cabin noise.
Secondly, also twice in two months, I started the car and the radio wants my PIN code, like it lost
power or something.
I'll be bringing it in under warrantee, but just wanted to know if others have seen either of these problems.
What a great car for the money - in spite of a short list of design shortcomings and minor problems, this has been one nice utility vehicle!
My Dad owns one of them and with over 30K he already had a few warranty repairs (nothing major) he really enjoys the car but we have a few questions.
1. What do you think about keeping the engine oil to 10-13K miles between oil changes, what oil is MB dealer using? is it really Mobil1?
I have had used Mobil1 and Amsoil oils and I know that with about 5K miles those overall great oils have to be changed.
What do you do?
2. Tranny fluid
Tranny is sealed so fluid can't never be changed!?!?!
Sounds liks a non-sense, do you ML owners really belive it?
Do you really thing that your car will be OK at 150K miles after never changing the fluid in your tranny?
If not, did any of you changed your tranny fluid yet. If you did, what brand (Mobil 1 ATF?) and how did you do it?
(Dealer, independent shop)
3. Do you recommend buying extended warranty for another 5 years up to 100K miles?
Personaly knowing ML series from Edmunds forum and my Dad's case I would not buy but lease it for 3 years.
Help greatly apreciated.
Since they are telling me that I need both the brakes and rotors should I just keep driving until the brake light goes on? Whats the worst that can happen? I'll need new rotors .
I had also had to replace my rear brakes at 11,000 miles. Never heard of having to replace the rear brakes before the fronts.
Aziz
The noise is very intermittent and does not stop when the vehicle is turned off. It started about two weeks ago and has occured randomly about 4 times since then.
If anyone has any information regarding this problem please post the details.
Thanks!
I just finished reading all 125 messages and I have to admit I am kinda of relieved. I thought that my 1999 ml320 was one of few plagued with problems but now it looks like 90% of the drivers are experiencing the same. Now, the reason I paid $45k for a Mercedes is to bypass all that headache and in retrospect I should've like some of you recommended, paid half for a Kia or Civic but I was fooled into the stylish look of MLs (which is still one the best looking SUVs). Personally, I believe Mercedes is misleading people using false advertising, claiming in one commercial that finally this is an SUV that drives like a Mercedes. My experience was so bad that 6 months after purchasing my car I asked to meet with a regional manager with the hope to get rid of this car and get my money back but instead I was promised that all these problems would be fixed. None of them has been fixed, in fact on several occasions I've taken the car back 3 or 4 times to fix the same problem and now I've given up.
I plan to park my car in front of MB and contact my local newspaper and tv station to let the future buyers know what a "crappy" deal they're getting and I urge you to do the same. In fact if many of you are interested we should set a date and do it simultaneously. The resale value of these cars speaks for itself. Most of us are stuck with them unless we're willing to swallow our pride and admit a $25k loss.
Is it sound like a very high pitch noise, sound like coming from a fan. my ml320 1998. starting to do this some time last winter. it only happened in the very cold day. is not the belt. the noise is only hear inside. if you try re start the engine the noise will go away.
Any one know how to fix it please. I don't trust MB dealer, they keep the car inside the garage so the car is warm. than tell you that is no noise at all. so you look like a ????.
by the way the noise goes away after 10-15 mins.
The place I purchased the gas at states I was the only one who has this problem. I always purchase my gas there. Purchased fuel on one day, had 'B' service done on the car. No problems. Gassed up the next day and with in a short time the check engine light came on.
Thanking you in advance,
What I would do is pump out the wate/gas tank. refill a tank of gas/gas.
By the way how do you tell that is a water in your gas?
Hope this helps!
Can anyone with experience of 3rd party extended warranties give me advice as to which are the reputable companies from whom to purchase extended warranties?
I am located in Dallas, TX
Many thanks
Steve
Extended Warranties
Ouch, all because of some water in the gas!
For those of you wondering, you can tell the color difference since the steering wheel is black and the side panels are black.
We really need a bigger SUV with a third row. So here is my question to you all: What would you do in my place? Ask them to buy my car for high blue book since we really need a third row? I'm not sure I want another ML but I feel as though I'm stuck with another MB.
Appreciate any advice.
A tip for all: Pay with credit card or get 'cash receipt' and put your odometer mileage on the slip. You can verify (hopefully will be creditable) how many miles since you fueled up there. I always use the same gas station unless on a trip.
Does anyone know where to buy OEM brakes pads for
2000 ML320? What's the brand Mercedes use as their OEM pads for ML320? Galfer USA or Textar? (Jurid or Pagid?)Please post the websites ASAP. Thanks!
Paul
I went to 2 Mercedes dealers and they said this is just the way the brakes are designed on an ML. They also said there is no way to adjust this travel distance.
Is this true?
The first is an intermittent accelerator hesitation problem...from a standing stop you will step on the gas on nothing happens. No revs, no movement of the vehicle...nothing. Then after two-three seconds off it goes like nothing was wrong. It has happened when the vehicle is hot or cold, and there does seem to be a common weather factor...it seems to always happen when it is 80 degrees or above. We do live in an area that is also very humid most of the time (South Texas). How often does it happen? One or twice per week...sometimes four of five times per day.
Next is a transmission problem...once again intermittent. The transmission will not up shift or it will downshift at will. Happens once or twice per month maybe. First go around the dealer replaced the control module but it still happens.
We are wits end...not only are these two problems a reoccurring pain but that are both a real safety issue.
I have read of others with the hesitation problem...how about the transmission problem?
Thanks!
Jeff
McAllen, Texas
Thanks!
Jeff
McAllen, Texas
Thanks!
Jeff
McAllen, Texas