How ironic. I started at Huffines as they are closest to me. There sales people where REAL bad (am in sales myself). No follow-up calls, slow to respond to emails. When I showed up, they would not even counter my offer. I had stopped by Allen Samuels a few weeks back and decided to re-visit them. My experience was similar to your - FANTASTIC salesman (Joe O'Neal), really made me feel good about the transaction. As far as price, I got a good deal. They essentially matched Fitzmall. LTD, touring pkg, premium pkg, pinstripe, and window tinting MSRP was 29300 Settled at 24750 after rebates + TTL Kicker - they didnot have the vehicle in stock (surprising for their inventory). They did find one close by (color issue) and are trailering to me. GREAT SERVICE and in my opinion worth the $1-200 I might have saved somewhere else.
Financing rebate was extra $500 but rate was cruddy, have been advised by others to pay it for a month or two then have my credit union (5%) transfer the note. MY last piece of advice back to the board - the inspection sticker (TX new cars) is good for 2 years. The dealership puts it on the car when they arrive. Now you know how long it has been sitting on the lot.
Thanks for everyones help and advice Regards Sammy
Hey, I'm new to the site, but there's some great info here. I am looking to buy a 2007 Santa Fe FWD Limited with 3rd row seating in Houston, TX. As of Labor Day weekend, I was getting a quote of about $24,300, but since then, I guess they've introduced a rebate. Anybody with recent experience around here with some guidance on price and financing? A few questions in general too? 1. Is the rebate $1000 or $1500? 2. What kind of things are people able to get thrown in when negotiating? (oil changes, mats, etc.?) 3. I didn't care for the base stereo on the test drive, but the upgrade is too much. What are people doing about this? 4. Does anybody have comments on the brakes because they seemed mediocre to me? Well, I appreciate the help.
I live in Houston and I went to the local dealer who advertised $18,500 for a base model with automatic. (Incidentally, the other dealers said I was crazy, that they couldn't sell me a car at that price.) Anyways, the advertising dealer agreed to do the deal at the $18,500 price, but then jacked me around on finding one in the color that I wanted. After letting them do that to me for about a week, and not having my phone call returned, I called a dealer in Nederland, TX (near Beaumont). I told the guy who answered what color and options I wanted and that I wanted to pay $18,500. He said he didn't have the car, but would get it. Within a day or two he had it (I believe he got it from a dealer in N. Texas). I went there and bought it. (Beaumont/Nederland is only 80 miles away.) Smooth transaction.
Remember, these guys are selling Hyundais, not $150,000 Porsche Turbos. In other words, there are lots of dealers, so don't let one jerk you around.
I bought mine in Dallas a month ago and got the same configuration Limited with Touring Package (3rd row) for 23,800. From what I read, it seems like there is now an additional $500 rebate from the $1000 one we got. We also had received the $500 rebate from going through Hyundai financing - which we plan to refinance in 2 months time.
So it seems like you are paying more than you should. You should at least get $500 off if not $1k.
I got a question for you guys that did the Hyundai financing in order to get that extra $500 off. I'm prepared to pay cash for when I get our Santa Fe, but if I can get another $500 off then I'm not averse to going the financing route if I can then turn around and pay it off within a month or two.
Go ahead and finance it and then pay it off when you get your first monthly statement, it even tells you on the statement what your net payoff will be, we did that with no penalties or extra cost, it may take them a few extra weeks to send you your title though, as it did us. For the people like us that can do this, Hyundai loses.
Hi all -- I live in Queens NY and just got home with my new Ltd FWD w/Touring, Premium, Floor Mats and Cargo Net in the BEST color, Natural Khaki. Price was $24,700 before TTL. This includes $2000 rebate and dealer markdown of $850 below invoice. Used FitzMall as negotiating yardstick. I "wanted" dealer to match the Delivered Value price, but only got to within $220. BUT, Fitzmall didn't have my color/combo in stock, so I feel the $220 was a wash by getting exactly what I wanted. (FitzMall will not get or locate a car for you at their Internet prices. You gotta buy from inventory.)
Dealer was Nemet on Hillside Ave in Jamaica and the buying experience was First Class. My salesman was low key, knowledgeable and honest. My fears of dealing with a "budget" dealer (I'm used to Audi and Saab) were unfounded with these guys.
This SUV was for the wife trading in a '02 Mazda MPV. She saw the new Santa Fe and thought it was a Lexus. I told her it was and we would put it high on our list. I brought her to see a '08 Subaru Tribeca first (I really like the value there) and then brought her to the "Lexus" dealership. She loved the Lexus Santa Fe and quickly declared the search was over. To tell you how clueless she is regarding cars, she had no idea it wasn't a Lexus until I fessed up and showed her the Hyundai web site that evening. :P
To answer a question above, if your paying cash, get the HMFC $500 rebate and pay of the not at first statement. You'll pay one month interest on 7.3% loan, but for me it was a net gain of $425. Not too shabby on a Lexus!
Just checked the Hyundaiusa.com site, and they are still showing the $1000 rebate, but Edmunds.com shows the newer $1500 rebate which goes until Oct. 1. Gee, I wish I had thought of doing the financing for another $500 rebate and then paying it off instead of doing a cash deal right off the bat. We would have had a $2500 rebate (incl. military rebate).
Been driving my new Santa Fe for 5 days and LOVE it so far! I just ordered the Weathertech floorliners for 1st and 2nd row to keep my light gray carpet from getting dirty. Got them for $159.90 at Autobarn.com ($5 off with SEP07 coupon code)
I have a Limited AWD with the base (non-Infinity) audio system. While it's not too bad for a base factory system, I wanted something with more punch. I considered adding a subwoofer but was very hesitant to give up the storage space to accommodate one. I ended up having the speakers replaced with Polks (component in the front doors, single-driver in the rear). I also had an external power amp installed; it fits nicely under the front passenger seat. The improvement in sound quality is significant. While it doesn't have the "slam" of a high-powered subwoofer, the bass is now quite adequate and very clean. Mids and highs are much improved. Overall, the sound quality is now very good, especially on XM's Watercolors, Classics, and Pops. Visually, it all looks stock since the head unit wasn't changed and the new speakers are housed behind the original factory grates.
I know what you mean about the brakes. The pedal has a "squishy" feel with quite a bit of travel. I don't know if mine has improved in 4 months of ownership or if I've just gotten used to it but it doesn't feel at all objectionable now. Separate from pedal feel, stopping power on mine is good.
After 4 months and 3500 miles, I'm extremely happy with my Santa Fe. Hope this helps. Good luck to you.
I have an offer of $22,000 plus TT&L for a five speed AWD GLS in Blue Silver (NSRP of $23,900). Is this a fair price? Seems like everyone here is getting at least $3,000 off MSRP including the $1,000 reabte for Santa Fe GLS. Can I do better? Dealer was somplaining that this month has been very slow...
Any input would be appreciated. I'm in San Antonio, Texas.
With an M.S.R.P. of $23,900 (actually, it would be exactlu $23,935 assuming that it has XM and carpeted mats), invoice is $23,009 including destination. You should be able to buy it for somewhere between $500 and $1000 UNDER invoice, LESS any applicable rebates. If the number they gave you is BEFORE backing out rebate(s), it's a very good deal. If not, then they're essentially trying to sell you the car at invoice which in today's market is too high.
I suspect that the car has been sitting for awhile since there's not much demand for a GLS with manual transmission. If I was in your shoes, I'd offer them $21,000 LESS rebates and see what happens. Even if you could buy it for $22,500 LESS rebates, it would be a deal worth taking IMO.
saabski, we just bought our new Santa Fe here in San Antonio. At Red McCombs the internet manager would only give us $200 under dealer invoice before applying any rebate. We ended up buying our FWD Limited at World Car Hyundai at I35& Toepperwein (NE) for $600 under dealer invoice before applying rebates of $2000. Seems they have a lot of GLS's on the lot. I'd be happy to give you our salesman's name if you want. My goal was to get a deal of 84% of MSRP.....ended up getting 85%, which was $4,081 off of MSRP. See my previous posts. Good luck!
I would also like to do this - I'm just worried that they try to screw you during the financing portion, that they'll have slipped something in there that I don't catch. Why must it all be so icky to deal with buying a car?!
I hear what you're saying Zeb. I'm just planning on making sure that the total finance amount is EXACTLY the price we agree on. Not a penny more. It really shouldn't be this grueling to purchase a car...
Of course, it works both ways. The extra financing rebate was never intended to be given to buyers who will pay off the loan in one month. For every dealer who tries to screw a customer, there's a customer who tries to save money by beating the system.
Unless there is a pre-payment penalty in the contract, I see no problem in paying a loan back after a few weeks. Actually, I was offered exactly that by a dealer. He said that he would only ask me to keep the loan for 2 months, after that I'd be free to pay it off ( something to do with his commission. I wasn't paying much attention as I was not interested in any car loans ). That shows me that dealers know perfectly well that some customers will pay off their loans much sooner than expected but, obviously, in the long run they still make money or they wouldn't offer financing.
I don't think paying a loan off really constitutes as trying to 'beat the system'. I know they make money off people who finance, and that's all well and good, but you should still be able to pay it off if you want to and get the rebate. Same thing with credit cards - the companies offer incentives to have their cards - if customers pay it off every month, the company may lose a bit on those people but there are plenty who still rack up $$ and don't pay it off - it all evens out. Bottom line is car dealerships are a tangled web that oftentimes are trying to screw you - it leaves a bad taste in many people's mouths.
What dealer(s) are you talking with? I don't live in Houston anymore but did buy my 01 Santa Fe from Hub Hyundai on 290. My folks who still live in Houston bought their Sonata from Champion(?) on the Gulf Freeway across from Almeda Mall. At any rate, I just bought a new 07 SF Limited here in Denver and found that most of the internet sales managers are pretty easy to work with...it's just the average salesman who catches you when you walk up that can be icky to work with.
With the Hyundai financing rebate, nobody is trying to beat the system by paying their loan off early. Hyundai understands full well there are folks that plan to do exactly that. If Hyundai was intent on stopping a buyer from paying off their loan quickly it would be duly noted in any conditions of the rebate and financial terms. Hyundai is betting most buyers will not pay the loan off early.
I wasn't suggesting that there's anything illegal or unethical in taking the rebate and then immediately paying off the loan. My comment was in response to someone saying that buying a car is an "icky" process. Just like some dealers will try anything to make a buck, buyers will do anything to save a buck. The person who accepts the $500 rebate in exchange for taking Hyundai's financing and then pays off the loan when they get the first statement is beating the system; the "system" was designed to allow the $500 to be made back in interest charges. My guess is that Hyundai Financial Services is paying the $500. When they only get back $10 in interest because the loan is paid back in 30 days, they lose.
Well, the "system" was designed to sell cars and rebates are just a part of that overall plan, don't kid yourself Hyundai isn't losing anything. Every vehicle Hyundai sells has that rebate built into the price every customer pays. If that $500 keeps a buyer from going over to the competition Hyundai wins.
It is variable based on location. In my area (Pennsylvania) I can get a $1500 rebate and a $500 HMFC rebate and a $500 owner loyalty rebate on an 07 Santa Fe right now.
I believe so. Several places that I have talked to have mentioned the $1500 PLUS another $500 for financing.
I forgot to mention on my price quote above, it also included XM (I don't really need that but that's all that's available).
Colors are: Platinum sage Silver Black Steel grey
anyone have any input on those? The dealership is about an hour away so I want to make sure it's a decent deal before heading out - the courtesy of the person I've been talking with has meant a lot and I'd like to give my business to someone like that if it's a decent deal.
Regarding trade in - I have a 1996 Nissan Sentra - should I mention that via email to see what they'd give me or wait till I'm there?
And one more (sorry!) - I was undecided between SE and Limited because of leather (thought it would be good because I have a dog and baby), although I don't find leather very comfortable. He said they could put leather in an SE for about $1000, which would save me about $1000 instead of getting the Limited. Good deal?
Zeb, If $21,274 is the dealer invoice minus the $2000 in rebates, you should be able to do much better than that. You should get something more off of the invoice. We got $600 under invoice before applying rebates. Others have done much better than that.
Thanks - yes, that was the price including the $2000 rebate. The guy said it was $400 below invoice (so I guess it isn't actually). Edmunds lists the invoice (incl. destination) as $23,524 (incl the floor mats, etc.. that comes with it), and the dealership is listing it as $23,274. Edmunds TMV price on this is $22,240 (not including the $500 financing, which would bring it down to $21,740). My price was $21,274, so it sounded in the ballpark to me. What should I do now - just email some other dealerships and ask for their best prices? Should I mention what the best price I have so far is or not?
The deal you're considering is $250 under invoice. It should be very easy to get them dowm another $250 - $750.
FWIW, I'm betting that the Fitzmall price includes the $1500 "standard" rebate but not the additional $500 financing rebate. If so, that puts them at $658 under invoice, pretty much exactly where I'd expect for this car.
If you can buy the car for $500 - $1000 under invoice (before rebates) and it's configured exactly the way you want it (colors, options), my suggestion is to go for it. You'd be getting a good deal. Don't be one of those who continues to wait for a better deal (which will always come along) and never ends up getting the car; buy it and start enjoying it!
A couple of other things...
In your other post you didn't mention interior colors. I found that this can make a huge difference. We ended up liking the black and gray interiors a lot but didn't care at all for the beige. It's all a matter of personal taste. A cool thing about Hyundai is that they offer more than one interior color with many of their exterior colors.
Regarding XM, you'll be glad that you have it. I have it in my Limited AWD and love it. It has much better sound quality than it does in my Corvette. Trust me, you won't regret having it.
If you're on the fence between an SE and a Limited, go for the Limited. The leather seats are GREAT. Perhaps more importantly, the Limited also includes great stuff such as heated seats, power driver's seat, dual-zone auto climate control (works perfectly), HomeLink, and a great-looking rear spoiler (above the rear window).
Thanks for the help. Should I be factoring in the price that this guy gave me included the floor mats, cargo mat, and first aid kit? I know those are all negotiable but it helps to be comparing apples with apples. I guess I could remove the price of those from the price he gave me to see what 'invoice' would be and go from there.
I'm ready to buy, so I'm not going to hang around waiting for that better deal, but I would like to get it down a bit more like you suggest.
So if I could get him from $23,374 down to about $22,500, I'd be doing well I guess. Hmm, we'll see.
Thanks again, -Sarah
p.s. Those other things on the Limited do sound nice, but I will still probably go with the SE. $2000 is $2000 and that's a lot on top of what I'm already considering spending.
Zeb, I agree with mpuzach. Also, print the deal from Fitzmall.com and show the dealers you have done your homework and know what a fair deal is. Don't be afraid to walk away. After we walked away, our salesman called me the next day and asked me what I wanted to pay.
We too were going to go with the basic SE, but my husband wanted the power seat. Instead of getting an SE with the premium package, we decided to get the basic Limited with all the other niceties mentioned by mpuzach.
Zeb, just read your last post. When we were looking at basic SE's, we were shooting for $20,600 plus TTL, which was 84% of an MSRP of $24,610.
1. E-mail FIRST with trade-in estimate based on your evaluation of car condidtion. Let them know you are looking for a "basis" to see if they are in the area of other trade values you received.
2. Negotiate down the SF price by $300-$600 more at the dealership. Use the trade as part of negotiaton. Get them to come up in trade if unwilling to lower the price. Have a check book showing in a shirt pocket or just put it down on the desk by you. They'll jump if you can convince them you have other offers.
3. Avoid getting aftermarket leather in SE. It's usually a leather cover sewn on over existing seats. No good over time.
We are looking for a 2007 Pearl White, Limited, with Ultimate package.
Questions-
1. I don't see a lot of people here buying the ultimate package. Is there any reason for this? We want it, because we want the nice stereo, and the dvd player for our daughter.
2. What would be 85% of MSRP on this vehicle?
3. How is 25,805 for it?
4. What are the actual rebates right now? We see a lot of different numbers.
The invoice price of $23,524 includes the mats, cargo mat, and first aid kit. It also includes destination. Personally, I'd offer $22,500. If they ended up coming down to $23,000, I'd buy the car and not look back. You'll have gotten a very good deal on a great SUV. Good luck.
He is now offering the steel grey for $22,842. Not sure about that color. I may go check them out this weekend - at least I know now to shoot between $22,500 - $23,000.
Can't answer your question about the ultimate package. We just sold our van with all the "kid entertainment" stuff because we are beyond that stage now.
First find the MSRP on the vehicle you want....all available on Edmunds. Then multiply the MSRP X .85 Some folks say just to work with dealer invoice, but this worked for me, as I was comparing prices on Fitzmall.com, which were mostly 83-85% of MSRP. I suppose you could do the same with the dealer invoice, but it would be a different percentage.
As far as I know rebates are: $1500 standard (not sure if this includes the GLS) $500 active duty military $500 if you finance with Hyundai $500 owner loyalty (I guess for previous Hyundai owners) $400 education rebate (I've heard some folks mention this, as they got it for getting a degree in the past 24 months)
The rebate for owner loyalty is there if you also own another Hyundai at the time of purchase, you have to present your other Hyundai`s registration card to the finance dept. in order to qualify. Interestingly enough, the rebate for owners loyalty is $1000.00 if you are purchasing a Hyundai Azera.
Having bought from Fitzmall a couple of weeks ago, I can tell you that their prices include all rebates, including the $500 financing rebate. If you don't take the financing, you have to add $500 to their price.
Well...before I bought I specifically told my dealer that I wanted either Dark Cherry Red or Steel Gray. As it turned out, he had an inbound Steel Gray one due in a week or two that was configured exactly how I wanted it, i.e. Limited AWD, Premium Package, and carpeted mats. (It also had the very important, $20 first aid kit!) I had not yet seen the color on a Santa Fe since it wasn't available until mid-year and my dealer had not yet received any.
The dealer phoned me the day the car arrived. I immediately drove there to look at it and loved it. The next day I bought it. Tomorrow will be exactly 4 months since driving it home and it's been a great SUV. The one I bought has the black leather interior and it looks great with the Steel Gray. A gray interior is also available with Steel Gray and it also looks great. (Beige is not available with Steel Gray.) No matter which interior color is in the one you're looking at, it should look very sharp.
BTW, Steel Gray is a metallic color so it glistens nicely in the sun.
Is the 85% of MSRP before rebates or after? MSRP = 24,745, 85% = 21,033 - should that be the goal after rebates, then + TTL? I can't believe it would be before rebates?
Thanks for the opinion on steel grey - my hesitation is that it seems a popular color right now and I am hoping to get something that doesn't age (like silver, even though I don't love silver, it's timeless).
If one color has been on the lot for a year, and a different one for just a month, can I assume I should go for the one that has spent less time on the lot?
Gosh, so many questions - hopefully I can get this all wrapped up soon!
Does anyone know when the 2008 Santa Fes will start showing up? It seems that they have been "coming soon" for a while now, and "coming in September" was what we have also heard, and the month is nearly half over now, but no 2008s.
Not that I will be buying one - just got my 2007 - but I wondered what the new prices would be.
I bought a silver for much the same reason - not my absolute fave, but I like it a lot and it will "age" well (unlike those metallic orange cars, for example - not Hyundais - that already look very dated).
With regard to how long the "color" has spent on the lot, it can be a good buy because the dealer may really want to get it off the lot - i.e., sold. I would not buy a car solely because it has been on the lot a short while - there are a lot more important factors than that.
A nice thing about Steel Gray is that since it didn't become available on Santa Fes until mid-year, there won't be nearly as many of them as there will be Silver. Even assuming that Steel Gray is offered in 2008, history shows that more silver ones will be ordered than Steel Gray ones. My suggestion - look at them both side-by-side and choose the one you like better. Neither will go out of style. Also, pay attention to the interior color. I think both the gray and black interiors look great; you may prefer one over the other.
As far as other selection criteria, I suggest that you consider:
Miles on the odometer. All other things being equal, I prefer one that hasn't been test-driven or used as a demo. I was fortunate to buy one that had just arrived the day before I bought it; no one had driven it.
XM. Earlier-built Santa Fes did not come with it. I believe it was January, 2007 when they began including it. The window sticker clearly specifies XM on cars in which it's installed. It's a great thing to have.
Here's a big one: Open a front door and see whether or not the front overhead (map) lights come on. On earlier-built Santa Fes they do not come on by simply opening a door. The change to make them come on was made mid-year. There is a factory-paid retrofit for Santa Fes built before the change but you'll have to request it and many dealers don't know anything about it.
If you find one in the right colors, with the right options, with XM, front overhead lights that illuminate when you open a front door, and few or no miles, GO FOR IT!
Comments
I started at Huffines as they are closest to me. There sales people where REAL bad (am in sales myself). No follow-up calls, slow to respond to emails. When I showed up, they would not even counter my offer.
I had stopped by Allen Samuels a few weeks back and decided to re-visit them. My experience was similar to your - FANTASTIC salesman (Joe O'Neal), really made me feel good about the transaction. As far as price, I got a good deal. They essentially matched Fitzmall.
LTD, touring pkg, premium pkg, pinstripe, and window tinting
MSRP was 29300
Settled at 24750 after rebates + TTL
Kicker - they didnot have the vehicle in stock (surprising for their inventory). They did find one close by (color issue) and are trailering to me. GREAT SERVICE and in my opinion worth the $1-200 I might have saved somewhere else.
Financing rebate was extra $500 but rate was cruddy, have been advised by others to pay it for a month or two then have my credit union (5%) transfer the note.
MY last piece of advice back to the board - the inspection sticker (TX new cars) is good for 2 years. The dealership puts it on the car when they arrive. Now you know how long it has been sitting on the lot.
Thanks for everyones help and advice
Regards
Sammy
1. Is the rebate $1000 or $1500?
2. What kind of things are people able to get thrown in when negotiating? (oil changes, mats, etc.?)
3. I didn't care for the base stereo on the test drive, but the upgrade is too much. What are people doing about this?
4. Does anybody have comments on the brakes because they seemed mediocre to me?
Well, I appreciate the help.
Remember, these guys are selling Hyundais, not $150,000 Porsche Turbos. In other words, there are lots of dealers, so don't let one jerk you around.
So it seems like you are paying more than you should. You should at least get $500 off if not $1k.
Are there any penalties for doing this?
Dealer was Nemet on Hillside Ave in Jamaica and the buying experience was First Class. My salesman was low key, knowledgeable and honest. My fears of dealing with a "budget" dealer (I'm used to Audi and Saab) were unfounded with these guys.
This SUV was for the wife trading in a '02 Mazda MPV. She saw the new Santa Fe and thought it was a Lexus. I told her it was and we would put it high on our list. I brought her to see a '08 Subaru Tribeca first (I really like the value there) and then brought her to the "Lexus" dealership. She loved the Lexus Santa Fe and quickly declared the search was over. To tell you how clueless she is regarding cars, she had no idea it wasn't a Lexus until I fessed up and showed her the Hyundai web site that evening. :P
To answer a question above, if your paying cash, get the HMFC $500 rebate and pay of the not at first statement. You'll pay one month interest on 7.3% loan, but for me it was a net gain of $425. Not too shabby on a Lexus!
Been driving my new Santa Fe for 5 days and LOVE it so far! I just ordered the Weathertech floorliners for 1st and 2nd row to keep my light gray carpet from getting dirty. Got them for $159.90 at Autobarn.com ($5 off with SEP07 coupon code)
I have a Limited AWD with the base (non-Infinity) audio system. While it's not too bad for a base factory system, I wanted something with more punch. I considered adding a subwoofer but was very hesitant to give up the storage space to accommodate one. I ended up having the speakers replaced with Polks (component in the front doors, single-driver in the rear). I also had an external power amp installed; it fits nicely under the front passenger seat. The improvement in sound quality is significant. While it doesn't have the "slam" of a high-powered subwoofer, the bass is now quite adequate and very clean. Mids and highs are much improved. Overall, the sound quality is now very good, especially on XM's Watercolors, Classics, and Pops. Visually, it all looks stock since the head unit wasn't changed and the new speakers are housed behind the original factory grates.
I know what you mean about the brakes. The pedal has a "squishy" feel with quite a bit of travel. I don't know if mine has improved in 4 months of ownership or if I've just gotten used to it but it doesn't feel at all objectionable now. Separate from pedal feel, stopping power on mine is good.
After 4 months and 3500 miles, I'm extremely happy with my Santa Fe. Hope this helps. Good luck to you.
I have an offer of $22,000 plus TT&L for a five speed AWD GLS in Blue Silver (NSRP of $23,900). Is this a fair price? Seems like everyone here is getting at least $3,000 off MSRP including the $1,000 reabte for Santa Fe GLS. Can I do better? Dealer was somplaining that this month has been very slow...
Any input would be appreciated. I'm in San Antonio, Texas.
I suspect that the car has been sitting for awhile since there's not much demand for a GLS with manual transmission. If I was in your shoes, I'd offer them $21,000 LESS rebates and see what happens. Even if you could buy it for $22,500 LESS rebates, it would be a deal worth taking IMO.
Why must it all be so icky to deal with buying a car?!
Bottom line is car dealerships are a tangled web that oftentimes are trying to screw you - it leaves a bad taste in many people's mouths.
Good luck with your search and purchase.
I have been getting quotes, and I wondered if you could let me know what you think of the following:
2007 Santa Fe SE FWD
-floor mats
-first aid kid
-cargo mat
$23,274 (Edmunds TMV price is $23,740)
Minus $1500
Minus $500 (financing)
= $21,274
Fitz has $21,366 (not sure if exactly the same rebates were applied to that or not though)
Good deal? The guy was so much nicer to deal with (only over the phone so far) than others, but I still want to get the best deal!
I forgot to mention on my price quote above, it also included XM (I don't really need that but that's all that's available).
Colors are:
Platinum sage
Silver
Black
Steel grey
anyone have any input on those? The dealership is about an hour away so I want to make sure it's a decent deal before heading out - the courtesy of the person I've been talking with has meant a lot and I'd like to give my business to someone like that if it's a decent deal.
Regarding trade in - I have a 1996 Nissan Sentra - should I mention that via email to see what they'd give me or wait till I'm there?
And one more (sorry!) - I was undecided between SE and Limited because of leather (thought it would be good because I have a dog and baby), although I don't find leather very comfortable. He said they could put leather in an SE for about $1000, which would save me about $1000 instead of getting the Limited. Good deal?
If $21,274 is the dealer invoice minus the $2000 in rebates, you should be able to do much better than that. You should get something more off of the invoice. We got $600 under invoice before applying rebates. Others have done much better than that.
Edmunds lists the invoice (incl. destination) as $23,524 (incl the floor mats, etc.. that comes with it), and the dealership is listing it as $23,274. Edmunds TMV price on this is $22,240 (not including the $500 financing, which would bring it down to $21,740). My price was $21,274, so it sounded in the ballpark to me.
What should I do now - just email some other dealerships and ask for their best prices? Should I mention what the best price I have so far is or not?
Thanks again - ergh, I hate this!
-Sarah
M.S.R.P. - $24,745
Invoice - $23,524
The deal you're considering is $250 under invoice. It should be very easy to get them dowm another $250 - $750.
FWIW, I'm betting that the Fitzmall price includes the $1500 "standard" rebate but not the additional $500 financing rebate. If so, that puts them at $658 under invoice, pretty much exactly where I'd expect for this car.
If you can buy the car for $500 - $1000 under invoice (before rebates) and it's configured exactly the way you want it (colors, options), my suggestion is to go for it. You'd be getting a good deal. Don't be one of those who continues to wait for a better deal (which will always come along) and never ends up getting the car; buy it and start enjoying it!
A couple of other things...
In your other post you didn't mention interior colors. I found that this can make a huge difference. We ended up liking the black and gray interiors a lot but didn't care at all for the beige. It's all a matter of personal taste. A cool thing about Hyundai is that they offer more than one interior color with many of their exterior colors.
Regarding XM, you'll be glad that you have it. I have it in my Limited AWD and love it. It has much better sound quality than it does in my Corvette. Trust me, you won't regret having it.
If you're on the fence between an SE and a Limited, go for the Limited. The leather seats are GREAT. Perhaps more importantly, the Limited also includes great stuff such as heated seats, power driver's seat, dual-zone auto climate control (works perfectly), HomeLink, and a great-looking rear spoiler (above the rear window).
I'm ready to buy, so I'm not going to hang around waiting for that better deal, but I would like to get it down a bit more like you suggest.
So if I could get him from $23,374 down to about $22,500, I'd be doing well I guess. Hmm, we'll see.
Thanks again,
-Sarah
p.s. Those other things on the Limited do sound nice, but I will still probably go with the SE. $2000 is $2000 and that's a lot on top of what I'm already considering spending.
We too were going to go with the basic SE, but my husband wanted the power seat. Instead of getting an SE with the premium package, we decided to get the basic Limited with all the other niceties mentioned by mpuzach.
Zeb, just read your last post. When we were looking at basic SE's, we were shooting for $20,600 plus TTL, which was 84% of an MSRP of $24,610.
1. E-mail FIRST with trade-in estimate based on your evaluation of car condidtion. Let them know you are looking for a "basis" to see if they are in the area of other trade values you received.
2. Negotiate down the SF price by $300-$600 more at the dealership. Use the trade as part of negotiaton. Get them to come up in trade if unwilling to lower the price. Have a check book showing in a shirt pocket or just put it down on the desk by you. They'll jump if you can convince them you have other offers.
3. Avoid getting aftermarket leather in SE. It's usually a leather cover sewn on over existing seats. No good over time.
Questions-
1. I don't see a lot of people here buying the ultimate package. Is there any reason for this? We want it, because we want the nice stereo, and the dvd player for our daughter.
2. What would be 85% of MSRP on this vehicle?
3. How is 25,805 for it?
4. What are the actual rebates right now? We see a lot of different numbers.
Thanks.
Thanks,
-Sarah
thanks again,
-sarah
Can't answer your question about the ultimate package. We just sold our van with all the "kid entertainment" stuff because we are beyond that stage now.
First find the MSRP on the vehicle you want....all available on Edmunds. Then multiply the MSRP X .85
Some folks say just to work with dealer invoice, but this worked for me, as I was comparing prices on Fitzmall.com, which were mostly 83-85% of MSRP. I suppose you could do the same with the dealer invoice, but it would be a different percentage.
As far as I know rebates are:
$1500 standard (not sure if this includes the GLS)
$500 active duty military
$500 if you finance with Hyundai
$500 owner loyalty (I guess for previous Hyundai owners)
$400 education rebate (I've heard some folks mention this, as they got it for getting a degree in the past 24 months)
Chris
The dealer phoned me the day the car arrived. I immediately drove there to look at it and loved it. The next day I bought it. Tomorrow will be exactly 4 months since driving it home and it's been a great SUV. The one I bought has the black leather interior and it looks great with the Steel Gray. A gray interior is also available with Steel Gray and it also looks great. (Beige is not available with Steel Gray.) No matter which interior color is in the one you're looking at, it should look very sharp.
BTW, Steel Gray is a metallic color so it glistens nicely in the sun.
MSRP = 24,745, 85% = 21,033 - should that be the goal after rebates, then + TTL? I can't believe it would be before rebates?
thanks!
-Sarah
If one color has been on the lot for a year, and a different one for just a month, can I assume I should go for the one that has spent less time on the lot?
Gosh, so many questions - hopefully I can get this all wrapped up soon!
Not that I will be buying one - just got my 2007 - but I wondered what the new prices would be.
Chris
With regard to how long the "color" has spent on the lot, it can be a good buy because the dealer may really want to get it off the lot - i.e., sold. I would not buy a car solely because it has been on the lot a short while - there are a lot more important factors than that.
As far as other selection criteria, I suggest that you consider:
Miles on the odometer. All other things being equal, I prefer one that hasn't been test-driven or used as a demo. I was fortunate to buy one that had just arrived the day before I bought it; no one had driven it.
XM. Earlier-built Santa Fes did not come with it. I believe it was January, 2007 when they began including it. The window sticker clearly specifies XM on cars in which it's installed. It's a great thing to have.
Here's a big one: Open a front door and see whether or not the front overhead (map) lights come on. On earlier-built Santa Fes they do not come on by simply opening a door. The change to make them come on was made mid-year. There is a factory-paid retrofit for Santa Fes built before the change but you'll have to request it and many dealers don't know anything about it.
If you find one in the right colors, with the right options, with XM, front overhead lights that illuminate when you open a front door, and few or no miles, GO FOR IT!