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Mazda Protegé

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  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Check Edmund's pricing tool.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi - mazdafun gives you great advice. You can start here: 2002 Mazda Protege.

    Let us know if you have more questions, and keep us posted!
  • rutger3rutger3 Member Posts: 361
    Okay, if the private party price is $8400 and the retail price $10,300, what would be a fair offer. Given the state of the used car market, is somewhere in the middle more appropriate? The problem is if I pay full retail for a used car, then trade it in 6 months later, there would be a huge depreciation hit. What are people paying dealers for used cars these days?
  • xomlexomle Member Posts: 2
    My 99 mazda protege es needs a new "front exhaust pipe" (aka Header pipe?) and a new cad conv. i think i found both online (for way less than my mechanic) how do i triple check that it is the right part? ex: needs to be for a dual cam. any advice would be helpful

    thank you
  • karena8627karena8627 Member Posts: 1
    My husband just purchased a 95 Mazda Protege.

    The person we bought it from is out of town for the next 2 days and we were wanting to do some maintenence on it under the hood....

    The problem is. We cannot get hood up. The guy we bought it from yesterday had no problems opening it up, but we cannot open it. There is no owners manuel.

    We are releasing the hood release from inside and looking for a latch under the hood that we cannot seem to locate. Help please. I know its something simple, but I guess we are missing it.

    Thanks
    K
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    It should be just to the driver side under the front edge of the hood. You need to push it towards the passenger side to release the safety latch. You may have to lift the hood at the same time if the springs are worn or not adjusted correctly. If you run your fingers under the edge of the hood after pulling the release inside the car, you should be able to find it by feel. If not, get your head under the level of the hood and look for it.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Did all the Pros get recycled? Except mine.

    fowler3
  • cptfirecptfire Member Posts: 1
    Just had my Protege for 6 months and wanted to share my thoughts

    Likes
    $1000.00 cheaper than a civic or corolla with more features
    Handling is unreal for an econobox
    Solid Feel
    Still a good looking vehicle after 4 yrs
    Can find a comfortable seating postion
    Excellent quality looking interior
    Good gas mileage
    So far mechanically sound (38,000 miles)
    Good passing power on the highway

    Dislike (petty)

    No door lock/unlock function on the passenger door
    No lighted vanity mirrors
    No cup holders in back seat.
    Not the strongest acceleration
    Sometimes the transmission seems to be guessing
    on which gear to kick into

    Again the dislikes are minor, I am quite happy with my purchase.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    A national news magazine is looking to interview college students who has “pimped” out his/her ride Have you tricked out your car with big rims, outrageous stereos, wild paint jobs, spoilers, ground effects, neon lights, nitrous, the works . Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Friday, June 9, 2006 by 5:00 PM PT/8:00 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and the make and model of the car you’ve “pimped” out.

    Thanks,
    Chintan Talati
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Just check in less frequently.

    My Pro is still going strong. Some of the plastic trim bits at the bottom edges of the door windows are cracking. The front ones look easy to replace, but I have to remove the glass in the rear doors. It's only cosmetic. Maybe I'll learn to live with them, but probably not. :)
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    My Pro is still going strong. Some of the plastic trim bits at the bottom edges of the door windows are cracking

    Good to hear from you! Hopefully the cracking is happening on your 99 Protege and not your 03 P5. I've been using Armor All to preserve the plastic in my 02 P5; so far it's good as new.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    No plastic trim troubles on the '03 P5 yet (other than the side mirror that got knocked off and since replaced under warranty).

    The front part looks easy to replace. The rear door part involves removing the window glass too.....hmmm. I may wait for it to break down further and really irk me before I tackle them.
  • flatlander2flatlander2 Member Posts: 2
    the lower passenger compartment got flooded and now the car won't start. the automatic seat belts won't activate and there is no power to the starter. all the other electronics seem to work. i've discovered a circut board underneath the drivers seat with a wire bundle into it that appears to have fried. what is this board? it has a part number on the case but i can't seem to locate what it is, or what it's function is.BR70 67 780. Is there an aftermarket source for this? Is it likely to be my electrical problem. Thanks for your help.
  • civiletticiviletti Member Posts: 86
    My '99es now has 58k miles and runs like a champ. I've had some of the typical minor problems:

    buzzes in the dash
    warping rear door panels
    disintegrating door lock covers
    road noise
    CD player shorts out

    But the only problem that has cost money was a vacuum leak in the intake manifold, which was too minor to cause any drivability probems.

    Just about to install a set of struts from tirerack.
    The alpine CD and Polk rear speakers are a great improvement over stock.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I traded my 2000 ES (same car) for a 2005 Mazda3 in April 2005. It had 91,100 miles on it then. I never experienced any of the problems you reported -- except maybe road noise, but the car was always relatively noisy on the highway due to the low-profile tires -- so I don't consider that a problem per se.

    The only thing I ever had to do to the car was replace some strut bushings in the front at about 80,000 miles. It was a $300 job that was covered by my extended warranty, and I had to pay a $100 deductible. So, $100 in repairs in 91,100 miles. Not bad!

    Meade
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    ...just representative of the fact that we all live in different climates, drive on different kinds of roads, have different driving habits, etc. etc.

    My report: 2000 ES, approx. 55,000 miles

    replaced under warranty:

    --leaky radiator
    --busted seat belt latch thingy

    customer pay:

    --stabilizer links

    And yes, I have the warped rear door panels, too. Door locks and such have been fine, though, so far.

    YMMV, of course. :shades:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    It's been a while since you've shared the sage advice, Meade, but you've come back stronger than ever. Glad to see you back, amigo.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I've been back for several days -- my first posts since January. Even Pat had the audacity to ignore that I was back -- that's OK, Pat, I know you love me anyway. :)

    Hey Dale -- got a question. I've read several posts about the warped rear door panel thing. What exactly is that? Are some people finding the actual interior of the door pulling away, into the inside of the car? If so, how far away does it warp? If that's the case, shouldn't that be fairly fixable since the door panel is nothing more than thick fibrous material (aka "cardboard") with vinyl glued to it?

    Glad I never saw that little problem -- you'd think I would, with all the humidity we have down here in Virginia.

    Meade
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    ES 2001 approx 46,000 miles. No problems not one, not even a squeak. Still looks good inside and out. Garaged and mostly highway miles
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    I've read several posts about the warped rear door panel thing. What exactly is that? Are some people finding the actual interior of the door pulling away, into the inside of the car? If so, how far away does it warp? If that's the case, shouldn't that be fairly fixable since the door panel is nothing more than thick fibrous material (aka "cardboard") with vinyl glued to it?

    Right, the door panel is pulling away from the door, and a gap is forming where it meets the window.

    How far: not terribly, so far. In fact, if you didn't know to look for it, a passenger sitting in the back seat might not even notice it.

    Easy fix: Well, I guess I'm thinking that because it's fibrous cardboardous material, that it might be a little hard to unwarp. (Mine has the upholstery glued to it, not vinyl, where it's warping.)

    I mean, I suppose I could get it super-damp, try to squash it back into shape, and then hold it there while it dries, but that all seems a little imprecise and risky to me. I think I remember reading somewhere sometime that the only fix is to replace the panels.

    Chow-chi, are you out there? Seems to me you had some thoughts on this.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Beat the heat (going to need to do that here in the East!) tonight and stop in for a bit of car chat!

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Just not as often lately. Been pretty worn out from work.

    The top sections of the rear panels appear to be molded from wood chips and fiber. Thus, they are prone to warping from absorbing and losing moisture content. They seem to warp more as the weather gets drier during the winter. They used to go back down to "normal" when spring came around, but mine are now noticeably (from outside the door) warped even during the hot, humid summers in Ohio. The rear ends seem to be raised higher than the front ends. I suppose I could use some tape to try to bring the edge down when I have the windows rolled down, but it's not that big a deal. Besides, we have a "garage" cat now (came home with my wife one night after a rehearsal), and I don't want him sleeping in my car.

    I'm more bothered by the wear on the trim pieces on the outsides of the doors at the base of each window. The surfaces are getting pitted and the rubber-like edge that rubs against the windows is starting to crack and fall to pieces. They don't look that difficult to replace, though according to instructions, I would have to remove the windows in either the front or rear doors to replace these (I forgot....good thing I downloaded those). I should order a set soon, before they get scarce and expensive.

    Even with these little problems (hey, my car's over 7.5 years old!), I still really love it. :blush: And that nagging clogged EGR valve finally cleared. I think using Shell gas actually helped clean it out, so I try to get a tankful every third or fourth fill-up.

    It's good to see some of the ol' gang still here, and I never thought that Meade ever really left. :)
  • mlgbmlgb Member Posts: 4
    I posted when I first bought by car under lgb (had a few issues with clunking and squealing). I still have my baby, with 95000 miles on it. Just took it on a trip from LA to Zion, Monument Valley and GC in May. No problems even took it off road in MV park. Crossing my fingers that nothing would cut up the tires though.

    Pros: Front seats so comfy for me, lots of adjusments
    Rear seat room, trunk capacity and configuration amazing for little car.
    Peppy engine when passing or getting on freeway.
    Tight handling and fun to drive.
    Reliable, only repair beyond maintenance was an alternator last year. (Check engine light came on and car stalled out when I got 100 feet from home).
    No timing belt replacement needed at 60K.
    Paint has held up well but then we have no salt here.

    Cons: Still hard to shift in low gears, have to feel like I'm slipping the clutch. However I haven't burned or worn it out yet. No more clunking though.
    Various squeals (at high speed) and noises.
    Sometimes the car vibrates strangely at idle, but not always. I've just learned to live with it.
    Cheap visor.
    No lock on split seat backs or visor.

    Bad news: The Mazda3 doesn't have a big enough trunk to be my replacement car. I looked at the Mazda5 but I need an enclosed trunk/cargo area. I sat in the drivers seat and HATE the interior design/layout. So next car IS a Subaru Impreza Wagon 2.5i. It has a Mazda like zoom zoom and build quality but after owning 3 Mazdas (including my beloved 92 Protege) I will eventually be Mazda-less. Still going to keep the Protege as a "beater" for when I need to park it in "the hood."
  • gmoneigmonei Member Posts: 7
    I HAVE A 1999 PROTEGE LX w/194,000 MILES ON IT.I'VE MODIFIED THE AIR INTAKE AND THE EXHAUST TO GIVE IT SOME MORE POWER BECAUSE THE 1.6 ENGINE IS SLOW IN STOCK FORM.I AM THE ORIGINAL OWNER SO I'VE BEEN DOING A LOT OF DRIVING.I HAD A PHOTO ALBUM BUT I ERASED IT TO POST NEW PICTURES AND NOW I'M HAVING PROBLEMS DOING THAT.HOWEVER YOU CAN CHECK OUT MY HOMEPAGE PICTURE.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Join us for our weekly Mazda Club chat and meet & greet some of your fellow forums fanatics! ;)

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • speedyptspeedypt Member Posts: 200
    I'm still around too...well...sort of.

    I'm in Phoenix still, and have Trigger still, and I've had problems too...

    Squeak in the tranny when changing gears at low speed under load

    Replaced my air conditioning compressor ($2k, all in all)..but, I'm taking the dealer to court over that repair. DON'T use Biddulph Mazda here in Phoenix. Go to BIG Automall, they won't try to take you for all you're worth, and they have a great service dept.

    Replaced front motor mount (anti-roll mount?)

    3 of 4 tires ruined by a bunch-o-nails on the Loop 101 here in Phoenix. New Kumho Ecsta SPT's (205/50-15) for $325 (total0 for 4 new ones.

    No other real problems in the last 30k miles worth mentioning. I now drive about 2500-3000 miles per month for work, so Trigger JUST turned 90k this week. I'd like to get another 35-40k of reliable miles before I retire her. That's about 1.5 years at my current rate!

    Glad to see Dale, Meade and Pat are still around!

    Regards to all from Phoenix,

    Pete :blush:
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Grand! Let us know when Trigger reaches 200K kilometres (approximately 125K miles).
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Glad to see you and the car are doing well.

    Regards to the family!

    --Dale
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    I see it's no longer called RevItUp. There's a link to it from Mazda's USA site.

    Hey Pete, maybe you'll run into (not literally, I hope) my brother!
  • alternatoralternator Member Posts: 629
    The Trico web site says that 19" and 21" Winter Blades are available, but I have never found them anywhere I have looked.

    However, to my surprise, I discovered that 18" and 20" Trico Winter Blades are almost exactly the same length as the Mazda OEM 19" and 21" summer blades!
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    It's Tuesday so it's time for our weekly Mazda gathering! Avoid the holiday crush at the mall and have a relaxing chat! :P

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
  • brasburybrasbury Member Posts: 1
    does this mean a battery about a year old? When I let up off clutch I hear a click..About 15 minutes or so of playing with the car it will turn over.Any suggestions?
  • paulfarleypaulfarley Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the forum so I apologize in advance if this topic has already been covered...Does anyone know if you can replace just the lens on the factory fog lights? Both of mine are cracked...Is it worth it or should I just put aftermarket ones in?
  • carolinacarcarolinacar Member Posts: 5
    Hi. This is my first post. I'm looking for a protege (manual sedan) for my son to take to college. My question is whether there are any years or models that are better/worse than others from 1999-2003 ?
    I'd also like to know what to be looking out for as far as problems in used proteges.
    Lastly, what is the max mileage that i should consider.
    I've never driven a protege until a couple of days ago.
    Very impressed !!!
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    Three suggestions for you. Hope this helps! :)

    1. INDEPENDENT RESEARCH: At your local library you should be able to find the Consumer Reports Annual Buying Guide. In the guide you'll see listed recommended used cars including a section for the troublespots. In general, the older the car the more likely troublespots occur. CR recommends the Protege due to its reliability (i.e. low number of troublespots).

    2. PRICING: In terms of price, you can use Edmunds to find out the approximate value of a used car. It's also a good idea to search local newspapers online and websites for the model to get an idea at what price others are buying and selling Proteges.

    3. MECHANICAL CHECK: Before purchasing a particular car, remember to get your independent mechanic to check it out.
  • mazdaspeed98mazdaspeed98 Member Posts: 1
    does anybody ever try to put a 1999 protege 1.6L exhaust on a 1998 protege 1.5L
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    '99 was a totally redesigned car. It's doubtfull that anything from a '99 will fit a '98.
  • jake2468jake2468 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, anybody know what is the best tranny fluid is for 1997 Mazda Protege transmission? What kind should be used?
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    Need an opinion on doing preventive maintenance with the 60K timing belt change. Are any of you changing the water pump too? What can I expect to pay for this service? BTW I have about 53K on my 01. Haven't been driving it that much. At this mileage it's the best car I have ever owned. No problems, no squeaks, rattles. Brakes still original, ditto battery.

    Also, any info on real world mileage on the auto trans on this car will be appreciated.
  • bocatripbocatrip Member Posts: 194
    Unless you live up north, the recommended replacement for the timing belt is 90,000 miles. The dealers like to have you do it at 60,000. The price for the timing belt replacement at the Mazda dealer here in Florida is $299. If you are planning on keeping your car for some time, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the water pump as well for a few hundred dollars more. They also check your cam and crankshaft seals for any leakage.
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    No, I live in SC. I thought the owner's manual said 60K. Who recommends 90K? This forum when it was active (before the 3 replaced the Pro) had owners reporting changing theirs at 60-70K.
  • bocatripbocatrip Member Posts: 194
    If you live in a State where the temperatures are warm all year round, 90K is the recommended replacement for the timing belt. If you live in an area that has seasonal changes and cold winters, 60K is recommended. I had an 02 Protege and it was mentioned in the service manual marked with an asterisk for Northern states. Of Course if you are concerned, doing it earlier can't hurt.
  • autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    I thought the owner's manual said 60K.

    According to my 2002 Protege owner's manual the timing belt should be inspected at 60,000 miles or 96,000 kilometres and replaced at 105,000 miles (or 168,000 km). That's for normal driving conditions in the USA proper. If you like you can check, the manual online at http://protege5.ugly. Go to the chapter called General Information and then go to page 29.
  • zoomandyzoomzoomandyzoom Member Posts: 19
    My 48-month lease on my 2003 Mazda Protege is ending on 6/21/07, meaning I have only one (May's) monthly payment left. I plan on buying the car at lease end, and then selling it, since it's worth quite a bit more than the buyout amount stated in my lease contract. I was allowed 48k miles for the term of the lease, the car currently has 34k miles.

    My concern is this: the Mazda dealer where I leased the car is saying that they have to charge me registration fees (expires in June), plus another doc fee, in addition to the payoff amount. Plus, they say that they will be taking an odometer reading AND checking for damage beyond normal wear and tear, just like I were turning in the car and walking away. I don't understand why they're doing this, since I'm going to be buying the car anyway. I have never leased before, so this is all new to me.

    I live in California, if that matters. Has anyone who has ever leased a Mazda been through this before? Is this make-specific, or do other manufacturers and/or dealers do this, too? Please help and advise, if you can! Thanks! :confuse:
  • bocatripbocatrip Member Posts: 194
    They may just be checking for the wear and tear as a formality. There is absolutely no other reason why they are doing this, since as you have said, you are taking the buyout. I can't comment on the doc fee or registration fee. Can I ask what your buyout amount is? Good luck to you. Sounds like a good deal.
  • zoomandyzoomzoomandyzoom Member Posts: 19
    The buyout amount currently stands at $6,613, which is $1,000-1,500 less than trade-in, and about $3,000 less than private party value.
  • smorris1891smorris1891 Member Posts: 1
    I am really frustrated. I have had all the fuel injectors in my Mazda 2000 protege cleaned out. It has a low idling issue that two shops have been unable to solve. I will be sitting in traffic, and it usually idles no higher than 500 RPM. The car will be shaky, and suddenly it will shake some more, causing the idle to drop to almost zero. The last shop I took it into says their computer shows that all systems are working properly, including the EGR valve. We took it for a drive, and of course not once during the entire drive did it do its thing of shaking hard and dropping to zero suddenly. It does this too when I shift out of park to another gear. He said it idles about 1000 RPMs too low for him, but he didn't see anything wrong enough with it to take the throttle bottle apart and clean that. There was no charge, but I walked out of there feeling very frustrated, knowing that there is indeed something wrong with my car, and no one can seem to pinpoint the problem. I have investigated possible problems: IAC system, input/turbine speed sensor, or the tcc circuit. Any thoughts on what this problem may be will be greatly appreciated!!! I even asked them to go ahead and clean the EGR valve, but they wouldn't, stating that the computer says it is working as it should! Help!!! :mad:
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    check for vacuum leaks.
  • jake2468jake2468 Member Posts: 2
    I believe it might be the computer itself. My suggestion is to unplug the connector to the commuter and re-connect a few times there might be some kind of oxidation with the plug.
    Probably the computer is good as they are bullet proof, 99% of the time.
    I had this problem with my 1997 having oscillating RPM and I got lucky by using this method, never did have it stall though, but the RPM sure did get very low.
    Lots of luck!!!
  • md_wardellmd_wardell Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a used Protege and come to find out the CD player does not work when I insert a disc it says TR and spits it back out.unfortunately I did not recieve and owner's manual so I don't know if this is a simple factory error code or what. Any help would be appreciated!
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