Hello guys, first of all it has been about 8 months since my last post ( i think ) I forgot my password and changed e-mail services so I had to get a new name. I was previously known as UNMARKEDCAR. I hope this brings back good memories.
Mazda problem?
Here is the deal. My 2001 mazda protege 2.0 lx is acting up ( i think ). The engine seems to have lost some of its juice. It seems to take the engine longer to go change gears between 40 - 60mph. I checked the oil and the level seems to be a little to high. I am not sure if this has something to do with it. The transmission fluid seems to be ok. This problem is also more noticible during the first 15 minutes of driving.
I called my dealership and spoke to a service rep. He was very nice. He told me to bring it by and that they would look at it. He said that they would first want to check the fluids. Than he said it would be good to leave it overnight so that they can check the engine when it is cold. I have also noticed a lot of engine noise during cold starts (most posts suggest that this is normal).
Some family mebers say that since this is a 4 cyl engine, that it is not uncommmon for it to be slugish in thw winter time. They say that the aluminum ( or whatever it is ) engine needs to warm up before it will shift smoothly or will have any juice.
I really hope that this is not a tranny problem. Do you guys think that the dealership could have damdged the engine when they did my last oil change, by putting in too much oil?
MUD GUARDS:
I bought and installed the front/rear mudgards. It took me 30 minutes to do the front and back....so easy. The dealership told me that I should let them do it. They said that it needs a jack. I did it myself without a jack. everything fit perefectly. If anyone wants to know how, ask me.. I have some good advice.
... who has the same 2000 ES as me bought and installed the front and rear mud guards as well. I like them a lot and want a set, but I'm always finding other things to do with the money. Duh ... they're about $45 a pair, so about $90 for the whole thing. (That's a guesstimate -- give or take $5 a pair. I remember him saying they were in the $40s for each pair.)
Back when I had my '92, I installed the rear mud guards. The new Proteges are similar -- the holes are already there. It's a simple do-it-yourself job if you don't mind sitting on the driveway. (I do that when I wax the lower door panels anyway.)
i'm guessing that the $45 is in US dollars? hmm...that would make them, what...like $276 Canadian?! =Þ
yea, the installation shouldn't be a problem. i took a look back there and saw 3 (?) predrilled holes. mine already came with front ones (don't all 01s?) so i'm just looking to get rear guards...
driving to work in the first snowfall gave me a heartattack after i saw how much snow was sticking to my body, just past the rear wheel well!! hopefully, this will be reduced with mudguards...
If you'll stay in your car when you drive, you won't have trouble with snow sticking to your body!!! (HAR HAR HAR, pass the corn ...)
Hey -- I'm jealous about the 2001s, and a little ticked off. You see, my 1992 Protege LX came STANDARD with little goodies like a lighted ignition switch, lockable folding rear seats, front mud guards, FOUR WHEEL DISKS, low washer fluid warning light, and a clock that was separate from the stereo.
When I bought my 2000 ES, I figured all those "extras" would make a 2000 Protege too expensive, so what the heck. But now I see you guys with your 2001s, where they brought most (if not all) of that stuff back and didn't raise the price that much. Dammit.
Oh well, I guess I'm happier with my 2000. After all, it's much more reliable than those piece-of-junk 2001s. I mean, Vocus is right, isn't he? The 2001 Proteges are one step up from a 1974 Pinto?
The dealership near me charged my $43.00 for the front $43.00 for the rear. The rear set was on back order. It took them a few days to get it in. They had the front ones in stock.
You may be able to get the cheaper online. I forgot the website but I think they where being sold for $30.00 a set ( plus shipping ). I did not mind paying a little more to get it at the dealer.
REAR MUD GUARD PART NUMBER: B25F-V3-460F FRONT MUD GUARD PART NUMBER:B25F-V3-450F
What You Will need:
you could use a regualr phillips screwdriver, but I would not recommend it. This may wear out the screw ( it is not easy to take out a screw in a tight space).
I would buy a socket set. I bought one at target. It is made by DURABUILT (part number 085-05-0656) paid $5.99. This set has everything you need. It also has the bits so that you can remove the screws in a tight space.
FRONT:
You do not need to put the car on a jack (even if the insturctions say so. they just said this so it is easier to look underneath).
1- turn the steering wheel so that you have access to the side you will be working on.
2- On the fender splash shield, Take out the top bolt. I would not recommend using the screwdriver for this. Instaed use the 9/32 socket.
3- Remove the 2 fasteners using the phillips #2 bit. Also remove the plastic part that the fasteners screw into ( be careful as to not damage them).
4- Align the mud guard to fender. Insert the grommet into the hole under the car. You can see this better if you just lay down and look underneath the door.
5- Put the fasteners back in.
6- Put the bolt back in and tighten.
7- Once you are done make sure that there are no excessive gaps.
REAR:
1- lay down and look underneth the rear bumper. you will see a bolt that is attached from the body to the bumper. Remove this bolt using the 9/32 socket. You ca try to do this with the phillips screw driver but you will end up wearing out the screw.
2- Insert the clip nuts that came with the mud guars ( 3 for each side ). Make sure that the flat side of the clip nuts are facing out. Also make sure that they are ligned up.
3- lign up the mudguard with the bumper. Make sure that the holes are ligned up.
4- Insert the bolts that came with the mudguars (3 for each side). I would also use the 9/32 socket instaed of a screwdriver.
5- Once everything is tightened you can screw in the first bolt that you removed. Make sure that the hole on the mudguards and the hole on the bumper are aligned. The plastic tab between the bumper and body of the car should be in correctly.
ensure that there are no considerable gaps.
You are done.
NOTE: The instuctions that come with the mudguards say that you need a monkey wrench and a screwdriver. I did not see one place on the instructions where it asked for a monkey wrench and I did not find a use for it at all (even though I bought one thinking I would need it). The screwdriver is not good (do to tight space) I would get the socket set instaed from target. Makes things a lot easier.
Hope this helps!
WARNING: If you are not sure about what you are doing let a professional handel this job. I do not have any mechanical background but was able to do this myself. You know your skills better than anyone.
The mudguards, according to the mazda.ca website, are 57.64 in our lowly Canadian funds. It's the same price either front or rear. My g/f bought me a cheap pair from Canadian Tire but I am not too sure if I want to install them. They "seemed" to fit when I pushed it into place (just to see if they actually would fit), but I wasn't confident in them. I had to push them into place with some force.
First of all, they brought everything you mentioned back but the front mud guards (who cares), the clock separate from the radio (again, who cares?), and the low washer fluid warning light (something I would like to have). There is actually a low washer fluid light on my dash (I can see the "imprint" of it sometimes), but doesn't work. I asked the dealer, and they told me it's not suppose to here in the US, only Canada. Oh well.
Secondly, am I right about what? Missed that part totally.
meade: as terrible as that joke was...i laughed! ...man, i need sleep... haha
mazdapro: wicked advice! i was hoping i wouldn't have to jack the car! 'preciate it!
pf: thanx for the research. for something like this, i'd probably wanna go with mazda parts rather than cheapo canadian tires...just cuz the fit is better! how much did those ones at can.tire cost? on a related note (sorta) can.tire has rubber car mats on sale! they're THICK, with deep grooves to hold lots of water! not too bad of a price...<$50 for the entire set of 4 (if you're interested!) i think it was like $13 for front and $8 for rear.
... is an EXTREMELY important feature. Why? Because I like to know what time it is and I don't wear (or care to wear) a watch. Therefore I have to set my stereo so it defaults to "clock" mode a few seconds after I touch a button. But then I can't see the station I'm on or the status of my DVD or cassette. I hate that.
The 1992 Protege had a separate, dash-mounted clock in the top center of the center console, nice and high where everybody in the car could read it. Therefore I could check my stereo settings AND see the time with one glance from the road, and WITHOUT taking my hands off the wheel.
Mudguards from CanTire were $12/pair I believe. I've got good mats for the back and one for the passenger side, but I have yet to find one that has grooves to match the driver side (i.e. where the trunk/fuel release are and dead pedal). Are these Canadian Tire ones cut to fit?
The mudguards are so easy to put on that you shouldn't even need directions.
Oil-If you fill the Protege 2.0L with 3.75 quarts of oil as directed in the owner's manual, it WILL read overfull on the dipstick. Even if you put 3.5 quarts in, it will still read overfull. You have to use 3.25 quarts if you want the dipstick to read exactly full. All these capacities take into account the replacement of the oil filter (which by the way does NOT require a special tool to install like the owner's manual states). The dipstick is not accurate. Just like my old "5.0L" mustang. It's funny how a car company cannot make an oil dipstick that actually reads right. It really bothers me because I am a perfectionist about these kinds of things.
Snowtires--Hasn't anyone looked at the dunlop graspics? They are much less expensive than the michelins and they look comparable.
the mat will JUST fit in bewteen the dead pedal (and trunk / fuel latch) and the center console. it kinda squishes up against the mat anchor on the drivers side, but not by much (u COULD just remove the anchor too). i didn't have to do any cutting at all, and just shoved it in! can't go wrong with a price like $13 and it's better-than-average quality! 'duh'
As pri fan said, they're about $57 from Mazda. Easy install (20 mins tops for rear ones - did it myself last month).
mats: got the from wal-mart for about $14/each. they're very thick, look durable (long lasting) and match the ES's black interior perfectly. Also, excellent fit.
on the can.tire webpage, they're called "Multi-Season Rubber Floor Mat" and i confirmed the price to be $12.99. i'd post the link, but i'm not sure if it'll work. take a look at them by going to canadiantire.ca, then the "automotive" tab on top, then "interior accessories" on the left, then "floor mats, front" on the left, then "next" on the bottom right, and they're the ones on the bottom right...*whew* u'll notice that the mat is narrow in the front. this'll fit between the dead pedal and the center console (under the pedals). the rest of the mat will fit on the floor. hope there's still some left! good luck!
I should really clarify my statements on the Dunlops. They did not really come in last...just some of the numbers indicated that they did not do as well in certain areas.
Is that many of them don't have the degree of "bristles" (for lack of a better term) on the bottom to keep them from sliding. Some have none at all, and the first time you put your feet on them, you'll kick them up under the dashboard. But many of those that do don't have them as thick or deep as those on the factory mats, nor are they of the same quality. I bought a "nice" set of Pep Boys floor mats for my Saab back in the '80s, and they had those "bristles" on the underside. To my amazement, the first time I lifted the mats to vacuum, I found several dozen of those bristles had snapped off and I had to vacuum them up. In a year's time all of them had snapped off.
Why are you guys replacing your factory floor mats? Have they worn out so soon? Tell you what I did for rain, mud, snow, etc. ... I went to Wal-Mart and purchased a pack of four clear plastic floor mats -- cost me a total of $5 for the pack -- and laid them over my factory mats. That way the original color is still there and the original mats are protected from the grime. At MAPP II, I noticed Larry (protegextwo) had purchased the same set for his 2000 ES, so I'm all bloated with boastfulness now.
Well with all the snow, slush, and crap that gets picked up in the winter it's usually best to get these mats w/ deep grooves in it. The grooves in the rubber can hold snow/water better than the carpet.
i know what you're saying about the mat teeth. but these mats are a HEAVY rubber, so their weight alone will keep them in place. i tried doing what u did and bought a set of cheapo walmarts for $10Cdn = $6.30US (for the entire set!) to put on top of my factory mats. but i found that they: a) couldn't hold enough water from rain or melting snow, b) they moved around A LOT, c) didn't protect my factory mats at all (they STILL got dirty just cuz the Walmart mats moved around a lot). i think just pulling out the factory mats and putting in durable, heavy duty ones that fit well are the best choice! 'duh'
Get the duraliner people to spray an instant pickup truck bedliner into my Protege. That way I can just open the doors and hose 'er down.
HA HA HA HA HA!!!!
Meade
(You guys are gonna miss me ... I'm leaving in a couple of hours for a business trip. You won't hear from me -- or have to endure any of my corny jokes or one-liners -- again until Monday.)
Three whole days without you? What will we do? Just kidding.
I think I was the first to buy the cheap set of Wal-mart mats for my 1999 DX, way back when I got the car in October, 1999. I have another set for my 2001 ES as well. They work well, as we don't get snow alot here in Maryland. I just need something to keep ground debris and water off my factory mats. I have noticed, however, that my driver's side mat looks a little worn after 20,000 miles on my 2001 ES.
Saw an mp3 here in Fort Collins, Colorado yesterday. Blue one. I don't know, after seeing it, I'm awfully tempted. I suppose it'd be hard to find one by now. Guess I'll have to settle for a plain old, everyday ES or P5. Poor me. Say, does the owner hang out here? If so, I'd like to meet sometime. Don't give a darn about meeting you - I just want to check out your car. ;-)
As for the news about the new 6 model and the future of Mazda in the links provided by Meade - three cheers for Mazda! Hope they're telling the truth about going back to their sporting roots. I'm guessing they are, but I guess I'm jaded from too many unfulfilled promises from the Big 2 1/2. Should be fun to see, and test drive, the upcoming Mazda models.
I have a set of very heavy, black rubber WeatherTech mats that I used in my Passat. I will take out my stock, carpeted Mazda mats and put these in for the winter. I already test fitted them and I just need to trim a notch for around the gas-door release lever.
These never moved an inch in my VW, but I am thinking about popping a grommet in to hook it on the mat post in the Mazda.
We get a LOT of snow and slush up here in Vermont and carpeted mats just don't cut it in winter.
There were a few left, but not that many. Originally I thought that it was 12.99 for the pair, turns out it's only for the one. Oh well, I only needed the one b/c my g/f's dad gave me a set and the only on that didn't fit was the driver's side.
Ok, so to make sure that I have all my ducks in a row: I currently have P195/55/15. To get the correct winter tires going -1 sizing the new size is P185/65/14. The steel wheels to fit on this would be 5.5Jx14".
Is this correct and 100% compatible with the Pro and won't mess up sensors, etc? Thanks again all.
Will the 16" Dunlop SP Sport 5000M tires work in the snow? They rate a 7 out of 10 on tirerack, but I wondered if anyone has any experience with them on the protege.
I'm having a little buyers quandry/remorse. I just ordered a silver, LX, pretty stripped down since all I really was concerned about was the 2.0 engine. I was able to get it at invoice.
Now I'm just realizing that the ES was only $524 more (16", fog lights...). I keep seeing the cool ES gauges.
Should I try and see if the dealer can change my order? I usually drive total junk, but now that I'm going for a new Pro, I don't want to be disappointed down the road over 500 bucks.
Also, I've never seen an Emerald or Seabreaze color, do they look good.
can't bet an ES for a little more "green". Seabreeze is a aquamarine color and Emerald is dark green, almost looks black at night. I have a Mill. Red Pro and love it. I spoke with a friend at Mazda USA and he told me Mill Red and White were the least produced colors for the 2001 Protege. Silver was my second choice, looks really sharp with the shiny alloys. There seem to be alot of Silver and Sand Mica Pros in my area.
I have only seen one other Mill Red Protege, since I purchased my car 2 months ago.
I would go for the ES, you won't be sorry! Why do you need to order a Protege? There are about 50 at my local dealer. Also, Mazda doesn't take "orders" on their cars. The dealer can try to locate one for you at Port with the car with the closest configuration you want.
The 2002 Protege is the same as 2001 except for the standard 2.0, name badge, and 3 spoke steering wheel, which I really like, and larger wheels on the DX.
ES all the way!!! I was thinking LX too when I got mine, again for the 2.0 engine, but for a few hundred more I got the amazing black interior which is just beautiful, the fog lites, power locks and windows (which were not an option on the LX here in Canada). It was really the power windows and that black interior with the chrome door handles and the feel of driving something more expensive (and probably sporty) than it is. Your choice, but I'm sure most would say ES for $500 US.
courtesy of The Toronto Star. In today's paper they had special section about 2002 cars. Not surprisingly, our babies (cars that is) did well. It was compared to Audi and to cars twice its value, even better than some luxury... take a look for yourself.
I recently tried to buy a 2002 es for my wife, and could not find what she wanted in the entire US. Could not get it with side air bag and ABS package in the color she wanted. Dealer ordered the car from Japan. Should be here in about two months. Either he is full of it or telling the truth. If he is lying, he is going to be facing one angry lady.
try going to another dealer and have them find one on their locator. All Mazdas, from Japan, are built to the specs by each region of the USA and Canada. They may be trying to get one from one of the port of entrys. I had a hard time finding my 2001 Mill. Red Pro, had to go to dealer 100 miles away and they found one 200 miles further away.
I just went to the MazdaUSA site...listed as an exterior feature of the 2002 protege (all trim levels) is 'single exhaust outlet w/bright garnish.' I agree, it's a goofy name...sounds like something at the salad bar. But that's the part of my car I crunched.
The dealer said that by ordering a 2002 Pro, we aren't ordering it from Japan, just having the port guys add just what I want and no more. He said that all sun-roofs are added at the port?
I think I'm going to talk to the dealer today and see if he can change my order to an ES.
Another good thing about putting the 2.0 in the LX model is that all the new Pro's in the rental fleets will be a blast to rent - I rented a 2002 LX last weekend and that's what pushed me over the edge, I couldn't stop driving it.
zupster: If I am not mistaken, the sunroofs are installed at the factory, not at the port. Better double check with the dealer and make sure you are not getting an aftermarket roof.
Have anyone got the optional/dealer installed perimeter alarm? I am wondering what it is exactly. Does it include starter disable or does it only include shock sensor and intrusion detection?
Actually, when they told me that they wouldn't be able to remove just the 'garnish' and would, in fact, have to replace the whole exhaust(it's all welded together), I didn't even ask how much. The damage is just cosmetic, so I'm driving around with a slightly crunched garnish and dealing with it.
Warning to everyone else: Watch out for high curbs!
Between crunching the garnish and having the accident you were talking about in last night's chat, it just seems you have had bad luck all around with your Protege. How many miles do you have now on your ES, and how long have you had it? Just wondering. I have a 2001 ES bought 2/23/01 that's real close to 20,000 miles. Bought new with only 2 miles on it. What can I say, I like to ZOOM ZOOM alot.
I commute about 70 miles or so everyday for work. I love to drive also, so that adds some miles too. It's nothing to cover 200 miles in one day on the weekend sometimes.
Comments
Mazda problem?
Here is the deal. My 2001 mazda protege 2.0 lx is acting up ( i think ). The engine seems to have lost some of its juice. It seems to take the engine longer to go change gears between 40 - 60mph. I checked the oil and the level seems to be a little to high. I am not sure if this has something to do with it. The transmission fluid seems to be ok. This problem is also more noticible during the first 15 minutes of driving.
I called my dealership and spoke to a service rep. He was very nice. He told me to bring it by and that they would look at it. He said that they would first want to check the fluids. Than he said it would be good to leave it overnight so that they can check the engine when it is cold. I have also noticed a lot of engine noise during cold starts (most posts suggest that this is normal).
Some family mebers say that since this is a 4 cyl engine, that it is not uncommmon for it to be slugish in thw winter time. They say that the aluminum ( or whatever it is ) engine needs to warm up before it will shift smoothly or will have any juice.
I really hope that this is not a tranny problem. Do you guys think that the dealership could have damdged the engine when they did my last oil change, by putting in too much oil?
MUD GUARDS:
I bought and installed the front/rear mudgards. It took me 30 minutes to do the front and back....so easy. The dealership told me that I should let them do it. They said that it needs a jack. I did it myself without a jack. everything fit perefectly. If anyone wants to know how, ask me.. I have some good advice.
thanx
'duh'
Back when I had my '92, I installed the rear mud guards. The new Proteges are similar -- the holes are already there. It's a simple do-it-yourself job if you don't mind sitting on the driveway. (I do that when I wax the lower door panels anyway.)
Meade
If I go to 15" wheels I have a much better choice in tires without going to 205's (wider) and basically the price is the sames (rims are free).
I'm going in today, although it's 70 degrees out, and doing it.
cp
yea, the installation shouldn't be a problem. i took a look back there and saw 3 (?) predrilled holes. mine already came with front ones (don't all 01s?) so i'm just looking to get rear guards...
driving to work in the first snowfall gave me a heartattack after i saw how much snow was sticking to my body, just past the rear wheel well!! hopefully, this will be reduced with mudguards...
'duh'
Hey -- I'm jealous about the 2001s, and a little ticked off. You see, my 1992 Protege LX came STANDARD with little goodies like a lighted ignition switch, lockable folding rear seats, front mud guards, FOUR WHEEL DISKS, low washer fluid warning light, and a clock that was separate from the stereo.
When I bought my 2000 ES, I figured all those "extras" would make a 2000 Protege too expensive, so what the heck. But now I see you guys with your 2001s, where they brought most (if not all) of that stuff back and didn't raise the price that much. Dammit.
Oh well, I guess I'm happier with my 2000. After all, it's much more reliable than those piece-of-junk 2001s. I mean, Vocus is right, isn't he? The 2001 Proteges are one step up from a 1974 Pinto?
;-)
Meade
You may be able to get the cheaper online. I forgot the website but I think they where being sold for $30.00 a set ( plus shipping ). I did not mind paying a little more to get it at the dealer.
REAR MUD GUARD PART NUMBER: B25F-V3-460F
FRONT MUD GUARD PART NUMBER:B25F-V3-450F
What You Will need:
you could use a regualr phillips screwdriver, but I would not recommend it. This may wear out the screw ( it is not easy to take out a screw in a tight space).
I would buy a socket set. I bought one at target. It is made by DURABUILT (part number 085-05-0656) paid $5.99. This set has everything you need. It also has the bits so that you can remove the screws in a tight space.
FRONT:
You do not need to put the car on a jack (even if the insturctions say so. they just said this so it is easier to look underneath).
1- turn the steering wheel so that you have access to the side you will be working on.
2- On the fender splash shield, Take out the top bolt. I would not recommend using the screwdriver for this. Instaed use the 9/32 socket.
3- Remove the 2 fasteners using the phillips #2 bit. Also remove the plastic part that the fasteners screw into ( be careful as to not damage them).
4- Align the mud guard to fender. Insert the grommet into the hole under the car. You can see this better if you just lay down and look underneath the door.
5- Put the fasteners back in.
6- Put the bolt back in and tighten.
7- Once you are done make sure that there are no excessive gaps.
REAR:
1- lay down and look underneth the rear bumper. you will see a bolt that is attached from the body to the bumper. Remove this bolt using the 9/32 socket. You ca try to do this with the phillips screw driver but you will end up wearing out the screw.
2- Insert the clip nuts that came with the mud guars ( 3 for each side ). Make sure that the flat side of the clip nuts are facing out. Also make sure that they are ligned up.
3- lign up the mudguard with the bumper. Make sure that the holes are ligned up.
4- Insert the bolts that came with the mudguars (3 for each side). I would also use the 9/32 socket instaed of a screwdriver.
5- Once everything is tightened you can screw in the first bolt that you removed. Make sure that the hole on the mudguards and the hole on the bumper are aligned. The plastic tab between the bumper and body of the car should be in correctly.
ensure that there are no considerable gaps.
You are done.
NOTE: The instuctions that come with the mudguards say that you need a monkey wrench and a screwdriver. I did not see one place on the instructions where it asked for a monkey wrench and I did not find a use for it at all (even though I bought one thinking I would need it).
The screwdriver is not good (do to tight space) I would get the socket set instaed from target. Makes things a lot easier.
Hope this helps!
WARNING: If you are not sure about what you are doing let a professional handel this job. I do not have any mechanical background but was able to do this myself. You know your skills better than anyone.
Secondly, am I right about what? Missed that part totally.
mazdapro: wicked advice! i was hoping i wouldn't have to jack the car! 'preciate it!
pf: thanx for the research. for something like this, i'd probably wanna go with mazda parts rather than cheapo canadian tires...just cuz the fit is better! how much did those ones at can.tire cost? on a related note (sorta) can.tire has rubber car mats on sale! they're THICK, with deep grooves to hold lots of water! not too bad of a price...<$50 for the entire set of 4 (if you're interested!) i think it was like $13 for front and $8 for rear.
thanx all!
'duh'
The 1992 Protege had a separate, dash-mounted clock in the top center of the center console, nice and high where everybody in the car could read it. Therefore I could check my stereo settings AND see the time with one glance from the road, and WITHOUT taking my hands off the wheel.
Meade
P.S. Paul, you're dense.
Oil-If you fill the Protege 2.0L with 3.75 quarts of oil as directed in the owner's manual, it WILL read overfull on the dipstick. Even if you put 3.5 quarts in, it will still read overfull. You have to use 3.25 quarts if you want the dipstick to read exactly full. All these capacities take into account the replacement of the oil filter (which by the way does NOT require a special tool to install like the owner's manual states). The dipstick is not accurate. Just like my old "5.0L" mustang. It's funny how a car company cannot make an oil dipstick that actually reads right. It really bothers me because I am a perfectionist about these kinds of things.
Snowtires--Hasn't anyone looked at the dunlop graspics? They are much less expensive than the michelins and they look comparable.
'duh'
Here's the link:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/du_graspic_rd.jsp
As pri fan said, they're about $57 from Mazda. Easy install (20 mins tops for rear ones - did it myself last month).
mats: got the from wal-mart for about $14/each. they're very thick, look durable (long lasting) and match the ES's black interior perfectly. Also, excellent fit.
Dinu
'duh'
Why are you guys replacing your factory floor mats? Have they worn out so soon? Tell you what I did for rain, mud, snow, etc. ... I went to Wal-Mart and purchased a pack of four clear plastic floor mats -- cost me a total of $5 for the pack -- and laid them over my factory mats. That way the original color is still there and the original mats are protected from the grime. At MAPP II, I noticed Larry (protegextwo) had purchased the same set for his 2000 ES, so I'm all bloated with boastfulness now.
(Well, I'm bloated anyway.)
Meade
'duh'
Meade
HA HA HA HA HA!!!!
Meade
(You guys are gonna miss me ... I'm leaving in a couple of hours for a business trip. You won't hear from me -- or have to endure any of my corny jokes or one-liners -- again until Monday.)
I think I was the first to buy the cheap set of Wal-mart mats for my 1999 DX, way back when I got the car in October, 1999. I have another set for my 2001 ES as well. They work well, as we don't get snow alot here in Maryland. I just need something to keep ground debris and water off my factory mats. I have noticed, however, that my driver's side mat looks a little worn after 20,000 miles on my 2001 ES.
As for the news about the new 6 model and the future of Mazda in the links provided by Meade - three cheers for Mazda! Hope they're telling the truth about going back to their sporting roots. I'm guessing they are, but I guess I'm jaded from too many unfulfilled promises from the Big 2 1/2. Should be fun to see, and test drive, the upcoming Mazda models.
These never moved an inch in my VW, but I am thinking about popping a grommet in to hook it on the mat post in the Mazda.
We get a LOT of snow and slush up here in Vermont and carpeted mats just don't cut it in winter.
PF
'duh'
I currently have P195/55/15. To get the correct winter tires going -1 sizing the new size is
P185/65/14. The steel wheels to fit on this would be 5.5Jx14".
Is this correct and 100% compatible with the Pro and won't mess up sensors, etc?
Thanks again all.
PF
Now I'm just realizing that the ES was only $524 more (16", fog lights...). I keep seeing the cool ES gauges.
Should I try and see if the dealer can change my order? I usually drive total junk, but now that I'm going for a new Pro, I don't want to be disappointed down the road over 500 bucks.
Also, I've never seen an Emerald or Seabreaze color, do they look good.
Any advice,
Seabreeze is a aquamarine color and Emerald is dark green, almost looks black at night. I have a Mill. Red Pro and love it. I spoke with a friend at Mazda USA and he told me Mill Red and White were the least produced colors for the 2001 Protege. Silver was my second choice, looks really sharp with the shiny alloys. There seem to be alot of Silver and Sand Mica Pros in my area.
I have only seen one other Mill Red Protege, since I purchased my car 2 months ago.
I would go for the ES, you won't be sorry! Why do you need to order a Protege? There are about 50 at my local dealer. Also, Mazda doesn't take "orders" on their cars. The dealer can try to locate one for you at Port with the car with the closest configuration you want.
The 2002 Protege is the same as 2001 except for the standard 2.0, name badge, and 3 spoke steering wheel, which I really like, and larger wheels on the DX.
Pjd58
Dinu
Here's how to get to it:
http://www.thestar.com
Weekly sections
Wheels
Economy' means well-equipped
Enjoy, Dinu
Good luck!
I just went to the MazdaUSA site...listed as an exterior feature of the 2002 protege (all trim levels) is 'single exhaust outlet w/bright garnish.' I agree, it's a goofy name...sounds like something at the salad bar. But that's the part of my car I crunched.
I think I'm going to talk to the dealer today and see if he can change my order to an ES.
Another good thing about putting the 2.0 in the LX model is that all the new Pro's in the rental fleets will be a blast to rent - I rented a 2002 LX last weekend and that's what pushed me over the edge, I couldn't stop driving it.
perimeter alarm?
I am wondering what it is exactly.
Does it include starter disable or does it only include shock sensor and intrusion detection?
Actually, when they told me that they wouldn't be able to remove just the 'garnish' and would, in fact, have to replace the whole exhaust(it's all welded together), I didn't even ask how much. The damage is just cosmetic, so I'm driving around with a slightly crunched garnish and dealing with it.
Warning to everyone else: Watch out for high curbs!
Took delivery on my 00 ES on 01-13-01 (maybe I shouldn't have bought it on the 13th...could be source of all my bad luck!:)
Odometer was 30 miles...now about 6700.
Use it mainly for commuting to work, about an 11-mile drive one-way. Only one road trip, 500 miles roundtrip.
Currently trying very hard to avoid crunching anybody or anything else!