Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

wijoco · March 2005

A sharp jerk after upshift sounds like an ignition miss. Possibly low fuel pressure, doubtful it's transmission. I might go back and look at the original misfire are again for starters.

wijoco · March 2005

4 cylinder 5 speed manual Rangers are ultra-reliable. People run into trouble with the five speed automatics and crummy autohub 4x4 systems. And the V-6s see their share of problems too.

climbmo · March 2005

Thanks I hadn't thought about injecting grease through the boot.

redhotranger · March 2005

hello.

I was thinking the same thing too about the ignition missing, but the plugs got replace and the wires too. the truck ran fine after that. do you think it could the fuel pump? I'm going to take my truck to a shop next week. I'll let you know what they say.

redhotranger · March 2005

Just wondering, do you hear a noise that sound like it might be coming from your brakes. A sweking noise. I can hear that from my truck and both my front and back brakes are new. I took it back to the shop for them to look at the brakes and get the back ones replace because i thought that it was coming from the back brakes, and they said that the noise came from the fuel tank. it might be my fuel pump. Did you get your brakes replace because you were hearing some kind of noise from the left side of your truck? The noise is still there and i don't know were it is coming from. The jerking problem might be coming from the fuel pressure cause buy a bad fuel pump.

banthonyb · March 2005

I am finally beginning to do some of my own maintenance on my truck. I have a 95 Ranger XLT v6 3.0 liter.

The only major problem that I've had is with the Electrical Brain. I've had several different shops test it out, and they can never find the problem. I've put at least 2 new batteries in in only 5 years. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks.

tjohnson1 · March 2005

I have a 2004 Ranger Edge it has 9125 mile on it and the trans slips and bucks It has been back to the dealer twice now. As a matter of fact its in the shop right now and they tell me theirs nothing
wrong that everthing it operating like it should
2004 Ranger Edge supercab 2wd automatic.
we need help

tjohnson1 · March 2005

87ranger · March 2005

i just re-did the valve lifters. i did it as the manual said to do and i put all new gaskets and seals it in. when i got it all put back together it sems to not start. i am not getting any fuel. what could be the problem???? plz help.

87ranger · March 2005

my truck did that. does it do it hella bad and like it does not want to move. I men BAD jerking? if so it might be the transmition. what year and model?

frieberg44 · March 2005

Well, I now have nearly 50K on the clock (49,933 miles) and if I had it to do over: I'd buy the F-150, or better yet, a Toyota Tundra. We live and learn. Here is my frustration: I basically love this truck (especially the motor, and 5 speed auto) but the assembly quality, and quality control of parts [especially electrical] is downright dismal. I am done with Fords, and most likely will never buy another Yankee make ever again. I will instead go for either Toyota (made in California) or Honda (made in Ontario or Ohio) and still support American labor. I gave the USA UAW worker a chance; they let me down with SHODDY quality control. I don't think they really care about the customer; they just care about the hourly rate. NO EXCUSE for it whatsoever. Peace to all FORD owners. (I am NOT anti-Ford. Some have found the Ranger to be reliable; I have NOT). I simply got burned, and LEARNED. To each is own.
- Frieberg

wijoco · March 2005

Are you saying the battery is draining?

wijoco · March 2005

Is it carbureted or injected?

redhotranger · March 2005

It's a 2000 ranger, 4x4 ext cab, auto trany with a 4.0L engine

dajudge · March 2005

Thanks for the info. I want to make sure that I drill in the correct place. Would it be just in front of the boot? Thanks again.

stacey25 · March 2005

well i did the unthinkable---i traded it in for a 2001 4x4 Z71 extcab V8 chevy silverado just yesterday---the ranger would have had to get a new transmission and my front brakes were definitley gone--thats a good $2500 fix. and that is at only 68,800 miles---NO WAY--i actually traded it before it got worse--i have always always been a ford ranger lover but seriously, i am not going to dump money into it all the time--my first ranger treated me well which wasn't an automatic so those auto trans rangers we need to be careful of. let me know if you solve your problem--maybe you should do what i did!! later

banthonyb · March 2005

The battery is draining. I have had the alternator tested, and it is fine. Could it simply be that the fuses were tested and put back in incorrectly?

banthonyb · March 2005

I was thinking fuses, because I can't get the interior light to work as well.

87ranger · March 2005

it is a 1987 ford ranger. EFI V-6 2.9L

dhamlin · March 2005

truck sometimes will not start after driving for a ways and shutting it off. If I wait a few minutes it will start and run fine. Any thoughts

wijoco · March 2005

OK, with a fully charged battery connected, shut the motor off, close all doors and open the hood. Disconnect the hood light if you have one. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a digital multimeter set to read current/amps between the cable and negative battery terminal. You may have to rig up some alligator clips. Wait 45 minutes for the electronics to go to "sleep." The amount of current draw will tell you what type of device is stuck. If it's mulitple amps, it's a big draw like a shorted alternator. If it's milliamps, it's probably something electronic. I don't know why the mechanics concluded the PCMs were bad, they may been on to something but you need a full wiring diagram for your truck to see whether or not the PCM relays are within the box assembly or located somewhere else. I'm not sure myself on that truck. Sometimes the only way to find the source of parasitic draw is to start unplugging different modules until the draw stops. But the amount of amps geing drawn will give you an educated guess.

wijoco · March 2005

Is the fuel pump running when you turn the key on? If not, check the cutoff switch to make sure it's closed. It's in the cab somewhere, read your ownersmanual for the location

wijoco · March 2005

Buy a $5 spark tester and keep it in the cab. Next time it won't start, connect the tester between a plug and wire and crank the engine. If there's no spark I would suspect the TFI module (ignition module mounted on the distributor). If you have spark, get the fuel pressure tested.

dhamlin · March 2005

I have spark, this truck has 2 fuel pumps, 1 in the tank and 1 on the frame under the drivers seat. I will have to carry the fuel pressure test guage with me and check it the next time it happens.

pizzas · March 2005

My 96 2.3 AUTO is currently experiencing the same problem. Flashing O/D light and check engine light with a jerking @ 50 - 55 MPH. Code downloaded as 'performance solenoid stuck in open/closed position. My favorite tranny shop is about to remove valve body to trouble shoot. - Stay Tuned for fix :sick:

wijoco · April 2005

Just be careful not to spray pressurized fuel all over the hot engine when you test (it's bad, kids).

gjpontillo · April 2005

I have been unable to find a set of headers for a 2004 4.0 liter Ranger, but JBA has headers for the 2003 Ranger. I was wondering if anybody has installed the 2003 set on a 2004 Ranger or if anyone knows where I can purchase a quality set of 2004 headers for this truck. Also, has anyone ever adjusted the front tortion bars to raise the front end of the truck and if there is any detrimental effect from doing this.

peonyman · April 2005

Installed this Ford part in my 2002 Ranger XLT. It combines both daylight headlights (at reduced power) and automatic headlights when it gets dark. When working, you never need to turn on the headlight switch.
After a year or so it stopped working as designed. The light sensor is still working as I can hear a relay click when going from light to dark and vice-a-versa. But nothing happens to the headlights if the switch is off. If the switch is on 'park', the parking lights are on in the day and reduced power headlights go on automatically at night. When the switch is on 'headlights', reduced power lights are on during the day, and full power lights go on at night.
I could leave the switch always on except that the lights would not switch off when ignition is turned off.
Hoping for a solution to restore the function of this useful device. Right now it's useless.

nogenius · April 2005

I have a '94 ford ranger and a few problems. The truck vibrates as soon as you turn the key and the whole time its riding and going up hills it will only reach a whopping speed of 45 mph. Can someone tell me what the problem is and what it needs? :sick: :lemon:

bolivar · April 2005

I'll throw out some answers for this and the next 2 posts also....

I don't think they changed much of anything in the last few years. The 4L are OHC motors. My guess would be that a 2003 would fit a 2004. There hasn't been much change to body, options, or motors.

But why not call this 'JBA' company and ask this question of them. They should know better than anyone.

bolivar · April 2005

With something as unique as what you have, I wouldn't think much of anybody would have any experience messing with it.

Buy a new one. Do an internet search for the company that made it and see if they have manuals and/or parts.

Call the company directly and talk to someone. (Yea, bet it's from China!!!!!)

bolivar · April 2005

Not much info to go on here....

Is it 'missing'?

If so, the first thing I would suggest is new plug and plug wires.

This sounds like a vehicle that hasn't had much maintenance. Come on, tell the truth.

Change the fuel filter. It might be clogged up badly.

If the 'Check Engine' light is on, you need to have the codes pulled and diagnoised...

fordgrl · April 2005

Does anyone know much about mudding???? Dummy me just bet that my 2wd ford ranger could go mudding like a 4wd dodge ram.... I am in opposition ford vs. dodge... I am sick of jokes against ford.... But the just is I need advice about mudding!!! help anyone!!!!!!

stacey25 · April 2005

Do you have mud tires?? What size engine is the Dodge cause believe me I hate Dodge trucks!! And how deep is the mud cause my guess is that you will definitely get stuck!! Is your truck manual or auto? As one Ford lover to another--the dodge will win--sorry!!

I have seen it done!! Just let me know how that works out!!

feaganb · April 2005

Hi everyone, new to this forum :shades:
I've recently taken ownership of a 1990 Ranger. This truck sat for a number of years and I've gotten it back to good working condition. I've even taken it on an 8 hour trip and it went smoothly.
Recently this came up - drive it for 10 minutes or so, enough to get it warm, and all the sudden I can't get any engine power. If I lightly press the pedal the engine still runs but feels like it's bogging down, have to pull over. Let it sit for 10 minutes, it will run for 5, then does it again. Check engine light does Not come on.
Engine starts and idles fine. Runs good until this happens.

I've replace the following - for this problem and general maintenance:
Fuel pump, fuel filter, 1 ignition coil (top), spark plugs and wires, air filter and new muffler.

Any input would be appreciated!

fordgrl · April 2005

his dodge is big has a V6 engine. Mine of course isn't. I have great snow tires on right now. But I have weight in the back to help on the roads. I was gonna take out the weight but someone told me that helped in mudding..... Oh boy I gotta get out of this bet because I don't want his dodge pulling my ford....

Thanks!

prinsesskimmi7 · April 2005

hi, i have been trying to read these articles to find a solution to my problem,

i have a 99 ranger and every time it rains or gets moisture outside i have a belt that squeaks and my passenger door makes my dome light come on. (door ajar) but if it is beautiful outside or snowing i don't have the problem of either one. my dad tried everything on the squeaky belt but it only works for about a day or so. but after the rain go's away the door shuts fine and the belt is quiet. oh yeah my back window also leaks as well. if anyone has any ideas let me know please :mad:

wijoco · April 2005

Based on your description, I would look at fuel pressure first. A gauge will have to be connected to the test valve when the truck stalls. Even with the new fuel pump, a bad regulator can cause problems and even burn up a new pump motor.

wijoco · April 2005

Try spraying WD40 in the hole where the arm extends into the door frame. You may have a stuck door switch. The belt squeal may actually be a tension problem. A mechanic with a tension gauge can check it. You may have a failed belt tensioner, or loose accessory mounting bolts. The belt will probably need replacement, too as they tend to glaze when they slip.

86fordranger · April 2005

hey, im new im just testing to see if this is how you post a text

86fordranger · April 2005

please help!! does any one know the firing order for a 1986 v6 Ford ranger. This truck is killing me!!
Thanks,Landon

bolivar · April 2005

Belt - The 'idler' pulley is usually spring loaded to maintain tension on the belt. Check that it moves freely and is keeping belt under tension. If this looks ok, I would just buy a new belt. While the belt is off, take your toothbrush and carb cleaner and clean all the 'groves' in the pulleys. Gunk in there could cause slippage. Buy a new toothbrush. (You probably need a new one anyway.)

Door Ajar - The switch is inside the door, on the inside of the pull handle. You might be able to get WD40 or Electrical Cleaner on it from the outside, but a real cure would mean taking the door panel off and cleaning the switch or replacing it. Ranger are know for problems with these switches.

Rear Window Leak - The seal around the 'high brake light' is known to leak, which looks like the window is leaking. Easier to fix than a leaking window.

stacey25 · April 2005

Yeah I would get out of that bet too! Just kind of suck it up and pretend in your head that the ford would win but I am sorry to say that the Dodge would probably be pulling you out or something else would be. We'll just say that both would get stuck and then a bigger Ford would have to pull both of the trucks out!!

Snow tires won't really help in the mud. Not real muddin anyway!! But I would keep it safe and not take your truck out just so you don't ruin anything on it!! Ok Have Fun and take care!! Stacey

wijoco · April 2005

No, it's not.

chuckj · April 2005

I have A 2001 Ranger Super Cab. My speed control quit working. When I hit the set switch the light on the dash just flickers. Anyone have any suggestions?

stacey25 · April 2005

Yeah, Get rid of your Ford Ranger!!

And get with a Chevy :shades:
That's what i did after owning 2 Rangers

You learn the hard way
Later

peonyman · April 2005

This module was a FORD part, presumedly what is used for the Canadian market where DRL's are required.
Factory manual just shows a "black box" instead of internal components. I was hoping that something outside the module might have come loose or something.
Ford on the internet is of no help.

esalinas · April 2005

Im new here so just sayin HI to begin with. I took my truck out off roading, its a 2001 ford ranger xlt 2wd 3.0L V6. I got stuck in mud and tried to rock it out. It is an automatic and we were rocking it but the first gear blew out and made kind of a whistling sound when the gas was being given. I know its just first gear because i can put it into 2nd and shift up to D and then it kicks in to OD on its own. I put it into D from a standstill whether from park or at a light and the engine just rev's like in N, but that little whistle sound keeps happening and like I said first gear doesnt work....HELP ME!!!

tfitch · April 2005

Yes I do. I have a 97 Ranger 2wd 3.0, it SUCKS in the snow and you have ZERO chance against any 4wd in mud. A Yugo would kick your [non-permissible content removed] in the mud. Power is transferred FROM the wheels that grip to the wheels that slip in the Ranger. I love the truck but I bought a Winch just to pull myself out everytime I get stuck.

tfitch · April 2005

He he. I had and have the same problems. I gave up on the dome light. it would come on at all weird times for no reason, I couldn't find a pattern so I just pulled the bulbs and learned to live without it.

I am on my 5th serpentine belt and I have 128k on the truck. It sqweaks when its hot, when its cold when it rains and sometimes because it feels like it. It could sqweak all day and then not a sound for a week. I found that when I change it, it will not sqweak for about 5k or it will sqweak in 40 miles for a few days and then stop for like 4000 miles. I have tried EVERYTHING, silicone, cat litter, belt dressing (that stuff is GARBAGE), soap, alcohol, all sorts of other things. I currently suspect that antifreeze is dripping on it, just a little bit because I can smell it very easily, not a lot, just a drop or two now and then. I cannot find a leak anywhere, I could stare at it all day, but I swear this is the cause in my case. The other possibility that I had been thinking of -and have not ruled out is that one of the pulleys is bent and the belt is slightly angled and the edge is wearing, but staring at the belt after I pull it is not showing this.

The good thing is the belt is Very easy to replace. There is a diagram under your hood and you only need a socket wrench to hold back the tensioner with a Strong arm (I climb on the engine) and another person to help remove the old belt while you hold it back. The harder part is getting the new belt on. It takes two people but the whole operation from start to finish can take you less than 10 minutes. A Lot better than throwing away the money at a shop.

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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